Glue Blocks for Woodturners
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- I explain how you make and use a glue block and when it makes sense to do so for woodturning. This wood turning chucking technique has been around for sometime and with good reason.
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Mike -- This is an excellent how-to video for using glue blocks with 4-jaw chucks. I frequently use glue blocks. When I do, I generally use them with a faceplate. Used with a faceplate, I think ordinary construction lumber is more than adequate for making glue blocks. I use a hole-saw mounted in my drill press and can quickly cut out several 1.5" thick glue blocks out of a 2x6. (A 2x4 is slightly too narrow for my smallest face plates.) I then take each glue block, mount them on the lathe using a screw chuck, and flatten the face of the glue block. Then, using the hole from hole-saw to center the glue block on the face plate, I mount the glue block onto face plate using sturdy screws (with the flattened face against the face plate). Then, I prepare the glue block for gluing to my project blank as you demonstrated in your video. It sounds way more complicated than it is in practice.
Using face plates with glue blocks isn't better than using them with chucks. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages. I'm mentioning it only so your viewers know another option.
I am all about options. I only have one metal face plate and rarely use it since I don't do really big pieces. Love my Beall tapped glue blocks for lots of things though.
Thanks Mike. Really clear as ever!
Great to hear!
I've read that Eastman Kodak created CA by accident while attempting to make an adhesive to connect reels of film into a long strip but it turned out to be too brittle for that purpose. I'm not sure if that's the full story, but it was later used during the Vietnam war to temporarily close wounds on the battlefield....the original "new skin" bandage. I can't count the number of times that I've used it on small wounds over the years, they still use it today in place of stitches in ER's for minor wound closure....just don't use accelerator if using it on skin, the chemical reaction produces an uncomfortable amount of heat....
Yep, I have used CA on minor cuts.
I have owned a lathe for over thirty years but rarely used it because of other hobbies now I am an octogenarian and spend more time in my garage I have rekindled my interest in turning.I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your demonstrations. You have a gift for uncomplicated communication and I am learning so much from your clear explanation of the techniques you use.
Thank you for inspiring me and giving me the confidence to try some of your projects
Ken
That is awesome! I hope to still be turning when I am an octagenarian, 8 years from now.
We were taught to use a piece of construction paper between the glue block and the project, the theory being it would make it easier to remove the glue block. It did seem to work.
That is a good solution when you want to separate the block and not using CA which is brittle and easy to break free.
Nice work on describing and demonstrating the how to's of glue blocks. Answered a bunch of my questions about this topic and as a relatively new turner I appreciate this kind of instructional video. Especially tips like drill the hole for centering the piece to be turned. Thanks very much Mike, and Yes, I've subscribed and I'll be back!
Thanks. Good to have y'all in my community.
Thank you Mike for the tutorial very good!!!
Yiannis (Athens Greece)
Thanks for your international support!
Very cool idea using that hole and pin to center the two pieces. Thanks Mike
Glad it was useful, Gary.
Avoiding pine was the part I was trying to find. Thanks!
Great video - demonstrates a very useful turning trick.
I use lots of glue blocks, but in my case, they are mostly threaded to screw onto the spindle of my lathe. I make them in two parts - one part is drilled and tapped to match the spindle thread (all the way through the block so that I know that the hole and threads are full depth). I always reinforce the threads with thin CA, run the tap through again to clean up the threads, and then wipe some paste wax on the threads. Then I glue the second portion onto the threaded portion and face it off as you demonstrated. And yes, I drill a hole (3/32") to help centering the glue block. I have a scrap of coat hanger wire (which is 3/32" in diameter) mounted in a handle and with the end sharpened that I use for centering.
Because I take care in creating the threaded portion, these glue blocks can be reused many times. Cleaning off the face causes the face portion to eventually become fairly thin, so I just glue on another layer.
Yep, I like threaded glue blocks.
Excellent idea 👍
Thanks for these videos! I'm new to turning and dont have the time to join my local Turner association (I will once I'm out of grad school) so your videos give me the next best thing to a one on one instructional session. I have a lot to learn and gain so much from each video you share. Thanks again!
Glad you find them useful. Videos are still second best compared to a hands on session if you can get one.
Its good to see some videos on glue blocks. Everyone is so reliant of jigs now and other pre-made chucking methods. But if your are starting out (that's me), then you don't have all those toys.
Another arrow in the quiver.
I have a 1 1/2 hr video on chucking wood you wood like. IT IS ON the Gwinnett woodworkers channel.
Excellent video Mike! I now feel good to go. I am making a bowl cover with a small spire and don't want to use a big piece if expensive wood. Thank you.
Go for it!
Great vid Mike!
Thanks, Eric.
Hi Mike. Just a quick update on my vacuum chuck. I used the strategically placed piece of tape and that worked perfectly, thank you once again. John from the uk.
Great! Glad that tip helped.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make this
Glad you enjoyed it!
Mike, thanks for sharing great videos for us new woodturners. I use a Oneway Talon chuck on my Laguna 12/16. I've watched your threaded wooden faceplate video and this glue block video, but I'm confused as to when to use a threaded faceplate as a glue block and when to use a tenon fashioned glue block. Thanks again!
A general rule would be Faceplates for larger pieces and threaded glue blocks for small projects and items like a sanding disk that won't get the stress that , say a bowl blank, might get.
Thank you for another most helpful video
Thanks for your support.
Good timing Mike. I've been using glue blocks for many years but, this time of year is when I can probably say I use them most when turning globes and finials from waste wood I just couldn't throw on the firewood pile. Just yesterday, I was turning a bauble from a very soft spalted, unknown timber that refused to adhere to a block. So, since I would be eventually be drilling a 25mm hole through it, I made a 25mm diameter by 25mm deep tenon on a glue block and stuck it to that. Much safer than jam chucking it which was my first thought/solution. Thanks, Mike.
Sounds like an effective approach! Thanks for sharing.
Great information for a newbie!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent advice! To take it a little further, I use glue blocks in conjunction with faceplates. I do a lot of segmented work, and it is not uncommon for me to have 2, 3, or 4 projects in progress at the same time. The faceplate eliminates any of the concentricity problems you can run into when dismounting/mounting work on a chuck.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks for commenting, Gerald. Are you using threaded blocks or do you have lots of faceplates like some turners have chucks?
@@MikePeaceWoodturning I have several Easy Wood Tools aluminum faceplates ... they are nicely machined, precision faceplates that run about $25 to $30 apiece. I have the Beall thread taps, and sometimes use them to make wooden faceplates and adapters for both the spindle and tailstock.
I drill a 1" hole (Forstner bit) through the glue block ... that way I can create a center mark on the bottom of the vessel by dropping the forstner bit into the backside of the faceplate. These are reusable, often for several projects ... I just part the glue block off at the glue joint with the vessel. I mark the screw depth on the outside of the glue block, so when I get close I just flatten and add another glue block.
I use glue blocks fastened to face plates 90% of the time. I alwas hollow out the center and only use about 1/4" lip on the outside of the glue block for the glue up. To part off the bowl I use a multitool, this way I can get a lot of bowls out of one glue block. When I get down close to the screws I just glue on another layer and I good to go.
Thanks for sharing, Dean. I bet you do a lot of segmented work.
Great instructional video Mike and really like the dual camera / two view set up
Thanks for the feedback, Kevin.
Thanks Mike! Learning a lot from your vids!
Thanks for your support. Was the thumbnail missing when you saw this video? It appears as a grey block to me. something is wrong.
Two more bits of tips. Glue blocks can of course be used multiple times. Bonnie Klein's videos introduced me to glue blocks on face plates. I bought several of them to help keep them available. Bonnie also suggests using pencil line circles to help with centering.
When using glue blocks held by chucks & jaws, if you have multiples, use a Sharpie to ID the chuck/jaws. Also mark the block to realign with a specific jaw number to help return it to nearly true. A second or two to help repeat your processes. Tip from Dick Sing.
Good tips, Dean. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Mike.
Good tips as always Mike!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks, Alan.
Good technique and video. For the benefit of everyone: 1) Don’t let yourself get into the habit of turning against the grain. There are times when it’s necessary but only do it at those times. 2) Always use your tailstock with a chuck and bit to drill. Square and centered is critical. Shortcuts with handheld drills will bite you when it comes to accuracy. 3) One half inch outer circumstance contact is all that is needed for glue blocks. Turn the center down a quarter inch and ensure that outer half inch is absolutely flat. It’s critical for success.
Excellent tips. I find held drills work great for items with thru holes that will be turned on center like fan pulls.
I tried to make some glue blocks using side grain oriented pine from a 1x4. You sure warned me about the issue with roughing out the endgrain on the sides of the spinning square block ! I shoved my rough shaping carbide tool too far and it took a chunk out of the wood and stalled the lathe ! Then, I managed to hit the long screws I had used to screw it into my faceplate....that sure was a hard hit with metal on metal at 2000 rpm ! Took a big old chunk of carbide out of the insert, never seen that before even when I hit nails on my helical carbide planer ! Nails just nick carbide inserts in the planer, but the screws on the faceplate took almost half of the 11 mm insert edge off - anyway, turned it 90 degrees and the tool is back in business. At this rate, I might need to order a dozen more square inserts to keep up with my bonehead moves !
Stay safe my friend.
Always learn from your videos!
Thanks, Billy.
Good tips Mike, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching
Really useful video Mike. Thanks for sharing
Good deal. Thanks.
Great demo, thanks.
Another very useful tip, Mike. Thanks for sharing!
Take care,
…..Gord
Thanks, Gord.
Great tips Mike, thank you.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks, Mike.
Well done mate
Great video Mike, thanks for some good ideas.
BTW:
First, this is not a complaint, but rather just some FYI on internet connections and data caps. We live way out in the sticks and our ISP is one of the satellite company's and they have data caps on our service. Basically our 'bonus' time is between 2AM and 8AM and then after 8AM our regular data capped time kicks in, so I always try to watch or download any RUclips videos during the bonus hours so as to save as much of the capped time as possible. We live in the same time zone as you, so when you post a video at around 8AM I always have to decide whether wait until the next days bonus time to watch, or say to heck with the data cap and watch it anyway.
So my point... if your videos were, by chance, posted at 7:30-7:45AM it would work so wonderfully for my set up. But, I have no idea on what your needs are on the timing, so you'll not hear any complaints from me no matter what action you do or do not take. I love your videos and will continue to watch as long as you keep posting.
Thanks for all that you do Mike.
Ummm... don't know why the link is showing up in '7:30', I surely didn't try to do that!
I will see if I can't schedule for 7:30 for future uploads.
Good deal! Thanks Mike.
Good video Mike. Thanks. Happy Thanks Giving to you and yours!
Ron
Thanks, Ron. You too.
Mike Peace Woodturning Thanks Mike!
Ron
Mike, Here’s a tip for separating a CA glue block. Freeze the glue line with canned air ( the kind for cleaning computer keyboards). It will then easily separate with light pressure from a thin putty. Great tip on cutting a chamfer to get the putty knife started. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family and thanks for sharing your videos.
Thanks for the tip. I will have to try and remember that.
Mike, thank you for sharing some great ideas with us. While watching your video, 1 minute into it I realized you were wearing an ACU shirt. I recently retired from active duty service and have a couple of multi-cam shirts left over from my service days. I have been thinking about what kind of wood working shirt to wear or buy for quite some time and feel the multi-cam shirts would fit the job nicely.
I look forward to more of your videos and learning from your advice, wisdom and techniques.
It is my only longsleeve smock.
Answered a few questions,, thanks for sharing
Great! Thanks for the feedback.
Great info! thanks
I like the how and why when you do your explanation. Happy Thanksgiving SAFE TURNING, John.
Thanks, John. Happy Thanksgiving to you as well.
As a relative novice to woodturning, I wondered about what wood to use for glue blocks. Recently, I glued 2 pieces of regular 2 X 4 together and turned them round ~4" long. I used the end grain for my first small project and used the woodturner's tape that you talked about in a previous video. Fortunately, it held VERY well, but I now see that changing the grain orientation would be much better. In addition, it looks like you would get a much better grip on the tenon as well. The soft pine gripping on the end grain tended to loosen. Have you tried using treated wood for glue blocks? It seems to be harder. Thanks for the info.
i would use side grain glue blocks. Certainly better if using a woodworm screw. I would never want to turn treated wood. Toxic dust all over your shop. Pine is fine for small projects but would use a hardwood glue block for larger projects. Kiln dried Poplar is readily available from sawmills around the south useful for glue blocks and some other projects such as practice turning or ornaments.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning TYVM Excellent points! Really enjoying all your videos. I only have a Shopsmith, so I am somewhat limited on larger heavier items, especially bowls, but I enjoy spindle turning enough that it doesn't matter that much. Thanks again. I'm going to try that on your coffee scoops.
That's brilliant I've knackered my parting tool hitting the screws holding to faceplate and get really annoyed at waste of wood. Any advice on removing once finished or just with a parting tool?
Depends on if you are susing doublestick tape, hot glue or CA.
Thanks, Mike, great lesson! What do you think of side-grain douglas fir for glue blocks? Thanks for any advice!
I think that should do fine. I occasionally use pine from a 2x4
Awesome video, Happy Thanksgiving 👍👍
You too!
As always GREAT info. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family sir.
You too, James.
happy thanksgiving mike hope its a great one .
Thanks, and back at you.
Thanks, and back at you.
Thanks, and back at you.
Mike all I have is a 5” faceplate and spur center tailstock center for now could you show something for that type of glue block thanks and happy thanksgiving 🦃🍁🍽 to you and your family god bless
I thought about a more advanced project like a bowl or box without a scroll chuck but figured most turners who could handle the project would already have a chuck. Doing some projects with a faceplate instead of a check is doable but more difficult. Umm. Let me think on it.
Ok - this might be wrong, but why can't you glue your scrap wood directly onto the wood you want to turn, then attach the face plate directly to the rear of the scrap (you will need to make sure both are flattened against some sandpaper first for good contact).
You can use the pre-drilled hole to find centre on both bits during assembly if you are concerned about that. It won't matter if the scrap is completely round, or not for these purposes, its just a sacrificial tenon.
Either knock the scrap tenon off after, or make a jam chuck to reverse turn your piece and turn the scrap tenon off and finish your piece off.
Maybe try it with some scrap wood to test the concept first.
If you are using superglue, you can insert a bit of newspaper between the scrap tenon and the actual wood you wish to turn. The superglue will hold it fine, but when you come to separate, the paper always yields and the two pieces come apart relatively easy.
Or tissue paper; something very thin.
Because I’m new to this and I want to make sure that I’m doing some right and it might just help someone else
Excellent explanation, as usual.
If you were turning something with a larger radius, would you still use a tenon close to the minimum for the chuck? I've heard conflicting views from experienced turners (one says he aims for a tenon about 40% of the diameter for more support on push cuts) - just want your take on it. Thanks!
A larger tenon is less likely to shear off. I would use larger jaws if they bowl was greater then 10" in diameter.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Makes sense. Thank you sir, and happy New Year!
Thanks for the tip. I do have a question though: I am trying to clean up a bowl that I turned high school (many moons ago) that’s about 10” across. How large should a glue block be? Thanks.
To glue the base, the glue block would need to be a bit wider than the base. If you are working on the base you might make a jam chuck to put the top of the bowl in to rework the bottom. You can use another bowl blank slightly larger than the bowl you are working on.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning
Thank you sir for your quick reply. I’m glad to know this.
Great info, thanks. I recently started using a chuck and am relatively new in general to turning. Regarding the titebond glue, do you glue with paper in between to help with the separation when you’re done turning? Is paper necessary?I’ve been using paper because it’s what I learned in wood shop years ago.
I only use a glue paper joint if I am turning a split turning like an inside out turning. Otherwise I will separate the glue joint with a parting tool and not a chisel.
Mike what do you think about Douglas fir for a glue block?
I have not used it but would guess if pine works, so would Douglas fir.
Could you use a hole saw to cut out your glue block blanks or would the pilot hole bit make the center hole too big? Just seems like it would make a lot of them quickly out of a board but I have no current experience doing so, thus the question
Yes is hole saw with the correct size would probably work. Forstner probably faster and cleaner. Let me know how it works for you. If you want to do several, you could drill holes with the drill press and then cut out to round on the BS. You would not be able to center on the lathe dor using the tap so would have to work at keeping it square with the board on a workbench. Let me know how it works for you.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning I was thinking of using the donut shaped waste piece from the hole saw as the glue block blank, it is round with a smaller hole in the middle. Trim it up, flatten, etc... Never tried it just a thought....
Why not start by cutting it round on the band saw? Start close to round.
You can do that but it is not likely to save time as it only takes moments to turn a block this size round. Cutting corners off something this small on a BS carries with it risks. Do what works for you, it does not have to work for me.
Great job Mile. Subscribed thanks. One question, how do I get it off? Does it mean cutting the glue block with a parting tool?
With CA it will normally split off with a chisel as it is quite brittle. Alcohol or heat gun and pry off with a chisel for hot melt glue. Carpenters Glue will need to be parted off.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks Mike. I'm in the UK and a similar age to you and have been stricken by illness and forced to stop work (carpenter). I have a brand new lathe sat in my shop bought as a present from the family a year ago that I've used twice. Hopefully my health will improve enough this year to let me get at it. Thanks for the entertainment and priceless tuition.
I hope an pray for you to feel good enough to turn. Even if in some pain, turning can help take your mind off your current situation and take you to a better place. God bless.
Thanks for sharing!!
Remember rule #1 don't get any blood on the wood😂
Or a woodturners prayer! "Lord, please don't let me get blood on the wood. Amen."
Is tightbond 3 ok for this also?
As long as the wood is dry and you let the glue dry titebond 3 should work fine.
Are you not concerned about the low elasticity and brittle nature of CA glue resisting torsional forces?
I'd vote PVA based glue for this prob being safer?
No. Turners have been safely using CA for years. Both glues have their stregths and weakeness.
Why a tenon... just screw a faceplate. Turners are always making it more complicated.
I am guessing youu have not actually done this before? The advantage of a chuck over a faceplate is primarily speed and convenience. YMMV But certainly a FP will work if you do not have a chuck. I do not know anyone who turns regularly that does not have a chuck.
You are wearing long sleeves, ring, and watch, and worried about a small nick!
Professional driver on a closed course. Don't try this at home. LOL.