Making Woodturning Tools Part 1: Skew Chisel
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- This video -- the first in a series of videos showing the making of various kinds of woodturning tools -- features the making of a skew chisel, one of the simpler wood turning tool to make. The series, hosted by knife maker Walter Sorrells,will include some projects which use very simple tools and equipment as well as projects which require fairly complex equipment.
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The almost iridescent ribbon grain pattern, with a slightly reddish brown color alternating with a pale brown color, leads me to think the handle was sapele. The video was interesting and informative. Good work.
Yeah, I agree. Sapele also has a distinctive aroma when cut, so if it had the fragrance, definitely sapele.
Another name for Sapele is Philipine Mahogany. Its an excellent wood and has a variety of uses. Great video many thanks. Just what I needed.
Cool, thanks
I just want to say thank you. I just completed my file knife today and it was all because of your tutorial. Thanks again.
I really enjoy your videos. You explain fundamental concepts and you don't spend the first 10-20 minutes of the video saying basically nothing. All the way through is good information.
Thanks.
Thank you , its very generous of you to share your knowledge Walter!
I absolutely love your video series Walter. Interestingly, I started making knives about 15 years ago because of woodturning. Making woodturning tools was the gateway drug. You may want to consider rounding the edges of your skew chisel - sharp corners dig into the toolrest when you do spindle turning. It has to be my favorite tool to use for that purpose - you ride the bevel along the radius of the workpiece and then gently adjust the angle by tilting the chisel and allow it to start shaving off some wood. I find it to work so much better than holding the chisel flat on the rest. This ONLY work with spindle turning. It is extremely important to keep good stance, use the tool rest and to experiment with this technique bit by bit because if it catches, it will spit the tool out at you before you can blink.
Awesome! Authoritative, didactic, simple, logical, conversational. You've got style and content!
An incredible video Walter, extremely informative and very well put together, Sincerely appreciate you taking the time to out this together and looking forward to the rest of the series. Kind regards from London ~Peace~
Very nice! I look forward to the next video in this series!!!
You are a marvelous teacher! really enjoyed this video
Excellent tips and great video edit too :)
Thanks for sharing!
When I made my skew I burned the handle on. I chucked the blade in a steel vice with the tang pointed straight up and heated the tang red hot with a torch. Then I jammed the (pre drilled) handle down onto the tang. Very satisfying. And in over 15 years it has never come loose.
My two loves!! In the same video!! Good show Walter!!
Awesome video. This is the kind of detail that I wish TV shows would do. I subscribed because this is very good stuff. Well done Sir!!!
Nice Vid Walter. Love watching your quality videos.
Nice job, very well done. Thanks for sharing
it actually is kind of critical to have the edge of the tool that runs on the tool rest very smooth if not polished so that as you move your tool down the work piece it does not snag or drag causing it to gouge the wood.
Great videos by the way, I am a wood turner and actually found your videos because i am getting into knife making as well.
Great information Walter. Thanks for doing this series. I'm a woodturner and knowing the process of how tools are made is wonderful. I would love to see you tackle a bowl gouge at some point.
Hi Walter - I really liked this vid and am very much looking forward to the next ones on this topic. I actually subscribed to your channel, not for knife making, but for tool making for woodworking! There is very little available on making hand plane irons and was looking at learning from knife makers the process and going from there. Thankyou so much for stepping out and into the "world of wood"!
Super instruction. Thanks.
Walter, thank you for the info. Well done. I'm not set up to heat steel so I guess the step two video will be more to what I can achieve. I've only been turning since this past Spring and I am amazed at what I've accomplished in a short time with my cheap 8x12 Harbor Freight lathe. Best regards.
Nice chisel! I made one like that from a bevel edge chisel (which, in hindsight, I shouldn't have). With my father I made a roughing gauge from a ballbearing once, in the fireplace - yeah, mistery steel, how you once called it, but it was an air hardening steel, so we didn't do any heat treatment on it :) It serverd me well for several years (until I bought another one)
One thing about the handle - making them that shiny, and covering them with laquer, it's actually counterindicated - a rough handle is more practical, and it won't slip from the hand, nor it will cause blisters if you use it a lot. That's why woodworkers usually coat their tools with linseed oil, or don't finish them at all - the sweat and oils from the hands will protect them agains rotting. Granted, it doesn't look nearly as good, but from a usability/safety standpoint, it's better.
great video, as always!
One of the best steels I have found for wood turning tools is the shafts out of shock absorbers and McPherson struts. To work them you have to bury them in charcoal, light it and let it burn out and the metal cool in the ashes over night. That normalizes the steel so you can machine it. Once formed, just do an simple oil quench hardening and you have a pretty fair wood turning tool. Also makes great metal punches and chisels. Otherwise the really old, rusty, big metal files are the best. They were made from better steel than the new ones. Any straight chisel can be made from a file.
I love that... "Osage Orange... actually that one blew up"
Osage Orange, or Bois D'Arc is the hardest, tightest wood native to North America. Its absolutely brutal on tools, and as you might be able to tell, it sometimes blows up for no real discernible reason.
great tutorials. Congratulations!
Great vid!
Sepele is in the Mahogany family, but that does look like mahogany. Good work. Would like to make my own tools. Now I might do.
GREAT EXPLANATIONS THANK YOU
Those Home Depot handles are about the cheapest white ash I've found, and they're just the right size for tool handles. If you like hickory, they also sell replacement wheelbarrow handles.
That sandpaper is awesome. I bought a ton of it because any time something comes out that I love it goes off the market right when I run out of it.
You can also use it wet and it lasts forever. Seriously - for me it lasts longer wet than wet or dry paper.
What's it called? I can't find it online.
This is one example of it. It comes in a variety of grits in sheets or rolls.
www.amazon.com/3M-28220SB-UF4-Sandblaster-Flexible-4-5-Inches/dp/B00PPD1VOQ/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=37PSMN085SW6DXH5Q76F
Thanks!
walter you turned on a light for me thank you .bob
Great looking skew!
Subscribed!
stev
Great video looking forward to the rest and fyi Sapele is a species of Mahogany from Africa
very nice video, Mr. Marting Has already mentioned this, It is very important to round the edges of a skew. If you do not you will bugger up your tool rest and this will really screw up the quality of your turnings, so you spend a lot of time with a file
getting the nicks out of the rest. Then you use the skew again. Then the file again. Of course I never made that mistake.Oh sure.
Sapele has a very strong cedar-ish sort of scent. If you loved the way the wood smelled when you were turning it then it was probably sapele. If it didn't have a cedar sort of smell then it was something else.
I recently made a plane blade for a home-made trim plane. I've watched several videos on heat treating but the end result wasn't good. I confused some things in the process.
First, I didn't know about normalizing and sure enough the blade curled. Imagine a plank of wood that cups. That's what my blade did. I managed to work most of it out on ceramic wet stones but in the end the sharp end is slightly off the work which isn't where it's supposed to be.
My plan is every time I sharpen it I'll spend some more time working it back to where it's supposed to be.
Second, I didn't get it hot enough. All I have is a propane torch and I thought I saw someplace that O1 steel could be heated with one. But it never passed the magnet test. I went ahead and used it anyway but yeah, a file bites into it.
It can always be heat-treated properly at a later date when I get the right equipment to do it. I will hardly ever use this plane. I made it now because I glued a bunch of wood planks together to make a cabinet sharpening station and that means tons of glue to chip off. I didn't want to jack up my chisels and sanding it would have taken a lot of time plus probably melted the glue into the wood which would screw up the finish.
The plane works fine. It held its edge and never chipped so I'm happy with it. Again, it's a very limited use tool so no rush making it right but videos like this one help a lot so I can heat treat the blade properly. Plus I plan to make some other planes and my own blades. If it gets to be more of an expense than I want then I can always buy blades from Veritas or Lee Nielson.
Thanks again.
And how do you stop the steal from burning and a wood turning chisle is a sharp and strong object that when wood is on a lathe will shape it in such a way its curcula and you can make things like chair legs
Sapele is often referred to as African Mahogany. Thanks for a great video.
good job
I know this is more advanced but a triangular tang is what is usually recommended with chisels, gouges, and parting tools. A flat tang isn't bad or wrong just not optimal
I made one of these from a bar of HSS steel without heat treatment. Will this be too brittle maybe at the tang?
So the steel is extruded and cut into rectangular pieces that you buy and shape?
Map gas does work. I use it all the time
Quick tip for ya you give us a lot So I can give you 1 lol rotate the gouge as to sweep with itif you sweep let rotate counter sweep right rotate clockwise. That and grab a bunch of sawdust in your hand and sand with that wile at a slow speed you will burnish the wood and its will be as smooth as 600 gt if not higher
Walter I went to the steel website but couldn't find the right product of steel. Could you please point the part number maybe?
Thanks! Excellent video
I can confirm that the MAPP gas Home Depot work is capable of heat treating. Have done a crude heat treat on two blades with it now.
Just a point of caution about magnets: they generally loose their magnetic property around 100°C, so don't let them too long and too close from the steel.
a ver si entendi el tratamiento de calor no es necesario?, solo se hace para que el filo dure mas?, la herramientas funciona igual sin tratamiento de calor? muy interesante tu video
The striping leads me to say sapele also.
Hard to tell from the video though, sepele and mahogany are regarded as being very similar. Sapele usually has that long striping though.
with the gig to do the centered hole the drilling machine is overkill dont you think?
Hi walter, im a folower of your videos and i was verry surprised to se you tourning wood :) and make your hown tools for that.
The reason of my post. I bought a wood lathe to recently and decided to buil my tools to. So, i used a car suspension piston (about 12mm thick) to make gouges and a 12 inches file to make a skew like yours. I havent made any temper to those tools so far.Shold i make any temper to that file? it keeps cutting well such as gouges. why is so important the temper of the steel? have i made the best choices? best regards from Portugal :)
Nice job. But it would make things easier if you drilled your holes before turning, that way everything is centered.
would a hand forge or oxy work for heat treating?
Great video Walter! My wood dealer told me that Sapele is a more sustainable wood that a lot of guys are using in place of Mahogany. Question, I just built a welding table and the top is made out of what I believe is AR500 (1/4" that came from a salvage yard). I've got some scrap. Would that be acceptable steel to make any cutting tools out of or is it just abrasion resistant Mild Steel?
correction: I actually think it's AR400 since that's what the big steel yard where a lot of local fabricators order from carries.
Walter... Nicely done thanks. What are your feelings about using a plasma cutter for roughing out blades and tools? I'm lazy and want to save time. But if it will cost more in time and work which most short cutting will often do then I will put in the work. But I have never seen yet anyone using a plasma cutter to cut blanks so I was wondering if there was a reason.
Yeah, a lot of people use water jets for production or semi-production blades but honestly, I'm not sure why not plasma cutters. I'll hazard a guess that you may have issues with de-carb? But that's just a WAG on my part. I've actually never used one myself...
Walter Sorrells WAG? wild ass guess? great video. I really enjoy your work, and appreciate you sharing your knowledge. any thoughts on the safety (or not) issues of setting up a small shop in a garage in middle suburbia?
MR.SORRELLS
HOW MUCH WOULD YOU CHARGE FOR A SET OF TURNING TOOLS WITHOUT HANDLES
how u call this grinder,what brand is? sry im french but damn i cant find one like this in quebec(canada)..all i cant find is a 1 inch belt grinder..
u said not good wood turner but..u got a grizzly sir..this lathe is pro!
Sapele is a type of Mahogany
I'm starting to get into this slowly putting together my shop I'm just curious because instead of buying new steel I get mine from the scrap yard automotive boneyard ect. I believe in recycling but I was wanting to know if there is a way to determine the type of steel of certain car parts so I have easier time determining what would be a good steel to use for edge or spine ect.
MrShaun1578 try leaf springs, most of them are made from 5160 silicon spring steel and some from 10 series carbon steel's but as far as I know they're all fairly high carbon steel's, I'm sure if you did some (extensive) research you could find out exactly what steel's are used on specific vehicles... and at least at my wrecking yard there's tons and tons of pickup trucks with leaf spring rear suspension
some lathe tools are also made of HSS, which can stand higher heat without loosing its hardness. Not going to be much of that in a scrapyard, and it probably wont forge very well, if at all. I would look into spark testing and just use whatever you can find.
sapele is a mahogany substitute
i was wondering if i could use a regular cheap wood working chisel for a lathe? thanks
Probably a bad idea, as good wood turning chisels are made from high speed steel (HSS), with the exception of those with replaceable cutters, and are meant to hold up to heat, etc.
Yes you can. They will not have cutting edges that are sharpened with the correct edge or geometry for great turning, but they work in a pinch.
David I wouldn't, they could catch and break. if you needed a cheap set, go to harbor freight and buy a high speed steel tool set, with a coupon it would be around 50 bucks.
how much do you charge for roughing flat scraper?
You said you use a 5 gallon bucket of water to dip the blade in to prevent overheating. I was wondering, is it necessary to have that much? Does more water help dissipate the heat better or something?
+RLP3 Nope, five gallons is just a standard bucket size and it is large enough to fit even large blades into. However you can get away with something smaller, even a tin can for small blades.
+Jared Little Scam site using pirated plans...looking for your personal information!
I just subscribed to your channel my friend great projects I like it awesome stuff subscribe:)
So where do I find the 1095 blanks?
Loren Dutka It's a very common steel that you can find in many places online, but one source used by a lot of knifemakers is Admiral Steel. Also any knifemaking supply place. Many can be found with a quick online search.
First of all, what exactly is wood turning? Secondly, how is it that Walter looks younger every time I see him?
hes a time lord, next video he'll be a different person all together.
Wood turning is when you pick up a branch and you turn it. Walter takes anti-aging potion.
Is it necessary to go to a finer abrasive for finer grained woods?
+RLP3 It's totally a question of how shiny you want it. The point is that harder, oilier and finer grained woods will take on a bit more sheen than other woods.
+RLP3 for a tool handle that will get a lot of use, you should stop at 400 grit, or even 150, and give them a coat of linseed oil. You'll get a better grip, and you won't get blisters. Many woodworkers sand off the paint/laquer from the handles of their tools after they bought them.
Dumitru Ursu very good advice! thanks for passing it along : ) Merry Christmas
Egan Schreurs hiv
RLP3
V
Looks like Sapele to me..
where is a good place to buy exotic woods?v
Try woodcraft or the magic of the internet. You may also be able to cut some trees or branches, or find reclaimed lumber, depending on where you live. You can also order large quantities from lumber companies or sawmills, but dealing with them is only worth it if you are looking for a few thousand dollars worth.
I'm both types a blacksmith and a woodturner
3:55. That’s what she said.
Also at 5:24.
Dudes got a narration voice.
I am a wood turner and I have somthing to say I have found that you should/ could
1. Radius the cutting edge of a skew slightly
2. Break the edges on the corners of the blade that are sort of coplaner
3. Increase the angle of the skew
4. Wipe down the wood before each progressing up in grits.
5. To break the sheen (if you want a more matte finish) use some 0000 steel wool
6. My finishing process usually involves (and if any wood turners with more experience want to correct or inform me go ahead) applying a beeswax and mineral oil butcher block conditioner with a ton of heat ( I fill a paper towel with wood chips and hold it up to the wood) and then let that cool and then apply a wipe on polyurethane finish.
Have fun with your turning Walter
Excellent! Thank you! :) Insta-Subscribe!!
all i can find*
Is there anything that you’re not good at?
No easy job !! I as a woodturner prefer my english Hamlet tools ,they are to me highest quality ,expensive but worth buying..
OK, I've heard this twice so far, and I'm at 13 and a half minutes.
The better the finish, (on the shank of the blade) is not important.
Sorry, but as a woodturner, the smoothness of the tool, WHERE IT RIDES ON THE TOOLREST, is as critical as the sharpness of the cutting surface. Notice how you are sliding the tool along the rest, as you make a pass? Notice that you also are sliding the tool in or out, on that rest as well? Imperfections in the shank of the tool, and imperfections on the face of the rest will copy on to your work. Every little catch on either sliding surface will make a copy on the work. Unless you like to sand A LOT, keeping (or making) these surfaces as smooth as possible will make your work even better.
Another thing, sharp sides on the skew, will tend to cut into the cast iron toolrest, as you use it. Rounded corners are more desirable.
Oh, I'll be ENJOYING the rest of these. I'll probably LEARN a LOT!
THANKS!!
steve
I MA BANANA I MADE A ANIME CALLED DRAGON HEART CHECK IT OUT
dude watch capt eddy to learn how to turn
Nice videos but I can't hear your wannabe Riddik voice for long.