HOW TO RESTORE A STUART NUMBER 4 MODEL STEAM ENGINE - PART #2
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- How To Restore A Stuart Number 4 Model Steam Engine - Part #2 - Modifying the exhaust outlet and cleaning up the unpainted metal parts. The old Varnish proves difficult to remove but in the end by a combination of wire brushing, sanding and not forgetting the cellulose thinners, the varnish disappears . . . . . IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO BECOME A PATRON OF MY RUclips CHANNEL VIA "PATREON", OR IF YOU WISH TO MAKE A SMALL DONATION VIA 'PAYPAL" TO HELP ME FUND THE PRODUCTION OF MANY MORE OF THESE SPECIALIST MODEL STEAM ENGINE TUTORIAL VIDEOS - MAINLY FOR BEGINNERS - PLEASE GO TO:
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I can't believe I never thought of putting the wire brush in the vice. My other hand thanks you.
Mr. Appleton, thank you very much for the time and effort put into these videos. They are full of either good info or good humor. Most of the time both
Thanks for the wirebrush in a vise idea! I have always found it very clunky to use a wire brush by hand. Definitely trying this trick next time.
Me too. I appreciate simply good ideas and this one is in that category! Thanks Keith.
Masking tape would help protect the threads on the exhaust flange during the machining operation. Of course you could have put the chuck jaws on the hex instead. I have seen some copper covers for the chuck jaws that stayed in place on the jaws by clever cutting and bending.
Thanks for the vids
metric tapping is easy, the drill size is the size minus the thread pitch, so m6x1 tapping drill is 5mm, m8x1.25 is a 6.75mm drill (and usually a 6.5 will do as its common size)
It feels like you're talking to me about inches and its fractions, which I think is nice!
I'll continue watching your videos with pleasure.
Indeed I am - I was taught the Imperial/Fractional method at School 'cos I is well old innit }:-)))
Keith Appleton
4 hours ago
"- I was taught the Imperial/Fractional method at School 'cos I is well old innit }:-))) " I was raised using the Imperial system then we switched to Metric, but BA and Model Engineering threads still confuse me not to mention bicycle thread.
You can actually reblacken steel with a warm mixture of salt, vinegar, and hydrogen peroxide. Make sure the steel is very clean and completely degreased, heat it up, maybe with an oven, then spray the hydrogen peroxide mixture on the steel which will cause it to flash rust very fast. Rinse the solution off, then boil the part in distilled water until the red rust converts to black oxide. You can card it off and repeat to darken it, and recard. I think it's how they did firearms for awhile.
Hi Keith, forgive me for another perhaps stupid question. In using paypal I will have to go back and manually donate every month? I didn't see an option where it takes it out automatically every month like Patreon. Am I correct or did I miss something?
Hi Tony, Paypal is manually operated. Patreon debits Patron's pledges on the first of each Month.
The reason why a few people are currently objecting to Patreon and pulling out, is because they started to charge Patrons an extra 35 cents in the Dollar extra on top of their normal Monthly pledge. However they got so much flack from Patrons worldwide, apparently they reversed that very silly decision - so now Patreon's status quo is restored {:-))))
I don't mind either way as long as I know YOU'RE getting the support and not some third party collecting the money, or thinking I'm supporting your channel when I'm not doing so. CHEERS!
Hmm, the blackening process might have been bluing, it's sometimes done to steal, but there is a a product you can get that is similar, it's called Cherry Red I think, it's a surface case hardener, and it leaves a finish that looks a little like blued steel. Cherry Red itself isn't the best thing, but it's great if you just want a hardened coating on something.
This piece of sheet metal as usual is far too rusty to use your suggested method .....
Oh no, I would agree and strongly recommend against doing it with sheet metal like that, you need to heat it to red heat for it to work, and from experience thin sheet metal really don't like that, getting warped and such, but the process is similar for cherry red if you ever want to try it out, I do quite like a blued finish, it can look quite nice on some items.
the sheathing is blued. its a special kind of rust.