SEIZED Gearbox Rebuild on our Cub Cadet Rototiller - Nothing is ever "free"!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- We picked up an older garden rototiller from a house down the road for free, and it actually still ran. Little did we know, the tines did not turn (of course they weren't giving away a WORKING tiller, right?).
In this video, Alex disassembles the tiller's transmission, diagnoses the problem, and gets it working again. This machine is $960 new at our local Home Depot, and at least $400 used. Having this tiller for our small garden will be a very handy tool in the future. Stay tuned until the end, because Alex announces the second and final video topic in the "free" rototiller saga!
Here's the refurbishment cost so far:
Tires: $43
Tire mounting: $34
Air filter/ Spark Plug: $6
Belt: $12
Push/pull cable: $42
Wheel drive chain: FREE (should have been $30)
Cleaning products for the gearbox: $30
TOTAL: $167
About Us: We are Alex and Elaina, a couple in our mid 20s who are currently living on the 3-acre farm in southern Pennsylvania where Alex grew up. We have a garden, backyard chickens, and build or fix anything that we need to. We still work corporate day jobs, but are working to eventually leave the 9-5 lifestyle in favor of a self-built, debt-free, homestead.
Follow our journey here on RUclips and @masondixonacres on Instagram!
… and three, you kept that bad boy outta the land fill. Amazing skill set you deploy. Kewl vid. Thx.
There are thousands of these tillers out there, in a few different variants, I've seen lots of broken ones for sale. I bought one with a bad engine, I put a new engine on it and its working fine. But after seeing this video I think I'm going to take mine apart next winter and clean and regrease it, so it continues to work.
its amazing how people take care of things.
Great job son! You have a very prosperous life ahead of you, if you tackle it like you did this job.
Thank ya, appreciate the kind words!
-Alex
Great video. I'm in the middle of repairing shifter and it was a great help. One thing about drive belt not releasing that I found with mine, is that there should be another guide at bottom of drive pulley from engine. I see there's a hole there for it. That will squeeze belt just enough to keep it from grabbing when idler pulley is not engaged.
You are right. Without that bolt the belt will not slip on the pulley. It's a 5/16" bolt about 2" long that threads into the engine block and there is a lock washer and nut that holds the plate against the block.
Looks like I’ll be setting mine out by the road😊Excellent video though! I like how you showed the gears working.
Winter time project I will be undertaking, as my Cub Cadet Rt 65 H refuses to go into forward till position. This video was very informative, I am now a subscriber and fan of your skill in resurrecting a product that is far superior than today’s more expensive, as well inferior materials. Keep up the good work.
Same transmission as my craftsman, many seem to use this same stamped steel case.
There all the same, built by same company and don’t leave them out in the weather period
Transmission fluid and acetone make a great rusted part penetrant.
Great job!!! Never too far gone!!! For the most part anyways....lol. thanks for sharing
Haha thanks for watching this one from the archives!
I am very impressed with your patience,and confidence. You are gifted. Was very impressed watching you work. Also surprised you didn't put new tines on.
Thanks! In another video I made new tines out of scrap steel
The loose shaft seal is where the dirt got in that killed the grease
Wow! It’s crazy to see something so far gone can still be restored. I wonder if the worn shaft/bearing lets bits of dirt to mix with the grease in the gearbox over time. That repair was seriously impressive.
I think that was definitely the root cause. The worn tines also put the gearbox much closer to the dirt as well, so they definitely will be replaced.
Nice job thank you
Awesome job 👍 I just got done doing the same thing 😃
Thank ya! Oh gosh, you felt the pain 😂
Excellent instructional
Presentation. 👍👍
Persistence pays off
And hard work!
Just love old machines !
Over my DIY HEAD. Tines are shot on that baby. Congrats on great instructional video. Thank you.
Haha thanks! I actually have a video of making new tines out of scrap metal on here to replace those worn ones
The tines are a different style not your typical tine shape. My craftsman has the same kind. Built to break up hard clay based soils.
I bought 9 from a junk dealer and fixed all of them, what I learned was replace both chains and polish shafts plus use silicone instead of a gasket
It’s a learning process on the first but easier after that and I used #2 grease and 140w oil mixed
Had to drill wheels to use puller and long bolts and nuts
Good luck 👍
They make NGLi 0 or 00 grease that is thin enough to flow and not channel, but thick enough to leak out of shaft seals and gaskets.
Good job young man...rock on.
Much appreciated! 🤘
this was awesome to see. great effort and go for it. I have one of these and love it. Used it today and was just looking for content and found you. great job and I hope you are able to keep it going and working for you.
Thanks a lot! It’s been a great tool over the last two years, still going strong!
OK.... i have one of these. Ive torn it down to the point of getting the F R N plate thing off. i dont have shaky dearings. I think I have a seiezed chain, hopefully
great job loved watching and diesel is great for cleaning things
Great job.its helpfull.Thanks
Run that sticky chain awhile - pull it back off, clean and relube
It’s a complete tear down to get the chains out. Best to just get a new chain.
The chains are weak and break easily, I suggest both new chains and silicone case plus #2 marine grease with a little 140 or Lukas hub oil, I drilled a filler hole and plastic plug on top
well done
Thanks!
Good job sir
Thanks!
-Alex
Nice job. I have this tiller to try and then buy if I want to make offer. It doesn’t till forwards so it’s like wrestling a bear all the time on counter rotation. Thanks to your video I think I will lower my offer cause it don’t look like easy fix. Peace.
It’s definitely a project! But not too bad if you’re mechanically inclined and have the time.
It was free, older means quality material, once babied, it'll live longer than you - thats why
I have one very much like this one - has a different name on it - but almost identical otherwise. My neighbor gave/loan it to me - he had no need in it. I figured I would at least do some PM on it - change oil, etc. The gear box had a rubber "button" near the top and certainly looked like the place to add gear oil. Popped it off - could not see any - so I added almost 4 quarts before I could see any. After watching your vid not sure if it was even meant for gear oil - but I can't see how it would hurt it. I've not used it yet but so far I don't see any gear oil leaking out - so as long as none does - or even just a small amount - I would think I'm better keeping gear oil in it.
Oh.. that little plug is meant to put grease into. Oil will still keep things lubricated, but it will probably all leak out soon with some use. You will most likely see it leak first at the bushing for the tiller tine shaft, or at the parting line between the gear box halves since it does not have a liquid-tight gasket. I don't think it will hurt the machine like you said.
Hey I have a similar Cub Cadeet rototiller and I took it to a place that put a new spark plug and carburator. It worked for awhile, but today when I went to speed up the engine it started making a clanging sound and now it will not start at all. While it could still run, I thought it had no oil, so I changed the oil. Still had the problem. Strange thing, the oil inside had a sandy color, even after I put new oil in it, the oil still had a sandy color to it, that was not the color of the oil that I put in it. I put almost a whole container of 10w-30 and you know that is not a sandy colored oil, no motor oil is, so that sandy color oil in itself is odd, but what could that clanging noise be that now leads to my rototiller not starting at all? Also, my forward tines worked, but my rear tines never worked.
If there is room, you could put a shaft collar against the o-ring to seal it up better.
That’s a good idea, next time I get it out I’ll remember that
That’s what I did was a oring and silicone around it and it still turned on shift shaft
Straighten out mating surface make a cereal box cardboard ( or ) gasket , keep tight
I have a tiller very similar to this but I’m thinking mine is newer? It ran like a champ last year. Went to start it this year and the pull cord is “stuck”. What causes that?
could be a number of things - cord didn't wrap right and is jammed, something in the recoil mechanism is jammed, or engine seized
I just scrapped a new set of tines for one of these
ah no! I made some from scrap last year, could've used yours!
-Alex
Put a piece of plastic bag over silicone tube and cap on
Will save it
Man, just soak it - 1st in water to get the dirt out , then in used motor oil to loosen it up - patience
Did putting the cover on the belt fix the issue at the end where there wasn't enough tension on the belt to make it spin freely on the motor?
It did not, actually the cover rubs on a pulley so I just don't use it.. haha what I've found is that it's easy enough to jam it in gear when starting out in neutral, and once it's in gear I can hold it back to keep the gears from turning. When it's actually in dirt or on a hill it will slip as designed until you put pressure on it with the lever. Still seems to be working a year later!
@@MasonDixonAcres ah I have a slightly similar model and during my tests the belt would connect to the gear when the cover was off as the belt had a bow to it, but putting the cover on pushed down on the belt which put less tension on the shaft, its driving me crazy a bit as the belt is slipping off once in a while and it's hard to test with the cover off as it drives.
Oh dang. I haven’t had any issues running it with the cover off at all. Feels more like an old machine that never had any belt guards 😎
@@MasonDixonAcres the belt is too short. One inch too short is like that. I think mine takes a 52” belt. All I could find was 51”, that will fit but not enough slack and stays in contact.
I can see too much engine shaft sise to side play - needs seal and or bearing
I have the same model but my tines work, I just can't the wheels to engage. Any ideas?
Hopefully the gears for the wheels aren't stripped. I doubt that would be the case though, really try playing around with shifting gears with the wheels off the ground (spinning drive pully by hand) to see if at any point the wheels even budge. I go through how the gearbox works in this video, see if you can study that and find out what might be the issue
@@MasonDixonAcres thank you, will be doing this weekend
Chain on these are very weak and it’s common for them to break
That chain could be soaked & salvaged
Haha I tried there was no way!
Take my word and replace both chains with new
diesel would have been better to soak that chain in
I hope you go to school to be an engineer. Maybe we can say made in America..with pride again. Hope somebody sees this and offers you a scholarship. No doubt you will succeed in life. God blest you. THANK Him!
Haha I appreciate it, I’m already done engineering school actually and thankfully did receive some good scholarships!
Does the brake cleaner cause cancer, or is it one of those many things that causes cancer in California?
Only in California though!
Too much tension on the belt tensioner
Not that model I am looking for
Learn to make gaskets