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School Bus Buying Guide: How to Buy a Bus For Your Bus Conversion
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
- In this video, you will learn the top 3 things you need to know when you are looking into 'how to buy a school bus'. Michael, from Navigationnowhere, lays out the best tips to jump-start your bus conversion.
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When you want to start a bus conversion, the first question you have is, “how do you buy a school bus?” For many of us, what we know about school buses is limited to our memory of taking one to school as a kid. Once you decide and understand these three easy steps, buying the school bus will be one of the simplest parts of your conversion.
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This video will give you the groundwork to find the best bus for your school bus conversion, from the types of buses to the condition of used buses. Your school bus buying guide.
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as a 18yr vet schoolbus driver, before they are retired, heres my take, the reason your bus is in fantastic shape, and i trully mean that. i noticed a couple things1},that bus has air ride rear suspension, better ride and cheaper to fix over leaf springs. 2}it's a wheelchair bus, the ones that my company has in fleet do not get as many miles racked up because they are held back for specific runs,i.e. limited charter work, wheelchair runs tend to be shorter , so less mileage piled up, the 03/04 International buses with the D444 motor stand up great, we have some still that will not die, they are aged out of schoolboard use but are to good to scrap 3} the I.C./Bluebird body stand up better imo than others.
you have a real gem that bus with last you years, good luck with your travels
Thanks for those extra tips. Yeah this bus is a gem! Honestly the best bus I have seen. Jax got a good one.
Navigation Nowhere love your channel. how do I find one like this? How much should i expect to pay and what would be a good deal? We are going to be full timers family of 4,but want to stay as small as possible so 30’ wheel chair international bluebird, seems perfect
I'll definitely keep all these things in mind when looking for my bus. Great tips! I appreciate it
Thanks for great knowledge.
@@navigationnowhere Are you converting buses for sales? I am considering converting one myself but I'd rather purchased an already converted one ready to hit the road. Please let me know. Thanks.
Wow, grew up in Texas, and I can tell you the only A/C our School Busses ever had waa the window opening...
Brent Boswell peeling your legs off the vinyl seat....good times
Haha I grew up in Texas as well from Odessa, TX to Jefferson, TX to Padre Island. A/C is required in some areas in Texas, but other than that, it's a matter of budget for schools. Some do, but most don't, and most remove them before selling the bus to put in new buses.
He ment to say was
Same in Georgia when I was growing up
We had ac in ours
Something I would like to add here, if you have the funds to do it there is also a two speed rear differential available, throw a switch on the shifter or on the dashboard and you can switch the differential between a low gear ratio for climbing for a highway ratio for good mileage and faster top speed on the highway. If you are not mechanically inclined any good bus or truck service center could hook you up with one of these
Seems like those things always break, and get stuck in high (drove medium duty commercial trucks that had them). I think I only ever got in one truck that didn't have a broken axle range changer...
That's a great over view when looking for a bus to convert. A lot of good points especially on tires which can cost thousands if they're skinned. I've been working in a school bus fleet for 24 years and can tell you some things to consider when looking for a used bus. Rust is a factor as mentioned in the video. The rear panels and rear door (along the bottom edge) is a place to check on conventional buses including the body frame.
It's not a huge concern.... only when there are rusted through areas.... which will not pass an inspection due to the possibility of exhaust fumes entering the bus. Underside body crossmembers are another area to look at. I have never seen a problem with the frame and that's on all makes. Rear engine pusher buses have more issues with rust than conventionals.
I always look for grease at the steering linkage and driveline. If it's oozing that's a sure sign and a good one... it's been maintained! Service records are a bonus to check out maintenance and repairs. We have log books that we record all services and repairs from day one. So with that in mind I would buy from a school district that ran a PM program. They will most likely provide service records.
After dealing with emissions since 2007 I would suggest you look for a school bus 2006 or older. Anything newer you will need a laptop and software (or a good mechanic that has the full set up) to properly repair the diesel engine. A big block gas engine (gas costs?) is an option but the diesel will deliver a lot more bottom end torque and endurance.
Which diesel engine to choose?
If you found an original International DT 466 non electronic you've discovered gold. They are the best medium diesel engine I have ever experienced. Even if a rebuild was required they can be easily in-framed for much less than today's diesel engine. The cylinders are replaceable and that's why they are called wet sleeves. There's no machining …. the sleeves slide in to the block with new pistons. This is all done in the frame … engine removal not required. Time and money saved.
I would also recommend the Cummins as a very close #2 choice. Keep in mind the mileage and the maintenance history.
Which diesel engine not to choose.
I hate to disrespect online but I want to save you some grief. Don't buy the International inline 6 MaxxForce Dt and MaxxForce 7 V8 diesels. I wouldn't recommend any V8 diesels period. Unfortunately Navistar made the mistake of staying with EGR and not going the same route as Cummins with SCR (addition of diesel exhaust fluid). These are diesel engines that were designed in the late 2000 era but the emission system eventually failed to meet EPA standards in 2012. So if you do find a gem of a school bus that's 2007 or newer and it has a Cummins ISB you hit the jackpot. But still.... do your research.
I just bought a 1996 INTERNATIONAL 3800 AMTRAN 66-PASSENGER SCHOOL BUS with the DT466 Diesel
@@hippieJOSH420 Great choice hold on to that bus!
@@MechanicsHubdotCom thanks. Glad i ended up with a good one :)
Great info. Thanks for sharing. I'm based in NYC. I want a short bus. Does everything you say apply to short buses as well especial choosing diesel over gas. I heard it is hard finding diesel stations. Do I need a special licence to drive a short bus? What are good price ranges for short buses? Most videos I see said they purchase off of Craigslist but no luck for me. The prices I see on regular sites are in the high thousands like 5 -25,000 but youtubers say they got their bus for like 1,500 - 2,000 or less. Thanks for reading. I am really hoping to get a bus this Summer.
Reel life yes everything applies to short buses as well. Depending on how many passengers you're looking to accommodate you could start with a Microbird cutaway by Bluebird which is usually gas powered with hydraulic brakes but can come with a diesel engine. If it's personal use you don't need a special licence only if you're using it for a business and transporting people. (Check with your local Motor Vehicle office) Short wheel base buses seem to be popular and typically are diesel powered. I would contact local school districts and ask if they have any buses coming up for sale. It's law they have to meet high standards so your chances are very good finding a decent bus.
I got my school bus from a private school through a Craigslist ad for $9500. It’s a 2007 10-row seating Thomas with only 30,000 miles. No rust anywhere. BUT! Thomas uses plastic passenger window frames that are literally falling apart. I’m blocking out 10 of the 20 windows with 16-gauge galvanized steel. The remaining 10 windows are being replaced with mobile home windows which are not the best but a good cost/quality compromise
I'm a diesel Mechanic I can fix your bus if you ever in new castle Delaware ... you got international body with a 6.2 liter diesel motor.
Well said Michael! Selflessly sharing thousands of dollars worth of "hard knocks" knowledge, quite admirable Sir! Thank you.
No wonder you are in such demand as an expert public speaker on the subject of skoolies.
Personally, skoolie "PROJECTS" are what "drive me" to search YT for more data. The "BUILDS" are the "nuts and bolts", the "brass tacks", "the tie that binds" and sets apart the skoolie community from the "store bought" RV community (love them too).
Anyone can visit new destinations, but only a few can do it in a skoolie.
Godspeed y'all.
Saw someone the other day at the gas station filling up a bus that was just purchased used, he had NY Transport Plates. It was late 90's, International w Blue Bird body. I think it was DT466, I was jealous, it must have been from a good School, this bus was nice. At the age it must be going to be a Skoolie. Alot of times I see brand new busses being delivered on NY highways since the Blue Bird's come from Canada. I would love to have that delivery job
The reason tires cost a lot, they are expensive! Absolutely profound...
They also expire. Plan on buying new tires.
@@jeffforbess6802 UV and years both.
Large heavy duty truck tires mucho dinero!
School bus tires last about 2-4 years max. Plus the transmission will need help almost always a most busses out there’s being in the 200k mile range. Very few out there have had their transmissions serviced/rebuilt, & it’s not very common to see one above 300k.
He is right, rust is BAD. living in New Mexico, rust generally isn't an issue. I was lucky to find a bus with the highest speed rear axle that could go in it, but the AT545 transmission isn't too good in the mountains. it doesn't lock up in 4th gear, so on long hills it slipped. I removed that transmission and converted to a 5 speed manual. I now get 13 mpg at 55 mph with the Cummins 5.9 turbodiesel.
13 mpg would be super costly!
Good advice for people afraid of mechanical work. For a guy like me, even if the engine won't turn over, as long as it won't fall out of the frame, I can repair, rebuild, purchase and replace every single panel, beam, hose, engine, whatever. It's not as difficult or expensive as most people think it might be. In the end, the bus that's right for you will be the one that you want to put the work in to make it right for you. If you don't plan on living in the parks that have length limits, don't buy your home on wheels based on something you can visit with a cheap rental car. All of those places with length restrictions are far too touristy for me, so personally, they're not worth giving up the extra room for. Also after having been an OTR truck driver, I try to avoid vehicles with air systems. I won't go into my personal reasons because I don't want to scare anyone from the bus life (it's freaking AMAZING), but I will never own a vehicle with an air system. You can get an air seat with its own small air system if you're wanting it for the seat, same thing for the air horns. Never again will I fool with that. I also have a preference for disc brakes all around and don't really like drum brakes. The bus I have now, which doesn't have an air system, has discs all around. When I was a truck driver and on every bus I've owned that has an air system, the back breaks were drums. Again, just a personal preference, and what I'm familiar with. While drum breaks are technically easier to work with, I'm just so familiar with disc systems and unfamiliar with drum systems. The downside of disc breaks is that even though the back brakes don't really stop your forward movement, the help and can dissipate heat a bit easier the discs. Just be smart about it and you'll have no overheating issues. However, if you're the type that's heavy on the brakes (and you will learn to not be after the first few times your "secured" items all go flying when you make your first few stops), you should probably stick with drum brakes on the back. As far as rust and blow by, I am the opposite. I prefer buses with those issues. For one, they're a lot cheaper (my bus I'm in now, a 2000 Freightliner with the CAT 3126b was purchased for $900, which I jumped on because I knew the blowby wasn't mechanical, though I enjoy doing rebuilds). My particular engine has its share of know issues, but I know the engine well. So easy to fix. Since I pretty much always do a rebuild, the state of the engine doesn't matter to me at all. Every bus engine will eventually have blow by. I prefer dealing with it before I hit the road rather than afterwards. This is true for rust. Every bus will eventually start to rust. Nothing you do will completely stop it. However, if you have to deal with the rust from the start, you'll hit the road on a refreshed frame and body. I usually do metal repairs with aluminum (it's never so bad that it's structural), I rivet rather than weld where I can (overheated metals will rust faster), and instead of undercoat spray, I literally spray truck bed liner along the entire bottom of the bus. It does add some weight (taking out the seats more than offsets that), and it actually strengthens it if you use fiberglass mesh in the process. Truckbed liner won't rust and will seal waterproof (clean and prime first). So again, with rust, I prefer to have to deal with it from the start. My only deal breaker with rust is the steps... if those are rusted out, that tends to be an indicator that the bus wasn't at all taken care of when the rust is that bad. Oddly enough, the bottom of the steps should be the last thing that rusts on a bus. I also check the exhaust; 9 times out of 10, I'll replace it even if it's in good shape because most exhaust leaks come from hairline cracks that you can't see (and holes in the floor from removed seats). Even if the bus doesn't have cruise (if built after 2000), it probably does. You just have to install the switch and run the wires to the right port or plug on the computer. Same for most cars (never pay hundreds extra for cruise when you can buy the factor switch for about $30 and it's usually plug and play for the most part, no aftermarket stuff needed). Also, i will say for CAT, make sure the "starter" issue you're having is actually a starter issue. I tend to get buses with CAT engines for cheap that won't start because of what's diagnosed as a starter issue but is (so far 100% of the time) actually just an issue with the key itself. They wear out and, though it'll put you in accessory mode, it won't activate the tumbler to start the bus. It'll seem like something clicked but has the engine locked up when it's actually just a worn out key. You can get a CAT engine bus cheap from someone that doesn't quite know how to diagnose issues if you can look for that on a bus that, otherwise, hasn't been tampered with too much. This is also a common issue for Subaru vehicles, which are commonly diagnosed as far bigger engine issues, just to put that out there. It's a $5.00 fix with a new key you can get cut almost anywhere.
This is rad. I think a separate video that goes into more detail about engine and driveline details would be helpful for a lot of people too - like the differences between an IDI 7.3 Diesel and the Turbo 7.3 Diesel International engines, that could be a big one. Final drive ratios and transmissions as well.
Great video dude
Max Jackson the idi is an international motor, the turbo idi just had a turbo put on it.
The 7.3 idi is also vastly different from the 7.3 power stroke and parts are not compatible between the 2 engines
The 7.3 idi is a boored out 6.9 w bigger head bolts.
You can turbo a 7.3 idi & get 200hp out of an idi stock, or just leave her be.
My truck is the 7.3 idi & has the 7.3 PSD. The idi is a better motor to work on than the PSD. The idi doesn’t have shit under the valve covers, the idi has everything on top.
My Stepfather owned a school bus company in Howard County MD, he was the largest school bus contractor in the county, he had 34 school buses, everything from short to long, handicapped buses, Gas and Diesel engines, so I know a lot about School buses. I've not only ridden on them, but I've also worked on them, and we've converted gas engines over to Diesel engines. You know, I should have done this when my Mother was still married to him, they got divorced in 1997, but then she remarried him in 2002 a year before he passed away from bone cancer. He used to sell buses to churches and other people, because a school bus has to be sold after 10-12 years of age, that's if I'm not mistaken, but I believe that's the time frame.
One of the many things a person needs to know is mechanical aspects of the bus your going to buy. Brakes, motor, electrical etc.. Or get a mechanic.
I liked how your video was straight to the point, you talked quickly and I got the information I needed without a lot of fluff conversation in the middle. Thanks for the tips!
totally! I hate it when the 1st 3 minutes are fluff
When checking the tires learn how to find the production date. On RV's max life of a tire is around 8 years old no matter what the tread looks like. A bus tire is pretty much like an RV tire you definitely don't want a blow out!!
Heaters come in a lot of busses in Texas too. Gets freezing here during late December to March.
Yes. In the Panhandle of Texas, it gets extremely cold and very windy. Need heaters for sure.
If you buy a school bus in Austin, TX, you may not have A/C if it's a long bus.
@@atx-cvpi_99 why would they not? It gets in the 100s in Texas.
I come across this video at 5am while contemplating buying a bus, excellent info!
Something else to check as I found out the hard way on my Dailey driver pickup. Had alot of miles on it when I bought it and front end was bad from bad roads over years. I didn't check this as truck was in good shape and ran well. turned out to be a very cost!y repair.
I like the one right behind you because it has a lift for my wheelchair
The average person would think; "tires have plenty of tread- good to go". BUT the DOT date of manufacture is older than 6 years so they are scrap. Might add that to your next bus buying video too. Good work!
Honestly I HATE repetative videos with same titles...... What bus to buy etc...out of allll those titles ..most bids are the same BUT this video is the BEST video IVE EVER SEEN with this title..... ..broken down 100% detailed for everyone to understand. .....FINALLY PERFECT THANK YOU
So in my own personal bus search I've learned that buses with a wheelchair lift typically have a higher ceiling and air conditioning. So that's what I'm currently going for.
This is so cool! I will say though that it seems expensive. These buses require maintenance. A simple two-way 900 mile journey will cost $1200 in fuel and possibly another $500 in maintenance. This is with the artificially low gas prices in the US. That's compared to $300 for a fairly fuel efficient car for the same journey plus $200-300 in maintenance. (Maintenance costs are in bulk, but if you divide by the miles driven they might look like this.)
Heat and cold form condensation. Heat from gas which has moisture inside like from cookers also forms condensation. This collects on the inside of the steel frame and makes the thing rot. Best solution is to have an extractor for the cooker, and before you even do anything except rip the seats out, hang long sheets of plastic from floor to ceiling the entire length of the bu. Cover the inner ceiling first though and let the edges drop down the outside of the wall plastics. Any moisture will rundown the plastic and if you drill some holes it will drain away. Then for insulation keep away from rock wall. The only insulation to use is sheet panels of solid insulation and tape the joints up. Then inner frame from one wall across ceiling to other wall and dont allow the screws to penetrate the insulation. The inner frame is for everything from ply lining to cupboards etc to be fixed to. Now you have a fully hometically sealed bus. Any leaks water drains inside against the plastic and doesn’t come through to you.
Because of how long that bus is past the rear wheels, when you make a turn, you need to be very careful not to hit someone with the rear end of the bus. It will swing out and hot someone if you don't make very wide turns. That wheel base only help when backing up. Drive safe.
This is a nice video especially for me looking into staying at the national parks. I got a lifetime disability pass that let's me into any federal national park, I've been carrying it around since I was 10.
Hey Mich. Thanks, love this video. I already picked up a bus before seeing your video and I think I got lucky in some respect but still may have a con or two. There are a few topics you didn't cover in this video I think you can add or update. Here they are. Type of suspension(Airbag or Leaf spring), Breaks(Air or hydraulic), Engine position(front ext., front int., rear engine), door position(s) & number of, and manufacturer (Blue Bird, International, GMC, due to availability and accessibility to parts, dealers and repair shops. These are just some topics to add to an already awesome and informative video.
Those are great additions to the video. Maybe, I can do a update video in the future to add to the information. Congrats on your new bus!
Wow -- if there's a "Mr. School Bus" out there, he's the man.
Why didn't I watch you first I just got one think I got screwed and be my 4th bus I had help but I wish ide listen to you found my bus but I need someone smarter with rear engine flat noes busses im running small kids fishing group travel to give away baits to special kids in every state I drive thru. Wish I was younger and watched this and could work on it my self or attest walk better and get up from the ground. Thanks bro. God bless
We’re looking to downsize and/or travel, and starting as total noobs we need videos like this! Thanks for sharing.
Our bus is from the north east where we live and you cant help but get one with some rust. We are lucky enough that we have the equipment and know how to fix it. If we did not then I would recommend just what you said, stay away from rust as much as possible.
For sure, rust is horrible. Good thing you know how to fix it!
Did a bus in the early 70es .Today much easier, with battery tools. Also alot more appliances to choose from.
I really want a high top one because my dads tall and my moms short. I’m young but I will have to wait some years or more to buy my own bus..
I want to get rid of my Travel trailer and build a Bus for camping. RV's constantly have water leaks. Even when they are new from the factory. Roof leaks, rotted wood, etc. They are made like crap. A Bus is Strong and I can build it the way I want and put residential appliances in it. You do awesome work. Thanks for sharing.
In Austin, TX, if you buy a school bus from Austin ISD, most of the older school buses don't have A/C. Only the short wheelbase and wheelchair busses have A/C and the newer long wheelbase busses.
Great job explaining! I’ve worked a many of them until I retired.
Thanks for the comment. Congrats on retiring
Thanks. I miss some of it.
I'd go for the mountain bus. I would limit my travel on highways and take my time on small roads and pass through towns and see more of the country.
Ok, have to say I’ve watched a TON of videos and yours are one of the only ones I don’t have to jack the playback speed way up on. Direct information, annunciation, voice is pleasant but keeps the attention... Thank you for the great information that I can actually listen to. 😅
My experience driving School Buses is that the mid-size bounces more than the 40' long bus. Also, consider that a 40" School bus typically weighs more than 23,000 pounds!
I like the idea of a bus that has a seating capacity of between 20-35 passengers. I want to just park my bus near my work, or in employee parking.
Thanks for helping JAX with his new build!! I know you will make it into an awsome build!!
2 things to keep in mind also? 1.) Whether it's just the vehicle itself or a vehicle with a trailer, if the length from front to back is 35 ft. or over, then the driver is required by law to have a CDL.
...and 2.) I traveled using a bus, then one day it broke down, and the bus needed to visit a mechanic. I was told the part/repair would take a few days and with my ENTIRE living quarters being the bus itself --where exactly was I going to stay/sleep till then? This is why I now use a van with a trailer. Why? --the van & trailer gets better gas mileage(even with a powerful diesel package), it respectfully falls within the guidelines of certain parks, one can stealth camp in parking lots if desired/required, you can leave your trailer in the camp ground while still having a vehicle to get around/know the area/get supplies, and if needing to leave your vehicle at the mechanic's garage you still have a trailer for storage AND sleeping quarters. And if you want to navigate, there may be the option of a bicycle or a moped/scooter/motorcycle.
Justin you are 100% incorrect about the need for a CDL, please don't spread mis-information like that. The need for a CDL is dependent on the amount of passengers you carry or weight, not the length; furthermore if someone does feel like they want to be super safe because they are in a nanny state or worried about weight, a Class B, non-commercial license is available, which is specifically for buses and motor homes with gross weight over 26K lbs, most buses are under the 26K lbs. A Class B non-CDL license just requires one to go down and take a test, no medical evaluation is required, this is what most motor home owners get.
Some states like Texas NC and SC require an air brake endorsement for coaches that have air brakes. Missouri is one that does NOT require a class B CDL to operate a PRIVATE coach. IF you have 16 passengers including the driver or less, There is no need for a CDL. or for hire. Party buses and limo buses DO require a CDL with passenger endorsement. You do NOT need a class A CDL for a PRIVATE coach with a trailer. Some states are requiring some training and tests for such vehicles without that horrid DOT Physical. But I am positive that Texas being now a purple state as well as the Carolinas is requiring an air brake endorsement and test WITHOUT the DOT physical. Hopefully the AARP and the senior voting sector will keep that crap at bay. but you do NOT need a full blown class B to drive any PRIVATE unit in the lower 48 at this time.
One more thing. If length was an issue there would be no 45 foot motorcoaches and Newmar Thor American Eagle Prevost to mention a few, wouldn't make them 45 foot. I wish though that these companies would do moretraining for folks that never have driven a 45 footer but anyway length has nothing to do with RVs and their legality except for that the longest a bus/rv can be is 45 feet long. unless articulated, then 60 feet
Mike jaques great info. I live in Missouri now n will be buying my 1st school bus soon. I’ve been an OTR truck driver 24 1/2 years so yeah I have a class A cdl and of course the DOT med card. I’m very happy to hear none of that will be needed when I go full time in my future Skoolie altho I don’t plan to let the cdl go cuz ya never know what the future holds.
Im i the only one watching this that is not planning on buying a bus
Lol yeh
Adam Everett same here, but it’s interesting to watch
I want to build one
I already had my bus back in 1972. they sure have changed.
My husband bought ours in 2006
Great info! I enjoy watching bus conversion videos. I’m not currently thinking about buying a bus but maybe down the road. :)
Thanks, well if you do eventually buy a bus, hope the video helps you find the right one.
Him: Do you see yourself parking at a campground or out in the country.
Me: Parking in a High School parking lot with a 84 passenger bus cuz its my daily.
Detailed and essential info in looking for a bus. Thank you, Michael
I don't know I'm a school bus driver for many years now and these things break down all the time. Like seriously all the time and that stuff is expensive not to mention the fact that average is 8 mpg . Plus they are hot as hell in the summer and cold in winter. It's aluminum and it retains heat for garbage. Just my opinion....I'd rather save up and get a camper. In the long run there cheaper I think. I'll say this despite what many think. These things are not built for safety. They are built to pass the minimum standards of the law to keep kids alive.
THANK YOU, you are like the only guy on RUclips to do a video on this
Thanks, I was hoping that it would be helpful for someone !
Wow! Great point about the difference in gear ratios. Yet another important criteria in choosing the "right" bus. Thank you very much.
It can be a huge cost and time savings when driving.
Great information Michael. I think you have one of the most put together buses out there. Hope to meet you when i get mine.
Those length restrictions are extremely useful to know thanks
This was extremely helpful. Subscribed!
Thanks for the info!!!!!!!! Much appreciated...
Allison transmissions are one of the best ranked for heavy duty diesel powered vehicles.
I subscribed to you due to that you and several others that have converted their school buses are great in sharing some dos and don'ts in converting a school bus. I may be old due to that I am 58, but there are some buses I grew up around that are really worth saving from the scrap yard and worth converting into an RV. In the 1950s and up to about 1985, school buses sometimes came with what is called a compound transmission which is where 1st is really called the "deep under" gear. If you use it, it makes a lot of racket. I rode a Carpenter Vistaramic school bus that was built in 1962. It was a 36-passenger. The Vistaramics and the Wayne Superamic buses had the wrap-around windshield. I think Ward built some and so did Superior. The plus side to an inward-outward door is when you close it, you get a good vertical seal. The downside to an Inward-outward door is that you get a draft from the bottom step. But keep it up. Your videos rock!
Looking forward to more vids from you. Have a GREAT day!
It's cool coming back watching Michaels vids seeing jaxs buss before it got renovated on.
Right, progress is crazy to watch.
Thanks for the tips! I’m planning to celebrate my friends birthday when he’s 16 by turning a school bus into a battle bus! Well, there’s still years to come because were 12
Thank you for this video! Very helpful!!!
Glad it is still helping years later!
What a great video! Full of "must know" information.
Like many commenters here, we too are doing a conversion. I'm in Australia where school buses are owned by bus companies rather than schools, although some private schools have nice coaches for carting the kids to sports and special events.
Our school buses make for great motorhomes for some. 40 footers with flat floors, economical 6 cylinder diesel motors that are not only easy to fix, but cheap with plentiful parts.
The downsides are that, unlike long distance coaches they don't have air suspension, luggage bins or enough grunt to tow a normal size car or SUV. They go OK at 100km/h (62mph), but start to run out of puff with the slightest incline. At the end of the day it depends on whether you want to travel a lot or stay put and not do much driving around.
We have a 40ft. three axle coach with a huge bulbar (essential if driving in rural parts of Australia), airbag suspension and the floor line is about 8 feet off the ground. Fuel economy is...well it's not spoken about.
Regardless of whether others buy a coach or school bus, your video is a goldmine of essential information.
Best wishes from Australia!
You said: Must check Rust spots. Back of bus, below windows, Gaskets will rupture and water will seep in. Paint Bubbling and other signs. Must check I beams and Wheel wells too. Must check driver side wheel wells primarily and window sills must check to check window sill caulking as symptom of deeper rusting or not. And to get Half life - full life full tread tires is best.
Thank you. More things to consider in my bus purchase
Good luck finding your bus!
Glad to have run across your video. It was rapid, to the point, and not filled with empty, wasted time as many RUclips vids are.
As a Schoolie novice, I learned quite s bit about what to look for in a potential buy, particularly the highway/mountain differences I hadn't heard of previously.
Looking forward to a further education from your posts.
One question that may be obvious to the more "schooled" viewer: Do all buses run on diesel? And if so, why is that? The particulates diesel puts in the air would be more harmful for the students to inhale. Thanks!
I am sharing this video and your channel on how to buy and convert a school bus. I ALWAYS adore your channel. The bus behind you at least in the beginning is an IC bus which is strictly International. IC took over from AmTran and AmTran took over from Ward. When I was your age, AmTran was about ready to take over Ward. My friend may be wanting to buy a 1962 International Ward bus with a 4-speed compound transmission. The bus I see has brooms at the bottom of the door. That is really great for if the bus someone wants to buy has an "inward/outward" door and wants to leave it the way it is.
I’d definitely consider a flat nose over a nose for a better sharper turn radius
I want to buy bus in Dubai but i've got good info from your video .. thanx
Thank you for the info. Thinking of finding a mid sized bus.
I want to buy one and 1 summer go on a road trip cross country picking up the boys along the way. Go from the east coast to the west coast and then back.
This was great information! Thank you
Thanks
The emergency door rust first around the tail lights and over head state lights flashed was a mechanic in the northern city
I think you have your gear ratios backwards. A mountain bus will have a lower gear ratio that causes the higher RPM at highway speed, where as a highway bus will have a higher gear ratio in the rear end allowing lower RPM's on the highway.
Holy auctioneer thanks for the info it's awesome
Yeah, I know cramming a lot into a video. 😂
I have also noticed that Bluebird hardly ever makes a tall bus and International is the opposite.
It can be hard to find a tall bus. But, they are out there. Keep looking and you will find one!!
could've used this video a year ago dangit. i think we might have screw rust. but when we gutted it the inside was completely rust free. but we left the walls. all we can do now is paint and hope it doesnt rust too much more. Good tips for our next conversion.
Sorry, I didn't get the video out sooner. haha. Most of the time you are fine. It is really only rusty rusty buses that are a issue. Minor rust will be fine for years to come.
What's the benefit of a front engine versus rear engine?
After watching all these videos, I am leaning towards renting an RV. Seems like most people make it 6 months max and spend 30 to 40K.
That is pretty true, many “full” builds end up around 30k in materials and for some that doesn’t make sense. But for someone like me living full time years on end. It works out.
Great info on what to look for a bus! A lot of it was things I'd never thought of, so thanks
Great content! A cut above...👍
Thanks!
Another thought, if I may Michael, regarding "where the rubber meets the road".
Tires can have 100% tread life remaining, but due to the age of the tire and exposure to environmental elements, the tire may be experiencing "dry rot".
The next three quotes are attributed to a Google (thank you) search for rubber dry rot:
"In most cases, tires with dry rot are probably not safe to drive on. Around town, you may have a little time before you need to replace the tires. Once the cracks reach the cords of the tires, the heat of long distance driving will cause the rubber to expand and the tires to actually break apart while driving."
"Tire replacement is pretty straightforward to the cost-conscious: when the tread wears down or a hole can't be patched. ... Tires do degrade over time, though, and that process is called dry rot. Oils and chemicals in the rubber compound start to evaporate or break down because of UV exposure."
"Real dry rot is caused by a fungus that attacks organic materials containing cellulose, like wood or cotton. The cracking, flaking and decaying that can happen to old car tires, rubber bands (and other items made with either natural or synthetic rubber) may look like true dry rot, but a fungus is not to blame."
With major appreciation for Michael's selfless contributions here; to be endowed with Michael's experience, time and effort certainly flattens the learning curve for purchasing a bus.
THANK YOU MICHAEL!
If ths bus came from up north..you def. Want to look it over with a fine tooth comb. It cost us 350 to rebuild the wheel wells. Itll cost is another 150 to rebuild the front steps.
We also gotta replace the air tanks. We bought the bus cheap. But...for the price to fix the rust issues.. Could have gone with a slightly more expensive bus.
Everyone read this comment!! Nailed it! Awesome advice, so true. Also, time. If it is a better bus you would have saved the time to repair the rust.
Whatever you do make sure it has a Cummins and check the battery hold down brackets there always loose by the rear axle
What about what to look out for mechanically like which is the best engine, transmission and drive train. Also, which are the danger signs that may be first indicators of potentially expensive future mechanical repairs?
I was hoping to hear if that handicap lift was included. That's one hell of an asset!
When you speak of hearing , a high gear numerically , such as a 6.34 is known as a low gear and a low top speed , such as a city bus or mountain bus as you call it . Another consideration is storage and ability to find a place to hang water and storage tanks . It probably is hard to find storage lockers underneath without going to a highway bus . Lots of choices , such as gas or diesel , front , mid or rear engine .
Can’t wait to get started on my new Shorty!
Man I’m so happy I found this channel!
Thank you! Very useful information. Especially Highway vs Mountain. I'm looking to move towards one of these I'm thinking. Very well laid out & explained.
Thanks for the comment and glad you found it helpful
Impressive presentation. Good luck on the conversion.
Thanks, the conversion is coming along great and it’s been a lot of fun so far !
Hi Michael Great Tips sir thank you for doing it Really informative
This video is awesome! Thank you so much for sharing this information! 😊
Great video!! Thank you for all the great information :)
Hope it helped you find the perfect bus!
Seriously considering it!
Awesome thanks Michael 👍😎🚌
You are the real deal Human🙂
Wow... You really know your stuff! I know nothing about buses and got some great tips from you.
Very informative mate. Cheers!
Good information! Thank you!
Great tips. Thank you!!!
Need two speed rear end. Get best of both worlds, probably rare on school busses though. Great Vid.
I have never seen it before but maybe? That would be cool.
Yes, they are often installed in dump trucks etc. where you don't have lots of gears. Like county trucks.
Next conversion is a dump truck then !!! Haha
Never said they ever built one.
If you have to explain a joke, it was too much for the audience.
You are awesome. Perfect video informative and to the point. No none else does this! bravo