@HeyImRod can you make a comparison between canyon grizl and canyon endurance bikes? I really wanna see what difference between them except for tires. I have endurance bike, and I'm debating about getting a gravel or a cyclocross bike.
@konstantinlevin9135 on the Canyon website, you can compare them side by side and get a good idea of the differences. Of course not someones opinion on them, just facts. Essentially though the most common thing they have is a more relaxed geometry, other than that, the road bike and the gravel bike are pretty different with regards to the components, tyre clearance and the tires which are optimized for different purposes.
I just got a Grizl 8 Al 1 by.Super bike!!! Love it so much.The color(same as yours),the welding is just amazing,GRX group is perfect(well,here I will change a bit to 10-51 casette instead of 10-45 as it came with).I got the size S(I’m 175 cm tall and 80 cm inseam) and the bike fits perfect!!!The only thing which I’m scared is that I got a redshift suspension stem which came in 80mm lenght and Canyon have 70mm stem lenght…hope this will not affect so much the geometry… Anyway! Great review of the bike and thank you for this🙏Safe rides!
Earl Grey is such a nice color. They welding looks really smooth on the AL version. Glad to hear the bike fits you perfectly :) You seem to be on the upper range of the S, so perhaps adding 10mm in stem length is not a big issue. Have you tried it already? Thanks a ton for watching, enjoy your Grizl!!
Have the same bike. I use it as a commuter, winterbike and gravel bike. Really happy with it. Only "problem" are the wheel. They feel really heavey/sluggish when riding on road.
I have the exact same bike and the exact same problem with the creaking seatpost. I solved it in the meantime: apply a strip of electrical tape between the two parts, use a thick carbon paste and last but not least (over)tighten the bolt that keeps both parts together. I went just a little over the prescribed amount of torque but that did the trick and that horrible ticking and creaking is now gone. Hope this helps for you too!
I order one in the middle of august. The shipping term is now at the end of october, so not so great. First it was at the end of september, but they changed it. I am 182 cm and I ordered size M, so I think is needs to be ok for me.
I was in similar position 2 years ago. Sometimes they speed things up (perhaps because they get additional supply parts for the bikes?). I think M is good for you, but of course a bike fitter would give you the definite answer :)
Amazing video! I have checked the frame size the stack/reach ration is very aggressive, it could be a problem. I am 181cm with 85 inside length, M is recommanded, but I do want L for more stack, but after calculation I think if I buy L, there is litte range for adjustment, so I think as mentioned in the video, shorter stem with rising handlebar is a good choice, but overall it is an aggressive bike frame, if someone want very comfortable experience, other bikes like diverge may be a good choice.
Totally, the Grizl has a very aggressive geometry for a gravel bike. I wouldn't get L if I were you. Yes you will get more stack but also more reach. Flipping the stem on the M is an option (but I didn't like the looks of it when I flipped the stem). Rose's Backroad can also be a good alternative.
Hey man. Did you get the L or the M? I'm exactly your size and inside length and I was wondering about that myself. Had a Grail 7 in M until recently and I was really at the maximum for its dimensions. I flipped the stem but still, a L would have been better. However the Grizls are apparently sizing bigger than the old grails and the M seems right for us.
@@greham I am 182 cms with 83 cm leg. I ordered M and I am waiting now for the shippment. I should get it at the end of october. Then I can tell you, if it is a proper size, but I think, that for both of us, L will be too big. I have till now 3 other Canyon bikes - all mtb - 2 Grand Canyons and Neuron. Grand Canyons in M and L and Neuron in L. Grand Canyon in M was to small, in L ok. Neuron in L was a little bit to big I think - so, with the frame size it is never easy. :)
I think all the bike have the similar problems because of sand that get stack around the tube especially if you put a lot of grease so it gets sticky plus grease by self have some kind of sand in. Try to dry and use electrical tape where clamp is coming and everything goes away. It depends what kind of system you have but this use yo work for me. Cheers
Hi HeylmRod, Great video! Maybe you can help me with a question - I was thinking of purchasing either a Grizl 6 AL or Grail (Gen1 carbon, double handle bars) and not sure what is a better option. I tend to do a lot of light to medium gravel riding. Any suggestions?
Hey! In my opinion, both bikes are great. What components would come with the Grail? I think the "lowest tier" on the Grail 1st gen is GRX-600 or the etap version, so in theory they are "better" than the Grizl 6. Given that you do light to medium gravel riding, I'd go for the Grail (if you are ok with the double decker handle bars -- they are not for everyone, but if you like them , then why not?). The advantage the of Grizl is that it is more a "normal bike" and you can make minor adjustments (stem length, flipping the stem, chagning the cockpit, etc.) to have the perfect fit. However, the weight difference is around 1kg (so kind of significant?). Also, carbon is just better IMHO :) Are you planning on doing bike packing? Where do you fall in the size chart provided by canyon? Do you fall between sizes? These are questions I'd ask myself if I were you (you probably did already). I'd go for the Grail :)
As of now there is still issue with stock, I had to check every day for 3 weeks to get my hands on it cuz they sell out in less than 2 hours when they update it on website
alas I dont have that bike but it looks super nice. I got a 2X roadbike and a 3X MTB. And well I reallly really think 1X is the future so I've been searching for my dream bike,which would be one that combines the nimbleness of a road bike with the huge gear range of a NTB. Out of sheer chance I recently found the Canyon Roalite 6 (and 7) and I got totally enamoured with it, I wanted to cry 'cos I dont see bikes like that often. The Roadlite 6 is 1X, it has a 46T chainring and a 12 gears 10-51T cassette. So it's basically faster than my current road bike (which is 48-34T chainring and 11-34T cassette, and 46/10 is faster than 48/11) and climbs better than my current road bike (34/34 easiest gear of my road bike and 46/51 the easiest gear of the Roadlite 6 or 7) in the very hilly place where I live. I expect to get a new bike in early January, and also found the Canyon Pathlite 6 or 7, which is drivetrain wise very similar to the Roadlite, but the chainring has 36T. So it's even better for my area where there are lots of hills and the weather is very rainy. After much consideration and while I love the Roadlite the most, I asked Canyon's staff and given the area where I live they recommended me the Pathlite, with which I agree tough asthetics wise the Roadlite looks super gorgeous and unique to me (I wnated a bike with flat bars, specially with flat bar ends it's easier for me to handle than drop bar bikes, and you can place the hands in different positions 'cos of the bar ends to avoid fatigue). Btw how do you know that the seatpost is creaking and not somewhere else? Does it happen when you sit or you are riding? Just curious..., as I dont know how to discern where a creaking sound comes from
Hey! I think 1x has become very popular for gravel bikes. If you look at Canyon's Grail or Grizl on their website, most of them are 1x. One year ago, when I was looking to buy a gravel bike, almost all of them were 2x. I think there's definitely a trend towards 1x. Happy to hear the new bike day is coming for you! The Roadlite is a nice bike -- I see many of them in the city. Also the Pathlite. I don't have the Pathlite, but I have a Scott Sub Cross 10 (got it as a gift). I believe it is Scott's competitor to the Pathlite, given that both are touring bikes and geometrywise are fairly similar. Just mentioning this because the Sub Cross 10 is super comfortable for long rides and it is not as slow as one may think. So I think the Pathlite will be fairly similar to it. I do see the appeal for flat bars -- it took me a fair bit of time to get adjusted to the drop bars. If I were you I'd get the Pathlite too, as the tire width may come in handy for rainy conditions. Plus the gearing that comes with the Pathlite may suit your area better. Seatpost -- It happens when I am sitting. If I am out of the saddle and pedaling, I hear nothing. Adding carbon paste to the seatpost helped for a bit (for a few minutes there was no creaking) but the noise is still there albeit less louder and frequent. I haven't taken the bike to my bike mechanic just yet, as I haven't gone cycling in over a month because of rainy and cold Switzerland.
@@HeyImRod many thanks for the detailed reply. I've experienced a creaking sound on my road bike but it was due to the regular disc brake rotor of the back wheel 'cos the cable's tension was too high so the brake lever was always pressed. My MTB has also disc brakes, but they are hydraulic disc brakes and that makes a super HUGE difference in how they feel, the braking is much better and safer. I've been taking a look at the Scott bike you mentioned, yup it looks very similar to the Canyon Pathtile. It looks like a nice mix of a road bike and a hardtail mtb, quite lean looking. The main difference I found is the drivetrain, which is 3X. Nothing against 2X and 3X, but I am used to that and after many chain cross issues, or having the chain dropped and so on and so forth, I want my next bike to be 1X. The Jumbo Visma team, which won the Tour de France used a 1X bike on several stages. The main issue with 2X and 3X imho is that 2 or 3 chainrings need the front mech, which is another mechanical element to worry about. Without it and the fact that it weighs less and can be more aero (don't care about this but that's what they say), etc, I think 1X is looking better by the day. The best advantage of 2X and 3X is imo emergency gear shifting. So you are riding downhill and then comes a very tough uphill, you just switch to the smaller chainring and switch gears if needed. In regards to the Pathlite, as you say, it might be the better option for me. The Roadlite is fine and it is quite the looker, but what you lose in speed (46/10 fastest gear on the Roadlite vs 36/10 of the Pathlite) you win in versatility with the Pathlite. The tyres are also a factor. The Roadlite can admit up to 38mm afaik, which is not bad at all, but without suspension, at 10Kg, on a very uneven surface your body is going to suffer. I always use the Sram tyres pressure calculator to set up my bike and it works like a charm for me, so with a 38mm tyre the recommended tyre pressure is going to give you a certain suppleness in rough uneven terrain. But even so, a rigid alloy frame like that on certain places is going to give you a rough time even on supple tyres. Additionally, I think 35mm to 40mm (maybe up to 45mm) is the perfect spot for both speed and safety (wet surfaces, descents) plus comfort. The Pathlite admits relatively wide tyres and that's a huge plus. Also, 36/10 as the hardest gear is plenty fast. It's the equivalent of the 40/11 of my current MTB, and while I don't use my MTB for speed for obvious reasons, yesterday I was riding at 57Km/h on a descent using my MTB which is my record for now. So yeah the Roadlite is plenty fast. Additionally, the Pathlite has okay stock tyres, but after they wear out, it gives you the flexibility to choose from the best road bikes like say a 32mm GP5000 or my favourite, the 32mm Continental Ultra Speed III (cheap and fast with low rolling resistance). Dunno if there are 35mm or 40mm (my favourite widths for road) GP5000 or Ultra Speed III tyres but anyways. My idea is to get a durable "gravel" tyre with good rolling resistance, so I always check www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ to stay informed about the best choices, specially taking into account that most gravel tyres are just expensive :/ , unlike road tyres where some have great rolling resistence and cost 15€, so given the fact that the prize is very similar I'd rather prefer to have the best of them both in rolling resistance and durability (a difficult combination, very few accomplish that, if any)
@@HeyImRod as you mentioned in the video instead of going with the XL going with the L is the right choice. In fact, if you are between two sizes (if I understood you correctly the recommendation was on the low spectre of XL), it's always better to choose the smaller size, and ALL companies recommend this. Decathlon always mention that for instance, if you visit their online store and you are undecided about what to get
@@xosece you are totally correct. I am very happy with L right now. I couldn't imagine riding the Grizl in XL now. Also, as many have already said online: it's easier to make a small bike larger than making a large bike smaller.
DON'T order two bikes just to try them out. Try to reduce returns. Shipping/Freight is a massive contributor to CO2 emissions, and the producers many times do all they can to make shipping and returs as cheap and available as possible for the consumer, which means, you put a lot of pressure on them and necessary work. Don't act stupid just because you can.
A brilliant and straight-to-the point review. I am in the verge of replacing my 2by gravel bike with a 1by. Canyon is high in my priority list.
Hey, thanks a lot for the feedback! I hope my video helped you narrow your options :)
Thanks for sharing your experience, it essentially mirrors my own thought process looking for that one bike that does it all 😊
@@JustBrowsing777 thanks, I am glad you found it useful :)
@HeyImRod can you make a comparison between canyon grizl and canyon endurance bikes? I really wanna see what difference between them except for tires. I have endurance bike, and I'm debating about getting a gravel or a cyclocross bike.
@konstantinlevin9135 on the Canyon website, you can compare them side by side and get a good idea of the differences. Of course not someones opinion on them, just facts. Essentially though the most common thing they have is a more relaxed geometry, other than that, the road bike and the gravel bike are pretty different with regards to the components, tyre clearance and the tires which are optimized for different purposes.
Amazing video! So informative and helpful! Thank you for making it!!
You are welcome. I am glad you found it useful :)
I just got a Grizl 8 Al 1 by.Super bike!!! Love it so much.The color(same as yours),the welding is just amazing,GRX group is perfect(well,here I will change a bit to 10-51 casette instead of 10-45 as it came with).I got the size S(I’m 175 cm tall and 80 cm inseam) and the bike fits perfect!!!The only thing which I’m scared is that I got a redshift suspension stem which came in 80mm lenght and Canyon have 70mm stem lenght…hope this will not affect so much the geometry…
Anyway! Great review of the bike and thank you for this🙏Safe rides!
Earl Grey is such a nice color. They welding looks really smooth on the AL version. Glad to hear the bike fits you perfectly :)
You seem to be on the upper range of the S, so perhaps adding 10mm in stem length is not a big issue. Have you tried it already?
Thanks a ton for watching, enjoy your Grizl!!
Did you have to change the chain when you moved up to the 10-51 or was the original chain long enough?
@@davidw2739 I changed all(chain+ deraillor)
Have the same bike. I use it as a commuter, winterbike and gravel bike. Really happy with it. Only "problem" are the wheel. They feel really heavey/sluggish when riding on road.
Yes, the wheels are quite heavy compared to my Endurace. But it is an amazing bike for all the use cases you mentioned. Thanks for watching!
I have the exact same bike and the exact same problem with the creaking seatpost. I solved it in the meantime: apply a strip of electrical tape between the two parts, use a thick carbon paste and last but not least (over)tighten the bolt that keeps both parts together. I went just a little over the prescribed amount of torque but that did the trick and that horrible ticking and creaking is now gone. Hope this helps for you too!
Thanks a lot for your comment and your suggestion. This is very useful! I will get some electrical tape and see if it helps. Will report back :)
@@HeyImRod Yes, let me know if it helped! Good luck, I sure hope you get rid of that creaking.
yey man. this is the video that i have been searching. searching for my first bike and hear the answers to the same quastions that I am stating now!
Thanks! Glad to see the video has been useful to people :)
I order one in the middle of august. The shipping term is now at the end of october, so not so great. First it was at the end of september, but they changed it. I am 182 cm and I ordered size M, so I think is needs to be ok for me.
I was in similar position 2 years ago. Sometimes they speed things up (perhaps because they get additional supply parts for the bikes?).
I think M is good for you, but of course a bike fitter would give you the definite answer :)
Very informative video Thank You Sir!
You are welcome, I am glad the video was useful :)
Just bought the grizl al over the cf because i do a lot of touring and want to be able to attach panniers. Cant wait
Enjoy your new Grizl! :)
Amazing video! I have checked the frame size the stack/reach ration is very aggressive, it could be a problem. I am 181cm with 85 inside length, M is recommanded, but I do want L for more stack, but after calculation I think if I buy L, there is litte range for adjustment, so I think as mentioned in the video, shorter stem with rising handlebar is a good choice, but overall it is an aggressive bike frame, if someone want very comfortable experience, other bikes like diverge may be a good choice.
Totally, the Grizl has a very aggressive geometry for a gravel bike. I wouldn't get L if I were you. Yes you will get more stack but also more reach. Flipping the stem on the M is an option (but I didn't like the looks of it when I flipped the stem).
Rose's Backroad can also be a good alternative.
Hey man. Did you get the L or the M? I'm exactly your size and inside length and I was wondering about that myself. Had a Grail 7 in M until recently and I was really at the maximum for its dimensions. I flipped the stem but still, a L would have been better. However the Grizls are apparently sizing bigger than the old grails and the M seems right for us.
@@greham I am 182 cms with 83 cm leg. I ordered M and I am waiting now for the shippment. I should get it at the end of october. Then I can tell you, if it is a proper size, but I think, that for both of us, L will be too big.
I have till now 3 other Canyon bikes - all mtb - 2 Grand Canyons and Neuron. Grand Canyons in M and L and Neuron in L. Grand Canyon in M was to small, in L ok. Neuron in L was a little bit to big I think - so, with the frame size it is never easy. :)
@@user-ve9uh4ek2lAlso waiting for your feelings (size fit) 😊
For those who wanna buy Canyon - keep in mind that you can't return an outlet (Sale) bike. Sale is final.
Very true!
Not according to their web site
@@k.r.lionheart6460 Maybe they changed their policy? When I was looking to buy the Grizl I remember reading that their outlet sales were final.
Creaking a seatpost is a pain. I have been suffering a lot from this with my Orbea Terra.
Have you tried anything else besides carbon paste? I am hoping my LBS can fix the issue once and for all. I'll report back.
Thanks for watching :)
I think all the bike have the similar problems because of sand that get stack around the tube especially if you put a lot of grease so it gets sticky plus grease by self have some kind of sand in. Try to dry and use electrical tape where clamp is coming and everything goes away. It depends what kind of system you have but this use yo work for me. Cheers
Hi HeylmRod, Great video! Maybe you can help me with a question - I was thinking of purchasing either a Grizl 6 AL or Grail (Gen1 carbon, double handle bars) and not sure what is a better option. I tend to do a lot of light to medium gravel riding. Any suggestions?
Hey!
In my opinion, both bikes are great. What components would come with the Grail? I think the "lowest tier" on the Grail 1st gen is GRX-600 or the etap version, so in theory they are "better" than the Grizl 6.
Given that you do light to medium gravel riding, I'd go for the Grail (if you are ok with the double decker handle bars -- they are not for everyone, but if you like them , then why not?).
The advantage the of Grizl is that it is more a "normal bike" and you can make minor adjustments (stem length, flipping the stem, chagning the cockpit, etc.) to have the perfect fit. However, the weight difference is around 1kg (so kind of significant?). Also, carbon is just better IMHO :)
Are you planning on doing bike packing? Where do you fall in the size chart provided by canyon? Do you fall between sizes? These are questions I'd ask myself if I were you (you probably did already).
I'd go for the Grail :)
Grizl AL is the command.. Grail Gen 1 was fired by gen 2
Thank you for all the informations.
Is that a Nordiska Piano?
Hey! I actually have no idea, haha. My partner received it as a gift :)
As of now there is still issue with stock, I had to check every day for 3 weeks to get my hands on it cuz they sell out in less than 2 hours when they update it on website
Oh wow I did not know they still have issues with stock... I thought it was a just a short-term effect of the pandemic
@@HeyImRod ive ordered the Basic grizl5
Took me 3 days to find a proper end user review
Thanks a ton--I am glad you found the video useful :)
alas I dont have that bike but it looks super nice. I got a 2X roadbike and a 3X MTB. And well I reallly really think 1X is the future so I've been searching for my dream bike,which would be one that combines the nimbleness of a road bike with the huge gear range of a NTB. Out of sheer chance I recently found the Canyon Roalite 6 (and 7) and I got totally enamoured with it, I wanted to cry 'cos I dont see bikes like that often. The Roadlite 6 is 1X, it has a 46T chainring and a 12 gears 10-51T cassette. So it's basically faster than my current road bike (which is 48-34T chainring and 11-34T cassette, and 46/10 is faster than 48/11) and climbs better than my current road bike (34/34 easiest gear of my road bike and 46/51 the easiest gear of the Roadlite 6 or 7) in the very hilly place where I live.
I expect to get a new bike in early January, and also found the Canyon Pathlite 6 or 7, which is drivetrain wise very similar to the Roadlite, but the chainring has 36T. So it's even better for my area where there are lots of hills and the weather is very rainy. After much consideration and while I love the Roadlite the most, I asked Canyon's staff and given the area where I live they recommended me the Pathlite, with which I agree tough asthetics wise the Roadlite looks super gorgeous and unique to me (I wnated a bike with flat bars, specially with flat bar ends it's easier for me to handle than drop bar bikes, and you can place the hands in different positions 'cos of the bar ends to avoid fatigue).
Btw how do you know that the seatpost is creaking and not somewhere else? Does it happen when you sit or you are riding? Just curious..., as I dont know how to discern where a creaking sound comes from
Hey! I think 1x has become very popular for gravel bikes. If you look at Canyon's Grail or Grizl on their website, most of them are 1x. One year ago, when I was looking to buy a gravel bike, almost all of them were 2x. I think there's definitely a trend towards 1x.
Happy to hear the new bike day is coming for you! The Roadlite is a nice bike -- I see many of them in the city. Also the Pathlite. I don't have the Pathlite, but I have a Scott Sub Cross 10 (got it as a gift). I believe it is Scott's competitor to the Pathlite, given that both are touring bikes and geometrywise are fairly similar. Just mentioning this because the Sub Cross 10 is super comfortable for long rides and it is not as slow as one may think. So I think the Pathlite will be fairly similar to it. I do see the appeal for flat bars -- it took me a fair bit of time to get adjusted to the drop bars. If I were you I'd get the Pathlite too, as the tire width may come in handy for rainy conditions. Plus the gearing that comes with the Pathlite may suit your area better.
Seatpost -- It happens when I am sitting. If I am out of the saddle and pedaling, I hear nothing. Adding carbon paste to the seatpost helped for a bit (for a few minutes there was no creaking) but the noise is still there albeit less louder and frequent. I haven't taken the bike to my bike mechanic just yet, as I haven't gone cycling in over a month because of rainy and cold Switzerland.
@@HeyImRod many thanks for the detailed reply. I've experienced a creaking sound on my road bike but it was due to the regular disc brake rotor of the back wheel 'cos the cable's tension was too high so the brake lever was always pressed.
My MTB has also disc brakes, but they are hydraulic disc brakes and that makes a super HUGE difference in how they feel, the braking is much better and safer.
I've been taking a look at the Scott bike you mentioned, yup it looks very similar to the Canyon Pathtile. It looks like a nice mix of a road bike and a hardtail mtb, quite lean looking.
The main difference I found is the drivetrain, which is 3X. Nothing against 2X and 3X, but I am used to that and after many chain cross issues, or having the chain dropped and so on and so forth, I want my next bike to be 1X. The Jumbo Visma team, which won the Tour de France used a 1X bike on several stages. The main issue with 2X and 3X imho is that 2 or 3 chainrings need the front mech, which is another mechanical element to worry about. Without it and the fact that it weighs less and can be more aero (don't care about this but that's what they say), etc, I think 1X is looking better by the day.
The best advantage of 2X and 3X is imo emergency gear shifting. So you are riding downhill and then comes a very tough uphill, you just switch to the smaller chainring and switch gears if needed.
In regards to the Pathlite, as you say, it might be the better option for me. The Roadlite is fine and it is quite the looker, but what you lose in speed (46/10 fastest gear on the Roadlite vs 36/10 of the Pathlite) you win in versatility with the Pathlite. The tyres are also a factor. The Roadlite can admit up to 38mm afaik, which is not bad at all, but without suspension, at 10Kg, on a very uneven surface your body is going to suffer. I always use the Sram tyres pressure calculator to set up my bike and it works like a charm for me, so with a 38mm tyre the recommended tyre pressure is going to give you a certain suppleness in rough uneven terrain. But even so, a rigid alloy frame like that on certain places is going to give you a rough time even on supple tyres.
Additionally, I think 35mm to 40mm (maybe up to 45mm) is the perfect spot for both speed and safety (wet surfaces, descents) plus comfort.
The Pathlite admits relatively wide tyres and that's a huge plus. Also, 36/10 as the hardest gear is plenty fast. It's the equivalent of the 40/11 of my current MTB, and while I don't use my MTB for speed for obvious reasons, yesterday I was riding at 57Km/h on a descent using my MTB which is my record for now. So yeah the Roadlite is plenty fast.
Additionally, the Pathlite has okay stock tyres, but after they wear out, it gives you the flexibility to choose from the best road bikes like say a 32mm GP5000 or my favourite, the 32mm Continental Ultra Speed III (cheap and fast with low rolling resistance). Dunno if there are 35mm or 40mm (my favourite widths for road) GP5000 or Ultra Speed III tyres but anyways.
My idea is to get a durable "gravel" tyre with good rolling resistance, so I always check www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ to stay informed about the best choices, specially taking into account that most gravel tyres are just expensive :/ , unlike road tyres where some have great rolling resistence and cost 15€, so given the fact that the prize is very similar I'd rather prefer to have the best of them both in rolling resistance and durability (a difficult combination, very few accomplish that, if any)
Peak Swiss. 🧀
Can you tell me what color this is? Darjeeling?
Earl Grey!
You're 197 and got a L? Why not XXL? You need 60 cm min
Not available at the time?
I am 190 cm tall
How tall are you, and whats your inseam? maybe I missed it..
190cm with 90cm inseam
188/91.5 here and went with the large as well@@HeyImRod
how's the fit ? @@MattWrightMTB
@@HeyImRod as you mentioned in the video instead of going with the XL going with the L is the right choice. In fact, if you are between two sizes (if I understood you correctly the recommendation was on the low spectre of XL), it's always better to choose the smaller size, and ALL companies recommend this. Decathlon always mention that for instance, if you visit their online store and you are undecided about what to get
@@xosece you are totally correct. I am very happy with L right now. I couldn't imagine riding the Grizl in XL now. Also, as many have already said online: it's easier to make a small bike larger than making a large bike smaller.
DON'T order two bikes just to try them out. Try to reduce returns. Shipping/Freight is a massive contributor to CO2 emissions, and the producers many times do all they can to make shipping and returs as cheap and available as possible for the consumer, which means, you put a lot of pressure on them and necessary work. Don't act stupid just because you can.
But canyon hadn’t local stores or dealerships , so you can’t check bike before you buy.
@@Maros314 well it doesn't matter, we can't go around send bikes all around the world just for people to take a look at them, that's crazy.
Womp womp