IMPORTANT NOTE: Any Incandescent MAGLITE with 'D' in the serial number will require T8 Torx. All Incandescent models without the D serial number require Hex/Allen Key. I bought the official Maglite T8 because every Torx T8 I own is too thick preventing me from pushing it all the way in.
Mine didn't. I have one made in FEB 2000 (as per maglite) with a D in the serial # and it used an allen wrench a 2mm worked fine. I bought a newer style switch direct from mag and it used a torx t8 with a long narrow shaft from Eklind (a US company) that worked just fine. I could be wrong, but I think it was around 2003 or maybe a bit later that mag changed to the "Torx switch".
I would like to start with a maglite. Make a super bright maglite. How bright could i make one with your drop in and this resistance mod? is there more i should do?Eventually I wouldn't mind buying an LED pad off your site and build my own.
The output will vary based on battery type and VF of your LEDs, but doing all the resistance fixes I know to do (this, the tail spring progold etc) I have had them reach as high as 7,000 on occasion. I think you should take a swing at doing one of your own mods Tee Jay. If you get into trouble I am always glad to walk you through it.
I have done 2 way radio communication all my life. Flashlights is something i am just really interested in and learning how to mod myself. So i figured it would be easier to start with a maglite. So would you recommend doing one of your drop ins or getting a reflector and LED/pad separately?
Doing it with the dropin would be the easiest way to go. If you have experience soldering, doing one of the other builds could be fun too. If learning to build is a key aspect for you I would recommend building a 4000 lumen XHP70 light with the reflector. You would need to remove the top of the mag switch and solder on a pair of wires, and also install the driver board, but I can lay out some instructions for you. This is basically the foundation for doing most flashlight builds. Parts you would need: Heat sink, driver, LED, host, lens. If you think that is the way you want to go I can post the appropriate links to help you get what you need.
Matt, thanks once again. I’m viewing all your instructional videos several times to obtain the minutest detail you are saying. And as such I have one enquiry about this particular video. This is about the small Copper disk that’s soldered on to contacts. I’d definitely prefer the Copper disk soldered to contacts rather than neodymium magnets. ( though I respect the power of it ) There was no additional info on the Copper Disk, so I request details of its availability and price. Once again thank you, so profusely, for your hard work and dedication to impart knowledge to public.
The discs are called "gas checks" they are a part that goes inside of a bullet for reloading. I think the ones I had were 32 caliber. I don't have them any more. What I use now is a copper spring that is gold plated I get from here. intl-outdoor.com/gold-plated-beryllium-copper-spring-5-pcs-p-831.html?zenid=7026cc96579bce452fafd3e544f30e02 I attach the small end to the base of the switch.
Im gonna do this mod to my custom 6D maglite tomorrow what is the resistance of the spring before the mod ? An what is the resistance after the mod ?.. i watched your video closely. Shouldnt i squeeze the spring down 1cm then try to solder both connections? So the wire doesnt catch the spring ? What size wire are you using 16 gauge ? Since im using 4 , 26650 batterys to a 24 v led bulb i should use 14 gauge wire ? Im currently at 16.8 v
I do it mostly so that no magnet is needed to make contact on the bottom of the switch. If you do both mods you also get lower resistance, so slightly higher power and slightly more efficiant use of the batteries.
Its possible. If the issue is not a mechanical failure, you can try putting some deoxit gold in there. ruclips.net/video/OGvemNm4YRo/видео.html Its pretty good stuff.
If the dropin your using is direct drive/linear like my brand it means higher output. In any case it will also mean lower resistance for greater efficiency.
Do all Maglite (Incandescent) 2D-6D springs have the same resistance? I feel like doing a easy cheap mod by putting a 6D Xenon bulb in my 3 D Mag running on 2x 3AA series adapters giving me 178 lumens. It's not a lot but it's enough for me until I really get addicted to this stuff. :)
i bought a new Maglite like we discussed but the t8 looks way too big to whats in it. is there a way to very this lite takes the t8 before i shave down a torque screw driver?
The only other option I know of besides grinding down the shaft of the tool would be be knock the hex teeth off the nut inside the switch. If you put a 5/64 drill bit down into the switch hole and drill it for about 1 second you can knock the star shaped teeth off the nut and then use a standard type allen key to free the switch.
I currently did this mod an I 100% confirmed it does work Gen 1mag lite early 80s model with the front brass ring ohms at 1.4 ohm after the mod it lowers the ohm rate to .40 ohm . The gen 2 an maglites with the switches that drop out the bottom ohm at 2.4 or higher ohms. I'll do this mod on a few of them tomorrow an post a update
Hi Blaz, You might be able to order one directly from Maglite. I order incandescent switches from them. You have to provide the serial number for the flashlight. They will probly also warranty the light if your willing to send it to them.
I think I'm just going to recycle my maglight. Between junk like this, what appears to be a maglight corporate policy against upgrading their flashlights and blazing options available for cheap what's the point of owning one?
IMPORTANT NOTE: Any Incandescent MAGLITE with 'D' in the serial number will require T8 Torx. All Incandescent models without the D serial number require Hex/Allen Key. I bought the official Maglite T8 because every Torx T8 I own is too thick preventing me from pushing it all the way in.
Mine didn't. I have one made in FEB 2000 (as per maglite) with a D in the serial # and it used an allen wrench a 2mm worked fine. I bought a newer style switch direct from mag and it used a torx t8 with a long narrow shaft from Eklind (a US company) that worked just fine. I could be wrong, but I think it was around 2003 or maybe a bit later that mag changed to the "Torx switch".
I couldn't tell what you were doing or really see what was going on but all your other videos are really good
Do you recommend doing the resistance mod for your own 5000 Lumen drop in?
My maglites use 5/64ths" hex/allen to loosen the set screw to take the switch assembly out.
Great vid. I just wish I could see what you were doing.
Thanks for the info on the switch current path modification . I never knew the positive drain is through the “spring !” Well ...
Cheers.
man....i want to learn how to build my own lights or mod lights like this...i find this amazing.
Are you wanting to build a Maglite, or is there something else you had in mind?
I would like to start with a maglite. Make a super bright maglite. How bright could i make one with your drop in and this resistance mod? is there more i should do?Eventually I wouldn't mind buying an LED pad off your site and build my own.
The output will vary based on battery type and VF of your LEDs, but doing all the resistance fixes I know to do (this, the tail spring progold etc) I have had them reach as high as 7,000 on occasion. I think you should take a swing at doing one of your own mods Tee Jay. If you get into trouble I am always glad to walk you through it.
I have done 2 way radio communication all my life. Flashlights is something i am just really interested in and learning how to mod myself. So i figured it would be easier to start with a maglite. So would you recommend doing one of your drop ins or getting a reflector and LED/pad separately?
Doing it with the dropin would be the easiest way to go. If you have experience soldering, doing one of the other builds could be fun too. If learning to build is a key aspect for you I would recommend building a 4000 lumen XHP70 light with the reflector. You would need to remove the top of the mag switch and solder on a pair of wires, and also install the driver board, but I can lay out some instructions for you. This is basically the foundation for doing most flashlight builds.
Parts you would need:
Heat sink, driver, LED, host, lens.
If you think that is the way you want to go I can post the appropriate links to help you get what you need.
Matt, thanks once again. I’m viewing all your instructional videos several times to obtain the minutest detail you are saying.
And as such I have one enquiry about this particular video. This is about the small Copper disk that’s soldered on to contacts.
I’d definitely prefer the Copper disk soldered to contacts rather than neodymium magnets. ( though I respect the power of it )
There was no additional info on the Copper Disk, so I request details of its availability and price.
Once again thank you, so profusely, for your hard work and dedication to impart knowledge to public.
The discs are called "gas checks" they are a part that goes inside of a bullet for reloading. I think the ones I had were 32 caliber. I don't have them any more. What I use now is a copper spring that is gold plated I get from here.
intl-outdoor.com/gold-plated-beryllium-copper-spring-5-pcs-p-831.html?zenid=7026cc96579bce452fafd3e544f30e02 I attach the small end to the base of the switch.
Is the tiny little spring on the back of the switch for the battery positive contact not an even worse high resistance point?
Matt, Great Video as always. Thanks for sharing!!
Im gonna do this mod to my custom 6D maglite tomorrow what is the resistance of the spring before the mod ? An what is the resistance after the mod ?.. i watched your video closely. Shouldnt i squeeze the spring down 1cm then try to solder both connections? So the wire doesnt catch the spring ? What size wire are you using 16 gauge ? Since im using 4 , 26650 batterys to a 24 v led bulb i should use 14 gauge wire ? Im currently at 16.8 v
matt what are the benefits of doing this with my maglite 2D,im running 2 26650 cells with your 5000 lumen drop in. is this mod worth doing?
I do it mostly so that no magnet is needed to make contact on the bottom of the switch. If you do both mods you also get lower resistance, so slightly higher power and slightly more efficiant use of the batteries.
Matt, I was able to use a 2mm allen key for that switch.
Hi Jason, Thanks for sharing . Any mag made before about 2013 or so will have the allen key rather than the hex :)
+AdventureSportFlashlights Okay, good to know.
I do have a question for you, on my pre 2013 light can a sticky switch be fixed?
Its possible. If the issue is not a mechanical failure, you can try putting some deoxit gold in there.
ruclips.net/video/OGvemNm4YRo/видео.html
Its pretty good stuff.
AdventureSportFlashlights
Is there any advantage/drawback of doing this spring resistance trick while using drop in led upgrade?
If the dropin your using is direct drive/linear like my brand it means higher output. In any case it will also mean lower resistance for greater efficiency.
@@Lumencraft- Thanks for your answer.
I'm about to mod my 6D.
I've learned a lot watching your channel
@thomasdivito6221 Hey Thomas
What size drop in led upgrade did you use and did you notice any increase in performance after doing the spring mod ??
Do all Maglite (Incandescent) 2D-6D springs have the same resistance? I feel like doing a easy cheap mod by putting a 6D Xenon bulb in my 3 D Mag running on 2x 3AA series adapters giving me 178 lumens. It's not a lot but it's enough for me until I really get addicted to this stuff. :)
i bought a new Maglite like we discussed but the t8 looks way too big to whats in it. is there a way to very this lite takes the t8 before i shave down a torque screw driver?
The only other option I know of besides grinding down the shaft of the tool would be be knock the hex teeth off the nut inside the switch. If you put a 5/64 drill bit down into the switch hole and drill it for about 1 second you can knock the star shaped teeth off the nut and then use a standard type allen key to free the switch.
per our other conversation would the mag lite 2d cell xenon work for what im trying to do?
Yes, that is what I use, any of the standard incan ones.
I currently did this mod an I 100% confirmed it does work Gen 1mag lite early 80s model with the front brass ring ohms at 1.4 ohm after the mod it lowers the ohm rate to .40 ohm . The gen 2 an maglites with the switches that drop out the bottom ohm at 2.4 or higher ohms. I'll do this mod on a few of them tomorrow an post a update
Great tutorial, thank you. Now to my problem: where the heck can i buy replacement switch form my Rebel 2D led Maglite?
Hi Blaz,
You might be able to order one directly from Maglite. I order incandescent switches from them. You have to provide the serial number for the flashlight. They will probly also warranty the light if your willing to send it to them.
if the spring is still touching the two ends wouldn't it add more resistance?
Hi Auguiste, If the wire and the spring are touching the ends it will lower resistance because current can travel through both of them.
Tenho uma desta ai queria comprar a peça de dentro
Hola amigo, tengo una maglite ml150lr y no se como desmontar el interruptor
I think the switch is not user servicable on that. You can call maglite and ask them
Great Video excellent THANKS
GOOD NIGHT YOUNG I DO MAINTENANCE ON THESE LANTERNS
@
Pois tenho uma com defeito gostaria de concertar
I just wasted 15 minutes of my life and not a single led in sight. No series resistors no constant current drivers what was the point
I think I'm just going to recycle my maglight. Between junk like this, what appears to be a maglight corporate policy against upgrading their flashlights and blazing options available for cheap what's the point of owning one?
Poderia esplicar um pouco mais
Boa
Too bad it is so out of focus.