Thanks for the info,very good.I am just starting to learn this and you know a lot.My target fish might be jack,pike,musky of central Canada-hunters with large eyes so the rattle may be a waste of time.I usually fish salmon and steelhead near Vancouver,B.C.,Canada,I plan to watch everything you upload.Thanks again.
Work in progress.Still in perfecting the lure.Well done.Just wondering if changing to an internal rattle system,which you really have already,might catch more fish.You are good.!!
they look pretty good. what do you think of the lip design ? what wood are they made of? i've been making a few lathe turned blanks, practicing turning technique, getting the shapes right and , generally getting use to the lathe. i have not painted any of the blanks yet. you have a couple complicated lures there. thanks for posting buzz if i could figure out how to run my camera's video setting i would upload a video!%$#@!
my brother makes pretty similar once that you have there from balsa wood, they were super deadly for zander and pike this past season while we were doing some trolling so im pretty sure that you will be successful with your models too.
Sorry , English is not my first language , also difficult for me to explain things in front of the camera ,........also they say about us north Germans , that we do not like to make much of words , LOL !
@bluetoad2001 Thanks mate , .......but I can't tell the type of wood I've used , they're broomsticks available in local tool marts , a tropical wood , very light and without a pronounced grain. These lips are quite foolproof to get a lure to swim , .......one can make them for shallow divers and also for deeper running baits , just by altering the kinked front portion's length and angle to a certain extend , ...got lures with such lips running at 12 feet ! Looking forward to your vids !
I use lures like this for muskie and have tried playing around with wood and can get them to go down 4 or 5 feet I use hardwood but it will lose action I feel a good diving lip and wood is the key to success tight lines my friend
+outdoors man This clip is a few years old by now , and I have not gone further into this direction of internal shifting ballast . During my further luremaking I've found this principle to be obsolete , at least on deep diving lures , since when one makes the body in a way that the fattest an most voluminous portion is a bit behind the lengthwise center , the necessary ballast could be placed more rearward as well . In conjuncton with a rather forward pointing deep diving lip acting as a stabilizing rudder on flight such lures would also dart like missiles and achieve great casting distances . Off course such won't work well with lures sporting protruding shallow diving lips , these do always offer a certain garde of air resistance, thus can never be the best casting lures around . But playing around with such "Z" or "Pikie" lips , one could still design rather shallow running lures , that would still cast fairly far , .......just make the body a bit fatter behind the lengthwise center for added ballast down the rear , ......the lower part of the "Z" lip is also does not protrude over the belly of the lure that much to generate too much air resistance , .......by altering it's length , width and angle you can also get into a depth range of 2 to 15 feet , of course also depending on size and remaining buoyancy of the lure . You are right , that hardwood lures usually tend to act more sluggish then lures made out of less denser timber ,....also with more buoyant materials we've got more options to take influence with ballast amount and location in the lure body . I like these "Pikie" style lure very much , as they are quite easy to make and yet have their appeal o local pike . Greetings , Dieter
Thanks a lot , those screws are also epoxied , would surely hold up for pike , ....but you're right , not so sure about salwater species , better go thru-wired for these . If you're interest in saltwater plugs , search for term "striper lures" in here or at Google . Cheers , 61diemai
.............nope , ...no space due to the internal weights .......just screweyes in front and rear and homemade belly hook hangers . Cheers , 61diemai
have you made bottle plugs like this? I make my wooden swimmer's with a turned wood lip like the rush tango swimmer you made in your video! a great way to keep them running shallow and I keep saving money on aluminum sheets to make lips as well. I like my hooks in the belly and in the tail it doesn't hurt the action of the lure at all to have a hook in the tail so I just went with it. this is for everyone dieter I was just thinking out loud. I do agree with what you said in all aspects of construction! sorry I didn't see this video before and just saw how old it was now I'm just a little behind lol. tight lines my friend
+outdoors man Hi , Jay , ........I have made only one bottle plug so far , ......a solid one without shifting internal ballast : ruclips.net/video/HxoUzqvKcKU/видео.html No neccessity for shifting ballast on such lure , as it is very streamlined and does not have any protruding diving vane below it's chin , so it' casts quite well . This one was an experiment , that I had accomplished with the help of a guy on www.stripersonline.com , .......without him I would not have known , that these lures often require just a little ballast below their chin to help the cupped mouth to shoulder into the water better , ...so I've placed just a little lead shot in there , really does the job , .....obviously , ....as the lure swims just fine . I haven't made another one of such bottle plugs so far ,...usually too many other lure ideas spinning around my mind , .......and they have a similar action to my proven "Lucky 13" knock-offs , anway . On some models(like such "Rush Tango" versions in this video here) I'm a little bit concerned about tail trebles , ...I figure out , that sometimes both trebles located at the belly side might provide some kind of stability to a lure preventing it from possibly overturning and blowing out , ........but naturally this would be subject of every single lure model or even every single handmade lure ??? Regarding the bottle plug again , .....In general I am pretty much sure , that ALL lure models designed for striper bass fishing would be successful on northern pike and probably muskie as well , ...at least when a shallow lure approach would be in order . Best greetings , Dieter
There is no tape on the aluminium sheet , it has a surface finish like this . Aluminium cannot be shiny polished , anyway , ...if you want such polished finnish , you need to make the lips of stainless steel , .......but these would probably become too heavy in this 1mm thickness , ......0,5mm stainless would be OK in terms of weight , .....but would be subject to easier warping or bending out of shape . Greetz , 61diemai
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Greetings Friend great 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼⛲⛲
Thank you , ...tight lines from northern Germany !
Thanks for the info,very good.I am just starting to learn this and you know a lot.My target fish might be jack,pike,musky of central Canada-hunters with large eyes so the rattle may be a waste of time.I usually fish salmon and steelhead near Vancouver,B.C.,Canada,I plan to watch everything you upload.Thanks again.
Ideia este si a mea dar eu le fac din pluta .Bingo ,si da rezultate si in apa dulce .Gindim la fel .Succes in continuare .
thanks for the ideas ==very easy design ==genius ==keep fishing ==good luck
tom
Work in progress.Still in perfecting the lure.Well done.Just wondering if changing to an internal rattle system,which you really have already,might catch more fish.You are good.!!
Thanks a lot , ......always like to tinker with different lure designs .
they look pretty good.
what do you think of the lip design ?
what wood are they made of?
i've been making a few lathe turned blanks, practicing turning technique, getting the shapes right and , generally getting use to the lathe.
i have not painted any of the blanks yet.
you have a couple complicated lures there.
thanks for posting
buzz
if i could figure out how to run my camera's video setting i would upload a video!%$#@!
my brother makes pretty similar once that you have there from balsa wood, they were super deadly for zander and pike this past season while we were doing some trolling so im pretty sure that you will be successful with your models too.
Sorry , English is not my first language , also difficult for me to explain things in front of the camera ,........also they say about us north Germans , that we do not like to make much of words , LOL !
@bluetoad2001
Thanks mate , .......but I can't tell the type of wood I've used , they're broomsticks available in local tool marts , a tropical wood , very light and without a pronounced grain.
These lips are quite foolproof to get a lure to swim , .......one can make them for shallow divers and also for deeper running baits , just by altering the kinked front portion's length and angle to a certain extend , ...got lures with such lips running at 12 feet ! Looking forward to your vids !
very good ideas
I use lures like this for muskie and have tried playing around with wood and can get them to go down 4 or 5 feet I use hardwood but it will lose action I feel a good diving lip and wood is the key to success
tight lines my friend
+outdoors man
This clip is a few years old by now , and I have not gone further into this direction of internal shifting ballast .
During my further luremaking I've found this principle to be obsolete , at least on deep diving lures , since when one makes the body in a way that the fattest an most voluminous portion is a bit behind the lengthwise center , the necessary ballast could be placed more rearward as well .
In conjuncton with a rather forward pointing deep diving lip acting as a stabilizing rudder on flight such lures would also dart like missiles and achieve great casting distances .
Off course such won't work well with lures sporting protruding shallow diving lips , these do always offer a certain garde of air resistance, thus can never be the best casting lures around .
But playing around with such "Z" or "Pikie" lips , one could still design rather shallow running lures , that would still cast fairly far , .......just make the body a bit fatter behind the lengthwise center for added ballast down the rear , ......the lower part of the "Z" lip is also does not protrude over the belly of the lure that much to generate too much air resistance , .......by altering it's length , width and angle you can also get into a depth range of 2 to 15 feet , of course also depending on size and remaining buoyancy of the lure .
You are right , that hardwood lures usually tend to act more sluggish then lures made out of less denser timber ,....also with more buoyant materials we've got more options to take influence with ballast amount and location in the lure body .
I like these "Pikie" style lure very much , as they are quite easy to make and yet have their appeal o local pike .
Greetings , Dieter
Thanks a lot , ....glad if I could provide some input , .....tight lines , Dieter
Thanks a lot , those screws are also epoxied , would surely hold up for pike , ....but you're right , not so sure about salwater species , better go thru-wired for these .
If you're interest in saltwater plugs , search for term "striper lures" in here or at Google . Cheers , 61diemai
.............nope , ...no space due to the internal weights .......just screweyes in front and rear and homemade belly hook hangers . Cheers , 61diemai
Kind of good but darn need a router. Don't like the screw in part but be okay for pike I think but not Los Cabos. Still pretty good.
have you made bottle plugs like this? I make my wooden swimmer's with a turned wood lip like the rush tango swimmer you made in your video! a great way to keep them running shallow and I keep saving money on aluminum sheets to make lips as well. I like my hooks in the belly and in the tail it doesn't hurt the action of the lure at all to have a hook in the tail so I just went with it. this is for everyone dieter I was just thinking out loud. I do agree with what you said in all aspects of construction! sorry I didn't see this video before and just saw how old it was now I'm just a little behind lol.
tight lines my friend
+outdoors man
Hi , Jay , ........I have made only one bottle plug so far , ......a solid one without shifting internal ballast :
ruclips.net/video/HxoUzqvKcKU/видео.html
No neccessity for shifting ballast on such lure , as it is very streamlined and does not have any protruding diving vane below it's chin , so it' casts quite well .
This one was an experiment , that I had accomplished with the help of a guy on www.stripersonline.com , .......without him I would not have known , that these lures often require just a little ballast below their chin to help the cupped mouth to shoulder into the water better , ...so I've placed just a little lead shot in there , really does the job , .....obviously , ....as the lure swims just fine .
I haven't made another one of such bottle plugs so far ,...usually too many other lure ideas spinning around my mind , .......and they have a similar action to my proven "Lucky 13" knock-offs , anway .
On some models(like such "Rush Tango" versions in this video here) I'm a little bit concerned about tail trebles , ...I figure out , that sometimes both trebles located at the belly side might provide some kind of stability to a lure preventing it from possibly overturning and blowing out , ........but naturally this would be subject of every single lure model or even every single handmade lure ???
Regarding the bottle plug again , .....In general I am pretty much sure , that ALL lure models designed for striper bass fishing would be successful on northern pike and probably muskie as well , ...at least when a shallow lure approach would be in order .
Best greetings , Dieter
How do you cut the middle out?
There is no tape on the aluminium sheet , it has a surface finish like this . Aluminium cannot be shiny polished , anyway , ...if you want such polished finnish , you need to make the lips of stainless steel , .......but these would probably become too heavy in this 1mm thickness , ......0,5mm stainless would be OK in terms of weight , .....but would be subject to easier warping or bending out of shape . Greetz , 61diemai
61diemai.you shold remove thin tape from aliuminium lips. it covers its real shining beuty
are they thru wired?
certainly dont want glue binding your balls LOL
Well ,....some guys might possibly enjoy such , I reckon , .....but I wouldn't , that's true .
having truble understanding you