Hi. What about making a hole in the gable wall a bit bigger than the steel beam, and sliding the steel beem through the gable wall by placing the on end on a rolling table? In the case you have shown the width of the loft is larger than the length and you had no wood members in the way.
Were the beam spliced (cut) in order to place them easily or where they full length beams craned into the loft? Also don't you use head height if beams are placed above existing ceiling joists?
Just wondering whether it was possible to simply come off of the purlins and build out the new floor off of those? Love the videos, thanks for making them
@@plummetplum interesting. I gues purlins come in a plethora of sizes so that's a variable worth considering. Also the span of said purlins and the weight of the ceiling it is holding.
@@barnetloftco Thanks for confirming. Read about them but can't imagine the material. Some people use slate Packers but think that's put in to get the beam level. It just interests me how the average house expands and contracts and the masonry relative to any steels.
Is there any distance required by building regulations between bottom of the steel and the top of the ceiling joists? If yes, than what is that distance? 🤔
Hej Daniel, best to speak to Building control about the regulations. We always position steels as low as possible above ceiling joist to maksimize headroom in the loft. In our nearly 20years experience this was never the issue.
Hi. What about making a hole in the gable wall a bit bigger than the steel beam, and sliding the steel beem through the gable wall by placing the on end on a rolling table?
In the case you have shown the width of the loft is larger than the length and you had no wood members in the way.
Were the beam spliced (cut) in order to place them easily or where they full length beams craned into the loft? Also don't you use head height if beams are placed above existing ceiling joists?
Great job 👏
thanks !
Just wondering whether it was possible to simply come off of the purlins and build out the new floor off of those?
Love the videos, thanks for making them
Not strong enough. My purlins have struts and ties supporting them just for the concrete tiles. No chance of hanging a floor off them.
@@plummetplum interesting. I gues purlins come in a plethora of sizes so that's a variable worth considering. Also the span of said purlins and the weight of the ceiling it is holding.
Great video. Do you have any slip membrane between the steels and the support pad?
hi, no there is no membrane between steel beam / steel plate or concrete pad stone
@@barnetloftco Thanks for confirming. Read about them but can't imagine the material. Some people use slate Packers but think that's put in to get the beam level. It just interests me how the average house expands and contracts and the masonry relative to any steels.
Is there any distance required by building regulations between bottom of the steel and the top of the ceiling joists? If yes, than what is that distance? 🤔
Hej Daniel, best to speak to Building control about the regulations. We always position steels as low as possible above ceiling joist to maksimize headroom in the loft. In our nearly 20years experience this was never the issue.
Yes, the standard is an inch or 25mm.
How wide did the opening have to be to swing that into place?
just a bit wider than the length of the beam