Thank you so much for taking the time to put this film together. Extremely helpful - especially your explanation of the lamp writing, as the diagram on the inside of the unit was unclear. The visual of how you did this was clearer. The old Singer 329 I found in a charity shop is now fully functional and rejuvenated! This was a very good instruction video, with a clear explanation about the benefits of the extra power. On the original Singer motor, this machine was not fit for purpose. With the new differentiated speed control and energy-efficient light bulb, it has a new life as an almost industrial level worktool. I enjoyed upgrading the machine, but it is unlikely that I would have attempted it without watching your film. And your workshop looks so very cool!
Harry. In six years things have moved on. The perfect upgrade that, so far as I know, no-one is offering, would be a 18-24volt DC motor with foot peddle control. There would a dramatic increase in torque, and given a proprietary step down pully option, many metal vintage machines could be used to sew two layers of oak tanned leather (with the right needle). In the USA Sailrite seem to have come up with exactly that option for the bloody expensive Ultrafeed machine. I reckon a universal DC motor, step-down pulley arrangement could be sold for £75 max. I'm surprised such a solution hasn't popped-up on RUclips. A Pfaff 130-6 (for instance) would be unstoppable as a straight/zigzag portable, without the need for a servo motor on a big table.
I have a Singer 66 from 1948. I plugged it in when I first took receipt of it and it immediately ran - that being said: the wires' insulation near the terminals are gone (it could easily short) and the button within the foot pedal is somehow missing. The plug is also cracked and was being held together with electrical tape. I've since overhauled the machine itself but I wasn't looking forward to addressing each of the little electronic nuisances - your video was all the convincing I needed. I'm going to pick such a kit up. Thank you - my shop time will be able to be spent doing more enjoyable things. The practical reality is: although machines such as these outshine most modern equivalents, it's more than fair to say the electronic components are much, much better today. Like you, I'll take the best of both eras.
@Piper Mccoy I gave it a quick enough look over to know it wasn't going to kill me lol. I also have soldered/done a fair bit of circuitry so I knew what I needed to do to remain safe. So I have replaced the motor & wiring, and it does run happily. But I haven't used it beyond testing lol - I'm in the middle of building a low-bench. I hope to use the Singer 66 soon to sew up a canvas sling for a Tripolina-style chair I have (It currently has this dreadful synthetic fabric).
If you loosen the two screws holding the motor to the metal bracket and the bigger screw nut which holds the bracket to the machine then you can slide the belt over the motor wheel, then slide the motor back into position and tighten the screws, job done.
Harry a huge thank you to you for your videos ❤️ I got my mums old pinnock sewing machine ( I have lost her and my sis gave me the machine at xmas but i only just could bring myself to open it couple weeks ago ) and I have upgraded using the same motor you used and am thrilled.....she taught me to sew on it and I so happy now I habe oiled and new motor its fantastic 🙌🏻🙌🏻
I've just bought one of these Harry, it's great and I'm going to try the same motor upgrade as your video. Thankyou for posting it. Hope you're doing okay with your health - best wishes. 🙋♂🙋♂
Harry - Thank you for kindly confirming that the connector block is part of the motor casing rather as I had thought, therefore unsuited to the restoration. Kind regards, Rob.
Hi Harry, I understand the need for a more powerful motor. I believe your original Singer foot pedal is a carbon pile foot petal and not a rheostat and the carbon pile foot controls are fairly easy to service to get them to work correctly and accurately as to speed control. You do lovely work on your projects, and thank you for posting your videos. Brett
Because electrical standards are so different from country to country. Singer is not what it was. You aren’t getting a fifties motor, you’re getting a cruising on name recognition motor. The Amazon motor is fine.
Thank you for sharing this wonderful video. These old machines are made to last more than a lifetime. I have a Neechi Nova and the booklet says. Made to last a lifetime. Blessings and keep up the good work Blessings
I just got a decent sewing machine that seems to have no problem going through medium leather but has the same for pedal problem. I wanted to do something just like this, thanks for the video!
Instructional as always 👍 I’m picking up a Singer 301 tomorrow and will attempt to do the same thing.... Hopefully the motor manufacturer is making a 220V alternative 🙏 Thanks for the insight 😀
Very interesting. I have an industrial sewing machine motor, something like 250W I think. One day when I can do a fixed install of a machine I will hook it up so I have REAL power lol.
Hi I know is a couple years ago. But I just got a Singer 224 beautiful machine. But is a UK plug and motor 230 v which unfortunately I can't use in USA. So I have to get a new motor and pedal. I'm new to sewing machines. I see some motor that are clock wise but I don't know if that's what I need.
Hi Harry. Thank you for the demo! I have purchased the same motor and now am having some difficulty connecting the lamp. My lamp has 3 cables but on looking at the motor housing I have only 2 places to connect them. Can I please have a pic of yours If possible
Thank you sooooo very much for this video! My wires is totally rotten on my Singer 201K and I have had so much trouble figuring out how to solve this problem with almost no knowledge in electricy. Now I know what to do! Will order this kit right away. I appreciate that is posible to go slow with this pedal. I thought that you had to buy a servo motor to get that slow motion. Do you know how many W this motor is? The cable to the lamp is bad as well so I need to exchange it but I guess that will not be a problem. Just buy some 2-wire 2x1.5 mm2 cable I guess?
I've just carried out this upgrade on my old 237 as it's old motor had given up. Thank you Harry for your fantastic videos, it made the process really simple, especially the wiring of the light and knowing where to find the elusive wiring diagram 😀. Led bulb ordered too.
Hey Harry, just wondering if you have an update on the motor? How is it holding up after three years later? I'm considering upgrading for the added control especially at slower speeds. Great video by the way! Thanks for providing this information for us all.
I tell ya, you can be very brave at times. Just the thought of replacing the motor albeit underpowered would have me a bit apprehensive with a classic like that machine. You did an exceptional job explaining it (as usual). thank you!
excellent video and have bought and installed the new motor etc. Can you assist with my fault the shuttle system jams up and it did this before the new motor etc. I have cleaned and oiled 100% so at a loss as to a fix shame its such a grand machine and this one ie pristine still thanks.
Hello Harry. Many thanks for all your videos. Since the first lockdown you and Jo Heard have taught me how to work with leather. Thank you! I have just bought a 201k Mk2 for stitching linings and pockets for my bags - lovely machine. I am about to buy a YDK replacement motor for mine. My question is. You fitted a 90w motor to yours but I see YDK also do 120w motor. Would this be suitable for the machine in that it could it be too powerful or not have the slow speed needed for precise stitching as you demonstrated? Many thanks once again and just to finish. I started looking at your videos because I fancied making a leather belt for myself. To date I have made 40 belts and 35 bags - see what you started! Kind regards and best wishes. David
Thanks David, that's great to hear. I was not aware of the 120w motor it's probably best to have a chat with the supplier....in principle it sounds good. Very well done with all those belts and bags as well! W
@@harryrogers Hello Harry. An update on the YDK 120 watt motor. I have now bought and fitted this to my 201k and it works like a dream. The poor old original motor really struggled, whereas the extra torque of the replacement gives me far more control sewing leather edgings to my lining pockets. Many thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Keep the videos coming, they are great. Best regards. David
@@davidbalchin3921 Hi David, was hoping you could provide the link to motor you purchased? I have been wanting to update my Singer mostly to sew bags and sounds like this worked well for you!
Another reason is just for the fun of it. I would like to get a 201 and put it into a table with a small 350 watt servo motor (disturbed maniacal laughter in the back ground). All the best.
Hi Harry I have a singer 252 fashion mate and the top tension doesn’t want to give me a nice sew the bobbin tension looks great I believe I need a new tension spring as you mentioned I ordered one but I don’t know how to get the knob off to replace the old one. It doesn’t have the screw like yours it’s covered my a knob . I hope you can help me .. Thank you..Lolly
Sorry I do not know..but look for online manuals...even for similar machines...such as this www.fixya.com/support/t17268952-replace_tension_assembly_singer_242
thank you for your good, clever videos . I've an 1897 singer15 model and looking your video it sews ! I bouth a chinese motor ( very cheap). It work good, sew well but too TOO fast. Do you think it is a problem with the reostat ? Shall I change the food pedal controller with better one ? The motor works at 220 volt. If yes could kindly show in Amazon ? Thank, thank from Italy and Merry XMas
I have a Belvedere Adler 190. Mr. Rogers, you think I can convert that to a leather sewing machine with this upgrade you show or have to go to a servo motor? Thank you for your videos.
Hello love your video.... I have recently inherited an old singer 306...... My question is.... Will it fit on that machine.... Regards Tina Simonsen 🇩🇰
Hello Harry, I enjoyed watching your video and it has given me some thoughts to possibly replacing all the motors on my restoration machines, although the price for each one would now be £60. One question regarding your hydraulic press in the back of your shots. Did you construct it yourself or was it a purchase? Thanks.
@@harryrogers Hello again Harry, thank you for this information, could I ask one other thing please? Where did you buy your metal precession oiler (click type) you used in your video?
Hi I see when you did the up grade on the motor the new motor came with a pully wheel how can I remove the pully on my 201k 1957 brown and cream model as the screw in the pully is removed pully won't move motor casing brakalite any advise would be helpful Michael
Do the electronically controlled motors maintain more torque at lower speeds than the old motor? Or is the motor basically the same, just with better speed control?
Mr. Rogers. I have a vintage Singer sewing machine model 263C that had a 80 watts motor. I need to change it and in my country I found a 100 watts motor. Not much avalaible these days...I am not sure if the 100 watts motor will work on the machine as normal, or it will be working too fast.. Please help me out. Regards from Chile South America
I have not a clue really, but I guess it would be OK. As you may be on different voltage I would ask at a shop, or find someone who does know...sorry not to be more helpful.
Thank you Sir. We are on 220 voltage. I will keep asking, not much people around to ask, maybe at my country capital I will may have an answer. I enjoyed you video so much.
I would like to upgrade my 201 to an electric motor like yours, but I have a potted motor attached to mine. If I remove the potted motor, the bobbin winding is attached to it. How can I upgrade or how do I add back the bobbin winder mechanism back onto the handwheel.? Please shed a light on this issue.
Your machine is so beautiful ! After seeing your video i want to upgrade my mom's machine, i have a small question, the current actually goes to the bulb without the foot control pressing ??? counter intuitive isn't it ??
Hi, I just been given my third old sewing machine to restore. It's a Jones CBD. The original motor was removed and replaced with a Singer motor, pedal and light. The original wire from inside the machine was disconnect but is still there. The machine only runs when you switch the light on! Can a new motor be connected to the old wires or are all new motors sealed? Wonder if you or someone could help please
Thank you for the video. I bought the same motor on the ebay two years ago, belt did not fit as well, foot pedal unfortunately gets hot like the old ones do, but overall it was worth upgrading, it is a bit risky to use motor which is 60 years old.
hahaha life is risky, get used to it. If you want to buy robust vintage gear get the risk and don't cry. You better ask electrican to refurbish and rewire your old Singer motor. Buying fatal quality chinesse "safe" replacement erzac engine doesn't solve your safety problem, you know? hahaha
Hello, Thank you for a useful video. I have a Singer 99k. Will this upgrade be suitable for this model?, as the power to the foot pedal and motor is wired directly into the machine?
The problem you've got with your old "rheostat" pedal, is not the carbon pile rheostat itself but rather the associated capacitors. The original capacitors are almost certainly "gone" and this causes, exactly the problem you are experiencing. Change these out for new and problem solved. > PS is quite an easy job but does involve soldering. >
Thanks again for this video. My machine now has so much more control!! One question though. I'm finding I have to run the upper thread tension at 9 to get a hf decent stitch. The bottom thread just bunches up otherwise. I'm guessing the bobbin tension is out. Any ideas on how to adjust it?
Harry, I have been looking to fit an electronic pedal to my Singer 306K which is fitted with a YDK 90w motor but I cannot find anyone selling them, all the ones I have seen on eBay etc are the one carbon disc type design. Are you able to confirm yours is electronic because it looks exactly like my existing one which I am presuming came with the motor. I am a bit confused being that no one I have found describes the replacement YDK Motor/Pedal kit as having an electronic pedal.Have you got a photo of the inside of your pedal with the bottom cover removed. My one seems to have very poor low speed control, it is too sensitive.The interior of the YDK foot control has the 2 carbon disc areas etc just like an old Singer one, these are mounted in a white ceramic block. I would be pleased to hear what you find out.
I got mine from Bedford Sewimg machines...I was told its electronic...and is very much better than the old Singer...but perhaps its carbon after all????
Thanks for this video! I need more slow control on my 327k. I'm wondering if I could do this conversion on that machine. There's nothing wrong with the motor it has apart from there isn't enough speed control.
If there's nothing wrong with the motor,maybe you could,if you know how,wire a new electronic pedal. Problem solved, although you might have already replaced the whole lot. However, this might be a great solution for those who are happy with their motors and just want better, more precise speed control.
Hi Harry! Your video made me buy a mint (black) 201K m2. :-) I'm converting it from a treadle (in a cabinet) to a electrical version using your Amazon-link. Question: What size belt would probably fit? Greetings from THe Netherlands, Erik
Hi Erik, I used one of the generic bands that seem to fit most old domestic Singers with the motor mounted behind the machine and I have had no problems with it...sounds like a very nice machine. Rgds Harry
Hey Harry! I have a Singer 431G. It is working well except it almost impossible to sew in a slow motion, it goes from 0 to 100 very fast. I did open up the Bakelite foot pedal to fix this (some of the carbon discs where missing), but I don't know if it helped much. Could it be something wrong with the motor or should I buy a new foot pedal?
I suspect a new pedal might help, but I am not a mechanic. I found the new motor and pedal bought for my machine gave far more control. I no longer have that machine.
Hy herry i am from Pakistan .. i have also singer 201 k ...but i have lost needls ..m so worry about this..you r really Great efforts for us...Thanks n lotss of love for you💓
Harry Rogers thank you :) I have a 15-91 potted motor direct gear machine and I recently got a 15-90 and I ordered a 150 watts motor. Excited to see the difference between the two
Be careful to adjust the belt tension correctly. Too tight and it will choke the machine. Too loose and you don't get the full benefit of the additional power.
Thank you! I had to replace the motor on my pinnock threadmaster (turns out the new motor is the exact same as yours!) this saved me a LOT of confusion!
I am in NZ and have today scored a machine the same as yours- goes v/well. Can you give me the supplier name of the motor and foot peddle as I would like to get it upgraded. Mine is in prime condition and paid $40 nz dollars.- about $20- thanks- dave
I just have a question. Would the motor and pedal you fitted onto your Singer be compatible with a dual voltage vintage Bernina Record 730 whose original motor specs are 75/32 W and 0,72 Amp, and 45/15 W and 0,54 Amp?
Harry, can you please tell me if, where the belt connects, your new motor turns clockwise or anti-clockwise? I am in New Zealand and my original 1948 201K motor turns anti-clockwise. I want to order the replacement motor set to convert from the existing annoying knee control.
are u still working with singer 133k8.I want to buy a singer cylindrical arm industrial machine.I am learning to make boxing gear and some shoe uppers.Can u recommend me any online dealer in uk from where I can buy.
YDK replacement motor question: can anyone kindly advise if the connector block below the motor bracket is separate from the motor body and could therefore be rewired/re-positioned? Sales photos. do not show this clearly.
Sorry but you may have given some false information about that pedal, just took mine open and it's a rheostat model. Better than the old and worn ones thou.
It will drive the machine, but as I understand it, it is not an industrial machine so presumably it will not take thick materials etc. So is it worth it?
Wanting to upgrade a motor for a Pinnock sewing machine i acquired.Anybody: Is there anything to note about wiring for reverse direction, or will that not be possible?
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Thank you so much for taking the time to put this film together. Extremely helpful - especially your explanation of the lamp writing, as the diagram on the inside of the unit was unclear. The visual of how you did this was clearer. The old Singer 329 I found in a charity shop is now fully functional and rejuvenated!
This was a very good instruction video, with a clear explanation about the benefits of the extra power. On the original Singer motor, this machine was not fit for purpose. With the new differentiated speed control and energy-efficient light bulb, it has a new life as an almost industrial level worktool.
I enjoyed upgrading the machine, but it is unlikely that I would have attempted it without watching your film. And your workshop looks so very cool!
Harry. In six years things have moved on. The perfect upgrade that, so far as I know, no-one is offering, would be a 18-24volt DC motor with foot peddle control. There would a dramatic increase in torque, and given a proprietary step down pully option, many metal vintage machines could be used to sew two layers of oak tanned leather (with the right needle). In the USA Sailrite seem to have come up with exactly that option for the bloody expensive Ultrafeed machine. I reckon a universal DC motor, step-down pulley arrangement could be sold for £75 max. I'm surprised such a solution hasn't popped-up on RUclips. A Pfaff 130-6 (for instance) would be unstoppable as a straight/zigzag portable, without the need for a servo motor on a big table.
I have a Singer 66 from 1948. I plugged it in when I first took receipt of it and it immediately ran - that being said: the wires' insulation near the terminals are gone (it could easily short) and the button within the foot pedal is somehow missing. The plug is also cracked and was being held together with electrical tape.
I've since overhauled the machine itself but I wasn't looking forward to addressing each of the little electronic nuisances - your video was all the convincing I needed. I'm going to pick such a kit up.
Thank you - my shop time will be able to be spent doing more enjoyable things. The practical reality is: although machines such as these outshine most modern equivalents, it's more than fair to say the electronic components are much, much better today. Like you, I'll take the best of both eras.
@Piper Mccoy I gave it a quick enough look over to know it wasn't going to kill me lol. I also have soldered/done a fair bit of circuitry so I knew what I needed to do to remain safe.
So I have replaced the motor & wiring, and it does run happily. But I haven't used it beyond testing lol - I'm in the middle of building a low-bench. I hope to use the Singer 66 soon to sew up a canvas sling for a Tripolina-style chair I have (It currently has this dreadful synthetic fabric).
If you loosen the two screws holding the motor to the metal bracket and the bigger screw nut which holds the bracket to the machine then you can slide the belt over the motor wheel, then slide the motor back into position and tighten the screws, job done.
Harry a huge thank you to you for your videos ❤️ I got my mums old pinnock sewing machine ( I have lost her and my sis gave me the machine at xmas but i only just could bring myself to open it couple weeks ago ) and I have upgraded using the same motor you used and am thrilled.....she taught me to sew on it and I so happy now I habe oiled and new motor its fantastic 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Great
I've just bought one of these Harry, it's great and I'm going to try the same motor upgrade as your video. Thankyou for posting it.
Hope you're doing okay with your health - best wishes.
🙋♂🙋♂
Thanks Colin.
Thank you for sharing the video, Harry. I have just installed the motor for my mum. It works a treat.
Thanks that's great
Harry - Thank you for kindly confirming that the connector block is part of the motor casing rather as I had thought, therefore unsuited to the restoration. Kind regards, Rob.
Hi Harry, I understand the need for a more powerful motor. I believe your original Singer foot pedal is a carbon pile foot petal and not a rheostat and the carbon pile foot controls are fairly easy to service to get them to work correctly and accurately as to speed control.
You do lovely work on your projects, and thank you for posting your videos. Brett
Cleaning and adjustment of the original will restore full control.
Be advised you can no longer bake a batch of muffins now that the LED lamp is installed.☺
Cheers Harry. Just placed my order - direct with the Amazon seller, BSK (Bedford) - slightly cheaper on their own website. I have two to upgrade.
The Singer factory in Brazil makes replacement motors and I don't know why they're not widely distributed,
Because electrical standards are so different from country to country.
Singer is not what it was. You aren’t getting a fifties motor, you’re getting a cruising on name recognition motor. The Amazon motor is fine.
Thank you for sharing this wonderful video. These old machines are made to last more than a lifetime. I have a Neechi Nova and the booklet says. Made to last a lifetime. Blessings and keep up the good work Blessings
Thanks Ramlogan
I’ve just had a look at your channel… my goodness you’ve done some awesome things
Oh thank you!
Great video. I need to replace the motor on my 237 fashion mate. I feel more confident now after seeing this!
Thanks
I just got a decent sewing machine that seems to have no problem going through medium leather but has the same for pedal problem. I wanted to do something just like this, thanks for the video!
That sewing machine makes me remember to my grandmother, she had a Singer too.
Must upgrade mine,have put up wih lack of speed control for long enough.
Thanks for the info
I also did mine, it's a really worth while upgrade . A easy video to follow.
Thanks! Now I’m going to try this on my Pfaff 130
Instructional as always 👍
I’m picking up a Singer 301 tomorrow and will attempt to do the same thing....
Hopefully the motor manufacturer is making a 220V alternative 🙏
Thanks for the insight 😀
Very interesting. I have an industrial sewing machine motor, something like 250W I think. One day when I can do a fixed install of a machine I will hook it up so I have REAL power lol.
You're awesome! I needed to replace the broken lamp on my 201 & your video was super helpful. Thank You!
Hi I know is a couple years ago. But I just got a Singer 224 beautiful machine. But is a UK plug and motor 230 v which unfortunately I can't use in USA. So I have to get a new motor and pedal. I'm new to sewing machines. I see some motor that are clock wise but I don't know if that's what I need.
Hi Harry. Thank you for the demo! I have purchased the same motor and now am having some difficulty connecting the lamp. My lamp has 3 cables but on looking at the motor housing I have only 2 places to connect them. Can I please have a pic of yours If possible
I am sorry but I sold that machine.
Thank you sooooo very much for this video! My wires is totally rotten on my Singer 201K and I have had so much trouble figuring out how to solve this problem with almost no knowledge in electricy. Now I know what to do! Will order this kit right away. I appreciate that is posible to go slow with this pedal. I thought that you had to buy a servo motor to get that slow motion. Do you know how many W this motor is? The cable to the lamp is bad as well so I need to exchange it but I guess that will not be a problem. Just buy some 2-wire 2x1.5 mm2 cable I guess?
What belt do you recommend? I can see the orange belt does not fit.
I've just carried out this upgrade on my old 237 as it's old motor had given up. Thank you Harry for your fantastic videos, it made the process really simple, especially the wiring of the light and knowing where to find the elusive wiring diagram 😀. Led bulb ordered too.
That's great Pete...thanks.
Hey Harry, just wondering if you have an update on the motor? How is it holding up after three years later? I'm considering upgrading for the added control especially at slower speeds. Great video by the way! Thanks for providing this information for us all.
Hi I have sold this machine, but it all seemed good.
I tell ya, you can be very brave at times. Just the thought of replacing the motor albeit underpowered would have me a bit apprehensive with a classic like that machine. You did an exceptional job explaining it (as usual). thank you!
Thanks.
excellent video and have bought and installed the new motor etc. Can you assist with my fault the shuttle system jams up and it did this before the new motor etc. I have cleaned and oiled 100% so at a loss as to a fix shame its such a grand machine and this one ie pristine still thanks.
Hello Harry. Many thanks for all your videos. Since the first lockdown you and Jo Heard have taught me how to work with leather. Thank you!
I have just bought a 201k Mk2 for stitching linings and pockets for my bags - lovely machine.
I am about to buy a YDK replacement motor for mine. My question is. You fitted a 90w motor to yours but I see YDK also do 120w motor. Would this be suitable for the machine in that it could it be too powerful or not have the slow speed needed for precise stitching as you demonstrated?
Many thanks once again and just to finish. I started looking at your videos because I fancied making a leather belt for myself. To date I have made 40 belts and 35 bags - see what you started!
Kind regards and best wishes. David
Thanks David, that's great to hear. I was not aware of the 120w motor it's probably best to have a chat with the supplier....in principle it sounds good. Very well done with all those belts and bags as well!
W
@@harryrogers Thank you Harry. I will contact them. All the best David
@@harryrogers Hello Harry. An update on the YDK 120 watt motor. I have now bought and fitted this to my 201k and it works like a dream. The poor old original motor really struggled, whereas the extra torque of the replacement gives me far more control sewing leather edgings to my lining pockets. Many thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Keep the videos coming, they are great. Best regards. David
@@davidbalchin3921 That is very good to hear, thanks David.
@@davidbalchin3921 Hi David, was hoping you could provide the link to motor you purchased? I have been wanting to update my Singer mostly to sew bags and sounds like this worked well for you!
Thanks for this. Really useful instructions. Just been looking at buying this machine & I will probably have to do exactly this. Great advice.
did ya do this?
Another reason is just for the fun of it. I would like to get a 201 and put it into a table with a small 350 watt servo motor (disturbed maniacal laughter in the back ground). All the best.
Hi Harry I have a singer 252 fashion mate and the top tension doesn’t want to give me a nice sew the bobbin tension looks great I believe I need a new tension spring as you mentioned I ordered one but I don’t know how to get the knob off to replace the old one. It doesn’t have the screw like yours it’s covered my a knob . I hope you can help me .. Thank you..Lolly
Sorry I do not know..but look for online manuals...even for similar machines...such as this www.fixya.com/support/t17268952-replace_tension_assembly_singer_242
Thank you
Thank you Harry. Great clear video well presented.
thank you for your good, clever videos . I've an 1897 singer15 model and looking your video it sews ! I bouth a chinese motor ( very cheap). It work good, sew well but too TOO fast. Do you think it is a problem with the reostat ? Shall I change the food pedal controller with better one ? The motor works at 220 volt. If yes could kindly show in Amazon ? Thank, thank from Italy and Merry XMas
I don't really know, is it for the correct voltage for your region? Happy Christmas to you.
@@harryrogers voltage is ok . The speed can grow up, but starts too fast. Bye bye and see you sono on youtube
I have a Belvedere Adler 190. Mr. Rogers, you think I can convert that to a leather sewing machine with this upgrade you show or have to go to a servo motor? Thank you for your videos.
Hello love your video.... I have recently inherited an old singer 306...... My question is.... Will it fit on that machine.... Regards Tina Simonsen 🇩🇰
I think so, as it's generic to most old BAK motorised Singers, but I would check with the shop to be sure.
Hi Harry may I know from where would I get this motor?
Hi BSK Ltd Bedford...also on Amazon uk
Hello Harry, I enjoyed watching your video and it has given me some thoughts to possibly replacing all the motors on my restoration machines, although the price for each one would now be £60. One question regarding your hydraulic press in the back of your shots. Did you construct it yourself or was it a purchase? Thanks.
Hello Ken...wow that's gone up a lot in price...the red press is a Sealy garage press that I adapted, it worked fine but was slow for production work.
@@harryrogers Hello again Harry, thank you for this information, could I ask one other thing please? Where did you buy your metal precession oiler (click type) you used in your video?
Hi I see when you did the up grade on the motor the new motor came with a pully wheel how can I remove the pully on my 201k 1957 brown and cream model as the screw in the pully is removed pully won't move motor casing brakalite any advise would be helpful
Michael
Do the electronically controlled motors maintain more torque at lower speeds than the old motor? Or is the motor basically the same, just with better speed control?
Mr. Rogers. I have a vintage Singer sewing machine model 263C that had a 80 watts motor. I need to change it and in my country I found a 100 watts motor. Not much avalaible these days...I am not sure if the 100 watts motor will work on the machine as normal, or it will be working too fast.. Please help me out. Regards from Chile South America
I have not a clue really, but I guess it would be OK. As you may be on different voltage I would ask at a shop, or find someone who does know...sorry not to be more helpful.
Thank you Sir. We are on 220 voltage. I will keep asking, not much people around to ask, maybe at my country capital I will may have an answer.
I enjoyed you video so much.
I would like to upgrade my 201 to an electric motor like yours, but I have a potted motor attached to mine. If I remove the potted motor, the bobbin winding is attached to it. How can I upgrade or how do I add back the bobbin winder mechanism back onto the handwheel.? Please shed a light on this issue.
I was wondering if you could help me I need to replace my motor grease wicks I was wondering if you know where I could get them from in UK thanks
Your machine is so beautiful ! After seeing your video i want to upgrade my mom's machine, i have a small question, the current actually goes to the bulb without the foot control pressing ??? counter intuitive isn't it ??
Hi I think it's so that you can line the fabric up prior to stitching.
Is it at all possible to replace a Singer 401a motor with one that works with European power? (60Hz 110V -> 50Hz 240V)
Hi, I just been given my third old sewing machine to restore. It's a Jones CBD. The original motor was removed and replaced with a Singer motor, pedal and light. The original wire from inside the machine was disconnect but is still there. The machine only runs when you switch the light on! Can a new motor be connected to the old wires or are all new motors sealed? Wonder if you or someone could help please
Thank you for the video. I bought the same motor on the ebay two years ago, belt did not fit as well, foot pedal unfortunately gets hot like the old ones do, but overall it was worth upgrading, it is a bit risky to use motor which is 60 years old.
I had the eBay seller replace that motor 3 times before I got one that worked.
hahaha life is risky, get used to it. If you want to buy robust vintage gear get the risk and don't cry. You better ask electrican to refurbish and rewire your old Singer motor. Buying fatal quality chinesse "safe" replacement erzac engine doesn't solve your safety problem, you know? hahaha
Just replaced the motor. Thanks a lot
Excellent - thanks very much
Hello,
Thank you for a useful video. I have a Singer 99k. Will this upgrade be suitable for this model?, as the power to the foot pedal and motor is wired directly into the machine?
Hi I am sorry but I don't know...probably not?
What is the thread bolt size on the machine 1/4 NC bolt is not a tight fit, bit loose .I have a motor and bracket from the donor machine
The problem you've got with your old "rheostat" pedal, is not the carbon pile rheostat itself but rather the associated capacitors.
The original capacitors are almost certainly "gone" and this causes, exactly the problem you are experiencing.
Change these out for new and problem solved.
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PS is quite an easy job but does involve soldering.
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Thanks again for this video. My machine now has so much more control!! One question though. I'm finding I have to run the upper thread tension at 9 to get a hf decent stitch. The bottom thread just bunches up otherwise. I'm guessing the bobbin tension is out. Any ideas on how to adjust it?
Sorry but I am not familiar with that set up, perhaps someone here can help.
Harry, I have been looking to fit an electronic pedal to my Singer 306K which is fitted with a YDK 90w motor but I cannot find anyone selling them, all the ones I have seen on eBay etc are the one carbon disc type design. Are you able to confirm yours is electronic because it looks exactly like my existing one which I am presuming came with the motor. I am a bit confused being that no one I have found describes the replacement YDK Motor/Pedal kit as having an electronic pedal.Have you got a photo of the inside of your pedal with the bottom cover removed. My one seems to have very poor low speed control, it is too sensitive.The interior of the YDK foot control has the 2 carbon disc areas etc just like an old Singer one, these are mounted in a white ceramic block. I would be pleased to hear what you find out.
I got mine from Bedford Sewimg machines...I was told its electronic...and is very much better than the old Singer...but perhaps its carbon after all????
Good Man !!!!!
Another very interesting video. Nice machine.
How well has this motor lasted over the years?
I have sold the machine...it seemed well made.
Thanks for this video! I need more slow control on my 327k. I'm wondering if I could do this conversion on that machine. There's nothing wrong with the motor it has apart from there isn't enough speed control.
If there's nothing wrong with the motor,maybe you could,if you know how,wire a new electronic pedal. Problem solved, although you might have already replaced the whole lot. However, this might be a great solution for those who are happy with their motors and just want better, more precise speed control.
I think better than pretty good fantastic. happy trails
Hi Harry! Your video made me buy a mint (black) 201K m2. :-) I'm converting it from a treadle (in a cabinet) to a electrical version using your Amazon-link. Question: What size belt would probably fit? Greetings from THe Netherlands, Erik
Hi Erik, I used one of the generic bands that seem to fit most old domestic Singers with the motor mounted behind the machine and I have had no problems with it...sounds like a very nice machine. Rgds Harry
Thank you ❤
Harry!
What have you done with your old pedal?
Do you want to sell it ?
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Hey Harry! I have a Singer 431G. It is working well except it almost impossible to sew in a slow motion, it goes from 0 to 100 very fast. I did open up the Bakelite foot pedal to fix this (some of the carbon discs where missing), but I don't know if it helped much. Could it be something wrong with the motor or should I buy a new foot pedal?
I suspect a new pedal might help, but I am not a mechanic. I found the new motor and pedal bought for my machine gave far more control. I no longer have that machine.
@@harryrogers Thank you! I think so too. I will give it a try. :)
Hy herry i am from Pakistan .. i have also singer 201 k ...but i have lost needls ..m so worry about this..you r really Great efforts for us...Thanks n lotss of love for you💓
Please make a same video for singer 185 k
Hello Harry, I know you posted this a while ago, but are you still happy with it? I was thinking of doing the same upgrade. Thanks . All the best. T
It worked very well...I have since sold the machine.
Im curious, does more power mean a stronger machine in its punch through heavy material or faster in terms of stitches per minute.
More punching power.
Harry Rogers thank you :) I have a 15-91 potted motor direct gear machine and I recently got a 15-90 and I ordered a 150 watts motor. Excited to see the difference between the two
Be careful to adjust the belt tension correctly. Too tight and it will choke the machine. Too loose and you don't get the full benefit of the additional power.
Thank you! I had to replace the motor on my pinnock threadmaster (turns out the new motor is the exact same as yours!) this saved me a LOT of confusion!
Hi Harry , can you advise what maximum leather thickness this seeing machine can handle , does it pinch through veg tan
Harry been watching your vids ,you are amazing,i have learnt alot a big thank you ,keep doing it
Mark Daniels Thanks Mark
I am in NZ and have today scored a machine the same as yours- goes v/well. Can you give me the supplier name of the motor and foot peddle as I would like to get it upgraded. Mine is in prime condition and paid $40 nz dollars.- about $20- thanks- dave
Great...and please see the links in the description...thanks.
A good one Harry 👍👍👍👍
The belt is for a vintage Janome.
I just have a question. Would the motor and pedal you fitted onto your Singer be compatible with a dual voltage vintage Bernina Record 730 whose original motor specs are 75/32 W and 0,72 Amp, and 45/15 W and 0,54 Amp?
I am sorry I do not know.
Thank you for the info and demonstration very cool RUclips channel
Harry, can you please tell me if, where the belt connects, your new motor turns clockwise or anti-clockwise? I am in New Zealand and my original 1948 201K motor turns anti-clockwise. I want to order the replacement motor set to convert from the existing annoying knee control.
Mine is anti clockwise.....most are as thats the way domestic machines usually work...but I know some are not, so best to ask the vendor.
Harry Rogers I took a punt and ordered one from China on ebay. Metal black bolt on motor and foot control delivered for $36NZ. Works perfectly.
Hi harry, can you tell me what is carbon spring.
Great videos Harry, you made me start making small leather work :)
What is a good leather tool webshop in the uk?
Cheers Joës
joeselsbeth Hi Joe's.. .that's great. The Identity Store is worth looking at online...always very helpful. I buy some tools off EBay as well.
Harry Rogers thanks :)
Does your sewing machine motor has 220 volts?
Very helpful, thank you.
Perhaps if you had of bolted the motor slightly higher the belt would have sitted?
are u still working with singer 133k8.I want to buy a singer cylindrical arm industrial machine.I am learning to make boxing gear and some shoe uppers.Can u recommend me any online dealer in uk from where I can buy.
Afra khan Mayana Hi no I no longer have that machine. I have bought from Tysew Industrial Sewing and found them helpful.
YDK replacement motor question: can anyone kindly advise if the connector block below the motor bracket is separate from the motor body and could therefore be rewired/re-positioned? Sales photos. do not show this clearly.
Hi Robert - sorry I no longer have this machine...freeze the video at 4.07.....looks like its part of the body.
Do you have to lower the feed dog to move so freely?
I did not on this one...I do on my Oekaki for free motion embroidery though.
@@harryrogers Awesome. Thank you for the quick reply.
I did the same conversion and my new belt was too small too !!!.
Sorry but you may have given some false information about that pedal, just took mine open and it's a rheostat model. Better than the old and worn ones thou.
Can a Pffaff 130 be upgraded to a industrial servo motor?
It will drive the machine, but as I understand it, it is not an industrial machine so presumably it will not take thick materials etc. So is it worth it?
Does it matter the wattage
Thanks so much for this video :-)
could I put a motor onto a singer sewing machine, that has not had a motor before??
Yes you usually can.
Harry is this machine good for leather
It will handle very light leather for making things...not ideal, but gets you started.
Wanting to upgrade a motor for a Pinnock sewing machine i acquired.Anybody: Is there anything to note about wiring for reverse direction, or will that not be possible?
What motor is that? Can you tell me the specs?
Please can you tell me the size of the belts this machine use. please
Hi I just used a flexible band ...universal for machines like this.
Harry Rogers did you buy it on AliExpress ?
it should be noted, the YDK foot pedal is NOT electronic , it's a carbon pile, same tyoe as the Singer pedal .. !!
Hello I have the Singer 320K do you feel this will work for this
I don't see why not if your motor is a standard singer motor for domestic machines....Bedford Sewing Machines UK can advise.
@@harryrogers Thank you do they have a phone number
@@grahammartin6140 web?
Is it 220V?
Mine was as it's UK standard here.
box opening at 2:20