The rollers from a discarded running track on it's way to the land fill given a second chance at life; an environmentally friendly stroke of genius! You the man!
Interesting take on the wax. I work in the window industry, we use loads of CRL products, and the exact tube of wax you use goes with me every day i work. Its great for wood saws on aluminum, i have tried it a couple of times on steel without feeling it was necessary. I'll have to give it another shot.
Another quick way to square for 90 and 45 is take the speed square and place it in the groove the blade goes through. Flip it over and you have 45. Slide the backstop til its flat against the square.
I haven't made one yet, but I was thinking that a 45° jig (or any other angle) that slid into the saw with a piece that would keep it in place would allow the angle cut to be made without moving your 180° miter. Slip it in place, clamp the material, and make the angle cut. If you extended it into the cut zone, then use the blade to cut it off, it would give you a guide to exactly where the blade will cut the material. Love the table and laser.
That is a great idea too! My only thought would be that it might reduce the capacity of the vise and in turn, the maximum size material that you can cut with the saw. I don’t know for sure though. I like your idea though!😁👍
@@PranaTech So I did make this jig with the 45° yesterday. You can slide it left or right as much as needed before clamping it. The pivot on my miter is the restriction point for the left side of material and the threaded clamp would have to come off for wide pieces, but that is true when just using the miter as well. This is similar to using a speed square except I built it out of 2x2x1/4 angle iron that clamps easily and will also be used to weld things together at 45° and 90°.
Very good. Initially I thought you bought yourself a purpose built saw stand. You made it. Nicely made I must say, I'm impressed. I have seen carpenters build saw stands with the section where the saw sits dropped so the work piece is level with the cutting platform. I built a work table lower than my other benches for that very reason also. Mind you this is for cutting wood. At the moment I have not got a cold cut chop saw. I have cordless cold cut circular saws. I have been wanting to build a template so I could cut square and angle joints. I built a simple template which by a fluke works exceptionally well for cutting rectangular hollow section and square hollow section. The design of the circular saw template I plan on building will sit on the side of the bench and move up and down to suit the height of the cutting material. The saw will sit on a plate with a guide cutting square or on angle. Since the saw will sit on a plate, it will sit flat and enter the work piece so not having to tilt the saw whilst cutting through material. Thankyou for uploading video and showing off your nice design workbench. You are an engineer.
Hi Ronald! Thanks for your very kind comments! I really appreciate them! It sounds like you have a great setup too! I’ve been seriously considering getting a cold cut circular saw too. There are times when I need to break down a large sheet of steel and it would be really handy. I do like the idea of the dropped section for the saw in the saw stand. My problem was that I also use the stand for my compound miter saw when I’m cutting aluminum and the two saws have different heights so I decided to just make it flat. I’m about to make an upgrade to the saw stand though. I’m going to make the rollers adjustable so they will work with both saws. I’m also going to make an adjustable work stop so I can cut many pieces the same length. Glad you liked the video. Have fun! Don😊👍
@@PranaTech That's great. I'm impressed. I would say you will make a brilliant job. If ever you post it, I will look forward to seeing it. I will look at channeling steel plate in an arch that can cater to adjust angles. Thank you for the reply.
Hi, following your suggestions I bought a few laser diodes and the aluminum holder but I'm afraid I might fry the diodes by just connecting them directly to the AA batteries, I have seen people recommend some sort of current regulating circuit but I would prefer not to have to make one of those. Are you positive the batteries alone will make it work without any additional circuit? They're rated for 3 volts. Thanks a lot for the video, it's really great I formation that will help many.
Good morning Alberto! I would not worry at all about running AA batteries. I am running mine with 18650 lithium ion batteries and they are 4.2v fully charged and 3.7 volts for most of the discharge. I’ve been doing this since I made the video and I’ve never burned out my original laser. 😁👍
Question? Why not mount the laser and its mount directly to the saw base? Why the aluminum angle and raising it up? The laser seems to go high enough. Thanks and great video
Hi there! I just used a switched 18650 battery box that I found on eBay like this one.www.ebay.com/itm/363410847295?hash=item549cf9763f:g:FAgAAOSwBjxgrVQV If you use the two cell version you need to run a jumper wire across the open unused cell as you only want the voltage from one 18650 battery. You could use two batteries but you would need to rewire the box so the batteries are in parallel and not series. No resistor needed 😁👍
Good video, good tips. I wish you would point out the importance of matching the metal cutting blade to the RPM of the saw. Initially I thought an abrasive blade was interchangeable for a metal cutting blade. My Milwaukee saw runs at 3,600 RPM. The Diablo blade I bought is low RPM (1,800) so my saw eventually burned it up. Most of the chop saws available at the big box stores are high RPM saws. Not all chop saws are designed to run metal cutting blades and the saw has to be carefully selected.
Great tips!!! Gonna use them! I think just a couple of tack welds is sufficient for the miter gauges...no need to fully weld and risk distortion and have to remake.
Thanks for the tips. Wondering what your thoughts are regarding adjusting the material for a 45 degree miter for example: if the base of the saw is stationary, then it requires the material to move off of your infeed rollers and floating out in space requiring further support. how about building the saw on top of a lazy susan type rotational device so saw angle moves to metal rather than metal moving to stationary saw? This would be avoidable by just purchasing a metal compound miter saw, but I dont think they make one with this HP or cutting capacity.... if they do , which one is recommended?
Hi Mathew, that’s a great idea with the rotating base! I’m going to look at doing that on my stand if I can figure out the bearings without adding 50 pounds to the stand. I’m not sure if there is a portable miter dry cut saw out there yet. There are plenty of big commercial dry cut saws with the miter feature but they start at $1600 to $3500.
hi there Juniverse! Well my next project is going to be a Zen garden bell with a Tori stand. After that I'm going to make an Aircrete foam generator and make an aircrete raised garden bed with it. Thank you for your interest! Peace!🙏
@@PranaTech great tips - again thanks for sharing - not sure that the difference was so evident with the wax although its probably evident in the shop. thanks again
Hi Mark, wow that is quite a difference in price! The good news is that it lasts a long time and really does extend the life of the blades if you apply it every few cuts. I also have found that not pressing to aggressively on the blade coupled with the lubricant helps as well. 😊👍
@@PranaTech Agree. I now use it every few cuts. It makes a big difference especially for me as I bought a relatively cheap cold saw and I suspect the blade is not of best quality. Thank you for the video and advice. It is much appreciated.
Hi. Im trying to get a little fabricating side gig going but im having trouble finding steel at a reasonable price. Do you have any suggestions on where to find a good supplier? Im 20 miles from chicago if that helps your reply. Thank you!
Hi David! steel is crazy priced right now. I buy a lot of stuff out of the remnant bins at my local suppliers because they sell them cheaper and by the pound. I also buy stuff off Craigslist when I can find it for good prices. 👍😀
@@PranaTech Thank you very much for the quick reply. I was watching your video because im trying to choose equipment and prices. You have the cool guy cold saw dont you? 😎. Im not rushing into anything. Im doing a lot of research right now. I’ve been praying about if i should try starting up a small business at home to start off. After i prayed i sold my drums that i havent played for $2000. Lol. So its like i got a quick answer to that prayer. But the cost of steel seems to be making everything i want to build to sell way too expensive. There is an alro steel not too far from my house. It says on their website that they have a retail shop in their building. I think that may be my best bet. I hope you are doing well for yourself in these uncertain times. Thank you again Dave
Hi Dave! Yeah this saw is kinda hard to find. There are a few good saws out there like it that are quality like the evolution and the fein “slugger”. You can fabricate with a minimum of tools it just takes more time. If you can do decent work, there will always be a market for you. A lot of guys here in Tucson where I live just put ads on Craigslist that they can build gates and weld and they get quite a bit of work. A lot of people don’t have the skills to build anything anymore so people like you will always have value! Just put yourself out there and the people will find you. 👍😀Don
Hi Tomas, this saw is a Rigid 614. It’s a fairly expensive saw but will last the rest of your life! Comparable saws that are a little cheaper are the Fein Slugger and the Evolution 380 if your budget is a little lower. Let me know if you need any other information. 😁👍
Hi John, the difference is that the cold saw runs at 1200 to 1400 rpm and uses a carbide blade and has a more rigid spindle to handle the heavier loads of the carbide blade. 😁👍
Nice saw, but I don't see the justification for a $979 price tag just because it has an improved clamping device on the rear. Is the standard clamping most saws have really that much inferior to this one? What does this one provide that is so much better? Each to their own, of course, and I know your video wasn't about recommedning this saw. I'm just wondering where the big price tag is derived from.
I can totally understand your point of view. When I purchased this saw, I got it for $650 new on eBay. I don’t know if occasional use of a cold saw would justify the current price tag. For me, I went through two lesser saws by popular brands and the vises flexed enough and were so inaccurate that I struggled to make repeatable on larger steel square tubing like 3-4”. It was very frustrating when you measure accurately and your cuts are not. This saw makes me money in my welding business and has performed flawlessly since the day I bought it many years ago. It also has a lifetime warranty which is pretty rare these days. If I wasn’t making money with this saw, I would probably have gone with the Evolution or the Fein slugger. 👍😊
hey buddy if you just run the clamp back a bunch you can lay your speed square in there and adjust your vice to exactly 45 deg...I do it all the time on first try...just sayin
You should set your vice up further forward so that the blade is cutting on the downward spin. If you set it up like the video, it will cut the last part of the material on the upward spin. This can be dangerous as the blade can pull the work out of the vice and throw it at your face!
Yes, you could do that. Although the bed of the saw receives constant abuse from dragging the steel across it so who knows how long that marking will last. Also, you are relying on your eyes to judge the alignment in relation to the marking. My method gives you an instant setup that is perfect every time and I know it is at a perfect 45. 😁👍
can you really make a lot of cut before sending the saw to be sharpened because i tried a blade at 4200 rpm on my chop saw 3500rpm and its cut not long 7-8 cut and finished cutting more, then with a real chop saw low rpm I hope to do better because its scares me a little to spend again for nothing I would like its cut long thank you.
Hi Rick, yes I usually get hundreds of cuts out of my blades before they need replacing. These blades need to be run at 1200 to 1400 RPM. Any more and the carbide teeth will just blow right off the blade and it will be ruined very quickly. If you get a low rpm cold saw you will be very happy with how long the blades last if you cut slow and steady with it. Hope this helps! 👍😁Don
jesus, after you get the 45 where u want it, take an awl and scratch a line where the fence meets the base, no welding, no wasted steel, and its on the saw where u need it
Hi Reeferdog, that’s a great idea! My problem is that it’s hard to get the rear fence to line up each time with the scribed line because these cold saw vise’s are so sloppy. You line it up with the scribed line and when you tighten down the pivot screw, the back fence slides one way or another and you don’t get a 45 degree cut. Good idea though!👍😀
Hi There! I bought it off a seller on eBay but they do sell them on Amazon as well. I’ve owned a couple of the cheaper ones and was never happy with the vise closure mechanism and could never get very good accuracy like I wanted. This saw is amazing and I would definitely recommend it. It is a model 614. 😊👍
Hi Brian, thanks for the comment! There seems to be a lot of confusion out there with regards to the naming of these saws. Some people call them cold saws because the heat from the cut goes into the chips instead of the workpiece, hence the lack of heat in the steel when finished cutting. I’ll call it a dry cut saw from now on though. Thanks!😁👍
Could tell absolutely no difference between the wax cut and no wax cut. And I'm sorry that's not a cold saw that's just a carbide chop saw. Cold saw is a whole different animal.
The rollers from a discarded running track on it's way to the land fill given a second chance at life; an environmentally friendly stroke of genius!
You the man!
Thank you George! I really appreciate your kind words! 🙏😀Don
Awesome trix and great table and video. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Thank you for your kind comment Matt! I really appreciate it! 😊🙏
Excellent !! I need to make a folding table.. Awesome!
Thanks Tony! 👍😊
*Easy to set up **MyBest.Tools** Cuts like a dream. Love the portability of the saw.*
Thanks!😁👍
All great tips. I especially like the line laser.
Thanks Michele! I appreciate your kind words! 🙏😁
That was a great Video. Like your Table
Thank you! And thank you for your kind words! 😊🙏
Interesting take on the wax. I work in the window industry, we use loads of CRL products, and the exact tube of wax you use goes with me every day i work. Its great for wood saws on aluminum, i have tried it a couple of times on steel without feeling it was necessary. I'll have to give it another shot.
I use it on aluminum with my wood blades as well! On steel, I found that Irish spring soap 🧼 works better and is way cheaper than the Wax! 👍😊
Liked your laser mod!! Thx.
Thank you!🙏😊
The table is Nice and simple design and foldable !!
Thank you Jacob! 👍😁
Another quick way to square for 90 and 45 is take the speed square and place it in the groove the blade goes through. Flip it over and you have 45. Slide the backstop til its flat against the square.
That is what I do and it is the easiest way to get consistent cuts.
Yep, he was making it way too hard!
As long as your blade is true to the groove
Very interesting tips, thanks!
Thank you Alberto! 🙏😊
Great for light use
Good video. Love the wax m going to try it angle grinder and concrete cutting saw
I haven't made one yet, but I was thinking that a 45° jig (or any other angle) that slid into the saw with a piece that would keep it in place would allow the angle cut to be made without moving your 180° miter. Slip it in place, clamp the material, and make the angle cut. If you extended it into the cut zone, then use the blade to cut it off, it would give you a guide to exactly where the blade will cut the material. Love the table and laser.
That is a great idea too! My only thought would be that it might reduce the capacity of the vise and in turn, the maximum size material that you can cut with the saw. I don’t know for sure though. I like your idea though!😁👍
@@PranaTech So I did make this jig with the 45° yesterday. You can slide it left or right as much as needed before clamping it. The pivot on my miter is the restriction point for the left side of material and the threaded clamp would have to come off for wide pieces, but that is true when just using the miter as well. This is similar to using a speed square except I built it out of 2x2x1/4 angle iron that clamps easily and will also be used to weld things together at 45° and 90°.
Thanks a lot! I was just about to make the transition from a circular abrasive saw to a dry cut saw, and your advice was very useful to me! Thank you!
Thank you Ruben for your nice comments! Glad it was helpful! 😀👍
Mobilephone chargers have the right voltage for these kinds of lasers. Thanks for the Tip! Looking forward to get mine shipped :)
Hey, that’s a great idea! Thanks!😁👍
Great tip
Great video, thanx
Thanks Brian! 👍😊
Very good. Initially I thought you bought yourself a purpose built saw stand. You made it. Nicely made I must say, I'm impressed. I have seen carpenters build saw stands with the section where the saw sits dropped so the work piece is level with the cutting platform. I built a work table lower than my other benches for that very reason also. Mind you this is for cutting wood. At the moment I have not got a cold cut chop saw. I have cordless cold cut circular saws. I have been wanting to build a template so I could cut square and angle joints. I built a simple template which by a fluke works exceptionally well for cutting rectangular hollow section and square hollow section. The design of the circular saw template I plan on building will sit on the side of the bench and move up and down to suit the height of the cutting material. The saw will sit on a plate with a guide cutting square or on angle. Since the saw will sit on a plate, it will sit flat and enter the work piece so not having to tilt the saw whilst cutting through material. Thankyou for uploading video and showing off your nice design workbench. You are an engineer.
Hi Ronald! Thanks for your very kind comments! I really appreciate them! It sounds like you have a great setup too! I’ve been seriously considering getting a cold cut circular saw too. There are times when I need to break down a large sheet of steel and it would be really handy. I do like the idea of the dropped section for the saw in the saw stand. My problem was that I also use the stand for my compound miter saw when I’m cutting aluminum and the two saws have different heights so I decided to just make it flat. I’m about to make an upgrade to the saw stand though. I’m going to make the rollers adjustable so they will work with both saws. I’m also going to make an adjustable work stop so I can cut many pieces the same length. Glad you liked the video. Have fun! Don😊👍
@@PranaTech That's great. I'm impressed. I would say you will make a brilliant job. If ever you post it, I will look forward to seeing it. I will look at channeling steel plate in an arch that can cater to adjust angles. Thank you for the reply.
That’s a great idea! I would like to see that when you get it done.😊👍
Great video, thanks for sharing. Cheers
Thank you for your kind words my friend! 🙏😊
Very good tips thanks I'll apply them
Thanks Gary! I appreciate your kind comment! 👍😁
Thanks for the tips. How often should the blade be waxed?
I do it about every 5-8 cuts depending on the thickness of the material.👍😁
Hi, following your suggestions I bought a few laser diodes and the aluminum holder but I'm afraid I might fry the diodes by just connecting them directly to the AA batteries, I have seen people recommend some sort of current regulating circuit but I would prefer not to have to make one of those. Are you positive the batteries alone will make it work without any additional circuit? They're rated for 3 volts. Thanks a lot for the video, it's really great I formation that will help many.
Good morning Alberto! I would not worry at all about running AA batteries. I am running mine with 18650 lithium ion batteries and they are 4.2v fully charged and 3.7 volts for most of the discharge. I’ve been doing this since I made the video and I’ve never burned out my original laser. 😁👍
@@PranaTech thank you so much, I will try it!
You are very welcome! 😊🙏
Great Video, Thanks for Sharing !
Hi Stanley! Thank you so much for your kind comment! 🙏😊
Excellent idea for angle alignment. ....one of those its right there in front of your nose but never saw it .
Thank you Darcy! 👍😁
Question? Why not mount the laser and its mount directly to the saw base? Why the aluminum angle and raising it up? The laser seems to go high enough. Thanks and great video
Hi Jesse! I raised it up so it would be able to go across the top of flat plate when it is laying down on the base. 😁👍
@@PranaTech makes sense thanks. will follow your lead already ordered the parts
@@PranaTech How did you wire the laser to the 18650 battery? Do you need to wire in a resistor or anything? Thanks
Hi there! I just used a switched 18650 battery box that I found on eBay like this one.www.ebay.com/itm/363410847295?hash=item549cf9763f:g:FAgAAOSwBjxgrVQV If you use the two cell version you need to run a jumper wire across the open unused cell as you only want the voltage from one 18650 battery. You could use two batteries but you would need to rewire the box so the batteries are in parallel and not series. No resistor needed 😁👍
@@PranaTech Thank you!
Miter saw stands work great with chop saws too.
Good video, good tips. I wish you would point out the importance of matching the metal cutting blade to the RPM of the saw. Initially I thought an abrasive blade was interchangeable for a metal cutting blade. My Milwaukee saw runs at 3,600 RPM. The Diablo blade I bought is low RPM (1,800) so my saw eventually burned it up. Most of the chop saws available at the big box stores are high RPM saws. Not all chop saws are designed to run metal cutting blades and the saw has to be carefully selected.
Very good points George! Thank you for your comments. 👍😀Don
I found a quick spray of trefolex as the blades spinning before the cut doubles the blade life
Hey, thank you for the tip Mathew! I’m always looking for better methods. I’ll try some of that and see how it compares to the wax.👍😀Don
Awesome tips. Thank you.
Thank you for the nice comment!
Great Tips. I really like the foldable table. Thanks!
Hi Robert! Thank you for the great comment! I appreciate it very much! 😀👍Don
Great tips!!! Gonna use them! I think just a couple of tack welds is sufficient for the miter gauges...no need to fully weld and risk distortion and have to remake.
Thank you for your kind words! I appreciate that. Yes you are right about just tacking would be plenty for this application to prevent any warpage. 😁👍
Very good!
Thank you!🙏😀
Excellent your video, buddy, greetings from Colombia
Gracias Daniel! Bienvenido a mi canal! 👍😀
Do you think I could use regular paraffin wax for the blade? would it catch on fire? Thanks!
Brilliant!
Thank you!🙏😊
Thanks for the tips. Wondering what your thoughts are regarding adjusting the material for a 45 degree miter for example: if the base of the saw is stationary, then it requires the material to move off of your infeed rollers and floating out in space requiring further support. how about building the saw on top of a lazy susan type rotational device so saw angle moves to metal rather than metal moving to stationary saw? This would be avoidable by just purchasing a metal compound miter saw, but I dont think they make one with this HP or cutting capacity.... if they do , which one is recommended?
Hi Mathew, that’s a great idea with the rotating base! I’m going to look at doing that on my stand if I can figure out the bearings without adding 50 pounds to the stand. I’m not sure if there is a portable miter dry cut saw out there yet. There are plenty of big commercial dry cut saws with the miter feature but they start at $1600 to $3500.
Interesting. Thank you. What are some of your upcoming projects?
hi there Juniverse! Well my next project is going to be a Zen garden bell with a Tori stand. After that I'm going to make an Aircrete foam generator and make an aircrete raised garden bed with it. Thank you for your interest! Peace!🙏
@@PranaTech Whoa! Really looking forward to the Zen bell! Thank you.
@@PranaTech great tips - again thanks for sharing - not sure that the difference was so evident with the wax although its probably evident in the shop. thanks again
rollers good ideas
How about beeswax? I have quite a bit of unused beeswax lying around. I'll give it a try.
Hi Lance! Yes, beeswax works great too. I think the commercial version just has some lube added, but it definitely does work.😊👍
You don't have a problem running the 1800RPM blade at 3900RPM? Or are us running a router/motor speed controller?
Hi Jeff, my saw is a Rigid 614 and it is a dry cut saw that is meant to run carbide blades. It runs at 1300 RPM. 😊👍
I went and bought the same lube stick after watching your video. $19-20 where you are, $40+ where I am but if it extends the life then worth it.
Hi Mark, wow that is quite a difference in price! The good news is that it lasts a long time and really does extend the life of the blades if you apply it every few cuts. I also have found that not pressing to aggressively on the blade coupled with the lubricant helps as well. 😊👍
@@PranaTech Agree. I now use it every few cuts. It makes a big difference especially for me as I bought a relatively cheap cold saw and I suspect the blade is not of best quality. Thank you for the video and advice. It is much appreciated.
I’m glad it helped 😊👍
Great! What brand is the saw?
Hi Danny, it’s a Rigid brand saw. But the tips will work with just about any brand cold saw.😀👍
Prana-Tech Thank you!
@@PranaTech RIDGID
What is your saw and blade rpm
Hi Barny! My saw is a Rigid 614 and it runs at 1300 rpm. 😀👍
Awesome 👏
Thank you!🙏😁👍
Hi. Im trying to get a little fabricating side gig going but im having trouble finding steel at a reasonable price.
Do you have any suggestions on where to find a good supplier? Im 20 miles from chicago if that helps your reply.
Thank you!
Hi David! steel is crazy priced right now. I buy a lot of stuff out of the remnant bins at my local suppliers because they sell them cheaper and by the pound. I also buy stuff off Craigslist when I can find it for good prices. 👍😀
@@PranaTech
Thank you very much for the quick reply.
I was watching your video because im trying to choose equipment and prices.
You have the cool guy cold saw dont you? 😎. Im not rushing into anything. Im doing a lot of research right now.
I’ve been praying about if i should try starting up a small business at home to start off. After i prayed i sold my drums that i havent played for $2000.
Lol. So its like i got a quick answer to that prayer. But the cost of steel seems to be making everything i want to build to sell way too expensive. There is an alro steel not too far from my house. It says on their website that they have a retail shop in their building. I think that may be my best bet. I hope you are doing well for yourself in these uncertain times.
Thank you again
Dave
Hi Dave! Yeah this saw is kinda hard to find. There are a few good saws out there like it that are quality like the evolution and the fein “slugger”. You can fabricate with a minimum of tools it just takes more time. If you can do decent work, there will always be a market for you. A lot of guys here in Tucson where I live just put ads on Craigslist that they can build gates and weld and they get quite a bit of work. A lot of people don’t have the skills to build anything anymore so people like you will always have value! Just put yourself out there and the people will find you. 👍😀Don
Prayer always helps as well! Follow your heart and you can never go wrong! 🙏❤️
hi, can you tell me the model please, i want to buy cutting saw like this , thanks
Hi Tomas, this saw is a Rigid 614. It’s a fairly expensive saw but will last the rest of your life! Comparable saws that are a little cheaper are the Fein Slugger and the Evolution 380 if your budget is a little lower. Let me know if you need any other information. 😁👍
What is the difference between a chop saw 3800 rpm and your saw?
Hi John, the difference is that the cold saw runs at 1200 to 1400 rpm and uses a carbide blade and has a more rigid spindle to handle the heavier loads of the carbide blade. 😁👍
I just use my Jiffy square on the vice
That works too, but the square I made is much quicker for me.😁👍
Nice saw, but I don't see the justification for a $979 price tag just because it has an improved clamping device on the rear. Is the standard clamping most saws have really that much inferior to this one? What does this one provide that is so much better? Each to their own, of course, and I know your video wasn't about recommedning this saw. I'm just wondering where the big price tag is derived from.
I can totally understand your point of view. When I purchased this saw, I got it for $650 new on eBay. I don’t know if occasional use of a cold saw would justify the current price tag. For me, I went through two lesser saws by popular brands and the vises flexed enough and were so inaccurate that I struggled to make repeatable on larger steel square tubing like 3-4”. It was very frustrating when you measure accurately and your cuts are not. This saw makes me money in my welding business and has performed flawlessly since the day I bought it many years ago. It also has a lifetime warranty which is pretty rare these days. If I wasn’t making money with this saw, I would probably have gone with the Evolution or the Fein slugger. 👍😊
@@PranaTech Thanks for the info....makes sense.
Cold cut saw
This video has gotten me so many comments from all sides about what the proper name to call these saws. 🤣👍
I like your 45 jig.
Thank you!🙏😀
hey buddy if you just run the clamp back a bunch you can lay your speed square in there and adjust your vice to exactly 45 deg...I do it all the time on first try...just sayin
Great idea!😁👍
You should set your vice up further forward so that the blade is cutting on the downward spin. If you set it up like the video, it will cut the last part of the material on the upward spin. This can be dangerous as the blade can pull the work out of the vice and throw it at your face!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Bob! 😁🙏
Couldn’t you have just marked the bed of the saw when you had the 45 degree set out properly instead of making a whole seperate tool?
Yes, you could do that. Although the bed of the saw receives constant abuse from dragging the steel across it so who knows how long that marking will last. Also, you are relying on your eyes to judge the alignment in relation to the marking. My method gives you an instant setup that is perfect every time and I know it is at a perfect 45. 😁👍
can you really make a lot of cut before sending the saw to be sharpened because i tried a blade at 4200 rpm on my chop saw 3500rpm and its cut not long 7-8 cut and finished cutting more, then with a real chop saw low rpm I hope to do better because its scares me a little to spend again for nothing I would like its cut long thank you.
Hi Rick, yes I usually get hundreds of cuts out of my blades before they need replacing. These blades need to be run at 1200 to 1400 RPM. Any more and the carbide teeth will just blow right off the blade and it will be ruined very quickly. If you get a low rpm cold saw you will be very happy with how long the blades last if you cut slow and steady with it. Hope this helps! 👍😁Don
wax idea
jesus, after you get the 45 where u want it, take an awl and scratch a line where the fence meets the base, no welding, no wasted steel, and its on the saw where u need it
Hi Reeferdog, that’s a great idea! My problem is that it’s hard to get the rear fence to line up each time with the scribed line because these cold saw vise’s are so sloppy. You line it up with the scribed line and when you tighten down the pivot screw, the back fence slides one way or another and you don’t get a 45 degree cut. Good idea though!👍😀
where did you get your saw, maybe you said.. sorry
Hi There! I bought it off a seller on eBay but they do sell them on Amazon as well. I’ve owned a couple of the cheaper ones and was never happy with the vise closure mechanism and could never get very good accuracy like I wanted. This saw is amazing and I would definitely recommend it. It is a model 614. 😊👍
@@PranaTechThat saw is $979 right now on Amazon. Geeze.
Tube wax now $45
I have found that Irish Spring soap works just as good and is much cheaper!👍😊
how the fuck does wax cut steel?
The wax doesn’t cut the steel, but it does lubricate the blade and greatly lengthens the life of it.😁👍
MY DeWalt looks like shit compared to that rigid
Dewalt is a great saw! The main thing that is the upgrade on the rigid is the precision vise. 👍
Nice video. Please stop referring to that as a cold saw. A cold saw is a completely different animal. That is a dry cut saw.
Hi Brian, thanks for the comment! There seems to be a lot of confusion out there with regards to the naming of these saws. Some people call them cold saws because the heat from the cut goes into the chips instead of the workpiece, hence the lack of heat in the steel when finished cutting. I’ll call it a dry cut saw from now on though. Thanks!😁👍
Could tell absolutely no difference between the wax cut and no wax cut. And I'm sorry that's not a cold saw that's just a carbide chop saw. Cold saw is a whole different animal.
You need to move your fence down dude.