I like your articulate speech. As for remembering where drum brake parts belong, I found it very useful to use multiple colored sharpie markers and mark both spots of some attachment. Then reassembling is merely color by color.
I may have to do this to my 08 corolla so this is a great tutorial...I may wait until it gets warmer though as I dont relish laying on my back on the cold concrete garage floor. certainly be much easier and quicker if we weekend mechanics had a bay..LOL!
Yes I had to do this in the winter because I park on an incline often and sometimes I need to leave my engine running. And being a manual I can't park it without the parkin brake and the engine on or it will roll away on me lol. So I absolutely needed to replace it then. But it wasn't fun. So yes wait for warmer weather if you can :)
good afternoon, these cables are the same as the corolla sedan 94? here in Brazil it will not be easy to find these cables, I have a Corolla WG 1.8 94, congratulations for the work!!!
the wagon looks to have a fairly new fuel tank and filler neck pipe, did you replace those? my Corolla developed a nasty fuel leak at the top of the tank and the filler neck last year. i replaced the rotted filler neck pipe with a load of new parts and hoses, it took almost 9 hours on a sunny Sunday. i used some JB fuel tank weld for the hole on top of the tank by the breather tube for the time being to see if it holds or breaks under tank pressure before taking down the whole fuel tank
Yes I replaced all those a few years ago. My fuel tank was rotted right where the top and bottom half meet. So if I put more than half a tank in it would leak. Filler ne k was also rotted so every time I did put my half a tank in, I'd leak fuel while filling up 😄😄 it was a disaster. So I replaced all that. I also replaced my fuel filter while I was at it. When I put the tank back up I think I pinched the vent tube and it stopped venting. So instead of fixing that I just drilled a tiny hole in my gas cap. Works mint. Just can't take a sharp and fast right hand turn if I have more than 3/4 fuel otherwise it comes out through the gas cap hole hahahaha
@@AutoFixYT rust stinks! are you aware about the trailing arm area on these cars that can rip and separate from the unibody if the rust is too bad and you hit the right hole in the road? i saw a guys Gen7 Corolla from the Ohio area with it ripped out. I think he junked the car and did not look into any welding to keep it structurally sound. Its a bummer because i think these gen7 Corollas are a gem but after watching this video I want to check the parking brake assembly hidden by the shield but need to attempt to get the middle insulator shield off (the bolts are rusted and the shield is half eaten by rust. the shield under the fuel tank did come off easily with just one broken bolt that had to be drilled out
@@efil4kizum oh I am very aware of the trailing arm rot. I have holes on both sides in the body where my trailing arms attach. I also had my driver's side trailing arm break off on me. It's on the list of repairs... Just never have any time. And yeah those heat shields are all rotted for me. I think the only one I still have is the fuel tank one.
@@AutoFixYT well that stinks about the driver side trailing arm! I unloaded a couple of cans of WoolWax and FluidFilm inside those cavities to keep more saltwater from getting inside there (hopefully) but the concerning area i found was behind the rotted rocker panels that i hammered off in chunks on the passenger side (still have to chunk off the driver side to inspect) and now will have to dabble in learning some body work in the next year or two... here's my video of that fuel leak found when it was nearly 20 below zero outside ruclips.net/video/8A6Wz6aWuV4/видео.html
@@efil4kizum Yeah I have to resume body work on the driver's rocker too. I fixed the passenger's side a couple years ago. Also yeah that's a fuel leak for sure haha nowhere near as bad as mine used to be. Mine would pour out while I was fueling up, super dangerous and embarrassing lol
Hello how are ya!! I have a 97 Toyota Corolla and I’m having issues with the power steering pump. I’m pretty sure it’s no good bcuz it makes a horrible noise when I turn the wheel and at some point the wheel locks up. Could you do a video on how to change the pump? Or how to identify signs of a bad pump? Stay safe 🙏🏻
First of all, try checking the fluid. If it's too low, it will aerate and will ruin the pump and potentially the rack. If it's full but too old, then it can also ruin the pump and the rack because it will lack lubrication and won't hold pressure (power steering systems are under A LOT of pressure). So if it's low and/or old, change the fluid out and make sure it's full and the system is bled. One other thing you can do is make sure the belt that spins the pump isn't slipping. It doesn't happen often but if it's too loose it can slip silently. Doesn't happen often though. But definitely make sure you have fresh fluid in there and that it's full. That might help you get by for a while. If the noise you're currently hearing is a whining noise then that's a sign of low fluid or a terribly worn out pump. But that's always the sound of low fluid. Obviously if it's squeaking that will be a belt slipping, and the pump may not have a problem at all. If the belt is too loose then it can't spin under pressure.
Auto Fix Hey it was actually the rack n pinion 😂 that baby was worn the f*** out lolz. Thank you for your advise thow I will defiantly watch out for any new noises that hopefully won’t come up anytime soon. 👍🏼
Hey I’m watching this my car e brake gets stuck and won’t let me go on drive unless I fidget it then I can drive does is this video for that I should change e brake
I bought them on eBay a long time ago but they don't sell them there anymore. Here is a link to them: www.1aauto.com/1993-97-toyota-corolla-performance-lighting-kit-4-piece-set-crystal-style-diamond-style-euro-depo/i/1alhz00040
My 2000 corollas park brake all of a sudden got stiff. I havent tried pulling it because i can feel the resistance and dont wnna risk it getting stuck. Why would this happen? I usually use it about once a month so it doesnt freeze.
That sounds like a seized cable to me. Or could even be both cables. It happens over time, water gets inside and rusts the steel cables and then they seize. You have to replace them. Definitely don't pull on it, you'll end up with the ebrake stuck on like you said. Also, once a month is nowhere near enough. A lot can happen in a month rust wise. It's a use it or loose it situation. Use it ever day. Better yet, every time you park. If you don't, you risk seizing the cables especially if you're in an area that's prone to rust. When you pull the rear drums off make sure that it's not the parking brake arm on the shoes that's frozen, sometimes that can happen too. But most likely it's gonna be the cables. Just double check before you buy parts that way you know what to buy. Keep me updated on the situation!
Bought black housing headlights off of ebay, cut them open, bought universal retrofit projectors off of amazon, plastidipped the reflector of the low beam black, then installed the projector and closed up the lens. Took a lot of adjustment and fiddling around but they're almost to the point where I'm happy with them now. I cannot emphasize enough the "fiddling around" part. There's always something I adjust on them to make them better. Being a custom setup none of this was meant to work together so you kinda have to improvise and be creative with certain things. But the end result is totally worth it!
Toyota brake drums have jack bolt holes to pull them off: use 10mm bolts. To break rusty bolts or nuts loose tap on the handle of the wrench with a ball peen hammer, it acts like an impact wrench and sends an extremely high torque shock wave thru the bolt, without breaking it. Or use that impact driver you were using on the lug nuts. When you pulled the 2nd bolt off the cable you can see the frame is rusted thru - that car is not safe to be on the road, and it will not pass inspection BTW: its not normal for the brake cables to be crossed over under the car - before you start taking the wrong one off the front check and make sure you trace it all the way back to the rear wheel you are replacing
Thanks for the info! Yes I know the car has rust issues but I can assure you that passes inspection every year haha nobody checks for that here where I live. Also I am planning on actually fixing it in the future. Also the bolts that broke, if a bolt is gonna break, it'll break. It only might not if you add heat to it but even then I've had them break. And the cables, even if they're not meant to be crossed it doesn't matter because it's not like you're operating each parking brake individually. The lever pulls on both equally.
I like your articulate speech. As for remembering where drum brake parts belong, I found it very useful to use multiple colored sharpie markers and mark both spots of some attachment. Then reassembling is merely color by color.
Thanks! And yes that works, that's a good trick!
Thanks very much men it was the video that I needed exactly , regards from Venezuela
Awesome! I'm glad the video helped!
I may have to do this to my 08 corolla so this is a great tutorial...I may wait until it gets warmer though as I dont relish laying on my back on the cold concrete garage floor. certainly be much easier and quicker if we weekend mechanics had a bay..LOL!
Yes I had to do this in the winter because I park on an incline often and sometimes I need to leave my engine running. And being a manual I can't park it without the parkin brake and the engine on or it will roll away on me lol. So I absolutely needed to replace it then. But it wasn't fun. So yes wait for warmer weather if you can :)
I love this wagon. Keep up the vids. Thank you
Thank you!
good afternoon, these cables are the same as the corolla sedan 94? here in Brazil it will not be easy to find these cables, I have a Corolla WG 1.8 94, congratulations for the work!!!
Yes they are the same as the sedan
Thanks pro very much. I’m from Viet nam. Your video teach me to do this by my self
Awesome! I'm glad the video helped!
Thanks for the great video.
You're welcome!
the wagon looks to have a fairly new fuel tank and filler neck pipe, did you replace those? my Corolla developed a nasty fuel leak at the top of the tank and the filler neck last year. i replaced the rotted filler neck pipe with a load of new parts and hoses, it took almost 9 hours on a sunny Sunday. i used some JB fuel tank weld for the hole on top of the tank by the breather tube for the time being to see if it holds or breaks under tank pressure before taking down the whole fuel tank
Yes I replaced all those a few years ago. My fuel tank was rotted right where the top and bottom half meet. So if I put more than half a tank in it would leak. Filler ne k was also rotted so every time I did put my half a tank in, I'd leak fuel while filling up 😄😄 it was a disaster.
So I replaced all that. I also replaced my fuel filter while I was at it. When I put the tank back up I think I pinched the vent tube and it stopped venting. So instead of fixing that I just drilled a tiny hole in my gas cap. Works mint. Just can't take a sharp and fast right hand turn if I have more than 3/4 fuel otherwise it comes out through the gas cap hole hahahaha
@@AutoFixYT rust stinks! are you aware about the trailing arm area on these cars that can rip and separate from the unibody if the rust is too bad and you hit the right hole in the road? i saw a guys Gen7 Corolla from the Ohio area with it ripped out. I think he junked the car and did not look into any welding to keep it structurally sound. Its a bummer because i think these gen7 Corollas are a gem
but after watching this video I want to check the parking brake assembly hidden by the shield but need to attempt to get the middle insulator shield off (the bolts are rusted and the shield is half eaten by rust. the shield under the fuel tank did come off easily with just one broken bolt that had to be drilled out
@@efil4kizum oh I am very aware of the trailing arm rot. I have holes on both sides in the body where my trailing arms attach. I also had my driver's side trailing arm break off on me. It's on the list of repairs... Just never have any time.
And yeah those heat shields are all rotted for me. I think the only one I still have is the fuel tank one.
@@AutoFixYT well that stinks about the driver side trailing arm! I unloaded a couple of cans of WoolWax and FluidFilm inside those cavities to keep more saltwater from getting inside there (hopefully) but the concerning area i found was behind the rotted rocker panels that i hammered off in chunks on the passenger side (still have to chunk off the driver side to inspect) and now will have to dabble in learning some body work in the next year or two...
here's my video of that fuel leak found when it was nearly 20 below zero outside
ruclips.net/video/8A6Wz6aWuV4/видео.html
@@efil4kizum Yeah I have to resume body work on the driver's rocker too. I fixed the passenger's side a couple years ago.
Also yeah that's a fuel leak for sure haha nowhere near as bad as mine used to be. Mine would pour out while I was fueling up, super dangerous and embarrassing lol
Hello how are ya!! I have a 97 Toyota Corolla and I’m having issues with the power steering pump. I’m pretty sure it’s no good bcuz it makes a horrible noise when I turn the wheel and at some point the wheel locks up. Could you do a video on how to change the pump? Or how to identify signs of a bad pump? Stay safe 🙏🏻
First of all, try checking the fluid. If it's too low, it will aerate and will ruin the pump and potentially the rack. If it's full but too old, then it can also ruin the pump and the rack because it will lack lubrication and won't hold pressure (power steering systems are under A LOT of pressure). So if it's low and/or old, change the fluid out and make sure it's full and the system is bled. One other thing you can do is make sure the belt that spins the pump isn't slipping. It doesn't happen often but if it's too loose it can slip silently. Doesn't happen often though. But definitely make sure you have fresh fluid in there and that it's full. That might help you get by for a while. If the noise you're currently hearing is a whining noise then that's a sign of low fluid or a terribly worn out pump. But that's always the sound of low fluid. Obviously if it's squeaking that will be a belt slipping, and the pump may not have a problem at all. If the belt is too loose then it can't spin under pressure.
Auto Fix Hey it was actually the rack n pinion 😂 that baby was worn the f*** out lolz. Thank you for your advise thow I will defiantly watch out for any new noises that hopefully won’t come up anytime soon. 👍🏼
Hey I’m watching this my car e brake gets stuck and won’t let me go on drive unless I fidget it then I can drive does is this video for that I should change e brake
I'm not even sure if this is a question or a statement, but what you said is too vague for me to give you an answer.
Spent 3 hours today trying to get my ebrake cable to slide up like yours did and still couldn't do it.. Daaaang
😬😬😬😬
where did you get your aftermarkee headlights from?
I bought them on eBay a long time ago but they don't sell them there anymore. Here is a link to them:
www.1aauto.com/1993-97-toyota-corolla-performance-lighting-kit-4-piece-set-crystal-style-diamond-style-euro-depo/i/1alhz00040
My 2000 corollas park brake all of a sudden got stiff. I havent tried pulling it because i can feel the resistance and dont wnna risk it getting stuck. Why would this happen? I usually use it about once a month so it doesnt freeze.
That sounds like a seized cable to me. Or could even be both cables. It happens over time, water gets inside and rusts the steel cables and then they seize. You have to replace them. Definitely don't pull on it, you'll end up with the ebrake stuck on like you said. Also, once a month is nowhere near enough. A lot can happen in a month rust wise. It's a use it or loose it situation. Use it ever day. Better yet, every time you park. If you don't, you risk seizing the cables especially if you're in an area that's prone to rust. When you pull the rear drums off make sure that it's not the parking brake arm on the shoes that's frozen, sometimes that can happen too. But most likely it's gonna be the cables. Just double check before you buy parts that way you know what to buy. Keep me updated on the situation!
How did u add projectors in headlights?
Bought black housing headlights off of ebay, cut them open, bought universal retrofit projectors off of amazon, plastidipped the reflector of the low beam black, then installed the projector and closed up the lens. Took a lot of adjustment and fiddling around but they're almost to the point where I'm happy with them now. I cannot emphasize enough the "fiddling around" part. There's always something I adjust on them to make them better. Being a custom setup none of this was meant to work together so you kinda have to improvise and be creative with certain things. But the end result is totally worth it!
good thing you have a garage it would have been possible to do that outside
Yes I'm very thankful to have the garage. Even though it's not insulated and I keep the doors open, I'm shielded from the elements which is great
Toyota brake drums have jack bolt holes to pull them off: use 10mm bolts.
To break rusty bolts or nuts loose tap on the handle of the wrench with a ball peen hammer, it acts like an impact wrench and sends an extremely high torque shock wave thru the bolt, without breaking it. Or use that impact driver you were using on the lug nuts.
When you pulled the 2nd bolt off the cable you can see the frame is rusted thru - that car is not safe to be on the road, and it will not pass inspection
BTW: its not normal for the brake cables to be crossed over under the car - before you start taking the wrong one off the front check and make sure you trace it all the way back to the rear wheel you are replacing
Thanks for the info!
Yes I know the car has rust issues but I can assure you that passes inspection every year haha nobody checks for that here where I live. Also I am planning on actually fixing it in the future.
Also the bolts that broke, if a bolt is gonna break, it'll break. It only might not if you add heat to it but even then I've had them break.
And the cables, even if they're not meant to be crossed it doesn't matter because it's not like you're operating each parking brake individually. The lever pulls on both equally.
According to the Toyota schematics, the cables most certainly DO criss cross.
Same car but mines has leaf springs and diffrent back hubs
That cylinder looks to be in pretty bad shape as well.
Just rusty on the oustide. Still functions well and believe it or not I can still use the bleeder :)