Congrats on getting the laser engraver sent to you. I've had an Xtool M1 Ultra for about 2 months now. So basically I'm still a noob with lasers as well. But there are some pieces of advice I can pass on to you even though I am new to them. 1. You're going to need excellent ventilation. That little fume extractor you have will not be enough. The best scenario is to get or make an enclosure for the laser and ventilate outside if at all possible. 2. Diode lasers are limited in the materials they can engrave/cut. PLA and PETG can't be engraved or cut with a diode laser. The diode laser just melts them. Most metals are out with the exception of doing some light engraving (more like etching than engraving really). Only dark colored acrylics can be engraved or cut with a diode laser, clear acrylic is definitely a no go. 3. Get a good pair of glasses to wear while engraving or cutting. The ones these manufacturers send you with a laser are almost all junk. 4. Lastly, use Lightburn software. Yeah I know it's a subscription based product but it's pretty much the standard. Plus if you want to find videos tutorials on how to do things you'll find more help with using Lightburn than any other software. But again congrats on growing the channel and getting to the point manufacturers are willing to send you products for review.
if you can knock that un adhesed top pc off you can put that model in the slicer and print just the missing pc and glue them together, i have dont this several times. as long as you are with in +=1 layer its not noticeable.
2 дня назад+1
I'm working on building my own print farm currently. I would highly recommend running home assistant even if it isn't for normal home automation but it can most likely pull most of your printers info into it to setup automations that can help you in yhe long run. Also its one platform to get all your info about your ongoing prints.
Much quicker method running a dashboard on a Pi. Dump your printer connection info into the config and you're on your way :) 30+ Bambu Printers in my farm and it works great!
when it comes to laser engravers i have several, all open gantry like yours. I put them in an enclosure and i put proper extraction on them. A laser is not a 3dprinter, you cannot leave it run unattended, as it if decides to go sideways it can and will start a fire. I primarily engrave painted ceramic tiles on a metal bed so i can leave mine unattended with a lower risk but still a risk. I cannot emphasize enough the proper glasses, they are a dark yellow/orange think blue blockers.
Have you checked out Octo-Print? It's a print OS that you load onto a Rasp PI or PC that also has USB camera integration. It will do time lapse videos as well as snap stills at each layer for those videos where it looks like the print is growing out of the bed. It was a game-changer for me.
Thanks for sharing such valuable information! I need some advice: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
I had a print have a layer shift but the model finished ok. I broke off the shifted part and glued it back in place and took one of those 3D printing pens and filled in the gaps. Took a little to smooth it out but it looks pretty good.
The reason the skull filament switch may have failed, is that you may have left it too long and the first part of the print may have cooled and shrank a bit, pulling the top layers downward thus leaving a gap for the new filament change.
Not sure how to remedy that other than heated chamber I guess, right? I'm not waking up in the middle of the night to swap filaments within (how long of a window do I even get?) lol
@@TechnicalsTinkers Ok, it's your shop. I just can't help but mention something though. When buying an AC for my house (multiple times) I was cautioned not to get something too big because it would cool the house before enough air has flowed over the coils to pull the humidity out. Simple solution, just put a meter in the room so you know for sure. For all I know your mini split has a dehumidify mode. Winter should be no problem though because heated air is always drier than it started when cold.
@@TechnicalsTinkers DO ET!!! I have drawer slides coming for some AMS holders for that rack system, putting the AMS's back on the racking. Should make life easier.
laser engraving plastic is not recommended, some plastic give off toxic fumes when they burn. also air assist will help keep your lens clean. proper focus is key to sharp engravings and Lightburn is pretty much necessary these days and is an awesome program.
Those blue diode laser engravers are complete junk. Practically all you can really do with them is lightly burn wood. You MIGHT be able to do some marking with plastics but the surface needs to be very flat so that you hit it perfectly at the focal point but you'll need to do a test pattern on every single different filament (color/type/brand) that you want to mark because the power and speed will affect how much the surface heats up and the color of the mark if it leaves a mark at all or it may just melt the plastic entirely. For real engraving/marking work you're going to want a fiber laser that uses a different type of laser beam and a different wavelength of light that gets sent through fiber optic cables and then hits a mirror that redirects the beam incredibly fast. Just search for videos of fiber lasers and you'll see how incredible they are at marking/engraving a huge variety of materials. There's even "portable" ones now that you can hold up to the object that you want to mark.
A 10w diode laser is not going to be able to engrave plastic. Realistically, you'd need a 20w fibre laser to etch plastic.... and an enclosure with extraction + proper safety glass or acrylic. Be careful with your family members and pets; lasers are dangerous and only takes a few seconds (eg stray reflections) to do some serious damage.
If you're going to use the laser engraver in a serious capacity, it would be worth getting Lightburn software. It costs money, but I think the time investment is going to be more significant. A blue diode laser engraver is limited in what kind of materials it will interact with, and how it interacts with them. There's also a lot of safety shit you need to learn. Don't try to engrave any plastics until you do your research. Definitely don't engrave PVC or ABS.
I’m going to give you the best advice: Always put on a Fresh 5kg roll for any Giga print. Giga prints sell for more $$ and it takes more time a more power so why not increase your odds of a Good print. Otherwise you’re wasting material and time plus power.
Congrats on getting the laser engraver sent to you. I've had an Xtool M1 Ultra for about 2 months now. So basically I'm still a noob with lasers as well. But there are some pieces of advice I can pass on to you even though I am new to them.
1. You're going to need excellent ventilation. That little fume extractor you have will not be enough. The best scenario is to get or make an enclosure for the laser and ventilate outside if at all possible.
2. Diode lasers are limited in the materials they can engrave/cut. PLA and PETG can't be engraved or cut with a diode laser. The diode laser just melts them. Most metals are out with the exception of doing some light engraving (more like etching than engraving really). Only dark colored acrylics can be engraved or cut with a diode laser, clear acrylic is definitely a no go.
3. Get a good pair of glasses to wear while engraving or cutting. The ones these manufacturers send you with a laser are almost all junk.
4. Lastly, use Lightburn software. Yeah I know it's a subscription based product but it's pretty much the standard. Plus if you want to find videos tutorials on how to do things you'll find more help with using Lightburn than any other software.
But again congrats on growing the channel and getting to the point manufacturers are willing to send you products for review.
if you can knock that un adhesed top pc off you can put that model in the slicer and print just the missing pc and glue them together, i have dont this several times. as long as you are with in +=1 layer its not noticeable.
I'm working on building my own print farm currently. I would highly recommend running home assistant even if it isn't for normal home automation but it can most likely pull most of your printers info into it to setup automations that can help you in yhe long run. Also its one platform to get all your info about your ongoing prints.
Much quicker method running a dashboard on a Pi. Dump your printer connection info into the config and you're on your way :) 30+ Bambu Printers in my farm and it works great!
when it comes to laser engravers i have several, all open gantry like yours. I put them in an enclosure and i put proper extraction on them. A laser is not a 3dprinter, you cannot leave it run unattended, as it if decides to go sideways it can and will start a fire. I primarily engrave painted ceramic tiles on a metal bed so i can leave mine unattended with a lower risk but still a risk. I cannot emphasize enough the proper glasses, they are a dark yellow/orange think blue blockers.
What about adding a shelf or 2 to the hideaway??
Here when I have substantial overhangs, I use a height modifier and change only that portion of printing to a lower layer height.
On some models a try using Thick Bridges On or Off, depending on model I have better results with on, on other with off.
Everything tho avoid using supports
I think that big printer would make awesome custom car grills. If the front of my car had a Batman logo instead of Toyota that would be great
Have you checked out Octo-Print? It's a print OS that you load onto a Rasp PI or PC that also has USB camera integration. It will do time lapse videos as well as snap stills at each layer for those videos where it looks like the print is growing out of the bed. It was a game-changer for me.
you should look into variable layer height with your big parts on the bowled out sections and top sections where you can really see the layers.
itll also help on your overhangs
I don't usually use it, but it could be clutch for the Giga!
From New Zealand loving your content keep
Thanks for sharing such valuable information! I need some advice: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
I had a print have a layer shift but the model finished ok. I broke off the shifted part and glued it back in place and took one of those 3D printing pens and filled in the gaps. Took a little to smooth it out but it looks pretty good.
The reason the skull filament switch may have failed, is that you may have left it too long and the first part of the print may have cooled and shrank a bit, pulling the top layers downward thus leaving a gap for the new filament change.
Not sure how to remedy that other than heated chamber I guess, right? I'm not waking up in the middle of the night to swap filaments within (how long of a window do I even get?) lol
congrats on the subs... and the free lazer printer... you content creators sure get a lot of perks... makes me think
You should put a dehumidifier in the room. Humidity causes a lot of problems. Mostly bubbling up but also not sticking to itself or the plate well.
That garage has it's own dedicated mini split, oversized bigly, Pulls it out pretty good
@@TechnicalsTinkers Ok, it's your shop. I just can't help but mention something though. When buying an AC for my house (multiple times) I was cautioned not to get something too big because it would cool the house before enough air has flowed over the coils to pull the humidity out. Simple solution, just put a meter in the room so you know for sure. For all I know your mini split has a dehumidify mode. Winter should be no problem though because heated air is always drier than it started when cold.
Gotta print repracks out for all that filament.
LOL that would be the entire wall. It's 180 kilos total
@@TechnicalsTinkers DO ET!!! I have drawer slides coming for some AMS holders for that rack system, putting the AMS's back on the racking. Should make life easier.
laser engraving plastic is not recommended, some plastic give off toxic fumes when they burn. also air assist will help keep your lens clean. proper focus is key to sharp engravings and Lightburn is pretty much necessary these days and is an awesome program.
Those blue diode laser engravers are complete junk. Practically all you can really do with them is lightly burn wood. You MIGHT be able to do some marking with plastics but the surface needs to be very flat so that you hit it perfectly at the focal point but you'll need to do a test pattern on every single different filament (color/type/brand) that you want to mark because the power and speed will affect how much the surface heats up and the color of the mark if it leaves a mark at all or it may just melt the plastic entirely.
For real engraving/marking work you're going to want a fiber laser that uses a different type of laser beam and a different wavelength of light that gets sent through fiber optic cables and then hits a mirror that redirects the beam incredibly fast. Just search for videos of fiber lasers and you'll see how incredible they are at marking/engraving a huge variety of materials. There's even "portable" ones now that you can hold up to the object that you want to mark.
Your channel and business are growing organically following from Kampala Uganda🇺🇬
Kampala Ugandus?
@@TechnicalsTinkers I think he meant the capital city of Uganda. Not sure what the UG might signify other than a typo.
@@TechnicalsTinkers Kampala is the capital city, Uganda is the country. Visit soon😄
Laser engravers are dope! I have a Xtool!
That's cool. Most companies will not send product for review unless your channel has at least 10k subscribers.
Im super good looking tho
That is a lot of filament!
A 10w diode laser is not going to be able to engrave plastic. Realistically, you'd need a 20w fibre laser to etch plastic.... and an enclosure with extraction + proper safety glass or acrylic. Be careful with your family members and pets; lasers are dangerous and only takes a few seconds (eg stray reflections) to do some serious damage.
Wear laser glasses!
Are you drying your filament before using it?
Nope, go through it too quick
Time for 3k giveaway!
Dang! How many pairs of shoes and handbags did the wifey get for Christmas?? She must have the whole Gucci catelog!
LOL dont give her ideas
If you're going to use the laser engraver in a serious capacity, it would be worth getting Lightburn software. It costs money, but I think the time investment is going to be more significant. A blue diode laser engraver is limited in what kind of materials it will interact with, and how it interacts with them. There's also a lot of safety shit you need to learn. Don't try to engrave any plastics until you do your research. Definitely don't engrave PVC or ABS.
Every gram you waste, every fail you taste, I'll be watching you.
Oh can't you see
You have a short TOP Z
Every gram I waste
An ocean creature will taste
GM TT People
👍👍
You are no longer just a novice. Leave that 30 seconds of the video out and just jump to showing the items
If I keep saying i'm a novice people can't accuse me of being an idiot (as much)
I’m going to give you the best advice: Always put on a Fresh 5kg roll for any Giga print. Giga prints sell for more $$ and it takes more time a more power so why not increase your odds of a Good print. Otherwise you’re wasting material and time plus power.
Bro this thing needs 10kg spools for real
1SG Mayer ? Il be sure always