The trick I use for spongy brakes, that doesn't involve replacing anything, is to take the stretch out of the brake cable. Take up all the cable slack at the caliper, and wind out the barrel adjuster. Squeeze the brake lever as hard as you can. Keep taking up the slack until the cable won't stretch any more. I've gotten cheap mechanical brakes to feel just as solid as a set of hydraulic brakes.
@@MaYbYl8eR You bet! Alignment is especially critical on the rear brake, as you do need to account for cable stretch by having a tighter spacing between the pad and rotor.
@@NjAnderson118 What you want to do is take all the slack out of the system anywhere you can. Loosen the cable clamp at the caliper, and pull as much cable as you can. It doesn't matter if the pads are pressing against the rotor. Then wind out the cable adjusters. This will put the cable under tension. Finally squeeze the brake lever as hard as you can. At this point, you'll end up literally pulling the stretch out of the cable. Once you let go of the lever, you'll find that it's a bit looser than it was before. Then wind the adjusters back in, loosen the cable clamp at the caliper, and pull more of the cable through. Tighten everything back up again, and keep repeating this process until you can't get the cable to stretch anymore.
Yes! I used to get Nokon but now have the JagWire segmented housing, and the mandrel-drawn cable, which is almost as important. It makes almost any cable actuated brake go from mediocre to excellent.
.. And you still would have spongy brakes 😯 It is essential to you use compressionless cable housings like Jagwire keb-sl and metal endcaps with mechanical disc brakes. I don't remember a bike manufacturer who does this from stock and it frightens. So drop the caliper upgrade and go to your lbs who knows his stuff 😁
i used these on my e scooter because it was a decent upgrade over stock that doesn't require me to route hydraulic lines and install motor cutoff switches. work decent. stops good from 35mph. IF i had a bike id go hydraulic because running the lines is easier. that trying to take everything apart and snake a cable in.
@@RenaxTM91 There are certain applications though where someone might still want mechanical brakes over hydraulic brakes. Adventure cyclists, bike backers, or tour riders value reliability and ease of repair over all else. It's far easier to replace a broken brake cable in the dark on the side of the road than it is to bleed a brake. Not to mention that a spare cable is easier to pack than a bleed kit and hydraulic fluid.
I've found that you can get a cheap but good hydro two piston caliper for around the same price as a cheap mechanical one and way cheaper then a expensive mechanical one and the cheap hydro works pretty damn good which blew my mind the first time I tried it but tbh it really looks exactly the same design as a more expensive hydro brakes so I shouldn't have been so surprised I guess. I also have tried the line pull but hydro actuated meaning theres mechanical brake line going to the caliper but a hydro piston is connected to that so that it actuated both sides of the caliper and that worked pretty decently too and reduced the cost by not needing to buy a new lever system and master cylinder!!! But the cheap hydro caliper cost the same as that so if your willing to just spend $15 more for the lever and lines the hydro is def the way to go I think.
These old calipers were the exact ones on my bike and the front one failed a week ago. Replaced them with the exact same ones on the video, except for silver color. What a coincidence!
Bro, at that point, just convert it to hydraulic You can get Shimano hydraulic calipers, lines, and levers ready to run for like $60 and have like triple the stopping power. Especially when you already have a separate shift and brake lever. My bike has a shift lever on the rear that also has mechanical brakes built in, so I’ve just got my front brake swapped to hydraulic and it makes a massive difference.
I got my mech disc brakes and levers set up soft like that on my Mongoose Switchback Expert but it still locks the back tire up. The disc calipers are Promax 310 and the levers are Shimano ST-EF51 shifter/brake combo. I readjusted them that way because they came too stiff from the factory.
You could just bleed the brake properly... I had the cheapest set of hydraulic brakes on mine and i only just replaced them after 3 years because i converted it to ebike so needed ones with switches in (still the cheapest) and they never went spongey once
@@dashofawesome64 the only thing that needs to be good quality is the rotor and the pads. Good quality steel surface on a floating rotor and good quality sintered or ceramic pads (if you use ceramic pads on poor quality discs the disc will wear thin in no time) The rest of the brake system is simply a piston at the handlebar. Pressurised fluid in the hose and 2 pistons or more on the calliper. Providing everything is sealed properly, no leaky reservoir or hoses. Then there are literally zero gains from a more expensive setup. At most you might find that a premium brand will include either a single lever dual brake caliper with adjustable front and rear bias. Or an adjustable lever position. Hell I even have cheap eBay levers on my 125cc scooter WITH adjustable parts. And that feels way better than the stock ones. Stop paying more for known brands except for tyres, pads, discs, chains and chainrings/cassettes. Oh and frames/forks. Everything else can be pretty much what you want.
@@thampadua7261 ofc BUT he specifically said "cheap upgrade" last time i checked a whole new brake caliper isnt "cheap" not saying the brake caliper is not an upgrade it just didnt fit the title
A whole mt200 shimano front hydraulic brake is $50usd. Ready to attach, no bleeding or assembly. If you are beyond a well adjusted mechanical brake, that's your upgrade.
@@alexoprea2407 If you had a better part lying around, for sure. I'd do that, especially for a commuter bike etc. But this project surely wasn't much cheaper and definitely took much longer than whacking a Shimano hydraulic on and having a better brake... first world problems I guess.
@@robertmcfadyen9156however, that is only true for very low end mechanical calipers with a lot of flex. Once you're at mid level, it doesn't really improve anything to change the caliper. This video is a little misleading or oversimplified. Some cheaper calipers also don't have any issues with flex. It's always worth a shot to adjust it first.
For mechanical brakes that have the pull on one side like both of the ones that are shown here, you need to have the fixed pad as close to the rotor as possible, not centred. If they're centred on a single arm mechanical brake, there'll still be flex and uneven pad wear from the rotor flexing sideways to hit the fixed pad. Hydro brakes and BB7 style brakes should be centred though.
I still say the best upgrade for both hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes is a larger dia rotor as you need less force applying the brakes for the same amount of braking.
Spongy brake lever in mechanical setup is due to wrong cable sheaths. Use the correct stuff (compression resistant, axial strands) and you will improve greatly the performance.
This! Main reason new caliper can be less spongy is bigger pull ratio = weaker braking with worse modulation. Next would be disc distance from static pad and caliper rigidity.
Could you please go into detail about the different cable sheaths ? I'm new to this and doing everything I can to learn. My brakes haven't been operating properly and I'm still having issues.
When you move the arm up when making an adjustment you steal leverage from the brake and make it weaker. It’s a cheater way to adjust a disc brake. Proper way is to make sure the rotor is as straight as possible, align the caliper as close as possible to the brake pad that actually moves in when you pull the lever, use the adjuster on the caliper to move the brake pad on the other side over as close as possible without touching, then make sure the barrel adjuster is all the way screwed in on the lever, string the brake cable up and use a ferrule if it will fit, pull hard on the brake cable and make sure the brake arm is resting at its lowest position, while keeping tension on the brake cable with knipex or some grabbing tool use your other hand to pull the brake lever, this will help seat everything if you have installed new cable and housing, then once you have done this tighten the bolt to secure the cable to the brake arm. Pull the lever a few times hard to seat everything and then undo the cable and pull the slack out, look to see if you are able to move the non arm side pad anymore as often when you pull the brake the pads will settle in a little bit and you can sometimes get one more click out of the opposite adjuster side. The most important thing other than a properly bled brake for any disc braking system is a rotor that is dead straight. Use a rotor straightens gauge to get your rotor straight to within .01mm and you will have rock solid brakes that don’t rub, even when turning. I do this all day long at my shop and that rotor gauge tool is invaluable, it takes a lot of patience but once you get it the performance and reliability of disc brakes goes way up.
That's stupid. He could just change the pads or sand and clean them rotors too. Then adjust that will be cheaper and same effective. That video should be how to upgrade your brakes calliper. Fixing is not the same as upgrade with new brakes
@@robertmcfadyen9156 I have 200s (the version with the steel lever, the 201 has Aluminium levers) on a couple of bikes. If you don't need 2 or 1 finger levers and if you go for 180 mm rotors front and 160 rear they are good enough to balance the bike on the front wheel during braking. Of course there are brakes with less lever force - but the 200s are comparable to a V brake bike in lever force, so you can switch between V brake bikes and disc brake bikes without the danger of overbraking and going over the bar
Que fácil se ve cambiar y volver a ajustar un sistema de frenos y más cuando tienes todo para reemplazarlo ,pero cuando estás en un país clml Cuba donde cualquier pieza te vale un ojo y la mitad del otro hay que hacer reparaciones o reajustes para seguir tirando.
I have just thrown away hydraulic brakes because they are crap. I always do, even on my new gravel bike, £3000 first thing I do is remove anything hydraulic.
The true way to make these less spongy is to preload the clamping mechanism just a little bit. By clamping the cable with the mechanism already slightly engaged you decrease the pull distance necessary to effectively brake while leaving the gap between the pads and the rotor untouched
This is a hoax . Even with Shimano mechanical calipers , they are still a bit spongy . You are changing CANSUCC/UNIQUE brand ones for SHIMANO TX 801 or 475 .Good cable sheathing only reduces the sponginess slightly even when well lubricated as cable stretching under tension cannot be eliminated to achieve a crisp feel .
As a LBS mechanic, I can say you're not doing it right if you haven't achieved proper stopping power _after_ changing to compressionless housing. Even the worst mechanical brakes can be dialed in.
Or adjust your inboard stop. Most spongy brakes hit the rotor then continue to push it over more then 2mm to the other pad. Fix alignment and inboard before screwing the customer $100 for new calipers. ( I totally agree good calipers are better I have a set of Paul’s that are amazing but you don’t cost a customer money because your lazy.).
Bike shop guy here lol from my experience if your mechanical disc break feels spongy make sure that the caliper and cable are adjusted properly and if it's still spongy it's more likely that the housing has gotten old and worn out and it will literally compress and if it's bad you will see the housing tighten up and if that's the case it's a good idea to replace the cable aswell with the housing
Replace the housing with Shimano brake housing it's much better than the cheap OEM stuff. Grind the ends flat and poke an awl or sharpened broken spoke in the end a little bit of cable lubricant is good too. A thin coat of light grease on the cable is better than nothing though. Shimano cable grease is the best but expensive rock n roll cable magic is not bad
I'm consider changing mechanical brakes on my chinese ebike with hydraulic ones. With brake switches for the controller, of cource - and its not cheap. Factory-instaled brake rotors should be replaced too, they just suck. Well, "cheap" always means "expensive" in the end.
They have their pros and cons, for example they are not as precise or powerful as hydraulics, but they don't suffer on wet conditions like V brakes, and they are easier to setup than hydraulics, that comes handy if you do tour long distances on your bike and ever need to service them in the middle of nowhere.
Ficou menos pior. 😅 Freio mecânico top shimano era os M495, eu usava em rotores 203mm parava com tudo, freio macio, vc sente na manete as batidas no disco. Na época usava manetes lx, todo o conjunto faz diferença. Tempo bom.
What i hate are spongy hydraulic brakes. And I hate the black holes in the lines too, always swallowing the fluid into another dimension: Check everywhere, no leaks. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Repeat.
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How to fix spongy brakes (100% guaranteed cheap fix etc):
1. buy new brakes
@enriqueamaya3883bro get off RUclips immediatly
@enriqueamaya3883your pfp says otherwise.
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@enriqueamaya3883Brother gave a very selfish opinion ☝️
Follow not only Jesus pbuh but also Muhammad pbuh and come back to Allah ✊
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Only good advice for cable disc brakes
The trick I use for spongy brakes, that doesn't involve replacing anything, is to take the stretch out of the brake cable. Take up all the cable slack at the caliper, and wind out the barrel adjuster. Squeeze the brake lever as hard as you can. Keep taking up the slack until the cable won't stretch any more. I've gotten cheap mechanical brakes to feel just as solid as a set of hydraulic brakes.
Just gotta make sure alignment of the caliper and static pad are all good. This works.
@@MaYbYl8eR You bet! Alignment is especially critical on the rear brake, as you do need to account for cable stretch by having a tighter spacing between the pad and rotor.
Could you rephrase that trick? I’m having trouble understanding. Thanks!
@@NjAnderson118 What you want to do is take all the slack out of the system anywhere you can. Loosen the cable clamp at the caliper, and pull as much cable as you can. It doesn't matter if the pads are pressing against the rotor. Then wind out the cable adjusters. This will put the cable under tension. Finally squeeze the brake lever as hard as you can. At this point, you'll end up literally pulling the stretch out of the cable. Once you let go of the lever, you'll find that it's a bit looser than it was before.
Then wind the adjusters back in, loosen the cable clamp at the caliper, and pull more of the cable through. Tighten everything back up again, and keep repeating this process until you can't get the cable to stretch anymore.
As a bike mechanic myself. I completely agree with this statement
... and the answer is compressionless outer. No need for new callipers... And much cheaper.
Ivan knows the score!
Yes! I used to get Nokon but now have the JagWire segmented housing, and the mandrel-drawn cable, which is almost as important. It makes almost any cable actuated brake go from mediocre to excellent.
.. And you still would have spongy brakes 😯
It is essential to you use compressionless cable housings like Jagwire keb-sl and metal endcaps with mechanical disc brakes. I don't remember a bike manufacturer who does this from stock and it frightens. So drop the caliper upgrade and go to your lbs who knows his stuff 😁
Or just upgrade to the $70 shimano hydraulic brakes. 100 times better than those mechanical
Agreed, at this point hydro brakes are so cheap and good there's no reason to go mech in a single caliper setup.
i used these on my e scooter because it was a decent upgrade over stock that doesn't require me to route hydraulic lines and install motor cutoff switches. work decent. stops good from 35mph. IF i had a bike id go hydraulic because running the lines is easier. that trying to take everything apart and snake a cable in.
i have those mechanical shimanos and they perform really well
@@RenaxTM91
There are certain applications though where someone might still want mechanical brakes over hydraulic brakes. Adventure cyclists, bike backers, or tour riders value reliability and ease of repair over all else. It's far easier to replace a broken brake cable in the dark on the side of the road than it is to bleed a brake. Not to mention that a spare cable is easier to pack than a bleed kit and hydraulic fluid.
I'd rather have mechanical then hydraulic seriously the oil is ridiculously expensive.
Bruhh u can just change the cable with some adjustments still get rid of spongy brakes
The Tourney caliper is insanely powerful 👌🏽
Less expensive: replace the basic brake housing with compressionless housing.
I've found that you can get a cheap but good hydro two piston caliper for around the same price as a cheap mechanical one and way cheaper then a expensive mechanical one and the cheap hydro works pretty damn good which blew my mind the first time I tried it but tbh it really looks exactly the same design as a more expensive hydro brakes so I shouldn't have been so surprised I guess. I also have tried the line pull but hydro actuated meaning theres mechanical brake line going to the caliper but a hydro piston is connected to that so that it actuated both sides of the caliper and that worked pretty decently too and reduced the cost by not needing to buy a new lever system and master cylinder!!! But the cheap hydro caliper cost the same as that so if your willing to just spend $15 more for the lever and lines the hydro is def the way to go I think.
I did that same upgrade. Worked good enough for my needs.
The cable hose make it spongy.
Needs a new outter cable yeah.
These old calipers were the exact ones on my bike and the front one failed a week ago. Replaced them with the exact same ones on the video, except for silver color.
What a coincidence!
Spongy mechanical disk brakes replaced with spongy mechanical disk brakes. Rage bait.
I have always found mechanical brakes to be much better.
Переделал старый тормоз колодку на медный, из 4 мм шин и более 2600 тыс КМ пробегом на электорвелосипеде агрессивном езде .До сих пор как новый
Bro, at that point, just convert it to hydraulic
You can get Shimano hydraulic calipers, lines, and levers ready to run for like $60 and have like triple the stopping power.
Especially when you already have a separate shift and brake lever. My bike has a shift lever on the rear that also has mechanical brakes built in, so I’ve just got my front brake swapped to hydraulic and it makes a massive difference.
Good quality even entry level bikes are so expensive like a shimano deore good entry level groupset costs almost 500 cad just for thr gear system
So, an upgarde of the entire group set to include new cables. By the way, that bike needed some major service.
Thank you!!!
You adjusted those completely wrong and plus you dont need new ones, nice vid though👍🏻
My TX805 kinda feels spongy on the front brakes but i liked it
I got my mech disc brakes and levers set up soft like that on my Mongoose Switchback Expert but it still locks the back tire up. The disc calipers are Promax 310 and the levers are Shimano ST-EF51 shifter/brake combo. I readjusted them that way because they came too stiff from the factory.
Saving me a lot of money 💰
Avid bb7 is the best mechanical brake I’ve tried
Why change a perfectly functional brake caliper before replacing the brake cable.
I can smell the oil
God save us from cable disc brakes.
Put directly an idraulic braking system
Use brake housing ferrules and grind flat housing ends
Sorry cable disk brakes 😆😂😂😂😂😂😂 broki
Wow bro perfect working on bikemountain
No lube in the cable 🤔😭
Cheap up grade: buy a new bike, take off all the parts and sell the frame.
At that point just buy mt200s
Mt200 are chip and good brakes :)
Upgrades to still a single piston
Cheap upgrade for spongy brakes.. replace them with new ones that will get spongy ??
ngl this is first time i feel offended on the internet so much
You could just bleed the brake properly...
I had the cheapest set of hydraulic brakes on mine and i only just replaced them after 3 years because i converted it to ebike so needed ones with switches in (still the cheapest) and they never went spongey once
After like 4 years you have to bleed them still. Personally i do think good quality brakes is key on a ebike.
@@dashofawesome64 the only thing that needs to be good quality is the rotor and the pads.
Good quality steel surface on a floating rotor and good quality sintered or ceramic pads (if you use ceramic pads on poor quality discs the disc will wear thin in no time)
The rest of the brake system is simply a piston at the handlebar. Pressurised fluid in the hose and 2 pistons or more on the calliper.
Providing everything is sealed properly, no leaky reservoir or hoses. Then there are literally zero gains from a more expensive setup.
At most you might find that a premium brand will include either a single lever dual brake caliper with adjustable front and rear bias. Or an adjustable lever position.
Hell I even have cheap eBay levers on my 125cc scooter WITH adjustable parts. And that feels way better than the stock ones.
Stop paying more for known brands except for tyres, pads, discs, chains and chainrings/cassettes. Oh and frames/forks.
Everything else can be pretty much what you want.
Mechanical disk brakes is the worst type od brakes imo. Hydraulic disk brakes > v brakes > mechanical disc brakes
Basikal murah terbaik mantap
Bro really assembled a new caliper and cable with no type of lube 😔 shitmano so its okay
What is the problem with spongy? I like it that way
WOW. All the disadvantages of a steel-wire brake AND all the disadvantages of being able to boil your brake fluid. Utterly pointless!
Да выкинь ты эту механику, купи и поставить гидравлику.
It's a mechanical disc caliper, throw it in the bin!
"cheap upgrade"
proceeds to buy a new caliper
'-'
Do u really know what an "upgrade" is?
@@thampadua7261 ofc BUT he specifically said "cheap upgrade" last time i checked a whole new brake caliper isnt "cheap"
not saying the brake caliper is not an upgrade it just didnt fit the title
@@SomeoneKillMesmhI have that caliper it’s roughly 30 aud so would be even cheaper in America maybe 20 usd I don’t know
@@rxtrohmu2826 thats relatively cheap for a caliper i guess
Im crying in disbeliefe, it just needed a little adjustment or a new brake pad, but he changed the whole thing🤣🤣🤣🤣goddamn
No mention that Origin8 & other manufacturers make affordable compressionless housing for this very reason...
With a basically same brake 😅
@@romka_ind yup
@@mechanicaldavid4827 yup
@@mechanicaldavid4827exactly
A whole mt200 shimano front hydraulic brake is $50usd. Ready to attach, no bleeding or assembly. If you are beyond a well adjusted mechanical brake, that's your upgrade.
Lol right
I got an mt200 on my bike best brave ever
Right or MT201 its even better
Yep it's not worth to upgrade to a better mechanical caliper. Better buy the mt201 dam good and reliable brake.
@@alexoprea2407 If you had a better part lying around, for sure. I'd do that, especially for a commuter bike etc. But this project surely wasn't much cheaper and definitely took much longer than whacking a Shimano hydraulic on and having a better brake... first world problems I guess.
If its spongy there's an adjustment screw on the opposite side of the piston you just gotta center the rotor between the pads
This will reduce lever stroke to a certain degree but not remove the spongy characteristic .
@@robertmcfadyen9156however, that is only true for very low end mechanical calipers with a lot of flex. Once you're at mid level, it doesn't really improve anything to change the caliper. This video is a little misleading or oversimplified.
Some cheaper calipers also don't have any issues with flex. It's always worth a shot to adjust it first.
Bullshit my friend
For mechanical brakes that have the pull on one side like both of the ones that are shown here, you need to have the fixed pad as close to the rotor as possible, not centred. If they're centred on a single arm mechanical brake, there'll still be flex and uneven pad wear from the rotor flexing sideways to hit the fixed pad. Hydro brakes and BB7 style brakes should be centred though.
I still say the best upgrade for both hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes is a larger dia rotor as you need less force applying the brakes for the same amount of braking.
Freio Shimano é top, mesmo sendo mecanico.
Eu uso, e muito bom, diferente enorme das outras marcas
Haha cables are back not long now and rim brakes will be back to ;)
actually they are not back, cable disc brakes are in between rim and hydraulic disc brakes.
Only for the cheapscapes or idiots that beleve the bollocks these hydrophobes chat.
Spongy brake lever in mechanical setup is due to wrong cable sheaths. Use the correct stuff (compression resistant, axial strands) and you will improve greatly the performance.
This! Main reason new caliper can be less spongy is bigger pull ratio = weaker braking with worse modulation. Next would be disc distance from static pad and caliper rigidity.
Could you please go into detail about the different cable sheaths ? I'm new to this and doing everything I can to learn. My brakes haven't been operating properly and I'm still having issues.
Fix bad brakes, buy new brakes. Fail title😂
You need a dual piston caliper rathen than another new single piston.
When you move the arm up when making an adjustment you steal leverage from the brake and make it weaker. It’s a cheater way to adjust a disc brake. Proper way is to make sure the rotor is as straight as possible, align the caliper as close as possible to the brake pad that actually moves in when you pull the lever, use the adjuster on the caliper to move the brake pad on the other side over as close as possible without touching, then make sure the barrel adjuster is all the way screwed in on the lever, string the brake cable up and use a ferrule if it will fit, pull hard on the brake cable and make sure the brake arm is resting at its lowest position, while keeping tension on the brake cable with knipex or some grabbing tool use your other hand to pull the brake lever, this will help seat everything if you have installed new cable and housing, then once you have done this tighten the bolt to secure the cable to the brake arm. Pull the lever a few times hard to seat everything and then undo the cable and pull the slack out, look to see if you are able to move the non arm side pad anymore as often when you pull the brake the pads will settle in a little bit and you can sometimes get one more click out of the opposite adjuster side. The most important thing other than a properly bled brake for any disc braking system is a rotor that is dead straight. Use a rotor straightens gauge to get your rotor straight to within .01mm and you will have rock solid brakes that don’t rub, even when turning. I do this all day long at my shop and that rotor gauge tool is invaluable, it takes a lot of patience but once you get it the performance and reliability of disc brakes goes way up.
That's stupid. He could just change the pads or sand and clean them rotors too. Then adjust that will be cheaper and same effective. That video should be how to upgrade your brakes calliper. Fixing is not the same as upgrade with new brakes
Just get some cheap shimano MT 201 hydraulic brakes they’re inexpensive and have a ton more power than mechanical brakes
201's actually aren't that great .
@@robertmcfadyen9156 I didn’t say they were great I said they were an inexpensive upgrade that are better than mechanical brakes
@@dylanperschon8479 They are slightly better than aftermarket models .
@@robertmcfadyen9156 I have 200s (the version with the steel lever, the 201 has Aluminium levers) on a couple of bikes. If you don't need 2 or 1 finger levers and if you go for 180 mm rotors front and 160 rear they are good enough to balance the bike on the front wheel during braking.
Of course there are brakes with less lever force - but the 200s are comparable to a V brake bike in lever force, so you can switch between V brake bikes and disc brake bikes without the danger of overbraking and going over the bar
Mechanical brakes are terrible. Switch to hydraulic and never look back
Oh yeah? OH YEEAAAH????
OR... learn how to set up mechanical disk brakes🙌🏼
ayyyyy my guy@@mechanicaldavid4827
Frenos de disco de cable son una basura
Que fácil se ve cambiar y volver a ajustar un sistema de frenos y más cuando tienes todo para reemplazarlo ,pero cuando estás en un país clml Cuba donde cualquier pieza te vale un ojo y la mitad del otro hay que hacer reparaciones o reajustes para seguir tirando.
Or just align the caliper...
If you have a spongy brake
*GO* *BUY* *NEW* *BRAKE*
Where is updrade? That brakes are same. Upgrade is TRP spire for example
Just spend the $70aud and get the Shimano hydraulic brakes...problem solved
I have just thrown away hydraulic brakes because they are crap. I always do, even on my new gravel bike, £3000 first thing I do is remove anything hydraulic.
@@Chris66able You definetly doing something wrong,in my expirence hydraulic were the best brakes that i ever used
Spongy lever…replace everything 😂😂😂
Love my mechanical disc brakes there must be another issue 🤷♂️
Esse pinça Shimano e 100³X melhor
Cables ughhh
Hydraulics are great, but i much prefer to use Dual piston mechanicals like TRP Spyre, no Mineral Oil needed, very easy to service.
The true way to make these less spongy is to preload the clamping mechanism just a little bit. By clamping the cable with the mechanism already slightly engaged you decrease the pull distance necessary to effectively brake while leaving the gap between the pads and the rotor untouched
This is a hoax . Even with Shimano mechanical calipers , they are still a bit spongy . You are changing CANSUCC/UNIQUE brand ones for SHIMANO TX 801 or 475 .Good cable sheathing only reduces the sponginess slightly even when well lubricated as cable stretching under tension cannot be eliminated to achieve a crisp feel .
As a LBS mechanic, I can say you're not doing it right if you haven't achieved proper stopping power _after_ changing to compressionless housing. Even the worst mechanical brakes can be dialed in.
End result: a bit less spongy. Nice.
Or adjust your inboard stop. Most spongy brakes hit the rotor then continue to push it over more then 2mm to the other pad. Fix alignment and inboard before screwing the customer $100 for new calipers. ( I totally agree good calipers are better I have a set of Paul’s that are amazing but you don’t cost a customer money because your lazy.).
Those calipers are not 100$. Why are you talking shit.
@@MaYbYl8eR sir do you charge 0 for service .can I know your shop location
Such brakes are and always will be doughy!🤮🤮🤮
Why do you leave ugly creaking rotor? It has wrong perforations map. Such always creaks.
Bike shop guy here lol from my experience if your mechanical disc break feels spongy make sure that the caliper and cable are adjusted properly and if it's still spongy it's more likely that the housing has gotten old and worn out and it will literally compress and if it's bad you will see the housing tighten up and if that's the case it's a good idea to replace the cable aswell with the housing
and after that upgrade its still spongy
Brother naw naw naw
Theres a bolt that secures the lever blade to the lever, loosen that between half a turn and 2 turns and it will probably fix it
Schon mal was von hydraulischen bremsen gehört
mt201 hydraulic brake is just 30% more expensive
What was that thing you used in the cable
Mu je free me brek gift karo❤
Hydraulic for 20 pounds?
Why had not the outercasing be replaced too? The rest, fine work
Replace the housing with Shimano brake housing it's much better than the cheap OEM stuff. Grind the ends flat and poke an awl or sharpened broken spoke in the end a little bit of cable lubricant is good too. A thin coat of light grease on the cable is better than nothing though. Shimano cable grease is the best but expensive rock n roll cable magic is not bad
@@stevengagnon4777 SJ Clark cables and sheathing are also good .
Every time something goes wrong you just get a new part easy fix.
I did agree on your repair skills
What?
I like your videos very much
As I understand it's not your bike, otherwise it would be upgraded to hydraulic
My. Love🥰🎉❤
I'm consider changing mechanical brakes on my chinese ebike with hydraulic ones. With brake switches for the controller, of cource - and its not cheap. Factory-instaled brake rotors should be replaced too, they just suck. Well, "cheap" always means "expensive" in the end.
Never used mechanical disc brakes, are they bad?
They have their pros and cons, for example they are not as precise or powerful as hydraulics, but they don't suffer on wet conditions like V brakes, and they are easier to setup than hydraulics, that comes handy if you do tour long distances on your bike and ever need to service them in the middle of nowhere.
Regularly adjusting the stationary pad solved that problem for me . Why upgrade something when you can use an Allen key now and then
If you have a spongy brake
*GO* *BUY* *NEW* *BRAKE*
What? The upgrade still not satisfied during these day technology. Just replace using hydraulic brake it’s not expansive at all.
Size disk pls
Размер диска 160 или болше
I highly recommend Hydraulic disc breaks
Even though its expensive
Ficou menos pior. 😅 Freio mecânico top shimano era os M495, eu usava em rotores 203mm parava com tudo, freio macio, vc sente na manete as batidas no disco. Na época usava manetes lx, todo o conjunto faz diferença. Tempo bom.
Shimano makes great brakes.... except for that one. it's one of their single worst products.
Cheap upgrade is when I put in MTX pads. Not run new cables and install new brakes.
What i hate are spongy hydraulic brakes. And I hate the black holes in the lines too, always swallowing the fluid into another dimension:
Check everywhere, no leaks. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Top up the fluid. Seal the hole, squeeze the brakes a couple times. Open hole, notice the fluid level is low. Repeat.
Why Don't You Buy A Hydraulic Disc Brake?
Or just buy hydraulic ones for a little bit more than what you spent trying to fix your mechanical ones.
Can you a Hydraulic braking system.Be converted to straight mechanical brake system.