Thank you for going over hardware types and sizes in addition to detailed dimensions. So many videos fail to mention the hardware which is a critical part!
I made some changes to the design that work really well. I am not taking credit for the build design but a few changes that address some of the issues. I built them with southern yellow pine. For the table top I added some pocket holes with the blue Kreg outdoor screws to attach the edge grain together and stop the top from racking. I have had no issue with cracking or movement. They have held up well through two summers and winters in Texas. For the stretcher board I changed the notch. The problem I had was the small end piece of the notch would break off. I moved the cut out closer to the end and cut out an L shape instead of a notch. I make it so it slightly pushes the leg assembly outwards and added heavy brackets from Simpson Strong tie to bolt the stretcher to the leg cross piece once its dropped into the notch. I used some heavy carriage bolts to fasten it together after setup. This removed just about all movement once the table is unfolded and set up. They can easily be broken down for storage. Do not underestimate the weight of these tables! They are heavy!
@@allwedoisepicdotcom3907 they? I'm talking about that single piece. That dry knot could as well be hole, you have less than an inch of material in that place
For this simple design, just headlocks. Adjust as you see fit but we’ve had these now for a long time and not seeing any issues. I think if you’re gonna move them around a lot, from different rental location, def more reinforcement all over would be good. Ours stay in one spot.
Seems to me you might want to install 2 screws per board per crossboard. With your design there is only 3 screws holding each tabletop board in place. Also, I'd like to see the 4 additional leg screws installed a little more intentional. Measure in 1" on both boards & predrill so the screw heads don't look sloppy. Just one man's opinion though
totally agree. We're going to see how these perform and adjust. Just remember our title... "very simple, rustic, folding farm table," key word, very simple. :-)
Christopher Kinkade ,Really dude,the table is beautiful, looks sturdy,and functional...This man has his own template, he has measurements, and materials figured out all the way down to the amount of screws you use...He obviously has no issues renting, or selling what he makes,and he mass produces...Do you see the size of his warehouse...I bet for every piece of furniture you make,this guy makes 20 pieces...So I don't think you should be offering him advice,He's makings a living doing furniture...Your just one man that should have keep his opinion to himself though..!
Thanks for the great video. I,m currently pricing 2 inch thick kiln dried pine and its close to $4 a board foot up here in canada. Are you using air dried pine by chance.....?
@@allwedoisepicdotcom3907 oh ok, I have a mill not to far from me that sells air dried pine. will check them out in the morning, thanks for the reply ...
I built one of these and noticed some slop (wiggle) when moving the table horizontally length wise even with the bottom 68” leg support in good and tight. Have you noticed this at all and how have you fixed it? Thank you for such an awesome video and easy design!
Just a simple 30.00 grinder from any home improvement store. It takes the rough sawn wood down faster. Finish it with a sander if you want it finer smoothed . :-)
@@allwedoisepicdotcom3907 are you certain about that? The lumber and hardware cost is over $200. Add in the time to build, and shipping or delivery and it's a loss.
@@allwedoisepicdotcom3907 the stretcher that goes between the legs...how do you keep the end from snapping off being 2 inches from the end? I'm asking because I'm building one and decided to use 2x8 dimensional lumber instead. I cut the notch to tight on one end and I broke it. I know rough cut is 2 inches thick vs the 1.5 inch on dimensional lumber but the notch is so close to the end with the grain I'm concerned it could break and collapse.
Thank you for going over hardware types and sizes in addition to detailed dimensions. So many videos fail to mention the hardware which is a critical part!
Thanks. I've never built a table and I like this idea.
THANK YOU, GREAT IDEA YOU GAVE ME. I STORED YOUR VIDEO SO WHEN I MAKE THE LEGS
Wonderful! Glad it helped!
Thank you for this vid! Great detail. Excellent and simple design!
Welcome. Def needed a few adjustments, and using 1 x on top makes them lighter too. :-)
Cool place you have here, I would be thrilled with a third of the space!
I made some changes to the design that work really well. I am not taking credit for the build design but a few changes that address some of the issues.
I built them with southern yellow pine. For the table top I added some pocket holes with the blue Kreg outdoor screws to attach the edge grain together and stop the top from racking. I have had no issue with cracking or movement. They have held up well through two summers and winters in Texas.
For the stretcher board I changed the notch. The problem I had was the small end piece of the notch would break off. I moved the cut out closer to the end and cut out an L shape instead of a notch. I make it so it slightly pushes the leg assembly outwards and added heavy brackets from Simpson Strong tie to bolt the stretcher to the leg cross piece once its dropped into the notch. I used some heavy carriage bolts to fasten it together after setup. This removed just about all movement once the table is unfolded and set up. They can easily be broken down for storage.
Do not underestimate the weight of these tables! They are heavy!
Awesome thanks Sean!
Can you please post or send me a pic of your upgrades to the folding farm table? Thank you in advance!!🙂✌
Those are awesome! Thanks for easy explanation on assembly!!
Is that sawmill cut green lumber?
@@scotttrotter283 it’s def from a local rough cut sawmil and def pine. That’s the best we can say.
Man. You are awesome
Thank you for sharing.
Thank you. I’ll build one this week
Glad it helped Nick!
Thanks for Sharing
amazing table! also: 2:58 that gonna break...
They haven’t yet!
@@allwedoisepicdotcom3907 they? I'm talking about that single piece. That dry knot could as well be hole, you have less than an inch of material in that place
❤
Great design. Do you glue the table top boards? Or is it just the headlocks holding them together?
For this simple design, just headlocks. Adjust as you see fit but we’ve had these now for a long time and not seeing any issues. I think if you’re gonna move them around a lot, from different rental location, def more reinforcement all over would be good. Ours stay in one spot.
Seems to me you might want to install 2 screws per board per crossboard. With your design there is only 3 screws holding each tabletop board in place. Also, I'd like to see the 4 additional leg screws installed a little more intentional. Measure in 1" on both boards & predrill so the screw heads don't look sloppy. Just one man's opinion though
totally agree. We're going to see how these perform and adjust. Just remember our title... "very simple, rustic, folding farm table," key word, very simple. :-)
Christopher Kinkade ,Really dude,the table is beautiful, looks sturdy,and functional...This man has his own template, he has measurements, and materials figured out all the way down to the amount of screws you use...He obviously has no issues renting, or selling what he makes,and he mass produces...Do you see the size of his warehouse...I bet for every piece of furniture you make,this guy makes 20 pieces...So I don't think you should be offering him advice,He's makings a living doing furniture...Your just one man that should have keep his opinion to himself though..!
@@juschris7416 lol OK. Thanks for the assumptions.
Thanks for the great video. I,m currently pricing 2 inch thick kiln dried pine and its close to $4 a board foot up here in canada. Are you using air dried pine by chance.....?
I actually used wet pine direct from the mill. :-)
@@allwedoisepicdotcom3907 oh ok, I have a mill not to far from me that sells air dried pine. will check them out in the morning, thanks for the reply ...
I built one of these and noticed some slop (wiggle) when moving the table horizontally length wise even with the bottom 68” leg support in good and tight. Have you noticed this at all and how have you fixed it? Thank you for such an awesome video and easy design!
Hey Deven, we have not with any of ours yet. Glad you were able to make one though!
We're just north of Sarasota Springs. Where could we rent some of these tables in finished condition? They look great! Thanks.
We sold these ones to Entertainment One Rentals in Hudson Falls, great company!
How many people can be seated comfortably at this table?
8’ table, 8-10 depending on how big they are and if you use the ends or not.
curious to know how many boards were used per table?
I believe it was 10 total, 8' boards. :-) Rough sawn lumber here by us is about 7.00 per board.
what do you use to grind the top?
Just a simple 30.00 grinder from any home improvement store. It takes the rough sawn wood down faster. Finish it with a sander if you want it finer smoothed . :-)
What size lumber do you start with
All rough sawn from mill. 2 x 6 is what these are made of. You can use 1 x for top to make it lighter
@@allwedoisepicdotcom3907 thanks
how much do yo charge for one?
depends on the market you are in and how you modify it. scroll through comments as others have already asked. 🙂
How much do they weigh
Depending on the wood, 100 wet, 75 dry range.
How much do you charge to build those
usually around 250 or so minimum each.
@@allwedoisepicdotcom3907 are you certain about that? The lumber and hardware cost is over $200. Add in the time to build, and shipping or delivery and it's a loss.
@@seanbrotherton542 actually the cost is way under 200 and they take a half hour to build. This is rough sawn lumber, 8.00 a board max. :-)
@@allwedoisepicdotcom3907 the stretcher that goes between the legs...how do you keep the end from snapping off being 2 inches from the end? I'm asking because I'm building one and decided to use 2x8 dimensional lumber instead. I cut the notch to tight on one end and I broke it. I know rough cut is 2 inches thick vs the 1.5 inch on dimensional lumber but the notch is so close to the end with the grain I'm concerned it could break and collapse.
@@seanbrotherton542 actually since we made these we’ve added 5” L brackets on that exact spot for that reason.
How do I buy one? Lol
You build them! If you’re local to upstate NY we could build one for you.