Awesome video! I have a gx340 on a BCS walking tractor and I was having trouble with the recoil starting. I thought it was the lashing; I adjusted it and the engine started fine, for a day. After watching your video, I think it might be the decompression on the camshaft, plus your lashing adjustment tutorial was also clutch! I'm a farmer so I can't afford a mechanic so I'm very thankful for this!
Just make sure that the piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke, and also watch those threads on the lock nut. We have problems with them stripping during the adjustment process from time to time. Glad this video was able to help...
This is a very easy video to follow for mechanical and non to follow. Just throwing out an idea here since you added a bunch additional helpful tips. . As I’m sure you know dipstick grid just shows when sensor will trip, hence reason I cut that part off on all our “new” engines and tell everyone level and running out the hole is good to go.
Tank u for your video it help me a lot. i work in portugal in a stihl shop but we do other engines like honda and tank u. keep going with the great work.
I think they say 120 degrees so that all rings are away from the edge of of the wrist pin cut out on piston, I put them 4 corners inward from the wrist pin edges 180 degrees from one another. 4 corners and the expander ring just in front of me looking at the piston.
Awesome video and information ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ I have both a GX390 (DeWalt DH4240) and a GX200 (DeWalt DXPW3625) supplying juice to a 4200 and 3600 PSI power washers, respectively. Just ordered an electric start kit (shout out to The Magician Metal Fab) for the GX390 the knowledge gathered from this video will certainly come in handy.
What a great edicational video. Thank you. Recoil starter locked up and on disassembly I discovered four teeth had broken off my balance shaft. Ok, so I am reassembling now and just wanted to know that with only the flywheel and the crankshaft installed (no piston installed) if one grabs the flywheel and the end of the crankshaft should there be any "wiggle" if jiggling the crank side to side or should this be rock solid?
I'm guessing your crankcase cover isn't on at this point because your piston isn't installed........ If this is the case, then it would have wiggle back and forth. When all assembled the service manual does not have a spec for crankshaft end play. I small amount would be considered normal though.......
Yes there are GX390s without a gear reduction drive. I have one on my pressure washer, attached to a Cat 66DX pump. 4000 PSI, 4.0GPM output from the 13HP engine.
Good Video - So was wondering on the lifters - in my kit i got there are two different sizes of lifters - cant fgure out which one goes where - when taking apart the motor they fell out and didn't think about which one goes where?? Is the thicker one for the intake? any help would be great thank you
As far as I can see in a parts manual that there is only one part number for both lifters. They should be identical………..unless your model of the engine is different for some strange reason.
It doesn’t have an oil pump like all small engines that do not have an oil filter. Instead it uses the “slinger” on the connecting rod cap to dip into the oil and throw it. It is called “splash” lubrication. Works well in simple one cylinder engines.
Is it possible to get the timing 180 degrees out and the engine runs,but not good? The timing marks are not well marked on my engine. Thanks very much.
If the camshaft and crankshaft were 180 degrees out the compression stroke would not happen because the exhaust valve would be open......... So it would not run 180 out.
Hey man, I don't know if you are still monitoring the messages here, but please help me to settle a long time discussion about this engine assembly: at 57:31 you say that the rotator needs to be placed on the exhaust valve. I have heard people that says that should be placed in both, and people saying that the rotator should be placed on the INTAKE valve, cause what it actualy does, it is to prevent the valve to rotate. Any words on that please ?
There is only one rotator that comes stock on these Honda engines and they are located on the exhaust valve. The rotator causes the valve to rotate a little every time it opens and closes. This prevents a large amount of carbon build-up. I suppose you could put one on the intake valve and adjust the valve clearance accordingly. I doubt it would affect the valve seal much……… I would just have one on the exhaust valve and have faith in those Honda engineer men and women lol
@@kartaroundtheworld I was also thinking the valve retainer on top of the spring has a special cutout for the rotator on the exhaust valve. So you would need to change the retainer on the intake valve to accommodate it. Cheers!!
I bought my 389cc engine used on Trail wagon 400. I have the engine out on my work stand. I took the side cover to get at the rod. The clearance on the rod is .002 = no loose rod. Cannot find anything wrong inside. The compression release seems to work ok. I have watched other videos and ever Honda 389 is noisy.
The shaft of our bolts are large like an 8mm but the threads are a 6mm. We broke quite a few of them torquing to 17. We go to 7. At the end it just needs to contact the gasket all the way around. Not my favourite design…….
@@autotech4103 Good to know. I have a GX390 with the cover off right now to adjust valve lash. Should be putting it back together tomorrow. I'll stick to 7 lb-ft. This particular engine is circa 2009, and I have no desire to break things.
Love the video...I have a question. my block seems to have stress cracks so I got a used block. The cylinder sleeve ID is 3.467 in all areas. The spec I think is 3.4646 to 3.4652 and the service limit is 3.4710. Is this block a lose cause as its outside the spec? It goes on a 8000watt generator. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance
The 3.4646 to 3.4652 is the standard spec, which means that brand new Honda blocks come within that range. If service limit is 3.4710 then you have .003 to spare which is a good block.
@@autotech4103 I have returned. Had engine running good but has recently started failing output shaft seals? On the last one I replaced I measured the temp of the crankshaft right at the oil seal. The temp climbed to 193F and that when the oil starts leaking past the seal :( The engine sounds good and runs great...any thoughts?
@@vanover69 I have never measured the temp of the crankshaft while it’s running. Interesting……… as far as the rear main seal I would suspect the rear main bearing. If it has a rough race or is loose it would cause heat and looseness. I don’t think 193 F is necessarily too hot. Vehicles run with 215 F thermostats all the time.
One more question I hope you can provide your thoughts on. I have a crankshaft on my GX390 that is that is .0004 beyond (4.1416) its service limits (1.415). This condition is only on one spot...all other measurements are at or above the service limit. This engine drives a generator and I dont believe the cranks are not available currently. The engine ran great, but I hate putting this back together with this condition. It does have an out of round condition on the journal of 0.0017 worst case.There are no oversized bearing for this motor. Any thoughts/advice on using this crank?
Your local machine shop might build up your journal and machine it to the standard spec. I may contemplate just using the out of spec crankshaft but I would base that on the oil clearance. Plastigage the crank pin in that worst spot and see what it is……
I accidentally seized my 2017 Honda snowblower HSS1331ATD GX390T2, the name of the Honda engine shop manual calls for. I cannot source another engine through my local CT Honda Power Equipment dealer because this model was discontinued. Northern Tool said it's actually a GX3902JDS2 engine per their technical support team. This video is very helpful for visual awareness and education however my engine without a doubt galled at the rod bearing because I can't turn the crankshaft at all. Need advice or I'd love to be a student if you're in the New England area. I've worked on cars since 1983 so I think I can attempt this rebuild. Thank you but I'd like some options to consider.
@@xravenhairsexgod maybe my school will allow a field trip to New England, but I am out of Manitoba, Canada. Your Honda 390 should be similar to the one in my video. You will be able to handle it no problem. Time to take that engine apart and find the cause of the seizure. Good Luck
Thank you for this video!! I’m bought a new gx390 to disassemble and reassemble with my kids. You mentioned replacing some of the bolts so the engine doesn’t get damages through multiple rebuilds. Do you happen to know which bolts should be replaced and do you happen to have the specs so I could buy ahead of time? Doing this with a 6 and 9 year old. Should be fun. 😀 Thanks!
The 6mm thread bolts that hold on the exterior red covers have scarred threads so they don’t back out. I would change them out for regular flange head bolts. 6mm x 10 works for all of them
Hard to pull problems could be a bad decompression lever on cam, bent lower end component, something rubbing on the flywheel like the ignition coil, or the stump grinder is still engaged. I would check the stump grinder first. Compression test. Then pull covers to check on coil.
No, if your compression is too high it is most likely that the valve clearance is too much. Recheck the adjustment. Make sure the piston is at top dead center of its compression stroke. Intake valve should be 0.006” and the exhaust valve should be 0.008”.
The oil level sensor grounds the ignition coil (shuts it off) when oil level is low. If you disconnect the oil level switch the engine will run again unprotected.
Wish you had started it....great video. Am rebuilding a GX340 for a Honda snowblower right now and even though have rebuilt other engines it was worth the 2 hours to learn a couple new things. You did not mention whether you should use special break in oil with zinc or should it be dino or synthetic. Also how many hours is break in period at what rpms before changing . Thanks.
www.agrisupply.com/images/art/096-097.pdf Here is a diagram with all the part numbers. You can order from Amazon, EBay or your local Honda small engine dealer. I’d advise looking up the part numbers using your model and engine type codes that are stamped on the engine block
What a great video! I feel very confident with the job I have for my gx390 now I just need a bit of guidance choosing the parts. I have a gx390 (GCANK) it has a tapered shaft and I need to swap the crank shaft for a straight 1" keyway shaft, I've seen the parts available but I'm unsure if any for a 390 will fit as they all look the same (I need aftermarket unfortunately as I could buy another engine for what honda charge) hope you can help 👍
I’m sure the parts will fit as Honda makes many GX390 with different variations to accommodate things like tapered and keyed shafts. I don’t know what type of information you get for the aftermarket part, but if you can get the specs for the crankpin and the main bearing journals, I would compare that with the original found in the service manual….
@Autotechcp thank you very much for your response, finding any measurements on an aftermarket part is proving difficult they just say Q type or S type ect if they could just say all internals measurements are the same and the outer shaft differs depending on the accessory that would be great 🤣 separate note I did a motor mechanics course when I was younger, never would of quit after 2years if it was taught like your video (we have dull uninterested teachers in England) thanks
So I've discovered that the said Q and S type refer only to the exterior shaft you require all internals are the same, only difference I found was the camshafts are different, the one for the straight shaft has (guess) twice as many teeth than the tapered shaft. Do you know why? Is it a speed ratio thing? Either way, I swapped them.now just waiting for my gaskets and oil and fingers crossed 🤞
I have just replaced the crankshaft on a GX340 that l had to replace so as to accommodate a pressure washer pump. Prior to disassembly this was a sweet running motor, first pull start. After reassembly l replaced the oil, gaped the coil, verified spark and compression but it is not firing, l had correctly aligned the timing gear marks and the balance shaft marks reinserted the push rods, and re torqued all bolts to spec. The motor pull thru fine, no "unusual" sounds. Fuel is full and entering carb bowl correctly, partially choked, fuel on, ignition switch on, plug wire connected, all appears to be correct but it is simply not firing, l even tried a shot of quick start spray but it is simply not firing, l am prepared to disassemble if necessary to re verify timing marks should it be necessary but hope you may be able to offer a solution or tell me there is something to be done. I had not removed the head so l did not think valve adjustment was require as the lifters were just reinserted with the cam. I also would like to take this opportunity to complement you on producing an excellent series of videos.
air, fuel, spark, compression and timing are all needed. Don't look past a faulty spark plug that has spark when you remove it but doesn't spark between the electrodes when mounted in the head. Spraying a fuel in eliminates fuel. You checked compression. The only other thing than timing I would check is a "flooded" engine. Too much fuel can be an issue. I would buy a new spark plug before disassembly to check timing.
@@autotech4103 The spark plug had been functional this morning when l ran the engine prior to disassembly, the one thing that had troubled me was whether or not it is necessary to readjust the valves, it has been a long time since l worked in the trade and at 72 my mind sometimes forgets :) I understand what you are saying about spraying in a fuel but it would not even fire using that starter fluid and the plug was not wet when checked, and as l said the carb has not been removed or the head as l was just doing the crankshaft replacement and it was running earlier today just fine. Thanks for the rapid reply..much appreciated.
@@davebl9645 you will need to re-adjust the valves. Usually if the valve adjustment is off then you won't have compression. These engines will run with about 40-60psi.
now i realize that my valves were so bad adjusted, my engines needs .15 (006 inch) on exit valve i had it (015 inches) wich means .381 mm, im an idiot.
@@autotech4103 i installed billet flywheel, reinforced piston rod, 30 mm carb, and all spark plugs get really dry black, also the exit valve gap is always changing, now i realize that i had the wrong measures. so many people helped me and none saw the damm error.
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i think the welding and autotech shop are my favorite places in corcus
Right on man. Pretty good places to gain some skills.
This is a great channel. Glad I found this. No Donny Boy or Taryl tonight! Nice job thank you.
Thanks for the kind words Brian. Appreciated😬
Awesome video! I have a gx340 on a BCS walking tractor and I was having trouble with the recoil starting. I thought it was the lashing; I adjusted it and the engine started fine, for a day. After watching your video, I think it might be the decompression on the camshaft, plus your lashing adjustment tutorial was also clutch! I'm a farmer so I can't afford a mechanic so I'm very thankful for this!
Just make sure that the piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke, and also watch those threads on the lock nut. We have problems with them stripping during the adjustment process from time to time. Glad this video was able to help...
This is a very easy video to follow for mechanical and non to follow. Just throwing out an idea here since you added a bunch additional helpful tips. . As I’m sure you know dipstick grid just shows when sensor will trip, hence reason I cut that part off on all our “new” engines and tell everyone level and running out the hole is good to go.
I thought past the top of the grid would get whipped by the crankshaft and create foaming. I'll check this out with my next one apart..........
Tank u for your video it help me a lot. i work in portugal in a stihl shop but we do other engines like honda and tank u. keep going with the great work.
Portugal is awesome. Maybe you can get me a job there?? Lol
I think they say 120 degrees so that all rings are away from the edge of of the wrist pin cut out on piston, I put them 4 corners inward from the wrist pin edges 180 degrees from one another. 4 corners and the expander ring just in front of me looking at the piston.
I put them 180 from each other as well. 120 seems to me could turn into the wrist pin area. It’s all good
Great Video, loved watching it thank you.
That’s great to hear. Glad you could make use of the info
Thank you so much for sharing 👍, I’am learning how to do it
Awesome video and information ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ I have both a GX390 (DeWalt DH4240) and a GX200 (DeWalt DXPW3625) supplying juice to a 4200 and 3600 PSI power washers, respectively. Just ordered an electric start kit (shout out to The Magician Metal Fab) for the GX390 the knowledge gathered from this video will certainly come in handy.
Good stuff!! I’m glad I was able to help
What a great edicational video. Thank you. Recoil starter locked up and on disassembly I discovered four teeth had broken off my balance shaft. Ok, so I am reassembling now and just wanted to know that with only the flywheel and the crankshaft installed (no piston installed) if one grabs the flywheel and the end of the crankshaft should there be any "wiggle" if jiggling the crank side to side or should this be rock solid?
I'm guessing your crankcase cover isn't on at this point because your piston isn't installed........
If this is the case, then it would have wiggle back and forth. When all assembled the service manual does not have a spec for crankshaft end play. I small amount would be considered normal though.......
Yes there are GX390s without a gear reduction drive. I have one on my pressure washer, attached to a Cat 66DX pump. 4000 PSI, 4.0GPM output from the 13HP engine.
Sounds like a nice washer!!
@@autotech4103 I have a 3D printable file that may really help your students if you'd like it. How can I e-mail it to you? Its for the gx390
Thank you
You're welcome
Good Video - So was wondering on the lifters - in my kit i got there are two different sizes of lifters - cant fgure out which one goes where - when taking apart the motor they fell out and didn't think about which one goes where?? Is the thicker one for the intake? any help would be great thank you
As far as I can see in a parts manual that there is only one part number for both lifters. They should be identical………..unless your model of the engine is different for some strange reason.
Congratulations for your video.
I have a doubt.
How the oil flows into the engine?
I haven't seen an oil pump.
Thank you.
It doesn’t have an oil pump like all small engines that do not have an oil filter. Instead it uses the “slinger” on the connecting rod cap to dip into the oil and throw it. It is called “splash” lubrication. Works well in simple one cylinder engines.
@@autotech4103 thank you.
I didn't know this
Is it possible to get the timing 180 degrees out and the engine runs,but not good? The timing marks are not well marked on my engine. Thanks very much.
If the camshaft and crankshaft were 180 degrees out the compression stroke would not happen because the exhaust valve would be open......... So it would not run 180 out.
Thanks, I am pretty sure the timing was one tooth off. I corrected that. Now to find a new gasket. Any tips where?
@@JohnSmith-yn8pl We just use our local Honda dealer. But they are readily available on Amazon or ebay as well
Hey man, I don't know if you are still monitoring the messages here, but please help me to settle a long time discussion about this engine assembly: at 57:31 you say that the rotator needs to be placed on the exhaust valve. I have heard people that says that should be placed in both, and people saying that the rotator should be placed on the INTAKE valve, cause what it actualy does, it is to prevent the valve to rotate. Any words on that please ?
There is only one rotator that comes stock on these Honda engines and they are located on the exhaust valve. The rotator causes the valve to rotate a little every time it opens and closes. This prevents a large amount of carbon build-up. I suppose you could put one on the intake valve and adjust the valve clearance accordingly. I doubt it would affect the valve seal much……… I would just have one on the exhaust valve and have faith in those Honda engineer men and women lol
@@autotech4103 thanks for replying ! I think this settles the discussion ! hahaha
@@kartaroundtheworld I was also thinking the valve retainer on top of the spring has a special cutout for the rotator on the exhaust valve. So you would need to change the retainer on the intake valve to accommodate it. Cheers!!
I have a Honda 389cc engine in a UTV. Why do these Honda engine sound so noisy , like loose parts inside them? Not exhaust noise. Thanks
If it is rattling it could be valve adjustment too loose? Did you have it from new? Has it always been loud?
I bought my 389cc engine used on Trail wagon 400. I have the engine out on my work stand. I took the side cover to get at the rod. The clearance on the rod is .002 = no loose rod. Cannot find anything wrong inside. The compression release seems to work ok. I have watched other videos and ever Honda 389 is noisy.
Valve cover bolt on the GX390 is 24N-m, or 17 lb-ft.
The shaft of our bolts are large like an 8mm but the threads are a 6mm. We broke quite a few of them torquing to 17. We go to 7. At the end it just needs to contact the gasket all the way around. Not my favourite design…….
@@autotech4103 Good to know. I have a GX390 with the cover off right now to adjust valve lash. Should be putting it back together tomorrow. I'll stick to 7 lb-ft. This particular engine is circa 2009, and I have no desire to break things.
Love the video...I have a question. my block seems to have stress cracks so I got a used block. The cylinder sleeve ID is 3.467 in all areas. The spec I think is 3.4646 to 3.4652 and the service limit is 3.4710. Is this block a lose cause as its outside the spec? It goes on a 8000watt generator. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance
The 3.4646 to 3.4652 is the standard spec, which means that brand new Honda blocks come within that range. If service limit is 3.4710 then you have .003 to spare which is a good block.
Thank you so much. That makes perfect since. Now for the fun part…rebuilding 😊
@@autotech4103 I have returned. Had engine running good but has recently started failing output shaft seals? On the last one I replaced I measured the temp of the crankshaft right at the oil seal. The temp climbed to 193F and that when the oil starts leaking past the seal :( The engine sounds good and runs great...any thoughts?
@@vanover69 I have never measured the temp of the crankshaft while it’s running. Interesting……… as far as the rear main seal I would suspect the rear main bearing. If it has a rough race or is loose it would cause heat and looseness. I don’t think 193 F is necessarily too hot. Vehicles run with 215 F thermostats all the time.
One more question I hope you can provide your thoughts on. I have a crankshaft on my GX390 that is that is .0004 beyond (4.1416) its service limits (1.415). This condition is only on one spot...all other measurements are at or above the service limit. This engine drives a generator and I dont believe the cranks are not available currently. The engine ran great, but I hate putting this back together with this condition. It does have an out of round condition on the journal of 0.0017 worst case.There are no oversized bearing for this motor. Any thoughts/advice on using this crank?
Your local machine shop might build up your journal and machine it to the standard spec. I may contemplate just using the out of spec crankshaft but I would base that on the oil clearance. Plastigage the crank pin in that worst spot and see what it is……
By any chance you might know why a honda gx270 starter rope kicks back when i want to turn it on? I changed the coil and nothing
Was the engine taken apart? I find you can get too high of compression if valve clearance is too loose. It makes it very difficult to pull start.
@@autotech4103 yes it was taken apart was putting in new piston rings because it was smoking alot. So it might be my valve clearance?
@@autotech4103 it almost broke my finger lol i went in strong and kickback real hard
@@Gamer-yj8ow yes. It is almost certain.
@@Gamer-yj8ow ruclips.net/video/hfDqqqztoMY/видео.html
Thanks for using metric system !
You gotta use both depending on manuals for sure…….
@@autotech4103 hello, could you share a link with the torque specs of this engine (bolts) ?
@@kartaroundtheworld www.red-d-arc.com/pdf/HONDA%20GX390%20UT2%20SHOP%20MANUAL.PDF
I accidentally seized my 2017 Honda snowblower HSS1331ATD GX390T2, the name of the Honda engine shop manual calls for. I cannot source another engine through my local CT Honda Power Equipment dealer because this model was discontinued. Northern Tool said it's actually a GX3902JDS2 engine per their technical support team. This video is very helpful for visual awareness and education however my engine without a doubt galled at the rod bearing because I can't turn the crankshaft at all. Need advice or I'd love to be a student if you're in the New England area. I've worked on cars since 1983 so I think I can attempt this rebuild. Thank you but I'd like some options to consider.
@@xravenhairsexgod maybe my school will allow a field trip to New England, but I am out of Manitoba, Canada. Your Honda 390 should be similar to the one in my video. You will be able to handle it no problem. Time to take that engine apart and find the cause of the seizure. Good Luck
Whats the diffrens in this prusidure with gx340?
Pretty much everything is the same. They use the same shop manual
Thank you for this video!! I’m bought a new gx390 to disassemble and reassemble with my kids. You mentioned replacing some of the bolts so the engine doesn’t get damages through multiple rebuilds. Do you happen to know which bolts should be replaced and do you happen to have the specs so I could buy ahead of time? Doing this with a 6 and 9 year old. Should be fun. 😀 Thanks!
The 6mm thread bolts that hold on the exterior red covers have scarred threads so they don’t back out. I would change them out for regular flange head bolts. 6mm x 10 works for all of them
the stump grinder was working and stop when I try to turn on back again the pull recoil starter is hard to pulling , what suggestion you may have ?
Hard to pull problems could be a bad decompression lever on cam, bent lower end component, something rubbing on the flywheel like the ignition coil, or the stump grinder is still engaged. I would check the stump grinder first. Compression test. Then pull covers to check on coil.
thank you I will try hopefully still working
If your balance rod timing is off, can that create too much compression?
No, if your compression is too high it is most likely that the valve clearance is too much. Recheck the adjustment. Make sure the piston is at top dead center of its compression stroke. Intake valve should be 0.006” and the exhaust valve should be 0.008”.
Hi if the oil level swith are broke the stump grinder will not work ?
The oil level sensor grounds the ignition coil (shuts it off) when oil level is low. If you disconnect the oil level switch the engine will run again unprotected.
Wish you had started it....great video. Am rebuilding a GX340 for a Honda snowblower right now and even though have rebuilt other engines it was worth the 2 hours to learn a couple new things. You did not mention whether you should use special break in oil with zinc or should it be dino or synthetic. Also how many hours is break in period at what rpms before changing . Thanks.
Thanks Anthony. I’ll have to post a video of lil tricks and starting one. Thanks for the feedback
Where did you buy the piston and rings from?
www.agrisupply.com/images/art/096-097.pdf
Here is a diagram with all the part numbers. You can order from Amazon, EBay or your local Honda small engine dealer. I’d advise looking up the part numbers using your model and engine type codes that are stamped on the engine block
@@autotech4103 thank you
What a great video! I feel very confident with the job I have for my gx390 now I just need a bit of guidance choosing the parts.
I have a gx390 (GCANK) it has a tapered shaft and I need to swap the crank shaft for a straight 1" keyway shaft, I've seen the parts available but I'm unsure if any for a 390 will fit as they all look the same (I need aftermarket unfortunately as I could buy another engine for what honda charge) hope you can help 👍
I’m sure the parts will fit as Honda makes many GX390 with different variations to accommodate things like tapered and keyed shafts. I don’t know what type of information you get for the aftermarket part, but if you can get the specs for the crankpin and the main bearing journals, I would compare that with the original found in the service manual….
@Autotechcp thank you very much for your response, finding any measurements on an aftermarket part is proving difficult they just say Q type or S type ect if they could just say all internals measurements are the same and the outer shaft differs depending on the accessory that would be great 🤣 separate note I did a motor mechanics course when I was younger, never would of quit after 2years if it was taught like your video (we have dull uninterested teachers in England) thanks
So I've discovered that the said Q and S type refer only to the exterior shaft you require all internals are the same, only difference I found was the camshafts are different, the one for the straight shaft has (guess) twice as many teeth than the tapered shaft. Do you know why? Is it a speed ratio thing? Either way, I swapped them.now just waiting for my gaskets and oil and fingers crossed 🤞
I have just replaced the crankshaft on a GX340 that l had to replace so as to accommodate a pressure washer pump. Prior to disassembly this was a sweet running motor, first pull start. After reassembly l replaced the oil, gaped the coil, verified spark and compression but it is not firing, l had correctly aligned the timing gear marks and the balance shaft marks reinserted the push rods, and re torqued all bolts to spec.
The motor pull thru fine, no "unusual" sounds. Fuel is full and entering carb bowl correctly, partially choked, fuel on, ignition switch on, plug wire connected, all appears to be correct but it is simply not firing, l even tried a shot of quick start spray but it is simply not firing, l am prepared to disassemble if necessary to re verify timing marks should it be necessary but hope you may be able to offer a solution or tell me there is something to be done.
I had not removed the head so l did not think valve adjustment was require as the lifters were just reinserted with the cam.
I also would like to take this opportunity to complement you on producing an excellent series of videos.
air, fuel, spark, compression and timing are all needed. Don't look past a faulty spark plug that has spark when you remove it but doesn't spark between the electrodes when mounted in the head. Spraying a fuel in eliminates fuel. You checked compression. The only other thing than timing I would check is a "flooded" engine. Too much fuel can be an issue. I would buy a new spark plug before disassembly to check timing.
@@autotech4103 The spark plug had been functional this morning when l ran the engine prior to disassembly, the one thing that had troubled me was whether or not it is necessary to readjust the valves, it has been a long time since l worked in the trade and at 72 my mind sometimes forgets :)
I understand what you are saying about spraying in a fuel but it would not even fire using that starter fluid and the plug was not wet when checked, and as l said the carb has not been removed or the head as l was just doing the crankshaft replacement and it was running earlier today just fine. Thanks for the rapid reply..much appreciated.
@@davebl9645 you will need to re-adjust the valves. Usually if the valve adjustment is off then you won't have compression. These engines will run with about 40-60psi.
ruclips.net/video/hfDqqqztoMY/видео.html
Reset the valves...runs like a top!
👍💯💯 good.job👌👌👌
Thank you. Glad to be appreciated😎
You’ve got to be in Canada. Your accent it thick 😂
You nailed it!!
Exelente video thank you
Your Welcome
LoveGX390...ผมชอบครับช่าง...💘💘💘💘❤❤❤❤👍👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏🙏...LAOS...
Love. Video... 💘💘💘💘💘👍👍👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
now i realize that my valves were so bad adjusted, my engines needs .15 (006 inch) on exit valve i had it (015 inches) wich means .381 mm, im an idiot.
Can happen to anyone. Not a hard fix…….
@@autotech4103 i installed billet flywheel, reinforced piston rod, 30 mm carb, and all spark plugs get really dry black, also the exit valve gap is always changing, now i realize that i had the wrong measures. so many people helped me and none saw the damm error.
Moi spisyal travail an honda
ผมชอบครับ
Someone is going to have to help me with translation…..
@@autotech4103 it means "I like it" in thai
Tickety-boo and good??? What in the hell Who taught you to speak
No one that I bothered to listen to. Now I’m shaping young minds to say their own tickety-boo. Lol
Myeimopomyeimopmemyeimopo is a good place for the company and a good example for the rest are you and your partner is a good
Alrighty then