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DC amperage draw gets much higher than that on bigger starters and bigger motors. This a just a lil draw

www.thingiverse.com/thing:5712775/files

@@Jhovan33 I’ve read that as well.

Thanks!

Depending on the vehicle and system this is normal. But don’t think of it as the front driveshaft driving the front diff as much as the front wheels is turning the front diff which in turns spins the driveshaft.

@@autotech4103 the front wheels are disconnected from the differential in 2wd using the iwes

Did you jack up the wheels to check the IWES operation?

@@autotech4103 Yes. Everything works but just is getting very noisy. ]I assumed the front drive shaft should dissconnect in 2wd but I'm finding out that is not the case. With 4A it seems that the front shaft always turns even if the vehicle is in 2wd. Since I've changed both front axles and front wheel bearings, the only things that could be making noise would be front drive shaft or front diff.

Does the noise only happen during acceleration, or is it noisy in coast (foot off accelerator). Does it shake the vehicle?

Nah, I teach the course.

Not on the rims I’m seeing on a daily basis

Never forced to use it and glad

Could be the shift motor or possibly wear in the shift forks making it more difficult.

Modern transfer cases are good either way. Just don’t be applying acceleration to the motor. I coast while moving or do it while parked. Whichever is convenient at the time.

Nice, I guess I have a fixable coupler sitting around. A lot of people are not fixing the miled out ones that aren’t worth much. I bet there is a lot of these couplers on shelves.

Enjoy your printer. Glad it helped.

I do not……

Your welcome, King

Does the noise happen in 2WD and 4WD?

I appreciate it.

I have only ran two harvests of lettuce, but both times it worked good. Both had a small amount of natural light available

Right on! Great comment

I’m happy you liked it

Just power it on. It will turn the pump on for a period of time. If it isn’t enough to prime, then just start it up again. Takes 3-4 times

The decompression lever on the camshaft could be faulty. Also the valves need to be set with the piston at TDC of the compression stroke. If it was set in any other position, that could cause it as well

@ thanks. I will look into the decompression lever. Need to find videos on that.

@@autotech4103 I wonder if it’s the decompression release lever if it would be under Honda’s Warranty. It’s not a very old machine.

@ they have grounds to deny you if it’s been put together incorrectly. It’s worth a go….

I won’t give you the speech about the size of the boat not being important…..lol

Definitely a good visual trainer. Thanks for the comment

I bought a ceramic pot that had close dimensions to a 5 gallon pail. I wanted a more attractive pail. I had to modify the lid file to get it to work properly.

@@autotech4103 It looks like a production tower! Very nice!!

@ it works very well

Because Orca slicer and Bambu studio are very trendy right now. Cura confuses a lot of people and they opt for more custom profiles in Orca. I use both, and spend more time with Orca as well. Cura works just fine.

@@autotech4103 Cura doesn't let you do things like edit supports and strengthen parts of an object tho.

@ that’s some of the main reasons to use Orca. For beginner printers printing off of thingiverse, they would never try those things. Lots of young kids have printers as well. I recommend Orca. But I can also make Cura work most of the time just fine.

@@autotech4103 I used cura for a while, but I just tried Creality Print 5 and its alot nicer.

Yes I can

ruclips.net/video/-0MGo_pCm_M/видео.html

Right on! The way these printers operate, I can assume the filament must be top notch as well in the process. It’s that one variable that can definitely have inconsistencies through out the roll. I send you clogless wishes.

Glad you enjoyed it!!

I would first rule of the driveline as it would be difficult to distinguish. Removing the front driveshaft could help in the process to eliminate it from the equation. Loose chain could cause a chain slap or tick for sure.

@autotech4103 would it still drive if I removed the front drive shaft ? I did think possibly the chain. I'm absolutely gutted I love this car. Thank you for your reply it's much appreciated

@ yes, it would drive just fine

@autotech4103 I thought it would on most but it's a RR sport so has silly computers and such and it's not switchable from 4x4 to 2wd like most 4x4 are. No harm in trying I suppose. Thanks :)

@ it will probably trigger a traction control/ABS light. You can just disconnect the battery to clear them after diagnosis.

1.5inches is very extreme. The big screws under the bed that have the springs must be completely compressed. I’d start by letting the bed go up by turning those screws in the direction that releases the spring tension. Then I’d bed level and set zoffset like in this video.

@@autotech4103 they were actually completely decompressed. the biggest issue was that when I would hit auto level it wouldn't do anything except go to home and stay far off the plate. I ended up removing the bottom Pannel and checking all of the mother board wiring and it turns out there was a loose connection. running my first print now!

@ happy printing!!

The LED lights get hot on the metal backing side of them. You don’t want them contacting the plant or it kills it.

You are very welcome!

Is this after you are driving at highway speed? Could be a torque converter that isn’t unlocking??

@@autotech4103 yeah perfectly. When im pressing that gas harder or when im forcing that car there is this problem. Can you tell me what is this please ?

@@SaimirAllaraj not over messages. It needs to be properly diagnosed. Could be control circuits, bad parts, solenoids…….

It is pretty easy to remove, just take out the bolts. There is no bearing that you need to change. Good luck with the found part. $90 is a steal if it works.

I’m a mechanic. Little plastic fumes are the least of my problems.

The shaft of our bolts are large like an 8mm but the threads are a 6mm. We broke quite a few of them torquing to 17. We go to 7. At the end it just needs to contact the gasket all the way around. Not my favourite design…….

@@autotech4103 Good to know. I have a GX390 with the cover off right now to adjust valve lash. Should be putting it back together tomorrow. I'll stick to 7 lb-ft. This particular engine is circa 2009, and I have no desire to break things.

Yes. I covered the hole that the driveshaft left to keep debris out

Are you speaking of the grey wire with the black stripe between the transfer case and the control module? Are you planning on supplying that wire with voltage?

They are identical. Good value machine for sure

Glad I could help

Thanks for this comment. Appreciated!!

Right on! Glad I can help in multiple languages

Crazy price for that part and not available.

How do you not have AWD lights? I deleted the Rear drive shaft as well but I get lights on the dash.

@@DebJep I’m not sure the difference. Mine is a Canadian vehicle, maybe the year difference?

I just removed awd fuse, and noise stops. Or you can unplug it

@ good to know!!

Turning more likely would be cv joints, so you might assess those first. If your rear viscous coupler fails, you'll have a sense of the rear wheels not rotating as intended when turning; so a different steering wheel feel, and some tire chirping or skidding noise from the back when turning. Good luck!

That rear coupler was back order from the dealer and the cost was over $3k Canadian. The customer did not want to change it, so I removed it from the car along with the rear driveshaft. Effectively deleting the AWD. To my surprise there was no warning lights on the dash. They are still driving it that way three months later.

In which way does it fail? Does it have trouble sticking to the bed or does the quality of print turn out bad?

It doesn’t stick on the bed

@@Normalcameramen ruclips.net/video/nzIkCerorrk/видео.htmlfeature=shared

You will want to do the manual bed levelling as shown in my video. After that you can adjust the z-offset in the tuning menu on the printer during your first print. You will move the z-offset down towards the build plate until the filament looks half way squished.

Ty

To be honest, I don’t think the over all project matters. They slap together a bunch of parts made by different companies and call it a day.

Add a non network printer and the Anycubic Vyper should be an option

This wheel aligner can choose one spot on the inside for stick weights. It should only ever ask for one weight on each side with hammer on. The odd time it doesn’t balance out and you have to add another.

@autotech4103 On regular smart balancing, I know how to put one adhesive wheel weight on the inner side of a rim or outer side of the rim. But I watched different videos about road force balance. What I noticed is the machine told the technicians to put two wheel weights on two different spots on the outer of the rims.

@@fromisheon4867 it all depends on the imbalance found. For most high quality tires mounted on good rims, a single weight solution will be found. But cheap tires or bad rims will often need two places

@@autotech4103 so if the machine asks for two wheel weights on different spots, then most likely bad tires or rims.

It has to heat the hotend and the bed before starting. You should see the temp readings increasing.

Sounds like a nice washer!!

@@autotech4103 I have a 3D printable file that may really help your students if you'd like it. How can I e-mail it to you? Its for the gx390