I was watching this and my daughter came out of nowhere and yelled " what the hell is he doing, why is he knocking on that piece of wood ". Anyway, I'm totally gonna buy some cherry now.
I actually fell in love with American cherry a while ago I started using it for some small projects and cabinet and the result is surprising! I have decided to try them for my flamenco guitar which blew me away! The tone is somehow between rosewood and maple, it's also a dream to finish.
Derek, I got 5 or 6 nice looking pieces from my wood guy today. I knew you could help me figure out how to use it. I have some Ambrosia maple in this batch too.
It's fine for guitars. It can be a little on the dense side and sometimes the stability isn't the greatest, but good quality cherry sawn straight sounds as resonant as anything else to me (I've made three electric guitars from it). For anyone living in the northeast where it's not expensive, it makes a great fender guitar. (it wouldn't wear well for a fingerboard, though). Would do well on backs and sides for archtops and acoustics, just be wary of how much it can move when flatsawn.
I have made many guitars with cherry, necks, bodies, etc... love to work with it. Smells great, stains well, drills well, one of my favorite woods to cut on my sawmill. Can be hard to get a good piece, a little hard to dry (likes to warp)--will also rot quick if log is left on the ground too long, burns easily (routing), darkens/sunburns with age.
@@irisiris3842 A 10 year old piece of wood that has been in a stable environment should be dry by now. They say 1 year per inch of thickness to dry wood. Make sure the environment you work the wood in is the same as where it has been sitting all these years, for instance if you had it stored away in a cold somewhat humid cellar but work with it in a heated garage it could move because of the difference in environment. So put the wood into the working environment for a year or two before using it if you are worried about this.
Interesting video. I came here because I was wondering if cherry could be used for necks, bridges and fretboards. Sounds like maybe it's not quite hard enough for a bridge/fretboard but perhaps for a neck. I had been wondering, since mahogany and cedar are used for necks, maybe cherry could be too. I had even wondered if it could be used for a top since mahogany often is. An all-cherry acoustic would be interesting, though my original thought was sitka top, cherry back/sides/neck! Gibson should do it for an SJ-200. It's sustainable and similar-ish to maple.
hi, thanks for the information. i'm looking for some wood to build a guitar neck. i know some wild cherry trees dead and the wood is awesome and perfect, but i've heard wild cherry is prone to twisting easily with moisture changes.
Cherry is hard to dry without cracking I have a ton of this wood drying for a year milled it and still had some new cracks form it is easy to work I like it.
i love your vidz and thank you for sharing your knowledge. Can you please give some more info about the "tap tone"? which kind of tone is good, which is bad, what does a tap tone say about the performance of the wood in the instrument and is the tap tone a sign to reveal if a wood will combine well with another?
hey man.. interesting I should come across this video as I actually do have a cherry body from a loooonnngg time ago.. which, obviously, I need to finish.. one piece, no top.. was thinking bout a transparent fade blue.. would this work with the red cherry? .. thanks..
Thx for video! I have very nice flamed cherry which is kiln dried, seems very stable. What do you think about making a one piece vintage tele neck out of it? Cheers!
@@celsopereiramagalhaesjr3216 we'll I don't have extensive knowledge and experience with ipe but enough to know if I go down that road I adding on some work but we'll worth every added frustration. I sand it up to 2000 grit wiping down with mineral spirits after every other grit
Sorry wasn't done after I sand it till the grain, which ive always quartersawn, forms these red to black ribbons seem to float encapsulated in glass, ever other piece has nice of sporadically quilting figure and then 2 coats tung oil which is the finish I found that penatrates into the wood, stain just floats on top, I haven't tried to dye it yet, when I have more ipe to experiment with as of now I only have the off cuts from a deck bring built, a huge deck malde of ipe, tiger wood and cumeru which is a rival in the beauty department with ipe but a little easier to work, I want a few 2' 4x4s so I can make a whole neck from ipe and the Brazilian teak which in my opinion is the teak in my book, I won't be lite weight neck but with a ma s,ahogany body or camphorwood body will brighten up so nice and I imagine it would be like playing a glass neck the truss rod would be a formality and a figured spalted sycamore fretboard stained with red mahogany an abalone inlays Paul read Smith would cry at the awesomeness and perfection of that neck
@@drgonzo305 it will my friend. Ipe is a great wood, it would be perfect for a neck or a fretboard , even a top. There is red ipe, black ipe, yellow ipe and white ipe. All of them are worth it.
As I understand it, cherry and alder have just about identical tone qualities, within the range of different pieces of wood. The sole reason that alder is a revered tonewood is because Leo Fender could get it cheaper.
I was watching this and my daughter came out of nowhere and yelled " what the hell is he doing, why is he knocking on that piece of wood ". Anyway, I'm totally gonna buy some cherry now.
I actually fell in love with American cherry a while ago
I started using it for some small projects and cabinet and the result is surprising!
I have decided to try them for my flamenco guitar which blew me away! The tone is somehow between rosewood and maple, it's also a dream to finish.
Derek, I got 5 or 6 nice looking pieces from my wood guy today. I knew you could help me figure out how to use it. I have some Ambrosia maple in this batch too.
It's fine for guitars. It can be a little on the dense side and sometimes the stability isn't the greatest, but good quality cherry sawn straight sounds as resonant as anything else to me (I've made three electric guitars from it). For anyone living in the northeast where it's not expensive, it makes a great fender guitar.
(it wouldn't wear well for a fingerboard, though).
Would do well on backs and sides for archtops and acoustics, just be wary of how much it can move when flatsawn.
How does electric guitar made from cherry wood sound? Would it make a good choice for a strat? Some say it sound kinda like alder
We are starting to use cherry. Here in brazil , SGT ( special guitars team) uses this wood on some strats , and teles.
Tap tone ?
What are you listening for?
Whch frequency in the tap tone makes a guitar sound cool
What is the difference between the cherry wood and maple wood in sounding and toning?
I have made many guitars with cherry, necks, bodies, etc... love to work with it.
Smells great, stains well, drills well, one of my favorite woods to cut on my sawmill.
Can be hard to get a good piece, a little hard to dry (likes to warp)--will also rot quick if log is left on the ground too long, burns easily (routing), darkens/sunburns with age.
SANDS78 what about cherry fretboard. I have a 10 years old cherry piece. I think is stable enough? What you suggest?
@@irisiris3842 A 10 year old piece of wood that has been in a stable environment should be dry by now. They say 1 year per inch of thickness to dry wood. Make sure the environment you work the wood in is the same as where it has been sitting all these years, for instance if you had it stored away in a cold somewhat humid cellar but work with it in a heated garage it could move because of the difference in environment. So put the wood into the working environment for a year or two before using it if you are worried about this.
Interesting video. I came here because I was wondering if cherry could be used for necks, bridges and fretboards. Sounds like maybe it's not quite hard enough for a bridge/fretboard but perhaps for a neck. I had been wondering, since mahogany and cedar are used for necks, maybe cherry could be too. I had even wondered if it could be used for a top since mahogany often is. An all-cherry acoustic would be interesting, though my original thought was sitka top, cherry back/sides/neck! Gibson should do it for an SJ-200. It's sustainable and similar-ish to maple.
hi, thanks for the information. i'm looking for some wood to build a guitar neck.
i know some wild cherry trees dead and the wood is awesome and perfect, but i've heard wild cherry is prone to twisting easily with moisture changes.
Great info BigD, thanks.
Cherry is hard to dry without cracking I have a ton of this wood drying for a year milled it and still had some new cracks form it is easy to work I like it.
would u recomend cherry for a strat body?
Just cut up a cherry tree I’ve been drying out for a couple years. Turns out there was a lot of figure hiding in there😊
i love your vidz and thank you for sharing your knowledge. Can you please give some more info about the "tap tone"? which kind of tone is good, which is bad, what does a tap tone say about the performance of the wood in the instrument and is the tap tone a sign to reveal if a wood will combine well with another?
Got a cedar top and cherry back and sides dreadnaught, sounds great
I have made a cherry body for a Telecaster, and it is fairly heavy, but sounds great.
hey man.. interesting I should come across this video as I actually do have a cherry body from a loooonnngg time ago.. which, obviously, I need to finish.. one piece, no top.. was thinking bout a transparent fade blue.. would this work with the red cherry? .. thanks..
Tony Vincenzi you would have to test. Unsure how the red of cherry will act with the blue. might have to use an off color to get a blue
Seagull/Godin acoustics seem to get a lot of use of cherry...
Thx for video! I have very nice flamed cherry which is kiln dried, seems very stable. What do you think about making a one piece vintage tele neck out of it? Cheers!
Did you try it?
@@hendrix4259 Yes, check out Furora Guitars on instagram or facebook.
I just made a flammed cherry tele neck, trying to decide between a ipe, or figured sycamore or flamed maple for the fret board
Ipe is really hard wood, i am a brazillian, and the wood. Is from brazil, but if you are experienced , go for it, flamed maple is the go to choice.
@@celsopereiramagalhaesjr3216 we'll I don't have extensive knowledge and experience with ipe but enough to know if I go down that road I adding on some work but we'll worth every added frustration. I sand it up to 2000 grit wiping down with mineral spirits after every other grit
Sorry wasn't done after I sand it till the grain, which ive always quartersawn, forms these red to black ribbons seem to float encapsulated in glass, ever other piece has nice of sporadically quilting figure and then 2 coats tung oil which is the finish I found that penatrates into the wood, stain just floats on top, I haven't tried to dye it yet, when I have more ipe to experiment with as of now I only have the off cuts from a deck bring built, a huge deck malde of ipe, tiger wood and cumeru which is a rival in the beauty department with ipe but a little easier to work, I want a few 2' 4x4s so I can make a whole neck from ipe and the Brazilian teak which in my opinion is the teak in my book, I won't be lite weight neck but with a ma s,ahogany body or camphorwood body will brighten up so nice and I imagine it would be like playing a glass neck the truss rod would be a formality and a figured spalted sycamore fretboard stained with red mahogany an abalone inlays Paul read Smith would cry at the awesomeness and perfection of that neck
@@drgonzo305 it will my friend. Ipe is a great wood, it would be perfect for a neck or a fretboard , even a top. There is red ipe, black ipe, yellow ipe and white ipe. All of them are worth it.
@@celsopereiramagalhaesjr3216 Brazil is God guitar center
As I understand it, cherry and alder have just about identical tone qualities, within the range of different pieces of wood. The sole reason that alder is a revered tonewood is because Leo Fender could get it cheaper.
They don't actually sound alike at all.
love cherry.
Good
Tap tone means absolute nothing for electric guitars. Zero.