Hi Joe, Nice video with nice info, as usual. Burnt edges from power sharpening seem to be relatively common on factory knives. Cliff Stamp had made a couple of videos where he discussed this issue. Even from reputable companies like Benchmade and Spyderco it seems to be common to have burnt edges. Therefore, I always take that into account when watching or reading a review of a knife when the reviewer discusses about its edge retention (perhaps lack of) because what reviewers are actually reviewing is often burnt steel unless they had removed the bad steel by sharpening a couple of times prior to reviewing the knife. It must have been disappointing to notice that your customer ruined your knife by using it to melt plastic... that is a good example of the wrong tool for the job... A dollar store butter knife would have been the right one...
yes, power sharpening can be a rough thing for a knife. if you make knives for long enough, you will get wild stories like that. the best thing to do is just listen and see if you can get any more understanding about your steels and designs when it happens :}
Nice to see u still making videos. Ur benchmade 940 review from years ago is still a favorite of mine and I still go back and watch it every now and again. Tell me do u still edc ur 940?
thank you for the kind words. yes, I still carry one of my 940's everday unless im traveling or something out of the ordinary. I made new blades for both of them now though, one in 1095 and one in 440c. but the handles, locks and springs are still going strong.
@@joecalton1449 man that’s so cool. I’ve only had my 940 for about a year and half now so not nearly as long as u but I absolutely love it. It truly is a workhorse isn’t it. Hope my 940 stands the test of time as yours has. And the fact that u made ur own blades for it makes it that much cooler
Hey Joe! Love your videos! I've been wondering about people using the spine of their knife blade as a ferrocerium scraper. Some use the spine near the tip. Don't those glowing globs of molten metal affect the hardness of the blade? Thanks, for any additional info. Have a great week. ATB, Dingo
thanks for the kind words! first off I would say that if the entire spine of your knife is sharp enough to throw sparks off a ferro rod, then i would soften that spine up a bit with some sandpaper or the corner of a sharpening stone or something. on knives that I will use with a ferro rod, I will usually leave a small sharp corner on the ricasso, where it is out of the way. the globs of scraped ferro are hot, but there isnt enough of them in a small enough area to do your knife damage from the heat. that would be like heating up a big snowplow blade with a hairdryer, the difference in mass and the amount of heat is pretty extreme. now if you are scraping the ferro rod with the edge, then sure you could damage the edge not only with the scraping, but the very edge is very thin, and can take heat very quickly and could damage it to a small degree I would think, probably not much more steel than what you would take off on your next sharpening.
@@joecalton1449 I appreciate you getting back to me. So... using the spine, the steel acts somewhat like a heatsink to distribute the heat throughout the blade, with no real harm done to the blade itself? Thank you, again. ATB, Dingo
the multiple quench is a heat treating method that I learned from my friend Ed Fowler. it can be a controversial method with some folks loving it and others not understanding it at all. the short version is that instead of heating your blade up for a single quench and then tempering, you repeat the quenching process several times before you temper. in most of the simpler high carbon steels, this acts to refine the grain and get a little more toughness and hardness. it really shines if you are heating with a torch or forge to even out the variables in heat, but it works very well with electric kilns also. I use it on 1095, 5160, 52100 and 1095 and 15n20 pattern welded steel. I have not seen a benefit in my 440c steel though.
One thing my taught me. To much heat is definitely not good on steel. Awesome job
Hi Joe,
Nice video with nice info, as usual.
Burnt edges from power sharpening seem to be relatively common on factory knives. Cliff Stamp had made a couple of videos where he discussed this issue. Even from reputable companies like Benchmade and Spyderco it seems to be common to have burnt edges. Therefore, I always take that into account when watching or reading a review of a knife when the reviewer discusses about its edge retention (perhaps lack of) because what reviewers are actually reviewing is often burnt steel unless they had removed the bad steel by sharpening a couple of times prior to reviewing the knife.
It must have been disappointing to notice that your customer ruined your knife by using it to melt plastic... that is a good example of the wrong tool for the job... A dollar store butter knife would have been the right one...
yes, power sharpening can be a rough thing for a knife. if you make knives for long enough, you will get wild stories like that. the best thing to do is just listen and see if you can get any more understanding about your steels and designs when it happens :}
Yay another Joe video!🎉❤
thanks!
Not u again
Nice to see u still making videos. Ur benchmade 940 review from years ago is still a favorite of mine and I still go back and watch it every now and again. Tell me do u still edc ur 940?
thank you for the kind words. yes, I still carry one of my 940's everday unless im traveling or something out of the ordinary. I made new blades for both of them now though, one in 1095 and one in 440c. but the handles, locks and springs are still going strong.
@@joecalton1449 man that’s so cool. I’ve only had my 940 for about a year and half now so not nearly as long as u but I absolutely love it. It truly is a workhorse isn’t it. Hope my 940 stands the test of time as yours has. And the fact that u made ur own blades for it makes it that much cooler
@@rommelthedesertfox3089 thank you! I hope your 940 treats you as well as mine have treated me.
Great video - thanks. Have you done a video with Tempilaq on one side of a blade while grinding the other? That might help people see the issue.
i have not, but that is a good idea
Hey Joe! Love your videos! I've been wondering about people using the spine of their knife blade as a ferrocerium scraper. Some use the spine near the tip. Don't those glowing globs of molten metal affect the hardness of the blade? Thanks, for any additional info. Have a great week. ATB, Dingo
thanks for the kind words! first off I would say that if the entire spine of your knife is sharp enough to throw sparks off a ferro rod, then i would soften that spine up a bit with some sandpaper or the corner of a sharpening stone or something. on knives that I will use with a ferro rod, I will usually leave a small sharp corner on the ricasso, where it is out of the way. the globs of scraped ferro are hot, but there isnt enough of them in a small enough area to do your knife damage from the heat. that would be like heating up a big snowplow blade with a hairdryer, the difference in mass and the amount of heat is pretty extreme. now if you are scraping the ferro rod with the edge, then sure you could damage the edge not only with the scraping, but the very edge is very thin, and can take heat very quickly and could damage it to a small degree I would think, probably not much more steel than what you would take off on your next sharpening.
@@joecalton1449 I appreciate you getting back to me. So... using the spine, the steel acts somewhat like a heatsink to distribute the heat throughout the blade, with no real harm done to the blade itself? Thank you, again. ATB, Dingo
Joe, what do you mean by multiple quench? Doesn’t quench just happen once during the heat?
the multiple quench is a heat treating method that I learned from my friend Ed Fowler. it can be a controversial method with some folks loving it and others not understanding it at all. the short version is that instead of heating your blade up for a single quench and then tempering, you repeat the quenching process several times before you temper. in most of the simpler high carbon steels, this acts to refine the grain and get a little more toughness and hardness. it really shines if you are heating with a torch or forge to even out the variables in heat, but it works very well with electric kilns also. I use it on 1095, 5160, 52100 and 1095 and 15n20 pattern welded steel. I have not seen a benefit in my 440c steel though.
@@joecalton1449 Thank you for your reply, I have never heard of that. Sounds like a ton of extra work too.
@@dmitryk754 its not all that bad, you already have the kiln or forge hot, so it just takes a couple extra steps.
@@joecalton1449 one day I should try, same temperatures all three times?
@@dmitryk754 yes