I’ll bet I could get those 1095 pocket knives crazy sharp . All my woods knives are carbon steel mora bushcraft black and a giant Ontario . I love the idea of a slip joint with 1095 . Great stuff man .
Thanks for wisdom you always put in your videos for us. Every 5-10 years I make a mixture of 7 tallow to 1 bee wax. A very thin layer of it on guns barrels, carbon knives, axes, saws and other tools makes them almost fully rust proof. It even helps wooden and leather parts to stay healthy and alive.
I've got an old Sabatier kitchen knife I bought in 1976 or 77. I'm guessing it's 1095, though it doesn't say. It's had surface rust on it a couple of times, when someone else has got it wet and not dried it or put it away. I'd just scrub it off with a scotchbrite pad. Nearly fifty years on, it's got a great patina and gets used pretty well every day. About ten years ago, I bought a Wusthof Classic. Not a patch on my old Sabatier.
I usually force a vinegar patina wrapping the blade in a damp brown flat paper unless you want a paper towel texture on your blade and I put it in a zip lock bag and suck the air out with a straw. As long as you keep oxygen and water away it will take a nice Grey to black patina depending on how long you leave it. Rust is iron oxide so no oxygen no rust and once it gets a nice patina it is much more resistant to rust because there is a thin layer of metal that has bonded with the acid where the oxygen would normally attach to the steel. You should still wipe the blade dry after you use it but it's much less likely to get that red orange death. If you don't want a patina mixing wax and mineral oil over low heat makes a good protective balm that will not evaporate or run off like oil, keeps rust away and isn't toxic if you want to cut food with you knife.
Very nice folder , especially the nail notch , .. but a simple lock is so necessary ! I've had many cuts by the blade folding while I've been working with it .
thank you for the kind words! i will agree that some folks like locks more than others. for a large folder i like having a lock, even though I use the knife like it doesnt have one. for smaller folders and pocket knives it does not matter to me if it has a lock or not and i have not cut myself on a non-locking knife in a long time. but folks that have bad luck with folding knives, should definately get them with locks, or stick with fixed blade knives.
Food safe mineral oil and a little food safe wax bees wax works great just melt them together over low heat and after it cools it makes a safe knife balm and lip balm I guess that sticks to the blade way better than oil and will last indefinitely until you eventually wear or wipe it off.
I make the same thing on my stovetop in a double boiler. Takes a couple minutes. A jar lasts a long time. Great for cutting boards and knives, also smells great
I was doing some carpet removal and was using my Gayle Bradley 2 in m4 steel and by the time I was done it had started pitting and there was nothing on the blade beforehand. M4 is a rust magnet
Hey Joe, I was looking at your VW bug slip joints. How do you think that steel will compare to your 1095 in terms of corrosion resistance and edge performance?
the steel in those old bug springs is surprisingly good. I have not done a side by side rope cutting contest or anything with it. but after carrying one for about 6 months, it wont hold an edge quite like my 1095, but it does do pretty well, and there is no corrosion resistance to speak of at all.
Not that I'm using high carbon steel at the moment, I use wd40, gets all the sticky tape and crap off easily then just wipe the excess off. Nice folder there Joe
I’ll bet I could get those 1095 pocket knives crazy sharp . All my woods knives are carbon steel mora bushcraft black and a giant Ontario . I love the idea of a slip joint with 1095 . Great stuff man .
Thanks for wisdom you always put in your videos for us.
Every 5-10 years I make a mixture of 7 tallow to 1 bee wax. A very thin layer of it on guns barrels, carbon knives, axes, saws and other tools makes them almost fully rust proof. It even helps wooden and leather parts to stay healthy and alive.
very cool!
Joe i just got a Dan's translucent Arkansas stone. OMG this thing cuts so good 💯. I like it better than my black arkansas
those dans translucent stones are nice!
I've got an old Sabatier kitchen knife I bought in 1976 or 77. I'm guessing it's 1095, though it doesn't say. It's had surface rust on it a couple of times, when someone else has got it wet and not dried it or put it away. I'd just scrub it off with a scotchbrite pad. Nearly fifty years on, it's got a great patina and gets used pretty well every day. About ten years ago, I bought a Wusthof Classic. Not a patch on my old Sabatier.
I usually force a vinegar patina wrapping the blade in a damp brown flat paper unless you want a paper towel texture on your blade and I put it in a zip lock bag and suck the air out with a straw. As long as you keep oxygen and water away it will take a nice Grey to black patina depending on how long you leave it. Rust is iron oxide so no oxygen no rust and once it gets a nice patina it is much more resistant to rust because there is a thin layer of metal that has bonded with the acid where the oxygen would normally attach to the steel. You should still wipe the blade dry after you use it but it's much less likely to get that red orange death. If you don't want a patina mixing wax and mineral oil over low heat makes a good protective balm that will not evaporate or run off like oil, keeps rust away and isn't toxic if you want to cut food with you knife.
that sounds like a cool way to force a patina!
My favorite is blue grease and mineral oil.
mineral oil is a great thing! I will have to look up blue grease
Very nice folder , especially the nail notch , .. but a simple lock is so necessary ! I've had many cuts by the blade folding while I've been working with it .
thank you for the kind words! i will agree that some folks like locks more than others. for a large folder i like having a lock, even though I use the knife like it doesnt have one. for smaller folders and pocket knives it does not matter to me if it has a lock or not and i have not cut myself on a non-locking knife in a long time. but folks that have bad luck with folding knives, should definately get them with locks, or stick with fixed blade knives.
Can you blue 1095 With blueing for gun parts?
yes you can
I will own one of your knives one day.
just let me know when you are ready or see something you like my friend :}
@joecalton1449 will do. I'll probably get it after Christmas. Just to keep the spending down a lil. 😆
@@ChuckinSteel i hear that, the spending always seems to get out of hand around the holidays! 🙂
Great presentation! Stay safe and sharp. Oldfirekeeper 61 Great Smokey Mountains N.C
Thanks, you too!
@joecalton1449 God bless all our old knife trading pals. Thank you Joe, for good content Oldfirekeeper Great Smokey Mountains N.C
Food safe mineral oil and a little food safe wax bees wax works great just melt them together over low heat and after it cools it makes a safe knife balm and lip balm I guess that sticks to the blade way better than oil and will last indefinitely until you eventually wear or wipe it off.
that sounds like a good knife balm!
I make the same thing on my stovetop in a double boiler. Takes a couple minutes. A jar lasts a long time. Great for cutting boards and knives, also smells great
I was doing some carpet removal and was using my Gayle Bradley 2 in m4 steel and by the time I was done it had started pitting and there was nothing on the blade beforehand. M4 is a rust magnet
that is pretty wild! was there salt or pet stains or something in the carpet?
@@joecalton1449 apart from me sweating my butt off not to my knowledge. It was just a hot summers day renovating my grandparents house
Hey Joe, I was looking at your VW bug slip joints. How do you think that steel will compare to your 1095 in terms of corrosion resistance and edge performance?
the steel in those old bug springs is surprisingly good. I have not done a side by side rope cutting contest or anything with it. but after carrying one for about 6 months, it wont hold an edge quite like my 1095, but it does do pretty well, and there is no corrosion resistance to speak of at all.
Glad to see you working on folding knives. One question... is the back spring in your folding knife also 1095?
yes the back spring is 1095 also, just with a higher tempering temperature suited for a spring.
I use a fair amount of Baby Oil and Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) -Fairly safe
those would work good. but i never could stand the smell of baby oil.
Not that I'm using high carbon steel at the moment, I use wd40, gets all the sticky tape and crap off easily then just wipe the excess off. Nice folder there Joe
Great tip! and thanks for the kind words :}