I had water coming into my basement due to an overflowing gutter. The previous homeowner installed a PVC drain but just ran it directly into the soil. Dead end. I followed these instructions to do the same job. Worked great. Great drainage.
Bill Drouillard would you recommend doing this then? I am putting a slot drain across my whole driveway in the back yard and need somewhere to put the water
Definitely should have wrapped the drywell itself. And, as a plumber I'm always draining into the top cover hole not the side of the drywell wall. Use a 4-in TY and continue the pop-up emitter upward so that its flush with the finished grade
I do not recommend installing the perforated pipe on the feed line to the drywell. If roots get into it, the whole system is useless. Instead feed the drywell with solid pipe, and then come out of the tank with a second or even third pipe that is perforated.
I assume the drywall shouldn't hold water very long if installed properly as shown? Should the drywell be deeper to avoid the possibility of freezing or is that overkill? TIA! I'm looking to tackle this project this weekend so any advice is greatly appreciated.
I have multiple wells and there are blocked off by the previous owner. Going to use a jetter to see if i can unclogged them. My hope is slim due to the two big massive trees in the front yard.
I've installed dry Wells and usually I try and make sure that the water table is below the foundation of any nearby house do not have water being on a table seeping into any foundation
what does it cost to hire someone to install one of these? we need something like this on our house for the grey water(not the toilet because we have a septic tank for that, but the tub, washer, and the kitchen and bathroom sinks drain out into a pipe that just goes out from the foundation(a moron did that before we got here), and my back will not let me dig that
I’d definitely would be out there peeping the whole setup and video tapping it. Soon as my mfn basement flood.....whoops court notice and video tape. Give me my money and get your insurance company to come re-finish my basement. Two days later, on the back porch smoking weed with a drank in my hand.
instead of wasting the rain water why not put in an underground water tank and automatic irrigation system to irrigate the garden with it and use the water also for flashing the toilet and doing the laundry?
Because theres so many contaminants that come off of your roof....the water runs across the shingles on your roof and the shingles contain oils and debris, along with other debris in your gutters like leaves ect
lol. what and all the lakes and pipes from miles away carries pure freshness from beginning to end? Come-on neurons, spark! Leaf matter is harmless. Roofs should be clean. Then a little filtering before drink water is fine. Not that Amal mentions drinking water.
No, just on the sides of the hole to prevent silt from mixing with the 3/4" stone that surrounds your basin whether concrete or plastic. The water will flow through the basin, leach through the stone, and again leach back in the soil underneath. If you have really bad soil, do an overdig underneath and fill the overdig portion with bank sand or more 3/4" stone (whichevers cheaper in your area) to give more leaching area under the stone.
Also, dont forget to fabric the top of the system so that the 6-8" of loam doesnt get into the 3/4" stone and clog it up, cut out a circle in the fabric fir the basin lid for inspection/clean out reasons.
😩😢😢😢😢 a question pls I bought house with no driveways, now the driveway done all the water down into backyard ( yes it lower then the house or else I flooding every week ) behind it block with the humb so water got no where to go ,,,, can I put alot of fine stones & dirt mixed & leveling it hight up as a level of the house ,because now it very low that how water stay there took 4 day to dry out sometimes not dry out yet then rain again 😡💔 I suffered house no man around sorry of my English so poor Thanks for your to answering me 💜
No idea what the issue is here exactly, but you could look into a few things. top of my mind would be a french drain system, but that depends on the layout of your area. Worse case is you could put a sump pump back there until you get something more permanent sorted out. If my understanding of your problem is correct, no amount of stone is going to save you. It needs redesigned and releveled. If you have the money to have a professional come out, its possible for you to have your driveway sloped in a different direction using a technique called mud jacking. That's something for just the pros though.
@@flashpointwhite 💜🌻😀thanks for répond The pump I have thought but pump to where the city locked with big humb in the back water got no where to go The driveway? It too late because the driveway got done that how the water go way from the house but back to the gardens like swimming pool I took a chance to put alot wood chips 1 of a coner it dry & nice the whole gardens big if I do it wonder water back up to the house ? I call professional come he talk me what he like to do .well same way I think can do my self too then he walk away saying " oh I am not interested " 😢 what the heck....😀 I don't wanna call no one any more I wish you could see my backyard & tell me what I could do or you do it because I like how your work 😁🌸🌻 Thanks for your advice I won't put any stone or gravel down like you said . All my plants flowers for every green dying I was thin like this in to next corner I have done nice dry I will make a big hole deeping put all big river rocks so water go there what you think ? hahaha 1 time when I just bought the house the next day I see ducks in my back yard funny I live in big city Toronto .
Mike Benoit it’s not a great idea to put your address on the internet and the guys at TOH don’t read these comments and they definitely won’t come to your house if you just put this here. There’s an application process
Schedule 40 pvc is the most expensive, self-cleaning, and joints should be glued.. Corrugated pipe is cheaper and cutting corners. I have mainly the corrugated for most of my drains and so far has been working fine.
@@jeffthewhiff Guy has a channel on YT called Gate City Foundation and Drainage--out of North Carolina. Check out his videos. He always recommends the Schedule 40.
All of that stone they are using has "fines" in it already, that will clog things up eventually. Any good drainage system that has water moving through stone needs washed - rounded stone, with no fines and more area between the stones for water movement and but it costs more so contractors skimp and will already have your money when things go south.
3:33 "so this exposed to the surface " "not under ground by eight inches like you told me at the start" You guys think in circles. (lid should be brown?)
Just playing this out in my head: if the plastic barrel/bucket/dry well sump fills up to the point where the pop up emitter has to open to provide relief, isn't the 4" PVC pipe already completely underwater and therefore the pipe is backing up before it gets said relief? (the top of the 4" pipe is a few inches below the emitter... i'm thinking an outlet pipe on the side for overflow would be better IF it can be sent to the surface.. anyone have experience with this system??
The garbage from the roof (particles of shingles, small debris from the trees, etc) will come into the drain pipe and into the dry well. They will be accumulated there and finally will clog it. If a dry well is under the ground, how to clean it?
You filter it previously, as Andreas has said, but also, that green little cover can be taken out, and you just need some kind of pressure washing system (maybe your garden hose would be enough) to clean the pipe. As long as it's debris that comes from the roof and not soil or roots that have gone into the pipes, you should be ok.
Thank you, guys! There are many cypresses around my house. Fragments of these trees is a nightmare. Standard drain inlets on the back yard, have too large gaps to block them. It should be very small meshes. The problem is that this is an existing drain. It was built long time ago. All drain pipes from the backyard are under the paver stones, and there is only one pop-up outlet in the middle of the small front yard. It looks like a contractor screwed up with a level. This pop-up does not work properly because it is not deep enough over the last drain inlet. I am thinking to remove this pop-up and to install a dry well. The new dry well has to be deeper under the ground level and without any pop-up, otherwise it will not work as well. That's why I am concern about this cleaning problem. The pressure washing system in this situation will not work. The only way is to have an access to the dry well tank to open it from time to time for cleaning, but it looks like, this system in video is not design for this.
So got a question my question is is this a good product for a cold climate in other words a warm cold warm cold climate will it withstand a Minnesota winter without cracking or breaking would appreciate a response back thank you
I did drainage in MA, where 3-4 feet down is frost line. I put most of my drain pipe down below that, and my dry sinks were 6 feet down by the time I got to them. I used schedule 40 to a vent on top.
My local supplier is telling me that anything stronger than 4 inch corrugated pipe is overkill. I'm not so sure. What type of PVD pipe did you use? How much per foot?
+Kenneth Morris My father ran corrugated pipe 30 years ago and it lasted until the roots invaded it and then the dirt flowed in.. neighbor ran a snake through it and wrecked the pipe. I went over this summer and redid the 220 feet of the French drain / pipe with 4 inch (not sure what they call it but the turquoise hard PVC pipe at Home Depot, about $11 for 10 feet.) The way I look at it, it is stronger and trust me doing any digging and gravel moving and planting should only be done once. Unless you are a farmer or just plain crazy. go big the first time and never look back!
After all of this, you didn't place the dry well correctly. 8" is supposed to be from the top of the dry well to the top of the release cover. You put the top of the well RIGHT at grade?
Eric Durham the sloped top plus pop up is the 8". he's talking about the holes in the dry well, not the top... no dirt would get in through the solid top. get it?
According to the manufacturer, NDS, the top should be buried 8" below grade. This was incorrectly installed. Won't matter much, but it's just unsightly being exposed.
what happens when it rains hard or long? a) dry well is filled to the brim b) it starts to seep back into the house' foundation/basement c) redo everything but this time pipe it to a proper storm drain d) install a sump pump inside that well and pump the water into neighbor's lawn...
Hi Roger this is Mike from CT we have a high water table where we live Janeski came out to install a freeze guard and piping to a drain runoff at the end now we have water running into our yard and neighbor s yard I was thinking about installing a storm drain at the end of the runoff to catch the water & redirect the flow of water toards the woods and river behind our house and install a drywall what's your take on this
I live in Georgia in the US and we have very tough clay soil, too, and still my shovels (which is what we call both spades and shovels) don't have handles. I've only seen handles on them in Europe and Africa. I think it's an interesting cultural difference, if you could call it that.
The "E-tool", is a U.S. Military entrenching tool has a handle. It's a small shovel that folds and fits in a case that attaches to our equipment. I think it is just the designer and model you get available in your area, but we have shovels with handles in USA too.
Hey man, I bought one of those US stylee spades after ridiculing them for years (UK, clay soil in back garden, hasn't got a handle for twisting etc)....best spade I ever got. Its so long you can lever any shit out, get yerself one you will love it
Looks too deep from here. Ground water may puddle around the pop-up and rain water from the lawn will end up filling the well. There should be a slight slope *away* from the well...
Good video but I would put the holes towards the bottom. If they are at the top, the water must fill up inside the pipe before it filters out. Holes point down brah - water percolates quicker mmkay?
Incorrect, the holes are correctly placed. The first drainage should be handled by the well. If it fills up, then the holes in the pipe come into action increasing the area of absorption. Finally if all that is overrun, then it's time for the pop up cover to do it's job. There's more sense in the system than it might seem in a brief glance. ;-) Cheers
@@crpth1 at 0:20, he explains that the first drain is through the perforated pipe after water drains from the solid pipe. Then anything left drains into the dry well
Why? Heavy rain and you have a flooded yard. I know every part of the country have its moments when there is 3 days of rain. Connect the down spout to a French drain and get it to the curb for the storm drains to take over
They are inexpensive and snap on and off fairly easy. In fact, too easy, as mine completely detaches when water comes up too fast. A better solution would be the Flo-Well Surface Inlet attachment.
Grass roots only go 2-6 inches, the well is much deeper than that and surrounded by a foot of gravel on top of that. Unless you plant a tree nearby or something it'll be fine.
john smith By us this has been called a "French drain", and as far as I know it is not typically code-compliant. A bit far from what's know as a septic tank, but close.
lazairman -----My bad, somehow I mixed up messages. I deleted the wrong reply. To answer, I think its just because it just saturates the soil - no real effective handling of it.
Isnt the idea to get the water away from the foundation so it doesnt end up in the basement. I have a house from 1920 and no dry well. My basement is always wet.
Yes, that is the idea. First things: You don't want water running toward it - if you do have that situation, build-up or swales are effective, and grading is important. Overhangs are used to keep rainfall away from right at the foundation wall; footer drains are installed to drain the water and they are below the pit - they need to be flowing, and yours may be clogged. Without cleanouts (which likely is your situation) it is a destructive (and laborious) investigation. Waterproofing needs to be applied on the basement walls (exterior). Secondly: You can get backup if the storm system is beyond its capacity - if close enough, neighbors could/would have the same problem, so you may be able to judge from that. Dry wells: As far as I know they are not allowed, and yes, it is piping the water right into the ground so saturated soil will make the water go to where it can -which is right where it previously went (the basement). If your house ever did work right you may have clogged storm/foundation lines as the sediment can build up from the soil; also, as a note, gutters can collect asphalt over the years. Anomalies: Extreme flash situations, which are supposed to be unlikely but do happen, are built into code's probability - functional yet feasible sizings are established (any system has its limits). Saturated soil with a following heavy rain e.g. after winter when snow is melting, means rainfalls will want to transfer quickly. If you can't prevent accumulation a sump with pump is needed - just be sure you are not pumping it out too close so that it just short-circuits back in; it must flow away (or be connected to a storm line with a check valve). In my collection and in some actual work, this is what I can tell you.
I've always loved THIS OLD HOUSE
I had water coming into my basement due to an overflowing gutter. The previous homeowner installed a PVC drain but just ran it directly into the soil. Dead end. I followed these instructions to do the same job. Worked great. Great drainage.
lmao... they did the same here. Lazy fucks. go into the ground like 10" done.
craiglist
@@lifeisgood070 yeah lets not do it correctly
@@lifeisgood070 Do you mean 10 inches or 10 feet?
Now grab the RUBBA HAMMA.
No w see byq RSS feeds
graib* 😂
Just did it in my backyard, awesome works great guy's helped alot.
Bill Drouillard would you recommend doing this then? I am putting a slot drain across my whole driveway in the back yard and need somewhere to put the water
RIP Roger. About to do this project this weekend.
I drank a shot of JD every time he said "waada" and I'm smashed.
Hahaha I'm lol'ing! Woatah!
Yar ah wickahd retahd
He had me at rubbah hammah
I only drank at “haama”.
Waada ya tahkin' about?
Definitely should have wrapped the drywell itself. And, as a plumber I'm always draining into the top cover hole not the side of the drywell wall. Use a 4-in TY and continue the pop-up emitter upward so that its flush with the finished grade
👍
"Gonna run that waata across your yaaad"
Just what I was looking for. Thanks a lot.
I do not recommend installing the perforated pipe on the feed line to the drywell. If roots get into it, the whole system is useless.
Instead feed the drywell with solid pipe, and then come out of the tank with a second or even third pipe that is perforated.
Mike: Well done.
Yeah. That bothered me, also. Perf pipe after the tank.
Absolutely. I know from experience
Definitely makes sense!
that's great job honestly
I assume the drywall shouldn't hold water very long if installed properly as shown? Should the drywell be deeper to avoid the possibility of freezing or is that overkill? TIA! I'm looking to tackle this project this weekend so any advice is greatly appreciated.
Nice you covered the end result with adds.
I miss Roger
Very cool 😎
His wife convinced him to write a letter to TOH instead of paying a contractor. He was happy to be back at his cubicle the following day 😂
if you are going to run water away from your house make sure it's directed to your neighbors yard so you can have water wars
My neighbor’s water comes to my house, horrible
I have multiple wells and there are blocked off by the previous owner. Going to use a jetter to see if i can unclogged them. My hope is slim due to the two big massive trees in the front yard.
I've installed dry Wells and usually I try and make sure that the water table is below the foundation of any nearby house do not have water being on a table seeping into any foundation
what does it cost to hire someone to install one of these? we need something like this on our house for the grey water(not the toilet because we have a septic tank for that, but the tub, washer, and the kitchen and bathroom sinks drain out into a pipe that just goes out from the foundation(a moron did that before we got here), and my back will not let me dig that
I think the popup valve is to deep once they level the lawn ?
2:30 => what she said
"I'm givin' her all she's got Captain!"
This could work for the toilet or washing machine also the kitchen and bathroom sinks.
Hmmm, it would be a lot easier to just run the pipe to the edge of the neighbor's yard.
it is until you go to court over it :/ Channeling water is a pretty easy civil suit these days
I’d definitely would be out there peeping the whole setup and video tapping it. Soon as my mfn basement flood.....whoops court notice and video tape. Give me my money and get your insurance company to come re-finish my basement. Two days later, on the back porch smoking weed with a drank in my hand.
bg147
Apparently you just watched the video i just did
bg147 😂
I see what you did there....
Very good video lads
would've liked to see this simulated with a hose or how it actually works in a rain storm.
they call it imagination. a hose won't show squat. it will run out the holes in the pipe fast.
Would this freeze and still be okay? We were told to dig 5 feet deep so it wouldn’t freeze
Mahk should do home improvement videos. “This Old Townie”
you could use infiltrator chambers as an alternative.
kk
Can you do something like this to keep your creek from flooding your yard?
"..grab the rubber hammah.. take it.. and tap this puppy down in place."
This guy is definitely from New England. Boston maybe?
3:07
instead of wasting the rain water why not put in an underground water tank and automatic irrigation system to irrigate the garden with it and use the water also for flashing the toilet and doing the laundry?
Because theres so many contaminants that come off of your roof....the water runs across the shingles on your roof and the shingles contain oils and debris, along with other debris in your gutters like leaves ect
cost
lol. what and all the lakes and pipes from miles away carries pure freshness from beginning to end? Come-on neurons, spark! Leaf matter is harmless. Roofs should be clean. Then a little filtering before drink water is fine. Not that Amal mentions drinking water.
If it's raining, you don't need to irrigate your garden.
i don't put water into my dry well so its 100% dry all year round. (PROTIP)
Oliver Stocks good tip
Do you put fabric on the bottom of the hole?
No, just on the sides of the hole to prevent silt from mixing with the 3/4" stone that surrounds your basin whether concrete or plastic. The water will flow through the basin, leach through the stone, and again leach back in the soil underneath. If you have really bad soil, do an overdig underneath and fill the overdig portion with bank sand or more 3/4" stone (whichevers cheaper in your area) to give more leaching area under the stone.
Also, dont forget to fabric the top of the system so that the 6-8" of loam doesnt get into the 3/4" stone and clog it up, cut out a circle in the fabric fir the basin lid for inspection/clean out reasons.
Is it me or did they just send that water to his neighbors yard?
Works great if your yard drains the right way.
What kind of landscape fabric do you recommend? Would plain old weed blocker fabric work?
You want non-woven geo-fabric for proper flow rate. Plain old weed blocker fabric is not suitable.
Can I use this system in New England? Is it safe on freezing temperatures?
it's better to put pipe first and then the rocks on top right?
Is the lid covered in landscape fabric before back filling?
Where can you buy them black dry wells
Home depot
😩😢😢😢😢 a question pls
I bought house with no driveways, now the driveway done all the water down into backyard ( yes it lower then the house or else I flooding every week ) behind it block with the humb so water got no where to go ,,,, can I put alot of fine stones & dirt mixed & leveling it hight up as a level of the house ,because now it very low that how water stay there took 4 day to dry out sometimes not dry out yet then rain again 😡💔 I suffered house no man around sorry of my English so poor
Thanks for your to answering me 💜
No idea what the issue is here exactly, but you could look into a few things. top of my mind would be a french drain system, but that depends on the layout of your area. Worse case is you could put a sump pump back there until you get something more permanent sorted out. If my understanding of your problem is correct, no amount of stone is going to save you. It needs redesigned and releveled. If you have the money to have a professional come out, its possible for you to have your driveway sloped in a different direction using a technique called mud jacking. That's something for just the pros though.
@@flashpointwhite 💜🌻😀thanks for répond
The pump I have thought but pump to where the city locked with big humb in the back water got no where to go
The driveway? It too late because the driveway got done that how the water go way from the house but back to the gardens like swimming pool
I took a chance to put alot wood chips 1 of a coner it dry & nice the whole gardens big if I do it wonder water back up to the house ?
I call professional come he talk me what he like to do .well same way I think can do my self too then he walk away saying " oh I am not interested " 😢 what the heck....😀 I don't wanna call no one any more
I wish you could see my backyard & tell me what I could do or you do it because I like how your work 😁🌸🌻
Thanks for your advice I won't put any stone or gravel down like you said . All my plants flowers for every green dying
I was thin like this in to next corner I have done nice dry I will make a big hole deeping put all big river rocks so water go there what you think ?
hahaha 1 time when I just bought the house the next day I see ducks in my back yard funny I live in big city Toronto .
@@MinibiteTran m.ruclips.net/video/wMbO5RIji_Y/видео.html try this or email pics of yard, driveway, house, etc dhollings83 at g mail dot com
If you are in the neighborhood of East Windsor CT we are at 17 Cricket Road
Mike Benoit it’s not a great idea to put your address on the internet and the guys at TOH don’t read these comments and they definitely won’t come to your house if you just put this here. There’s an application process
When it comes to outdoor drainage, is it better to use pvc pipe or corrugated pipe?
Schedule 40 pvc is the most expensive, self-cleaning, and joints should be glued.. Corrugated pipe is cheaper and cutting corners. I have mainly the corrugated for most of my drains and so far has been working fine.
@@AStanton1966 Okay, thanks for the advice!
@@jeffthewhiff Guy has a channel on YT called Gate City Foundation and Drainage--out of North Carolina. Check out his videos. He always recommends the Schedule 40.
All of that stone they are using has "fines" in it already, that will clog things up eventually. Any good drainage system that has water moving through stone needs washed - rounded stone, with no fines and more area between the stones for water movement and but it costs more so contractors skimp and will already have your money when things go south.
that's a lot of hard work, looks exhausting...
EppingForest304 digging always is
Do towns want a permit for this type of work
Rubba Hamma!
but why did they place the dry well in-front of a auto gate?
That pop-up isn't going to do anything. The inlet is lower that the pop-up so water would just back up into the pipe.
3:33 "so this exposed to the surface "
"not under ground by eight inches like you told me at the start"
You guys think in circles. (lid should be brown?)
Would this be okay in Ohio? like it was freezing all last week then now it’s 55 and rainy?
Big Beef89 the NDS flo-well can be stacked to give you enough depth to get below the frost line so the well doesn’t freeze
Just playing this out in my head:
if the plastic barrel/bucket/dry well sump fills up to the point where the pop up emitter has to open to provide relief, isn't the 4" PVC pipe already completely underwater and therefore the pipe is backing up before it gets said relief? (the top of the 4" pipe is a few inches below the emitter... i'm thinking an outlet pipe on the side for overflow would be better IF it can be sent to the surface.. anyone have experience with this system??
That doesn't block the water's source unless the source is below the well's top cap.
@@fessit thank you! Siphon basics!
Neighbors ever poke their heads over the fence for pointers?
Lots of pipe goin' in 6 inches...LOL
How much roof can one of these handle?
Depends on how much rain lands on the roof
No clean out?
The garbage from the roof (particles of shingles, small debris from the trees, etc) will come into the drain pipe and into the dry well. They will be accumulated there and finally will clog it. If a dry well is under the ground, how to clean it?
You need to install a debris collector (filter) before the water runs under ground.
You filter it previously, as Andreas has said, but also, that green little cover can be taken out, and you just need some kind of pressure washing system (maybe your garden hose would be enough) to clean the pipe. As long as it's debris that comes from the roof and not soil or roots that have gone into the pipes, you should be ok.
Thank you, guys!
There are many cypresses around my house. Fragments of these trees is a nightmare. Standard drain inlets on the back yard, have too large gaps to block them. It should be very small meshes.
The problem is that this is an existing drain. It was built long time ago. All drain pipes from the backyard are under the paver stones, and there is only one pop-up outlet in the middle of the small front yard.
It looks like a contractor screwed up with a level. This pop-up does not work properly because it is not deep enough over the last drain inlet.
I am thinking to remove this pop-up and to install a dry well. The new dry well has to be deeper under the ground level and without any pop-up, otherwise it will not work as well.
That's why I am concern about this cleaning problem.
The pressure washing system in this situation will not work. The only way is to have an access to the dry well tank to open it from time to time for cleaning, but it looks like, this system in video is not design for this.
It's called composting. It wont be much at all. And worms will eat it that little bit away in summer.
You need a drag line to go behind your lawn tractor 🚜🤣 would save you alot of digging
So got a question my question is is this a good product for a cold climate in other words a warm cold warm cold climate will it withstand a Minnesota winter without cracking or breaking would appreciate a response back thank you
I did drainage in MA, where 3-4 feet down is frost line. I put most of my drain pipe down below that, and my dry sinks were 6 feet down by the time I got to them. I used schedule 40 to a vent on top.
My local supplier is telling me that anything stronger than 4 inch corrugated pipe is overkill. I'm not so sure. What type of PVD pipe did you use? How much per foot?
+Kenneth Morris My father ran corrugated pipe 30 years ago and it lasted until the roots invaded it and then the dirt flowed in.. neighbor ran a snake through it and wrecked the pipe. I went over this summer and redid the 220 feet of the French drain / pipe with 4 inch (not sure what they call it but the turquoise hard PVC pipe at Home Depot, about $11 for 10 feet.) The way I look at it, it is stronger and trust me doing any digging and gravel moving and planting should only be done once. Unless you are a farmer or just plain crazy. go big the first time and never look back!
I forgot to knock out the small holes. Is that why I have a black sludge in the bottom?
Will the stones enter the holes on the dry well?
Probably should’ve wrapped the drywall also
why are the holes facing up??
After all of this, you didn't place the dry well correctly. 8" is supposed to be from the top of the dry well to the top of the release cover. You put the top of the well RIGHT at grade?
He even said at the beginning the top would be 8 inches below grade.... I thought that was weird..
8 inches below grade, the grass needs a few inches of soil to grow.
Eric Durham the sloped top plus pop up is the 8". he's talking about the holes in the dry well, not the top... no dirt would get in through the solid top. get it?
According to the manufacturer, NDS, the top should be buried 8" below grade. This was incorrectly installed. Won't matter much, but it's just unsightly being exposed.
Am I the only one who noticed the dry well is right in front of the large entry gate ?
what happens when it rains hard or long?
a) dry well is filled to the brim
b) it starts to seep back into the house' foundation/basement
c) redo everything but this time pipe it to a proper storm drain
d) install a sump pump inside that well and pump the water into neighbor's lawn...
If you watched the entire video then you would see they put a pop up valve that would release extra water on the surface.
what about weather or something else causing the pipe to be pushed up to the surface? or freezing during winter?
That pop-up valve (at 3:20) is not going to pop up when its under 5 feet of snow.
So what's the solution?
that is a fact. Think about it.
Marc Brunet why would it need to? there's no water to drain in winter
Sam I agree with you. I was just trying to be clever
what happends when spring rime comes
For this project, can anyone guess how much stone was used? 1/2 ton? 1 ton?
Maybe a ton and a half. Possibly 2
How much stone do you need for this project?
7
@@AndrewMiguelez bags?
boxes
@@AndrewMiguelez haha!
Hi Roger this is Mike from CT we have a high water table where we live Janeski came out to install a freeze guard and piping to a drain runoff at the end now we have water running into our yard and neighbor s yard I was thinking about installing a storm drain at the end of the runoff to catch the water & redirect the flow of water toards the woods and river behind our house and install a drywall what's your take on this
is that NDS well
yes
Those spades without a top handle would be useless with our tough clay soil here in England.
I live in Georgia in the US and we have very tough clay soil, too, and still my shovels (which is what we call both spades and shovels) don't have handles. I've only seen handles on them in Europe and Africa. I think it's an interesting cultural difference, if you could call it that.
Richard Coles i know it's late, but if you have clay soil, i think this method is unsuitable...
The "E-tool", is a U.S. Military entrenching tool has a handle. It's a small shovel that folds and fits in a case that attaches to our equipment. I think it is just the designer and model you get available in your area, but we have shovels with handles in USA too.
Well, you guys can just use your gnarley teeth to dig.
Hey man, I bought one of those US stylee spades after ridiculing them for years (UK, clay soil in back garden, hasn't got a handle for twisting etc)....best spade I ever got. Its so long you can lever any shit out, get yerself one you will love it
They only hooked up one downspout for that big dry well?
Yeah but how big is the roof feeding it. And a heavy rain it will still over flow most likely
He did not put the pipe hole deep enough and at 3:27 Rodger Roasted him
why would you put it right in front of the fence gate
umm thats why its green
did you just drain the water right in front of your gate? There are going to be puddles, aren't they?
Looks too deep from here. Ground water may puddle around the pop-up and rain water from the lawn will end up filling the well. There should be a slight slope *away* from the well...
Good video but I would put the holes towards the bottom. If they are at the top, the water must fill up inside the pipe before it filters out. Holes point down brah - water percolates quicker mmkay?
Incorrect, the holes are correctly placed. The first drainage should be handled by the well. If it fills up, then the holes in the pipe come into action increasing the area of absorption.
Finally if all that is overrun, then it's time for the pop up cover to do it's job.
There's more sense in the system than it might seem in a brief glance. ;-)
Cheers
@@crpth1 at 0:20, he explains that the first drain is through the perforated pipe after water drains from the solid pipe. Then anything left drains into the dry well
What about how he said wrap it waap it.
7 years after installation then what?
"what's next?"
uhhh, your engineer, plans and permits...
Why? Heavy rain and you have a flooded yard. I know every part of the country have its moments when there is 3 days of rain. Connect the down spout to a French drain and get it to the curb for the storm drains to take over
Depends if he has the proper slope and how enclosed his property is. Hard to tell from the video if he has that option to just drain it to the curb
I'd imagine this is for a property without access to storm drains. Otherwise, yeah, a dry well seems like a waste of time
I never seen nor understand this video ever!!!
Loads of dumb responses here by people who have trouble reaching their own shoelaces.
Joseph Collins and u sit win the award for the dumbest response, so who do you get to reach your shoelaces for u?
Mr Stupid, what's a "sit win"? Go back to school and learn to read and write.
Heheh “deepah”
Do you also sit at the end of your driveway and yell at people to slow down? Get a life.
Still unsure what wadda is just confused a little
👍🏼👁👍🏼
3:27 Yup, you sure think of everything.. how do you replace it when it inevitably gets chopped to shreds by the lawn mower.
They are inexpensive and snap on and off fairly easy. In fact, too easy, as mine completely detaches when water comes up too fast. A better solution would be the Flo-Well Surface Inlet attachment.
I wanna see ya go deepa
I bet you do
And what happens when the system backs up
But but.... WHY??
That was not 8 inches from grade
Those holes are a waste of time. roots will just get in it and clog it all up
Grass roots only go 2-6 inches, the well is much deeper than that and surrounded by a foot of gravel on top of that. Unless you plant a tree nearby or something it'll be fine.
Out of context This Old House 2:52
Lol they put it right beside someone else's house
bo
Lol it's just a basic septic system leach field
john smith By us this has been called a "French drain", and as far as I know it is not typically code-compliant. A bit far from what's know as a septic tank, but close.
Lou why is that not code compliant?
lazairman -----My bad, somehow I mixed up messages. I deleted the wrong reply. To answer, I think its just because it just saturates the soil - no real effective handling of it.
Out of context This Old House 2:28
Hahahahaha yes away from his house and into his neighbors!
Dry well are useless. All they do is fill up with water and then it percolates out the top and then you're back where you started with a flooded yard.
Wren Wright
Agreed. A lot of work just to make another bottleneck for the rain water.
Wren Wright the right contractor would tell you it will only be effective in Sandy/loam soil. clay soils and you're screwed.
Yes. 250 gallons can easily be collected in several hours.
Isnt the idea to get the water away from the foundation so it doesnt end up in the basement. I have a house from 1920 and no dry well. My basement is always wet.
Yes, that is the idea. First things: You don't want water running toward it - if you do have that situation, build-up or swales are effective, and grading is important. Overhangs are used to keep rainfall away from right at the foundation wall; footer drains are installed to drain the water and they are below the pit - they need to be flowing, and yours may be clogged. Without cleanouts (which likely is your situation) it is a destructive (and laborious) investigation. Waterproofing needs to be applied on the basement walls (exterior). Secondly: You can get backup if the storm system is beyond its capacity - if close enough, neighbors could/would have the same problem, so you may be able to judge from that. Dry wells: As far as I know they are not allowed, and yes, it is piping the water right into the ground so saturated soil will make the water go to where it can -which is right where it previously went (the basement). If your house ever did work right you may have clogged storm/foundation lines as the sediment can build up from the soil; also, as a note, gutters can collect asphalt over the years. Anomalies: Extreme flash situations, which are supposed to be unlikely but do happen, are built into code's probability - functional yet feasible sizings are established (any system has its limits). Saturated soil with a following heavy rain e.g. after winter when snow is melting, means rainfalls will want to transfer quickly. If you can't prevent accumulation a sump with pump is needed - just be sure you are not pumping it out too close so that it just short-circuits back in; it must flow away (or be connected to a storm line with a check valve). In my collection and in some actual work, this is what I can tell you.
in winter its solid ice all cracked n broken..frozen solid..back up beside foundation... 10.000$ foundation repair... crapppppppppppppppppppppppppppp
san379 and this has happened to you? or just speculating like you know more than them?
Umm, it would not be full in the winter.
big f#cking job just to get rid of wadda !