I had my SE/30 motherboard re-capped recently and am very happy I am back to using System Software 6.0.8, which is very fast. I play a lot of the classic games but mostly use it for writing. With the super fast boot and shutdown times if is something I can use when I get up in the middle of the night with an idea I want to add to my other writings. It is almost as fast as using pencil and paper, but much easier to edit. Nothing beats these old Macs for an uncluttered, focused writing experience. I use an old DA called Diary. It is the best for simply sitting down with some coffee and writing. My SE/30 has been a part of my life since Christmas of 1992 when I bought it from my college roommate, so while not the original owner, I have had this computer for about 27 years now.
Oh, nice! Pretty hard to get those today in good nick, I guess. Had to fiddle around quite a bit to write the old HFS disks. I thought it would be easy with my MacBook and an USB drive but OSX dropped support for HFS some versions ago and only supports HFS+ now. Had to use bash and dd the image files to the disk. Which in the end worked very well. I found out later that most Linux's supports HFS natively. Maybe I'll do a little video about that some time.
Great Vid. Just went thru a lot of this myself with my Mac Classic. Opened it to check the battery, and the battery was fine, but noticed some cap leakage. Ordered a cap kit and removed the caps. That's when I noticed some bad looking corrosion under one of the caps. It ate thru part of one of the pads. I cleaned everything with isopropyl and vinegar. Luckily when I checked, there was enough of a pad left on that bad one to still resolder the new cap. The system acted a bit unstable after the work tho, so I took it out and recleaned it. It still didn't look as clean as I wanted, so I went for the dishwasher method. After lots of drying, put it back together and it seems good now. Hopefully it is OK for another 15 years or so. ;-)
awesome Jan. when i first started work a million years ago i worked with SE30s and LC2 Macs. They were awesome machines for their time given the counterparts were PS2 model 70s and Windows 3.11. Good to see this little beast running again.
Hey Jan. I have one of these I bought in 1987 new for about £3000!! So have never thrown it out. I am about to start restoring as it no longer boots. Thanks for your video. I used to work for an Apple dealer at the time and if the case of an old Apple II was dirty we cleaned with T-CUT which is designed to restore car bodywork paint. It’s very effective on macs...
On my own SE/30 I accidentally broke off one of those caps entirely when cleaning the board with alcohol and a toothbrush before recapping it, even though I was trying to be careful, and it took both pads with it. I think it was the same cap that you lifted the trace on! I had to put the replacement cap on the bottom of the board, with wires running to the nearest appropriate points. Fortunately there's enough room under there to fit it! I guess those pads are really fragile.
They were pretty fragile on mine, too. I think leaky caps degrade the PCB in a way that the pads become really brittle. Experienced the same thing on my A1200. Lifted only one pad and it was one on a small cap that had leaked pretty badly.
Hahaha, how did I miss this one over the course of the years... "This is a Macintosh SE DIRTY" :D:D:D Love the German accent :D I have one of these and I love it. Recapped it years ago with nice tantalums so goodbye leakage ever - still have to recap the analog board, so I'm happy I ran into this video just now, it reminded me of this :D
oh, no tap water for rinsing; it's always better to choose demineralized water. that won't leave small residues or minerals on pcb. However, pretty video as always! Cheers, M
Thank you Sir. I would usually use distilled water but didn't have enough and my usual impatience kicked in. Cleaned it thoroughly with alcohol after rinsing it though so I think it's going to be alright.
I know this is an old video, but the twist method to removing caps. I've lifted traces using hot air (because they often glue these components to the board for the solder flow machines), and lifted traces just using the soldering iron rock back and forth method. I think if if a pad is badly damaged to start with you're going to end up having to repair that anyhow. One thing I've run into with hot air too is the cap exploding? What temperature did you use?
I enjoyed your video as I have been working on restoring a compact Mac. I know little about the surface mount electrolytic caps and was unaware that they also leak. I was hoping that you would show in more detail how you soldered them back on the board. I'm sure I'll find another video about it on RUclips if I search. Also love the comment from another user regarding the caps in the HDD. Those SCSI drives are getting hard (and expensive) to replace. Thanks.
Oh, glad I could help. I found that SMD caps that date back to the nineties almost all leak today. They used pretty inferior quality (I think there was a shortage at the time). I'll try to show SMD soldering a bit more in depth the next time I do it, too.
Great video, as always mate. Reference cleaning the pcb's, the best method I tried so far is vinegar first and then dishwasher. Never got any damage with that method and pcb's come out nice and shiny :) Keep up good work!
Hi there, really great video, I'm going to use it as a reference when I eventually get around to repairing my SE/30. I'm not sure if this question has been asked before, but what were the specifications of the capacitors that you replaced the old ones with on the logic board?
I don't remember the exact specifications. I do remember that I bought good Panasonic ones with the highest temperature rating and lowest ESR I could find. Any caps with the right capacitance and the same or higher voltage rating as the originals will do in this machine though.
If anyone attempts such a repair, you HAVE to remove the pcb at the end of the cathode tube to avoid accidentally hitting it and breaking the tube. It's super fragile. Once you remove that pcb, it's much easier to pull out the power connector. There's only one way to put it back, so no worries there.
Great video. I'm very hesitant on those cheap hot air guns due to numerous reports (see eevblog forums) of them being dangerously wired (live swapped with neutral, earth problems). You may want to double check the wiring inside it.
Thanks! Yeah, I was aware of the risk and had a look inside before I used the hot air station for the first time. Mine was actually wired alright. I will eventually make some slight mods to make it safer though (such as making a better ground connection and adding a proper fuse).
Great job. I have an SE/30 that I wasn't able to get running. Getting horizontal stripes. I'm pretty sure I messed up the re-cap process so I will be doing it again. :-)
That's the Simasi Mac symptoms. I had that briefly when the lifted pad broke off again. It's most likely to do with the 1uF capacitor. It connects the sound and also hooks into the reset circuit (if I remember correctly). I would check that one first. (I'm not very experienced though obviously as this was my first Mac repair ever...)
cb meeks have you checked the voltages coming off the external floppy port? You need +5v +12v and -12v. If you have low voltages then it won't start and the get the weird pattern. I suggest recapping the analogue board.
I used to have an SE. I would had loved to have had an SE/30. I would get a Tadiran 1/2AA to replace the battery, as they have a very long service life and won't leak. This thing will probably outperform even my Performa 475 at some tasks since it has the 68882 FPU.
Yes! The performance was way ahead of its time for sure. I wish I had one of the color graphics adapters for it which would enable using more software (that was made for more recent machines). Thanks for the battery tip, I'll put it on my list.
Interesting video & machine! Could be fun to play with the old Macs, since I'm a Mac guy anyway. Never had the old ones. What happened to the bypass wire, just before re-assembling it? Timeline mixup? :) How do make sure it's completely dry, after washing it? Let it sit for some hours? 1:32 - Lol, "exploding and stuff".. :)
Thanks! The bypass wire was actually added after the test run I'm showing in the video. It broke down again and I had to add the wire. Edited the picture in because I didn't film adding it. ;) I had it sit for some days after washing. Should have made that clearer in the video, I guess. The little cavities in the connectors take a while to dry. You could also put it in an oven at a low temperature to speed up the process.
Wish I'd seen this before I did mine; the epoxy under the pads seems like a great idea! I'll do that when it needs redoing in another 30 years or so haha
Haha, yeah, lovely machines indeed! There's going to be at least another video about this one some time. I need to recap the analog board, too. Plus, I really want to try retrobrighting the case.
Hmmm... you have to wash off the board with vinegar as a first step if there's leakage to neutralize the electrolyte leakage. Solder will not be easily workable until then. As you pour the vinegar (the stronger he vinegar, the better) you'll see the electrolyte fizz on the board.
Interesting board cleaning technique I don't believe I've seen vinegar used before and was surprised you rinsed it off under under flowing water. I always thought that much water and electronics was a bad idea. Why didn't you use alcohol like you usually do? Sometimes when I use alcohol the circuit board is sticky afterwards?
I just used the water to rinse the vinegar off and cleaned it more thoroughly with alcohol afterwards. Could have used alcohol only but it would have taken half a liter or so and I didn't have much left at the time. ;) The stickiness of the PCBs is caused by the alcohol dissolving the solder mask (usually epoxy) a bit.
Water is fine with electronics, used throughout the manufacturing. Water and electricity is the bad thing, not electronics. Ensure there is no power, no batteries and then dry in a warm cupboard for days before applying power.
Not bad Jan. I have heard that some people have had great success using SMD tantilum caps. What about the analog board? You might want to look into a sonic cleaner. Also after rinsing with water you should rinse it in isopropyl to displace any water that might of gotten trapped under chips, sockets and such.
Thanks Leland. I saw people use tantalums but I decided to go with good brand electrolytics this time (although tantalums would obviously work just fine). A sonic cleaner is definitely on my wish list. I cleaned the board thoroughly with IPA after rinsing it with water (didn't show it on camera though) and let it dry for some days (while waiting for the new caps to arrive).
I figured you would. Most people attend to only cover the mainboard/motherboard of the Mac and never touch the analog/CRT board. To this day im still kicking myself for letting all of my old computers and parts go. Then again I would be stuck re capping everything lol.
Hahh.. ok, I was not that far into the video :) You used vinegar. Nice. I didn't see it fizzing though. Was it a mild vinegar solution? Turned out nice still!
Nice job Jan, might got away with lifting that pad if you used two soldering irons and some quality gel type flux. I only really trust heat gun on a new PCB.
Thanks! I'm still experimenting with different methods.The heat gun worked really well for me on all other pads. I think the pad that lifted must have been cracked before I even started desoldering. The corrosion around there was pretty bad. I have yet to try the "two iron" method. Have an old broken graphics card to experiment with here atm. ;)
Thanks! I have done some A1200 videos in the past. Check out my playlists, they are conveniently sorted by system. ;) I don't have a C64G but recently got an ALDI C64 I'm going to make a video about.
I think I had it on approx 350C in the end. Started out a bit lower but the higher temperature worked better for me. I guess it depends a lot on your way of doing it, how quickly you move the hot air gun and also on the PCB and the used solder etc... Probably requires some experimentation. I practiced on broken PCI cards for a bit.
@@JanBeta Harsh? I know everyone says that, but I don't really agree honestly, when I hear my German friends talk amongst each other it doesn't sound harsh at all. Try Dutch! We can sound like we're getting ready to spit with all our "lovely" G's :-P. I most certainly wasn't going to go for French as a third language (it's so blasé). So I did the only logical thing and decided I should study Polish... which was painful (but I adore speaking it)! It's odd that Europe is often perceived as difficult. I love Europe, get a group of Europeans from different countries in one room, and it's always lots of fun! Euringlish flying around, the friendly banter and misunderstandings.
Oh oops, I forgot to actually ask what I wanted to ask. What temp did you set your hot air to? I tend to go for 300c and use some no clean liquid flux (topnik rf800) to help things along. I always get nervous working with hot air as I don't want to damage anything.
Ja geil :D den Spaß hatte ich auch hinter mir - auch wenn ich mit den SMDs gut Glück hatte. Bei mir zickt aktuell nur noch das ROM-Simm rum. Da ist es entweder der Slot oder das ROM-Simm selbser... ich liebe ja den SE/30 - neben dem Colour Classic.
Oh ja, ich habe über die ROM SIMM Probleme gelesen. In der Beziehung hatte ich Glück. Die Dinger nachzukaufen ist ja leider recht teuer. Vielleicht reicht es ja, den Slot ordentlich zu schrubben. Ich hatte an einigen RAMs ganz ähnliche Probleme, die sich durch Reinigen lösen ließen.
I'll look into the cost of the stuff - but in regards to retro perhaps it's worth it ? Can you really sleep at night knowing there a bodge wire in that thing lol . I know in my prime of soldering I've taken some pads off the boards of playstation pcbs but in my defence I didn't know I could lift a pad and secondly how fast they life if you apply heat for too long . Of course since then I've learned a lot . My worry at the moment is taking caps off old hardware such as amigas and in your case a Mac which could lift a pad - the twist method might of saved you this time because the heat helped lift it ? It's really hard to know honestly lol twist or heat - hmmmmm I wonder if you could make a video on some unwanted capped board how durable both methods are and which one causes more stress . Chris
+Ohplease I managed to lift one pad per machine with both methods so I don’t really know. Maybe it’s just bad luck. Both pads were the most corroded ones on the PCB in each case though. I guess if you would do it REALLY properly you‘d have to preheat the board and use hot air. I don’t mind botch wires in my own machines. Would have given me a bad conscience if I had done this to someone else‘s machine though. That’s why I seldomly work on other people’s stuff. ;)
No, it's the same board. I edited the picture of the jumper wire in later. The system worked fine for the first test (that I filmed) and then broke down again so I had to add the wire.
Hey Jan. Go to winworldpc dot com -> Library -> OSes and Shells and there you find Mac OS 7 and Mac OS 8 Install CD ISOs for download. Just grab a copy of the "Universal" ones, burn it to CDR and if you have a SCSI CD-ROM (DB-25->Centronics-50 external enclosure/adapter) install it (alternatively you can also use a ribbon cable while the Mac is pseudo-assembled - read: leave the back cover off - to connect a CD-ROM to the internal SCSI bus if you have a SCSI ribbon cable with enough edge connectors; I recommend SCSI ID 3 as that's always been Apple's default). The highest version a SE/30 is able to take would be Mac OS 8.1. Hope this helps you to get a fully working OS install going.
Die Kondensatoren bekommt man viel leichter runter , so wie beim "recap" bei einem Amiga... Schade, dass die heiße Luft, der Platine "den Rest" gegeben hat... Ich finde deine Reparaturen ganz interessant... sind aber leider schon etwas "grob"..
you need to use Flux, man..please dont ruin your vintage board, it really hleps..I destroyed one of the pads (with trace) with just using the hot soldering iron..
I had my SE/30 motherboard re-capped recently and am very happy I am back to using System Software 6.0.8, which is very fast. I play a lot of the classic games but mostly use it for writing. With the super fast boot and shutdown times if is something I can use when I get up in the middle of the night with an idea I want to add to my other writings. It is almost as fast as using pencil and paper, but much easier to edit. Nothing beats these old Macs for an uncluttered, focused writing experience. I use an old DA called Diary. It is the best for simply sitting down with some coffee and writing. My SE/30 has been a part of my life since Christmas of 1992 when I bought it from my college roommate, so while not the original owner, I have had this computer for about 27 years now.
I still have the original system 7 full disc set in its original packaging, great to see an old Mac up and running.
Oh, nice! Pretty hard to get those today in good nick, I guess. Had to fiddle around quite a bit to write the old HFS disks. I thought it would be easy with my MacBook and an USB drive but OSX dropped support for HFS some versions ago and only supports HFS+ now. Had to use bash and dd the image files to the disk. Which in the end worked very well. I found out later that most Linux's supports HFS natively. Maybe I'll do a little video about that some time.
Great Vid. Just went thru a lot of this myself with my Mac Classic. Opened it to check the battery, and the battery was fine, but noticed some cap leakage. Ordered a cap kit and removed the caps. That's when I noticed some bad looking corrosion under one of the caps. It ate thru part of one of the pads. I cleaned everything with isopropyl and vinegar. Luckily when I checked, there was enough of a pad left on that bad one to still resolder the new cap. The system acted a bit unstable after the work tho, so I took it out and recleaned it. It still didn't look as clean as I wanted, so I went for the dishwasher method. After lots of drying, put it back together and it seems good now. Hopefully it is OK for another 15 years or so. ;-)
awesome Jan. when i first started work a million years ago i worked with SE30s and LC2 Macs. They were awesome machines for their time given the counterparts were PS2 model 70s and Windows 3.11. Good to see this little beast running again.
Thanks! Yes, it is running very smoothly compared to the PCs of the time. And the OS was light years ahead in terms of simplicity and speed. :)
First video when i can see you are using hot air. Cleaning process was very interesting.
You have so many great videos, this is a brilliant channel you have here! Thank you :)
Oh, thank you! Glad you enjoy the videos. Lots more to come still. :D
Hey Jan. I have one of these I bought in 1987 new for about £3000!! So have never thrown it out. I am about to start restoring as it no longer boots. Thanks for your video. I used to work for an Apple dealer at the time and if the case of an old Apple II was dirty we cleaned with T-CUT which is designed to restore car bodywork paint. It’s very effective on macs...
Bought my first Mac - a Mac Plus for $5000 in '89 and it became a career. Even worked at Apple.
Those Quantum HDDs suffer from bad caps btw =D Often you can get them running properly just by swapping out the few caps on there.
Oh, thanks for the tip. I'm going to get in there and recap the PSU and analog board some time. Will have a look at the Quantum, too. :)
Ahh those ball mouses at 25:50 ... we sure have rubbed our balls a lot back then, cuz you know it had to be clean for game play... tsk tsk xD
I have one but doesn't show any image so I will try "your path to summon" this pretty Mac.
Love your video , man!
Thanks! Hope you get your Mac fixed. As far as I know, the leaking caps are VERY common with these models. Fingers crossed!
On my own SE/30 I accidentally broke off one of those caps entirely when cleaning the board with alcohol and a toothbrush before recapping it, even though I was trying to be careful, and it took both pads with it. I think it was the same cap that you lifted the trace on! I had to put the replacement cap on the bottom of the board, with wires running to the nearest appropriate points. Fortunately there's enough room under there to fit it! I guess those pads are really fragile.
They were pretty fragile on mine, too. I think leaky caps degrade the PCB in a way that the pads become really brittle. Experienced the same thing on my A1200. Lifted only one pad and it was one on a small cap that had leaked pretty badly.
Hi Jan those caps do play havoc with the pads. Great vid very informative can't wait for more on the Mac.
Thanks! I'll definitely have more Mac videos soon. Got a lot to explore myself. :)
Hahaha, how did I miss this one over the course of the years... "This is a Macintosh SE DIRTY" :D:D:D Love the German accent :D I have one of these and I love it. Recapped it years ago with nice tantalums so goodbye leakage ever - still have to recap the analog board, so I'm happy I ran into this video just now, it reminded me of this :D
oh, no tap water for rinsing; it's always better to choose demineralized water. that won't leave small residues or minerals on pcb. However, pretty video as always! Cheers, M
Thank you Sir. I would usually use distilled water but didn't have enough and my usual impatience kicked in. Cleaned it thoroughly with alcohol after rinsing it though so I think it's going to be alright.
I know this is an old video, but the twist method to removing caps. I've lifted traces using hot air (because they often glue these components to the board for the solder flow machines), and lifted traces just using the soldering iron rock back and forth method. I think if if a pad is badly damaged to start with you're going to end up having to repair that anyhow. One thing I've run into with hot air too is the cap exploding? What temperature did you use?
I enjoyed your video as I have been working on restoring a compact Mac. I know little about the surface mount electrolytic caps and was unaware that they also leak. I was hoping that you would show in more detail how you soldered them back on the board. I'm sure I'll find another video about it on RUclips if I search. Also love the comment from another user regarding the caps in the HDD. Those SCSI drives are getting hard (and expensive) to replace. Thanks.
Oh, glad I could help. I found that SMD caps that date back to the nineties almost all leak today. They used pretty inferior quality (I think there was a shortage at the time). I'll try to show SMD soldering a bit more in depth the next time I do it, too.
Great video, as always mate. Reference cleaning the pcb's, the best method I tried so far is vinegar first and then dishwasher. Never got any damage with that method and pcb's come out nice and shiny :) Keep up good work!
Thanks! I was a bit hesitant about the dishwasher but will try next time (maybe with a less valuable board at first). :)
Dishwasher with a mild non-abrasive soap solution.
douro20 whoa, that's a coincidence.. You commented just now, and guess what? I'm washing x4 Commodore PET motherboards now :)
Hi there, really great video, I'm going to use it as a reference when I eventually get around to repairing my SE/30. I'm not sure if this question has been asked before, but what were the specifications of the capacitors that you replaced the old ones with on the logic board?
I don't remember the exact specifications. I do remember that I bought good Panasonic ones with the highest temperature rating and lowest ESR I could find. Any caps with the right capacitance and the same or higher voltage rating as the originals will do in this machine though.
@@JanBeta Cheers for the info! I'll make sure to look for ones with a good esr and temp rating. Thanks again for the great vid!
If anyone attempts such a repair, you HAVE to remove the pcb at the end of the cathode tube to avoid accidentally hitting it and breaking the tube. It's super fragile. Once you remove that pcb, it's much easier to pull out the power connector. There's only one way to put it back, so no worries there.
Great video. I'm very hesitant on those cheap hot air guns due to numerous reports (see eevblog forums) of them being dangerously wired (live swapped with neutral, earth problems). You may want to double check the wiring inside it.
Thanks! Yeah, I was aware of the risk and had a look inside before I used the hot air station for the first time. Mine was actually wired alright. I will eventually make some slight mods to make it safer though (such as making a better ground connection and adding a proper fuse).
I thought I'd say something in case people watching don't know. Same goes for some cheap solder stations.
Great job. I have an SE/30 that I wasn't able to get running. Getting horizontal stripes. I'm pretty sure I messed up the re-cap process so I will be doing it again. :-)
That's the Simasi Mac symptoms. I had that briefly when the lifted pad broke off again. It's most likely to do with the 1uF capacitor. It connects the sound and also hooks into the reset circuit (if I remember correctly). I would check that one first. (I'm not very experienced though obviously as this was my first Mac repair ever...)
cb meeks have you checked the voltages coming off the external floppy port? You need +5v +12v and -12v. If you have low voltages then it won't start and the get the weird pattern. I suggest recapping the analogue board.
The hard parts to find and replace are the axial capacitors (2 on the board)... but it's a nice venture :D
I used to have an SE. I would had loved to have had an SE/30. I would get a Tadiran 1/2AA to replace the battery, as they have a very long service life and won't leak. This thing will probably outperform even my Performa 475 at some tasks since it has the 68882 FPU.
Yes! The performance was way ahead of its time for sure. I wish I had one of the color graphics adapters for it which would enable using more software (that was made for more recent machines). Thanks for the battery tip, I'll put it on my list.
Interesting video & machine! Could be fun to play with the old Macs, since I'm a Mac guy anyway. Never had the old ones. What happened to the bypass wire, just before re-assembling it? Timeline mixup? :)
How do make sure it's completely dry, after washing it? Let it sit for some hours?
1:32 - Lol, "exploding and stuff".. :)
Thanks! The bypass wire was actually added after the test run I'm showing in the video. It broke down again and I had to add the wire. Edited the picture in because I didn't film adding it. ;)
I had it sit for some days after washing. Should have made that clearer in the video, I guess. The little cavities in the connectors take a while to dry. You could also put it in an oven at a low temperature to speed up the process.
Wish I'd seen this before I did mine; the epoxy under the pads seems like a great idea! I'll do that when it needs redoing in another 30 years or so haha
Ah the wonderful sounds of a busy floppy drive
Very nice! When I got my first SE/30 I loved it so much I bought another one! Lol
Haha, yeah, lovely machines indeed! There's going to be at least another video about this one some time. I need to recap the analog board, too. Plus, I really want to try retrobrighting the case.
I KNEW you were going to play SimCity as soon as I saw it there!
Hmmm... you have to wash off the board with vinegar as a first step if there's leakage to neutralize the electrolyte leakage. Solder will not be easily workable until then. As you pour the vinegar (the stronger he vinegar, the better) you'll see the electrolyte fizz on the board.
Great job and lovely little machines =D
Thanks! They are lovely indeed. :)
Interesting board cleaning technique I don't believe I've seen vinegar used before and was surprised you rinsed it off under under flowing water. I always thought that much water and electronics was a bad idea. Why didn't you use alcohol like you usually do? Sometimes when I use alcohol the circuit board is sticky afterwards?
I just used the water to rinse the vinegar off and cleaned it more thoroughly with alcohol afterwards. Could have used alcohol only but it would have taken half a liter or so and I didn't have much left at the time. ;)
The stickiness of the PCBs is caused by the alcohol dissolving the solder mask (usually epoxy) a bit.
Water is fine with electronics, used throughout the manufacturing. Water and electricity is the bad thing, not electronics. Ensure there is no power, no batteries and then dry in a warm cupboard for days before applying power.
Not bad Jan.
I have heard that some people have had great success using SMD tantilum caps.
What about the analog board?
You might want to look into a sonic cleaner. Also after rinsing with water you should rinse it in isopropyl to displace any water that might of gotten trapped under chips, sockets and such.
Thanks Leland. I saw people use tantalums but I decided to go with good brand electrolytics this time (although tantalums would obviously work just fine). A sonic cleaner is definitely on my wish list. I cleaned the board thoroughly with IPA after rinsing it with water (didn't show it on camera though) and let it dry for some days (while waiting for the new caps to arrive).
Oh, and I also plan to put new capacitors on the analog board some time soon. That's for another video. ;)
I figured you would. Most people attend to only cover the mainboard/motherboard of the Mac and never touch the analog/CRT board.
To this day im still kicking myself for letting all of my old computers and parts go. Then again I would be stuck re capping everything lol.
Haha, it's tedious work indeed but I think it's worth it. I still have quite some recapping to do myself. ;)
Hahh.. ok, I was not that far into the video :) You used vinegar. Nice. I didn't see it fizzing though. Was it a mild vinegar solution? Turned out nice still!
Jan says "I don't have a Klingon driver for my key board"
Will the toothbrush not carry a static discharge? Be careful with venegar I damaged a board with it. I guess I used too much
not an apple expert but is the booting sound what it is supposed to be?
Nice job Jan, might got away with lifting that pad if you used two soldering irons and some quality gel type flux. I only really trust heat gun on a new PCB.
Thanks! I'm still experimenting with different methods.The heat gun worked really well for me on all other pads. I think the pad that lifted must have been cracked before I even started desoldering. The corrosion around there was pretty bad. I have yet to try the "two iron" method. Have an old broken graphics card to experiment with here atm. ;)
Cool
What temp do you use hot air? It looked like you were able to heat those caps pretty quick! It takes me 2-3 min per cap to get it loose! 280deg C
I found both a mac lc 2 and a se 30, got the lc 2 working but had no luck with the se 30 after the recap, still has the simasimac issue.
Nice video, man. Amiga1200 and c64G video, pease. Repair or review...
Thanks! I have done some A1200 videos in the past. Check out my playlists, they are conveniently sorted by system. ;) I don't have a C64G but recently got an ALDI C64 I'm going to make a video about.
Great Repair Jan, what temp did you have the hot air station at to remove the caps safetly?
Regards...
I think I had it on approx 350C in the end. Started out a bit lower but the higher temperature worked better for me. I guess it depends a lot on your way of doing it, how quickly you move the hot air gun and also on the PCB and the used solder etc... Probably requires some experimentation. I practiced on broken PCI cards for a bit.
"Die Umlauts... these are what makes German sound so good." :)
-- Jan Beta, 2017
Haha, it's only half true. I guess the German language would sound harsh even without any of those actually. ;)
@@JanBeta Harsh? I know everyone says that, but I don't really agree honestly, when I hear my German friends talk amongst each other it doesn't sound harsh at all. Try Dutch! We can sound like we're getting ready to spit with all our "lovely" G's :-P.
I most certainly wasn't going to go for French as a third language (it's so blasé). So I did the only logical thing and decided I should study Polish... which was painful (but I adore speaking it)!
It's odd that Europe is often perceived as difficult. I love Europe, get a group of Europeans from different countries in one room, and it's always lots of fun! Euringlish flying around, the friendly banter and misunderstandings.
Oh oops, I forgot to actually ask what I wanted to ask. What temp did you set your hot air to? I tend to go for 300c and use some no clean liquid flux (topnik rf800) to help things along. I always get nervous working with hot air as I don't want to damage anything.
Great video Jan, what a lovely machine!
Thank you! I'm planning to do a couple of Macintosh videos in 2018. :)
Ja geil :D den Spaß hatte ich auch hinter mir - auch wenn ich mit den SMDs gut Glück hatte. Bei mir zickt aktuell nur noch das ROM-Simm rum. Da ist es entweder der Slot oder das ROM-Simm selbser... ich liebe ja den SE/30 - neben dem Colour Classic.
Oh ja, ich habe über die ROM SIMM Probleme gelesen. In der Beziehung hatte ich Glück. Die Dinger nachzukaufen ist ja leider recht teuer. Vielleicht reicht es ja, den Slot ordentlich zu schrubben. Ich hatte an einigen RAMs ganz ähnliche Probleme, die sich durch Reinigen lösen ließen.
very nice ........thank you
Gosh, I have one of these around here and I'm starting to worry about those caps.... Ahhhh :)
They probably are leaky. Many (or most) of the SMD caps from that era are (at least from my experience).
Great video - regarding the pad it's life mate you will have to get some heat resistant eproxy next time though hehe!
Thanks! Looked it up a while ago and that stuff is really expensive. I guess I'll keep doing botch wires for a while... ;)
I'll look into the cost of the stuff - but in regards to retro perhaps it's worth it ? Can you really sleep at night knowing there a bodge wire in that thing lol . I know in my prime of soldering I've taken some pads off the boards of playstation pcbs but in my defence I didn't know I could lift a pad and secondly how fast they life if you apply heat for too long . Of course since then I've learned a lot . My worry at the moment is taking caps off old hardware such as amigas and in your case a Mac which could lift a pad - the twist method might of saved you this time because the heat helped lift it ? It's really hard to know honestly lol twist or heat - hmmmmm I wonder if you could make a video on some unwanted capped board how durable both methods are and which one causes more stress .
Chris
+Ohplease I managed to lift one pad per machine with both methods so I don’t really know. Maybe it’s just bad luck. Both pads were the most corroded ones on the PCB in each case though. I guess if you would do it REALLY properly you‘d have to preheat the board and use hot air.
I don’t mind botch wires in my own machines. Would have given me a bad conscience if I had done this to someone else‘s machine though. That’s why I seldomly work on other people’s stuff. ;)
Jan Beta ah I feel you man . Well there's always another video of using a USB microscope and giving her a new pad lol .
Haha, yeah that's a good idea. :)
Can you give links foe EVERYTHING you used on the board, and what is the chip I should use to replace near the c13
The q3
At 22:28, is this a different logic board? There is no jumper from the cap to the chip here.
No, it's the same board. I edited the picture of the jumper wire in later. The system worked fine for the first test (that I filmed) and then broke down again so I had to add the wire.
Ok thanks :)
Nice fix
Thank you! :)
Hey Jan. Go to winworldpc dot com -> Library -> OSes and Shells and there you find Mac OS 7 and Mac OS 8 Install CD ISOs for download. Just grab a copy of the "Universal" ones, burn it to CDR and if you have a SCSI CD-ROM (DB-25->Centronics-50 external enclosure/adapter) install it (alternatively you can also use a ribbon cable while the Mac is pseudo-assembled - read: leave the back cover off - to connect a CD-ROM to the internal SCSI bus if you have a SCSI ribbon cable with enough edge connectors; I recommend SCSI ID 3 as that's always been Apple's default). The highest version a SE/30 is able to take would be Mac OS 8.1. Hope this helps you to get a fully working OS install going.
Thanks! I'm up and running on System 7 but I'm looking into getting a SCSI drive for more convenience anyway so thanks for pointing me to the ISOs. :)
Thank you for the Mac OS Library info.
Good job.
+Recep Ünal Thank you!
Die Kondensatoren bekommt man viel leichter runter , so wie beim "recap" bei einem Amiga...
Schade, dass die heiße Luft, der Platine "den Rest" gegeben hat...
Ich finde deine Reparaturen ganz interessant... sind aber leider schon etwas "grob"..
Super 8 film ;-) then you must be from the end 60's, early 70's
Oh sorry I did not see you grounding bracelet sorry
Don't send anything to macCaps. He never fixes your gear and takes your money. Just ask 68k forum. He stole my Se30 and 250 dollars
you need to use Flux, man..please dont ruin your vintage board, it really hleps..I destroyed one of the pads (with trace) with just using the hot soldering iron..
I do now, this video is ancient! :D
Dood Mac Classic Reloaded MoBo shipped.
Jam in an SSD
Ümläuts are cööl