Today, I recapped my first Mac. I had no experience with soldering (especially not with SMD) but it turned out perfect and my Mac is working! Thank you so much for this guide, really helpful.
Thanks for the extended video on how to do this properly. I really appreciate your effort and sharing your knowledge. It gives me the confidence and also shows the right approach to start on some small projects.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. We need more people like you in this world :) I've successfully recapped my second Macintosh SE/30 logic board (the first one was kind of a mess but I learned a lot from it) thanks to this guide. I'm now waiting for the capacitors for the Colour Classic, can't wait to get that one up and running!
Enjoyed watching an expert at work. Thank you. You deserve a lot more views. While I understand the importance of the full length process, you could also do a 10-20 minute edited highlights version - just a thought.
Excellent instructional video. Great job! This is the most thorough explanation of the recapping process that I've ever seen online. The microscope view really helps to see exactly what you're doing as your describing it. If I lived in Australia, I'd send you all my logic boards to have recapped. After watching you at work, I have the utmost confidence you'd do a thorough and accurate job. By the way, your website is a very good resource as well. Keep up the good work. Cheers, mate!
Hi Bruce! I think your videos are great. You have a teacher's demeanor and patience when describing what you're doing. I hope your channel catches on. I'm having some issues repairing a Mac Plus of mine, I'm wondering if you have any suggestions? The computer was functional, but the screen was flickering, even after replacing the caps on the analogue board. I know that the flyback is a common failure point, so I decided to resolder the pins on the flyback. Starting up again, all seemed well until BANG. A blown component, and flup flup noises. Long story short, I've replaced many components including diodes, rectifiers, transistors, resistors, more caps, and reflowed all the connector joints, all per David Pina's books, but it still doesn't go (stays black, and flupping or chirping noises). Replacement flybacks for compact macs are getting rarer and quite expensive ($99 US currently). Is there anything else that could be done? And if the flyback is toast, is it possible to substitute for a different, less expensive one? Thank you!
Hi, I have a G4 350Ghz Sawtooth that will start up, no chime, and no video. I noticed a bulging capacitor at C83, do you think that could be the problem?
video is a great help tks very much. reat job on the se/30.....I have a se/30 board that was recently re-capped and it has an unusual symptom: after successfully booting it goes into a continuous loop of wanting the user to eject a phantom 3.5 inch floppy disk--NO DISK loaded in drive. I have tried many different boot options, with floppy drive, without floppy drive, extensions on and off...etc....do you have thoughts?
I go through this process in my live streams quite a lot. Basically I add more solder to the hole, more flux, and I use the largest soldering iron tip I have to get more heat on the wick and the hole. I will often have better luck from the other side of the board too. The solder always comes out eventually.
Today, I recapped my first Mac. I had no experience with soldering (especially not with SMD) but it turned out perfect and my Mac is working! Thank you so much for this guide, really helpful.
Thanks and well done!
Watched a bunch of these SE30 restorations. This is the best.
Thank you, very nice videos! I've been fixing a number of 8-bit Commodore computers and soon facing my first Macs. I have Classic and SE.
Thank you so much Bruce, you helped this 20 year old nerd who has never soldered before save an SE/30 from the dump!
Clearly, the one downvote on this video indicates a person who is tired of life.
Bruce, THANK YOU for making these videos!!!
Thanks for the extended video on how to do this properly. I really appreciate your effort and sharing your knowledge.
It gives me the confidence and also shows the right approach to start on some small projects.
Great idea with the box cutter blades and springs. I’ve never seen or tried that previously.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. We need more people like you in this world :)
I've successfully recapped my second Macintosh SE/30 logic board (the first one was kind of a mess but I learned a lot from it) thanks to this guide.
I'm now waiting for the capacitors for the Colour Classic, can't wait to get that one up and running!
Enjoyed watching an expert at work. Thank you. You deserve a lot more views. While I understand the importance of the full length process, you could also do a 10-20 minute edited highlights version - just a thought.
Yes, I do go on a bit...
Excellent instructional video. Great job! This is the most thorough explanation of the recapping process that I've ever seen online. The microscope view really helps to see exactly what you're doing as your describing it. If I lived in Australia, I'd send you all my logic boards to have recapped. After watching you at work, I have the utmost confidence you'd do a thorough and accurate job. By the way, your website is a very good resource as well. Keep up the good work. Cheers, mate!
Hi Bruce! I think your videos are great. You have a teacher's demeanor and patience when describing what you're doing. I hope your channel catches on.
I'm having some issues repairing a Mac Plus of mine, I'm wondering if you have any suggestions?
The computer was functional, but the screen was flickering, even after replacing the caps on the analogue board. I know that the flyback is a common failure point, so I decided to resolder the pins on the flyback. Starting up again, all seemed well until BANG. A blown component, and flup flup noises.
Long story short, I've replaced many components including diodes, rectifiers, transistors, resistors, more caps, and reflowed all the connector joints, all per David Pina's books, but it still doesn't go (stays black, and flupping or chirping noises).
Replacement flybacks for compact macs are getting rarer and quite expensive ($99 US currently). Is there anything else that could be done? And if the flyback is toast, is it possible to substitute for a different, less expensive one?
Thank you!
Hi Nate, glad you enjoyed the video. I'm more than happy to try and help with the Mac Plus, if I can. Can you describe the symptoms?
I am getting ready to do a full complete 6100 refurb.
Fantastic and educational video , thank you
Hi, I have a G4 350Ghz Sawtooth that will start up, no chime, and no video. I noticed a bulging capacitor at C83, do you think that could be the problem?
Thanks! Getting to do mu own SE/30. How about recap videos for the SE/30 analog board and PSU?
Yep, there will be videos for both of these in the future!
Great work my friend!
Thanks for this! You don’t seem to worry about static electricity here?
video is a great help tks very much. reat job on the se/30.....I have a se/30 board that was recently
re-capped and it has an unusual symptom: after successfully booting it goes into a continuous loop of wanting the user to eject a phantom 3.5
inch floppy disk--NO DISK loaded in drive. I have tried many different boot options, with floppy drive, without floppy drive, extensions on and
off...etc....do you have thoughts?
what a resource - thank you!
Love ya, Bruce!!
Love ya, Fredrick!
Out of curiosity, how much does this procedure cost at the time of this video including the capacitors and your labor?
recapamac.com.au/recapping-service/
can the 470 m capacitor be a different voltage
Yes, you can go up in voltage, but not down. So a 25V, 35V or even a 50V would be fine.
Great video!
Anyone in Victoria able to recap? I don’t have the equipment or knowledge to do myself .
39:25 I'm watching this video specifically because I am having a problem with this and you skipped it :D
I go through this process in my live streams quite a lot. Basically I add more solder to the hole, more flux, and I use the largest soldering iron tip I have to get more heat on the wick and the hole. I will often have better luck from the other side of the board too. The solder always comes out eventually.
@@BranchusCreations I was just watching your recent Mac SE/30 recap stream and saw your technique. It worked a charm!
Guess I'm the only one who noticed the little spider at 2:06?