Thanks Todd, very helpful. Just got a 120 Prado myself and am learning how to do repairs like this. Saw you on Modified and was interested to see that you've got your own channel.
Watched this with interest. Had my inner boot go on rhs. Stripped everything and couldn't crack steering knuckle. Turn steering totally to right. The inner joint looked different on mine. I cleaned out housing and filled grease into it. Stripped the inner drive of shaft and fitted new boot. Rebuilt CV joint in situ. Replaced everything in reverse order and so far all good. Also had a leak on front drive on transfer case. Stripped out put new seal and all good again. Must admit I was wary of pulling inner housing out of front diff. Bit difficult to do in situ but doable.😊
Good on you mate, yeah those tie rod ends can be tricky, but a little tie rod knuckle puller really makes this easier. About $20 from Supercheap and it uses a bolt to put pressure on the joint, helping to pull the tie rod off the steering knuckle. But hey you persevered and got the job done, well done mate!
hey mate, big fan of your vids almost watch all of them, nice and easy methods, I have learnt some of your Trix and they were handy to use on my 120 Prado, one thing I have noticed you do is that you tide your tyres nuts by standing up the brake bar, from my experience working in tyres industry as a tyre fitter the torque for the 120 Prado is 83 ft/lbf for alloy wheels, steel wheel can go up to 100ft/lbf. just wanted to share some knowledge with you, keep up the great work, regards from Melbourne
Hi Mo, thanks so much for your kind words, I really appreciate it. I never stand on the breaker bar to tighten wheel nuts, but yes I do use it for tightening them. I don't have a torque wrench at home and as such I go by the rule that you should tighten your wheel nuts with the same tool you plan to take them off with on the side of the road. That way you never over tighten them and cant get them off. Thanks again, have a good one. Sorry about the lockdowns haha
Great video, if anyone has problems with the hub nut, i used a 1/2” rattle gun with a 1/2”-3/4” converter. Socket size was 1-3/8”. Pre soak it with some spray and rattle it off slowly.
No need to remove the cups unless you see weeping or you just feel that you have to. (preventative maintenance). 👍 Toyota cv joints are tough, I just clean and repack with moly grease. Be careful when replacing with aftermarket cvs as they aren't balanced like Toyota's are. JS.
Great vid and channel, just wondering if you had any issue with the replacement cv fitting back in?, I can't get it to bump past the clip back into the diff, without clip it slides straight in, greased it, tried every possible angle, tried hammering, swearing, being polite, 4 hours and won't effing budge...
Glad you got it sorted Fred, they can be a bugger to slide in and out of the diff! Lining that inner circlip vertical (with the opening at 12 or 6 O'clock, can't remember which one) seemed to help me out a lot when I was doing it.
Nah mate. Lowering the front diff just reduces your ground clearance, and CVs are easy and cheap to replace if necessary. I have been running GSP standard length driveshafts for years now with a 4" lift with no problems.
That's a really helpful video - thanks for sharing, my 120 needs CV replacement and you've given me a bit of confidence to tackle it myself. Toyota OEM CV's?
Not a problem! The oil seal is exactly the same left to right, and the part number should be in the video. If in doubt, head to amayama.com, put in your VIN or search your Prado model, and it you'll find exploded parts diagrams that will give you part numbers.
Nope, both the same part number. There are no longer driveshafts either, as the hub itself never moves further from the diff, unless you get extended long travel upper and lower control arms, steering arm and such ($$$$$$)
@@offroadcrusader thanks for the reply, 120’s are a great all round car... I keep coming back to them, I’ve got a 4.0ltr now, and loving it ( No DPF, No EGR, No Catch cans )
You don't want to punch the seal too far back or the mating surface on the cv won't fully engage the seal, level with the recess is perfect. Ask me how I know this 😅
I make sure to give them a good long rinse after offroad work. Every few car washes I will get under the car and scrub the chassis and axles, as well as anything I can reach haha. But a bit of tyre foam on the chassis rails and crossmembers after a clean always helps to keep them nice and black.
Hi mate, it would be difficult to diagnose with just a comment, but usually they begin to click on turning, sometimes you get a metallic clunk noise when going over bumps, or they may not make any noises whatsoever until one day they go BANG.
Hi mate, if its really stripped then you will need to either: a) weld a nut to the plug surface then use a spanner to undo it, or; b) buy the removal tool and replacement plug from Kaon online. This is the best long term option and what I would recommend. If you are restrained by time then you could just suck the old oil out of the fill hole but you won't get all of it out. Replacing 90% is still better than nothing though.
Usually I replace things when needed, some I will replace for demonstration purposes as well as preventative maintenance. Everyone uses their Prado different, and as such some cars will last forever with only minor maintenance. I use mine a lot and in harsh conditions, so its only natural that my prado requires more work
@@offroadcrusader I get you and appreciate all your efforts. Although our conditions in SA are equally harsh, I don't use my Prado enough, this requires remediation.
Hey mate, just found this channel. Top stuff, great video! I’ll be checking out the rest later on. Was that diff oil contaminated? Or just way too long overdue?
Cheers mate, really appreciate it! The oil was contaminated, but that was due to the diff seals being faulty, which let contaminants into the diff which fouled the oil. But that oil was only in the car for about 10,000kms and the seal had been leaking for about 500km so it wouldn't have done any damage.
Hi Todd, great videos, but wanted to point out at ruclips.net/video/SvwKtBntcmM/видео.html (14:36) I believe you have put the seal in too far. I actually did the same thing, cause I didn't pay attention to where it was before I pulled it out. New one leaked...so when I pulled it apart to do it again, I found your video and saw you did the same...I eventually found in the manual where it says to put it in 5.3mm which is about two pubic hairs past the housing reduction (As you can see where yours was in the pre-removal). I think it may be worth while noting this in your description, or re-editing the video adding it in. Did yours leak after that?
Thanks for the feedback mate. Haven't had any leaks so far, as the mating surface between the seal and shaft is quite wide, so the room for error is wide as well. The problem with the seal leaking is usually a case of it not being installed perfectly square, resulting in a corner of the seal wearing quicker than the rest and allowing oil past.
@@offroadcrusader ok cool, glad yours isn't leaking. My manual indicates 5.3mm install depth. I did it like yours which, at a guess (I didn't measure) was about 10mm. Anyways, for anyone reading this comment in future, make sure you check the depth it is supposed to be installed :)
Thanks Todd, very helpful. Just got a 120 Prado myself and am learning how to do repairs like this. Saw you on Modified and was interested to see that you've got your own channel.
Welcome aboard!
Watched this with interest. Had my inner boot go on rhs. Stripped everything and couldn't crack steering knuckle. Turn steering totally to right. The inner joint looked different on mine. I cleaned out housing and filled grease into it. Stripped the inner drive of shaft and fitted new boot. Rebuilt CV joint in situ. Replaced everything in reverse order and so far all good. Also had a leak on front drive on transfer case. Stripped out put new seal and all good again. Must admit I was wary of pulling inner housing out of front diff. Bit difficult to do in situ but doable.😊
Good on you mate, yeah those tie rod ends can be tricky, but a little tie rod knuckle puller really makes this easier. About $20 from Supercheap and it uses a bolt to put pressure on the joint, helping to pull the tie rod off the steering knuckle.
But hey you persevered and got the job done, well done mate!
Good video, lots of helpful tips, well done, thanks for video 👍
Glad it was helpful!
God I love the 120’s.
And your a maroons supporter to.top bloke :)
Great video mate. Awesome job and great at explaining what and how you're doing it.
Thank you
Cheers Damien, really appreciate your feedback!
Use a blow torch next time it'll help loosen it up
hey mate, big fan of your vids almost watch all of them, nice and easy methods, I have learnt some of your Trix and they were handy to use on my 120 Prado, one thing I have noticed you do is that you tide your tyres nuts by standing up the brake bar, from my experience working in tyres industry as a tyre fitter the torque for the 120 Prado is 83 ft/lbf for alloy wheels, steel wheel can go up to 100ft/lbf. just wanted to share some knowledge with you, keep up the great work, regards from Melbourne
Hi Mo, thanks so much for your kind words, I really appreciate it.
I never stand on the breaker bar to tighten wheel nuts, but yes I do use it for tightening them. I don't have a torque wrench at home and as such I go by the rule that you should tighten your wheel nuts with the same tool you plan to take them off with on the side of the road. That way you never over tighten them and cant get them off.
Thanks again, have a good one. Sorry about the lockdowns haha
Nice work..keep up the good work.
Great video, if anyone has problems with the hub nut, i used a 1/2” rattle gun with a 1/2”-3/4” converter. Socket size was 1-3/8”. Pre soak it with some spray and rattle it off slowly.
Did you spray paint your wheel wells ? And what paint did you use ?
Just bought a 120 series, great videos to watch should anything happen on mine 🤞🏽
Great videos Todd, I wish I could get off my backside and get my 120 V6 decked out like yours.
Cheers mate, just pick little jobs and start working on them one by one!
No need to remove the cups unless you see weeping or you just feel that you have to. (preventative maintenance). 👍 Toyota cv joints are tough, I just clean and repack with moly grease. Be careful when replacing with aftermarket cvs as they aren't balanced like Toyota's are. JS.
Wheel alignment after CV drive shaft replacement or not necessary? Thanks
Not really required, as you aren't changing the suspension geometry
Hi there is the hub side seal built into the new drive shaft ?
Thanks Chris
Hi Chris,
The seal is part of the hub, not the driveshaft. There is a seal on the diff end though.
Great vid and channel, just wondering if you had any issue with the replacement cv fitting back in?, I can't get it to bump past the clip back into the diff, without clip it slides straight in, greased it, tried every possible angle, tried hammering, swearing, being polite, 4 hours and won't effing budge...
got it i finally, used the whole CV assembly as a slide hammer after aligning the splines, popped in fairly easily
Glad you got it sorted Fred, they can be a bugger to slide in and out of the diff! Lining that inner circlip vertical (with the opening at 12 or 6 O'clock, can't remember which one) seemed to help me out a lot when I was doing it.
What brand cv you go for and how much were the caps? Awesome video 👍
Prado 120 adventures, Time to hit the road
Good video. Where do you buy the correct seals
Hey mate, cheers for the feedback.
Usually I will buy them through Toyota, but you can get them online from places like Amayama or Partsoq
Is that an OEM CV if not where did you get it from struggling finding a good CV driveshaft?
Its a GSP brand CV Driveshaft
Is the driver side and passenger side cvs just the same specs? Thanks Todd
Yeah passenger and drivers side driveshafts are the same part number
@@offroadcrusader cheers thanks mate
How do you like your suspension setup so far? What, if anything, would you change about it?
Did you do a diff drop and/or extended length CV drive shafts, as you have a lift kit?
Nah mate. Lowering the front diff just reduces your ground clearance, and CVs are easy and cheap to replace if necessary. I have been running GSP standard length driveshafts for years now with a 4" lift with no problems.
That's a really helpful video - thanks for sharing, my 120 needs CV replacement and you've given me a bit of confidence to tackle it myself. Toyota OEM CV's?
Thanks for the helpful videos mate. Do you have the part numbers for the left and right side oil seals? Thanks
Not a problem!
The oil seal is exactly the same left to right, and the part number should be in the video. If in doubt, head to amayama.com, put in your VIN or search your Prado model, and it you'll find exploded parts diagrams that will give you part numbers.
hey mate, great in depth video! would you by any chance have a list of everything in the video?
Hi mate, cheers for the feedback! What parts did you need a list of?
is there a difference between LH and RH CV joints? length etc
Nope, both the same part number. There are no longer driveshafts either, as the hub itself never moves further from the diff, unless you get extended long travel upper and lower control arms, steering arm and such ($$$$$$)
@@offroadcrusader thanks for the reply, 120’s are a great all round car... I keep coming back to them, I’ve got a 4.0ltr now, and loving it ( No DPF, No EGR, No Catch cans )
What part of Shaft is ABS sensor reading? Just wondering if I need to change the full shaft or just part of it.
Usually its actually in the wheel bearing as it spins, where the inner race of the bearing spins while the outer housing stays still.
You don't want to punch the seal too far back or the mating surface on the cv won't fully engage the seal, level with the recess is perfect. Ask me how I know this 😅
Exactly mate, you're on the money. I'm guessing you learnt the same way as I did haha
Unrelated question, Can you advice how you keep the chassis rails so clean?
I make sure to give them a good long rinse after offroad work. Every few car washes I will get under the car and scrub the chassis and axles, as well as anything I can reach haha. But a bit of tyre foam on the chassis rails and crossmembers after a clean always helps to keep them nice and black.
@@offroadcrusader thanks 👍
Great video Todd.is there a video on how to diagnose if you think your cvs might be on the way out? I think mine are
Hi mate, it would be difficult to diagnose with just a comment, but usually they begin to click on turning, sometimes you get a metallic clunk noise when going over bumps, or they may not make any noises whatsoever until one day they go BANG.
@@offroadcrusader ok no worries thanks Todd.great channel mate,I'm subbed
@@faithcomesbyhearing682 thanks for your support mate!
Hey Todd, if the front diff drain plug is really worn out, would it worth the risk to get it off or just by a pump to pump out the oil instead? Cheers
Hi mate, if its really stripped then you will need to either:
a) weld a nut to the plug surface then use a spanner to undo it, or;
b) buy the removal tool and replacement plug from Kaon online. This is the best long term option and what I would recommend. If you are restrained by time then you could just suck the old oil out of the fill hole but you won't get all of it out. Replacing 90% is still better than nothing though.
@@offroadcrusader Thanks very much for the info! Will definitely have a look the removal tools!
Good job mate - Get an Impact wrench
Don't worry, it's on the wishlist!
I have been wondering, none of these things have gone on my 2008 1kz-te with 350k on the odo. Are you just showing us or do you need to replace?
Usually I replace things when needed, some I will replace for demonstration purposes as well as preventative maintenance.
Everyone uses their Prado different, and as such some cars will last forever with only minor maintenance. I use mine a lot and in harsh conditions, so its only natural that my prado requires more work
@@offroadcrusader I get you and appreciate all your efforts. Although our conditions in SA are equally harsh, I don't use my Prado enough, this requires remediation.
Hey mate, just found this channel. Top stuff, great video! I’ll be checking out the rest later on.
Was that diff oil contaminated? Or just way too long overdue?
Cheers mate, really appreciate it!
The oil was contaminated, but that was due to the diff seals being faulty, which let contaminants into the diff which fouled the oil.
But that oil was only in the car for about 10,000kms and the seal had been leaking for about 500km so it wouldn't have done any damage.
Hi Todd, great videos, but wanted to point out at ruclips.net/video/SvwKtBntcmM/видео.html (14:36) I believe you have put the seal in too far.
I actually did the same thing, cause I didn't pay attention to where it was before I pulled it out. New one leaked...so when I pulled it apart to do it again, I found your video and saw you did the same...I eventually found in the manual where it says to put it in 5.3mm which is about two pubic hairs past the housing reduction (As you can see where yours was in the pre-removal).
I think it may be worth while noting this in your description, or re-editing the video adding it in. Did yours leak after that?
Thanks for the feedback mate.
Haven't had any leaks so far, as the mating surface between the seal and shaft is quite wide, so the room for error is wide as well. The problem with the seal leaking is usually a case of it not being installed perfectly square, resulting in a corner of the seal wearing quicker than the rest and allowing oil past.
@@offroadcrusader ok cool, glad yours isn't leaking. My manual indicates 5.3mm install depth. I did it like yours which, at a guess (I didn't measure) was about 10mm. Anyways, for anyone reading this comment in future, make sure you check the depth it is supposed to be installed :)