As previous comments, I want to THANK YOU for posting this video!! You saved yet another battery tender from going to the landfield!! I was on Amazon about to place an order when I thought I would check RUclips to see what the codes meant. I found your video and am so thankful for your posting!!
Thank you SIR for posting this video. As many others who commented, I had a rapid flashing green light. I replaced the capacitor and was able to restore the function of the charger. Your advice and guidance is truly appreciated!
You are the man! I have eight of these rascals running 24/7 and three of them have quit over the last 6 months. I done the capacitor swap out like you demonstrated and fixed all three. Thank you!
You sir made my day! I bought an assortment of 240 caps like you have for 10 bucks from Amazon. So if you break it down per cap I fixed my tender for under a nickel!
I have twenty some bikes in my garage ( i know i am crazy), bought one battery tender jr. for each of my bike, it does keep those batteries life much longer (9-10 years), however started 2 years ago, the chargers went bad one by one, which led me to buy the Schumacher chargers, so far so good, i'm glad that i didn't throw the bad chargers to the trash can, right before i watched your video, i did disassembly the Battery Tender Jr.chargers and checked the capacitors, no surprise that none of them have continually, so i believe your diagnosis is right, thanks for sharing this video and may save me a whole bunch.
I was about to throw away my Battery Tender that stopped working (rapid flashing green LED) after 5 years. Luckily, I found this video, bought the capacitor from Fry’s Electronic to replace the bad one. Now, my Battery Tender is back to service. Thanks a lot.
The light on mine was flashing green rapidly and then eventually stopped all together. I had a 50V 47uF hanging around that I put in there and it is functioning once again. 20 cents and a few minutes. saved me from buying a new one. Thanks for making this video.
Tom excellent video!! i had 4 dead tender jrs with exact same problem, ordered 220 mF 25 volt electrlytic capacitors for $6 on amazon, soldered in all 4, and they worked!! Saved 4 x $30 for $120 savings!! Thank you!!!
I replaced the capacitor on one of mine today and it fixed it! I have three more of these with the same problem and I ordered enough capacitors to try to repair them too. Thanks for the video!
Thanks so much for this, I successfully repaired mine today. I spent a couple of extra bucks and went with a 47uF 25V tantalum capacitor, so I hopefully won't ever have to do it again!
This is the updated about 4 months ago that i left the comments earlier, i've changed the capacitor of 5 of the Battery Tenders Junior and now they all returned to service without any problem, actually i just changed one right before i wrote this comment, i just don't bother to test them at all, just desoldering the old capacitor and throw the new one in, when they go bad, they all will flashing between red and green light when hook up to my bike's battery, thanks for your video consider i saved myself more than $150 so far and will be even more in the future.
Yeah I can vouch for this guy. I have four of these hooked up to various equipment. One of them started FAST flashing green from the LED. Took it apart, desoldered and the only electrolyte capacitor on the board. I checked the capacitor with my ESR meter and it was a dead. Replaced with a new capacitor that was literally a couple of cents, and its as good as new. If you can work a screwdriver and a soldering iron you can save yourself $50! You will need a 47 Micro Farad capacitor, rated for 25v or higher. ( you must use a capacitor of the correct Farad rating, but you can use one with a higher Voltage rating than 25v if that's all you have - but not lower voltage rating than the original ). Make sure that you solder it in with the correct polarity! One side of the cap is marked with '-' signs, and the board will generally have a + marked near to where the capacitor is placed. Easy!
Thank you, I had three of then that all developed issue within weeks of each other. I was able to fix two of them. The third, which already had a hot electronics smell when I opened it, had a component smoke when I installed the new capacitor. Anyway, 2 out of three isn't bad. That's $50 saved. Thank you.
I found this video close to a year ago and fixed 2 of my battery tenders that are still working fine today. Purchased a box of capacitors on Amazon. I believe there were 15 of the type that match this battery tender in the kit and some others that should work if needed. Yesterday I saw another of my battery tenders of the older type like my other 2 that match the one in this video flashing green and red. The cars battery looked to be charged so I disconnected that battery tender and replaced it with one of the two I repaired a year ago. It went right to a red light charging. Haven’t gone back out to check it yet today to see if it has a steady green light yet. I am just curious if any others on here came across any of their Battery Tenders flashing green to red back and forth and if they know what it means. Not sure if I have a problem with this one or not. My next step will be to swap this tender with another working on one of my vehicles. I have them on 2 lawn tractors,a Quad and fork lift also. So swapping it with another for testing is no big deal. Once again this one is flashing green to red back and forth. 10/18/22 2 week later Add on: the 3rd older Battery Tender I wasn’t sure of that I found connected to one of my vehicles flashing red and green I took apart and that capacitor looked suspect so I decided to desolder it and replace it. Went to check it out in my barn on a vehicle and the light was solid green. This is now the 3rd battery Tender of the older heavier square type that I repaired on the cheap. Remember I said I purchased a whole plastic box of capacitors of this type on Amazon. It was on 12/21/2021, 500Pcs 24 Values Electrolytic Capacitor Kit Range 0.1uF-1000uF, 10V 16V 25V 50V Aluminum. I paid $11.99 for them and there were at least 15 of the 25 Volt that matched the capacitor in the Battery Tender perfectly. Well worth the money I was charged even if it was just for the 15 I would be using but from what I read there are others I should be able to use if the need presented itself. Penny’s a piece being there were 500 altogether.
Mine was flashing red/green rapidly and the new cap fixed it. Thanks! The new model 003 Battery Tender Jr has a much smaller transformer and is much lighter. We will see how the repaired model compares to the new lighter version as they will run side by side.
I have one of these that had the same problem. I was all set to replace the pass transistor, but mine was still good. New electrolytic and it has been going strong for about a year now.
I forgot to leave a commit on the repair of the tender, just what to say Thanks' for the video it worked, there another video out there that shows how to check capacitor on /off the board and when I check mine it wasn't fully discharging.
Two points... The Battery Tender circuit board is marked for the positive side of the capacitor, and you mention that your caps were marked with the negative terminal. Let me tell you - some capacitors are marked on the positive, some are marked on the negative. It depends on the manufacturer of the capacitors, and sometimes it depends on which product line within that manufacturer! The important thing is just to match the polarity. Second, before you say you have a bad BT you need to test it with a known good battery. The BT has to see two or three volts of the proper polarity from the battery to turn on. If you have a totally flat battery it will not switch on, ever. You can "jump start" the BT by paralleling another battery across it for three to five seconds - even a 9v transistor radio battery will do it. When you remove the 'jump start" battery the BT should stay on. If it doesn't, try again for three to five seconds. If it still doesn't stay on then you need to try charging the battery with a less intelligent unit, one that doesn't need the two or three volts. So use the dumb charger for a while then try the BT again.
Great video. Thanks so much for the help. I was able to fix it by doing excacly what you said . Generous people like yourself is what makes youtube so great!!!
Phillip: On my charger the positive wire is the wire going to the bare male connector at the plug. The cord has two wires, the one with printing is the negative wire the one without printing is positive. As you take the cover off of the charger itself, the positive wire is located at about the middle of the board. It connects near a point labeled E3. Hope this helps
Good video. Two questions: 1. Bad capacitors usually burst or bulge when they go bad, but mine looks fine. How did yours look? 2. Everyone else describes an odd flashing pattern on the LED when theirs went bad, but on mine it stopped coming on at all when it stopped working. Thoughts, anyone? The in-line fuse was intact, so I ruled that out.
My capacitors showed no visible sign of failure. Sometimes electrolytic capacitors will bulge on the end when they fail or are about to fail, but not always.. With the right equipment it could be possible to check the capacitor. But to do so you would have to unsolder at least one of the two leads. After going through all that trouble best to just replace the thing and be done with it. No light at all? You might have a bad LED or a more serious issue. Don't be surprised if the capacitor fix doesn't work this time.
Mine will flash green rapidly (flicker) when plugged in. It does not matter whether or not the battery is attached. After flickering for three or four minutes it goes red for a second, then green for a half second, then repeats. Maybe the cap is bad in mine. Will try this shortly. Thanks for your video!
Guretro: If you will read comments below, you will find Frank1380 and Capt Vimes had tenders with a problem at least somewhat like yours in that they have a flashing green light. The fix worked for them, hope it works for you too.
Thomas Burdsall I already tested the capacitor. It is bad. Looks like this is the weak point on these little gems. I have five bikes and this kept them going, but couldn't do them all. I just bought a Battery Tender 4-Bank charger. If this one works when repaired I can maintain all five simultaneously.
My Jr. : The lights seem to be working, but when I put the VOM on it there is no current at the battery end connect. The cord is in great shape, and the unit has always been under cover, above freezing. Thoughts?
The jr senses battery voltage and will not generate any current if not connected to a battery. I suggest that you connect it to the battery and look for voltage at the battery.
My Battery Tender Junior Smart Battery Charger is not charging even though it still shows that everything is fine. If I disconnect one of the charging lines, the LED indicator would flash red light indicating it's not hooked up properly. If all lines are hooked up correctly it shows charging with a solid red indicator. But the charge never turned green, or flashing green, even after a week on an originally 75% charged battery showing 12.45V from the beginning. I hooked up a multimeter and it shows 0 charging current. Any idea on what may be wrong with the unit?
Good Day to You Thomas: Thank You for the great video and information. I have the same charger. My problem is different then yours. I have a dog that decided to chew off the electric cord close to the charger. (Yes, My fault) I still have enough wire that I can repair it. My problem is which one is the positive lead to the battery. I have two leads going into the charger, The upper nearest to the printed name ect. the lower nearest to the wall plug in. On yours, Which one is the positive? Any help would be fantastic. Again Thank You.
Very good video I have a question for you maybe you can answer it I've had this battery tender for a couple years and recently the red light will come on stay on and ask for you able to get hot right after I hooked it up to the bike I know the battery is hot in your opinion do you think the battery tender is gone bad thanks
I am not certain what you are asking. Electrical devices are sometimes said to be "hot" when they are electrically energized. Of course hot can also mean of an elevated temperature. The red light will come on when the battery is charging and is less than 80% of full charge. The charger should not get thermally hot and is too small to get the battery hot. I suggest you try the charger on a battery that you know to be good. If there is a problem with the charger, I doubt my cheap fix will correct it but it might be worth a try. Good luck
I'm getting no output voltage from the secondary windings on the transformer before the circuit board. I presume it is a step down AC from the 110 volts input. Anyone know what the secondary voltage should be? A search of the numbers on the transformer doesn't turn up anything useful.
Hello. My Battery Tender JR, fell to the ground and now the red light does not go out any further. Always stay logged in. I do not think he's carrying any more. Could you please help me by telling me what might have happened? Thank you for your help.
Well, what happened is when you dropped the tender, something broke inside. You will have to open it up and try to determine what broke or disconnected. If the problem is more serious than a loose wire, your chances of repairing are not good.
i have the bigger charger. it has a bad capacitor that i already replaced. then i noticed the transistor beside it has a crack. my problem now is i lost it and i dont know now the specs :(
My guess is no, but that is just a guess. Since it is a cheap fix you could change it and see. Since the battery is charging i suspect that the led may be bad. Again just a guess.
My BT Jr was doing the "fast green blinking" upon plug-in. I replaced the capacitor as recommended (I used one identical to the original, 47uF 25V). After that, the LED indicated correctly. Slow red blink upon plug-in, and solid red upon connection to low battery (about 9V on a 12V auto battery). Left it on overnight, and 18 hrs later, there was no change. So, it looked like it was working again, but it was not charging. Checking the voltage (while connected), the voltage would change between around 9V to 11V to 10V and kind of shoot all around the place between 9 - 11.5V. So, it is still not working. Any ideas, anyone??
In answer to your question, I don't know. However I have a few things you could check. The capacitor fix works on a very common problem with the battery tenders but will not correct every conceivable issue. I suggest that you connect your tender to a known good battery. Since the battery you reference obviously has had some charging issues, lack of a recent proper charge may have done it in. A check of output voltage with the good battery would confirm the the problem is in the tender and not the battery itself. I have experienced problems when I attempted to extend the reach of the tenders wiring. I have found that the charger works best when the supplied wires that include the fuse are connected directly to the battery. While at the battery, make sure you have clean solid connections. The tender reads the battery voltage and makes adjustments to the output based upon those readings. Faulty connections will affect performance. Good luck, I hope that any of this might help. Tom
@@thomasburdsall6151 Thank you so much for your tips. This battery had sat and gotten discharged a couple of times, so it could be the battery. I will test on another good car battery before I give up on this one. Thx.
![FNAF vs TF2 - Episode 2 [SFM]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z5b3V2-VLb0/mqdefault.jpg)
As previous comments, I want to THANK YOU for posting this video!! You saved yet another battery tender from going to the landfield!! I was on Amazon about to place an order when I thought I would check RUclips to see what the codes meant. I found your video and am so thankful for your posting!!
Thank you SIR for posting this video. As many others who commented, I had a rapid flashing green light. I replaced the capacitor and was able to restore the function of the charger. Your advice and guidance is truly appreciated!
You are the man! I have eight of these rascals running 24/7 and three of them have quit over the last 6 months. I done the capacitor swap out like you demonstrated and fixed all three. Thank you!
I guess there is more than one version of the tender jr mine doesn’t look like yours good video anyway thanks
I can't thank you enough! I had the fast flashing green LED and knew the thing wasn't working. I replaced the capacitor and it works correctly again.
This video is still coming in handy in late 2022, got my tender running again.
You sir made my day! I bought an assortment of 240 caps like you have for 10 bucks from Amazon. So if you break it down per cap I fixed my tender for under a nickel!
I have twenty some bikes in my garage ( i know i am crazy), bought one battery tender jr. for each of my bike, it does keep those batteries life much longer (9-10 years), however started 2 years ago, the chargers went bad one by one, which led me to buy the Schumacher chargers, so far so good, i'm glad that i didn't throw the bad chargers to the trash can, right before i watched your video, i did disassembly the Battery Tender Jr.chargers and checked the capacitors, no surprise that none of them have continually, so i believe your diagnosis is right, thanks for sharing this video and may save me a whole bunch.
I was about to throw away my Battery Tender that stopped working (rapid flashing green LED) after 5 years. Luckily, I found this video, bought the capacitor from Fry’s Electronic to replace the bad one. Now, my Battery Tender is back to service. Thanks a lot.
I just repared three off my inopperative battery tenders using your instructions and they now working great. I was going to through them out.
The light on mine was flashing green rapidly and then eventually stopped all together. I had a 50V 47uF hanging around that I put in there and it is functioning once again. 20 cents and a few minutes. saved me from buying a new one. Thanks for making this video.
Tom excellent video!! i had 4 dead tender jrs with exact same problem, ordered 220 mF 25 volt electrlytic capacitors for $6 on amazon, soldered in all 4, and they worked!! Saved 4 x $30 for $120 savings!! Thank you!!!
Thank you. Another one saved. I used a 47uF 50V I had laying around and it worked great!
Another Battery Tender repaired for 37¢ thanks to your good instruction. I owe you a beer.
Great to hear. Just have an extra one for me.
I replaced the capacitor on one of mine today and it fixed it! I have three more of these with the same problem and I ordered enough capacitors to try to repair them too. Thanks for the video!
Thanks so much for this, I successfully repaired mine today. I spent a couple of extra bucks and went with a 47uF 25V tantalum capacitor, so I hopefully won't ever have to do it again!
This is the updated about 4 months ago that i left the comments earlier, i've changed the capacitor of 5 of the Battery Tenders Junior and now they all returned to service without any problem, actually i just changed one right before i wrote this comment, i just don't bother to test them at all, just desoldering the old capacitor and throw the new one in, when they go bad, they all will flashing between red and green light when hook up to my bike's battery, thanks for your video consider i saved myself more than $150 so far and will be even more in the future.
Works like a charm. Thanks, this is my most dependable trickle charger that won't be going into the trash. Great job!!!!!!!
Yeah I can vouch for this guy. I have four of these hooked up to various equipment. One of them started FAST flashing green from the LED. Took it apart, desoldered and the only electrolyte capacitor on the board. I checked the capacitor with my ESR meter and it was a dead. Replaced with a new capacitor that was literally a couple of cents, and its as good as new. If you can work a screwdriver and a soldering iron you can save yourself $50! You will need a 47 Micro Farad capacitor, rated for 25v or higher. ( you must use a capacitor of the correct Farad rating, but you can use one with a higher Voltage rating than 25v if that's all you have - but not lower voltage rating than the original ). Make sure that you solder it in with the correct polarity! One side of the cap is marked with '-' signs, and the board will generally have a + marked near to where the capacitor is placed. Easy!
The capacitor solved the flashing red light problem. I have several of these chargers so I bought a package of 10 caps. Thanks.
Had the rapid green flashing. Followed your tutorial and voila...it works.
Thanks for posting!
Glad to hear. Hope it is good for many more years of use.
This is phenomenal! I just repaired my battery tender for $1.69. Bought a replacement capacitor from Fry's electronics.
Thanks! My Battery Tender Jr just started malfunctioning after 10+ years, gonna repair it with this fix!
Thank you, I had three of then that all developed issue within weeks of each other. I was able to fix two of them. The third, which already had a hot electronics smell when I opened it, had a component smoke when I installed the new capacitor. Anyway, 2 out of three isn't bad. That's $50 saved. Thank you.
This video has helped me as well. Changed the cap and now it works. Many thanks!
Another happy customer! Thank You!!!
Your welcome.
great video repaired three of them i had that stopped working A+ easy directions Works Great
Thank you
Bought mine 4 months ago. Same exact issue. I have a Schumacher 1 amp which has worked fine for 4 years.
A big thank you!
I know tthese devices arent crazy expensive but spendign $2 and 10 min to save $30+ is awesome!
Glad you found my video useful. Thanks for the comment.
Great video! I learned a lot too. Thanks for taking the time to do it!
I found this video close to a year ago and fixed 2 of my battery tenders that are still working fine today. Purchased a box of capacitors on Amazon. I believe there were 15 of the type that match this battery tender in the kit and some others that should work if needed. Yesterday I saw another of my battery tenders of the older type like my other 2 that match the one in this video flashing green and red. The cars battery looked to be charged so I disconnected that battery tender and replaced it with one of the two I repaired a year ago. It went right to a red light charging. Haven’t gone back out to check it yet today to see if it has a steady green light yet. I am just curious if any others on here came across any of their Battery Tenders flashing green to red back and forth and if they know what it means. Not sure if I have a problem with this one or not. My next step will be to swap this tender with another working on one of my vehicles. I have them on 2 lawn tractors,a Quad and fork lift also. So swapping it with another for testing is no big deal. Once again this one is flashing green to red back and forth. 10/18/22 2 week later Add on: the 3rd older Battery Tender I wasn’t sure of that I found connected to one of my vehicles flashing red and green I took apart and that capacitor looked suspect so I decided to desolder it and replace it. Went to check it out in my barn on a vehicle and the light was solid green. This is now the 3rd battery Tender of the older heavier square type that I repaired on the cheap. Remember I said I purchased a whole plastic box of capacitors of this type on Amazon. It was on 12/21/2021, 500Pcs 24 Values Electrolytic Capacitor Kit Range 0.1uF-1000uF, 10V 16V 25V 50V Aluminum. I paid $11.99 for them and there were at least 15 of the 25 Volt that matched the capacitor in the Battery Tender perfectly. Well worth the money I was charged even if it was just for the 15 I would be using but from what I read there are others I should be able to use if the need presented itself. Penny’s a piece being there were 500 altogether.
Mine was flashing red/green rapidly and the new cap fixed it. Thanks! The new model 003 Battery Tender Jr has a much smaller transformer and is much lighter. We will see how the repaired model compares to the new lighter version as they will run side by side.
I have one of these that had the same problem. I was all set to replace the pass transistor, but mine was still good. New electrolytic and it has been going strong for about a year now.
thanks from another cheap and curious gearhead
I forgot to leave a commit on the repair of the tender, just what to say Thanks' for the video it worked, there another video out there that shows how to check capacitor on /off the board and when I check mine it wasn't fully discharging.
Two points...
The Battery Tender circuit board is marked for the positive side of the capacitor, and you mention that your caps were marked with the negative terminal. Let me tell you - some capacitors are marked on the positive, some are marked on the negative. It depends on the manufacturer of the capacitors, and sometimes it depends on which product line within that manufacturer! The important thing is just to match the polarity.
Second, before you say you have a bad BT you need to test it with a known good battery. The BT has to see two or three volts of the proper polarity from the battery to turn on. If you have a totally flat battery it will not switch on, ever. You can "jump start" the BT by paralleling another battery across it for three to five seconds - even a 9v transistor radio battery will do it. When you remove the 'jump start" battery the BT should stay on. If it doesn't, try again for three to five seconds. If it still doesn't stay on then you need to try charging the battery with a less intelligent unit, one that doesn't need the two or three volts. So use the dumb charger for a while then try the BT again.
Mike, good points. Don't assume your charger is bad until it hasn't worked with a known good battery.
Great video. Thanks so much for the help. I was able to fix it by doing excacly what you said . Generous people like yourself is what makes youtube so great!!!
Phillip: On my charger the positive wire is the wire going to the bare male connector at the plug. The cord has two wires, the one with printing is the negative wire the one without printing is positive. As you take the cover off of the charger itself, the positive wire is located at about the middle of the board. It connects near a point labeled E3. Hope this helps
Worked for me! Thanks!
Radio Shack has 47 uF 35V 20% Radial-Lead Electrolytic Capacitors. Would that work ok?
Does anyone know how to fix the newer ones?
We use them. Excellent.
Good video. Two questions:
1. Bad capacitors usually burst or bulge when they go bad, but mine looks fine. How did yours look?
2. Everyone else describes an odd flashing pattern on the LED when theirs went bad, but on mine it stopped coming on at all when it stopped working. Thoughts, anyone?
The in-line fuse was intact, so I ruled that out.
My capacitors showed no visible sign of failure. Sometimes electrolytic capacitors will bulge on the end when they fail or are about to fail, but not always.. With the right equipment it could be possible to check the capacitor. But to do so you would have to unsolder at least one of the two leads. After going through all that trouble best to just replace the thing and be done with it.
No light at all? You might have a bad LED or a more serious issue. Don't be surprised if the capacitor fix doesn't work this time.
my LED doesn't work at all. did you ever find the problem ? thanks
Mine will flash green rapidly (flicker) when plugged in. It does not matter whether or not the battery is attached. After flickering for three or four minutes it goes red for a second, then green for a half second, then repeats. Maybe the cap is bad in mine. Will try this shortly. Thanks for your video!
Guretro: If you will read comments below, you will find Frank1380 and Capt Vimes had tenders with a problem at least somewhat like yours in that they have a flashing green light. The fix worked for them, hope it works for you too.
Thomas Burdsall I already tested the capacitor. It is bad. Looks like this is the weak point on these little gems. I have five bikes and this kept them going, but couldn't do them all. I just bought a Battery Tender 4-Bank charger. If this one works when repaired I can maintain all five simultaneously.
My Jr. : The lights seem to be working, but when I put the VOM on it there is no current at the battery end connect. The cord is in great shape, and the unit has always been under cover, above freezing. Thoughts?
The jr senses battery voltage and will not generate any current if not connected to a battery. I suggest that you connect it to the battery and look for voltage at the battery.
My Battery Tender Junior Smart Battery Charger is not charging even though it still shows that everything is fine. If I disconnect one of the charging lines, the LED indicator would flash red light indicating it's not hooked up properly. If all lines are hooked up correctly it shows charging with a solid red indicator. But the charge never turned green, or flashing green, even after a week on an originally 75% charged battery showing 12.45V from the beginning. I hooked up a multimeter and it shows 0 charging current. Any idea on what may be wrong with the unit?
My battery Tender Junior 110v has no fuse protection by mistake plugged it in 220v could you help
Good Day to You Thomas: Thank You for the great video and information. I have the same charger. My problem is different then yours. I have a dog that decided to chew off the electric cord close to the charger. (Yes, My fault) I still have enough wire that I can repair it. My problem is which one is the positive lead to the battery. I have two leads going into the charger, The upper nearest to the printed name ect. the lower nearest to the wall plug in. On yours, Which one is the positive? Any help would be fantastic. Again Thank You.
Very good video I have a question for you maybe you can answer it I've had this battery tender for a couple years and recently the red light will come on stay on and ask for you able to get hot right after I hooked it up to the bike I know the battery is hot in your opinion do you think the battery tender is gone bad thanks
I am not certain what you are asking. Electrical devices are sometimes said to be "hot" when they are electrically energized. Of course hot can also mean of an elevated temperature. The red light will come on when the battery is charging and is less than 80% of full charge. The charger should not get thermally hot and is too small to get the battery hot. I suggest you try the charger on a battery that you know to be good. If there is a problem with the charger, I doubt my cheap fix will correct it but it might be worth a try. Good luck
@@thomasburdsall1564 thank you very much sir stay healthy
Thank you that worked for me.
Glad to hear it.
very useful!
I'm getting no output voltage from the secondary windings on the
transformer before the circuit board. I presume it is a step down AC
from the 110 volts input. Anyone know what the secondary voltage should
be? A search of the numbers on the transformer doesn't turn up
anything useful.
Hello.
My Battery Tender JR, fell to the ground and now the red light does not go out any further. Always stay logged in. I do not think he's carrying any more.
Could you please help me by telling me what might have happened?
Thank you for your help.
Well, what happened is when you dropped the tender, something broke inside. You will have to open it up and try to determine what broke or disconnected. If the problem is more serious than a loose wire, your chances of repairing are not good.
i have the bigger charger. it has a bad capacitor that i already replaced. then i noticed the transistor beside it has a crack. my problem now is i lost it and i dont know now the specs :(
capasidence?
Mine is showing nothing, no light ... the battery is charged. Do you think it could be the capacitor?
My guess is no, but that is just a guess. Since it is a cheap fix you could change it and see. Since the battery is charging i suspect that the led may be bad. Again just a guess.
Thank you!
How did you determine you needed to change that particular capacitor???
It is the only capacitor.
@@thomasburdsall1564 THANX but, I understand that but how did you troubleshoot it to determine the capacitor was the problem?
@@jp040759 Watch the video again. The thought process is clearly defined.
@@thomasburdsall1564 THANX Got it now.
My BT Jr was doing the "fast green blinking" upon plug-in. I replaced the capacitor as recommended (I used one identical to the original, 47uF 25V). After that, the LED indicated correctly. Slow red blink upon plug-in, and solid red upon connection to low battery (about 9V on a 12V auto battery). Left it on overnight, and 18 hrs later, there was no change. So, it looked like it was working again, but it was not charging. Checking the voltage (while connected), the voltage would change between around 9V to 11V to 10V and kind of shoot all around the place between 9 - 11.5V. So, it is still not working. Any ideas, anyone??
In answer to your question, I don't know. However I have a few things you could check. The capacitor fix works on a very common problem with the battery tenders but will not correct every conceivable issue.
I suggest that you connect your tender to a known good battery. Since the battery you reference obviously has had some charging issues, lack of a recent proper charge may have done it in. A check of output voltage with the good battery would confirm the the problem is in the tender and not the battery itself.
I have experienced problems when I attempted to extend the reach of the tenders wiring. I have found that the charger works best when the supplied wires that include the fuse are connected directly to the battery. While at the battery, make sure you have clean solid connections. The tender reads the battery voltage and makes adjustments to the output based upon those readings. Faulty connections will affect performance.
Good luck, I hope that any of this might help.
Tom
@@thomasburdsall6151 Thank you so much for your tips. This battery had sat and gotten discharged a couple of times, so it could be the battery. I will test on another good car battery before I give up on this one. Thx.