I like this series on rivets. Looks like you keep on giving me plenty of projects to do! I like that! Thanks again for my Bent Knee Tongs I purchased to work on railroad spikes! They're working great!
Mark, I'm very glad the tongs suit you thus far. This button rivet header needs some tweaking as well as my technique - something for a future video. I have a couple of railroad spikes that I may use for a future project too.Thanks.
I used to buy all my rivets but good quality rivets became harder to find. Also, like you mention, you can tailor homemade rivets to suit you need. Thanks.
Hey Glen, friend this video is darn good! I really like your style of tools. I'm becoming a better blacksmith watching you. So, keep doing you my friend.
Christopher, Glad you like this. But this tool and my technique needs some tweaking. One commenter gave good advice about the diameter of the dome needing to be double the diameter of the stock in order to create a proper button head. I will make some adjustments and see what happens. Anyway, making your own rivets can add versatility... Thanks.
Glen, I read that comment also. I watch Daniels channel too, he's a talented smith. I understand things could always use a little tweaking here and there, it's your ideas and methods that I appreciate. I'm not skilled enough to copy what you do, but similar, I can handle that. Thanks again
The making of this tool went better than the making of the actual rivets. I need to adjust my technique some for these button head style rivets. Thanks.
Glen, observing how things moved, it seems to me that a greater shoulder would be produced by giving it a couple of good whollops with the hammer to set the shoulder, then quickly switching to the rounding header tool. I think that due to the concavity exerting more pressure (impact) on the edges of the rivet, it tends to bow (doughnut) the steel out, rather than the flat hammer driving it straight down onto the shoulder. Great video and great exercise/project!
Yes, on my last try in this video, I did exactly that and found that may produce a better result. But I need to tweak this tool some, in addition to my technique, for making these style rivets better. Thanks.
Hey Glen, great video as usual. The tools and hammers I’ve bought from you over the years are still my favorites. One idea I would like to share with you is maybe to take the handle of the rivet holder and bend it down to drop into your hardy hole. Or twist the end around a piece of square stock that can drop in,So you don’t have to manage two handled tools at the same time. Great videos as always, brother. Thanks for taking the time to share. -Rich Dire Wolf Forge
another great video glen!I like your style.some people just peen the head over with a hammer but youve made your own tool for this specific purpose.very cool.
I just love your tooling. I started building my order for tools from you but the price tag got too high as my greed took over. I'm in the process of whittling it down to acceptable levels....
Love your videos's, good discriptions, good camera work and no messing around. Love your attention to detail. If you can't make your very own specific tools, how will you make any projects come to live. What size round stock do you use for your handles?
Jeff, I'm very glad you enjoy my videos. I honestly need to improve the quality; video and audio as well as content but I guess one step at a time... I normally use 8mm round for my handles. Thanks for watching and for your support. Glen
Any advise on how to heat up a small rivet in a home made forge? Meaning how do i not lose the little rivet in the forge? If it makes it tp the bottom it could actually fall through to the bottom of my clean out pipe.
I see a lot of smiths just not cut the rivet quite all the way off. This lets them use the rest of the stock as a handle, and when they put it in the heading tool, they just snap off that tiny bit of material that's holding the rivet to the rest of the round stock.
Hi Glen nice video dude. Im sure this will be taken the wrong way but hell I'm going to say it any way. First thing is the name of the tool is a rivet snap. Just cause someone started calling it a header at some point doesn't make it the right name its a snap. Secondly as for the rule for the height or "guide lines as you called them" the head sizes have the same rule. The diameter of the dome should be at lest 1 times the diameter of the starting stock. So a 8mm bar would take a 16mm snap. yours looks way to small hence no shoulder. I'm sure you will take this as a dig but that's how I see it. Nice connection to the tool i have used and seen lots of tools held this way.
Daniel, No offense taken at all. It's good to learn something new. I think the name is neither here nor there - many folks use vernacular and call similar tools by different names. Your advice about the size of the dome is great. I know I need to tweak this tool and my technique for these button head rivets. I will try what you say and maybe post the result in a future video. Thanks for sharing.
I like this series on rivets. Looks like you keep on giving me plenty of projects to do! I like that!
Thanks again for my Bent Knee Tongs I purchased to work on railroad spikes! They're working great!
Mark, I'm very glad the tongs suit you thus far. This button rivet header needs some tweaking as well as my technique - something for a future video. I have a couple of railroad spikes that I may use for a future project too.Thanks.
ive been thinking i need to start making my own rivets, i like the versatility
I used to buy all my rivets but good quality rivets became harder to find. Also, like you mention, you can tailor homemade rivets to suit you need. Thanks.
Hey Glen, friend this video is darn good! I really like your style of tools. I'm becoming a better blacksmith watching you. So, keep doing you my friend.
Brady, I'm very pleased to know you might learn something by watching my videos (maybe learn how not to do things!). I'll keep doing my best. Thanks.
Nice job Glen
Thanks Dave. Stay tuned for more...
Nice work, glen. That is definitely a tool I need to make for myself. Thanks for sharing what you know.
Christopher, Glad you like this. But this tool and my technique needs some tweaking. One commenter gave good advice about the diameter of the dome needing to be double the diameter of the stock in order to create a proper button head. I will make some adjustments and see what happens. Anyway, making your own rivets can add versatility... Thanks.
Glen, I read that comment also. I watch Daniels channel too, he's a talented smith. I understand things could always use a little tweaking here and there, it's your ideas and methods that I appreciate. I'm not skilled enough to copy what you do, but similar, I can handle that. Thanks again
Love your vids glen. Keep up the good work
I'll do my best. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Good stuff as usual. Keep up the good work. Always look forward to the next video.
The making of this tool went better than the making of the actual rivets. I need to adjust my technique some for these button head style rivets. Thanks.
Hey Glen. I'm from rancagua, Chile. Sud América. Congratulations, I like your style, good ideas for the blacksmith. Sorry, my inglés is so, so.
Glen, observing how things moved, it seems to me that a greater shoulder would be produced by giving it a couple of good whollops with the hammer to set the shoulder, then quickly switching to the rounding header tool. I think that due to the concavity exerting more pressure (impact) on the edges of the rivet, it tends to bow (doughnut) the steel out, rather than the flat hammer driving it straight down onto the shoulder. Great video and great exercise/project!
Yes, on my last try in this video, I did exactly that and found that may produce a better result. But I need to tweak this tool some, in addition to my technique, for making these style rivets better. Thanks.
Awesome Job Glenn!
William, This tool basically works but I need to adjust my technique some to get better results. Thanks.
Hey Glen, great video as usual. The tools and hammers I’ve bought from you over the years are still my favorites.
One idea I would like to share with you is maybe to take the handle of the rivet holder and bend it down to drop into your hardy hole. Or twist the end around a piece of square stock that can drop in,So you don’t have to manage two handled tools at the same time.
Great videos as always, brother. Thanks for taking the time to share.
-Rich
Dire Wolf Forge
another great video glen!I like your style.some people just peen the head over with a hammer but youve made your own tool for this specific purpose.very cool.
Jered, The concept for this tool make sense but I need to adjust the design some and improve my technique to get better results. Thanks.
I just love your tooling. I started building my order for tools from you but the price tag got too high as my greed took over. I'm in the process of whittling it down to acceptable levels....
Lou, Take your time. I'm so busy with various things right now, I don't know if I'm coming or going anymore. I appreciate your support.
1.5x width for each head so 10mm you want the head to be 15mm tends to work
Love your videos's, good discriptions, good camera work and no messing around. Love your attention to detail. If you can't make your very own specific tools, how will you make any projects come to live. What size round stock do you use for your handles?
Jeff, I'm very glad you enjoy my videos. I honestly need to improve the quality; video and audio as well as content but I guess one step at a time... I normally use 8mm round for my handles. Thanks for watching and for your support. Glen
Any advise on how to heat up a small rivet in a home made forge? Meaning how do i not lose the little rivet in the forge? If it makes it tp the bottom it could actually fall through to the bottom of my clean out pipe.
I see a lot of smiths just not cut the rivet quite all the way off. This lets them use the rest of the stock as a handle, and when they put it in the heading tool, they just snap off that tiny bit of material that's holding the rivet to the rest of the round stock.
Hi Glen nice video dude. Im sure this will be taken the wrong way but hell I'm going to say it any way. First thing is the name of the tool is a rivet snap. Just cause someone started calling it a header at some point doesn't make it the right name its a snap.
Secondly as for the rule for the height or "guide lines as you called them" the head sizes have the same rule. The diameter of the dome should be at lest 1 times the diameter of the starting stock. So a 8mm bar would take a 16mm snap. yours looks way to small hence no shoulder. I'm sure you will take this as a dig but that's how I see it. Nice connection to the tool i have used and seen lots of tools held this way.
Daniel, No offense taken at all. It's good to learn something new. I think the name is neither here nor there - many folks use vernacular and call similar tools by different names. Your advice about the size of the dome is great. I know I need to tweak this tool and my technique for these button head rivets. I will try what you say and maybe post the result in a future video. Thanks for sharing.
Gteat video Glen as always Martin M&S Blades
Martin, With projects like this, I'm never completely sure of the result. I need to tweak this design and my technique some. Thanks.
Any relation to Glen beck?
Tony, No relation, I hope... Thanks for watching.
Very nice idea.
Jim, This idea is good and it works but the dimensions of recess need to be adjusted... Thanks.
😊👍👍
Mark, Thanks so much.
Very well