September 22, 2020 Thank you very much for making this video. It worked perfect on my 2001 Highlander with 197,000 miles. Almost all parts came from Wally World, including 2 new sensors for $20, leaving me a spare, and the wire harness also for about $20. I used a nut to mount the sensor on a mending plate and a bolt to mount the mending plate to an existing engine bracket hole, so I made no permanent changes to the vehicle whatsoever. This saved me more than a thousand dollars.
@@JDMHaze I have had 3 knock sensor codes since the fix. All were on super soaked rainy days. OBD quick delete and gone again for months. Plenty good enough.
This video did the best job of showing where the sensor harness is located. I'm planning on doing this as well. It would be nice to merge on the highway without worrying about getting hit.
Veronica Bellerose Thank you, it is easier to find the knock sensor harness on this vehicle than most of the cars with this engine probably due to the fact there is more room in the engine bay. I thought I would have to hunt for it but it was pretty simple... After you remove the airbox you literally just reach down I could probably find it with my eyes closed...
TY for the help. Them 1-1/16. Means its a 1 inch + 1/16 of any inch size. AKA Inch and sixteenths size. But dude...thank you soooo much. I just got a RX 300 for a grand because of this problem!!!!!! Now I can fix it and have a nice SUV
It worked!! It really really work. I've been driving it for doordash for a month. Only problem is some shot two bullets into it with me in it. So windshield smashed up now
The problem with doing this modification is that the externally mounted knock sensor will not detect detonation inside the engine. The knock sensors are located on the cylinder heads so that when detonation occurs inside the cylinders the engine computer can back off the ignition timing to eliminate the detonation. This is necessary to protect the engine from internal damage as well as to get the best performance, fuel economy and emissions. Doing this modification might seem to be a great easy cheep fix without any downsides and it may work well for some period of time but remember that the engineers who designed the engine put those knock sensors where they did for a reason. If you don't know all the factors that went into the engineers' decision to locate the two sensors where they did then you may be taking unknown risks. There could be undetected detonation going on inside the engine that is slowly hammering away at the pistons and cylinder heads, which could lead to premature engine failure. This is why you should never modify anything in a complex, modern engine. Instead leave it the way the manufacturer designed and built it.
it's very common for the sensors to fail, so the manufacturer didn't make it too well, ... I actually bought Denso knock sensors and got them replaced at the dealership and they failed months later And this has happened to others and apparently there's a newer version of the knocks sensor that works better, However I am making a newer update video and I will include some of what you mentioned to further elaborate
@@JDMHaze That's another thing. Many people have problems using aftermarket sensors and wiring harnesses on these engines. You need to use OEM Toyota parts. You can get them on eBay for a reasonable price. I bought 2 OEM sensors and the OEM harness on eBay this morning for $63.45. You need to be sure they are in the original sealed bags to be sure someone didn't remove the OEM parts from the bag and stick aftermarket or counterfeit parts in the bag.
UtahSleeper didn't want any surprises, the less errors along the way the easier it is to troubleshoot I'm not used Sensors that are grounded to the body without wiring so I made sure to test the ground of the sensor To make sure my hole was a good ground location lol.. So that if I came along any issues I would know for a FACT it had something to do with my wire splicing rather than the ground, But I'm pretty good with splicing as well so that wasn't a concern really lol Just covering my bases ,
IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IF YOU DO THIS TRICK YOU HAVE TO HAVE GROUND AND IT HAS TO BE A OEM SENSOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I tried 3 different sensors and upon research Toyota OEM sensors operate at a different frequency than aftermarket sensors so they will instantly throw a code! IT HAS TO BE OEM!!!
correct , and surprisingly a few people used aftermarket and didn’t have an issue, some said they lasted some months so that may vary, but yes, you definitely should get the Denso
If you can, please respond. So I bought this highlander and the light is on with codes P0235, P0330 so I did the hack, I spliced the cable into one and made it long to the connector. I bought a import direct Knock sensor which was $80 and I mounted it to the motor mount without drilling, I used a nut and washer since there was already a hole. I ran a ground wire to it and it has ground but alas the code comes right back? What am I doing wrong? This is so frustrating, so I really need an OEM sensor so the light won’t trip? I also made sure the harness to the ecu pins has continuity.
I had the code come back months later before and then I got another knock sensor on eBay. It was a dancer or knock sensor, and I use the part number, and I haven’t had the issue since and it’s been at least two years.
thanks i hope it helped!😊 you can also see my description for shortcuts and utahsleeper did a similar video for same motor but i believe it was an avalon
I was so happy to try this and did but it did NOT work.Reset computer 3 times engine nocking and pining also check engine light back on within minutes.
if your engine is knocking, then that needs to be fixed, this video is for folks whose engine is fine but the sensor FAILED (which is common) these sensors DETECT engine knock, not repair it. so if you’re using the recommended fuel and having issues there is another issue you need a mechanic or shops to diagnose/fix
So basically u cut the harness that you found under the air box then extended it with more wire and connected the harness at the end of the new wire connected to the original harness
@@JDMHaze thank you for replying, also is it necessary to to extend the wire to the other side of the engine like Is there a purpose for that and if it’s not necessary will it still work if I connect a new harness but instead of cutting and making the wire longer I find a secure place near where the harness was found to put the knock sensor
@@reinnamatthews5825 I only ran the wire to where the new harness location was, the length of the wire isn't so much significant, it's just I needed that much wire for that location I've seen people use different locations but since that is right next to where the motor mount is it's just a solid location, but make sure you see my section on ground testing (1:52), to make sure the location you choose has a secure ground and is rigid/solid With the least vibration
@@JDMHaze got it so basically that was the more important reasoning for putting the sensor where u did because it needs to be grounded where ever I decide to place it I can’t just connect it and leave it laying somewhere lol, thanks but I didn’t see in the video what u did with the old harness connection did u end up closing it off with electrical tape
@@reinnamatthews5825 So the old harness connector I just unplugged it and then plugged in a new one and rerouted it ... And I just taped off the old connector harness that was going to the original knock sensors
I tried the bypass on the ecm side since it was only marking p0325. After I did it at the ecm it came up with both p0325 and p0330. I tried the bypass you did but it still came up the same so I thought it was the bypass I did at the ecm. I put those wires back the way they were but to no avail. I still get both knock sensors coming back. When I was splicing the wires for the harness, outside of the white wire it had a layer of wires too. Would those need to be spliced together with the white wire or would those be left out? Any insight would help. I’m going to test the wires from the sensor connection to the ecm to see if I have continuity. I tried putting one of the original old sensors back on but still get the same codes. Any help would be great. Thank you.
That wire outside of it doesn't need to be splice, just the white wires however I would put some tape or heat shrink to cover those wires, also did you disconnect your battery after you did the sensor hack?
@@JDMHaze okay sounds good I didn’t think I needed it so I cut off the excess and used a butt connector to join the wires. The butt connector shrinks when you heat it up. No I didn’t. I have a scanner that resets the codes. Would I need to disconnect them still?
@@PSALM-144-1 you can also see my description I have a link to a video from "Utah Sleeper" He does essentially the same thing with the same engine but just in a Toyota Avalon He explains that shielding wire a little bit skip to 4:26 ruclips.net/video/AehVCIebHas/видео.html
Hi! It's me again. Anyway just saying hey, and my harness went bad. Replaced it with your mountings still, and everything is peachy! FUCKING peachy! You should run for President!
I've not used a tap before, so guessing that's why I'm not understanding how you ruined your first hole. Is the tap tapered, so if you go too deep you've made the hole too large? Not sure what you meant by out of balance.
I ruined my first hole because I drilled too close to the corner and did not give me enough clearance for the wide base of the knocks sensor to turn, so I had to move it over to where it could turn freely so I could screw it into place which required another hole 🕳
Great video!!! I have a chance to buy a RX300 with this problem but was ready to avoid it until I saw your vid, did you have a no 4th gear issue due to the bad knock sensor?
Yes also known as the "Limp Mode" and it was annoying and hell, because I work as a technician and use that vehicle for work so it was burning excessive amounts of gas... This fixed the problem
I was thinking about buying one of these. I currently have an 06 scion xB. Gas mileage is great. 26-33 mpg. It's just that it's very slow this having a 1.5 108 hp engine
Did u use any rosin core solder before you heat shrank the spliced wire or is it not necessary, also what kind of extended wire or gauge wire did you use
I may have soldered it but only where I spliced them together, but it's not necessary as long as you heat shrink it and twist it very tight and pull it to test it, and it was 16 to 18 gauge wire...
@@JDMHaze You are correct...This will be the third time I have replaced them...I found out the first time...the hard way...but I have had several OEM Toyota sensors also fail...SO FRUSTRATING!!!! Thanks!
Chris Atkinson maybe if you have the right size nut, but I believe you still need the threads to touch the inside of the bare metal, to make a proper ground. , Because on the outside surface it's actually painted black, so you're not actually making a solid connection but the threads are touching the inside which is the silver bear metal which makes the proper connection. so just make sure you test the ground(as shown 1:52 if you do it that way
@@JDMHaze thats why you grind the paint away from the drill location. Drilling the hole slightly larger to fit through but snug it down with the nut and boom perfect ground.
Chris Atkinson Either or but for the people who are less handy I figured my way was a little easier, but since you understand to do that yes that could work, lol
It lasted me a few months but I had some other issue going on, so it would've occasionally came back, and I would just reset it...And it wouldn't happen again for a long time, others have had better luck, with going a longer time periods
Looks like it’s been a year since you posted this video. How is it holding up? Any issues or check engine lights? I’m considering doing this on my RX300. Thanks for posting the video!!
I will be making a second part to this video, I didn't really have too many issues but I made a modified harness that rerouted the power to the original knocks sensor on the car that was still good
@@mikeingraham611 dude what? lol No there are only 2 knock sensors, but knock sensor 1 was the reading bad, there is a wire going to each knock sensor, I splice the one wire going to knock sensor 1 cut it and spliced it into the wire that was going to knock sensor 2,, So the computer is only reading knock sensor 2 (the good 1) But the computer thinks it's reading both knock sensors
Hey bro i have a question. So im having a hard time figuring out whats wrong with my rx it feels like I don’t have an overdrive cause my rpm is about 3500 to 4k in 60mph. Do you think its the knock sensor? And I Don’t have chevk engine light. But there was a code from the antena.
That sounds like a limp mode, did you try pushing the overdrive button and turning it on/off to make sure it's not the bulb in the dash being out? Well you're describing seems like a limp mode how long has it been doing it? Because sometimes the check engine light doesn't come on immediately after going into limp mode And it doesn't always happen, depending on how long the drive is and how long the car was off before you started it
@@luckyboi1196 same situation happened when i bought mine lol. in addition to a maf sensor and changing pcv valve lol this was a temporary fix (the original knock sensor harnesses go bad) It's a common issue with Toyota products at this time, so the Avalon, Camry, ES300s and some of the siennas Have this problem
What the hell am I watching here? lol Anyway, if any of you have one of these old dinosaurs, it would probably behoove you to just take everything apart to get to the existing knock sensors, change your rear plugs, rear valve cover gasket (Remove and repack the half moons) because it's probably leaking, bypass hose because it will leak and reseal the valley plate because it will probably be leaking a bit too.
@@joelfierro8193 welding it is extreme, because then replacing it would be a nightmare,, I just chose that location because it's pretty much by the motor mount which is supposed to be the most solid part, which is great because the knocks sensor needs to be a stable and still as possible
I did the same and my knock sensor code still came back I think the wire spice needs to be explained more because I did exactly like the video and still get a knock sensor after buying 4 sensors and 2 harnesses I truly think this car is going to the crusher
I think it depends on the knock sensor you get I got some of the newer ones it’s the same knock sensor, but they’re more round instead of as sharp on the corner
DutyTime22 Link is in the description and it's about $25(or less) online and currently $20 on this link here. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302389998819
Yes i did ! it would not go into overdrive and would stay in high rpm also known as (limp mode). Replacing the knock sensor remove the trouble code and fixes that problem.
@@JDMHaze The problem is you didn't fix the problem the right way. Do you know why the transmission won't go into overdrive when the knock sensors fail? It's because without the sensors working the engine could experience undetected detonation (knock) that can damage the engine. This will occur if the engine is under a high torque load, which happens in overdrive. Also, when the sensors fail and the codes come up the computer intentionally retards the timing to prevent detonation. Essentially what you are doing is overriding that safeguard by telling the computer there is no detonation when maybe there is. I put a comment on this thread explaining all this that you need to read. My concern is that you are telling people to do something that might potentially damage their engines.
@@joevignolor4u949 I understand why it does this but the information is overwhelming these knock sensors have a significantly high failure rate which is why I made this video. And it is a common issue with these vehicles more often than not it's the sensor themselves
@@JDMHaze None of that matters. You are advocating a band aid work around that runs the risk of doing major engine damage. The only proper way to fix this problem is to remove the plenum and intake manifold and to replace the sensors and the wiring harness. That will allow the computer to receive the proper inputs from the sensors that will tell it what the current situation is inside the cylinders with regards to engine knocking so it can properly determine the correct ignition timing. That's why the engineers put the sensors where they did and they need to be there.
Lol. Screw those stupid sensors. Engine is fine if you take care of it, and those old Toys aren’t worth the cost or time of doing the whole intake tear apart. Great video.
The problem with doing this modification is that the externally mounted knock sensor will not detect detonation inside the engine. The knock sensors are located on the cylinder heads so that when detonation occurs inside the cylinders the engine computer can back off the ignition timing to eliminate the detonation. This is necessary to protect the engine from internal damage as well as to get the best performance, fuel economy and emissions. Doing this modification might seem to be a great easy cheep fix without any downsides and it may work well for some period of time but remember that the engineers who designed the engine put those knock sensors where they did for a reason. If you don't know all the factors that went into the engineers' decision to locate the two sensors where they did then you may be taking unknown risks. There could be undetected detonation going on inside the engine that is slowly hammering away at the pistons and cylinder heads, which could lead to premature engine failure. This is why you should never modify anything in a complex, modern engine. Instead leave it the way the manufacturer designed and built it.
@@joevignolor4u949 do you live in the real world? There are cars that aren't worth the money it would take to scrap them, yet they are useful for moving from point a to b. That's what this mod is for. It would be the world's dumbest decision to pour thousands of dollars of labor and parts into a car you would be at zero financial loss to scrap out. I have a fleet of vehicles 15 plus years old with over 300k mi on them - if I can get another year out of one by a cheap mod I absolutely will.
@@ddmercantile The problem with your thinking is what if someone has one that only has 150,000 miles on it (not 300,000) and they do the modification instead of replacing the sensors and the wiring harness. If the engine gets damaged at 155,000 miles then it cost the owner 145,000 miles of additional use of the vehicle. The problem with the video is that it doesn't contain a disclaimer warning people about the possible downside of doing the modification. It just paints a rosy picture of something wonderful that everyone with a sensor issue should do.
@@JDMHaze I got it done, ended up re-threading the threads on the knock sensor for a 7/16-20 and it worked wonders. I used a 7/16 drill bit. No more CEL.
If your going to splice them together to use only one sensor its much easier to splice the wires together under the dash. Unfortunately for me, I think both have gone bad now lol.
I tried to splice at the most external part so that I can reverse the process and undo it, this is meant to be temporary, are you referring to the wires coming from the ECU/ECM?
@@JDMHaze yes i am. It worked for over 2 yrs but i think both sensors are bad now because my car is having trouble going into overdrive again. Was rethinking it and might have to do this since I think both are bad now. Did you use an oem knock sensor?
@@JohnLee-oo3qy yes oem i purchased online, And both of them are likely bad I'm pretty sure which is another reason this is temporary because the other one subsequently fails, it's demise is inevitable
@@JohnLee-oo3qy I go on eBay but I search for genuine oem knock sensors www.ebay.com/itm/New-2-Pcs-Knock-Sensor-Set-89615-12050-For-Toyota-Camry-2-4L-Lexus-RX330-3-3L-/223938880514?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I would not and did not take shortcuts. By replacing the knock sensors correctly. Gives you the opportunity to replace gaskets replace the coolant hose underneath the manifold.. That was actually starting to leak.
@@NoFilter93 No problem, the strut mounts are cheap AF, just Change those first orrrr You could just get the wire going to the bad knock sensor and splice it into The wire that is feeding the good sensor 🤷🏽♂️ then the computer thinks it's reading both sensors but it's only reading one
yeap!!!! They charge like 300+ for the knocks sensor each and there's only one wiring harness for the knocks sensor so I'm surprised they're talking about 2 lol And the labor I guess is probably around 140 per hour or something
@@JDMHaze Good catch. Anyway as the guy in the other video you posted a link to said, this workaround doesn't fix the cause of the problem. I guess that means the check engine light will now be off, but the engine timing will be a bit off so it won't pass the smog check.
Because I am not a mechanic by any stretch, and can't do that labor myself, it is at least four hours of labor on the books which would be very expensive, this is just a nice bypass there's nothing wrong with the engine but the knock sensors tend to go bad, and sometimes it's the harness as well that goes bad on these
This will fuck up the engine you are better of without overdrive than doing this lazy shit lol. Just unbolt the plenum bracket bolt from under the car from the passenger side then the plenum will come off easy.
@@JDMHaze you made the video right? I just told y’all how to properly get to the knock sensors it’s one bolt under the passenger side of the car then the plenum comes out EASY!
i did lol, And if you feel like I didn't you can go to the description I actually have a shortcut to skip to the part you want to see to make it easier.. It's basically an index or table of contents
Attention: There are Timestamps in the description So you can skip to whatever stage of the video you want to see... comment>like>subscribe🙏🏽😊
from the time you did this is the hack still holding up
Daymon Crabb yes I had the lights come on once but that was due to a different issue and it hasnt happened since
@@JDMHaze no shit bout to do this on my 1mzfe in 2003 sienna
Daymon Crabb Just make sure the knocks sensor is actually the same part,
Does it matter how much you torque down the new sensor? What should I take it to?
September 22, 2020
Thank you very much for making this video. It worked perfect on my 2001 Highlander with 197,000 miles. Almost all parts came from Wally World, including 2 new sensors for $20, leaving me a spare, and the wire harness also for about $20. I used a nut to mount the sensor on a mending plate and a bolt to mount the mending plate to an existing engine bracket hole, so I made no permanent changes to the vehicle whatsoever. This saved me more than a thousand dollars.
Kevin Lewis I'm very happy for you, what size nut did you use if you know the specs still
@@JDMHaze The package reads Hillman, Hex Nuts, Metric Fine Pitch, M12-1.25
I just opened drawers at Lowes with sensor in hand until I found it.
@@kevinlewis5164 i'm actually surprised a Walmart or non-OEM knock sensor held up
@@JDMHaze I have had 3 knock sensor codes since the fix. All were on super soaked rainy days. OBD quick delete and gone again for months. Plenty good enough.
@@kevinlewis5164 fair enough lol
This video did the best job of showing where the sensor harness is located. I'm planning on doing this as well. It would be nice to merge on the highway without worrying about getting hit.
Veronica Bellerose Thank you, it is easier to find the knock sensor harness on this vehicle than most of the cars with this engine probably due to the fact there is more room in the engine bay. I thought I would have to hunt for it but it was pretty simple... After you remove the airbox you literally just reach down I could probably find it with my eyes closed...
What gauge wire did you use?
Veronica Bellerose about 12 gauge
TY for the help. Them 1-1/16. Means its a 1 inch + 1/16 of any inch size. AKA Inch and sixteenths size.
But dude...thank you soooo much. I just got a RX 300 for a grand because of this problem!!!!!! Now I can fix it and have a nice SUV
noted, Glad it helped, Talk about simplest form lol
It worked!! It really really work. I've been driving it for doordash for a month.
Only problem is some shot two bullets into it with me in it. So windshield smashed up now
The problem with doing this modification is that the externally mounted knock sensor will not detect detonation inside the engine. The knock sensors are located on the cylinder heads so that when detonation occurs inside the cylinders the engine computer can back off the ignition timing to eliminate the detonation. This is necessary to protect the engine from internal damage as well as to get the best performance, fuel economy and emissions. Doing this modification might seem to be a great easy cheep fix without any downsides and it may work well for some period of time but remember that the engineers who designed the engine put those knock sensors where they did for a reason. If you don't know all the factors that went into the engineers' decision to locate the two sensors where they did then you may be taking unknown risks. There could be undetected detonation going on inside the engine that is slowly hammering away at the pistons and cylinder heads, which could lead to premature engine failure. This is why you should never modify anything in a complex, modern engine. Instead leave it the way the manufacturer designed and built it.
it's very common for the sensors to fail, so the manufacturer didn't make it too well, ... I actually bought Denso knock sensors and got them replaced at the dealership and they failed months later And this has happened to others and apparently there's a newer version of the knocks sensor that works better, However I am making a newer update video and I will include some of what you mentioned to further elaborate
@@JDMHaze That's another thing. Many people have problems using aftermarket sensors and wiring harnesses on these engines. You need to use OEM Toyota parts. You can get them on eBay for a reasonable price. I bought 2 OEM sensors and the OEM harness on eBay this morning for $63.45. You need to be sure they are in the original sealed bags to be sure someone didn't remove the OEM parts from the bag and stick aftermarket or counterfeit parts in the bag.
@@joevignolor4u949how did you find them so cheap?
100 percent. If you bought the new harness why would you cut anything? The car needs both knock sensors and you'll find out eventually.
Thanks! Glad you were able to fix your knock issue also. And good coverage on verifying its grounded.
UtahSleeper didn't want any surprises, the less errors along the way the easier it is to troubleshoot I'm not used Sensors that are grounded to the body without wiring so I made sure to test the ground of the sensor To make sure my hole was a good ground location lol.. So that if I came along any issues I would know for a FACT it had something to do with my wire splicing rather than the ground, But I'm pretty good with splicing as well so that wasn't a concern really lol Just covering my bases ,
Is there a reason you need to put the mount all the way over on the other side? Is there no place to mount it closer to the plug in?
@@ddmercantile it's the easiest and softest material to manipulate. Plus it's a mount that is rarely replaced and is thick.
@@UtahSleeper Ok, I'll have to try this! No sense in breaking open an otherwise great engine.
Nice. I might try this method instead of the other one where I have to tap new threads in aluminum.
It's certainly worth a try
How do i fix the 1st and 2nd gear shifting hard after doing this?
IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!! IMPORTANT!!!!
IF YOU DO THIS TRICK YOU HAVE TO HAVE GROUND AND IT HAS TO BE A OEM SENSOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I tried 3 different sensors and upon research Toyota OEM sensors operate at a different frequency than aftermarket sensors so they will instantly throw a code! IT HAS TO BE OEM!!!
correct , and surprisingly a few people used aftermarket and didn’t have an issue, some said they lasted some months so that may vary, but yes, you definitely should get the Denso
If you can, please respond. So I bought this highlander and the light is on with codes P0235, P0330 so I did the hack, I spliced the cable into one and made it long to the connector. I bought a import direct Knock sensor which was $80 and I mounted it to the motor mount without drilling, I used a nut and washer since there was already a hole. I ran a ground wire to it and it has ground but alas the code comes right back? What am I doing wrong? This is so frustrating, so I really need an OEM sensor so the light won’t trip? I also made sure the harness to the ecu pins has continuity.
I had the code come back months later before and then I got another knock sensor on eBay. It was a dancer or knock sensor, and I use the part number, and I haven’t had the issue since and it’s been at least two years.
@@JDMHaze so it has to be OEM for the code not to come back basically?
@@sonicisdog normally yes,, Some people have said they got aftermarket ones and they lasted a decent amount of time,,
Awesome video bro !
thanks i hope it helped!😊 you can also see my description for shortcuts and utahsleeper did a similar video for same motor but i believe it was an avalon
I was so happy to try this and did but it did NOT work.Reset computer 3 times engine nocking and pining also check engine light back on within minutes.
if your engine is knocking, then that needs to be fixed, this video is for folks whose engine is fine but the sensor FAILED (which is common) these sensors DETECT engine knock, not repair it. so if you’re using the recommended fuel and having issues there is another issue you need a mechanic or shops to diagnose/fix
Love your videos man thank you
thank you for watching
So basically u cut the harness that you found under the air box then extended it with more wire and connected the harness at the end of the new wire connected to the original harness
Close, basically I disconnected the old harness and plugged in a new harness and rerouted the wire and extended it to a different location.
@@JDMHaze thank you for replying, also is it necessary to to extend the wire to the other side of the engine like Is there a purpose for that and if it’s not necessary will it still work if I connect a new harness but instead of cutting and making the wire longer I find a secure place near where the harness was found to put the knock sensor
@@reinnamatthews5825 I only ran the wire to where the new harness location was, the length of the wire isn't so much significant, it's just I needed that much wire for that location I've seen people use different locations but since that is right next to where the motor mount is it's just a solid location, but make sure you see my section on ground testing (1:52), to make sure the location you choose has a secure ground and is rigid/solid With the least vibration
@@JDMHaze got it so basically that was the more important reasoning for putting the sensor where u did because it needs to be grounded where ever I decide to place it I can’t just connect it and leave it laying somewhere lol, thanks but I didn’t see in the video what u did with the old harness connection did u end up closing it off with electrical tape
@@reinnamatthews5825 So the old harness connector I just unplugged it and then plugged in a new one and rerouted it ... And I just taped off the old connector harness that was going to the original knock sensors
I tried the bypass on the ecm side since it was only marking p0325. After I did it at the ecm it came up with both p0325 and p0330. I tried the bypass you did but it still came up the same so I thought it was the bypass I did at the ecm. I put those wires back the way they were but to no avail. I still get both knock sensors coming back. When I was splicing the wires for the harness, outside of the white wire it had a layer of wires too. Would those need to be spliced together with the white wire or would those be left out? Any insight would help. I’m going to test the wires from the sensor connection to the ecm to see if I have continuity. I tried putting one of the original old sensors back on but still get the same codes. Any help would be great. Thank you.
That wire outside of it doesn't need to be splice, just the white wires however I would put some tape or heat shrink to cover those wires, also did you disconnect your battery after you did the sensor hack?
@@JDMHaze okay sounds good I didn’t think I needed it so I cut off the excess and used a butt connector to join the wires. The butt connector shrinks when you heat it up. No I didn’t. I have a scanner that resets the codes. Would I need to disconnect them still?
@@PSALM-144-1 The battery disconnect helps
@@JDMHaze I’ll give that a try then. I appreciate you replying back. Thank you!
@@PSALM-144-1 you can also see my description I have a link to a video from "Utah Sleeper" He does essentially the same thing with the same engine but just in a Toyota Avalon He explains that shielding wire a little bit
skip to 4:26
ruclips.net/video/AehVCIebHas/видео.html
Hi! It's me again. Anyway just saying hey, and my harness went bad. Replaced it with your mountings still, and everything is peachy! FUCKING peachy! You should run for President!
Thank you I just glad I could help that was the whole purpose of the video because I had the same issue and it was killing me inside.
I've not used a tap before, so guessing that's why I'm not understanding how you ruined your first hole. Is the tap tapered, so if you go too deep you've made the hole too large? Not sure what you meant by out of balance.
I ruined my first hole because I drilled too close to the corner and did not give me enough clearance for the wide base of the knocks sensor to turn, so I had to move it over to where it could turn freely so I could screw it into place which required another hole 🕳
Great video!!! I have a chance to buy a RX300 with this problem but was ready to avoid it until I saw your vid, did you have a no 4th gear issue due to the bad knock sensor?
Yes also known as the "Limp Mode" and it was annoying and hell, because I work as a technician and use that vehicle for work so it was burning excessive amounts of gas... This fixed the problem
I was thinking about buying one of these. I currently have an 06 scion xB. Gas mileage is great. 26-33 mpg. It's just that it's very slow this having a 1.5 108 hp engine
Did u use any rosin core solder before you heat shrank the spliced wire or is it not necessary, also what kind of extended wire or gauge wire did you use
I may have soldered it but only where I spliced them together, but it's not necessary as long as you heat shrink it and twist it very tight and pull it to test it, and it was 16 to 18 gauge wire...
@@JDMHaze a spool or bonded wire cuz I see certain ones that are either 16 or 18 gauge and the one that is both says bonded
@@JDMHaze I follow requested u on Instagram
@@reinnamatthews5825 i accepted
Thank you!!!!!!!
Please use OEM knock sensors
@@JDMHaze You are correct...This will be the third time I have replaced them...I found out the first time...the hard way...but I have had several OEM Toyota sensors also fail...SO FRUSTRATING!!!! Thanks!
@@Q1776Q I had a pair found by my second pair didn’t fail
Couldn't you just use a nut under the mount location vs tapping the hole to thread it?
Chris Atkinson maybe if you have the right size nut, but I believe you still need the threads to touch the inside of the bare metal, to make a proper ground. , Because on the outside surface it's actually painted black, so you're not actually making a solid connection but the threads are touching the inside which is the silver bear metal which makes the proper connection. so just make sure you test the ground(as shown 1:52 if you do it that way
@@JDMHaze thats why you grind the paint away from the drill location. Drilling the hole slightly larger to fit through but snug it down with the nut and boom perfect ground.
Chris Atkinson Either or but for the people who are less handy I figured my way was a little easier, but since you understand to do that yes that could work, lol
Hey keye how do you make it long enough to reach the other side of the engine?
splice more wire
Why did u only use one of the sensor?
because i spliced the wire going to both sensors into one wire and only required one so the extra work of mounting 2 sensors wasn't necessary
Great video man thanks. How long have you had it like this and does still work ?
It lasted me a few months but I had some other issue going on, so it would've occasionally came back, and I would just reset it...And it wouldn't happen again for a long time, others have had better luck, with going a longer time periods
Thanks for this. Do you know what size thread /tap the knock sensors fit?
1/4 - 18NPT. It comes with a drillbit and the threading bit
Looks like it’s been a year since you posted this video. How is it holding up? Any issues or check engine lights? I’m considering doing this on my RX300. Thanks for posting the video!!
I will be making a second part to this video, I didn't really have too many issues but I made a modified harness that rerouted the power to the original knocks sensor on the car that was still good
@@JDMHaze - interesting. So the 3rd sensor stopped working and you spliced both wires to the one original sensor that wasn’t malfunctioning?
@@mikeingraham611 dude what? lol No there are only 2 knock sensors, but knock sensor 1 was the reading bad, there is a wire going to each knock sensor, I splice the one wire going to knock sensor 1 cut it and spliced it into the wire that was going to knock sensor 2,, So the computer is only reading knock sensor 2 (the good 1) But the computer thinks it's reading both knock sensors
Hey bro i have a question. So im having a hard time figuring out whats wrong with my rx it feels like I don’t have an overdrive cause my rpm is about 3500 to 4k in 60mph. Do you think its the knock sensor? And I Don’t have chevk engine light. But there was a code from the antena.
That sounds like a limp mode, did you try pushing the overdrive button and turning it on/off to make sure it's not the bulb in the dash being out? Well you're describing seems like a limp mode how long has it been doing it? Because sometimes the check engine light doesn't come on immediately after going into limp mode And it doesn't always happen, depending on how long the drive is and how long the car was off before you started it
Yes i did and the lights are working. And no luck still high rpm on high speeds
You’re right maybe it needs more miles cause i just bought it this month and just drove it today
And its a 99 rx300 only 140k miles maybe drive it more and wait for check engine light to turn on?
@@luckyboi1196 same situation happened when i bought mine lol. in addition to a maf sensor and changing pcv valve lol this was a temporary fix (the original knock sensor harnesses go bad) It's a common issue with Toyota products at this time, so the Avalon, Camry, ES300s and some of the siennas Have this problem
I got “Knock sensor 1 circuit bank 2 or single cylinder”. Is this what your video is about? Thanks.
whats the code? if its P0325 or P0330 then yes this is what im talking about
@@JDMHaze Thanks. it's P0330.
@@wanchiuwang4333 yep
What the hell am I watching here? lol
Anyway, if any of you have one of these old dinosaurs, it would probably behoove you to just take everything apart to get to the existing knock sensors, change your rear plugs, rear valve cover gasket (Remove and repack the half moons) because it's probably leaking, bypass hose because it will leak and reseal the valley plate because it will probably be leaking a bit too.
Do u technically not need to have them routed so far away if u don’t want to
That location just had the most space for what I was trying to do as far as mounting... And I knew I had a solid ground
Same question. Why to far? Couldn't you just take a metal bracket, make your tap for the sensor/sensors then just mount it or weld it to ground?
@@joelfierro8193 welding it is extreme, because then replacing it would be a nightmare,, I just chose that location because it's pretty much by the motor mount which is supposed to be the most solid part, which is great because the knocks sensor needs to be a stable and still as possible
I did the same and my knock sensor code still came back I think the wire spice needs to be explained more because I did exactly like the video and still get a knock sensor after buying 4 sensors and 2 harnesses I truly think this car is going to the crusher
I think it depends on the knock sensor you get I got some of the newer ones it’s the same knock sensor, but they’re more round instead of as sharp on the corner
How much does the knock sensor and harness cost I need 2 oem knock sensors
DutyTime22 Link is in the description and it's about $25(or less) online and currently $20 on this link here.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302389998819
Thanks for the quick response your the best Thank you so much
DutyTime22 no probem
Help please how do I make it long to reach where the knock sensor hole is ?
You simply splice it into a longer wire
How about shifting? Did you have any issue with overdrive not shifting? If you did, did this fix it?
Yes i did ! it would not go into overdrive and would stay in high rpm also known as (limp mode). Replacing the knock sensor remove the trouble code and fixes that problem.
@@JDMHaze Cool
@@JDMHaze The problem is you didn't fix the problem the right way. Do you know why the transmission won't go into overdrive when the knock sensors fail? It's because without the sensors working the engine could experience undetected detonation (knock) that can damage the engine. This will occur if the engine is under a high torque load, which happens in overdrive. Also, when the sensors fail and the codes come up the computer intentionally retards the timing to prevent detonation. Essentially what you are doing is overriding that safeguard by telling the computer there is no detonation when maybe there is. I put a comment on this thread explaining all this that you need to read. My concern is that you are telling people to do something that might potentially damage their engines.
@@joevignolor4u949 I understand why it does this but the information is overwhelming these knock sensors have a significantly high failure rate which is why I made this video. And it is a common issue with these vehicles more often than not it's the sensor themselves
@@JDMHaze None of that matters. You are advocating a band aid work around that runs the risk of doing major engine damage. The only proper way to fix this problem is to remove the plenum and intake manifold and to replace the sensors and the wiring harness. That will allow the computer to receive the proper inputs from the sensors that will tell it what the current situation is inside the cylinders with regards to engine knocking so it can properly determine the correct ignition timing. That's why the engineers put the sensors where they did and they need to be there.
1 dash 1 slash 16 🤣
Lol. Screw those stupid sensors. Engine is fine if you take care of it, and those old Toys aren’t worth the cost or time of doing the whole intake tear apart. Great video.
Yeah it's rather annoying I wish I could find a bypass kit it would've been a lot easier, they make some for GM and Nissans
The problem with doing this modification is that the externally mounted knock sensor will not detect detonation inside the engine. The knock sensors are located on the cylinder heads so that when detonation occurs inside the cylinders the engine computer can back off the ignition timing to eliminate the detonation. This is necessary to protect the engine from internal damage as well as to get the best performance, fuel economy and emissions. Doing this modification might seem to be a great easy cheep fix without any downsides and it may work well for some period of time but remember that the engineers who designed the engine put those knock sensors where they did for a reason. If you don't know all the factors that went into the engineers' decision to locate the two sensors where they did then you may be taking unknown risks. There could be undetected detonation going on inside the engine that is slowly hammering away at the pistons and cylinder heads, which could lead to premature engine failure. This is why you should never modify anything in a complex, modern engine. Instead leave it the way the manufacturer designed and built it.
@@joevignolor4u949 do you live in the real world? There are cars that aren't worth the money it would take to scrap them, yet they are useful for moving from point a to b. That's what this mod is for. It would be the world's dumbest decision to pour thousands of dollars of labor and parts into a car you would be at zero financial loss to scrap out. I have a fleet of vehicles 15 plus years old with over 300k mi on them - if I can get another year out of one by a cheap mod I absolutely will.
@@ddmercantile The problem with your thinking is what if someone has one that only has 150,000 miles on it (not 300,000) and they do the modification instead of replacing the sensors and the wiring harness. If the engine gets damaged at 155,000 miles then it cost the owner 145,000 miles of additional use of the vehicle. The problem with the video is that it doesn't contain a disclaimer warning people about the possible downside of doing the modification. It just paints a rosy picture of something wonderful that everyone with a sensor issue should do.
What size of drill bit did you use?
Jay B 1/4- 18NPT.
see 0:39
@@JDMHaze I got it done, ended up re-threading the threads on the knock sensor for a 7/16-20 and it worked wonders. I used a 7/16 drill bit. No more CEL.
Jay B Great, I'm glad it helped what vehicle do you have? Is it a RX 300 or another Toyota/Lexus vehicle with the m 1MZFE motor
@@JDMHaze it's a 2000 avalon
Jay B awesome,
Hey Haz need shielded that wire？
I hate shrunk the white wire if you're talking about the shielding outside of that I tried to cover as much of that as possible
😂😂😂great stuff
joseph chacon well its FREE 😀!!💁🏽♂️🆓
If your going to splice them together to use only one sensor its much easier to splice the wires together under the dash. Unfortunately for me, I think both have gone bad now lol.
I tried to splice at the most external part so that I can reverse the process and undo it, this is meant to be temporary, are you referring to the wires coming from the ECU/ECM?
@@JDMHaze yes i am. It worked for over 2 yrs but i think both sensors are bad now because my car is having trouble going into overdrive again. Was rethinking it and might have to do this since I think both are bad now. Did you use an oem knock sensor?
@@JohnLee-oo3qy yes oem i purchased online, And both of them are likely bad I'm pretty sure which is another reason this is temporary because the other one subsequently fails, it's demise is inevitable
@@JDMHaze any good place to buy the oem sensors brother? They just seem so expensive. Ebay looks cheap
@@JohnLee-oo3qy I go on eBay but I search for genuine oem knock sensors
www.ebay.com/itm/New-2-Pcs-Knock-Sensor-Set-89615-12050-For-Toyota-Camry-2-4L-Lexus-RX330-3-3L-/223938880514?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Where's the volume for this video?
What do you mean, If you have an iPhone it might be your phone, try turning off Bluetooth I've had a similar issue on RUclips with not hearing videos
U showed me how to find the ground.
glad i could help
Dude why didn’t you just get the timing belt and water pump done?
i am poor lol And honestly I may not be keeping this vehicle that long
Keye! You are FUCKING awesome! Don't let any sons a bitch tell ya otherwise! Thanks! Thanks! And one more thanks!
I would not and did not take shortcuts.
By replacing the knock sensors correctly.
Gives you the opportunity to replace gaskets replace the coolant hose underneath the manifold..
That was actually starting to leak.
correct! as well as the intake plenum gasket... this is mostly to buy time its not intended for eternity
Yoo i don't think I will work on my (2003 es300 1mzfe & my 1997 avalon 1mzfe) because both of the torque mounts out shot! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
You are absolutely correct I had the same issue before. lol no dice😂😂
@@JDMHaze 🤣🤣😅🤣 dead ass that's a no go for me but damn good idea! Thanks tho man! Great video!!
@@NoFilter93 No problem, the strut mounts are cheap AF, just Change those first orrrr You could just get the wire going to the bad knock sensor and splice it into The wire that is feeding the good sensor 🤷🏽♂️ then the computer thinks it's reading both sensors but it's only reading one
@keye haze bro I heard about that! Ok bet
@@JDMHaze do have a video on that....
Dealer cost to replace both 1MZ-FE knock sensors, both wiring harnesses and intake gasket on a V6 Camry: $2500!
yeap!!!! They charge like 300+ for the knocks sensor each and there's only one wiring harness for the knocks sensor so I'm surprised they're talking about 2 lol And the labor I guess is probably around 140 per hour or something
@@JDMHaze Good catch. Anyway as the guy in the other video you posted a link to said, this workaround doesn't fix the cause of the problem. I guess that means the check engine light will now be off, but the engine timing will be a bit off so it won't pass the smog check.
@@rkgsd Correct, this buys you time
Why not just replace them right way
Because I am not a mechanic by any stretch, and can't do that labor myself, it is at least four hours of labor on the books which would be very expensive, this is just a nice bypass there's nothing wrong with the engine but the knock sensors tend to go bad, and sometimes it's the harness as well that goes bad on these
@@JDMHaze you’re 100% right I was going to change mine I would have to remove million things so I just did your way works good thank you for video
@@nedoscarsandfishingvideos5500 Very glad I could help
This will fuck up the engine you are better of without overdrive than doing this lazy shit lol. Just unbolt the plenum bracket bolt from under the car from the passenger side then the plenum will come off easy.
thats would be if your knock sensor wasnt the issue…
@@JDMHaze you made the video right? I just told y’all how to properly get to the knock sensors it’s one bolt under the passenger side of the car then the plenum comes out EASY!
Get to the point damn
i did lol, And if you feel like I didn't you can go to the description I actually have a shortcut to skip to the part you want to see to make it easier.. It's basically an index or table of contents