HONDA VFR overheat issue / cooling fan override
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- My 5th gen Honda VFR Interceptor (1998-2001) has been overheating in city traffic on hot days- really annoying. So I tear into it to find out of it's a coolant issue or a thermoswitch / thermocouple issue. Sorry for repeating the info a few times of what goes where!
Previous owner had green coolant in it, so I'll put in the pricey Honda coolant for good measure. Either way I'm tired of the fan not coming on, so I'll put the fan on a toggle switch so I have control of it.
***HERE'S a link to blue Honda coolant- www.amazon.com...
advanceautopar...
Thank you brother. Looking at the wiring diagram, everything the thermo switch does in the VFRs is complete the circuit closing the negative /ground when certain temp is reached. So what I did is to connect (solder) a high quality 20 Amps switch with 14 awg wire to the two wires of the thermo switch. When the switch is in the close position, the fan is on, (like the thermo sensor at >= 220°) and if switch is off, the fan will start when receive the signal from the thermo sensor. This way, I used about a foot of wire and I worked only with negative polarity, no fuses and nothing to bring from the battery. I have seen many people using few different methods for motorcycles that use a simple thermo negative switch to activate the radiator fan. As an engineer I like to keep it simple. I've seen people using one or two relays when sometimes what you need is a quality switch and wires rated at the correct amperage and a little knowledge. Thanks again for showing this alternative way of doing it!
thanks for the reply & the info- there's more than one way to skin a cat :-)
That's a much better way to do it. No need at all to take cables back to the battery and if you do it that way there is no need for a fuse as it is shorted to ground when the fan is running.
Extra switches need to be run thru a relay, eliminates switch overheating & melting on high current circuits, it'll still work without, but it's always a fire risk without ... there's also another coolant drain bolt on the front of engine above header pipes, this is to fully drain the motor, just using water pump drain does not do a full drain, only use "Type 2" pre-mix (alloy engine spec coolant) ...hope this helps anyone thinking of flushing the coolant.
I appreciate this video man, mine was hitting 240-260 stuck in traffic, was going to hardwire the fan to a switch as well, you just made it a lot easier
Glad to help- thanks for watching!
My 3rd gen. 750 had a slightly loose ground wire .
It looked tight ,but it wasn’t.
An 1/8 turn on the bolt under the seat where a cluster of grounds were fixed the issue.
It never really was overheating.
Great video... Thanks.
thanks for watching!
Change all the usual culprits thermostat, temp sensor, switch .
But first of all check all grounds ,just went through a false hot temp reading due to slightly loose ground wires.
Disculpa como saber si mi bomba esta foncionando? Tengo un vfr800 año 93 pero me esta recalentando el envase burbujea y buta mucha agua
I would check hoses & hose connections, coolant levels & bleeding air out of the system. Have the bike running with the radiator cap off & let the system burp out the air bubbles. Then top it off with coolant & put cap back on.
What kind / color antifreeze are you using?
@@Smittyschannel use refrigerante naranja, ok muchas gracias al parecer tenía las mangueras de la bomba cambiadas la del radiador estaba en la parte de afuera y la del motor en la parte de adentro
@@DAVIDMARTINEZ-lz8fq I would highly recommend flushing it thoroughly like I do in this video, & using the blue asian / honda coolant. Walmart sells Peak asian blue coolant
@@Smittyschannel entendido muchas gracias
You don't need to refill with destilled water. Just refill with new pink G12++ coolant and the bike will be fine.
I had this done at a shop and now my bike has a very hard time cold starting. the FI blinks 7 times which is a code for the ECT sensor How do I fix that.
do you raise the idle / choke switch a little when starting?
I don’t understand what you’re hooking your ground up to I’ve done what you did in my fan will not turn on does that mean my fan motor is shot, burnt out?
the ground wire coming from the battery goes into the yellow wire nut shown at 7:49, where it joins 2 other wires- one going to the negative terminal on the toggle switch, & the other one mating with the wire that clips to the thermoswitch / thermocouple shown at 9:01 to 9:04.
Curious, how did it work in traffic when you switch the fan on. Can you keep the temp at or below 200F? Do you still have the stock fan that draws air in as opposed to the VTR fan blade that pushes air out past the rad?
In moving traffic on hot days it usually stays below 200. In stop & go it rarely ever gets past 205. Flushing & changing my coolant also played a sizeable part in these better cooling conditions
I still have the stock fan, but may look into something better
What is the jumper box???
Jumper box? please explain
@@Smittyschannel That is what I’m asking “what is a jumper box” you said that in the video you hook the ground up to the jumper box what is that? The jumper box?
@@markfarnsworth3306 I used a battery with wire probes to put 12v power to the terminals shown at 6:54 to figure out which of those 2 was positive & negative for that plugin
I’ve got another question if you don’t mind, why was the fan not coming on.. is the motor to your fan burnt out? Or a wiring harness shortage or something?
@@markfarnsworth3306 In my case the thermocouple turned out to be bad. I bypassed it to a switch rather than replacing with a new thermocouple. I still want to be able to turn the fan on whenever I need to.