I use 4 sealed, servo Martin Logan subs and my new processor has Dirac Live with full bass control. I got good bass response pretty much throughout the room
For two channel stereo, I always use toe in or out and play with the tilt to tracks with some midrange, kick drum and delay to finalize the testing. If your kick drum is off? The entire sound stage will be off. Many guys forget about kick drum. That's how we did it in the old days and it still works now. Graphs are great but in the end, you need to listen to get it right. That way a movie music soundtrack will be also be more accurate spread across the three channels. Once you do this, your movies will sound awesome...
To get that kick drum right is the real issue. olden days few hi fi systems came with those low vol, loudness onwith heart thumping Hi FI it was a delight to sit in a sofa and have a whiskey glass in your hand. Pure Country pub feel.
Good day Gene and than you for another appropriate and excellent video. The methods I used was: a) moving the speaker. I observed the difference between using the long and short walls, and the negative effects of having a half wall, like your experience. b) I have moved the furniture and this created a huge difference. The understanding I figured a few years ago is this: the further away, the better the response (this effects of harmonics and the creation of standing wave was explained in some your other videos) I also use android app, signal analyzer (using phone mic, I know this is not ideal as the frequency response of the mic is poor). This nevertheless gives me some idea of idea of what is happening from a frequency/spl perspective at different places in the room. I do intend to get a proper mic like the Dayton that you described.
I had been thinking to try and get my living room 2-channel set up to just 2 full range speakers and eliminate the couple of subs I already have in there, but I think per #5 I'm going to just accept and stick with having the subs. I think it'll positively impact the overall audio use of the room. It is probably worth keeping them and little extra complexity they bring to the setup.
once you are habitual of sub then no point in going for two speakers. But the original HI Fi sound is in those two speakers, like three way one 10" sub one mid 4'5" one silk dome tweeter its something vintage style fully sealed. you get the pure sound. then you have so many designs with bass reflex models etc they sound colored like artificially boosted bass and treble. again if you are lover of thumping bass then separate sub is the best
Had 2x SVS sb1000 pro then 2x micro 3000 which didn’t go as low but had bigger punch and cleaner response now changed to single KEF kf92 and it absolutely destroys previous ones. Much tighter much more powerful, night and day difference I never knew was possible. Movies have got this powerful but not disturbing in a bad way LF (my partner words, as she wasn’t big fan of previous) and in my relatively small room I use only 50% of power. Music is just phenomenal and for the first one I use with Dirac calibration (previously it felt flat) - instruments sound so life like, violin feels like there was a person sitting in front of me playing. Btw I use KEF R3.
Hi, Gene. I also had to deal with a knee wall which is about 38 inches high. In my case, I needed it to separate 2 rooms and couldn't remove it. What I did to deal with it is remove about half of the drywall square footage on both sides, filled with rock wool and covered it. So, it's now like a bass trap between the two rooms, and works great! I used decorative material wrapped on a frame to cover the hole, so it looks intentional, and can be easily changed for a different look.
I have a pair of PSB Synchrony Ones positioned on a long wall, with the MLP opposite in front of an alcove. The windows (one in the alcove and a smaller one in the center of a short wall) have blinds but no drapes. Recipe for trouble? Certainly. I've largely solved the problem, however, by using most of the techniques in this video. After positioning the PSBs and listening seat optimally (although still on the long walls), I placed large GIK bass traps in a few corners and added a miniDSP DDRC-24 with Dirac Live. I also bought a Hsu Research ULS-15 Mk 2 to shore up the low end. I'll probably add more acoustic treatments later, but even at this point, the combination of sub, bass traps, and Dirac has resulted in significantly smoother, cleaner response below 300 Hz.
I went the subwoofer route. That fixed a lot of bass problems. In my case, I mixed in the subwoofer by ear and that didn't take a lot of experimenting.
For two channel fidelity, I use dual Rel 510s subs over high level in conjunction with Atlantic Technology 8600 speakers that I calibrated by ear. Super happy 😊
i always struggled in my theater with bass and i ended up with a triangle 2 on front one center back, and i went from 3/4 gain down to 1/3 gain and its still intense, but not bloated. its clean and pure. placement is everything, but sometimes that 3rd sub is the world, even if its a small one
Regardless of how good your floor standers are. How low they go. How full range they are. You need to keep in mind that for every octave you drop, or each time you halve the frequency response.. you need double the power in order to maintain the same SPL. No amplifier can achieve this, irrespective of brand or price. That’s where subs really come into their own. They augment that low end SPL leaving your amp to concentrate on mid bass, mid range and high frequencies. Use multiple, smaller subs, set to a lower gain, to even out bass distribution throughout your listening environment.
Good to see more two channel content. I prefer near field instead of dealing with questionable rooms. 12" mains and subs near field are like the biggest, baddest headphones minus the cranial separation null. 2-3 people can still fit in what amounts to a decent sweet spot if they like each other enough. Would like to see an Audioholics near field 2 channel rig/s (think monster desktop setup too) on steroids. I mean, you've already done everything else. :)
My TV room has a NAD M10 with Dirac room correction and I have the Carnegie Harritage bookshelf speakers I bought from GR Research. I added a Hsu Subwoofer and really like it for TV and music. Being in a wheelchair I have vinyl floors but i think maybe big leather sofas and chairs deaden the room, I think it sounds great.
Never had any bass problems with my 2 channel system though I did put the foam plug in the rear ports which did tighten the bass a bit. Now it’s just the front ports that are open. I do also use a REL subwoofer for the low bass but it’s not really needed 99% of the time.
With regards to bass traps..... if you take a 4" thick base trap and position it a maximum distance from the wall of 4", you achieve the acoustical thickness of an 8" base trap. Building a bass trap stand is cheap and easy to do, a flat board 8 " wide, with a rectangular box 6 to 8 8nches high attached to the base for the square base trap to sit in. You basically double your bass trap thickness, avoid damaging your wall, and they can be repositioned to tweak bass absorption.
I’ve used equaliser to flatten the frequencies and to Boost some and I’ve used Activesubwoofers and also passive subwoofers hooked from car audio hooked up to the main speakers output from the same amplifier directly underneath the speakers to get more bass as well and I’ve also used the wall to the corners 2 increase and decrease the bass This might be a strange one but I also used different amps to get better bass on speakers and that’s about it
It wasn't until my third home that I was able to pull my speakers away from the front wall and move my sofa the correct distance from the front wall according to the 38% rule. Bass is no longer boomy and I can hear the bass guitar much better. I do kind of miss some of the impact, though.
Proper speaker and seating position does make a big difference to the overall sound quality you can experience. But I do understand some people aren't allowed to move the seats into the ideal position because of the WAF etc.
I use a DSP antimode 2.0 dual core which automatically corrects frequencies for the subwoofer making less boomy and less fatiguing. 2 HSU VTF15 subs nearfield (seating position couch 1 on either side)
Thanks for the info Gene. Looking forward to the SBIR video. I have 3 questions about bass traps. Since you already have them, did they help with the SBIR issues? Also, what material are they made out of? It seems like some have concerns about using things like Rockwool because of it's small fibers and cancer, however it looks like many of the bass trap manufacturers use some form of that material. Since you've had Anthony Grimaldi there, can you tell us anything about that?
For my two channel system I have a Rogue Chronus Magnum II and a pair of Magnepan 1.7i. These mags have no bass so I added a martin logan 10 inch sub that I got for free when I bought a set of ESL’s and it fills in all the gaps and completes this system. This from a man that has twenty subs in a 12 x 14 room.
changed setup of speakers much my center speaker and rear surround there was not or little bass coming from speakers whatever I did with audyssey not gotten better have bought new center and new rear speakers that solved the lack of bass clarity and speech problem thanks Gene I did move speakers as you mentioned in video earlier ran audyssey 3th time what a difference it makes doing speaker calibration precisely jurassic park sounded close to real
Hi Gene, I'd like to have your comments on the following method for calibrating a sub-woofer by ear for two channel music using the SVS app. Note: method below assumes no bass management in amp. i.e. mains get the whole range. 1. At SVS app select “Low Pass Filter” disable LFE and set the LP frequency to match the -3dB settings for the main speakers. Select slope in accordance to speaker. SVS recommends 24dB/octave for ported mains or 12 dB/octave for sealed. Later on we can tune it further but these should be the initial settings. (For example my mains have -3dB at 40Hz and they are ported). 2. At the app - chose polarity and set to “Negative”. That’s right we temporarily set the polarity to negative just for calibration. 3. Play a test tone (e.g. one of the RUclips test tone videos) for the LP frequency you selected in (1). For example in my case I played a 40 Hz test tone. 4. At the app - slide the the phase from 0 to 180 and stop to the point where the test tone volume is minimal. 5. At the app - increase or decrease volume of the sub-woofer until the test tone volume is minimal. 6. Repeat steps 4, 5 until you hear nothing at your listening point. The tone from the mains and the tone from the sub cancel each other! That means that they are at the same phase and volume but opposite polarity. 7. At the app - return the polarity back to Positive. 8. Listen to music. If you still hear too much base, you can lower the LP frequency as in step (1) and repeat the calibrating steps for LP freq, slope, volume, phase and EQ (you can also change equalizer settings in SVS’s app). Expect some trial and error iterations, for example I had to lower LP frequency to 36 Hz for my sub to blend seamlessly. Otherwise I got too much base in base heavy tracks. (Reminder: Don't forget to return the polarity back to positive)
Dirac room correction: Can't fix the nulls, but brings everything else down to closer match it making much more even bass. Works great if your amp has the headroom to compensate.
@@billybobby7607 Sorry. I was thinking about normalizing a curve after calibration to encompass the nulls as well. If I subtract 3db across all frequencies then I need to put it back via the amp... I think I got my lines crossed in my comment. It's two different things. Sorry.
The speaker in my room output too much bass. There were three area I addressed to help mitigate the issue. One, was placement further into the room. Two, room treatment: Bass traps in the corners and items in the walls to diffuse reflections. The third, was to address synergy of the speakers and amplification. This one is not practical, on par with building the wall to address the suck-out in your office. However, the mono-blocks I was using simply over drove them. Even though bass quality was good, all you could hear was low end. Switched to a different make and model of amplifier and things balanced out.
Get it assembled by some of the experts insist on they use 8 to 10 amp Toroidal transformer for power supply and 4 capacitors of 10000mfd to back up. high current power supply is the one which drives your amplifier. thats why when you connect a cheap car stereo to the car it gives good sound because car battery gives sufficient current to the stereo.
Hi Gene, You describe perfectly what issues that I experienced in my room, it seems the only way I can get decent bass is to place my listening chair close to the back wall which is further away than I would like as I’m using monitors with a subwoofer. The bass doesn’t seem boomy so it’s not as bad as some set ups although I’d like to move closer , if I do move closer even by just a few feet there is a significant output decrease.. I moved the speakers out from the wall as well to hopefully improve the imaging and soundstage , they are about 3 feet out from the front wall.. what’s your thoughts on anything I could do to improve the overall sound quality and bass performance, I have watched the video and I’ll definitely try some of your suggestions, what about added a second sub to the stereo set up, the sub I have is a rel and it’s in the right hand corner. Thanks Gerald
Good day Gene, I have an Anthem AVM 70, Parasound Halo A51 5ch amp and B&W 802D3 front, 804D3 rear and HTM81D4 center. I can't get Bass out of my system. Can you please recommend trouble shooting méthodes for this set up?
Hey gene love your content. I was wondering when the full review of the yamaha a6a is going to be posted..... Im a long time yamaha guy who is currently on the fence. I am considering switching to the Denon camp with the 6700h.. or work towards a monolith set up. I'm running a larger paradigm monitor set up. 7.1 . And a monolith thx 15 sub. Thanks again for all the hours of great content and learning 👍
Can you make a video about what could cause Tinnitus in a hometheater system? Like problems with acoustics, phase, frequency sensitivity, compression, noise, non-linear tweeter behaviour or whatever various explainations you can come up with in addition to the more obvious reasons such as too high SPL and too long listening duration? It seems many are experiencing this and can't find the explaination and solution to their problem.
Hearing damage as you get older causes tinnitus. I personally suffer from a mild case of it in my left ear. If a room is too noisy and acoustics aren't controlled, it can amplify the problem when listening to music.
Great educational vids Gene, Thank you so much. Back in the day I had a Kenwood TK140X 2 channel amp and 2 Frazier Mark 4 speakers. I could always get more base than needed, it could easily rattle the windows. I recently purchased a Yamaha RX-A2A. I am still using the Frazier MK4s, have a Klipsch center speaker and 2 Polk sub woofers, one front center and the second on the opposite side of my room behind the seats. I am unable to get anywhere near the base I use to get from the old Kenwood. I would like to be able to have so much base that I have to turn it down. We listen to alot of music from bluetooth and vinyl, and we like our DVD movies. What additional info can I supply so that you might be able to help me solve this issue.
I've got a few dips at 86hz and 115hz I'm struggling to remove. Would like to know more about bass traps etc. Already running VAF Gravitas to match my DCX VAF towers.
Hi gene thanks for the video , you have awsome videos i find myself watching them for hours:). Can you do advanced arc genesis calibration video? There are a lot of options in arc and and there is no in dept advanced tutorial out there, i find myself lost in the calibration. What is the correct room gain, should i use deep bass gain what high roll frequency drop... It will be awsome to get a very in dept explanation as you usually do. Thanks
Awesome tips! I am curious say you want to add two subwoofers in the back to smooth out the frequency response do they need to be the same model as the front? Sure having everything the same is the best but what I mean is can you have two really great (expensive) subs in the front and have two cheaper subs in the back and still get the benefits of smoothing out the frequency response.
Why would you not use some room correction settings to bring up the bass in that 90Hz range just a little to mix it in with the Sub for a fuller bass response?
If you're sitting in a null, you may need a lot of boost, which quickly eats amp power and can overdrive a speaker. I've done this sparingly, but ONLY if the system has enough dynamic range to accommodate.
Have my yamaha towers about a foot from each corner toed in just ever so slightly and they produce excellent bass, i hardly power up my sub unless im watching a movie.
As always, great video, Gene. I was curious about one aspect that you didn't talk about in this video, although you might have disscussed it at some point in the past. That's tne amplifier's power vs. speakers recommended and nominal power. That's something that's kept me wondering for a while now, and I can't seem to be able to get a clear answer anywhere. My towers have a nominal power handling of 200W with a recommended amplifier power of 80-200w. I'm currently driving them - bi-amplified - by a 5-ch power amp that offers 140W. Now Ive heard/read that being a bit overpowered would give them more flexibility and responsiveness at higher volumes. So I'm wondering if they are not currently a bit underpowered, and I was considering switching for a 225W power amp, that might interest me. So in short... what do you think about making sure thy are not underpowered? Thanks a bunvh!
those 5 channel stuff are pure crap for listening music. for music the best is two channel hi fi amplifier with loudness option in the Amp. your tower should have good 8" or 10 "subs . Aske the seller whats the power supply Amplifier. a Toroidal transformer with 8 amps backed by 4 10000mfd capacitors should be sufficient to get that kick drum feel. Particularly those bass drivers need good current in low volume to drive them. so the Power supply plays a major role.
I have a question that is related with bass performance. Does acoustic insulators are useful or snake oil? Some have a very high price. A kit of 4 around US $ 200.
Decoupling your floorstanders from the floor with some isolation feet can tighten up your bass response like no other. Mine also have lower and upper rear ports…plugging just the bottom ports with a rolled up sock further clarified the bass while retaining most of the punch.
i have commented this previously but i wanted to know what you think about cone tweeters? are they any good?(if you make this video i would appreciate if you didn't snow my channel name. i want to stay as anonymous as possible.) 🙂
Hi Gene, my issue with two channel audio like music is I can't get good bass even though I have two paradigm monitor sub 12s running on independent subwoofer outputs from my Denon AVR-4520CI. With multichannel movies the subs sound amazing but with regular two channels they don't. I have both crossed at 80hz. If you could make a video on that I would be grateful I'm sure others would as well. Thanks
@@ajsdfk I don't think so as the subs do play. If it was set to just stereo for two channel sources I'm assuming the subs would not play am I correct on that? I think I have the AVR set to auto detect the source material and switch on its own to the proper setting, but the subs do play they just do not have the impact as they do with movies. Just don't hear or feel that depth. It also seems that the louder I put the volume on two channel sources like music the less bass I hear and the more highs I hear like the highes are drowning out the bass kinda. My mains are paradigm monitor series 7 full range floor towers, but I have them set to small and I have them bi amped not bi wired, but actually bi amping because my AVR has the space for it.
Your Denon AVR won’t do any bass management. Buy KEF kc62 and connect your front speakers through it - it can integrate nicely with variety of speakers, it’s got both high low pass filters.
2 channel stereo will sound different from strait or direct. and different from digital. I'm thinking that's why the bass sound different. try listening in 5.1 or 7 1 stereo and then 5.1 or 7.1 enhanced to see if it's a difference
getting a good bass is a tricky issue. First your Amplifier should have a good current capacity power supply unit inside Like Minimum 5Amp to 10 Amp ( very good) at least 4nos 10000 mfd capacitors to boost. then only you get a solid punching Bass. for the sake of bass you can't change your home, also you cant sit in the middle or corner of the room or else you cant put in those speakers at the centere of your living room. once the Amplifier has the power surely the speaker will sound good. final word when you buy the system that sales guy will play it in full volume to prove the bass just tell him to shut up. Carry your favorite CD or pen drive play the songs in low volume. you should get good bass in low volume no body listen in showroom volume at home??!! use thick curtains and add carpet to the living room.
all problems bz of money: if you have unlimited$ you will pay for vip/hiend and be don’t bother. If you r “poor”, you will get 1 sub, if you have more money - you will think “i can buy a better sub (more power, more quality)… You know what i mean: everybody think like this: “if i have thousand dollar - i can get 1 good sub”, two subs will he half of this “good”
looks like you run short of money no worry buy a 2.1 home theatre for 100 dollar simple even it sounds good. the system which cost 1000 dollars don't have the sound quality difference of 900 dollars may be 200 dollars rest 700 dollars the rich are throwing away on brands. come on cheer up have booze.😍
Engage the loudness button and adjust the tone controls on your 42 year old receiver. Oh wait, you’re a purist so your preamp doesn’t have these functions to accommodate for our non linear hearing. Oh well, suck up the bad bass.
The best thing I did to get my bass back was add vintage late 70's gear. I us a Sansui BA3000 amp and never looked back.
I use 4 sealed, servo Martin Logan subs and my new processor has Dirac Live with full bass control. I got good bass response pretty much throughout the room
For two channel stereo, I always use toe in or out and play with the tilt to tracks with some midrange, kick drum and delay to finalize the testing. If your kick drum is off? The entire sound stage will be off. Many guys forget about kick drum. That's how we did it in the old days and it still works now. Graphs are great but in the end, you need to listen to get it right. That way a movie music soundtrack will be also be more accurate spread across the three channels. Once you do this, your movies will sound awesome...
I hate it when the kick drum is off!
To get that kick drum right is the real issue. olden days few hi fi systems came with those low vol, loudness onwith heart thumping Hi FI it was a delight to sit in a sofa and have a whiskey glass in your hand. Pure Country pub feel.
Good day Gene and than you for another appropriate and excellent video.
The methods I used was: a) moving the speaker. I observed the difference between using the long and short walls, and the negative effects of having a half wall, like your experience.
b) I have moved the furniture and this created a huge difference. The understanding I figured a few years ago is this: the further away, the better the response (this effects of harmonics and the creation of standing wave was explained in some your other videos)
I also use android app, signal analyzer (using phone mic, I know this is not ideal as the frequency response of the mic is poor). This nevertheless gives me some idea of idea of what is happening from a frequency/spl perspective at different places in the room.
I do intend to get a proper mic like the Dayton that you described.
I had been thinking to try and get my living room 2-channel set up to just 2 full range speakers and eliminate the couple of subs I already have in there, but I think per #5 I'm going to just accept and stick with having the subs. I think it'll positively impact the overall audio use of the room. It is probably worth keeping them and little extra complexity they bring to the setup.
once you are habitual of sub then no point in going for two speakers. But the original HI Fi sound is in those two speakers, like three way one 10" sub one mid 4'5" one silk dome tweeter its something vintage style fully sealed. you get the pure sound. then you have so many designs with bass reflex models etc they sound colored like artificially boosted bass and treble. again if you are lover of thumping bass then separate sub is the best
Had 2x SVS sb1000 pro then 2x micro 3000 which didn’t go as low but had bigger punch and cleaner response now changed to single KEF kf92 and it absolutely destroys previous ones. Much tighter much more powerful, night and day difference I never knew was possible. Movies have got this powerful but not disturbing in a bad way LF (my partner words, as she wasn’t big fan of previous) and in my relatively small room I use only 50% of power. Music is just phenomenal and for the first one I use with Dirac calibration (previously it felt flat) - instruments sound so life like, violin feels like there was a person sitting in front of me playing.
Btw I use KEF R3.
Hi, Gene. I also had to deal with a knee wall which is about 38 inches high. In my case, I needed it to separate 2 rooms and couldn't remove it. What I did to deal with it is remove about half of the drywall square footage on both sides, filled with rock wool and covered it. So, it's now like a bass trap between the two rooms, and works great! I used decorative material wrapped on a frame to cover the hole, so it looks intentional, and can be easily changed for a different look.
I have a pair of PSB Synchrony Ones positioned on a long wall, with the MLP opposite in front of an alcove. The windows (one in the alcove and a smaller one in the center of a short wall) have blinds but no drapes. Recipe for trouble? Certainly.
I've largely solved the problem, however, by using most of the techniques in this video. After positioning the PSBs and listening seat optimally (although still on the long walls), I placed large GIK bass traps in a few corners and added a miniDSP DDRC-24 with Dirac Live. I also bought a Hsu Research ULS-15 Mk 2 to shore up the low end. I'll probably add more acoustic treatments later, but even at this point, the combination of sub, bass traps, and Dirac has resulted in significantly smoother, cleaner response below 300 Hz.
I went the subwoofer route. That fixed a lot of bass problems. In my case, I mixed in the subwoofer by ear and that didn't take a lot of experimenting.
For two channel fidelity, I use dual Rel 510s subs over high level in conjunction with Atlantic Technology 8600 speakers that I calibrated by ear. Super happy 😊
i always struggled in my theater with bass and i ended up with a triangle 2 on front one center back, and i went from 3/4 gain down to 1/3 gain and its still intense, but not bloated. its clean and pure. placement is everything, but sometimes that 3rd sub is the world, even if its a small one
Regardless of how good your floor standers are. How low they go. How full range they are. You need to keep in mind that for every octave you drop, or each time you halve the frequency response.. you need double the power in order to maintain the same SPL. No amplifier can achieve this, irrespective of brand or price. That’s where subs really come into their own. They augment that low end SPL leaving your amp to concentrate on mid bass, mid range and high frequencies. Use multiple, smaller subs, set to a lower gain, to even out bass distribution throughout your listening environment.
Thats always been the problem with full range towers. Bass response dependent on placement. Another great Video by the way Gene :)
Good to see more two channel content. I prefer near field instead of dealing with questionable rooms. 12" mains and subs near field are like the biggest, baddest headphones minus the cranial separation null. 2-3 people can still fit in what amounts to a decent sweet spot if they like each other enough.
Would like to see an Audioholics near field 2 channel rig/s (think monster desktop setup too) on steroids. I mean, you've already done everything else. :)
My TV room has a NAD M10 with Dirac room correction and I have the Carnegie Harritage bookshelf speakers I bought from GR Research. I added a Hsu Subwoofer and really like it for TV and music. Being in a wheelchair I have vinyl floors but i think maybe big leather sofas and chairs deaden the room, I think it sounds great.
Never had any bass problems with my 2 channel system though I did put the foam plug in the rear ports which did tighten the bass a bit. Now it’s just the front ports that are open. I do also use a REL subwoofer for the low bass but it’s not really needed 99% of the time.
With regards to bass traps..... if you take a 4" thick base trap and position it a maximum distance from the wall of 4", you achieve the acoustical thickness of an 8" base trap. Building a bass trap stand is cheap and easy to do, a flat board 8 " wide, with a rectangular box 6 to 8 8nches high attached to the base for the square base trap to sit in. You basically double your bass trap thickness, avoid damaging your wall, and they can be repositioned to tweak bass absorption.
Yep, no floor space for bass traps in my office, unfortunately.
I’ve used equaliser to flatten the frequencies and to Boost some and I’ve used Activesubwoofers and also passive subwoofers hooked from car audio hooked up to the main speakers output from the same amplifier directly underneath the speakers to get more bass as well and I’ve also used the wall to the corners 2 increase and decrease the bass This might be a strange one but I also used different amps to get better bass on speakers and that’s about it
It wasn't until my third home that I was able to pull my speakers away from the front wall and move my sofa the correct distance from the front wall according to the 38% rule. Bass is no longer boomy and I can hear the bass guitar much better.
I do kind of miss some of the impact, though.
Proper speaker and seating position does make a big difference to the overall sound quality you can experience.
But I do understand some people aren't allowed to move the seats into the ideal position because of the WAF etc.
ALWAYS SUPER INFORMATIVE MY MAN!
I use a DSP antimode 2.0 dual core which automatically corrects frequencies for the subwoofer making less boomy and less fatiguing. 2 HSU VTF15 subs nearfield (seating position couch 1 on either side)
Great Video as always. Hey, could you Do a Video on Double Bass and Single Bass Arrays? Not a lot of people talking about this. Whats your opinion?
Thanks for the info Gene. Looking forward to the SBIR video. I have 3 questions about bass traps. Since you already have them, did they help with the SBIR issues? Also, what material are they made out of? It seems like some have concerns about using things like Rockwool because of it's small fibers and cancer, however it looks like many of the bass trap manufacturers use some form of that material. Since you've had Anthony Grimaldi there, can you tell us anything about that?
For my two channel system I have a Rogue Chronus Magnum II and a pair of Magnepan 1.7i. These mags have no bass so I added a martin logan 10 inch sub that I got for free when I bought a set of ESL’s and it fills in all the gaps and completes this system. This from a man that has twenty subs in a 12 x 14 room.
changed setup of speakers much my center speaker and rear surround there was not or little bass coming from speakers whatever I did with audyssey not gotten better have bought new center and new rear speakers that solved the lack of bass clarity and speech problem thanks Gene I did move speakers as you mentioned in video earlier ran audyssey 3th time what a difference it makes doing speaker calibration precisely jurassic park sounded close to real
Hi Gene,
I'd like to have your comments on the following method for calibrating a sub-woofer by ear for two channel music using the SVS app.
Note: method below assumes no bass management in amp. i.e. mains get the whole range.
1. At SVS app select “Low Pass Filter” disable LFE and set the LP frequency to match the -3dB settings for the main speakers. Select slope in accordance to speaker. SVS recommends 24dB/octave for ported mains or 12 dB/octave for sealed. Later on we can tune it further but these should be the initial settings. (For example my mains have -3dB at 40Hz and they are ported).
2. At the app - chose polarity and set to “Negative”. That’s right we temporarily set the polarity to negative just for calibration.
3. Play a test tone (e.g. one of the RUclips test tone videos) for the LP frequency you selected in (1). For example in my case I played a 40 Hz test tone.
4. At the app - slide the the phase from 0 to 180 and stop to the point where the test tone volume is minimal.
5. At the app - increase or decrease volume of the sub-woofer until the test tone volume is minimal.
6. Repeat steps 4, 5 until you hear nothing at your listening point. The tone from the mains and the tone from the sub cancel each other! That means that they are at the same phase and volume but opposite polarity.
7. At the app - return the polarity back to Positive.
8. Listen to music. If you still hear too much base, you can lower the LP frequency as in step (1) and repeat the calibrating steps for LP freq, slope, volume, phase and EQ (you can also change equalizer settings in SVS’s app). Expect some trial and error iterations, for example I had to lower LP frequency to 36 Hz for my sub to blend seamlessly. Otherwise I got too much base in base heavy tracks.
(Reminder: Don't forget to return the polarity back to positive)
Sounds like a nice method. Will give it a try
@@etienneschoettel4476 was it helpful?
EXCELENTE TRABAJO
MUCHAS GRACIAS
UN FUERTE ABRAZO DESDE SANTIAGO DE CHILE
Dirac room correction: Can't fix the nulls, but brings everything else down to closer match it making much more even bass. Works great if your amp has the headroom to compensate.
Cutting peaks doesn't cut into amp headroom
@@billybobby7607 What I meant is if frequencies are cut than volume must be raised to compensate for db loss if peak volume is what you are used to.
@@rlwings no it just cuts the peaks it doesn't require extra power
Boosting valleys does sap power
@@billybobby7607 Sorry. I was thinking about normalizing a curve after calibration to encompass the nulls as well. If I subtract 3db across all frequencies then I need to put it back via the amp... I think I got my lines crossed in my comment. It's two different things. Sorry.
The speaker in my room output too much bass. There were three area I addressed to help mitigate the issue.
One, was placement further into the room.
Two, room treatment: Bass traps in the corners and items in the walls to diffuse reflections.
The third, was to address synergy of the speakers and amplification. This one is not practical, on par with building the wall to address the suck-out in your office. However, the mono-blocks I was using simply over drove them. Even though bass quality was good, all you could hear was low end. Switched to a different make and model of amplifier and things balanced out.
Great video, looking forward to more on this topic.
Subwoofer integration is the best solution 👍
More 2-channel topics please.
Get it assembled by some of the experts insist on they use 8 to 10 amp Toroidal transformer for power supply and 4 capacitors of 10000mfd to back up. high current power supply is the one which drives your amplifier. thats why when you connect a cheap car stereo to the car it gives good sound because car battery gives sufficient current to the stereo.
@@changappalarny4701 WTH are you talking about foo
Hi Gene,
You describe perfectly what issues that I experienced in my room, it seems the only way I can get decent bass is to place my listening chair close to the back wall which is further away than I would like as I’m using monitors with a subwoofer.
The bass doesn’t seem boomy so it’s not as bad as some set ups although I’d like to move closer , if I do move closer even by just a few feet there is a significant output decrease.. I moved the speakers out from the wall as well to hopefully improve the imaging and soundstage , they are about 3 feet out from the front wall.. what’s your thoughts on anything I could do to improve the overall sound quality and bass performance, I have watched the video and I’ll definitely try some of your suggestions, what about added a second sub to the stereo set up, the sub I have is a rel and it’s in the right hand corner.
Thanks
Gerald
Good day Gene,
I have an Anthem AVM 70, Parasound Halo A51 5ch amp and B&W 802D3 front, 804D3 rear and HTM81D4 center. I can't get Bass out of my system. Can you please recommend trouble shooting méthodes for this set up?
Hey gene love your content. I was wondering when the full review of the yamaha a6a is going to be posted..... Im a long time yamaha guy who is currently on the fence. I am considering switching to the Denon camp with the 6700h.. or work towards a monolith set up. I'm running a larger paradigm monitor set up. 7.1 . And a monolith thx 15 sub. Thanks again for all the hours of great content and learning 👍
Remodel the house to fix the 25-30Hz range. That's why I'm here for.
Hey Gene is that couch from article? It’s nice!
A bass integration video would be very helpful
Can you make a video about what could cause Tinnitus in a hometheater system? Like problems with acoustics, phase, frequency sensitivity, compression, noise, non-linear tweeter behaviour or whatever various explainations you can come up with in addition to the more obvious reasons such as too high SPL and too long listening duration? It seems many are experiencing this and can't find the explaination and solution to their problem.
Hearing damage as you get older causes tinnitus. I personally suffer from a mild case of it in my left ear. If a room is too noisy and acoustics aren't controlled, it can amplify the problem when listening to music.
Great educational vids Gene, Thank you so much. Back in the day I had a Kenwood TK140X 2 channel amp and 2 Frazier Mark 4 speakers. I could always get more base than needed, it could easily rattle the windows. I recently purchased a Yamaha RX-A2A. I am still using the Frazier MK4s, have a Klipsch center speaker and 2 Polk sub woofers, one front center and the second on the opposite side of my room behind the seats. I am unable to get anywhere near the base I use to get from the old Kenwood. I would like to be able to have so much base that I have to turn it down. We listen to alot of music from bluetooth and vinyl, and we like our DVD movies. What additional info can I supply so that you might be able to help me solve this issue.
Can moving the distance between the speaker and the wall behind it help with bass response?
I've got a few dips at 86hz and 115hz I'm struggling to remove. Would like to know more about bass traps etc. Already running VAF Gravitas to match my DCX VAF towers.
Hi gene thanks for the video , you have awsome videos i find myself watching them for hours:).
Can you do advanced arc genesis calibration video? There are a lot of options in arc and and there is no in dept advanced tutorial out there, i find myself lost in the calibration. What is the correct room gain, should i use deep bass gain what high roll frequency drop...
It will be awsome to get a very in dept explanation as you usually do. Thanks
6:49 Pat Patrol ... looks like at my home too when you have kid hahaha
Thanks!
Do you run the speakers full range or stick with the crossover?.. For home theater use some usually have a crossover with mains set to small.
Awesome tips!
I am curious say you want to add two subwoofers in the back to smooth out the frequency response do they need to be the same model as the front?
Sure having everything the same is the best but what I mean is can you have two really great (expensive) subs in the front and have two cheaper subs in the back and still get the benefits of smoothing out the frequency response.
Question...(anyone can answer) how far from the rear wall are you placing sealed subs for the best overall performance?
Use anthem 2 channel sounds great if you know how to set up arc
Why would you not use some room correction settings to bring up the bass in that 90Hz range just a little to mix it in with the Sub for a fuller bass response?
If you're sitting in a null, you may need a lot of boost, which quickly eats amp power and can overdrive a speaker. I've done this sparingly, but ONLY if the system has enough dynamic range to accommodate.
Have my yamaha towers about a foot from each corner toed in just ever so slightly and they produce excellent bass, i hardly power up my sub unless im watching a movie.
Gene do you use ARC in the str preamp?
Put the speakers on the corners of a rectangular room and sub about 1/4 out from one of the walls between speakers
That's good If you don't care about setting up good imaging and soundstage.
As always, great video, Gene. I was curious about one aspect that you didn't talk about in this video, although you might have disscussed it at some point in the past. That's tne amplifier's power vs. speakers recommended and nominal power. That's something that's kept me wondering for a while now, and I can't seem to be able to get a clear answer anywhere. My towers have a nominal power handling of 200W with a recommended amplifier power of 80-200w. I'm currently driving them - bi-amplified - by a 5-ch power amp that offers 140W. Now Ive heard/read that being a bit overpowered would give them more flexibility and responsiveness at higher volumes. So I'm wondering if they are not currently a bit underpowered, and I was considering switching for a 225W power amp, that might interest me. So in short... what do you think about making sure thy are not underpowered? Thanks a bunvh!
those 5 channel stuff are pure crap for listening music. for music the best is two channel hi fi amplifier with loudness option in the Amp. your tower should have good 8" or 10 "subs . Aske the seller whats the power supply Amplifier. a Toroidal transformer with 8 amps backed by 4 10000mfd capacitors should be sufficient to get that kick drum feel. Particularly those bass drivers need good current in low volume to drive them. so the Power supply plays a major role.
How about buying extra mics on ebay. To keep on calibrating and keep my 12 year old pioneer avr going.
I have a question that is related with bass performance. Does acoustic insulators are useful or snake oil? Some have a very high price. A kit of 4 around US $ 200.
buy a powered sub woofer why drink snake oil?? Drink chivas regal. also don't search for the non existing frequency of Audiophiles 🤣
Decoupling your floorstanders from the floor with some isolation feet can tighten up your bass response like no other. Mine also have lower and upper rear ports…plugging just the bottom ports with a rolled up sock further clarified the bass while retaining most of the punch.
This is why my 2ch. system will always have a loudness button and a midrange button.
When are going to start doing videos in 4k. Your video quality isn't to good but please keep the videos coming 👍
These are recorded livestreams the software limits to 1080p. 4k only for produced videos.
i have commented this previously but i wanted to know what you think about cone tweeters? are they any good?(if you make this video i would appreciate if you didn't snow my channel name. i want to stay as anonymous as possible.) 🙂
If I stand between the speakers the bass is good but when I go back to sit down it goes away.
yes how to read the rew values when using the microphone [ thats my next purchase ]
if the bass in a speaker has no sound, it is probably the electronic curcuit board?
Hi Gene, my issue with two channel audio like music is I can't get good bass even though I have two paradigm monitor sub 12s running on independent subwoofer outputs from my Denon AVR-4520CI. With multichannel movies the subs sound amazing but with regular two channels they don't. I have both crossed at 80hz. If you could make a video on that I would be grateful I'm sure others would as well. Thanks
Your AVR is probably running strictly stereo for two channel sources.
@@ajsdfk I don't think so as the subs do play. If it was set to just stereo for two channel sources I'm assuming the subs would not play am I correct on that? I think I have the AVR set to auto detect the source material and switch on its own to the proper setting, but the subs do play they just do not have the impact as they do with movies. Just don't hear or feel that depth.
It also seems that the louder I put the volume on two channel sources like music the less bass I hear and the more highs I hear like the highes are drowning out the bass kinda.
My mains are paradigm monitor series 7 full range floor towers, but I have them set to small and I have them bi amped not bi wired, but actually bi amping because my AVR has the space for it.
Your Denon AVR won’t do any bass management. Buy KEF kc62 and connect your front speakers through it - it can integrate nicely with variety of speakers, it’s got both high low pass filters.
@@whitecrowuk575 my AVR does do separate bass management actually
2 channel stereo will sound different from strait or direct. and different from digital. I'm thinking that's why the bass sound different. try listening in 5.1 or 7 1 stereo and then 5.1 or 7.1 enhanced to see if it's a difference
I get better results using subs that have speaker inputs but then again I have cheap equipment.
getting a good bass is a tricky issue. First your Amplifier should have a good current capacity power supply unit inside Like Minimum 5Amp to 10 Amp ( very good) at least 4nos 10000 mfd capacitors to boost. then only you get a solid punching Bass. for the sake of bass you can't change your home, also you cant sit in the middle or corner of the room or else you cant put in those speakers at the centere of your living room. once the Amplifier has the power surely the speaker will sound good. final word when you buy the system that sales guy will play it in full volume to prove the bass just tell him to shut up. Carry your favorite CD or pen drive play the songs in low volume. you should get good bass in low volume no body listen in showroom volume at home??!! use thick curtains and add carpet to the living room.
We don't need help because you say so.Stop trying to sell products at the expense of honesty.
What a stupid comment. This video had nothing to do with any product promotions.
💪💪💪
Nobody addressed the topic of timbre matching.
@Sunrayman123 no such thing as timber matching bass.
@@Audioholics I was referring to the complete surround set up
Here's an idea, trust ur ears, after running ur PEQ on ur equipment and adjust accordingly, after toe-in, yada, yada.
No room for subwoofers
all problems bz of money: if you have unlimited$ you will pay for vip/hiend and be don’t bother. If you r “poor”, you will get 1 sub, if you have more money - you will think “i can buy a better sub (more power, more quality)… You know what i mean: everybody think like this: “if i have thousand dollar - i can get 1 good sub”, two subs will he half of this “good”
looks like you run short of money no worry buy a 2.1 home theatre for 100 dollar simple even it sounds good. the system which cost 1000 dollars don't have the sound quality difference of 900 dollars may be 200 dollars rest 700 dollars the rich are throwing away on brands. come on cheer up have booze.😍
Engage the loudness button and adjust the tone controls on your 42 year old receiver.
Oh wait, you’re a purist so your preamp doesn’t have these functions to accommodate for our non linear hearing.
Oh well, suck up the bad bass.
headphones
🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Freemason, eh