He looks like he is moving well, loving the waves. Isn't it always the case that you come back from a great sail with a list of things to improve on the boat? But its not every time you come back with a praise poem! About the balance going to windward, before you add a whole layer of complexity by installing rudders, have you considered: -Moving the rig back by shortening the horizontal strut? -Installing a moving daggerboard to get balance (look up the sailing canoe Yakaboo} or maybe one that pivots to change CLR? -Installing twin (fore and aft) daggerboards (in ama or Vaka) to get balance? Keep it going Bro. You are doing what others just dream about.
Great comment Tom. Michel, Dave and you are really trying to prevent me getting into trouble! That's why I love this channel, and that's what's good about it!! You guys are all right each in his way, the more I think about a side rudder (a single one that moves over) the more I think about solving the real problem or just adding a piece of pipe (that comes off) onto the AD-Scull. Solving the real problem, would be lifting daggers fore and aft. these would improve running too.... Doing nothing, would be extending the scull's handle with a pipe. That would put me further forward and the longer handle would add leverage and ease the effort.... I plan cruising summer, so I need to really think about what would be the best solution for the least hassle..... The force is strong with you, Keep Shunting....... THANX Brah!
@@BalkanShipyards Ok, having thought some more about the stated problem: in order to weight shift to get balance you have to leave the helm position. Here are some thoughts. In order to steer you need to control the AD scull but to control the skull it needs to be in reach. Solution: Tiller extension. But to steer, the AD scull needs to be be sunk, just a little UP pressure of the hand, if not it floats up(?). Solution, make the sculling line you clip to the deck able to take compression: a strut. A tube fitted over the line, maybe a 10mm PVC water pipe for first trial. SO now a tiller extension (like in a racing dinghy) will work. BUT when you want to shunt the scull that will by a menace, swinging around, catching on everything. It could be reliably clipped out of the way? OR you could have a straight tube extension like you see on small outboard motors that snug fits over the existing tiller handle (But does that upset the geometry of steering Vs sculling?). Do you remove / replace it for shunting? OR. With the strut in place rig up steering lines that run around the deck so you can steer from several positions. See how Natt Herreschoff did this in Coquina. www.dhylanboats.com/wordpress/wp-content/images/plans/coquina_study_plans.pdf See items 40 and 44 on P5 of the PDF. You'd need it mirrored for / aft with a way to un-clip for shunting and re-clip for the new tack. BUT maybe this is all adding complexity, when K.I.S.S. is almost always the best way to go!
@@tomedom5107 Yes it floats up, but only at high speeds. Though ever worse, it flops over to the side, meaning it turns 90 degrees and drags along the surface. I need to hold it vertical when steering, it's easy that's what the downward facing handle is for. Your pipe in the lanyard is very smart, though I doubt it will handle the forces involved. My idea was like you said, adding a pipe to the AD scull that extends it forwards. that pipe should be easy to put on and get off. That's the most KISS I can think of.... Though there still remains the problem of it sending the CLR a mile aft.... And the longer the oar the higher it goes, making it tiring to hold on to for over any extended period of time. Mind you, that could probably get solved by a pipe that bends down. Anyway, the KISS of KISSes is that! Well, more looking at the boat and thinking resulted in a new/old idea. Dave said widen the gap between the deck boards and move the AD scull forward. That may work, but the whole thing will have to come through ahead of the aka, on Crystal Clear the oar had to go through a hole in the safety net, Getting it in and out in waves was a pain. I expect getting it through the deck boards will be the same..... So a side rudder mounted ahead of the aka pushed through the boards may be the solution. A small rudder on a short shaft, should be easy to handle (My AD scull is 2.5 meters long...). a long enough tiller (maybe telescopic, 2 pipes that slide in) will put me ahead of mid ship, and the rudder will be way ahead of my AD scull's current position. No need to widen the gap in the deck ether. The problem? THE YOKE.... It will need to go far down, to support the whole business from wobbling all over, instead of turning the boat..... So, from above deck board to under the aka is 10 cm, then maybe another 15 down? 25 cm Should work I hope?? Now we need 3 compression/tension struts from the lowest part of the yoke. 2 side ones going up to the aka, and a third going forward and connecting to the deck board.... So say a steel box profile of 20x20, from the top of the aka going 25 cm down, at the bottom welded on a half circle of 8 mm stock, imagine an oar lock. the sea will push the rudder shaft in and back. At the top some click on business like I had on Crystal Clear : ruclips.net/video/15LoaBdN86A/видео.html watch at 2:55 you will see what I mean I plan on achieving the same result, a rudder shaft fixed as low as possible and as high as possible... By the way canting it back, like on Crystal Clear worked really well, the idea is that even when not sailing,the light rudder floats up and so pushes itself into the lower yoke automatically. Or just add a pipe to the AD Scull.......?........ Ahhhhh..... the sigh of the never ending battle with the expensive laws of Physics. Though good thinking out d box Tom, proas demand exactly that. Don't stop, I'm open for the simple solution and if this is where it comes from, I will be all the happier. Thanks Man!
Another option is moving the rig leeward. It's pulling the boat forward as well as sideways, so the lateral position affects the balance. It's really noticeable with a crab claw rig. I like the idea of two dagger boards though. That seems really adjustable.
@@BalkanShipyards Understand the scull is not fixed in rotation of its main axis, which you need for sculling but not steering. Solution: find a way to lock the in-axis rotation while allowing the 'rowlock' pin to still rotate. Suggest a cam based or over-centre clamp to friction clamp it or, KISS.. a pin thru the 'rowlock' in horizontal axis maybe you can bend up one of those R shaped pin/clips used on launching trolleys to retain the wheel. Like this www.force4.co.uk/item/Marine-Pre-Packs/Stainless-Steel-R-Clips/THH but big enough to spring over the scull 'rowlock'. Easy to pull out, dangle on a string, easy to put in (when alignment is good).
It's all a road of trial and error, failure teaches us, not success.... When it works, you don't think about it, when it don't you scratch your head and make it........ all d best Chris, Keep shunting.... BSY
The force is strong, Bro. Finally got a micro cruiser to go out with, I plan on cruising the Med later on this summer.... the revolution has started. Keep shunting, bSY.
Captain John Marshall was the skipper of Scarborough whom the islands are name after, so I love your "Why Not" wa ohhh congratulation great sailing similar rigging, etc here in t Marshalls.
That is great to see Rael, I love the way the AD scull moves seamlessly between steering and propulsion. The progress you have made since Crystal Clear is so impressive - can't wait to see how the 30' turns out (will you be using the an AD scull for that one too?)
Thanx Chris, Yea a long road.... I feel that adding an engine is wrong mostly because it just complicates things and i couldn't find where to put it, I could just slap it somewhere, but it will never be perfect... So yea, Probably a 5 meter scull and 2 lifting side rudders. That's the plan, Keep shunting man, BSY.
Hey Rael, good news! if your proa devellops a strong Lee Helm, that means that your sail pressure point is to far forward. So your junk rig is so well balenced that you can set the sail directly on the vertical mast. Throw away your yard and all this shunting equipment and stay with only mast and sail!!!!
If I do that I wont be able to use the front half of my deck, because any weight there will cause extreme weather helm and point him right up. I'd rather have a balanced side rudder about 1.5 meters ahead of the AD-scull, with a long tiller to mid ship so I could sit further forward by the mast. I'm not giving up on this rig, I think it's the way it should be, Proas need the CE ahead of mid ship, these are the only vessels that can't be weighed down in the stern with a heavy engine to balance nose dive as sails fill, cos there is no stern, they will always bow down, so way ahead should be the CE. By the way, rudderless he balances perfectly well, and he runs very well too. No way will a proa with a sail at mid ship run like this one does.
Rael, you could at least try it out .... go sailing and set the sail at the mast ... you will know it then istead oif believing. If it works it will save a lot of wheight and work on Havaya
@@michel4765 Thanks bro, it will solve lee helm but it will create weather helm and running will be very hard. I started that way, WHY NOT? had a Crab Claw on a fixed mast (not a canting one) after shunts he would get stuck pointing to windward, until you moved back and put the ad scull in, another problem was (with a junk rig this should not happen...) the heavy boom would hold the sail from flying free, so boat would always make headway, if you stood ahead of the mast you could get backwinded. I got backwinded many times until I moved the CE forwards with the LaSHuNK. Now I never get backwinded. Thanks Man, But I feel the CE should stay forward,the CLR should move.
@@BalkanShipyards These are quite interesting comments, Rael, maybe you could try shifting the yard inline with the mast (or closer to that) when you are experiencing lee helm, this could save you creating the extra rudders, you already have the controls for adjusting the position of the yard.
Thats it!!!! all the experiments add up to a nice boat like this. One thing leads to another. I bet you have learned so much with all the build and design in all the boats. Safety first!!! I like it! always a plan B. If you are ready, the world opens up!! LOve it. Stay true to your instinct on the new boat. Looks like you know exactly what to do. Now go through the motions. Im looking to launch my "freestyle build" tri soon "Lucky Pigeon 14". I have a small crew and waiting for the right day. Get out there!!!
It's been a long road brah.... Though the revolution has started, 'safety first'..... Tell you a secret, I was alone beating to windward in a F4, sitting in the front, boat self steering. I got up and stood on the leepod.... Ama took off flew sky high, so I hurry back skipping over the white spreader bar between mast and yard. The top cleat caught my pants and held me from skipping over, panic set it, Leepod held us, ama sky high, it was only a couple seconds, I got loose moved over and brought the ama down. My heart was racing, the leepod saved me! The force is strong.... Keep shunting bro, BSY
Rael, can you make a gap between the planks you are sitting on a bit wider, and drop the skull between them, then just put the mount points for the skull forward where you need them? just an idea rather than trying to build a new rudder system that you need to raise and lower.
Interesting idea Dave! I do have some doubts about how exactly this could be done, so I will think about it further. Though the plan for now is not having lifting rudders in rudder cases like Russel Brown uses, I plan on making 1 side rudder like I had on Crystal Clear, that will connect to to side of the hull. this rudder will be way ahead of where my oar is, it will be a balanced rudder (meaning a portion of it is ahead of the shaft/axis), the tiller will go almost to the mast (about a meter forward) allowing me to sit at mid ship or maybe ahead of that....It's just a pain to design the click on, click off system, but I will find it ..... Thanx! interesting point! Keep shunting man! BSY
I feel You and Michel are right, as I said to Tom below..... Please read Tom's comment and my reply, simple solutions are very welcome............ All d best Dave.
It's been a while since you treated us to a video, I hope that means you've been sailing or building and not been sick. Hope your well mate, and I look forward to your next vid (no pressure mate)
Hey Dave, been roofing 24/7..... weekends been working for friends till 10 pm..... Funny, just came to mess with the boat, almost done, sailing soon, new rudder made, and adjustable CE working flawlessly!!! Many surprises coming your way, build vid soon... Sailing next.... all d best, keep shunting bro, Rael
@@BalkanShipyardsDoes all that work mean your building the kitty for Havaya then? I look forward to all your videos - but great to hear you've had some success with the rudders. Thanks for the quick reply 👍🏼
It's great to see everything working so well! How do you find sitting on a flat deck all day? I struggle with mine and really want my feet lower. Did you consider converting Crystal Clear to a LASHUNK rig?
Yea, it's hard, and the longer you sail the harder it gets..... Crystal Clear could get LaSHuNKed, but I don't know if I will do it, just because I want to build a bigger boat for longer cruising.... It's been a long road, I feel CC is to small for what I want to do, a 30 is the minimum for my needs. I've been thinking a lot about what to do with her.....
how did you figure out the proportions for the ad scull? I built a yuloh for my monohull, I got it working well enough eventually, but I struggled to find good information on how to design it. I can do 1.5 knots, once I got the ergonomics okay. Most people around me would rather spend many hours and thousands of dollars fixing their diesel engine but I am too lazy for that so I prefer to wait for the wind and maybe scull a little.
I'm the same bro, Mr Atsushi Doi is the AD scull man, search for him on the tube, he has many vids... I just guesstimated mine and it's perfect.... Not having an engine is a bonus, I think sailboats without them should cost more..... Keep sculling man respect! Balkan Shipyards.
@@dominictarrsailing Here's a video showing some stuff about the way I design AD-sculls .The pin fits into a bushing that's mounted to the deck, one on each side, the way proas like things to be... the pin rotates left to right in the bushing, the blade flicks over inside the big ring. Piece o'cake! dimensions too you will kind of see in the vid. The total length is 2.4 meters, making the blade about 80 cm long. I measure things on my screen and figure out the sizes by calculating ratios between what I know and what I want to know.... I don't remember the width of the blade, but if it's 80 cm long you will find the rest.... Good Luck man! Keep sculling, Balkan Shipyards. ruclips.net/video/o4vmI1Wbc2s/видео.html
Thank you Raël, nice to see you sailing!
WHY, YES ! 🙂
@@junk_rig_81 Why Yes ... Love it!!! 😍😁
Keep taking, junk rigger....
Balkan Shipyards
Wow! Just - WOW!
Great to see 'Why Not?' at sea. Simply beautiful. Thanks for taking us on this journey with you.
Very Very welcome my friend, let's start a revolution....... Keep shunting, BSY
"Lets shunt Piece o'cake"... Now that's a cool name for a boat! Great sailing with you man, thanks for bringing us along.
Yea, good name..... A day will come.... Happy u like him, Fair winds brother, BSY
Great job Rael. LaShunk looks beautiful cutting through the waves with ease. Look forward to your next video.
Happy u like him, Fine tuning vid soon, small side rudder coming up..... Keep shunting Peter BSY
Very informative movie for microcrusers. BRAVO!!
Thank you very much brother. Respect from the biggest shipyard in the Balkans to the biggest Proa Community in Europe. Keep Shunting, Balkan Shipyards
He looks like he is moving well, loving the waves. Isn't it always the case that you come back from a great sail with a list of things to improve on the boat?
But its not every time you come back with a praise poem!
About the balance going to windward, before you add a whole layer of complexity by installing rudders, have you considered:
-Moving the rig back by shortening the horizontal strut?
-Installing a moving daggerboard to get balance (look up the sailing canoe Yakaboo} or maybe one that pivots to change CLR?
-Installing twin (fore and aft) daggerboards (in ama or Vaka) to get balance?
Keep it going Bro. You are doing what others just dream about.
Great comment Tom. Michel, Dave and you are really trying to prevent me getting into trouble! That's why I love this channel, and that's what's good about it!! You guys are all right each in his way, the more I think about a side rudder (a single one that moves over) the more I think about solving the real problem or just adding a piece of pipe (that comes off) onto the AD-Scull.
Solving the real problem, would be lifting daggers fore and aft. these would improve running too....
Doing nothing, would be extending the scull's handle with a pipe. That would put me further forward and the longer handle would add leverage and ease the effort....
I plan cruising summer, so I need to really think about what would be the best solution for the least hassle.....
The force is strong with you, Keep Shunting....... THANX Brah!
@@BalkanShipyards Ok, having thought some more about the stated problem: in order to weight shift to get balance you have to leave the helm position. Here are some thoughts.
In order to steer you need to control the AD scull but to control the skull it needs to be in reach. Solution: Tiller extension. But to steer, the AD scull needs to be be sunk, just a little UP pressure of the hand, if not it floats up(?). Solution, make the sculling line you clip to the deck able to take compression: a strut. A tube fitted over the line, maybe a 10mm PVC water pipe for first trial.
SO now a tiller extension (like in a racing dinghy) will work. BUT when you want to shunt the scull that will by a menace, swinging around, catching on everything. It could be reliably clipped out of the way?
OR you could have a straight tube extension like you see on small outboard motors that snug fits over the existing tiller handle (But does that upset the geometry of steering Vs sculling?). Do you remove / replace it for shunting?
OR. With the strut in place rig up steering lines that run around the deck so you can steer from several positions. See how Natt Herreschoff did this in Coquina. www.dhylanboats.com/wordpress/wp-content/images/plans/coquina_study_plans.pdf See items 40 and 44 on P5 of the PDF. You'd need it mirrored for / aft with a way to un-clip for shunting and re-clip for the new tack.
BUT maybe this is all adding complexity, when K.I.S.S. is almost always the best way to go!
@@tomedom5107 Yes it floats up, but only at high speeds. Though ever worse, it flops over to the side, meaning it turns 90 degrees and drags along the surface. I need to hold it vertical when steering, it's easy that's what the downward facing handle is for. Your pipe in the lanyard is very smart, though I doubt it will handle the forces involved.
My idea was like you said, adding a pipe to the AD scull that extends it forwards. that pipe should be easy to put on and get off.
That's the most KISS I can think of.... Though there still remains the problem of it sending the CLR a mile aft.... And the longer the oar the higher it goes, making it tiring to hold on to for over any extended period of time. Mind you, that could probably get solved by a pipe that bends down. Anyway, the KISS of KISSes is that!
Well, more looking at the boat and thinking resulted in a new/old idea. Dave said widen the gap between the deck boards and move the AD scull forward. That may work, but the whole thing will have to come through ahead of the aka, on Crystal Clear the oar had to go through a hole in the safety net, Getting it in and out in waves was a pain. I expect getting it through the deck boards will be the same.....
So a side rudder mounted ahead of the aka pushed through the boards may be the solution. A small rudder on a short shaft, should be easy to handle (My AD scull is 2.5 meters long...). a long enough tiller (maybe telescopic, 2 pipes that slide in) will put me ahead of mid ship, and the rudder will be way ahead of my AD scull's current position. No need to widen the gap in the deck ether.
The problem? THE YOKE.... It will need to go far down, to support the whole business from wobbling all over, instead of turning the boat..... So, from above deck board to under the aka is 10 cm, then maybe another 15 down? 25 cm Should work I hope?? Now we need 3 compression/tension struts from the lowest part of the yoke. 2 side ones going up to the aka, and a third going forward and connecting to the deck board.... So say a steel box profile of 20x20, from the top of the aka going 25 cm down, at the bottom welded on a half circle of 8 mm stock, imagine an oar lock. the sea will push the rudder shaft in and back. At the top some click on business like I had on Crystal Clear : ruclips.net/video/15LoaBdN86A/видео.html watch at 2:55 you will see what I mean I plan on achieving the same result, a rudder shaft fixed as low as possible and as high as possible... By the way canting it back, like on Crystal Clear worked really well, the idea is that even when not sailing,the light rudder floats up and so pushes itself into the lower yoke automatically.
Or just add a pipe to the AD Scull.......?........
Ahhhhh..... the sigh of the never ending battle with the expensive laws of Physics.
Though good thinking out d box Tom, proas demand exactly that. Don't stop, I'm open for the simple solution and if this is where it comes from, I will be all the happier. Thanks Man!
Another option is moving the rig leeward. It's pulling the boat forward as well as sideways, so the lateral position affects the balance. It's really noticeable with a crab claw rig.
I like the idea of two dagger boards though. That seems really adjustable.
@@BalkanShipyards Understand the scull is not fixed in rotation of its main axis, which you need for sculling but not steering. Solution: find a way to lock the in-axis rotation while allowing the 'rowlock' pin to still rotate. Suggest a cam based or over-centre clamp to friction clamp it or, KISS.. a pin thru the 'rowlock' in horizontal axis maybe you can bend up one of those R shaped pin/clips used on launching trolleys to retain the wheel. Like this www.force4.co.uk/item/Marine-Pre-Packs/Stainless-Steel-R-Clips/THH but big enough to spring over the scull 'rowlock'. Easy to pull out, dangle on a string, easy to put in (when alignment is good).
Wikid upload Rael. Love your dedication to the Proa. From the Pacific. Mauri ora.
Thanks 4 acknowledging that brah, See you in the Pacific..... Keep Shunting, BSY
Nice video! I'm glad you're sharing your progress. I would love to see him shunt!
I shunted in this the video.
Beautiful boat 👍
Love your work and how you explain your testing, changes to make going forward.
It's all a road of trial and error, failure teaches us, not success.... When it works, you don't think about it, when it don't you scratch your head and make it........ all d best Chris, Keep shunting.... BSY
Looking awasom Real. Well done.
Awesome nice to see the concept matured.
Thanx Mike, Finally getting to where we hoped we will..... Pretty fast and safe.
Looks great! Very clever rig design, looks like it works well.
Thanks James! It was you that got me even thinking about Junks. Fair winds to you and Free Radical....... Keep Shunting, BSY
May the force be with you too brother.
The force is strong, Bro. Finally got a micro cruiser to go out with, I plan on cruising the Med later on this summer.... the revolution has started. Keep shunting, bSY.
Captain John Marshall was the skipper of Scarborough whom the islands are name after, so I love your "Why Not" wa ohhh congratulation great sailing similar rigging, etc here in t Marshalls.
Happy you love him! Thanks for the information, by the way I'm coming to the Marshalls!!! See you there...Keep shunting, Balkan Shipyards
That is great to see Rael, I love the way the AD scull moves seamlessly between steering and propulsion. The progress you have made since Crystal Clear is so impressive - can't wait to see how the 30' turns out (will you be using the an AD scull for that one too?)
Thanx Chris, Yea a long road.... I feel that adding an engine is wrong mostly because it just complicates things and i couldn't find where to put it, I could just slap it somewhere, but it will never be perfect... So yea, Probably a 5 meter scull and 2 lifting side rudders. That's the plan, Keep shunting man, BSY.
Hey Rael, good news! if your proa devellops a strong Lee Helm, that means that your sail pressure point is to far forward. So your junk rig is so well balenced that you can set the sail directly on the vertical mast. Throw away your yard and all this shunting equipment and stay with only mast and sail!!!!
If I do that I wont be able to use the front half of my deck, because any weight there will cause extreme weather helm and point him right up. I'd rather have a balanced side rudder about 1.5 meters ahead of the AD-scull, with a long tiller to mid ship so I could sit further forward by the mast. I'm not giving up on this rig, I think it's the way it should be, Proas need the CE ahead of mid ship, these are the only vessels that can't be weighed down in the stern with a heavy engine to balance nose dive as sails fill, cos there is no stern, they will always bow down, so way ahead should be the CE. By the way, rudderless he balances perfectly well, and he runs very well too. No way will a proa with a sail at mid ship run like this one does.
Rael, you could at least try it out .... go sailing and set the sail at the mast ... you will know it then istead oif believing. If it works it will save a lot of wheight and work on Havaya
Then you can sitin the rear and no need for shifting your body to the front
@@michel4765 Thanks bro, it will solve lee helm but it will create weather helm and running will be very hard. I started that way, WHY NOT? had a Crab Claw on a fixed mast (not a canting one) after shunts he would get stuck pointing to windward, until you moved back and put the ad scull in, another problem was (with a junk rig this should not happen...) the heavy boom would hold the sail from flying free, so boat would always make headway, if you stood ahead of the mast you could get backwinded. I got backwinded many times until I moved the CE forwards with the LaSHuNK. Now I never get backwinded. Thanks Man, But I feel the CE should stay forward,the CLR should move.
@@BalkanShipyards These are quite interesting comments, Rael, maybe you could try shifting the yard inline with the mast (or closer to that) when you are experiencing lee helm, this could save you creating the extra rudders, you already have the controls for adjusting the position of the yard.
Thats it!!!! all the experiments add up to a nice boat like this. One thing leads to another. I bet you have learned so much with all the build and design in all the boats. Safety first!!! I like it! always a plan B. If you are ready, the world opens up!! LOve it. Stay true to your instinct on the new boat. Looks like you know exactly what to do. Now go through the motions. Im looking to launch my "freestyle build" tri soon "Lucky Pigeon 14". I have a small crew and waiting for the right day. Get out there!!!
It's been a long road brah.... Though the revolution has started, 'safety first'..... Tell you a secret, I was alone beating to windward in a F4, sitting in the front, boat self steering. I got up and stood on the leepod.... Ama took off flew sky high, so I hurry back skipping over the white spreader bar between mast and yard. The top cleat caught my pants and held me from skipping over, panic set it, Leepod held us, ama sky high, it was only a couple seconds, I got loose moved over and brought the ama down. My heart was racing, the leepod saved me! The force is strong.... Keep shunting bro, BSY
@@BalkanShipyards Wow! Same on my single out rigger. I did a jibe and the outrigger flew up. I scrambled and set it back down. I didnt swim that day!!
Rael, can you make a gap between the planks you are sitting on a bit wider, and drop the skull between them, then just put the mount points for the skull forward where you need them? just an idea rather than trying to build a new rudder system that you need to raise and lower.
Interesting idea Dave! I do have some doubts about how exactly this could be done, so I will think about it further. Though the plan for now is not having lifting rudders in rudder cases like Russel Brown uses, I plan on making 1 side rudder like I had on Crystal Clear, that will connect to to side of the hull. this rudder will be way ahead of where my oar is, it will be a balanced rudder (meaning a portion of it is ahead of the shaft/axis), the tiller will go almost to the mast (about a meter forward) allowing me to sit at mid ship or maybe ahead of that....It's just a pain to design the click on, click off system, but I will find it ..... Thanx! interesting point! Keep shunting man! BSY
I feel You and Michel are right, as I said to Tom below..... Please read Tom's comment and my reply, simple solutions are very welcome............ All d best Dave.
Keeping it real as always Raul
Thanks Bro, no other way, Keep Shunting, Balkan Shipyards
Bru.....I hear some Jozi boykie via maybe Noordhoek or Scarborough......kannie wees nie? Am I right or or talking kak?
It's been a while since you treated us to a video, I hope that means you've been sailing or building and not been sick.
Hope your well mate, and I look forward to your next vid (no pressure mate)
Hey Dave, been roofing 24/7..... weekends been working for friends till 10 pm..... Funny, just came to mess with the boat, almost done, sailing soon, new rudder made, and adjustable CE working flawlessly!!! Many surprises coming your way, build vid soon... Sailing next.... all d best, keep shunting bro, Rael
@@BalkanShipyardsDoes all that work mean your building the kitty for Havaya then?
I look forward to all your videos - but great to hear you've had some success with the rudders.
Thanks for the quick reply 👍🏼
Bulkan Shipyards showing the way!
It's great to see everything working so well!
How do you find sitting on a flat deck all day? I struggle with mine and really want my feet lower.
Did you consider converting Crystal Clear to a LASHUNK rig?
Yea, it's hard, and the longer you sail the harder it gets..... Crystal Clear could get LaSHuNKed, but I don't know if I will do it, just because I want to build a bigger boat for longer cruising.... It's been a long road, I feel CC is to small for what I want to do, a 30 is the minimum for my needs. I've been thinking a lot about what to do with her.....
how did you figure out the proportions for the ad scull? I built a yuloh for my monohull, I got it working well enough eventually, but I struggled to find good information on how to design it. I can do 1.5 knots, once I got the ergonomics okay. Most people around me would rather spend many hours and thousands of dollars fixing their diesel engine but I am too lazy for that so I prefer to wait for the wind and maybe scull a little.
I'm the same bro, Mr Atsushi Doi is the AD scull man, search for him on the tube, he has many vids... I just guesstimated mine and it's perfect.... Not having an engine is a bonus, I think sailboats without them should cost more..... Keep sculling man respect! Balkan Shipyards.
@@BalkanShipyards yeah it looks really good! can you do a video showing the proportions and fittings you used? I'll make one for my yuloh ;)
@@BalkanShipyards oh yeah i watched all his stuff, but it looks like magic!
@@dominictarrsailing Here's a video showing some stuff about the way I design AD-sculls .The pin fits into a bushing that's mounted to the deck, one on each side, the way proas like things to be... the pin rotates left to right in the bushing, the blade flicks over inside the big ring. Piece o'cake! dimensions too you will kind of see in the vid. The total length is 2.4 meters, making the blade about 80 cm long. I measure things on my screen and figure out the sizes by calculating ratios between what I know and what I want to know.... I don't remember the width of the blade, but if it's 80 cm long you will find the rest.... Good Luck man! Keep sculling, Balkan Shipyards. ruclips.net/video/o4vmI1Wbc2s/видео.html
@@BalkanShipyards thanks! that looks great!
+1 To use the sail junk successfully, you need to squint your eyes well. )))