You are a God Sent! All my sewing machines stopped working during the pandemic, then, I found your video of a machine I've owned for nearly 20 years, but no repair guy wanted to touch: yes, the one in this video. I watched, I ordered the recommended products, then I watched again, paused the video, and followed your detailed instructions. 3 hours later, my machine purrs like a kitten and is back to showing those beautiful stitches I missed seeing for so long. Thank you, thank you, thank you! And thank you for also having a video of the vintage buttonholer, which I want to learn to use soon.
I'm glad you found the video, and thank you for rescuing that wonderful machine. BTW, you did it properly by watching once first and then again as you followed along. I know you'd enjoy the buttonholer. It takes some practice but once you get familiar with it the buttonholes you can make are impressive. The "hand work" (also called Purl-Edge) style is unique, IMO. Thanks for taking the time to comment, and happy sewing.
Congratulations on your new Rocketeer! Happy for you. If it did not come with the manual you can download a copy for free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 There is a known weakness with the bobbin winder spring, and sometimes the tension needs cleaning and/or adjusting. If you do find issues I have several more videos for it in a playlist you can find here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX Hope you enjoy it and thanks for watching my channel.
I'm glad you found the video, Jill Thank you for keeping your machine in service, and for watching my channel. Here are 20 more videos for this model 503A if you find any other issues. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX Happy sewing.
Thank you so much for volunteering your time to teach your wisdom. I just received a 503A as a gift and this video was a great help. I really appreciate the help you’ve provided me and the sewing community.
My machine has always made a humming sound when I start a seam. I've greased and oiled the machine per Andy Tube, gone through the motor, new bearings and brushes, still the same. I let the machine sit for a while before my next project so I oiled it again even though there was still plenty of oil. I noticed that the zig zag mechanism was actuated even if the lever was set to straight. So I pulled the zig zag cam off and tried the machine. No hum and everything started moving much freer and easier. Leave your zig zag cam off unless you know you're going to use the zig zag feature. Thanks Andy Tube.
I'm glad you found a workaround for the problem, Ralph. I appreciate you sharing it. I pinned your comment to the top of the comment section. When the machine sews a "wavery" stitch while set to the straight mode it's a sign some parts are dirty or out of adjustment. When a pattern cam is in place and the lever is moved to a width setting a mechanical follower is moved against the cam. As the follower tracks the undulations of the cam, associated parts move the Needle Bar Driving Arm to push on the Vibrating Bracket that holds the Needle Bar. That makes the Needle Bar swing back and forth. Swing Needle was an early name for ZigZag machines. I have videos of those parts if anyone is interested. Folks can also go to the Sewing Dude's website manuals page and get free copies of the 401A, 403A, 404, 500A, and 503A Service Manuals which show all the adjustments and remove/replacement parts instructions. Thank you again, Ralph, and happy quiet sewing.
Wow, what a thorough tutorial on cleaning, oiling and greasing a vintage Singer. I received a 500A today and I followed your instructions before even attempting to sew on it. Thank you so much, Andy!
I just want to say Thank You for creating such in depth videos that are easy to watch and learn from. I just got my first 503A and although she runs I am cleaning the dust bunnies out and ready to grease ans oil her per your clear instructions. She is gonna have a second life with me cuz I'm just a year older than her and I'm having mine. Once again I want to thank you Dr. Andy for your generosity to teaching the sewing community how to care for our machines 💜
I have a deal with folks like you, Wanda. I help you fix and maintain your machines and you use them to create beautiful things. It sure works for me. I don't sew at all so I am fascinated by the creative crafting people do with a wonderful machine like your Rocketeer 503A. From fine straight stitching to zigzag satin stitching to patterns and double-needle top stitches I find it all amazing. Yes, I do volunteer to make these on my time and dime, 600 videos, but I am surely rewarded by my viewers. Happy sewing then, and thank you for the kind acknowledgment.
Dr. Andy I dont know if anyone has ever shared with you this but I used some makeup pointy cotton swabs to clean my 503A with because they don't shed lint like a regular cotton swab and the points get into tight spots. I also use disposable máscara wands as fine wire brushes to get to lint etc. Both are very reasonably priced and help to clean out lint and dirt from my other machines.
@@wandavanderveer5029 During the first year of the pandemic my viewership doubled. I did have a viewer mention the point swabs and said they came in cotton and a micro-foam. I totally forgot about that as I was responding to 50+ inquiries per day, so thanks for reminding me. I did not even know "mascara wands" were a thing 😳I'll look for some at the store. I usually just wash the whole machine with Krud Kutter Degreaser which gets in every nook & cranny, but with the black-finished models, I can't do that so I appreciate any tips for getting the crud out of the machines. Thank you. 🙏
I so respect your knowledge and willingness to share. Thank you. I recently cleaned up a 503a. The LED replacment light bulb I purchased locally was a little longer than the original bulb. The bulb did fit in the space but there was not enough swing room to install. I unscrewed the bulb holder and pulled it away from the machine a bit and could then easily seat the LED bulb. Screwed the bulb holder back on and problem solved. Might also work on 401 and similar models. Thought I would share to save others a trip to town to return the bulb.
That was a great solution to a somewhat common problem and I appreciate you sharing it in the comment section here. In my opinion, that LED bulb is certainly worth the effort. It makes such a difference that uses less electricity and it's much cooler. Congratulations on owning that rocket too. It's really a great machine and thanks for watching my channel
Very welcome, and congrats. It's a very nice model. Here are all my 503A videos in a playlist if you find any issues in the future. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX Happy sewing.
Thank you very much. About seven years ago, I sold one of these machines to a lady in a nearby city who told me she would be using it to make rope purses. A couple years later she brought her machine back because she had a problem with tension so I showed her how to clean it and reset it back to zero. She showed me some pictures of those purses and I have to say I really admire them. Good luck going forward and thanks so much for the wonderful comment
Hello Andy- thank you so very much for doing such a thorough video and sharing your knowledge. I have a 503A the I just took out the closet to use after may years. Your video has been wonderful for me learning a lot of things about the machine I never knew (but probably should). This was very much appreciated.
I'm glad you found my video then. I appreciate that you are thoughtful enough to do a nice cleaning and oiling before using the machine again. I'm happy you brought it out of "hibernation" and will be putting it back in service. 🙏 It's a very nice Model to sew on.
I’m just loving how emasculate you got this machine looking. I’m too much of a novice to remove some of these parts so it’s a lot of q tip cleaning for me. Wonderful job Andy!
Congratulations on your inheritance! It's a beautiful Rocketeer 503A Special. I'm glad you found this video. Stop by again if you get a chance. Thanks for the comment.
@@shellyjacob6037 I hope you like them. I had so much fun working on LaLa. It helped me understand why it is such a popular model. Like a little perfect machine that almost fits in your palm (compared)
THANK YOU!!! Yesterday I picked up a 503A at a yardsale. It was locked up and oil built up. I have a couple hours into it so far cleaning and oiling and it is running like a charm. No sewing yet but I know your kind sharing is going to be so helpful!!! I appreciate your sharing and so grateful for your generosity. Blessings to you kind Andy. Your detail is amazing.
You are welcome, Denise, and congratulations on finding such a nice model. I have a Playlist of videos for working on Model 503A if you find a few areas that need special attention, like the bobbin winder system, or maybe the Tension Unit. You can find the Playlist here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX On my Main Playlist Page you can find Playlists for cleaning and setting the foot controller, a Playlist for model 403A that has most of the same parts if you need to Zero Out the Camstack and other adjustments. The Main Playlist Page is here: ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists I can also recommend an easy, quick way to clean the motor commutator and rest the motor brushes which always improves motor speed & power. Here is that video: ruclips.net/video/pzq4tv8qn94/видео.html Welcome to Andy Tube Channel, and thank you for such a nice comment.
@@andytubesewing1953 THANK YOU eversomuch! I will be watching all your suggestions. I am creating a sewing space that will give me more light. I am grateful for your reply and if I didn't subscribe I will right now.
@@denisepettit8534 You are very welcome. Just thinking of your Rocketeer has my fingers itching to work on it, haha. I hope it is the first of a few lovely machines. You know where to find me with any questions. Take care.
Thank you for this comprehensive video. I inherited a Singer 500 and was able to clean, oil and grease the machine by following your video. Now the machine works great. Thank you, thank you!
I'm glad you found this video then, Scout. It's one of my better efforts. A truly unique and wonderful machine. Inherited machines are often the best, so a nice gift to you. I hope you enjoy it for many years to come. Thank you for watching my channel.
Welcome to Andy Tube Diane! A beast is right! Anything you want to craft at home you sure have a good machine for it. I hope you have many years of pleasure with it. On my playlist page, there are many series you may like in the future, like tension unit, motor and foot controller restoration and several adjustments. ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?disable_polymer=1 If you need some documentation, here are links to free copies of the original manuals for the 401A. Hope you visit again in the future. Instruction manual: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20401A%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf Parts diagram and list: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/4_4999/401A1.pdf Service and adjustments: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
It's interesting how they change different things through the years using the same parts, basically. I think it is so interesting how all the different models are slightly different or the same
I have considered doing that but was concerned the floss would leave wax behind on the discs and make the thread slippery. It's nice to know that floss can be used, and I'll bet it is really good at getting the lint down deep that has settled around the stud. Thanks for sharing this with my viewers, and for watching my channel.
Oh Andy!!!!! I need some help! I have a singer 6234 and the slide actuating lever assembly was sticking when I tried to put the slid back on. Well silly me I figured I would just take it off the clean it. But now I can’t figure out where and how the spring goes back in. Can you help me?
Your machine was made in Taiwan; I have never worked on those models. Luckily it is one of the few Taiwan models that you can buy & download the entire Service & Parts Manual and it is only $8.99. It covers adjusting, removing & replacing parts on the machine and detail parts diagrams with "exploded" views that usually show how the parts fit. manualsoncd.com/product/singer-6234-sewing-machine-service-parts-manual/ If you plan on keeping the machine I feel it is a good investment. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
I don't have a 513 available at this time, but I can send you a PDF of the original Singer Repair Manual if you email me at my RUclips channel: andytube53@gmail.com The 513 is one of the easiest models for setting the timing of the hook to needle. Loosen two screws on the gear below the hook, rotate the hook so the point is behind the needle which is at the timing mark height, then tighten the two screws back up. The manual is clear with written instructions and a couple of pictures.
I don't think I ever heard from you. If you like, watch this video about timing the 347. The principles are the same for timing the 513. The 347 is belt drive and the 513 is gears, but the settings are the same. ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=dW6haHu4-hU ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=w9KSRe6zcyo
Wow. That was an amazing video. Now I need some grease. I couldn't find the brand you used. There were so many additives you listed they should not contain. Is there some way to refer to the grease I can use, when I ask for it at the store? Thank you
You can find it online, and sometimes bicycle shops carry it, but you could try Super Lube Synthetic Grease with PTFE, and hardware stores should carry it www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-3-oz-Tube-Synthetic-Grease-with-Syncolon-PTFE-21030/202932687
@@andytubesewing1953 my (adult) son's have grease they use for their bicycles and it looks like green petroleum jelly. It's called Bell-Ray Waterproof Grease for automotive marine motorcycle. It reads Bell Ray waterproof grease provides maximum lubrication and corrosion protection for wheel bearings bushings bearings and all chassis lubrication points. Longer lasting lubrication maintains consistency & will not thin out, won't swell seals or O-rings, waterproof; will not wash out. So this is what I have right now but if this is not good I will buy something. Thank you again so much.
@@andytubesewing1953 I'll buy grease especially for the machine. I only asked because I don't understand all on the science behind the different compounds. I didn't mean to seen dismissive of your previous suggestion. Again, it's just that I don't understand the science. Sincerest apologies if I sounded disrespectful. That was not my intention at all.
@@bluetuber501 Don't take it wrong, Sheri. You did not seem dismissive and I'm not offended. 👍I recommend the Tr-Flow Clear Synthetic Grease based on the recommendation of over 1 dozen professional VSM restorers, thr3 of whom were retired Singer Repairmen. It's literally the only grease I've used for close to 15 years. I know it works well and my wife's machines show no wear on the steel gearing all that time. I brush the grease off at least once per year and add new and the gears on her most used machine look as new as the ones in this video. In today's dollars, your machine cost about $3,000 when new. The TriFlow costs about $14 at Amazon and a 3oz tube will last you a 20 years minimum if used on your machine. It seems incredibly cheap to me, especially after the work you put into it. So no worries here, OK? Just enjoy that wonderful machine. 😀
Hi Andy, THANK you for sharing your knowledge!.. My Singer 503 has many chips on the hand wheel and I was thinking about painting it... Do you have a video on the removal??...
Welcome to Andy Tube Susan. Here are links to the removal/replacement of the handwheel on model 404. (No need to remove the counter-balance) Although the shape of the 503 handwheel is different, the methods are the same to remove it. ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=eZiMaaka5HE ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=hHl96WL1kzA Thanks for watching Andy Tube and good luck.
Hi Andy, Thank you for sharing all your information with us. I have The Singer Model 503A. My problem is the Bobin thread, there’s all this thread sticking up on the fabric. The top is sewing correctly but underneath looks terrible. I did what the book said to do for bobin tension. I’m noticing that when I’m sewing I hear a click when the needle is sewing and that’s when my thread starts to get crazy underneath. What can I do? Thanks Andy. I hope you’re doing well and stay safe, Virgie
Tangles on the bottom are usually the needle thread being pulled down from the top. That happens when the upper tension is too light, or the bobbin tension is too heavy. The key being "usually". I have videos for the upper tension unit and a video for cleaning and adjusting the class 66 bobbin like you have, BUT... recently an Andy Tube viewer spent weeks on this same problem and painstakingly went thru just about every adjustment in the service manual to no avail. He finally narrowed his problem down to the "delint" pin on the hook positioning finger. He removed that pin because he felt the thread was catching on it (which bent the needle.. click click) and caused big tangles on the underside of the fabric. After her removed that pin the problem was gone. Totally gone! I asked him to make a video and he was kind enough to do so. Maybe you could watch his video and see if you think you may have the same problem? ruclips.net/video/19UA-7Rj8S0/видео.html I also have a 2-part video fro removing the hook and positioning finger if you need help with that: Part 1: ruclips.net/video/T4YPB1KK3_Q/видео.html Part 2: ruclips.net/video/1GmJTGKE0aY/видео.html of course I can't diagnose the problem over the internet, but only suggestions based on what I and others have found. If you need help later finding videos for tension and bobbin tension let me know and good luck.
Ok. Need help. Have watched lots of your videos including this one multiple times. Also cleaning out lint and junk. Machine is breaking top thread. Can't figure out why. About 3weeks ago did the same thing then I had lots of trouble finding the problem. Pea size bunch of lint I got out from the bottom. Then she took off and I sewed about 4 days. Made dozen or more string blocks and a placemat. On 4th side of sewing border it all of a sudden started breaking thread just as before. Rethteaded, changed bobbin, changed needles all multiple times. Frustrated. Today watched this video step by step. Oiled and lubed. Still breaking thread.
I've always found breaking thread to be one of the most annoying problems on a machine. There are so many possible causes plus a couple of extra ones on a Singer 503A. If you still have the problem you can contact me and together maybe we can find the cause once and for all. andymanuals53@gmail.com
Hi Andy, just spent the afternoon working on a 503a and she is back running. The problem I have is that the lever to move the needle left, center and right moves freely but doesn't move the needle bar with out some assistance. Any advice?
Don't change the position when the needle is in the fabric. Be sure the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket is lubricated. With the cover off push the position selector in, hold it in, and rapidly move it up and down. Now move it slowly up and down and see which parts are connected behind the lever and what is moving. Be sure those parts are not loose or need lubrication. If the position selecting lever pushes in & moves up and down easily then it is usually at the needle bar end that prevents easy swing of the needle, so I start with the Vibrating Bracket and the Needle Bar Connecting Link for oiling and cleaning if needed. Here is the full Playlist for model 503A that includes the parts I mentioned. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX You can also download a free copy of the Service Manual for your machine at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
Andy I like that long handle lint brush you use. Where can I find a quality lint brush like it? All I find are short and cheaply made. Yours looks like vintage when things were made well.
Wow...what a thorough video! I loved the close ups...takes the intimidation factor out of the oiling and greasing! I just come into possession of a beautiful 500e that looks in quite good shape...the only thing is there is some “crud” around some metal areas on the exterior body and a wee bit of dirt on the machine. What would you recommend to spruce it up without damaging the paint finish? Thank you and best wishes!
Welcome to Andy Tube, Kellie, and congrats on your "new" 500A Rocketeer. If you just want to "spruce it up", then alcohol can be used on any part of the machine, inside or outside, without harm. Cotton swabs, rags, toothbrushes, etc. If you want/need to repair/adjust or deeply clean it, here are a couple of playlists of my videos that can help with that. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX If you did not receive a copy of the Instruction Manual with your machine, you can still download a free PDF copy of the original from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=500 It's 50 pages and covers all the operations, and basic cleaning and lubrication. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Wonderful video! Thank you! I learned on my mom's new 500A when I was 6 (now you know my age), and sewed on it until I left for college. I now have a 503A (without the user manual) and feel right back at home. (My mom still uses hers!) My newly acquired machine runs great, with one exception that I cannot figure out. The needle position selector moves well, but will not go to the left position. Something is definitely hard-stopping it. Advice?
That selector moves the needle bar driving arm and in turn the needle bar vibrating bracket. If those parts a not moving the needle bar to the left they could be dirty, lacking oil, maladjusted, or have missing/loose screw(s). It's impossible to know the history of the machine and how it was, or was not, serviced. Let's start with a free copy of the Instruction Manual from Singer: www.singer.com/search/support?title=403 Next, you can download a free copy of the Service Manual by scrolling down this page to the manual for the 500A which has a section for the 503A: sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/ Service Manuals cover almost every part of the machine as far as adjusting, removing, and replacing. Here are my other 20 videos for your model 503A that show how to do some of those adjustments: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX also keep in mind my 26 videos for model 403A. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg Except for the bobbin winder systems, the mechanics on the two models is the same. If I did not cover it in a 503A video I made have shown it in a 403A video. If the machine was on my bench I'd take off the nose and top covers and move the NB position bracket to see what parts move and where and how far. If it comes to a hard stop you can still see the direction the part was moving and maybe determine what stopped it. I prefer the 403A/503A models over the 401A/500A models but they are all wonderful machines. Good luck, Melodie, and congrats on your "New" 403A, the Queen of Singer ZZ Machines.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you, Andy! You are very generous with your time and advice. So appreciated! Thank you, too, for the download! I am already subscribed to your RUclips Channel and have watched a couple of other videos already. I will get to them all, as I find them EXTREMELY helpful! Keep on keepin' on!
Hi Andy, I am a big fan of your very informative videos on sewing machine repair, I fixed 2 machines for my mom - replaced the vertical nylon gear on 2 machines. My neighbor let me tune up her 503a, I got everything working, but can't figure out how to close the top cover plate, the 2 flip bobbin post seems to have too much tension on the spring, forces the door back up. It there a missing spring on the door to keep it down?
There could be a missing spring, or loose spring. Here are what the two springs look like: www.bonanza.com/items/like/138466735/Singer-Rocketeer-500A-Arm-Cover-Door-172508-w-Door-Hinges-Screws They connect to and hold the top "flap" onto the arm cover. The attach to the bottom of the arm cover and clip onto the flap. The original springs for the flip-up spool pins did not seem to be that strong so I'm surprised when you said the flip open the flap. Here are the original springs/pins for you to compare yours too if you want www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-Sewing-Machine-Fold-Down-Spool-Pins-Springs-Fits-500-500A-503-503A/360416374234?hash=item53ea7d6dda:g:md8AAOSwyltZVlDr thanks for watching my channel, Herman and I hope that helps.
@@HemanLee Oh, man. I guess they are not the originals then? If the door springs are in place properly there is no way those spool pin springs should be able to lift that door. Sounds like you may need to find some of the original springs. www.sewingpartsonline.com/spool-pin-spring-singer-500-sewing-machine.aspx
@@andytubesewing1953After research, the hinge retainer on the left also has a 2nd part the hold the lid in 2 position, that part is broken off. I only know this because I found a 2nd 503a to compare against. That part is really hard to find. I had to jury rig some with sheet metal.
I've never used either of those products, but have heard a magic sponge can damage the finish. If I just want to clean the exterior I use dish soap. About a half gallon of warm sudsy dish soap and a cotton washcloth. I follow up wiping it down with a fresh cloth of clear water and then dry the machine. I'm sensitive to the smell and usually find it has been sucked into the interior of the machine by the small motor fan. I usually wash the whole machine with a light Solution of Krud Kutter Cleaner and Degreaser. I've restored many Vintage Singer machines that way. It shocks people to see me put the machine in a tub and give it a shower with a hose, but it's the best way I have found to get decades of gunk and odors off and out of the machine. I remove a few parts before washing. If you have any interest in that method here is just one of my many washing videos: ruclips.net/video/kXZHksK7rGQ/видео.html If all you need is the exterior cleaned please just try the dish soap. You could always follow up with something stronger if needed. Dawn dish soap is great, but almost any brand will do. Thanks for watching my channel.
Very informative. I just bought a Singer 503j. I was following your service/maintenance video, and I noticed that the drive gear (fiber or whatever it is), is loose on the shaft and moved back and forth about 3/16". Is this normal? Also, I noticed that the return springs for the bobbin wind mechanism are out of place, presumably from previous service. Is there information I can access to correct these concerns? Thanks.
There are spings in the handwheel so it helps prevent "shocking starts/stops" on the wheel. You can download a free copy of the service manual for the machine at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf. Page 18 has a nice "exploded" diagram of the handwheel parts. I've never found a broken spring in one, but I have emails from people who did. The bobbin winder springs are world-famous for breaking. They can be replaced. You can find new springs for replacement online and page 17 of that manual has directions for removing/replacing them. This video you commented on is from a playlist of 20 videos I made about working on model 503A, including the bobbin winder system and replacing those springs if you prefer videos to the manual or to supplement the written directions. Here is that playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX Here is a playlist for model 403A, the same mechanics for the most part: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg On my main playlist page you can find other videos for working on the motor and working on the foot controller of this type of slant needle machine. ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public Once you get things squared away you may like to have a little fun with a diamond stone brush seater and really speed up that motor. ruclips.net/video/pzq4tv8qn94/видео.html The 503 model is a popular model and I hope you will enjoy it. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 I appreciate your prompt reply. It's so hard to find good help it seems. Your videos are very helpful! Minutes after I sent the questions, I decided I'd take a look for myself. I found that the gear had been installed backwards, not allowing enough room for the snap ring that is there to hold the gear into position. Eventually, it walked its way down the shaft and the gears were only partially meshed. Fortunately, there was no damage to the fiber gear; that I find surprising. I removed the gear, cleaned it and reassembled everything. The dampening spring is fine, too. Applied some Singer lubrication, and we were off to the races! The one bobbin kick-out spring is broken, missing one of the ends. The other spring was out of position, but ok. I was able to get the bobbin function to work, just the same. The information in your videos is valuable. Thank you.
Andy I've been trying to find something to help me unfreeze my Singer 503A handwheel. I can turn the rod the handwheel goes on, but once I put on the gold handwheel it will not turn. I have tried every position possible, but it won't turn. Any suggestions?
@@andytubesewing1953 I don't have a controller for it yet. I'm trying to figure out if I should stick more $ in it or just sell parts. I'd like to get it working because it has all the parts and looks really good; a unique SM.
Hi Andy, curious - you show what type of grease your are using but not the oil ... can you reply with the name of the tri-flow oil you are using. Great video!
It's a long video, isn't it? I show and name the oil at 15:33. TRI-FLOW® SUPERIOR LUBRICANT DRIP BOTTLE Here is the manufacturers web page: www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-lubricant-drip-bottle/
Great question! I pick off any loose stuff like lint or threads and get them wet. I use a drop or two of laundry detergent on it then gently squeeze it around in a circle a couple of times before rinsing the soap out. Press them in a towel or paper towel to get the excess water out and let them air dry. They turn out nice and fresh and "puff up" like new. Thanks so much for asking and for watching my channel.
I know it's been 6 years, but maybe someone in the comments can answer. I accidentally took off the sliding bobbin cover. Unlike the 400 series which are easy to put back on, I cannot figure out how to get it back on without taking everything apart. Can someone help?
Andy, I disassembled and cleaned the tension mechanism. I've also done a general service (oil/grease). I've started to use the machine a little more, and after a while, I noticed it was bunching underneath (nesting?). Also, the upper thread was occasionally fraying. I'm using heavy thread, and sewing boat canvas - all new material. There's some numbers on the thread spool, one that is legible is 6825. This thread seems prone to twisting up. I've tried bypassing the threading slack mechanism you mentioned in a video, and it seems to have helped. Before I tried this, the tensioner seemed to behave inconsistently. I think the thread may have been partially fraying and catching in the tension disks. Occasionally the thread would break, and this is tough stuff! Regardless, the machine seems a bit happier with that slack mechanism bypassed. Do you have any thoughts on this? Have you or anyone you've spoke with used one of these 503J machines to do this type of work? I find it's very smooth, and has plenty of power for the heavy fabric. I appreciate your time and help.
I can't say what the numbers on the thread mean, maybe the color number for all I know! looping is often caused by tension imbalance. Under looping can mean the bobbin tension is stronger than the needle tension. I have a fellow who bought a 403a for sewing canvas and duck cloth and said it performed really well. He used polyester thread is all he said. Maybe number 80? Personally, I've never had thread get shredded going through or in the tension assembly. I've had plenty of cases where the needle thread was shredded going through the eye of the needle. I'd recommend a top stitch style of a needle. The tension of both the tension assembly AND the bobbin may need adjustment to accommodate a much heavier thread. I have a video about how I try adjusting a class 66 bobbin case if you want to take a look at it. The tension setting on your 503 may need to be adjusted. ruclips.net/video/bhcsfhaBRDo/видео.html I've been hearing lately about serious thread twisting. I've never encountered that, but the only sewing I do is when testing a machine after restoration. I do know that on many spools the thread is wound in what I'd call a "crossing pattern". ( I don't know the technical name) on taller smaller diameter spools and "cones" versus the older style of "reel" winding. On the reel style, the thread is meant to come off the spool sideways (like a fishing reel) while the spool is standing up on your spool. On other spools, I believe the spool is supposed to be on a horizontal spool and pulled off the end of the spool. On that type, and cones, if they are sitting on the spool pin of your 503 and the thread is pulling off the side I think that could really put some twisting into the thread. My wife buys thread in 5,000-foot cones but has a stand that holds the cone with an arm and loop at the top so the thread unwinds off the top of the spool, ( same as saying off the end of the spool) like on a serger or industrial sewing machine. Here are some articles about tension, needles, and thread at the Superior Thread website that you may find interesting. Their business is thread and I think they explain it better than I can. www.superiorthreads.com/education/balancing-top-and-bottom-tension www.superiorthreads.com/education/matching-bobbin-thread www.superiorthreads.com/education/thread-twist-explained They claim 50% of the cause of thread breaking is cheap/bad thread and 20% to the needle and 20% to unbalanced tension. In your case maybe the tension and needle are causing most of it. I don't know about your thread. Superior also is an advocate of using a top-stitch needle (they make some) for better stitching.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for your response. An update: I found that the thread fraying seemed to occur after I had switched the needle position to the right. That led to thread "fuzz" creating tensioner problems. I cleaned the tensioner, and the bobbin holder. I centered the needle setting, and retested. The problem seems to have gone away. Is it possible that the needle position affected the machine's ability to pick up the thread in the bobbin area? The snags and frays seems to happen in that area, when the problem was happening.
Usually if the timing is correct (hook to needle point) there is no problem with skipped stitches or thread shred by using the L or R needle position unless the needle is NOT centered in the needle plate (needle in center when adjusting the needle bar to center it) and you get the needle scraping on the needle plate hole. When sewing ZZ be sure to use lower needle thread tension setting. When sewing primary or special patterns some can only be set to width 4 maximum. It is possible that the eye of the needle is too small for the thread size you are using. That causes fuzzing and shredding of the needle thread as it passes through the eye and it gets worse with left or right or zz stitching. If using heavier thread I think a top-stitch needle would be worth it.
****PLEASE start by being sure the cord is completely plugged in. Sometimes it is a tight fit.**** There is no on/off switch, so pressing the pedal should make it go. Do you hear it trying to run, like the motor groans or hums? If your machine was in storage for a long time it can be "seized" and need to be serviced by oiling, etc. If you want to troubleshoot it a little then first turn on the light to see if electricity is getting thru the plug and into the wires. If the light comes on then try releasing the stop motion knob on the handwheel to disengage everything but the handwheel. (If you don't know how to do that, see page 10 of the instruction manual www.singer.com/search/support?title=503) With the knob turned try to just turn the handwheel. If it turns you know the handwheel and motor are not seized. Try pressing the pedal now to see if the motor/handwheel works now. If not try plugging the cord in all the way. Be sure your electric outlet works. If the motor still won't work the cord may be bad or the pedal may be bad (very rare for the pedal) If the motor works now then the parts of the machine are seized up. If so, then oil the machine as shown on pages 89-91. Use sewing machine oil and skip the grease for now. Heating the parts with a hairdryer can soften up old oil, let the new oil in, and get things moving.
@@hotdog5966 It's a wonderful machine. I have some other videos for it and for model 403A which has the same parts inside. The videos include about the wiring, motor, handwheel, etc. There are two playlists, the 503A playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX and the 403A playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg If your problem is not a simple fix and you want to delve deeper into the machine my videos may help. They are mostly tutorial-style and easy to follow. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Andy I have truble get thumb nut off. How do I get off . I have 500 a rockette a lady suggested you and that you now how fix issues I try find new wire and plug cord. Knee peddle singer rockette I got 7yr ago it my grate grandmother. It been set for 40yr.
Welcome to AndyTube, Brittnie. Congratulations on getting a500A Rocketeer. The thumb nut on the tension can get stuck parts. I made a video to show how you can get it off ruclips.net/video/woJraVBSWcI/видео.html Many places sell new cord sets for model 500A. Here is just one example www.ebay.com/itm/291055557783 If you want to use the knee lever in a cabinet for the foot pedal you can find used foot pedals on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/203997724833?hash=item2f7f3640a1:g:fTkAAOSwyB1irNNc If you have the pedal and want to restore/rehab it I have a series of videos on how to do that. It will also show you how the cord connects inside ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71 Thank you for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 . So diel on the front is stuck but able push in. I do not like foot peddle. In less it tradle. I want keep in way the machine is but I scard one cable. Because I bending.it could bracket. It with it mother in the cabnet it for knee. Peddle and cord plug in in attch on the side of the machine.. I try different things I done top. What see oil spot. But . Bottom. Is it a Maine that is run loud or is it run and be quit machine.. it was my grandmother mom's machine . What is different 400. 300 500 . A rockette. When were they stop being made. Was start 1950. 1970... my Hass all tools stool and manual. As if just walk out of a store. I had replaced bobbin. And needle . As 1 bobbin. Any suggestions what way get dirt out Bottom .. look info you suggested .
@@brittniesmith8201 The foot pedal slides into a metal bracket in the cabinet. You can force it out by sliding it. Here are 16 videos showing different ways that I have cleaned sewing machines: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKK8O1UvRsU-eNo2G2yX3f2G
I've got my mom's 401a sewing cabinet (machine is gone) and a 503a portable sewing machine. Is it possible to install that machine in the sewing cabinet? I don't have the things that attach the 2 of them to each other but I think I do see 2 places on the back of the machine that the attachment could be made! I've measured both, and the cabinet opening and the machine base are a match at 16.5" x 7". Thank you for any help! I neglected my machine for so many years and am now trying to get it up and running!
It sounds like a fit! Are the hinges still attached to the cabinet? Hinges look like these: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xsinger+cabinet+hinges.TRS0&_nkw=singer+cabinet+hinges&_sacat=0 Those two holes on the back of your machine are made to slide onto the "pins" of the cabinet hinges. On your machine, each hole should have a small screw on the bottom of it to tighten against the hinge pin. I think the machines are similar in height, so the 503A should fold down into the cabinet for storage. If you don't want to fold it down for storage you can just set the machine into the cut-out. If you want to fold down the machine into the cabinet for normal storage, measure your cut-out of the cabinet from the front of the cut-out to the first hinge pin, compare it to the distance from the front edge of your 503A to that first hole on the back. The best way to mount the machine onto the pins is to use a large rubber band around the hinge pins to hold them pointing straight up toward the ceiling. Slide the machine holes onto the pins and tighten the screws. Cut the rubber band away if you like. Good luck, Lisa.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much! I'll let you see the finished product. I ordered those hinge pins yesterday and am so excited to get this project I've been putting off for 3 years done, finally! Your video on how to service the machine was absolutely crucial for getting the machine back to running order! Thank you again! Lisa
Andy Tube I got it finished but I can’t figure out how to send you a picture!!! It looks awesome and fits like a dream!!!! Thank you again for all your help! Once things calm down, I’m going to have it professionally serviced but it’s definitely up and running now!
Hi, Freddy. e gusta usar Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter/ pero puede usar alcohol, queroseno, solvente para limpieza de armas y productos por el estilo. NO use nada que contenga aceite o la grasa nueva no se adherirá a los engranajes. Me gusta cepillar los engranajes en seco primero con un cepillo de dientes viejo o un cepillo de alambre. Eliminar la grasa vieja de esa manera permite que los líquidos limpien mejor los engranajes de acero. Después de cepillarme utilizo los líquidos y lo limpio con trapos o uso un secador de pelo antes de agregar la grasa. Gracias por ver mi canal y buena suerte.
I have the same problem. The machine had an excessive amount of grease applied that had hardened. I cleaned everything. However the hand wheel will not budge. I cannot loosen it to disengage the needle bar for the bobbin winding. (Thank you for all your videos! I have restored several machines for family members. Also, I am sorry to hear about your health problems.)
@@caroleehornbuckle6855 I had a very stubborn handwheel on a 500A and what worked, in the end, was removing the little stop screw completely and spraying WD40 inside the hole then heating for several minutes with a hairdryer. I still could not budge it until my wife held the wheel while I turned the stop motion knob. Finally. We both wore leather gloves b/c the wheel/knob was hot.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for the quick response! I tried the hair dryer with no success. My next move, I was going to lay the machine on its side and spray WD40 between the wheels….spraying inside the screw holes sounds like a better idea! Again I want to thank you for your numerous videos. I found a Singer 66 in a leaky shed on the ranch. The throat plate was missing, it was extremely dirty and rusty. I took it all apart and completely restored the machine by watching your videos. There was some pitting from the rust. I replaced those parts. I thought I had the timing off, so I drove to closest sewing technician (very few in Wyoming). The technician said the timing was perfect, I just threaded the needle wrong. Anyway, my problem now is…I am obsessed with old sewing machine restoration!
@@caroleehornbuckle6855 Yes, spray between the wheel too! It can take some time to loosen up so be patient. I have often sprayed, heated, waited an hour or two, and repeated all day. The 66 sounds great. To justify my own obsession with the VSMs I have given many to charities. women's shelters, church sewing groups, charity auctions, senior centers, etc. If you start getting too many of them you can try that. I did sell some to get money to buy more, of course. It's like a self-paying hobby.
You are a God Sent!
All my sewing machines stopped working during the pandemic, then, I found your video of a machine I've owned for nearly 20 years, but no repair guy wanted to touch: yes, the one in this video. I watched, I ordered the recommended products, then I watched again, paused the video, and followed your detailed instructions. 3 hours later, my machine purrs like a kitten and is back to showing those beautiful stitches I missed seeing for so long. Thank you, thank you, thank you! And thank you for also having a video of the vintage buttonholer, which I want to learn to use soon.
I'm glad you found the video, and thank you for rescuing that wonderful machine. BTW, you did it properly by watching once first and then again as you followed along. I know you'd enjoy the buttonholer. It takes some practice but once you get familiar with it the buttonholes you can make are impressive. The "hand work" (also called Purl-Edge) style is unique, IMO. Thanks for taking the time to comment, and happy sewing.
I just bought this machine today and your tutorial is everything I need. Super clear instruction, thank you very much.
Congratulations on your new Rocketeer! Happy for you. If it did not come with the manual you can download a copy for free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 There is a known weakness with the bobbin winder spring, and sometimes the tension needs cleaning and/or adjusting. If you do find issues I have several more videos for it in a playlist you can find here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX Hope you enjoy it and thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you for the manual link. I’ve purchased mine today, local to my area. I’m downloading this for free thanks to you.
Thank you so much for your video. These step by step instructions helped me fix my machine! Thank you!!!!
I'm glad you found the video, Jill Thank you for keeping your machine in service, and for watching my channel. Here are 20 more videos for this model 503A if you find any other issues. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX
Happy sewing.
Thank you soooo much! You are a phenomenal teacher! I am learning so much!
Such a nice comment, Robynne 🙏 Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you so much for volunteering your time to teach your wisdom. I just received a 503A as a gift and this video was a great help. I really appreciate the help you’ve provided me and the sewing community.
i appreciate the graceful recognition. It's very kind of you to take time and let me know. Happy sewing.
My machine has always made a humming sound when I start a seam. I've greased and oiled the machine per Andy Tube, gone through the motor, new bearings and brushes, still the same. I let the machine sit for a while before my next project so I oiled it again even though there was still plenty of oil. I noticed that the zig zag mechanism was actuated even if the lever was set to straight. So I pulled the zig zag cam off and tried the machine. No hum and everything started moving much freer and easier. Leave your zig zag cam off unless you know you're going to use the zig zag feature. Thanks Andy Tube.
I'm glad you found a workaround for the problem, Ralph. I appreciate you sharing it. I pinned your comment to the top of the comment section. When the machine sews a "wavery" stitch while set to the straight mode it's a sign some parts are dirty or out of adjustment. When a pattern cam is in place and the lever is moved to a width setting a mechanical follower is moved against the cam. As the follower tracks the undulations of the cam, associated parts move the Needle Bar Driving Arm to push on the Vibrating Bracket that holds the Needle Bar. That makes the Needle Bar swing back and forth. Swing Needle was an early name for ZigZag machines. I have videos of those parts if anyone is interested. Folks can also go to the Sewing Dude's website manuals page and get free copies of the 401A, 403A, 404, 500A, and 503A Service Manuals which show all the adjustments and remove/replacement parts instructions. Thank you again, Ralph, and happy quiet sewing.
Wow, what a thorough tutorial on cleaning, oiling and greasing a vintage Singer. I received a 500A today and I followed your instructions before even attempting to sew on it. Thank you so much, Andy!
Somehow I missed this comment until now. A busy week I guess. But you have your 403A on the way, right? You will soon be an old hand at this.
I just want to say Thank You for creating such in depth videos that are easy to watch and learn from. I just got my first 503A and although she runs I am cleaning the dust bunnies out and ready to grease ans oil her per your clear instructions. She is gonna have a second life with me cuz I'm just a year older than her and I'm having mine. Once again I want to thank you Dr. Andy for your generosity to teaching the sewing community how to care for our machines 💜
I have a deal with folks like you, Wanda. I help you fix and maintain your machines and you use them to create beautiful things. It sure works for me. I don't sew at all so I am fascinated by the creative crafting people do with a wonderful machine like your Rocketeer 503A. From fine straight stitching to zigzag satin stitching to patterns and double-needle top stitches I find it all amazing. Yes, I do volunteer to make these on my time and dime, 600 videos, but I am surely rewarded by my viewers. Happy sewing then, and thank you for the kind acknowledgment.
Dr. Andy I dont know if anyone has ever shared with you this but I used some makeup pointy cotton swabs to clean my 503A with because they don't shed lint like a regular cotton swab and the points get into tight spots. I also use disposable máscara wands as fine wire brushes to get to lint etc. Both are very reasonably priced and help to clean out lint and dirt from my other machines.
@@wandavanderveer5029 During the first year of the pandemic my viewership doubled. I did have a viewer mention the point swabs and said they came in cotton and a micro-foam. I totally forgot about that as I was responding to 50+ inquiries per day, so thanks for reminding me. I did not even know "mascara wands" were a thing 😳I'll look for some at the store. I usually just wash the whole machine with Krud Kutter Degreaser which gets in every nook & cranny, but with the black-finished models, I can't do that so I appreciate any tips for getting the crud out of the machines. Thank you. 🙏
I so respect your knowledge and willingness to share. Thank you. I recently cleaned up a 503a. The LED replacment light bulb I purchased locally was a little longer than the original bulb. The bulb did fit in the space but there was not enough swing room to install. I unscrewed the bulb holder and pulled it away from the machine a bit and could then easily seat the LED bulb. Screwed the bulb holder back on and problem solved. Might also work on 401 and similar models. Thought I would share to save others a trip to town to return the bulb.
That was a great solution to a somewhat common problem and I appreciate you sharing it in the comment section here. In my opinion, that LED bulb is certainly worth the effort. It makes such a difference that uses less electricity and it's much cooler. Congratulations on owning that rocket too. It's really a great machine and thanks for watching my channel
Thanks. I follows your advice step by step. Thank you.
Yes and thank you for the kind comment. I appreciate you keeping your machine and service. It's a beautiful model. Happy sewing
Hi Andy, as always a good video. That was a great tip about how to fix the whining on the machine by placing grease on that Teflon gear. Thanks
Thank you very much, Dorothy.
Perfect!! This helped me a lot! I just purchased a 503A and I needed this! Thank you so much.
Very welcome, and congrats. It's a very nice model. Here are all my 503A videos in a playlist if you find any issues in the future.
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX Happy sewing.
Oh my gosh this is just what my 503A needed. Thank you the excellent tutorial. Now on to making rope bowls. The perfect machine!
Thank you very much. About seven years ago, I sold one of these machines to a lady in a nearby city who told me she would be using it to make rope purses. A couple years later she brought her machine back because she had a problem with tension so I showed her how to clean it and reset it back to zero. She showed me some pictures of those purses and I have to say I really admire them. Good luck going forward and thanks so much for the wonderful comment
Hello Andy- thank you so very much for doing such a thorough video and sharing your knowledge. I have a 503A the I just took out the closet to use after may years. Your video has been wonderful for me learning a lot of things about the machine I never knew (but probably should). This was very much appreciated.
I'm glad you found my video then. I appreciate that you are thoughtful enough to do a nice cleaning and oiling before using the machine again. I'm happy you brought it out of "hibernation" and will be putting it back in service. 🙏 It's a very nice Model to sew on.
I’m just loving how emasculate you got this machine looking. I’m too much of a novice to remove some of these parts so it’s a lot of q tip cleaning for me. Wonderful job Andy!
You might be surprised in the future, but no worries. Any cleaning is good for the machine. Put on your favorite music and have a good time with it.
Absolutely I will! And I really do know how to spell immaculate, sheesh lol
@@rhondamercado7527 No worries. I figured it was just an errant autocorrection.
Thank You Andy your quick reply was much appreciated and I will look at all the video’s. I have enjoyed your video’s I have seen. Enjoy your weekend.
No worries
I recently inherited a Model 503A and was lost for how to maintain it. This video is fantastic! Thank you.
Congratulations on your inheritance! It's a beautiful Rocketeer 503A Special. I'm glad you found this video. Stop by again if you get a chance. Thanks for the comment.
Very informative maintenance info for this machine. Thank you!
Thank you for watching my channel Shelly
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank YOU for your wonderful videos. My next videos to watch will be your Featherweight series.
@@shellyjacob6037 I hope you like them. I had so much fun working on LaLa. It helped me understand why it is such a popular model. Like a little perfect machine that almost fits in your palm (compared)
THANK YOU!!! Yesterday I picked up a 503A at a yardsale. It was locked up and oil built up. I have a couple hours into it so far cleaning and oiling and it is running like a charm. No sewing yet but I know your kind sharing is going to be so helpful!!! I appreciate your sharing and so grateful for your generosity. Blessings to you kind Andy. Your detail is amazing.
You are welcome, Denise, and congratulations on finding such a nice model. I have a Playlist of videos for working on Model 503A if you find a few areas that need special attention, like the bobbin winder system, or maybe the Tension Unit. You can find the Playlist here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX On my Main Playlist Page you can find Playlists for cleaning and setting the foot controller, a Playlist for model 403A that has most of the same parts if you need to Zero Out the Camstack and other adjustments. The Main Playlist Page is here: ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists I can also recommend an easy, quick way to clean the motor commutator and rest the motor brushes which always improves motor speed & power. Here is that video: ruclips.net/video/pzq4tv8qn94/видео.html Welcome to Andy Tube Channel, and thank you for such a nice comment.
@@andytubesewing1953 THANK YOU eversomuch! I will be watching all your suggestions. I am creating a sewing space that will give me more light. I am grateful for your reply and if I didn't subscribe I will right now.
@@denisepettit8534 You are very welcome. Just thinking of your Rocketeer has my fingers itching to work on it, haha. I hope it is the first of a few lovely machines. You know where to find me with any questions. Take care.
Thank you for this comprehensive video. I inherited a Singer 500 and was able to clean, oil and grease the machine by following your video. Now the machine works great. Thank you, thank you!
I'm glad you found this video then, Scout. It's one of my better efforts. A truly unique and wonderful machine. Inherited machines are often the best, so a nice gift to you. I hope you enjoy it for many years to come. Thank you for watching my channel.
This video will be a very useful reference for those new to vintage machines! Thank you, Andy!
Thank you. Trying to encourage people to check out the Vintage Singers. Hopefully showing that maintenance is not that hard to do. Stay warm :)
Just got a new to me 401A and just did an awesome cleaning by following this video and this baby is now a beast. Love you! Thanks so much.
Welcome to Andy Tube Diane! A beast is right! Anything you want to craft at home you sure have a good machine for it. I hope you have many years of pleasure with it. On my playlist page, there are many series you may like in the future, like tension unit, motor and foot controller restoration and several adjustments.
ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?disable_polymer=1
If you need some documentation, here are links to free copies of the original manuals for the 401A.
Hope you visit again in the future.
Instruction manual: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20401A%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf
Parts diagram and list:
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/4_4999/401A1.pdf
Service and adjustments:
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
It's interesting how they change different things through the years using the same parts, basically. I think it is so interesting how all the different models are slightly different or the same
Hi Andy, Thank you so much, that really helped both in the cleaning and the getting to know the machine!!👍🏻
Hey, I never thought of that. 😊 It is kind of a tour of the machine, too. I appreciate the comment, Jennifer.✨
Thank you for the informative video. I love my rocketeer machine. Thank you
I'm glad you found the video, Rose. Thanks for watching and commenting on my channel.
Yes same appolo Bobbin case
I think they are reliable setup.
No sabe cuanto le agradezco su informacion me sirvio muchisimo saludos de Guatemala
tu comentario ayuda a justificar el tiempo que dediqué a mis videos. Muchas gracias.🙏
I've also used waxed dental floss to clean between the tensions disks, seems to work well .
I have considered doing that but was concerned the floss would leave wax behind on the discs and make the thread slippery. It's nice to know that floss can be used, and I'll bet it is really good at getting the lint down deep that has settled around the stud. Thanks for sharing this with my viewers, and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes, as long as you're not aggressive with it, it should be ok.
@@alp-1960 copy that!
Oh Andy!!!!! I need some help! I have a singer 6234 and the slide actuating lever assembly was sticking when I tried to put the slid back on. Well silly me I figured I would just take it off the clean it. But now I can’t figure out where and how the spring goes back in. Can you help me?
Your machine was made in Taiwan; I have never worked on those models. Luckily it is one of the few Taiwan models that you can buy & download the entire Service & Parts Manual and it is only $8.99. It covers adjusting, removing & replacing parts on the machine and detail parts diagrams with "exploded" views that usually show how the parts fit.
manualsoncd.com/product/singer-6234-sewing-machine-service-parts-manual/ If you plan on keeping the machine I feel it is a good investment.
Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
Hi Andy I was wondering if you can
do a video about how to check and set the timing on the singer 513 if you haven't already 😌😌😊😊
I don't have a 513 available at this time, but I can send you a PDF of the original Singer Repair Manual if you email me at my RUclips channel: andytube53@gmail.com
The 513 is one of the easiest models for setting the timing of the hook to needle. Loosen two screws on the gear below the hook, rotate the hook so the point is behind the needle which is at the timing mark height, then tighten the two screws back up. The manual is clear with written instructions and a couple of pictures.
I don't think I ever heard from you. If you like, watch this video about timing the 347. The principles are the same for timing the 513. The 347 is belt drive and the 513 is gears, but the settings are the same.
ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=dW6haHu4-hU
ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=w9KSRe6zcyo
Wow. That was an amazing video. Now I need some grease. I couldn't find the brand you used. There were so many additives you listed they should not contain. Is there some way to refer to the grease I can use, when I ask for it at the store? Thank you
You can find it online, and sometimes bicycle shops carry it, but you could try Super Lube Synthetic Grease with PTFE, and hardware stores should carry it www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-3-oz-Tube-Synthetic-Grease-with-Syncolon-PTFE-21030/202932687
@@andytubesewing1953 my (adult) son's have grease they use for their bicycles and it looks like green petroleum jelly. It's called Bell-Ray Waterproof Grease for automotive marine motorcycle. It reads Bell Ray waterproof grease provides maximum lubrication and corrosion protection for wheel bearings bushings bearings and all chassis lubrication points. Longer lasting lubrication maintains consistency & will not thin out, won't swell seals or O-rings, waterproof; will not wash out. So this is what I have right now but if this is not good I will buy something. Thank you again so much.
@@bluetuber501 Most waterproof greases are silicon-based. In the end, your machine/your choice. Happy sewing
@@andytubesewing1953 I'll buy grease especially for the machine. I only asked because I don't understand all on the science behind the different compounds. I didn't mean to seen dismissive of your previous suggestion. Again, it's just that I don't understand the science. Sincerest apologies if I sounded disrespectful. That was not my intention at all.
@@bluetuber501 Don't take it wrong, Sheri. You did not seem dismissive and I'm not offended. 👍I recommend the Tr-Flow Clear Synthetic Grease based on the recommendation of over 1 dozen professional VSM restorers, thr3 of whom were retired Singer Repairmen. It's literally the only grease I've used for close to 15 years. I know it works well and my wife's machines show no wear on the steel gearing all that time. I brush the grease off at least once per year and add new and the gears on her most used machine look as new as the ones in this video. In today's dollars, your machine cost about $3,000 when new. The TriFlow costs about $14 at Amazon and a 3oz tube will last you a 20 years minimum if used on your machine. It seems incredibly cheap to me, especially after the work you put into it. So no worries here, OK? Just enjoy that wonderful machine. 😀
Hi Andy, THANK you for sharing your knowledge!.. My Singer 503 has many chips on the hand wheel and I was thinking about painting it... Do you have a video on the removal??...
Welcome to Andy Tube Susan. Here are links to the removal/replacement of the handwheel on model 404. (No need to remove the counter-balance)
Although the shape of the 503 handwheel is different, the methods are the same to remove it. ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=eZiMaaka5HE
ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=hHl96WL1kzA
Thanks for watching Andy Tube and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you
Hi Andy, Thank you for sharing all your information with us. I have The Singer Model 503A. My problem is the Bobin thread, there’s all this thread sticking up on the fabric. The top is sewing correctly but underneath looks terrible. I did what the book said to do for bobin tension. I’m noticing that when I’m sewing I hear a click when the needle is sewing and that’s when my thread starts to get crazy underneath. What can I do? Thanks Andy.
I hope you’re doing well and stay safe, Virgie
Tangles on the bottom are usually the needle thread being pulled down from the top. That happens when the upper tension is too light, or the bobbin tension is too heavy. The key being "usually". I have videos for the upper tension unit and a video for cleaning and adjusting the class 66 bobbin like you have, BUT... recently an Andy Tube viewer spent weeks on this same problem and painstakingly went thru just about every adjustment in the service manual to no avail. He finally narrowed his problem down to the "delint" pin on the hook positioning finger. He removed that pin because he felt the thread was catching on it (which bent the needle.. click click) and caused big tangles on the underside of the fabric. After her removed that pin the problem was gone. Totally gone! I asked him to make a video and he was kind enough to do so. Maybe you could watch his video and see if you think you may have the same problem? ruclips.net/video/19UA-7Rj8S0/видео.html
I also have a 2-part video fro removing the hook and positioning finger if you need help with that: Part 1: ruclips.net/video/T4YPB1KK3_Q/видео.html
Part 2: ruclips.net/video/1GmJTGKE0aY/видео.html
of course I can't diagnose the problem over the internet, but only suggestions based on what I and others have found. If you need help later finding videos for tension and bobbin tension let me know and good luck.
Hello, Andy! How are you? ❤️
Ok. Need help. Have watched lots of your videos including this one multiple times. Also cleaning out lint and junk. Machine is breaking top thread. Can't figure out why. About 3weeks ago did the same thing then I had lots of trouble finding the problem. Pea size bunch of lint I got out from the bottom. Then she took off and I sewed about 4 days. Made dozen or more string blocks and a placemat. On 4th side of sewing border it all of a sudden started breaking thread just as before. Rethteaded, changed bobbin, changed needles all multiple times. Frustrated.
Today watched this video step by step. Oiled and lubed. Still breaking thread.
I've always found breaking thread to be one of the most annoying problems on a machine. There are so many possible causes plus a couple of extra ones on a Singer 503A. If you still have the problem you can contact me and together maybe we can find the cause once and for all. andymanuals53@gmail.com
Hi Andy, just spent the afternoon working on a 503a and she is back running. The problem I have is that the lever to move the needle left, center and right moves freely but doesn't move the needle bar with out some assistance. Any advice?
Don't change the position when the needle is in the fabric. Be sure the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket is lubricated. With the cover off push the position selector in, hold it in, and rapidly move it up and down. Now move it slowly up and down and see which parts are connected behind the lever and what is moving. Be sure those parts are not loose or need lubrication. If the position selecting lever pushes in & moves up and down easily then it is usually at the needle bar end that prevents easy swing of the needle, so I start with the Vibrating Bracket and the Needle Bar Connecting Link for oiling and cleaning if needed.
Here is the full Playlist for model 503A that includes the parts I mentioned. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX You can also download a free copy of the Service Manual for your machine at this link:
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
Andy I like that long handle lint brush you use. Where can I find a quality lint brush like it? All I find are short and cheaply made. Yours looks like vintage when things were made well.
It's actually a basting brush that came with a BBQ tool set I bought from Home Depot about 10 years ago. Sorry. 🙁
Wow...what a thorough video! I loved the close ups...takes the intimidation factor out of the oiling and greasing! I just come into possession of a beautiful 500e that looks in quite good shape...the only thing is there is some “crud” around some metal areas on the exterior body and a wee bit of dirt on the machine. What would you recommend to spruce it up without damaging the paint finish? Thank you and best wishes!
Welcome to Andy Tube, Kellie, and congrats on your "new" 500A Rocketeer. If you just want to "spruce it up", then alcohol can be used on any part of the machine, inside or outside, without harm. Cotton swabs, rags, toothbrushes, etc. If you want/need to repair/adjust or deeply clean it, here are a couple of playlists of my videos that can help with that. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX
If you did not receive a copy of the Instruction Manual with your machine, you can still download a free PDF copy of the original from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=500 It's 50 pages and covers all the operations, and basic cleaning and lubrication. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you so much Sir, and have a great day!
@@kellietrudel8222 Certainly. Good Luck.
Wonderful video! Thank you! I learned on my mom's new 500A when I was 6 (now you know my age), and sewed on it until I left for college. I now have a 503A (without the user manual) and feel right back at home. (My mom still uses hers!) My newly acquired machine runs great, with one exception that I cannot figure out.
The needle position selector moves well, but will not go to the left position. Something is definitely hard-stopping it. Advice?
That selector moves the needle bar driving arm and in turn the needle bar vibrating bracket. If those parts a not moving the needle bar to the left they could be dirty, lacking oil, maladjusted, or have missing/loose screw(s). It's impossible to know the history of the machine and how it was, or was not, serviced. Let's start with a free copy of the Instruction Manual from Singer: www.singer.com/search/support?title=403 Next, you can download a free copy of the Service Manual by scrolling down this page to the manual for the 500A which has a section for the 503A: sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/
Service Manuals cover almost every part of the machine as far as adjusting, removing, and replacing.
Here are my other 20 videos for your model 503A that show how to do some of those adjustments: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX also keep in mind my 26 videos for model 403A. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg Except for the bobbin winder systems, the mechanics on the two models is the same. If I did not cover it in a 503A video I made have shown it in a 403A video. If the machine was on my bench I'd take off the nose and top covers and move the NB position bracket to see what parts move and where and how far. If it comes to a hard stop you can still see the direction the part was moving and maybe determine what stopped it. I prefer the 403A/503A models over the 401A/500A models but they are all wonderful machines. Good luck, Melodie, and congrats on your "New" 403A, the Queen of Singer ZZ Machines.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you, Andy! You are very generous with your time and advice. So appreciated! Thank you, too, for the download! I am already subscribed to your RUclips Channel and have watched a couple of other videos already. I will get to them all, as I find them EXTREMELY helpful! Keep on keepin' on!
@@melodiescarr Thanks for the sub. Good luck going forward.
Hi Andy, I am a big fan of your very informative videos on sewing machine repair, I fixed 2 machines for my mom - replaced the vertical nylon gear on 2 machines. My neighbor let me tune up her 503a, I got everything working, but can't figure out how to close the top cover plate, the 2 flip bobbin post seems to have too much tension on the spring, forces the door back up. It there a missing spring on the door to keep it down?
There could be a missing spring, or loose spring. Here are what the two springs look like: www.bonanza.com/items/like/138466735/Singer-Rocketeer-500A-Arm-Cover-Door-172508-w-Door-Hinges-Screws They connect to and hold the top "flap" onto the arm cover. The attach to the bottom of the arm cover and clip onto the flap. The original springs for the flip-up spool pins did not seem to be that strong so I'm surprised when you said the flip open the flap. Here are the original springs/pins for you to compare yours too if you want www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-Sewing-Machine-Fold-Down-Spool-Pins-Springs-Fits-500-500A-503-503A/360416374234?hash=item53ea7d6dda:g:md8AAOSwyltZVlDr
thanks for watching my channel, Herman and I hope that helps.
I stretched both springs a bit until the door stayed down. The springs are way too strong, even to the point the door flings up.
@@HemanLee Oh, man. I guess they are not the originals then? If the door springs are in place properly there is no way those spool pin springs should be able to lift that door. Sounds like you may need to find some of the original springs. www.sewingpartsonline.com/spool-pin-spring-singer-500-sewing-machine.aspx
@@andytubesewing1953After research, the hinge retainer on the left also has a 2nd part the hold the lid in 2 position, that part is broken off. I only know this because I found a 2nd 503a to compare against. That part is really hard to find. I had to jury rig some with sheet metal.
@@HemanLee Where there is a will... You are a creative fellow. Nicely done.
What should I use to clean nicotine off the exterior?? I was thinking either a bit of orange oil or a magic sponge????
I've never used either of those products, but have heard a magic sponge can damage the finish.
If I just want to clean the exterior I use dish soap. About a half gallon of warm sudsy dish soap and a cotton washcloth. I follow up wiping it down with a fresh cloth of clear water and then dry the machine.
I'm sensitive to the smell and usually find it has been sucked into the interior of the machine by the small motor fan. I usually wash the whole machine with a light Solution of Krud Kutter Cleaner and Degreaser. I've restored many Vintage Singer machines that way. It shocks people to see me put the machine in a tub and give it a shower with a hose, but it's the best way I have found to get decades of gunk and odors off and out of the machine. I remove a few parts before washing. If you have any interest in that method here is just one of my many washing videos: ruclips.net/video/kXZHksK7rGQ/видео.html
If all you need is the exterior cleaned please just try the dish soap. You could always follow up with something stronger if needed.
Dawn dish soap is great, but almost any brand will do. Thanks for watching my channel.
Very informative. I just bought a Singer 503j. I was following your service/maintenance video, and I noticed that the drive gear (fiber or whatever it is), is loose on the shaft and moved back and forth about 3/16". Is this normal? Also, I noticed that the return springs for the bobbin wind mechanism are out of place, presumably from previous service. Is there information I can access to correct these concerns? Thanks.
There are spings in the handwheel so it helps prevent "shocking starts/stops" on the wheel. You can download a free copy of the service manual for the machine at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf.
Page 18 has a nice "exploded" diagram of the handwheel parts. I've never found a broken spring in one, but I have emails from people who did. The bobbin winder springs are world-famous for breaking. They can be replaced. You can find new springs for replacement online and page 17 of that manual has directions for removing/replacing them. This video you commented on is from a playlist of 20 videos I made about working on model 503A, including the bobbin winder system and replacing those springs if you prefer videos to the manual or to supplement the written directions. Here is that playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX
Here is a playlist for model 403A, the same mechanics for the most part: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg On my main playlist page you can find other videos for working on the motor and working on the foot controller of this type of slant needle machine. ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public
Once you get things squared away you may like to have a little fun with a diamond stone brush seater and really speed up that motor.
ruclips.net/video/pzq4tv8qn94/видео.html
The 503 model is a popular model and I hope you will enjoy it. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 I appreciate your prompt reply. It's so hard to find good help it seems. Your videos are very helpful!
Minutes after I sent the questions, I decided I'd take a look for myself. I found that the gear had been installed backwards, not allowing enough room for the snap ring that is there to hold the gear into position. Eventually, it walked its way down the shaft and the gears were only partially meshed. Fortunately, there was no damage to the fiber gear; that I find surprising. I removed the gear, cleaned it and reassembled everything. The dampening spring is fine, too. Applied some Singer lubrication, and we were off to the races! The one bobbin kick-out spring is broken, missing one of the ends. The other spring was out of position, but ok. I was able to get the bobbin function to work, just the same. The information in your videos is valuable. Thank you.
@@jaycoates2382 Congratulations. Thanks for letting me know.
Andy I've been trying to find something to help me unfreeze my Singer 503A handwheel. I can turn the rod the handwheel goes on, but once I put on the gold handwheel it will not turn. I have tried every position possible, but it won't turn. Any suggestions?
Does the motor work normally?
@@andytubesewing1953 I don't have a controller for it yet. I'm trying to figure out if I should stick more $ in it or just sell parts. I'd like to get it working because it has all the parts and looks really good; a unique SM.
@@joycema1014 remove the motor and try again. ruclips.net/video/HDX2bXTeTX8/видео.html
Hi Andy, curious - you show what type of grease your are using but not the oil ... can you reply with the name of the tri-flow oil you are using. Great video!
It's a long video, isn't it? I show and name the oil at 15:33.
TRI-FLOW® SUPERIOR LUBRICANT DRIP BOTTLE
Here is the manufacturers web page: www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-lubricant-drip-bottle/
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks! I totally missed that part - sorry! It's a long video but so very helpful!!!
how do we clean the felt at the bottom of the spool pins??
Great question! I pick off any loose stuff like lint or threads and get them wet. I use a drop or two of laundry detergent on it then gently squeeze it around in a circle a couple of times before rinsing the soap out. Press them in a towel or paper towel to get the excess water out and let them air dry. They turn out nice and fresh and "puff up" like new. Thanks so much for asking and for watching my channel.
I know it's been 6 years, but maybe someone in the comments can answer. I accidentally took off the sliding bobbin cover. Unlike the 400 series which are easy to put back on, I cannot figure out how to get it back on without taking everything apart. Can someone help?
ruclips.net/video/AnLKB9CPrmE/видео.html
Andy, I disassembled and cleaned the tension mechanism. I've also done a general service (oil/grease). I've started to use the machine a little more, and after a while, I noticed it was bunching underneath (nesting?). Also, the upper thread was occasionally fraying. I'm using heavy thread, and sewing boat canvas - all new material. There's some numbers on the thread spool, one that is legible is 6825. This thread seems prone to twisting up. I've tried bypassing the threading slack mechanism you mentioned in a video, and it seems to have helped. Before I tried this, the tensioner seemed to behave inconsistently. I think the thread may have been partially fraying and catching in the tension disks. Occasionally the thread would break, and this is tough stuff! Regardless, the machine seems a bit happier with that slack mechanism bypassed. Do you have any thoughts on this? Have you or anyone you've spoke with used one of these 503J machines to do this type of work? I find it's very smooth, and has plenty of power for the heavy fabric. I appreciate your time and help.
I can't say what the numbers on the thread mean, maybe the color number for all I know! looping is often caused by tension imbalance. Under looping can mean the bobbin tension is stronger than the needle tension. I have a fellow who bought a 403a for sewing canvas and duck cloth and said it performed really well. He used polyester thread is all he said. Maybe number 80? Personally, I've never had thread get shredded going through or in the tension assembly. I've had plenty of cases where the needle thread was shredded going through the eye of the needle. I'd recommend a top stitch style of a needle. The tension of both the tension assembly AND the bobbin may need adjustment to accommodate a much heavier thread. I have a video about how I try adjusting a class 66 bobbin case if you want to take a look at it. The tension setting on your 503 may need to be adjusted. ruclips.net/video/bhcsfhaBRDo/видео.html
I've been hearing lately about serious thread twisting. I've never encountered that, but the only sewing I do is when testing a machine after restoration. I do know that on many spools the thread is wound in what I'd call a "crossing pattern". ( I don't know the technical name) on taller smaller diameter spools and "cones" versus the older style of "reel" winding. On the reel style, the thread is meant to come off the spool sideways (like a fishing reel) while the spool is standing up on your spool. On other spools, I believe the spool is supposed to be on a horizontal spool and pulled off the end of the spool. On that type, and cones, if they are sitting on the spool pin of your 503 and the thread is pulling off the side I think that could really put some twisting into the thread. My wife buys thread in 5,000-foot cones but has a stand that holds the cone with an arm and loop at the top so the thread unwinds off the top of the spool, ( same as saying off the end of the spool) like on a serger or industrial sewing machine. Here are some articles about tension, needles, and thread at the Superior Thread website that you may find interesting. Their business is thread and I think they explain it better than I can.
www.superiorthreads.com/education/balancing-top-and-bottom-tension
www.superiorthreads.com/education/matching-bobbin-thread
www.superiorthreads.com/education/thread-twist-explained
They claim 50% of the cause of thread breaking is cheap/bad thread and 20% to the needle and 20% to unbalanced tension. In your case maybe the tension and needle are causing most of it. I don't know about your thread. Superior also is an advocate of using a top-stitch needle (they make some) for better stitching.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for your response. An update:
I found that the thread fraying seemed to occur after I had switched the needle position to the right. That led to thread "fuzz" creating tensioner problems. I cleaned the tensioner, and the bobbin holder. I centered the needle setting, and retested. The problem seems to have gone away. Is it possible that the needle position affected the machine's ability to pick up the thread in the bobbin area? The snags and frays seems to happen in that area, when the problem was happening.
Usually if the timing is correct (hook to needle point) there is no problem with skipped stitches or thread shred by using the L or R needle position unless the needle is NOT centered in the needle plate (needle in center when adjusting the needle bar to center it) and you get the needle scraping on the needle plate hole. When sewing ZZ be sure to use lower needle thread tension setting. When sewing primary or special patterns some can only be set to width 4 maximum. It is possible that the eye of the needle is too small for the thread size you are using. That causes fuzzing and shredding of the needle thread as it passes through the eye and it gets worse with left or right or zz stitching. If using heavier thread I think a top-stitch needle would be worth it.
Andy, how does it start after plugging it in? pressing the foot pedal nothing is happening
****PLEASE start by being sure the cord is completely plugged in. Sometimes it is a tight fit.****
There is no on/off switch, so pressing the pedal should make it go.
Do you hear it trying to run, like the motor groans or hums? If your machine was in storage for a long time it can be "seized" and need to be serviced by oiling, etc.
If you want to troubleshoot it a little then first turn on the light to see if electricity is getting thru the plug and into the wires. If the light comes on then try releasing the stop motion knob on the handwheel to disengage everything but the handwheel. (If you don't know how to do that, see page 10 of the instruction manual www.singer.com/search/support?title=503)
With the knob turned try to just turn the handwheel. If it turns you know the handwheel and motor are not seized. Try pressing the pedal now to see if the motor/handwheel works now. If not try plugging the cord in all the way. Be sure your electric outlet works.
If the motor still won't work the cord may be bad or the pedal may be bad (very rare for the pedal)
If the motor works now then the parts of the machine are seized up. If so, then oil the machine as shown on pages 89-91. Use sewing machine oil and skip the grease for now. Heating the parts with a hairdryer can soften up old oil, let the new oil in, and get things moving.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the reply, I will try that.
@@hotdog5966 It's a wonderful machine. I have some other videos for it and for model 403A which has the same parts inside.
The videos include about the wiring, motor, handwheel, etc. There are two playlists, the 503A playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX and the 403A playlist:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg
If your problem is not a simple fix and you want to delve deeper into the machine my videos may help.
They are mostly tutorial-style and easy to follow. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you 😇
You're welcome 😊
Andy I have truble get thumb nut off. How do I get off . I have 500 a rockette a lady suggested you and that you now how fix issues I try find new wire and plug cord. Knee peddle singer rockette I got 7yr ago it my grate grandmother. It been set for 40yr.
Welcome to AndyTube, Brittnie. Congratulations on getting a500A Rocketeer. The thumb nut on the tension can get stuck parts. I made a video to show how you can get it off ruclips.net/video/woJraVBSWcI/видео.html Many places sell new cord sets for model 500A. Here is just one example www.ebay.com/itm/291055557783 If you want to use the knee lever in a cabinet for the foot pedal you can find used foot pedals on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/203997724833?hash=item2f7f3640a1:g:fTkAAOSwyB1irNNc
If you have the pedal and want to restore/rehab it I have a series of videos on how to do that. It will also show you how the cord connects inside ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71 Thank you for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 . So diel on the front is stuck but able push in. I do not like foot peddle. In less it tradle. I want keep in way the machine is but I scard one cable. Because I bending.it could bracket. It with it mother in the cabnet it for knee. Peddle and cord plug in in attch on the side of the machine.. I try different things I done top. What see oil spot. But . Bottom. Is it a Maine that is run loud or is it run and be quit machine.. it was my grandmother mom's machine . What is different 400. 300 500 . A rockette. When were they stop being made. Was start 1950. 1970... my Hass all tools stool and manual. As if just walk out of a store. I had replaced bobbin. And needle . As 1 bobbin. Any suggestions what way get dirt out Bottom .. look info you suggested .
@@brittniesmith8201 The foot pedal slides into a metal bracket in the cabinet. You can force it out by sliding it.
Here are 16 videos showing different ways that I have cleaned sewing machines: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKK8O1UvRsU-eNo2G2yX3f2G
I've got my mom's 401a sewing cabinet (machine is gone) and a 503a portable sewing machine. Is it possible to install that machine in the sewing cabinet? I don't have the things that attach the 2 of them to each other but I think I do see 2 places on the back of the machine that the attachment could be made! I've measured both, and the cabinet opening and the machine base are a match at 16.5" x 7". Thank you for any help! I neglected my machine for so many years and am now trying to get it up and running!
It sounds like a fit! Are the hinges still attached to the cabinet? Hinges look like these:
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xsinger+cabinet+hinges.TRS0&_nkw=singer+cabinet+hinges&_sacat=0
Those two holes on the back of your machine are made to slide onto the "pins" of the cabinet hinges. On your machine, each hole should have a small screw on the bottom of it to tighten against the hinge pin. I think the machines are similar in height, so the 503A should fold down into the cabinet for storage. If you don't want to fold it down for storage you can just set the machine into the cut-out. If you want to fold down the machine into the cabinet for normal storage, measure your cut-out of the cabinet from the front of the cut-out to the first hinge pin, compare it to the distance from the front edge of your 503A to that first hole on the back. The best way to mount the machine onto the pins is to use a large rubber band around the hinge pins to hold them pointing straight up toward the ceiling. Slide the machine holes onto the pins and tighten the screws. Cut the rubber band away if you like. Good luck, Lisa.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much! I'll let you see the finished product. I ordered those hinge pins yesterday and am so excited to get this project I've been putting off for 3 years done, finally! Your video on how to service the machine was absolutely crucial for getting the machine back to running order! Thank you again! Lisa
Oh, we'd all love to see that beauty when it's ready. Thanks you.
Andy Tube I got it finished but I can’t figure out how to send you a picture!!! It looks awesome and fits like a dream!!!! Thank you again for all your help! Once things calm down, I’m going to have it professionally serviced but it’s definitely up and running now!
@@LisaPro Why not post a short cellphone video on your channel? My channel email in on my "ABOUT" page.
. Con que liquido Debo limpiar los engranajes de metal antes de colocar la grasa nueva?? ,gracias
Hi, Freddy. e gusta usar Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter/
pero puede usar alcohol, queroseno, solvente para limpieza de armas y productos por el estilo. NO use nada que contenga aceite o la grasa nueva no se adherirá a los engranajes. Me gusta cepillar los engranajes en seco primero con un cepillo de dientes viejo o un cepillo de alambre. Eliminar la grasa vieja de esa manera permite que los líquidos limpien mejor los engranajes de acero. Después de cepillarme utilizo los líquidos y lo limpio con trapos o uso un secador de pelo antes de agregar la grasa. Gracias por ver mi canal y buena suerte.
I cand not remove my hand wheel, any suggestions?
More info, please. Why can't it be removed? What's preventing it?
I have the same problem. The machine had an excessive amount of grease applied that had hardened. I cleaned everything. However the hand wheel will not budge. I cannot loosen it to disengage the needle bar for the bobbin winding. (Thank you for all your videos! I have restored several machines for family members. Also, I am sorry to hear about your health problems.)
@@caroleehornbuckle6855 I had a very stubborn handwheel on a 500A and what worked, in the end, was removing the little stop screw completely and spraying WD40 inside the hole then heating for several minutes with a hairdryer. I still could not budge it until my wife held the wheel while I turned the stop motion knob. Finally. We both wore leather gloves b/c the wheel/knob was hot.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for the quick response! I tried the hair dryer with no success. My next move, I was going to lay the machine on its side and spray WD40 between the wheels….spraying inside the screw holes sounds like a better idea!
Again I want to thank you for your numerous videos. I found a Singer 66 in a leaky shed on the ranch. The throat plate was missing, it was extremely dirty and rusty. I took it all apart and completely restored the machine by watching your videos. There was some pitting from the rust. I replaced those parts. I thought I
had the timing off, so I drove to closest sewing technician (very few in Wyoming). The technician said the timing was perfect, I just threaded the needle wrong. Anyway, my problem now is…I am obsessed with old sewing machine restoration!
@@caroleehornbuckle6855 Yes, spray between the wheel too! It can take some time to loosen up so be patient. I have often sprayed, heated, waited an hour or two, and repeated all day. The 66 sounds great. To justify my own obsession with the VSMs I have given many to charities. women's shelters, church sewing groups, charity auctions, senior centers, etc. If you start getting too many of them you can try that. I did sell some to get money to buy more, of course. It's like a self-paying hobby.