I am OLD school, reloading for 25 years plus. I use a Hornady case trimmer which I have replaced the cutter once. I like the RCBS primer pocket swager to remove military crimps. I have had exceptional life out of military LC head stamps brass. Lately I have picked up AMI head stamp brass of great quality. I believe this comes from Australia, a mystery on how it came here. I clean my brass with a RCBS ultrasonic cleaner which works well. My 223 hand loads typically shoot 1 MOA or better. I enjoy your videos and have learned much, and yes as an old dog I have learned new tricks. I am retired Navy - 76 years young.
homemade induction annealer Giraud Triway cutter Hornady lock-n-load press with primer pocket swage kit loading bulk brass without tools like these is tortue
I have been prepping 5.56 casings most of this morning (instead of running the pressure washer and lawn mower). And finally now, after about 400 of them, I see your video.
doing it his way is torture, especially if you're doing more than 50 casings build an induction annealer (search "home made induction annealer and there's a great how to on accurateshooters forum) Giraud triway trimmer (amazeballz) Hornady lock-n-load progressive press with their lock-n-lock primer pocket swage kit you're hands will thank you time and time again when using these tools for bulk prep
Ive watched this a couple of times now i started watching videos i have been hand loading for a couple of years at this point if you are new and watching this for homework then your starting out smart do the home work it helps even if its to refresh youur memories on the process start out with the caliber you shoot the most and add on from there
Older school reloader. Most of it is for hunting but I'm always thinking about clean shots... Recently retired and looking for easier ways to do the job. Normal Steps: 1. Print my reloading note... basically the short list that is here. Keeps me from repeating/skipping steps. 2. Collect all the brass of the same size. 3. Run the brass through the home made dry abrasive tumbler with corn cob. 4. Lube and resize/deprime 5. Run the brass back through the abrasive tumbler to get rid of the lube. 6. Clean primer pocket (just got a Frankford Arsenal Platinum trimmer. Gotta recommend it. Less times picking the brass up) 7. Swage the primer pocket (put the swager on the Frankford) 8. Check length on all the brass. Toss long stuff in a bin to be resized later. 9. Double check primer pockets to ensure no tumbling media is in them. 10. Prime 11. If I'm working on test loads I'll just prime the brass and box it. Remember the reloading note from step 1? write down primer type and keep it in the box. 12. If I'm doing full reloads I'll go ahead and use the RCBS auto powder measure and press a bullet in. 13. Drop each round into a bullet size check. I think that mine is from Lee. Ensures clean loading in all firearms. 14. Take to the range and test a few. After seeing your process I'll probably purchase a casing comparitor (?sp) and maybe the gauge for length checking the untrimmed brass. Always looking for ways to speed up the process. I'll load 500 or more in a run. That gives me ammo for a couple of years hunting.
I do not reload. I have been watching reloading videos for sometime now. I will probably start reloading pretty soon. I loved your video. Very informative. Thank you for sharing.
I have been reloading for a few years now but only straight wall cases for pistol. Looking to start reloading rifle and was mainly looking for order of the steps...the video was great and gave me the info I needed. Appreciate the time you took to explain the tools and the process.
Thanks for the video. I have worked mill brass through trial and error years ago. I hated the learning curve but have it down pretty good. I use same process but slightly different tools. I swage my primer hole with an RCBS tool. And trim the cases with a Lyman lathe type tool with my drill. Additionally the type of brass coming from a military full auto is tough to size for me. And I have had many broken decapping pins broken. I need pins from Tungsten. Thanks again!!
I usually prep 2-500 pieces of .223-5.56 at a time so I bought a Lee APP and the swaging kit. I already had a Lee Universal Decapping die. Makes a world of difference in the time it takes to do basic brass prep before resizing.
I set up and ran my brand new APP press just last night, I deprimed and resized 2000 5.56 cases, then installed the Lee primer pocket swager and ran them all through again, I stood at that press for about 8 hours last night😂. The APP press is amazing though, I can't imagine how long it would have taken to run 2k cases if I didn't have an automatic case feeder.
why would you only prep 2 pieces? 🤔 in all seriousness, a Giraud Triway cutter and a homemade induction annealer would make prep even easier for you ;)
@@AmericanNationalist852 that's 200-500 and I have a Giraud trimmer for competition stuff. Range fodder get prepped with a drill and a Lee trim die. :)
I'm a Greek army sniper AND a Quartermaster! Don't ask me how I did this. I did it... I get a ton of used brass from the range and I definitely can get a lot of this brass for reloading. I'm not special forces and we don't have match ammo in the infantry. I've checked some lots of DM41 7,62 and found many inconsistencies in the load. I'm talking about 0,5 to 1 grain from bullet to bullet. This is a nightmare for me in the range. I want to get started on reloading and your video got me fired up. Thanks for the links :)
I love that everyone’s process is a little different. I do pretty much the exact same process with the exact same tools, but I always decap ad tumble up front then brush and wipe the case at the end.
Just starting and doing research. Got a batch prepped and about to start loading. Good to watch videos by people with experience for a sanity check and to pick up stuff that's not written in the book. Thanks for doing the video.
I wet tumble, dry, then lube with 10:1 alcohol/lanolin and let dry. Resize then wet tumble again. Run through a frankford case prep center then load progressively on a pro 1000. Cases shine like gold and look brand new. I used to trim like this but it’s hard on the fingers doing batches of several hundred. Might invest in a wft.
Lanolin sizing lube sucks ass. Unique case lube rules them all. Period. End of story. No contest. The little can of it will literally last tens of thousands of rounds. I bought 2 cans and i fully expect them to last me the rest of my life. if you can see it on your casings you're using too much. Had stuck cases with lanolin, one shot, etc.... NEVER a single one with unique.
Your system is very similar to mine. I use a universal deprimer, then use the crimp remover and flash hole uniformer. I also use a primer pocket brush at this stage. Next, I use my sonic cleaner and dry my brass in the oven at 120 degrees for an hour. At this point I anneal my brass.. My next step is to size, trim, chamfer and deburr, followed by another trip through the sonic cleaner and dried in the oven. Once the brass cools, it's dumped into an old ice cream bucket, ready to be loaded. After its first prep the process remains the same other than not having to remove the crimp or uniform the flash hole.
I bought my first press a month ago..lee pro 1000... I've been watching everything under the sun and bought all the tools n things I need to start loading 223 n 9mm...I'm getting anxious no doubt but I want to make sure I'm ready cause wen it's on..it's no stopping..thank for the video,🤙🤙
I've collected 556 223 brass from shooting for the last year couple 1000 casings...I just bought 223 dies n wanna brush up on some basics so I know what to expect..thanx for great content...
Every handloader has his own way to process his brass & build his handloads. It is interesting to see how others do it, sometimes we find ways to improve our own methods.
Pro tip, use a universal primer remover and remove the primer before taking shoulder measurements. If you don't, your measurements will likely be off between .002-.004" to long. I'd also recommend finding your rifles chamber's headspace measurements because I've seen a significant difference in my chamber compared to other chambers, I had some "range pickup" brass last time I did a batch that was near .015" over my chamber... those came from a full auto.
i also pick up range brass so i dont know much between is it 556 or 223 but hoping it doesnt matter. im trying to reload for my 223 remington bolt action but having an issue where the bolt wont close. Im using full length dies but wondering if i should switch to small base dies and also not sure if i may be doing other things wrong. got any advice?
I have TONS, (well, not actual TONS), but i have mucho 5.56/.223 brass and with the price of ammo, I decided to start loading my rifle ammo, I purchased a few bricks of primers for rifle a few years back and some IMR-3031, never loaded. But recently I found some WIN 748 and I decided to start. I purchase all the tools I needed and I am getting ready, we de-capped over 1K round recently and found most of them crimp, so that will be the next step, but for the non-crimped brass, we are going to expect, resize, trim, (if needed) and then load some test rounds. I have bee loading Pistol for over 30 years, just never owned a rifle up until 2007, started with an AR and then a Rem 700, not up to my second AR and a really nice M1A. Great Vid, gives really great information.
I am just getting my tools and parts together. Got my hands on a good amount of military brass and glad to have found this video. Very informative and I appreciate you leaving the link to the tools and parts you use. I’ve subscribed to see more
I am just starting. Really doing research before I unbox and get started. Finally got primers so now I am going to start getting things together. Thanks for this detailed but easy to follow video.
I appreciate your content, and your presentation style. Keep up the great work. Almost 50 here and started reloading with family at home in the 80’s. Lots of Lee equipment, don’t really remember any other brands except I think I have a memory of an orange dry media tumbler. Despite a lifetime of shooting and some early reloading experience, there’s plenty more for me to learn. I’m just branching out to a progressive press for reloading pistol, have never reloaded for handguns. Really only started into metallic to load .32 WS, which is pretty much obsolete. Hornady leverevolution powder with FTX bullets is a game changer for my lever guns. Your emphasis on primer seat prep is understandable. Seating primers in some of that 223 brass takes ridiculous torque in my Redding big boss 2 which is uncomfortable for me and likely more so for a rank beginner. I just bought a bunch of starline brass for .300 Blk to avoid dealing with it. Life is short. Btw I bet your MEC applies more torque than my Redding. I’ve owned hydraulic MEC 9000’s for shotshell reloading but they are sheet metal and stamped parts and while perfectly serviceable, I was ruined by Spolar, which is an aluminum CnC work of art. That MEC with its massive cylinder looks sweet. I like that you use inexpensive tech when it serves just as well. The Lee case length trimmer is a good example. I use these but I chuck mine up in the lathe. I use Lee dies, bullet sizer, hardness tester. Everyone has their own priorities when reloading. I appreciate accuracy but don’t shoot benchrest and don’t require .223 or .300 Blk to shoot better than I can. So I’m looking for efficiency over concentricity, etc, and just bought a Hornady lock n load to knock out more of my reloading tasks.
For anyone who is ok paying for convenience I’d buy a CH4D primer swage die. About 2 seconds per crimped brass. Also an RCBS case trimmer with the RCBS 3 way cutter and power adaptor will save a ton of time by trimming chamfering and deburring at once. You can also rig the handle with paracord to use your foot to lock/unlock the brass in the trimmer and keep your right hand on the drill and left hand handling brass. I’ve been at this a few years and definitely have learned what is worth the cost. There’s a lot that I would do differently if just starting out
Thanks, I learned something watching this that explained why my reloaded 223 got stuck in the chamber. Didn't get the neck sized down enough. I've since bought that stainless gauge that you drop the brass in. The RCBS deburring tool gets rid of the primer crimps. Thanks a bunch for this video.
I started reloading as a way to have some sort of "self reliance" and figured better to master my technique before hard times.... I started about 3 months before COVID with a Lee single stage. I luckily bought a nice chunk from a broken fireplace worth of primers and then have been bilking up on powders since. I get my brass free by simply helping local range clean up. I upgraded to a pro 1000 9mm kit during COVID and my bumhole is still sore from the price raping I took on it but was well worth it in long run. Bought a load master press as a long term storage press to put up and also just got a pro 4000 223 kit. I enjoy the reloading (most of time) of 9mm and am currently looking for a faster way to check brass length as I'm now doing 223 which is a bit more prep intensive... That's what brought me here. Checking 1 case at a time is slow.
About to start reloading again after a 30 year hiatus. Getting up the learning curve watching YT videos. Rehabbed my Dads 1970’s era Rock Chucker Jr. Midway USA order due delivery today! Start w .223 cartridges!
Great video. I'm new to reloading. You've given me a new perspective to case prep. I'm starting out with 5000 pieces of expended brass, in .45, .38, 9mm, .223/5.56 and .308. Cleaning has been a bummer. I only have about 1000 pieces of 9mm that remain to be cleaned. Case prep will be my next step. ( primers were removed before the cleaning process) I was going to buy a 5 station prep machine but now I'm contemplating just chucking up individual tools into multiple drills for efficiency. Again, thanks for the alternative ideas.
I mark my 223 brass with an archival permanent ink pad on the head stamp. This makes it easy to separate out my brass from others that get picked up at the range. I’m still experimenting with the exact shoulder bump needed, but it’s looking like a Full Length die set to full insertion is only pushing 2-3 mills for my fire formed cases. Seems to wood good in my chamber.
I enjoyed your explanations - very clear with some great time saving ideas. Everyone else I’ve listened to advises cleaning the brass in advance of sizing to ensure dirt and grit don’t affect the brass sizing or damage the sizing dies.
I’m looking to get back in to reloading, I have loaded 45 ACP in the past. I got out of shooting do to career obligations. I retired a year ago, I’ve invested in more relocating equipment for rifle. Now I need small rifle primers. It’s always something. Thanks for the video.
Just getting started on 5.56/223 still buying pieces I have most of what you showed but still need to get tumbler I started with 9mm just built a AR-15 .
Great video man, I have my first press, dies, and a bunch of 556 brass on the way so this was super helpful to see the processing ahead of actually loading. Thanks man!
What company is that case trimmer u used in your drill? I looked in your list it’s not there and I like that one with the pin set to what length it needs
I used the Lyman Case Prep Center. Switching from a drill to that really made a difference in how much brass I can prep before I get tired. There is an adapter to use the Lee trimmer
Also agree on the Lyman Case Prep Xpress. I have mine set up, counterclockwise, to debur, chamfer, flash hole debur, primer pocket uniform and clean. I've had it since 2016 and I use it a lot to process 223, 300 Blackout, and 300 HAM'R.
Excellent presentation, very informative and easy to understand. Haven’t started yet, still gathering all my equipment, but I will defiantly look for your videos to help me along. One thing my mentor told me about is if you want your brass clean use your drill and case holder and hold 1000 grit steel wool to the rotating brass, really shines it up very nice, very quick….
RCBS is a shell holder #10. I had a #4 and was having issues of bending the rim a little on brass that was pretty tight pulling out of the sizing die. Had to throw that brass out.
Really enjoyed this upload. I'm not new to reloading but watching how someone else treats the process is always informative and educational. Keep up the fine work and thanks for posting. MB
When I cut the crimp rings I use a ballistic tool primer go/no-go gauge. They make one for small and large primer pockets It’s under $20 an you know for sure the primers will seat well or use it to see if the pocket are stretched out on brass that’s been fired multiple times. Great vid WDS
Very good. I’ve been reloading for a few years, I wet tumble with pins after I de-prime. I never used the comparator that’s attached to your calipers, maybe later. I use standard base dies not small base.
Haven't started yet but planning on it. This was a excellent video, explanation of each step was really good. I really like all your videos, clear and informative, great job!
Good video and comments Logan. I’m in the process of resetting up my reloading station after a two year hiatus due to moving and I’m enjoying setting it up right this time. A few tools I’ve enjoyed are the Frankfort Arsenal wet tumbler and case prep machine and the Little Crow Worlds Best Case trimmer on a WEN 8” table top drill press. I use the RCBS Rock Chucker IV as I’m more interested in accuracy than speed and I find if you get into a rhythm you can knock out batch loads pretty quick. When we were stuck in the house for Covid I sat out in the garage, listened to books on tape and prepped 3500+ rounds of once fired Lake City 556, by the time you get that many done you have the bugs worked out. By the way Logan, I bought the UP15 complete rifle, best shooting 223 I’ve ever shot, shot in a 500yd shoot in May, came in 5th only behind the high dollar Creedmoor Chassis guns so thanks for you reviews.
I would HIGHLY recommend a 3 way case trimmer! I do 1k rounds at a time and it saves a ton of time on case prep. I usually swage and chamfer my primer pockets, but I may try one of those military crimp tools.
This is an excellent video for beginners. And I consider myself one. The corn cob media will give a great shine but it creates an added step of clearing the flash hole.
Good video. However, I have a few questions. The first is where do I obtain a comparator die? I have looked high and low and cannot find one. Also, the military crimp removal….is that just for .223/5.56 rounds or can that be used for all rounds?
Great info. I’m doing all my research right now on reloading. I will be starting with .223/5.56. My questions: Is it necessary to use a primer pocket uniformer after taking the crimp out? When is it necessary to use a primer pocket uniformer?
Great explanation and steps...im just starting.....e.g. waiting for delivery of first reload equipment purchase...haha...buckets of brass from years of shooting on tap
I have found that 223/5.56 is very thin at the neck and splits easily. My solution is to anneal the neck area by setting up a cordless drill with a hex to 1/4 in drive adapter connected to the appropriate size 1/4" deep socket. Using a hose clamp or ziptie, set the rpms of the cordless drill to about 2-3 revolutions per second. This helps keep heating uniform. Use a metal container with 3-4 inches of water to collect the heated brass and quickly cool them. A propane torch with a medium flame is used for heat. Place the water container under the ends of the deep socket and get started. Heat the neck of the case and dump them in the water to quench and anneal. Watch the color of the brass as you heat it. A blue or gray line will appear about the shoulder and I quench when this color change line advances to about 1/4 inch below the shoulder. Just tip the heated case toward the water to dump it without having to touch that fingerprint removing piece of hot brass. It's vital that your water is deep enough to completely submerge each case at first touch. I do this after the first clean, deprime and resize, basically just before I reprime the cases. Though a person could anneal before the deprime/resize process.
With surplus brass, wouldn't it be best to completely resize to SAAMI with a full-length die for the first resizing? Then after they've been fired in your own rifle, resize to the 3-thou shoulder bump?
Yes. With surplus brass you resize to SAAMI spec first, then fire it in your rifle. Then set your shoulder bump based on your rifle. If you don't, you're making the assumption that your chamber is exactly the same as the chamber of the rifle it was first shot in. That assumption would be wrong.
Great video Logan, I’m sure in two years you’ve picked up more tools to make the job easier as I have. Couple things you’ve done is using a small base resizer that works in both your AR and bolt action is a big plus. I also have a Uintah UP15 and I just necksize at least twice since they’re fire formed. I saw something a few days ago that I liked, a guy bought an extra drum for his wet tumbler and puts walnut shells and a little car wax in to do the initial cleaning before he starts the process. Like you I download a book on my phone and knock out a hundred or so rounds so they’re ready for priming, powder and bullets. Subscribed
One id like to know were i can get that old school reload book. And were can i get those extra tools the flash hole trimmer. Primer and ur little case trimmer i like that
I have reloaded pistol for years. Just getting into 223. Great video. I am going to use lee full length rezing die. Is This shoulder bump stuff critical? I purchased a comparator. I have collected a ton of range pickup brass.
I have a dollar tree wire frame waste basket in a bucket and just dump the tumbler in to it and the shake the basket to remove the walnut materials. Works great, but dusty.
For any newbies watching I highly recommend the Lyman case prep Xpress and the WFT trimmer. Really speeds things up. I also do the same thing for pistol and rifle. Get a bunch of brass prepped and primed so when I'm ready I just have to drop powder, seat and crimp
I do this but... I use an electric drill and it has a locking on/ off button, get a 15 degree counter sink for sheet metal chuck it up stick it in the vice and turn it on and feed it brass 1 second each and it cuts the crimp up to a perfect bevel I have learned that the whole crimp does not need to expanded just the first couple of hundreds or so and the new primer goes right in , just speeds things up a bit and you don't have to hold the drill.
I have not reloaded anything yet but am trying to research the best information I can. I have a dillon reloader and want to reload pistol and rifle loads. thanks for your time and information.
Thanks for the video! I have been reloading for a few years now and was wondering if I was chamfering the inside to much. I definitely was going a bit overboard. They are a little sharp so hopefully that’s not to bad…
Kindred reloading spirits. Subscribed, bell rung, commented, upvoted, liked, shared ... may the algorithm gods smile favorably upon your channel. I do mine well in advance, hundreds at a time, for my PSA Sabre SASS M110 20" clone.
Regarding cleaning brass, I always dry tumble before decapping, decap the case, clean and condition the primer pocket and flash hole, go-no go the primer pocket, measure case length, trim if necessary, anneal the cases, lube the cases with Imperial lube, case size with the sizing die and the neck expander ball removed, lube the neck with graphite lube, expand the necks with a mandrel, check the neck inside diameter with the Pin Gage. Last step is to check the case neck run-out. If the run-out is 0.000 - .003, they are good. more than .003, I resize to try and get a better run-out. If now less than .003", ok. If .0035 to .005, target only, not for hunting. Over .005, discard. Then, after all this, I do a final wet tumble and thoroughly dry the cases which removes ALL inside material, metal, neck lubricants, case lubricants and provides a final polish. After the cases are dry, check for any stuck pins in the primer pockets or lying inside the case. Now my cases are ready to be primed and loaded.
Yes, it’s a double check. Either way works. Using the comparator you know exactly how much it’s been sized. The case gage is just a go or no go. Good question
@@WestDesertShooter I was also confused about the comparator, especially where you got the target -.003" measurement from, I think I may understand now though, thanks for making these videos!
@@WestDesertShooter The problem is, if it's unknown brass, it could be fired in many different chambers so the first measurement is totally arbitrary. The gage is 'go-no go' off the shoulder specifically designed to set dies. If you have a custom chamber your method is necessary preferably measured from a chamber cast.
Been loading about 4 yrs now and like to tumble mine three times. I wet tumble to clean up, prep the brass then wet tumble to remove the shards and lube.After that into dry media with a dash of polish to keep the brass from tarnishing. I load for autos and use the small base dies just check a few in the chamber and Case Length/Headspace Gauge. Just my way.
Just starting to order the supplies to dive into the world of ammo reloading. Your videos have been very helpful and informative. Two quick questions I have are, 1: Does it matter what grit Walnut media you run in your dry tumbler? and 2: Is removing the military crimp on the primer pocket a one time issue only on previously unreloaded ammo?
Walnut media is only for extremely dirty or corroded brass and is very aggressive. Use OO or OOO corn cob. Smaller is better because it won't stick in flash hole. BTW, you can get polishing media in bulk from metal finishers for almost nothing.
That Lee case length trimmer is too slow for bulk work because of need to chamfer as a separate step. The Lee Power Quick Trim eliminates that step for not much more.
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I am OLD school, reloading for 25 years plus. I use a Hornady case trimmer which I have replaced the cutter once. I like the RCBS primer pocket swager to remove military crimps. I have had exceptional life out of military LC head stamps brass. Lately I have picked up AMI head stamp brass of great quality. I believe this comes from Australia, a mystery on how it came here. I clean my brass with a RCBS ultrasonic cleaner which works well. My 223 hand loads typically shoot 1 MOA or better. I enjoy your videos and have learned much, and yes as an old dog I have learned new tricks. I am retired Navy - 76 years young.
What do you mix in your ultrasonic?
@@4jeffgordon I use RCBS ULTRASONIC formula 20-1, following instructions on the container.
homemade induction annealer
Giraud Triway cutter
Hornady lock-n-load press with primer pocket swage kit
loading bulk brass without tools like these is tortue
I have been prepping 5.56 casings most of this morning (instead of running the pressure washer and lawn mower). And finally now, after about 400 of them, I see your video.
doing it his way is torture, especially if you're doing more than 50 casings
build an induction annealer (search "home made induction annealer and there's a great how to on accurateshooters forum)
Giraud triway trimmer (amazeballz)
Hornady lock-n-load progressive press with their lock-n-lock primer pocket swage kit
you're hands will thank you time and time again when using these tools for bulk prep
Ive watched this a couple of times now i started watching videos i have been hand loading for a couple of years at this point if you are new and watching this for homework then your starting out smart do the home work it helps even if its to refresh youur memories on the process start out with the caliber you shoot the most and add on from there
Great video. I really enjoyed it. I wanted to see the process for prepping 5.56 mil brass.
I like how you pay attention to detail. I'm a brand new reloader.I'm watching your video from start to end to learn how to do it. Thanks man.
Older school reloader. Most of it is for hunting but I'm always thinking about clean shots... Recently retired and looking for easier ways to do the job.
Normal Steps:
1. Print my reloading note... basically the short list that is here. Keeps me from repeating/skipping steps.
2. Collect all the brass of the same size.
3. Run the brass through the home made dry abrasive tumbler with corn cob.
4. Lube and resize/deprime
5. Run the brass back through the abrasive tumbler to get rid of the lube.
6. Clean primer pocket (just got a Frankford Arsenal Platinum trimmer. Gotta recommend it. Less times picking the brass up)
7. Swage the primer pocket (put the swager on the Frankford)
8. Check length on all the brass. Toss long stuff in a bin to be resized later.
9. Double check primer pockets to ensure no tumbling media is in them.
10. Prime
11. If I'm working on test loads I'll just prime the brass and box it. Remember the reloading note from step 1? write down primer type and keep it in the box.
12. If I'm doing full reloads I'll go ahead and use the RCBS auto powder measure and press a bullet in.
13. Drop each round into a bullet size check. I think that mine is from Lee. Ensures clean loading in all firearms.
14. Take to the range and test a few.
After seeing your process I'll probably purchase a casing comparitor (?sp) and maybe the gauge for length checking the untrimmed brass.
Always looking for ways to speed up the process. I'll load 500 or more in a run. That gives me ammo for a couple of years hunting.
I'm new to reloading . .I reload just like this . Nice and slow, and no skipping steps...
Thanks for getting back to your 223/5.56 roots that you started your channel with! Its my favorite caliber to reload and shoot.
I do not reload. I have been watching reloading videos for sometime now. I will probably start reloading pretty soon. I loved your video. Very informative. Thank you for sharing.
I have been reloading for a few years now but only straight wall cases for pistol. Looking to start reloading rifle and was mainly looking for order of the steps...the video was great and gave me the info I needed. Appreciate the time you took to explain the tools and the process.
Thanks for the video. I have worked mill brass through trial and error years ago. I hated the learning curve but have it down pretty good. I use same process but slightly different tools. I swage my primer hole with an RCBS tool. And trim the cases with a Lyman lathe type tool with my drill. Additionally the type of brass coming from a military full auto is tough to size for me. And I have had many broken decapping pins broken. I need pins from Tungsten. Thanks again!!
I usually prep 2-500 pieces of .223-5.56 at a time so I bought a Lee APP and the swaging kit. I already had a Lee Universal Decapping die. Makes a world of difference in the time it takes to do basic brass prep before resizing.
I set up and ran my brand new APP press just last night, I deprimed and resized 2000 5.56 cases, then installed the Lee primer pocket swager and ran them all through again, I stood at that press for about 8 hours last night😂. The APP press is amazing though, I can't imagine how long it would have taken to run 2k cases if I didn't have an automatic case feeder.
why would you only prep 2 pieces? 🤔
in all seriousness, a Giraud Triway cutter and a homemade induction annealer would make prep even easier for you ;)
@@AmericanNationalist852 that's 200-500 and I have a Giraud trimmer for competition stuff. Range fodder get prepped with a drill and a Lee trim die. :)
I'm a Greek army sniper AND a Quartermaster! Don't ask me how I did this. I did it... I get a ton of used brass from the range and I definitely can get a lot of this brass for reloading. I'm not special forces and we don't have match ammo in the infantry. I've checked some lots of DM41 7,62 and found many inconsistencies in the load. I'm talking about 0,5 to 1 grain from bullet to bullet. This is a nightmare for me in the range. I want to get started on reloading and your video got me fired up. Thanks for the links :)
I love that everyone’s process is a little different. I do pretty much the exact same process with the exact same tools, but I always decap ad tumble up front then brush and wipe the case at the end.
Thanks for sharing. I have been considering reloading but I wanted to know the equipment and process.
Just starting and doing research. Got a batch prepped and about to start loading. Good to watch videos by people with experience for a sanity check and to pick up stuff that's not written in the book.
Thanks for doing the video.
I wet tumble, dry, then lube with 10:1 alcohol/lanolin and let dry. Resize then wet tumble again. Run through a frankford case prep center then load progressively on a pro 1000. Cases shine like gold and look brand new. I used to trim like this but it’s hard on the fingers doing batches of several hundred. Might invest in a wft.
Lanolin sizing lube sucks ass. Unique case lube rules them all. Period. End of story. No contest. The little can of it will literally last tens of thousands of rounds. I bought 2 cans and i fully expect them to last me the rest of my life. if you can see it on your casings you're using too much.
Had stuck cases with lanolin, one shot, etc.... NEVER a single one with unique.
Your system is very similar to mine.
I use a universal deprimer, then use the crimp remover and flash hole uniformer. I also use a primer pocket brush at this stage.
Next, I use my sonic cleaner and dry my brass in the oven at 120 degrees for an hour.
At this point I anneal my brass..
My next step is to size, trim, chamfer and deburr, followed by another trip through the sonic cleaner and dried in the oven.
Once the brass cools, it's dumped into an old ice cream bucket, ready to be loaded.
After its first prep the process remains the same other than not having to remove the crimp or uniform the flash hole.
I bought my first press a month ago..lee pro 1000... I've been watching everything under the sun and bought all the tools n things I need to start loading 223 n 9mm...I'm getting anxious no doubt but I want to make sure I'm ready cause wen it's on..it's no stopping..thank for the video,🤙🤙
Ben reloading for over 40 and you or doing it right good show keep it up
I've collected 556 223 brass from shooting for the last year couple 1000 casings...I just bought 223 dies n wanna brush up on some basics so I know what to expect..thanx for great content...
Every handloader has his own way to process his brass & build his handloads. It is interesting to see how others do it, sometimes we find ways to improve our own methods.
Pro tip, use a universal primer remover and remove the primer before taking shoulder measurements. If you don't, your measurements will likely be off between .002-.004" to long. I'd also recommend finding your rifles chamber's headspace measurements because I've seen a significant difference in my chamber compared to other chambers, I had some "range pickup" brass last time I did a batch that was near .015" over my chamber... those came from a full auto.
i also pick up range brass so i dont know much between is it 556 or 223 but hoping it doesnt matter. im trying to reload for my 223 remington bolt action but having an issue where the bolt wont close. Im using full length dies but wondering if i should switch to small base dies and also not sure if i may be doing other things wrong. got any advice?
The Universal Decapping Die is the tits! A must have for the handloader.
Great video. Awesome detail.
I’ve been reloading for several years. Always stuff to learn for sure.
Thank you
I have TONS, (well, not actual TONS), but i have mucho 5.56/.223 brass and with the price of ammo, I decided to start loading my rifle ammo, I purchased a few bricks of primers for rifle a few years back and some IMR-3031, never loaded. But recently I found some WIN 748 and I decided to start. I purchase all the tools I needed and I am getting ready, we de-capped over 1K round recently and found most of them crimp, so that will be the next step, but for the non-crimped brass, we are going to expect, resize, trim, (if needed) and then load some test rounds. I have bee loading Pistol for over 30 years, just never owned a rifle up until 2007, started with an AR and then a Rem 700, not up to my second AR and a really nice M1A. Great Vid, gives really great information.
I am just getting my tools and parts together. Got my hands on a good amount of military brass and glad to have found this video. Very informative and I appreciate you leaving the link to the tools and parts you use. I’ve subscribed to see more
Haven’t started reloading yet but am just trying to learn! Thanks for the tips
More people are getting into reloading 👍, range picking brass is even getting difficult to find
I am just starting. Really doing research before I unbox and get started. Finally got primers so now I am going to start getting things together. Thanks for this detailed but easy to follow video.
I appreciate your content, and your presentation style. Keep up the great work.
Almost 50 here and started reloading with family at home in the 80’s. Lots of Lee equipment, don’t really remember any other brands except I think I have a memory of an orange dry media tumbler. Despite a lifetime of shooting and some early reloading experience, there’s plenty more for me to learn. I’m just branching out to a progressive press for reloading pistol, have never reloaded for handguns. Really only started into metallic to load .32 WS, which is pretty much obsolete. Hornady leverevolution powder with FTX bullets is a game changer for my lever guns.
Your emphasis on primer seat prep is understandable. Seating primers in some of that 223 brass takes ridiculous torque in my Redding big boss 2 which is uncomfortable for me and likely more so for a rank beginner. I just bought a bunch of starline brass for .300 Blk to avoid dealing with it. Life is short.
Btw I bet your MEC applies more torque than my Redding. I’ve owned hydraulic MEC 9000’s for shotshell reloading but they are sheet metal and stamped parts and while perfectly serviceable, I was ruined by Spolar, which is an aluminum CnC work of art. That MEC with its massive cylinder looks sweet.
I like that you use inexpensive tech when it serves just as well. The Lee case length trimmer is a good example. I use these but I chuck mine up in the lathe. I use Lee dies, bullet sizer, hardness tester.
Everyone has their own priorities when reloading. I appreciate accuracy but don’t shoot benchrest and don’t require .223 or .300 Blk to shoot better than I can. So I’m looking for efficiency over concentricity, etc, and just bought a Hornady lock n load to knock out more of my reloading tasks.
For anyone who is ok paying for convenience I’d buy a CH4D primer swage die. About 2 seconds per crimped brass. Also an RCBS case trimmer with the RCBS 3 way cutter and power adaptor will save a ton of time by trimming chamfering and deburring at once. You can also rig the handle with paracord to use your foot to lock/unlock the brass in the trimmer and keep your right hand on the drill and left hand handling brass. I’ve been at this a few years and definitely have learned what is worth the cost. There’s a lot that I would do differently if just starting out
Thanks, I learned something watching this that explained why my reloaded 223 got stuck in the chamber. Didn't get the neck sized down enough. I've since bought that stainless gauge that you drop the brass in. The RCBS deburring tool gets rid of the primer crimps. Thanks a bunch for this video.
I started reloading as a way to have some sort of "self reliance" and figured better to master my technique before hard times.... I started about 3 months before COVID with a Lee single stage. I luckily bought a nice chunk from a broken fireplace worth of primers and then have been bilking up on powders since. I get my brass free by simply helping local range clean up. I upgraded to a pro 1000 9mm kit during COVID and my bumhole is still sore from the price raping I took on it but was well worth it in long run. Bought a load master press as a long term storage press to put up and also just got a pro 4000 223 kit. I enjoy the reloading (most of time) of 9mm and am currently looking for a faster way to check brass length as I'm now doing 223 which is a bit more prep intensive... That's what brought me here. Checking 1 case at a time is slow.
Giraud Tri-way cutter. Thank me later.
Also build an induction annealer. Again, thank me later.
I'm new to reloading. Thank you for taking time to do this .
Getting ready to start reloading pistol & rifle and watching to pick up instructions and tips before I start. Thanks for informative video
About to start reloading again after a 30 year hiatus. Getting up the learning curve watching YT videos.
Rehabbed my Dads 1970’s era Rock Chucker Jr.
Midway USA order due delivery today! Start w .223 cartridges!
Great video.
I'm new to reloading.
You've given me a new perspective to case prep.
I'm starting out with 5000 pieces of expended brass, in .45, .38, 9mm, .223/5.56 and .308. Cleaning has been a bummer. I only have about 1000 pieces of 9mm that remain to be cleaned. Case prep will be my next step. ( primers were removed before the cleaning process)
I was going to buy a 5 station prep machine but now I'm contemplating just chucking up individual tools into multiple drills for efficiency.
Again, thanks for the alternative ideas.
I mark my 223 brass with an archival permanent ink pad on the head stamp. This makes it easy to separate out my brass from others that get picked up at the range.
I’m still experimenting with the exact shoulder bump needed, but it’s looking like a Full Length die set to full insertion is only pushing 2-3 mills for my fire formed cases. Seems to wood good in my chamber.
I enjoyed your explanations - very clear with some great time saving ideas. Everyone else I’ve listened to advises cleaning the brass in advance of sizing to ensure dirt and grit don’t affect the brass sizing or damage the sizing dies.
I love your process. It is very efficient and straight forward!
Thank you!
this is literally the most inefficient way to process brass lol
I’m looking to get back in to reloading, I have loaded 45 ACP in the past. I got out of shooting do to career obligations. I retired a year ago, I’ve invested in more relocating equipment for rifle. Now I need small rifle primers. It’s always something. Thanks for the video.
Just getting started on 5.56/223 still buying pieces I have most of what you showed but still need to get tumbler I started with 9mm just built a AR-15 .
Great video man, I have my first press, dies, and a bunch of 556 brass on the way so this was super helpful to see the processing ahead of actually loading. Thanks man!
Just started reloading. Until the Keebler elves start putting primers on the shelves I’m left with learning.
Awesome information and video!!
What company is that case trimmer u used in your drill? I looked in your list it’s not there and I like that one with the pin set to what length it needs
I used the Lyman Case Prep Center. Switching from a drill to that really made a difference in how much brass I can prep before I get tired. There is an adapter to use the Lee trimmer
Agreed, The Lyman prep center rules. Set up correctly, it is a quick & smooth process that gives very accurate results in a short time.
Also agree on the Lyman Case Prep Xpress.
I have mine set up, counterclockwise, to debur, chamfer, flash hole debur, primer pocket uniform and clean.
I've had it since 2016 and I use it a lot to process 223, 300 Blackout, and 300 HAM'R.
Mine sits on a table next to my TV chair so I can accomplish something while my brain turns to mush.
Excellent presentation, very informative and easy to understand. Haven’t started yet, still gathering all my equipment, but I will defiantly look for your videos to help me along. One thing my mentor told me about is if you want your brass clean use your drill and case holder and hold 1000 grit steel wool to the rotating brass, really shines it up very nice, very quick….
RCBS is a shell holder #10. I had a #4 and was having issues of bending the rim a little on brass that was pretty tight pulling out of the sizing die. Had to throw that brass out.
I'm new to this. Watching LOTS of content and buying tools. You explain things very well. Subscribed.
Thanks for this. You showed me the one tool I don't have...the crimp removal tool. I've heard of them but don't have one...yet.
Really enjoyed this upload. I'm not new to reloading but watching how someone else treats the process is always informative and educational. Keep up the fine work and thanks for posting. MB
Brand new to reloading. Just got my press, dies, and tumbler. Watching videos for step by step directions.
When I cut the crimp rings I use a ballistic tool primer go/no-go gauge. They make one for small and large primer pockets It’s under $20 an you know for sure the primers will seat well or use it to see if the pocket are stretched out on brass that’s been fired multiple times. Great vid WDS
Yes, an excellent must have tool. without it is just guess work.
Great tool to have but if the brass has a crimp it hasn't stretched yet.
Use the RCBS Brass Boss. Works great.
Thanks for the video, I’ve been wanting to find a way to specifically reload military crimped 5.56 and this video was awesome!
Very good. I’ve been reloading for a few years, I wet tumble with pins after I de-prime. I never used the comparator that’s attached to your calipers, maybe later. I use standard base dies not small base.
Haven't started yet but planning on it. This was a excellent video, explanation of each step was really good. I really like all your videos, clear and informative, great job!
Good video and comments Logan. I’m in the process of resetting up my reloading station after a two year hiatus due to moving and I’m enjoying setting it up right this time. A few tools I’ve enjoyed are the Frankfort Arsenal wet tumbler and case prep machine and the Little Crow Worlds Best Case trimmer on a WEN 8” table top drill press. I use the RCBS Rock Chucker IV as I’m more interested in accuracy than speed and I find if you get into a rhythm you can knock out batch loads pretty quick. When we were stuck in the house for Covid I sat out in the garage, listened to books on tape and prepped 3500+ rounds of once fired Lake City 556, by the time you get that many done you have the bugs worked out. By the way Logan, I bought the UP15 complete rifle, best shooting 223 I’ve ever shot, shot in a 500yd shoot in May, came in 5th only behind the high dollar Creedmoor Chassis guns so thanks for you reviews.
I would HIGHLY recommend a 3 way case trimmer! I do 1k rounds at a time and it saves a ton of time on case prep. I usually swage and chamfer my primer pockets, but I may try one of those military crimp tools.
This is an excellent video for beginners. And I consider myself one. The corn cob media will give a great shine but it creates an added step of clearing the flash hole.
Use a smaller grade media but always check.
Good video. However, I have a few questions. The first is where do I obtain a comparator die? I have looked high and low and cannot find one. Also, the military crimp removal….is that just for .223/5.56 rounds or can that be used for all rounds?
Hey @WestDesertShooter, excellent video. What are the tools you're using for trimming. That setup is slick and I want it.
Great info. I’m doing all my research right now on reloading. I will be starting with .223/5.56.
My questions: Is it necessary to use a primer pocket uniformer after taking the crimp out?
When is it necessary to use a primer pocket uniformer?
Good basic case prep.I'm recommending it to a friend.
Great explanation and steps...im just starting.....e.g. waiting for delivery of first reload equipment purchase...haha...buckets of brass from years of shooting on tap
I have found that 223/5.56 is very thin at the neck and splits easily. My solution is to anneal the neck area by setting up a cordless drill with a hex to 1/4 in drive adapter connected to the appropriate size 1/4" deep socket. Using a hose clamp or ziptie, set the rpms of the cordless drill to about 2-3 revolutions per second. This helps keep heating uniform. Use a metal container with 3-4 inches of water to collect the heated brass and quickly cool them. A propane torch with a medium flame is used for heat. Place the water container under the ends of the deep socket and get started. Heat the neck of the case and dump them in the water to quench and anneal. Watch the color of the brass as you heat it. A blue or gray line will appear about the shoulder and I quench when this color change line advances to about 1/4 inch below the shoulder. Just tip the heated case toward the water to dump it without having to touch that fingerprint removing piece of hot brass. It's vital that your water is deep enough to completely submerge each case at first touch. I do this after the first clean, deprime and resize, basically just before I reprime the cases. Though a person could anneal before the deprime/resize process.
With surplus brass, wouldn't it be best to completely resize to SAAMI with a full-length die for the first resizing? Then after they've been fired in your own rifle, resize to the 3-thou shoulder bump?
Yes. With surplus brass you resize to SAAMI spec first, then fire it in your rifle. Then set your shoulder bump based on your rifle.
If you don't, you're making the assumption that your chamber is exactly the same as the chamber of the rifle it was first shot in. That assumption would be wrong.
Great video Logan, I’m sure in two years you’ve picked up more tools to make the job easier as I have. Couple things you’ve done is using a small base resizer that works in both your AR and bolt action is a big plus. I also have a Uintah UP15 and I just necksize at least twice since they’re fire formed. I saw something a few days ago that I liked, a guy bought an extra drum for his wet tumbler and puts walnut shells and a little car wax in to do the initial cleaning before he starts the process. Like you I download a book on my phone and knock out a hundred or so rounds so they’re ready for priming, powder and bullets. Subscribed
One id like to know were i can get that old school reload book.
And were can i get those extra tools the flash hole trimmer. Primer and ur little case trimmer i like that
I have reloaded pistol for years. Just getting into 223. Great video. I am going to use lee full length rezing die. Is This shoulder bump stuff critical? I purchased a comparator. I have collected a ton of range pickup brass.
I’m new to reloading.. tools and target recommended this video to learn about the Compartor head space gauge
I have a dollar tree wire frame waste basket in a bucket and just dump the tumbler in to it and the shake the basket to remove the walnut materials. Works great, but dusty.
Just got over 2,000 .223/5.56 cases and getting ready to prep them. I need to set up stations that I can quickly do all these steps.
I use the 21st century reloading primer pocket uniformer . The pockets on military brass are very inconsistent
You can also swage the primer pocket. This doesn't remove material which is always good
Great video My Friend
For any newbies watching I highly recommend the Lyman case prep Xpress and the WFT trimmer. Really speeds things up. I also do the same thing for pistol and rifle. Get a bunch of brass prepped and primed so when I'm ready I just have to drop powder, seat and crimp
Wtf trimmer is pricey but after you start using one, you’ll forget about the price.
I have the lyman case prep express and the lyman case trim express both work really well with eachother
I do this but... I use an electric drill and it has a locking on/ off button, get a 15 degree counter sink for sheet metal chuck it up stick it in the vice and turn it on and feed it brass 1 second each and it cuts the crimp up to a perfect bevel I have learned that the whole crimp does not need to expanded just the first couple of hundreds or so and the new primer goes right in , just speeds things up a bit and you don't have to hold the drill.
Starting for the first time for me. This video was super helpful
I have not reloaded anything yet but am trying to research the best information I can. I have a dillon reloader and want to reload pistol and rifle loads. thanks for your time and information.
Thanks for the video! I have been reloading for a few years now and was wondering if I was chamfering the inside to much. I definitely was going a bit overboard. They are a little sharp so hopefully that’s not to bad…
Thank you for a well done informative case prep lesson!
do you have a video going over your entire reloading setup, table, etc. Gonna start reloading and want to get my set up just right.
Pretty close I have a video called does a cheap reloading kit last. That covers the tools I currently have
Kindred reloading spirits. Subscribed, bell rung, commented, upvoted, liked, shared ... may the algorithm gods smile favorably upon your channel. I do mine well in advance, hundreds at a time, for my PSA Sabre SASS M110 20" clone.
New to reloading. Enjoy and like you process.
Could you do a video n how you clean up your press?
Regarding cleaning brass, I always dry tumble before decapping, decap the case, clean and condition the primer pocket and flash hole, go-no go the primer pocket, measure case length, trim if necessary, anneal the cases, lube the cases with Imperial lube, case size with the sizing die and the neck expander ball removed, lube the neck with graphite lube, expand the necks with a mandrel, check the neck inside diameter with the Pin Gage. Last step is to check the case neck run-out. If the run-out is 0.000 - .003, they are good. more than .003, I resize to try and get a better run-out. If now less than .003", ok. If .0035 to .005, target only, not for hunting. Over .005, discard. Then, after all this, I do a final wet tumble and thoroughly dry the cases which removes ALL inside material, metal, neck lubricants, case lubricants and provides a final polish. After the cases are dry, check for any stuck pins in the primer pockets or lying inside the case. Now my cases are ready to be primed and loaded.
New to reloading, doing some homework! thanks!
If you want to remove more of that tarnished brass look where it is more brown use vinegar in a wet tumbler with steel pins - works wonders.
I perform to same steps only I deprime and basic clean first.
I pretty much follow your process, using all lee stuff.
I dont clean the primer pockets orchamfer the case neck,hell sometimes I dont tumble I just wipe the case off.
I'm new to the reloading and have a great teacher. But would you recommend using lake city brass over any other 223 brass?
Cant seem to find that case trimmer anywhere. I'm probably not calling it by the right name. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I don’t understand the purpose of the comparator measurement, if you just resize the brass and it fits the case gauge, isn’t that now an in spec case?
Yes, it’s a double check. Either way works. Using the comparator you know exactly how much it’s been sized. The case gage is just a go or no go. Good question
@@WestDesertShooter I was also confused about the comparator, especially where you got the target -.003" measurement from, I think I may understand now though, thanks for making these videos!
@@WestDesertShooter The problem is, if it's unknown brass, it could be fired in many different chambers so the first measurement is totally arbitrary.
The gage is 'go-no go' off the shoulder specifically designed to set dies.
If you have a custom chamber your method is necessary preferably measured from a chamber cast.
Been loading about 4 yrs now and like to tumble mine three times. I wet tumble to clean up, prep the brass then wet tumble to remove the shards and lube.After that into dry media with a dash of polish to keep the brass from tarnishing. I load for autos and use the small base dies just check a few in the chamber and
Case Length/Headspace Gauge. Just my way.
Just starting to order the supplies to dive into the world of ammo reloading. Your videos have been very helpful and informative. Two quick questions I have are, 1: Does it matter what grit Walnut media you run in your dry tumbler? and 2: Is removing the military crimp on the primer pocket a one time issue only on previously unreloaded ammo?
Not sure if there are choices on grit. 2, yea it is a one time removal and it’s ready
Walnut media is only for extremely dirty or corroded brass and is very aggressive. Use OO or OOO corn cob. Smaller is better because it won't stick in flash hole.
BTW, you can get polishing media in bulk from metal finishers for almost nothing.
Just starting reloading, great video 👍
That Lee case length trimmer is too slow for bulk work because of need to chamfer as a separate step. The Lee Power Quick Trim eliminates that step for not much more.
Of all three cleaning methods I feel wet media tumbeling is the best
Great video. New to reloading. Thanks for the assistance