Amazon purchase link-- amzn.to/3O5qfVf Official purchase link---- bit.ly/fosiaudiov3 Aliexpress purchase link- www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005605031795.html 12$ off promo code: FAV3ZRS12 (works for all platforms) ⚔www.SubscribeStar.com/Zeos -- Support the Channel on SubscribeStar 🥇www.Patreon.com/Zeos -- Support the Channel on Patreon
The real revolution is the Texas Instruments IC chips that these low cost high performance amplifiers are built around. Kudos to Fosi & Ayima in applying those chips, pioneering low cost & high performance amplifier products. Established companies (like Yamaha, etc.) need to do the same with their receivers, lowering cost & raising performance at the same time. Credit companies like Texas Instruments (❤ to Texas), who is continuing to design better class D amplifiers while keeping the cost low, charging just $6 per chip from Mauser electronics. We live in a new golden age of amplifiers.
I’ve been playing with the V3 for a while using the 48V 5A power supply and let me tell you, this thing really benefits from active cooling. When it gets warm the sound quality falls apart quite a bit. What I discovered is that a computer fan set at a low speed brings the case down to near ambient temps so it doesn’t take much but it’s really worth doing.
if your v3 is getting very hot i would recommend trying new thermal paste and adding some to the metal that touches the case in between the heatsink and case has none. i did this to mine when i swapped opamps to OPA1656. but my main point is im running the v3 with 48v 7.3a and was using it with a 48v 10a and never had a problem with heat at all, my dac gets more warm in the stack than the v3
I have not noticed this at all and i get loud enough for me. 85 to 90db. Maybe you are even talking louder. I don't play thunderously loud metal music or anything though so maybe that is the difference. I do love good bass slam and this little amp delivers. Shocked actually!
For the record, into 4 ohms the V3 has been measured at ~140W per channel with the 48v power supply. It's around 60W per channel with the stock PSU. Not that it matters unless you have a huge impedance spike in your speakers response
Yay, I'm sooo glad you and Fosi got in touch for this as I tried to tell ya about it in email, lol. They had like 20 of their customers provide input on something next level. The swappable op amps are even better with Sparkos. The heatsink is now away from capacitors underneath the board and better airflow means less deterioration of the caps long term. Have you seen the guts inside? Top shelf... so happy my favorite reviewer got his hands on a product I feel a part of and thanks to Fosi for their listening and production of something so valuable for the price point. They even are now an authorized resales for Sparkos op amps since so many swap for them, so the future looks pretty interesting
I would not stretch too much and say the V3 components are Top Shelf, there is still room for improvement. Its Elna capacitors are the bottom of Elna audio grade capacitors. The Elna Silmic II, Those are top shelf, or Nichicon Muse UKZ or Fine Gold UFG. But I get your point, the V3 uses better components than the competition and other Fosi amplifiers. If you are handy at Soldering, you could replace those components yourself.
One thing that is important is that lab ppwer supply is no doubt better than the ppwer bricks they send with everything these days. One potential reason why it's more quiet. I have thought of getting a big lab ppwer supply in the past for diy projects or for powering other things. Most of them have great specs, they are cheap and so many brands as they have been making them for many years. Thanks for the entertainment !
Z, thanks for finally linking something to look at your homemade cable, been wondering what that was for WEEKS. That's how you run headphones off of any of your speaker amps??
I wanted to support you with your Amazon link Zeos but Amazon screwed me on delivering my BT20a Pro(to replace Topping MX3 powering RB42's from previous recommendations), so I ended up cancelling the order and order directly from Fosi for $115.99 with the 48V power supply vs $99.99 on Amazon with the 32V power supply.
I'd like to test if the variable power supply is changing anything itself. In other words test it with the bricks Fosi sells. And for speakers use Klipsch (high sensitivity) vs Micca RB42. I can tell you because I tried the speakers, the Miccas walk all over the Klipsch but you have to crank the volume knob to do it. With Miccas you really need the 48v brick, with Klipsch you don't. They both sound good depending on if you like the speakers sound signature. edit: wrote this before I saw the entire video
Since you were the one who turned me on to Micca RB42s, I have to tell you they sound awesome with a BT20a Pro. I had them with a Klipsch R-100sw but they didn't need it at all. I'm using the stock 32v power supply so I had to turn the volume up to 3/4 but it sounded awesome. I'm using Klipsch R-41ms until I upgrade the power supply (I want the Sparkos op amps too), but they need the sub and imho don't sound as good as the MIccas loud. edit: wrote this before I saw the entire video.
@@fosiaudio I was just trying to say I had to turn the knob farther with the Miccas than I do with the Klipsch to get the same sound levels. With the Klispch I don''t feel like i need the 48v power supply, but I do need the powered subwoofer. With the Micca RB42s I needed the 48v power supply but not the subwoofer. My plan is to do it all. RB42 plus 48v plus Sparkos op amp plus Klipsch subwoofer. Wiim mini to SMSL SU-1 for source.
The amp using the 48 v power supply puts out 161 watts & headroom 191 watts reviewed by audioscience. The smsl a300 in bride mode put out 400 watts per channel.
Just bought the V3 along with those $99 Jamo S803 yesterday. Probably way overkill, figure it'll handle beefier speakers when I upgrade down the road. Now considering swapping the V3 for the BT20a Pro for the tone controls.
I have both but prefer the V3. Z repeatedly said the V3 and BT20A Pro have the same internals, they do not. Looks up photos, the V3 has two massive caps the size of your thumbs, the BT20A Pro does not. Also see ASR measurements, both are better than the TB10D but the V3 is king and you can hear it. I’m a little surprised Z didn’t hear it. When listening to both the V3 has better, flatter bass extension with a slightly cleaner, more delicate sound. The tone controls are pretty nice on the BT20A Pro but I’d still recommend the V3 over it if you can work on your room to minimize you need for EQ. The BT has a really inconvenient Bluetooth implementation, it is very annoying to switch between inputs because as soon as the device is on it connects. Reset to unpair. Works fine in either mode, just not both regularly.
i run two v3s from a schiit syn to get surround sound (two polk psw-10s, two polk es-30s , polk cs-10? for center and some polk blackstone for surrounds. my mains sparkos v3 amp has a 48v power supply and i do use a cheap beringer 9 band eq for tweaking. i gotta say every time i think i might replace it with something....when i dial it in, i get a fantastic sound and say, ok...im good. i get no hiss at all. for a small black metal box for 100 usd.....it really does deliver.
You Z are the one that got me into the MB42 and 42x's back in like 2016 lol... I now rock the rb42's myself big Micca fan... to see you use the rb42's in this vid is pretty awesome dude.
@@SpirallingOut powered the 1.6s beautifully. But sold 1.6s for a pair of 3.5s. the V3 powers them great at normal listening levels, tried to see what their limit was and tripped the built in protection in them. Waited 5 minutes and it was running just fine again. But at the time I didn't test with a sub & xOver so it might just be drawing too much to fully handle the bass at that volume level. I was also driving at uncomfortably loud listening volumes. Bought another one to try to bi-amp and see if that will handle things. Because if this tiny little amp can power giant Magnepans properly then I can't think of a reason to keep my crown power amps which are massive in comparison; not to mention more expensive. So long story short they should absolutely be able to handle the LRS+, .7, or the 1.7i. just need to see if they have enough headroom to push the 3 series if bi-amped.
@@josephshim2744 That's amazing! I bought one to pair with the Modhouse Tungsten after they finally release, but now I'm thinking I just might also put aside some pennies for a couple more V3s with the 48V/5A power supply and power a couple of LRS+ and 2 servo subs. The LRS+ have been my endgame speaker ever since they released and I started seeing people compare how good they were to other, insanely expensive speakers. Problem was they often were paired with really expensive amplification to wake them up. I'm absolutely chuffed I can power them for a couple of hundred dollars now that LRS+ has gone up in price over here. I'll have to try rolling V3 op-amps for the Maggies too. I hear Burson, Orange, Sparkos and a few others do some really good sounding ones, with a little case modification with a Dremel for clearance. I plan to try them all for the Tungsten too. Thanks for the info.
Something tells me that your 48v silver power supply that you built is way better than the 48v power supply that they sell you for $50. Could be wrong but yours looks like a tank of engineering. I have the V3 and would be tempted to by the RB42's if that $50 48v power supply were actually really a good one. Anybody?
Tank Girl Background! Woot! Hard to Drive 4 ohm Speakers? Magnepans are kinda the go too for hard to drive speakers. Mid 90s Thiel speakers had a reputation for being hard to drive as well.
I'm sold micca rb42 and the fosi v3 with the 48v power supply for the extra $50.. but I'd like to use my phone or my tablet as music source what you guys recommend? Something on the price range like this fosi would be awesome.. 😎
I have the second version of the Emotiva a-100 amp and I can verify that it powers 4ohm loads just fine, though the cooling could use bolstering. I have mine under a big fan so it's cooled a bit.
The internals and engineering of the v3 is the most diferential aspect vs other amps with the same chip. Haven't tried it, but the general opinion seems to be it has an overall better performance because of that.
Yes. The V3 is the first to offer a decent quality components: coupling capacitors and output filters inductors and capacitors. All these amplifiers have a very similar design. The difference lies on the components. Having said so, you can always upgrade your amplifier components to whatever you prefer. The problem with the BT20a pro is Fosi failed on the coupling capacitors and on the output filter capacitors. But they did correct them on the V3. Unfortunately, there is no room for inductors upgrade like Wurth or Coilcraft (expensive ones) like the ones Topping used on the PA5. Those inductors make all the difference in the world. The A07 does have room for that upgrade.
@fosiaudio well, it is not as simple as replacing the Opamps. But if you are handy with a soldering iron, you can do it yourself. The only problem I see is there is no room for those (Coilcraft or Wurth) inductors. The latest models from Fosi and Aiyima already come with very decent inductors(Sagami)
@@MiguelAngelVelazquez maybe in the future they can make that update and introduce those inductors you mention, along with a bigger casing. I don't have any soldering experience/ knowledge so i hope they come preinstaled.
Thank you for such a quick answer. I have q acoustics 3050i 91 db sensitivity. I love your videos, you do a great job on RUclips. My next purchase will be Swans m300mk2. Is the sweet spot of these speakers narrow? Because I want to buy them for the living room and I don't always sit in the middle.
This V3 togehter with the P3 and the K5Pro DAC will be one of the most interesting hifi setup for starters and users...find some nice speakers and you are ready for a long time.
The posi v3 and posi bt20a have different heat sink designs. Thus the v3 can pull a higher amp draw without heating up as much . I think, the v3 can sustain a higher output for a longer time. The v3 uses the aluminum body to dissipate heat. And the bt20a uses a conventional finned internal heat sink. I think v3 has a much better heat dissipation .
Comment #4 (for the algorithms): I remember when every vid I faved on YT would automatically be posted on my FB page. For some reason I thought it was important that all my FB friends saw every video I saw.
That pass through is no more than a Y cable. Nothing you send into the RCA goes into the Amp to come out the 3.5. You can actually use the 3.5mm as an input as well.
Would 2 of these with a pre-amp run my ohm walsh 2s? I want to get the beautiful sound out of my speakers that I know they can produce. Time for a change from my vintage marantz and Yamaha amplifier
So do you think the more efficient final production version Tungsten would benefit from the 48V/5A power supply for the V3 or is that overkill? Btw, I found both a 4x spade to 4-pin XLR and 4x locking banana plug to 4-pin XLR adapter cable, made by Mogami and FiiO just released a 4-pin XLR to 4.4mm adapter so you don't need to DIY it if you don't want to.
Nice shake down. I got one on order. 😊 so you don’t think the Japanese and German upgrade parts on the V3 make a difference over the BT 20 pro? Really?
On my Elac unifi 5.2's i had to nearly max the fosi. They sounded good but i don't like playing at 90% max volume on max gain from my pre, i like my headroom. My Aiyima A08 pro LOVES the 48v power supply and i'm running at about 33% less on the volume from the stock 32v PS.
just wondering, i was about to get a pair of speakers and im torn btw thos Micca RB42 (would get the BT20a) and the Edifier 1700BT, which one is better?
I have the rb42 powered by the v3 and they leave the 1700bt for dead. Not even in the same league. Sound is balanced and you are better of with the better sound quality than tone controls.
The bass was weak on electronic music compared to my class AB amplifier. I just ordered the other 48v power supply. So far the mids are ok but bass is poor. I'll update.
@@ZReviews JBL 4312 SE with 12 inch woofers. Might be still a tall order for these 90 DB 6 ohm speakers which are doing great with my Chord Anni @10 watts. Class AB. Have also ordered the Burson Audio time keepers monoblocks @30 watts pure Class A. So I will arrange a shootout soon!
This is Class D and that maybe not so good, but you can play music very loud,but i have for many years ago two mono blocks at 600 watts per channel ice class D,that was very good.
You should change the op amps on both amps. It makes them even better then the stock op amps. Then you can truly unleash the tiny beast to its true protential.
@@psysword You could add the Sparkos SS3602, or OPA2604 to change the sound to what you like. With the Sparkos it would then be around a $250 amp with OPA2604 about a $110 amp. For the price would be hard to beat. For getting into the hobby it is a great bang for your buck.
@@enricolisk1357 The muses02 has more of the tube feel to the music, a little darker sound. At some ranges it muddys the sound. I believe if uses it mostly for watching TV/movies it can bring something special. The OPA2604 I believe about 80% of the people will really enjoy the sound with music. It has clarity, crisp guitar strings on live music, nice full bass. Enjoyable to listen to overall. The Sparkos has more depth and width to it. It has a more natural sound to the music. For me with this amp I have to ask the dollar amount to performance is it really 3X better? I am curios about the BursonV6 op amp. A) can you set it in the slot without to much modding? B) the sound compared to the others?
Hi, I just got mine. I am having problems with getting the headphones to work. Using the 3.5 jack, for some reason it just bypass the sound. Any advice would help. Thanks for your channel Zeos.
I would go with the Bt20A Pro + QAs. Unless you're equalising at source, the tone controls on the Pro will make a far bigger difference to your listening enjoyment than the slightly better SQ of the V3.
There is more bad with the pass-through. Please test this yourself if you can. First... The pass-through works both ways... You can input via the 3.5mm too. Then you would use the RCA as outputs. Just like the Aiyima A07. It is really only a Y cable. Not even a line out. So here is the nail in the V3 coffin. I found out last night that the RCA and 3.5mm pass-through of the V3 are wired wrong and when another device is plugged into the V3, while conducting an isolated L-R stereo separation test, reveals the crossed signals. This error doesn't happen when you only use the RCA(or 3.5mm) input alone... But as soon as you plug something into the V3 for output... L-R tests reveal the cross-fed signals. When testing, the left channel will play and a reduced signal will play in the right channel too and vice versa. This should not happen. Fosi Audio obviously copied the original circuit layout of the Aiyima A07. The A07 also had this error in their first run... They did fix it... So they say... For Shame Fosi! You will have to split your signal before your V3 and feed your secondary device that way. You cannot use the pass-through in the V3. The entire first run of this device is junk for anyone needing that pass-through to work as intended. Buyer Beware!
Its good that you are exposing that you CO NOT need to spend four figures+ to drive stuff cleanly and fully - DESPITE what the chorus of "Audiophile Bros" will iterate ad nauseum. first like, first comment!!
So I bought the Fosi upgraded power supply already(bass-ackwards?). Will be getting this amp Z mentioned there was a coupon, anyone know of it? Thank you
Amazon purchase link-- amzn.to/3O5qfVf
Official purchase link---- bit.ly/fosiaudiov3
Aliexpress purchase link- www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005605031795.html
12$ off promo code: FAV3ZRS12
(works for all platforms)
⚔www.SubscribeStar.com/Zeos -- Support the Channel on SubscribeStar
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The real revolution is the Texas Instruments IC chips that these low cost high performance amplifiers are built around. Kudos to Fosi & Ayima in applying those chips, pioneering low cost & high performance amplifier products. Established companies (like Yamaha, etc.) need to do the same with their receivers, lowering cost & raising performance at the same time. Credit companies like Texas Instruments (❤ to Texas), who is continuing to design better class D amplifiers while keeping the cost low, charging just $6 per chip from Mauser electronics. We live in a new golden age of amplifiers.
And here I am with a closet full of big power amps of 200+wpc.
Thats fine.
Then you look at the snakeoil killing the industry with 10-20k amplifiers.
I’ve been playing with the V3 for a while using the 48V 5A power supply and let me tell you, this thing really benefits from active cooling. When it gets warm the sound quality falls apart quite a bit. What I discovered is that a computer fan set at a low speed brings the case down to near ambient temps so it doesn’t take much but it’s really worth doing.
if your v3 is getting very hot i would recommend trying new thermal paste and adding some to the metal that touches the case in between the heatsink and case has none. i did this to mine when i swapped opamps to OPA1656. but my main point is im running the v3 with 48v 7.3a and was using it with a 48v 10a and never had a problem with heat at all, my dac gets more warm in the stack than the v3
do you have a link to the power supply that you are using? i dont really want to buy the fosi one.@@gamerman644
I have not noticed this at all and i get loud enough for me. 85 to 90db. Maybe you are even talking louder. I don't play thunderously loud metal music or anything though so maybe that is the difference. I do love good bass slam and this little amp delivers. Shocked actually!
You can disable the bluetooth on the BT20a pro by holding in the volume knob.
Great tip... especially because no one reads the manual.
No, just reset the source
For the record, into 4 ohms the V3 has been measured at ~140W per channel with the 48v power supply. It's around 60W per channel with the stock PSU. Not that it matters unless you have a huge impedance spike in your speakers response
What was the frequency of the signal?
For how long did it measured that?
What was THD?
What was the impedance?
How many channels driven?
@mindtraveller100 Google sounds like your best option. Enjoy your specification homework 👍
@@mindtraveller100
frequency:1kHz
THD+N: -74dB
Impedance: 4 Ohm
2 channels driven
at 8 ohm you get 89W
42v or 48v?
@@ZReviews 48v, my bad. Original comment was a typo
Yay, I'm sooo glad you and Fosi got in touch for this as I tried to tell ya about it in email, lol. They had like 20 of their customers provide input on something next level. The swappable op amps are even better with Sparkos. The heatsink is now away from capacitors underneath the board and better airflow means less deterioration of the caps long term. Have you seen the guts inside? Top shelf... so happy my favorite reviewer got his hands on a product I feel a part of and thanks to Fosi for their listening and production of something so valuable for the price point. They even are now an authorized resales for Sparkos op amps since so many swap for them, so the future looks pretty interesting
I would not stretch too much and say the V3 components are Top Shelf, there is still room for improvement. Its Elna capacitors are the bottom of Elna audio grade capacitors. The Elna Silmic II, Those are top shelf, or Nichicon Muse UKZ or Fine Gold UFG.
But I get your point, the V3 uses better components than the competition and other Fosi amplifiers.
If you are handy at Soldering, you could replace those components yourself.
How about that! Rolling parts!
yeah they def worth auditioning
One thing that is important is that lab ppwer supply is no doubt better than the ppwer bricks they send with everything these days. One potential reason why it's more quiet. I have thought of getting a big lab ppwer supply in the past for diy projects or for powering other things. Most of them have great specs, they are cheap and so many brands as they have been making them for many years. Thanks for the entertainment !
British Audiophile said get one and I heard you mention it. So I got mine a couple weeks ago. It is SO clean. Best, D.
cleanest
Thank you for the Aqua Teen Hunger Force flashback. I already bought a Fosi V3. Love that little amplifier.
that unexpected rage at the end, love it :D
I use the Fosi P1 as a preamp and it has tone controls. Good review
Hello Z, hope your're doing great. What would be the best pairing for a DX3pro+...the Topping PA3s or the Fosi BTA20 Pro? Thanks!
Awesome. Hope to see more these. This is the new trend of amplifiers. A comparison of Aiyima vs Fossi?
I ordered!I like it!
And you can change the opamps in it ☝️
Z, thanks for finally linking something to look at your homemade cable, been wondering what that was for WEEKS. That's how you run headphones off of any of your speaker amps??
At 9:52 I thought that was a filter lol. Surprisingly good as mellow Donald Duck impersonations go.
Review I been waiting for…cheers bro! Ordering one ☝️
Sounds wonderful paired with the Chane A1.5, and running from the Sound Blaster AE-9!
I wanted to support you with your Amazon link Zeos but Amazon screwed me on delivering my BT20a Pro(to replace Topping MX3 powering RB42's from previous recommendations), so I ended up cancelling the order and order directly from Fosi for $115.99 with the 48V power supply vs $99.99 on Amazon with the 32V power supply.
I'd like to test if the variable power supply is changing anything itself. In other words test it with the bricks Fosi sells. And for speakers use Klipsch (high sensitivity) vs Micca RB42. I can tell you because I tried the speakers, the Miccas walk all over the Klipsch but you have to crank the volume knob to do it. With Miccas you really need the 48v brick, with Klipsch you don't. They both sound good depending on if you like the speakers sound signature. edit: wrote this before I saw the entire video
true2 expensive speaker vs headphone
Since you were the one who turned me on to Micca RB42s, I have to tell you they sound awesome with a BT20a Pro. I had them with a Klipsch R-100sw but they didn't need it at all. I'm using the stock 32v power supply so I had to turn the volume up to 3/4 but it sounded awesome. I'm using Klipsch R-41ms until I upgrade the power supply (I want the Sparkos op amps too), but they need the sub and imho don't sound as good as the MIccas loud. edit: wrote this before I saw the entire video.
You need to turn the volume up to 3/4 becuase the BT20A PRO adopts a taper A potentiometer. It's more linear for human ears.
@@fosiaudio I was just trying to say I had to turn the knob farther with the Miccas than I do with the Klipsch to get the same sound levels. With the Klispch I don''t feel like i need the 48v power supply, but I do need the powered subwoofer. With the Micca RB42s I needed the 48v power supply but not the subwoofer. My plan is to do it all. RB42 plus 48v plus Sparkos op amp plus Klipsch subwoofer. Wiim mini to SMSL SU-1 for source.
They do sound great together. I bought that for my son when he moved into his new house. He loves the setup.
far out!i nver even heard of Westworld until i was forced to watch antenna t v the other day. what a foreshadowing movie for these times.
The amp using the 48 v power supply puts out 161 watts & headroom 191 watts reviewed by audioscience. The smsl a300 in bride mode put out 400 watts per channel.
Just bought the V3 along with those $99 Jamo S803 yesterday. Probably way overkill, figure it'll handle beefier speakers when I upgrade down the road. Now considering swapping the V3 for the BT20a Pro for the tone controls.
those Jamo S803 will suprise you! i know i was blown away by them
I have both but prefer the V3. Z repeatedly said the V3 and BT20A Pro have the same internals, they do not. Looks up photos, the V3 has two massive caps the size of your thumbs, the BT20A Pro does not. Also see ASR measurements, both are better than the TB10D but the V3 is king and you can hear it. I’m a little surprised Z didn’t hear it.
When listening to both the V3 has better, flatter bass extension with a slightly cleaner, more delicate sound. The tone controls are pretty nice on the BT20A Pro but I’d still recommend the V3 over it if you can work on your room to minimize you need for EQ.
The BT has a really inconvenient Bluetooth implementation, it is very annoying to switch between inputs because as soon as the device is on it connects. Reset to unpair. Works fine in either mode, just not both regularly.
i run two v3s from a schiit syn to get surround sound (two polk psw-10s, two polk es-30s , polk cs-10? for center and some polk blackstone for surrounds. my mains sparkos v3 amp has a 48v power supply and i do use a cheap beringer 9 band eq for tweaking. i gotta say every time i think i might replace it with something....when i dial it in, i get a fantastic sound and say, ok...im good. i get no hiss at all. for a small black metal box for 100 usd.....it really does deliver.
Acoustat 1+1's would be a challenge for the V3!
If they made one that was a balanced mono block wow, that would be god like
Wow, that is a good idea!
@@fosiaudio DO IT!!
its the endless race, think ive given clear idea that one suits dap best
balanced style would just be a lowend ciems w senn price, not too appealing
It is August 2024 and there is a mono V3 with the 48 volt power supply which works with a pair of V3 Monos. $280 a pair!
Waiting for the day when Micca releases the RB-62...
I think on the BT20 a, you can press the Volume knob in to disable the Bluetooth.
Will give it a shot
You Z are the one that got me into the MB42 and 42x's back in like 2016 lol... I now rock the rb42's myself big Micca fan... to see you use the rb42's in this vid is pretty awesome dude.
Using the V3 to power my Magnepans (notoriously hard to drive), and they sound amazing.
What model? LRS+?
@@SpirallingOut powered the 1.6s beautifully. But sold 1.6s for a pair of 3.5s. the V3 powers them great at normal listening levels, tried to see what their limit was and tripped the built in protection in them. Waited 5 minutes and it was running just fine again.
But at the time I didn't test with a sub & xOver so it might just be drawing too much to fully handle the bass at that volume level. I was also driving at uncomfortably loud listening volumes.
Bought another one to try to bi-amp and see if that will handle things. Because if this tiny little amp can power giant Magnepans properly then I can't think of a reason to keep my crown power amps which are massive in comparison; not to mention more expensive.
So long story short they should absolutely be able to handle the LRS+, .7, or the 1.7i. just need to see if they have enough headroom to push the 3 series if bi-amped.
@@josephshim2744 That's amazing! I bought one to pair with the Modhouse Tungsten after they finally release, but now I'm thinking I just might also put aside some pennies for a couple more V3s with the 48V/5A power supply and power a couple of LRS+ and 2 servo subs.
The LRS+ have been my endgame speaker ever since they released and I started seeing people compare how good they were to other, insanely expensive speakers.
Problem was they often were paired with really expensive amplification to wake them up.
I'm absolutely chuffed I can power them for a couple of hundred dollars now that LRS+ has gone up in price over here. I'll have to try rolling V3 op-amps for the Maggies too. I hear Burson, Orange, Sparkos and a few others do some really good sounding ones, with a little case modification with a Dremel for clearance. I plan to try them all for the Tungsten too. Thanks for the info.
With 32v?
@@jrdelat5 48v
Something tells me that your 48v silver power supply that you built is way better than the 48v power supply that they sell you for $50. Could be wrong but yours looks like a tank of engineering. I have the V3 and would be tempted to by the RB42's if that $50 48v power supply were actually really a good one. Anybody?
It’s good and literally doubles output. Definitely a good unit
@@christophedecavalla2941 Are you speaking of the Fosi 48V?
@@RUMBLEGO1 yes the 48v power supply.
What affordable dac would you guys recommend for a 2.1 bedroom setup with this amp?
Smsl makes an adorable little unit. Su1?
anything with most details, you dont want to miss anything w these
I don't know if this was mentioned, but the BT20a Pro has an actual pre output. You can use an active Subwoofer and change the volume on the amp.
Tank Girl Background! Woot!
Hard to Drive 4 ohm Speakers? Magnepans are kinda the go too for hard to drive speakers. Mid 90s Thiel speakers had a reputation for being hard to drive as well.
I'm sold micca rb42 and the fosi v3 with the 48v power supply for the extra $50.. but I'd like to use my phone or my tablet as music source what you guys recommend? Something on the price range like this fosi would be awesome.. 😎
I have the second version of the Emotiva a-100 amp and I can verify that it powers 4ohm loads just fine, though the cooling could use bolstering. I have mine under a big fan so it's cooled a bit.
What happens if you run a pair of passive speakers and a subwoofer 150W without a preamp, (by only using the Fosi-Audio V3)? would it work?
The internals and engineering of the v3 is the most diferential aspect vs other amps with the same chip. Haven't tried it, but the general opinion seems to be it has an overall better performance because of that.
Yes. The V3 is the first to offer a decent quality components: coupling capacitors and output filters inductors and capacitors. All these amplifiers have a very similar design. The difference lies on the components. Having said so, you can always upgrade your amplifier components to whatever you prefer.
The problem with the BT20a pro is Fosi failed on the coupling capacitors and on the output filter capacitors. But they did correct them on the V3. Unfortunately, there is no room for inductors upgrade like Wurth or Coilcraft (expensive ones) like the ones Topping used on the PA5. Those inductors make all the difference in the world. The A07 does have room for that upgrade.
@@MiguelAngelVelazquez Do you mean replace inductors by yourself like op amps?
@fosiaudio well, it is not as simple as replacing the Opamps. But if you are handy with a soldering iron, you can do it yourself. The only problem I see is there is no room for those (Coilcraft or Wurth) inductors.
The latest models from Fosi and Aiyima already come with very decent inductors(Sagami)
@@MiguelAngelVelazquez maybe in the future they can make that update and introduce those inductors you mention, along with a bigger casing. I don't have any soldering experience/ knowledge so i hope they come preinstaled.
@@fosiaudio maybe this could be a way to improve your next generation of amplifiers even further 😀
Thank you for such a quick answer. I have q acoustics 3050i 91 db sensitivity. I love your videos, you do a great job on RUclips. My next purchase will be Swans m300mk2. Is the sweet spot of these speakers narrow? Because I want to buy them for the living room and I don't always sit in the middle.
????????
You will be fine with Swans in even a large room. Enjoy and thanks!
@@ZReviews THX !!! 😀
This V3 togehter with the P3 and the K5Pro DAC will be one of the most interesting hifi setup for starters and users...find some nice speakers and you are ready for a long time.
Now that's a Lab !!!
Keep in mind, that fossi v3 is best ran on a 48v 10 amp PSU! it will also run on 52v but at the risk of more heat (probably as much as +20% degrees)
The posi v3 and posi bt20a have different heat sink designs. Thus the v3 can pull a higher amp draw without heating up as much . I think, the v3 can sustain a higher output for a longer time. The v3 uses the aluminum body to dissipate heat. And the bt20a uses a conventional finned internal heat sink. I think v3 has a much better heat dissipation .
Comment #4 (for the algorithms): I remember when every vid I faved on YT would automatically be posted on my FB page. For some reason I thought it was important that all my FB friends saw every video I saw.
I literally had set to tweet every time I set up a video. When they remove that feature I was very sad
OMG, my hair, LMAO! Great vid.
What is better for a 2.1 System, Fosi-Audio V3 or SMSL A300 ????
Fosi za3 or aiyima a70
That pass through is no more than a Y cable. Nothing you send into the RCA goes into the Amp to come out the 3.5. You can actually use the 3.5mm as an input as well.
Would 2 of these with a pre-amp run my ohm walsh 2s? I want to get the beautiful sound out of my speakers that I know they can produce. Time for a change from my vintage marantz and Yamaha amplifier
Is the TB10D similar?
What is a good beginner amp speaker setup ?
Why is it so hard to find a budget amp like these with optical?
Put the rb42 passive radiators on the sides( mirror imaged, of course)
Cool test track for speakers: "Agelast" from Meat Beat Manifesto. Nice imaging and bass test. Something a little different. Cheers dude.
Where can I get said 48v power supply. Also, can you use a subwoofer? TYIA
I linked it in the description
@@ZReviews Thanks Z!
So do you think the more efficient final production version Tungsten would benefit from the 48V/5A power supply for the V3 or is that overkill? Btw, I found both a 4x spade to 4-pin XLR and 4x locking banana plug to 4-pin XLR adapter cable, made by Mogami and FiiO just released a 4-pin XLR to 4.4mm adapter so you don't need to DIY it if you don't want to.
Ive been using these fosi amps to build those portable carry around box speaker systems. Makes an ass out of the turtle box that cost $400
Planning on get one to power my Magnat transpuls 1000's
Would I be able to use this with my home theater system?
Nice shake down. I got one on order. 😊 so you don’t think the Japanese and German upgrade parts on the V3 make a difference over the BT 20 pro? Really?
they are indeed more accurate, other one like a best ramen in store, but as said, more straightforward excellency
On my Elac unifi 5.2's i had to nearly max the fosi. They sounded good but i don't like playing at 90% max volume on max gain from my pre, i like my headroom. My Aiyima A08 pro LOVES the 48v power supply and i'm running at about 33% less on the volume from the stock 32v PS.
You need to max the volume because it uses a taper A potentiometer, it is more linear for human ears.
To 100%?
Think I need should get the 48v for something like the whaferdale 12.1? does it sound better
just wondering, i was about to get a pair of speakers and im torn btw thos Micca RB42 (would get the BT20a) and the Edifier 1700BT, which one is better?
I have the 1700BT and dont really like them that much
I have the rb42 powered by the v3 and they leave the 1700bt for dead. Not even in the same league. Sound is balanced and you are better of with the better sound quality than tone controls.
Where are the links to the things, Zeos? You forgot the links to the things!
You get what you pay for. Using the 48V 5A power supply, it can be a fire hazard. Spend a little more and get the Sony STR-DH190 ( $149.00 @ BB).
The bass was weak on electronic music compared to my class AB amplifier. I just ordered the other 48v power supply. So far the mids are ok but bass is poor. I'll update.
Not knowing what your speakers are it could very well be the power supply
@@ZReviews JBL 4312 SE with 12 inch woofers. Might be still a tall order for these 90 DB 6 ohm speakers which are doing great with my Chord Anni @10 watts. Class AB. Have also ordered the Burson Audio time keepers monoblocks @30 watts pure Class A. So I will arrange a shootout soon!
The price will double now you've weaved your spell Zeos. Better get them now folks.
What!
@@ZReviews You mean you're losing your touch Z-man ?
it wont, would be a nonsense buy
unless it discontinued
This is Class D and that maybe not so good, but you can play music very loud,but i have for many years ago two mono blocks at 600 watts per channel ice class D,that was very good.
Can you do a side by side comparison to the infineon amps? I have the smsl da18 and curious about these for my t50rp mods.
Sounds great at moderate volumes but lacks bottom end thumb of a good amp
ya class d make great headphone amps. fosi never sent one for testing. to bad I have a few design ideas >:)
Can I use the Preamp of my Element III as input for the V3?
And if so, what do I have to mind if i want to connect my Tungsten to the v3?
ANyone else have any opnions on this vs anything new that has shown up?? looking to buy my 1st but wanna go as good as possible to start .
You should change the op amps on both amps. It makes them even better then the stock op amps. Then you can truly unleash the tiny beast to its true protential.
Why not just change the amp then?
@@psysword You could add the Sparkos SS3602, or OPA2604 to change the sound to what you like. With the Sparkos it would then be around a $250 amp with OPA2604 about a $110 amp. For the price would be hard to beat. For getting into the hobby it is a great bang for your buck.
Buying one to do the Sparkos swap for my patio system of all places 😅
@khubilia any idea about the muses02 op amp?
Also, how do the mentioned 2 opamps stack up since 1 is over twice the price...
@@enricolisk1357 The muses02 has more of the tube feel to the music, a little darker sound. At some ranges it muddys the sound. I believe if uses it mostly for watching TV/movies it can bring something special. The OPA2604 I believe about 80% of the people will really enjoy the sound with music. It has clarity, crisp guitar strings on live music, nice full bass. Enjoyable to listen to overall. The Sparkos has more depth and width to it. It has a more natural sound to the music. For me with this amp I have to ask the dollar amount to performance is it really 3X better? I am curios about the BursonV6 op amp. A) can you set it in the slot without to much modding? B) the sound compared to the others?
I ordered the V3 through Amazon. Is that why I didn't receive the orange volume knob?
I think that might be the case
The orange knob is an add on. It doesn’t come with it stock
Hi, I just got mine. I am having problems with getting the headphones to work. Using the 3.5 jack, for some reason it just bypass the sound. Any advice would help. Thanks for your channel Zeos.
fosi bt30d pro vs fosi bt20a pro Which is more successful?
well the other one is ramen made by ramen founder
Thinking to power Q-acoustic 3020i with these.
I would go with the Bt20A Pro + QAs. Unless you're equalising at source, the tone controls on the Pro will make a far bigger difference to your listening enjoyment than the slightly better SQ of the V3.
is it good idea to get this to power front L/R, so avr can C and surround? i have Klipsch synergy F2.
I actually might try that
This was my question as well
I think it's "Aye-eee-ma." :)
Can I pair it with Klipsch Bookshelves R 50M
There is more bad with the pass-through. Please test this yourself if you can.
First... The pass-through works both ways... You can input via the 3.5mm too. Then you would use the RCA as outputs. Just like the Aiyima A07. It is really only a Y cable. Not even a line out.
So here is the nail in the V3 coffin. I found out last night that the RCA and 3.5mm pass-through of the V3 are wired wrong and when another device is plugged into the V3, while conducting an isolated L-R stereo separation test, reveals the crossed signals. This error doesn't happen when you only use the RCA(or 3.5mm) input alone... But as soon as you plug something into the V3 for output... L-R tests reveal the cross-fed signals. When testing, the left channel will play and a reduced signal will play in the right channel too and vice versa. This should not happen. Fosi Audio obviously copied the original circuit layout of the Aiyima A07. The A07 also had this error in their first run... They did fix it... So they say...
For Shame Fosi! You will have to split your signal before your V3 and feed your secondary device that way. You cannot use the pass-through in the V3. The entire first run of this device is junk for anyone needing that pass-through to work as intended. Buyer Beware!
Is there any actual limit how much a speaker can be built to move forwards and backwards?
Can you put the links for the power supplies? They’re not in the description
I can't believe I messed up that bad. All links added.
@@ZReviews Thanks!
Z goes on about needing big capacitors so what size capacitors do you need?
if you have the option turn the bench powersupply to 10A 48v
Where can a speaker cable and adaptor for running headphones be purchased that is made already? Thanks !
They make premades on AliExpress. I built mine
but if i use it for klipsch rp600 or 6000 than wil it be better
Where's that stand from that you have the V3 on?
Its good that you are exposing that you CO NOT need to spend four figures+ to drive stuff cleanly and fully - DESPITE what the chorus of "Audiophile Bros" will iterate ad nauseum.
first like, first comment!!
8:38 Minecraft door sound!
how did you connect the amplifier with the headphones?
Z, Could you link banana plugs that " actually " fit the V3. Best, D.
So I bought the Fosi upgraded power supply already(bass-ackwards?). Will be getting this amp Z mentioned there was a coupon, anyone know of it? Thank you
But will it power a record player?
Can you do reviews on Bang and Olufsen or Dynaudio speakers?
B&O are pricey. I'd need a dealer to send them out.
@@ZReviews Yea I know. But if someone can do it, it’s you 🔈
Maybe hook this up to some Ohm Walsh towers
I need a second or third or fourth so I could spread them out
The tweeters should be outside .That will reduce brightness l
To turn on Bluetooth on the amplifier you need to press the volume control, and bluetooth will turn off
What music is this? 25:17