I will definitely take some techniques you use on the dna250c and add them to my method, one thing i would never do is use a screwdriver to push wires when the lipo is connected, other than that, it has been a very helpful video, nice skills man.
I mean you can buy a cheap microscope for just this purpose(And others) i have a micrscope that i use when i do micro-Solder work on iPhone, samsung logic boards and other devices. But my point is that same microscope is PERFECT for this type of thing as well if you need a little visual assistance.
I haven't used Varitube in a while but back in the day the spring and thus the pin travel wasn't as smooth on the Varitubes... this may have improved since.
I have an adjustable temperature knob on my soldering iron what fahrenheit temperature should I adjust it to? Want to make sure not to over heat anything while soldering and melt something that’s plastic
Hi, do you change the board configurations in order to charge and balance the 4s lipo or it changes the config automatic depending on The bateries you plug on?
That will need to be done, I don't usually do it before shipping, but if for some reason you won't be able to do it yourself (no windows computer for escribe) leave a comment on your order and I can do it for you.
Yes, you can tap off the fire button pins to power the LED but that carries the bat voltage, and our LED fire buttons expect ~5v... if you are using 2s, that's close enough to 5v that you can power the LED directly but if you go 3s or above, you'll need to either, - use an LED button that expects whatever bat voltage you are using... might be hard to find one, and the voltage difference between fully charged and fully drained batteries, especially a 4s, is significant. - build a voltage divider using 2 resistors to drop the voltage accordingly... the resistor values will differ based on the bat voltage and desired LED voltage, and again, the difference between fully charged and fully drained could be an issue. - easiest solution IMO, use a 5v regulator, like this, i.imgur.com/jO0myvs.jpg
Yes, it will display an error if the atomizer's resistance is too low. From the "Error Messages" section of the datasheet, downloads.evolvapor.com/dna250color.pdf Ohms Too Low: The resistance of the atomizer coil is too low for the current wattage setting. If this happens, the DNA 250C will continue to fire, but will not be able to provide the desired wattage. The Ohms Too Low message will continue to display for a few seconds after the end of puff.
The through holes on the board for the fire button won't fit 14AWG, the datasheet recommends between 22AWG and 28AWG, I don't think anything bigger than 22AWG will fit in those holes.
It doesn't matter, or more precisely, there isn't a negative or positive on the fire button. It's a single pole, single throw switch, when you push the button it internally connects both pins together.
It depends on the options you choose, there is a link in the video description to the parts kit, you can chose the options you want and see what the price comes up to.
Page 14 of the datasheet claims, downloads.evolvapor.com/dna250color.pdf Output (silicone insulated): Min 14AWG, Recommended 12AWG, Max 12AWG. 12AWG won't fit in most 510s or even on the pads on the board because they are so close together and IMO is not worth the trouble. Even 14AWG can be hard to jam into the 510, this is the biggest I would use, I usually tin the wire so it's a solid then file it down so it will fit in the 510. Unless you plan to push the mod to its limits, I recommend 16AWG, it's the easiest to work with and I've never seen any commercial 250c mod use anything bigger, probably for the same reasons I've mentioned above. If you are worried, think of it this way, the load goes through the board, there is no way the amount of metal that make up the copper traces, as thick as they may be, is anywhere close to the amount of metal in 12AWG wire, no sense in using such a large wire unless the whole chain/path is using the same.
The one I use in the video is the biggest 4s (1400mAh) I found that would fit, as you can see it's a pretty tight fit, the dimensions of the lipo are 87x34x25mm, I don't recommend going much more than ~1mm bigger on any side. You might have more options with higher mAh if you use a 3s lipo.
Great external design for the board im going to buy a kit for sure
I will definitely take some techniques you use on the dna250c and add them to my method, one thing i would never do is use a screwdriver to push wires when the lipo is connected, other than that, it has been a very helpful video, nice skills man.
I wish I could still see well enough to solder. My eyes got too bad so I gave all my stuff away and now I wish I could build one of these for myself.
Me too, I am wishing I could make my own single 21700 DNA75C box mod for MTL stealth vape 💨
I mean you can buy a cheap microscope for just this purpose(And others) i have a micrscope that i use when i do micro-Solder work on iPhone, samsung logic boards and other devices. But my point is that same microscope is PERFECT for this type of thing as well if you need a little visual assistance.
check out sharper magnifiers
Great box
Curious. Varitube v2 accepts any size of wire. If the gauge of the wire is the "restriction" to picking a 510, why opt for FD instead of a varitube?
I haven't used Varitube in a while but back in the day the spring and thus the pin travel wasn't as smooth on the Varitubes... this may have improved since.
Are your 510 connectors waterproof? If not, can o-rings be added to make it so?
Nice job. Would you be able to link what solder and flux you're using?
Thank you!
Solder: www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/590-4895-454G
Flux: www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/590-8341-10ML
Hi,are the cutouts the same for the DNA 250 as the 200?.I have 2 DNA 200 boards I'd like to use in this enclosure,thanks.
Yup, DNA200 and DNA250 are the same.
I have an adjustable temperature knob on my soldering iron what fahrenheit temperature should I adjust it to? Want to make sure not to over heat anything while soldering and melt something that’s plastic
I keep mine at 420c (~780F) most of the time. I rarely go any lower but I do go higher sometimes if need be.
Analog Box Mods sounds good. Thanks for the reply
Hi, do you change the board configurations in order to charge and balance the 4s lipo or it changes the config automatic depending on The bateries you plug on?
That will need to be done, I don't usually do it before shipping, but if for some reason you won't be able to do it yourself (no windows computer for escribe) leave a comment on your order and I can do it for you.
it loads the lipo the dna 250C?? thank you
Can I do this with an LED button? I'm ordering the NX (biggest) enclosure friday, going to try and fit that 2800 mAh MaxAmps in there
Yes, you can tap off the fire button pins to power the LED but that carries the bat voltage, and our LED fire buttons expect ~5v... if you are using 2s, that's close enough to 5v that you can power the LED directly but if you go 3s or above, you'll need to either,
- use an LED button that expects whatever bat voltage you are using... might be hard to find one, and the voltage difference between fully charged and fully drained batteries, especially a 4s, is significant.
- build a voltage divider using 2 resistors to drop the voltage accordingly... the resistor values will differ based on the bat voltage and desired LED voltage, and again, the difference between fully charged and fully drained could be an issue.
- easiest solution IMO, use a 5v regulator, like this, i.imgur.com/jO0myvs.jpg
@@AnalogboxmodsCanada thanks man!
When soldering the wire to the 510 pin... are you heating the wire or 510?
Both, the iron is touching the wire and 510 pin.
Price this boxmod ?
Do you have kits that can fit the 41mm titan ?
Where can you get those batteries in the uk, thanks in advance
Is it regulated where if you put to low of ohms on it it’ll let you known that your ohms are to low?
Yes, it will display an error if the atomizer's resistance is too low. From the "Error Messages" section of the datasheet,
downloads.evolvapor.com/dna250color.pdf
Ohms Too Low: The resistance of the atomizer coil is too low for the current wattage setting. If this
happens, the DNA 250C will continue to fire, but will not be able to provide the desired wattage. The
Ohms Too Low message will continue to display for a few seconds after the end of puff.
How much?
Can you use the same gauge wire for everything or is it different gauges for different components?
No, you need to use a bigger wire for the batteries and 510, in this case I used 14AWG for both.
@@AnalogboxmodsCanada can i use 14 awg for all then or just the 510 and batteries?
The through holes on the board for the fire button won't fit 14AWG, the datasheet recommends between 22AWG and 28AWG, I don't think anything bigger than 22AWG will fit in those holes.
@@AnalogboxmodsCanada thanks man
how do you know which pin is negative and positive on the fire button ?
It doesn't matter, or more precisely, there isn't a negative or positive on the fire button. It's a single pole, single throw switch, when you push the button it internally connects both pins together.
Hi, what’s the biggest and highest MAH lipo battery that will fit in this enclosure. Please let me know thank you
88mm x 35mm x 26mm. I'm having issues finding one also, and my kit is almost here
matt reynen thank you
You might be able to cheat a couple mm bigger on the 26mm dimension. Not sure. I think the one in this video is closer to 30mm
I lied don't go past the 26mm dimension.
matt reynen yes I’ll keep that in mind
How does the component of the box cost in total plz? Without the tool
It depends on the options you choose, there is a link in the video description to the parts kit, you can chose the options you want and see what the price comes up to.
Mine was 117 and change 🇺🇸 mine was all options
Does anybody make a waterproof enclosure that fits a 35 mm tank?
the wire awg to the 510 pin ??
Page 14 of the datasheet claims, downloads.evolvapor.com/dna250color.pdf
Output (silicone insulated): Min 14AWG, Recommended 12AWG, Max 12AWG.
12AWG won't fit in most 510s or even on the pads on the board because they are so close together and IMO is not worth the trouble.
Even 14AWG can be hard to jam into the 510, this is the biggest I would use, I usually tin the wire so it's a solid then file it down so it will fit in the 510.
Unless you plan to push the mod to its limits, I recommend 16AWG, it's the easiest to work with and I've never seen any commercial 250c mod use anything bigger, probably for the same reasons I've mentioned above.
If you are worried, think of it this way, the load goes through the board, there is no way the amount of metal that make up the copper traces, as thick as they may be, is anywhere close to the amount of metal in 12AWG wire, no sense in using such a large wire unless the whole chain/path is using the same.
@@AnalogboxmodsCanada Mod Dna250C 4S lipo 1550 mAh 510 fat daddy limits 400 watts thank you
Hi, where can I get the that flux and flux injector?
www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/590-8341-10ML
Analog Box Mods thank you sir you’ve been quite helpful 👍🏽👍🏽
Where do you get the alum from?
You mean the aluminium enclosures?
@@AnalogboxmodsCanada hi. No where did you get the alum blanks to be milled? Like what is the supplier?
WhAt guage wire on the fire button
I use 24AWG for the fire button.
Hi, what’s the biggest and highest MAH lipo battery that will fit in this enclosure. Please let me know thank you
The one I use in the video is the biggest 4s (1400mAh) I found that would fit, as you can see it's a pretty tight fit, the dimensions of the lipo are 87x34x25mm, I don't recommend going much more than ~1mm bigger on any side. You might have more options with higher mAh if you use a 3s lipo.
Analog Box Mods thank you
@@AnalogboxmodsCanada can we get a link to one that size I can't find any under 27mm
@@AnalogboxmodsCanada they no longer sell these what else will fit
@@AnalogboxmodsCanada already tried the ovonic 1300 80c there to thick