Evan Peterson I’m not judging your reply I just want to pose the question that if it was Minnesota cold outside and you needed to split wood to keep the house warm waiting on their customer service would not happen. When you make a cheap product replacement of garbage with more garbage is not as big a problem for your company as it is for the customer who probably went out and bought a new one long before you could send them a replacement. Did you get your replacement next day priority shipped? Some people live in places like Alaska where a tool you can’t self maintain is idiocy.
I've used Fiskars scissors, shovels, hatchets, garden tools etc. And I love them! My brother-in-law borrowed a shovel and abused it- Fiskars warrantied it no questions asked. I had to wait for shipping, but they let me keep the remains of the old shovel till the new one came. (the old one was messed up, but still worked half decent even when broken)
Only hesitation I'd have about Fiskars mauls is the price. Video claims (guesses -- apparently with no research) they're about the same price. ($20) Try triple that -- if you're lucky. Fiskars can command a premium price -- because their reputation (yes, even he'uh in 'merka) is quite high. (anything but "hated")
briansmobile1 My shed is full of Fiskars tools. My axes, maul, post hole digger, and shovels. My wife has many gardening tools. Can’t beat the quality and price.
Fiskars in my opinion are in a league of their own. Selling firewood on the side, I've been through and tested so many axes trying to find the perfect one. I've had the fiskars for 2 years now and would have easily split over 200t and it's still perfect. A quick sharpen every know and then and she's good to go. It splits like no other axe I've had. As for the handle..... My god that thing has had some serious knocks and it's still perfect.
I used my Fiskars X27 to clear twenty oak trees on our property and after 2 weeks of using it and 4 years of owning it. It amazing! Cuts and splits well and never did I fear the handle was going to break of like my other wooden handle Ax. Also Fiskars has a life time warranty if it breaks they'll send you a new one. That's confidence in their product.
+Dawid W Yeah because you buy a splitting maul to deal with customer service, and it's really convenient to waste your time shipping stuff back and forth.
Fiskars axes have the lifetime warranty for a reason. Breaking them is very hard and requires lot of abuse. So the real comparison is between the benefits of "can be replaced" and "doesn't need to be replaced". I think it is a little silly to compare to products if you are very biased towards the inferior for romantic(unrational) reasons. I like mechanical watches, yet i use batterypowered watches regularly, and I would never even consider comparing them although they serve almost identical purposes.
Good point. But I think it is missing the point of Wranglerstar's channel. He is looking for tools that he can go out and buy once and then maintain them indefinitely on his own property. He wants to be able to replace the handle without having to contact a company. Real world situations, 99% of the time you'll be great with a product like Fiskars.
I mean watches is a pretty awful comparison, the real reason most people wear battery powered watches over mechanical is simply the cost. A mechanical watch is easily between 3-10k for a basic watch, without any silver, gold, gems, etc in it. They're many times more expensive than a quartz battery watch with similar to identical construction, the complexity of the movement, and the work that goes into designing and building it is that much. But they are many advantages they have over a battery powered watch, they're incredibly long lasting, and can run for years if not decades if you wear it every day. Its simply the cost of producing a mechanical watch that makes them more rare than a battery powered one.
@@SuperAwesomeCloudMan I love mechanical watches, but I disagree. A) A basic mechanical watch is nowhere near 3-10k. Perfectly serviceable Seiko 5s with automatic movements can be had for well under $200. Heck, if a person isn't averse to going the Chinese route and buying on Aliexpress, you can buy a Starking or a Cadisen for $60 with a mechanical movement and a freaking sapphire crystal. B) While it's true that mechanical watches don't rely on a battery which will need to be changed, that doesn't mean they're immune to maintenance. Those mechanical movements do eventually wear out. Heck, most luxury Swiss brands tell you to have them serviced every 5 years, and while I personally think that's overkill, I wouldn't personally run any mechanical watch for more than 10 years without having it serviced. C) Further to my last point, you can now easily pick up solar-powered watches from Casio, Citizen and Seiko that, just like a mechanical movement, can theoretically run indefinitely with the only caveat being the possible need for servicing, a downside shared with mechanical movements. D) Quartz watches can take more abuse than mechanical watches, for the simple fact that mechanical movements have way more moving parts. To find a mechanical watch that's as tough as a $50 G-Shock DW5600, you need to spend dozens of times more money for something like a Sinn U1. Quartz watches also aren't susceptible to magnetic fields like mechanical watches are, which require either specialty non-magnetic hairsprings or shielded case construction in order to cope. E) A cheap digital watch is ultimately a lot more functional than a mechanical watch. A $50 digital watch gets you a watch with time, date, alarm, countdown timer and chronograph functions. Even just having a chronograph in a mechanical watch pretty much guarantees a price well over a thousand dollars. A perpetual calendar, function that is absolutely trivial for a digital watch, costs into the tens of thousands in a mechanical watch because of how complex the movement driving that complication is. If you want all those functions (perpetual calendar, chronograph, sonnerie) in a mechanical watch, you're getting into Grand Complication territory, which is basically restricted to only the most elite luxury watch brands like Patek, Vacheron, JLC and AL&S, will run literally hundreds of thousands of dollars. F) The elephant in the room: at the end of the day, even a mid-tier quartz watch will absolutely waste even the most expensive mechanical movements when it comes to accuracy. Rolex's "Superlative Chronometer" rating is among the most strict standards of movement accuracy, even stricter than COSC, and it requires a movement's timing perform no worse than -2/+2 seconds per day. Even cheap quartz watches have no problem exceeding that level of accuracy. Meanwhile, Citizen has recently introduced a luxury quartz watch with an accuracy of -1/+1 seconds *per year*. TL;DR: While good, inexpensive mechanical watches are certainly out there, two qualities that mechanical watches will never have over quartz is value and accuracy. If someone is looking for a watch to be used as a tool, there's no reason to choose a mechanical watch over a quartz. Mechanical watches remain popular in watch circles because people feel more of a personal connection to the escapement's "heartbeat" in a mechanical movement, because they still respect the high level of mechanical engineering and artistry that goes into them, and because they're a statement of the wearer's taste and style. I say this as someone who only owns mechanical watches: more people wear quartz watches because, for the price, they are simply better at keeping time.
@@outdoordad1656 "He wants to be able to replace the handle without having to contact a company" But if you never need to replace the handle that is irrelevant. That is like looking for something that will break when you have the option of something that will not break, because that thing that will break you can fix. Also you are kinda wrong he is using pants that have a lifetime warranty because he can just contact the company send the ones he has back to them and they fixes it. If he is ok with that on work cloths he should be on tools.
+teutonieth No, it's because Fiskar has a few flukes in it's system. Flukes that only can be solved by buying a new one each time a problems arises. One of the main problems is the steel they are using: low quality. Old traditional ones, whether they are American or European or whatever are easy to repair and last much longer. Plus it's a piece of heritage too. :)
TheOpelkoenjas First, while that may be the case, it is not what he has implied. Second, i assume the fluke you talk of is the synthetic shaft, which i have actually never seen breaking. Third, heritage has nothing to do with efficiency. Fourth, a good "traditional" axe is comparatively expensive ranging around 300€ and needing to be found from specialized blacksmiths while Fiskars is fairly cheap at ~100€ and can be found at any local hardware store. It's the everymans axe. At any rate, my preference is neither Fiskars or that thing he has, but my Gränfors Bruk.
teutonieth No, the fluke I'm talking about is the way to soft metal Fiskar uses. It feels like it's not designed to chop hard wood, but rather soft wood like birch. Each time you use it on hard wood you need to get it to the bench to remove metal chips and sharpen it. The handle is not the issue, it's pretty strong and more lightweight compared to an original wooden one. But then again, you don't need a lot of weight and strength to chop birch-like wood, right? I have a cheap and heavy $50 ax (3 kilo) and a, old $250 blacksmith one (3 kilo), and I use them to chop hard wood (oak being one example). Depending on my mood, I'll use either the cheap one or the old one. Both get the job the job done without a hassle. No chipping, no need to run to bench every single time, nothing. Just a quick swipe to clean it off when done, and voilà. Ready for the next batch of wood. Fiskar on the other hand, oh boy. Accidentally strike a knot a few times and the sharp metal simply either bends over or chips off (which is a dangerous situation).
My buddy has had the same Fiskars axe for over 10 years. He loves them, and I enjoyed it when I got to use it, and now in my own yard. Cheers from Texas.
I've brutalized my Fiskars, and to be honest the steel holds an edge for a long time. No problems with the actual axe head. The handle however is dreadful, it's ultra rigid so when you strike, the forces go directly into your body - wooden handles flex slightly on impact so a large amount of the force dissipates in the form of a vibration/flexing in the handle. Over the course of hours of striking with a rigid handle, you'll be a bit achy. Not the end of the world, but it's the difference between chopping being a chore and being a joy to do.
Just trust the flare. You can almost let go off the axe. It will grab your finger and work like a pivot. All the power you are using to hold the axe when it already hits the wood is too late anyway and good for nothing. Also I find the Fiskars handle to be a lot flexier than hickory or any other wooden handle I've come across and my logic says that will actually soften the impact, that's why they put the springy things in car shock absorbers.
I have used Fiskars for years and they are superior at splitting wood. I get no vibration at all and never had chipping like he got. I spit hardwoods green and seasoned. I have never seen a fiskars handle break or come loose. If by change you break one you get a brand new one. Also due to their low weight you can use them all day long.
+Dangit_Bobby - I think they listened! Take a look at the IsoCore 8-lb Maul - www2.fiskars.com/Products/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Axes-and-Mauls/IsoCore-8-lb-Maul-36
+varun009 The modern steel used in the Fiskars needed resharpening after the test. The traditional blacksmithed maul didn't. You can't say "modern steel is superior" without knowing how the "old steel" was made. Skilled blacksmiths can make really good steel with traditional methods, and more than that, they can work the steel so it gets the exact qualities the tool needs.
Jonatas Silveira Baldo Except modern steel production is superior. All you'd expect from a blacksmith's steel is higher carbon content, with poorer consistency.
In every respect, the steel in the Fiskars is probably superior. More uniform carbon content, better hardenability, better edge retention (when PROPERLY sharpened, which I don't usually see Cody doing, because he likes his axes to be extremely sharp). The grind on a maul should be rather fat, because it's not supposed to cut through wood. Also, blacksmith's don't make steel. that would be a smeltery.
Good casual review. I respect your comments about feel, vintage and such. But when it comes to your comment about the quality of steel, you are off the chart quite a bit. The Fiskars is definitely not a bad quality steel. Compared to your maul, it might be a different quality of steel. Both your maul and the Fiskars have hardened forged steel. There are a few reasons why you maul will hold its limited sharpness a longer time. The blunt edge profile and its steel is harder. These properties are not about good or bad quality, it is about steel preference. If you want to have a sharper tool, that is easier to sharpen, you choose softer steel, but if you prefer a not so sharp edge, that hold up for a longer time, but also is tougher to sharpen, then you pick the steel in your maul. Fiskars steel in the splitting axe can be sharpened into razor blade sharpness, chopping hair off your arm....That's the advantage with a softer steel. A sharp edge penetrates the wood deeper, and makes splitting easier. At about 17 seconds into the video you show briefly the edge of the Fiskars, which edge is already dented. Now after splitting, at 3m34sec into the video, you imply that the Fiskars got dented in the splitting test, and had to be sharpened. That is absolutely WRONG! This will drop my grade on your review video from 5/5 to 3.5/5.
yayamensun It's not an issue of steel quality with the Fiskars. The Fiskars has a soft temper so it's easier to sharpen... but that comes at the cost of the edge becoming dull faster, or rolling.
Terve! Thank you for a interesting comparison, but ofcourse traditional Finnish axes are better and have a longer heritage than any American. Fiskars has been making axes and tools continuously since 1649 in my home village Pohja in Finland. Fiskars later moved its factory to the nearby village of Billnäs, where they used to do even better axes, all kinds of tools and other steel products, aswell as fine furniture until the end of 1950s. A third important if not so common brand was Sorsakoski, but in the old times almost all Finnish men and houses and the army had Billnäs axes in everyday use. The modern Swedish Hultafors reminds very closely of Billnäs axes, but here we treditionally made the handle of pine and not from some finer, foreign hickory. Today, the plastic Fiskars axe is almost fourty years old and everyone have them, they last forever, are very effective and very light. I have seen a test unit in the factory museum that has been repeating a heavy strike with the same F* axe for over twenty yearsday after day and the handle is still fine. I don't know what you did to your Fiskars blade but mine has been sharp for years with lots of neglegt. I too have restored many traditional axes but I must say that the Fiskars is very high quality product, especially because it is not made in USA but in FINLAND!!! Oh, about the lever-like Vipukirves, it is considered as a bad joke around here, nobody buys them...
Finland is a worthless country that nobody cares about; many people have never even heard of it. One of these days you backward people will learn how to make a modern tool.
@@profd65 Would this qualify. LNG-powered icebreaker Polaris - Full-scale ice trials of the Aker ARC 130 design ruclips.net/video/p9E0Q05-3Zg/видео.html
@@profd65 Not a big surprise if americans have never heard of Finland, they barely know the continents. Ponsse Scorpion King. There's a modern tool for you, made in Finland.
@@1992Tuomas Americans were too busy inventing the microprocessor and operating system in your computer--as well the Internet itself--to learn that stuff. Finns on the other hand can go to a wall map and stick a pin in the country of Botswana. Let me congratulate you and pat you on the head...GOOD JOB.
I see both sides of the fence/coin, so i went and bought the Fiskars X7 purely for survival hiking (Lightweight, handle is amazing), and both the Gransfors Bruk Scandinavian Forest Axe and Gransfors Bruk Hand Hatchet. Wranglerstar's Channel, especially his Axe and tool videos are some of the best on the internet, hands down, he does a wonderful job of throughly putting review tools through their paces, and he has enabled me to make more informed decisions in my life when it comes to the purchasing of built for purpose tools and equipment. Big thanks to you Mr Wranglerstar!!! :)
I love your videos BTW, But you carry a Glock, not necessarily a heritage firearm, it is polymer, not wood handles, and it doesnt feel as good as a 1911 perse... But it gets the Job done. Different tool for different job of course but what are your thoughts on that? You discussed the different fiber materials for clothing, maybe you can talk about firearms too.
"But you carry a Glock,..." I totally agree with you on this. Wranglerstar "forgets" that those foreign (Austrian) handguns are very popular in the USA. Why can't Wranglerstar be seen wearing a Colt 1911? Being a Glock owner makes him less patriotic.
i respect the authenticity with which you chop wood. Im getting ready to split a big ole' pile of hickory and elm with a standard maul. The birds chirping and sounds of splitting doesn't get old. Great vids Wranglerstar.
I share your passion for heritage tools, well made clothes, boots and American steel. I have several old axes in many makes, patterns and weights. I agree with everything you said about both choppers as I use both. That being said I am first and foremost a believer in function over form. Despite sharing the satisfaction of using a GB or other vintage American axe I migrate towards the X27 for a long day of splitting. At the end of the day I get more done with less fatigue.I believe the handle has a lifetime warranty to boot. On a side note I haven't had the edge failure as seen in your video. Being from the Midwest I split very hard deciduous trees. Elm, Oak, Maple and Locust. Must have been a bad batch of steel since splitting conifer should in theory be easier. P.S. I look forward to checking for a new video everyday.
Biased...the Fiskars is superior he just doesn't like that it is better. Biggest gripe, not something you can pass down. Yes you can. This guy does everything he can to damn it, but it is a great axe.
the metal is very low quality doesn't hold an edge well I can attest to this and I can split just as well if not better with a more comfortable hickory handles American maul it's all about how you swing it
Jonathon Satterfield .. have you ever tried fiskars axe? i doubt you have. my axes' edges are in great shape after years of usage. dont where this guy whacked the axe to get it destroyed.
Fiskars is clearly already used (you can see the "FISKARS" label being already worn at the beginning of the video). It is a stupid claim to say that the blade would have worn in what, 10 hits? Fiskars axes do not seem to rust like other axes, eventhough they are not stainless. You can easily leave a Fiskars axe outside in the rain. Plastic handles have some advantages over wooden ones: they don't break as easily in case you miss and hit the wood with the handle, they don't mind weather whereas wooden handles can start rotting, and they are lighter. I do think that plastic handles vibrate more than wooden handles. Fiskars axes can take a serious beating on the back part of the head (you can pound it with a sledgehammer or use the axe as one).
I have a Fisker's for over a year and the head was perfect until I missed the chopping block once. If just going into the wood the head does not get messed up like that
I split with a fiskars and I love it! True, you cannot replace the handle. However, Fiskars gives you a lifetime warranty with their axes. If anything goes wrong, send them a pic of the damage and they'll send you a new one.
Is a Fiskars rep. going to come and sharpen your stuff after nearly every use because of inferior alloying? Or come change the swing dynamics with a new handle? Will the oil from your hands eventually make the handle more comfortable over time?
LOL is a Fiskars going to come sharpen your axe? Man, if you can't sharpen your own blades, you should just have you wood delivered and stacked for you, cupcake.
Hi I'm 19 and I do lot lots of splitting with that fiskars and have found it to quite an enjoyable tool. Although you were wrong about the bottom of the handle where it jets out, after more than 45 min of splitting it starts to bang against your pinkie finger. When you split the wood with knots in it I noticed that you split from the top of the tree to the bottom on the log, in my experience I have always found that it is easier to split from the bottom of the tree up in reference to the log. Thanks for taking the time to read my comment.
I have been using a Fiskars X27 for 2 years on oak and hickory. The steel in mine is very good and holds an excellent edge. If you use a chopping block as the directions tell you too the edge does not chip. It splits knots and crooked grain much easier than any maul I have ever used. I have never experienced vibrations in the handle and have intentionally overstruck the handle and no problems. Lifetime warranty on the Fiskars. I sure can't say that about any hickory handle I ever used. I split 8-10 cords a year of tough hardwood and without question the Fiskars is the best splitting tool I have ever used. Its lighter weight is much less tiring to use. Using a maul I always had to use wedges on knotty rounds but I have not used a wedge once since getting the Fiskars. I split wood all the way up to 18-22 inch diameter hardwood. Unless someone steal my Fiskars I won't use a maul again and only then until I can get another X27. Well there is my 2 cents worth.
Thanks for your 2 cents worth. Like your good self, I cut a lot of hardwood which is difficult to split. English Elm is the hardest to split and has ruined my cheap large axe, (my fault for pounding it through with another axe). But I have found an easier way, I now split the difficult logs with a chainsaw. So I am looking for a new axe and the X27 seems a good choice. Your comments are valued and duly noted by myself. Thank you Mr Gallagher.
I concur with you. although I don't split half of what you do. It's Fiskars all the way. when I got and tried my Fiskars I said to my self "finally, some evolution here".
I have used the Fiskars X27 for two years now...best splitting axe I have ever owned. Didn’t want to buy because of a non wood handle...but after about five minutes of splitting I have never looked back.
@@inkkari6603 Todella omituista huomata, kuinka jenkki ymmärtää Fiskarsin tilanteen, mutta suomalaiset eivät. Fiskars on tosiaan hylännyt kunniakkaan suomalaisen kirves- ja puukkoperimän. Tilalle on tullut halvalla muovista missä milloinkin tehtyä tavaraa. Nykyiset puukot ja veitset ovat pelkkää halpisrihkamaa, mutta kirves sentään voi olla ihan toimiva halpiskirves, jos sattuu samaan käsiin hyvää tuotantoa olevan yksilön. Epämiellyttäviä ja epäergonomisia toki nuo nykyiset kirveet ovat mutta toimivia saattavat silti olla. Nykyisin suomalainen joutuu ostamaan ruotsalaisen kirveen, jos haluaa ostaa hyvän kirveen. Se tympii.
I agree with your thoughts on vintage tools etc. But like you almost said, there ain't no better axe for making firewood than these splitting Fiskars'. I've used three different Fiskars' for over 20 years and not a single one has broken. And i use em daily. I love wooden handles and 'old' hand tools, but when it comes to splitting firewood: Fiskars. Would love to get one of those american mauls!
I learnt to split using a blockbuster on the big dense Australian hardwoods and ever since going fiskars I find them a dream. I have used the axes for years now and nothing compares, I have used them with a dull as head with not a bit of point on them and they still eat the traditional blockbusters alive, one hit splits pretty well everytime.
Thank you for this comparison. I too prefer a real tool that was built and cared for with pride over something new and flashy. I have often been accused of working in the stone age of tools and instruments as most of my inventory you will find will be read in dials and vernier gradients and not a single digital display will be in sight. I will admit to having some Fiskars scissors for my soft goods work, but I have never owned any of the Fiskars axes or mauls. You yet again have given me a fair insight as to the properties of both and for me, I will continue to maintain my good steel and wood tools. Thank you Keep up the good work and God bless.
Is it nice to have a Rolex watch? I mean its visually pleasing and design stands test of time, you can pass it on to your off spring. Is it needed heck no, Id go for efficiency over looks when it comes to a tool. I like having or using an axe that my grandfather used but I have no need to if there is a better axe/maul on the market. :) Nice vid tho
Perhaps he abused it prior to the video so that he would have more reasons to disparage the HATEFUL Fiskars, also you can't even buy the "heritage" maul he compared it to.
Heritage. Well, the Fiskars is one of the oldest companies in the western world dating back to 1649. I have a mid/large size plastic handle Fiskars splitter that dates to sometime in the early 90's and bought by my now late father. I don't know the history exactly, but I think my axe is a rather early version with the plastic handle. I don't use it daily, but I use it make kindling every now and then when needed. Nowadays hydraulics are for the heavy splitting. The handle is slippery when wet or snowy, but a coarse sanding helps that a lot. Around the same time as my father got the big one he bough me a small one. Now my son has that. Sure these are not state of the art craftsmanship, but more tools for the masses. They do a damn good job at it. With a wooden handle that would have gotten broken and the head lost most likely during these about 25 years. The tools that get used, are the ones that work and last. Chop wood for a day with both, and then figure out which is best? A friend of mine still chops all his firewood with an x27. And his house heats only with wood and our winter is around 7 months of a year. The only thing he complains about is his food consumption. About the leveraxe: that I don't like and the developer is somewhat intrusive, to be polite.
You’re right the Fisker‘s doesn’t have the feel of a wood handled Swedish splitting mall. But one thing it has going for it is when all your wood handled malls have loose heads or been broken and you haven’t had time to fix them you can always grab that Fisker‘s and split some wood.
Been using fiskars axes and hatchets for 10 years and the oldest is my fathers splitting maul propably 15-20 years old. Anyways, i've used those for firewood, logging, chopping, stripping branches, cutting, sculpting, as a hammer and god knows what else. And none of my handles have ever been broken. To break the handle you have to be quite screw-up, since i havent been able to break it due to miss-swings with logs or rocks. The steel in the head should be quite good quality, since my axes are always sharp and will hold the edge when working with good clean wood. Only the splitting axes are chipped on the edge due to rocks, nails and other debris inside the wood. Yet all they need is touch-up with stone every morning you start and it will go through wood like butter. Since you're splitting the wood, not sculpting, you don't actually need razor-like edge. Interesting is that I live in finland myself and it always could be that fiskars markets less-quality axes and tools abroad to keep the cost-profit in balance. Since in my fiskars's the handle is a lot more solid and won't vibrate, nor break. Might also be that in last few years, products just aren't as good quality as they were. Don't know, good tools in my opinion and I always support domestic products ;)
I really don't know if the quality of Fiskars in the US is different from that in germany, but Fiskars uses by no means a cheap steel. if you don't abuse your Fiskars you don't have to sharpen it. And they are razorsharp delivered. When you just hit wood and no stones, the fiskars steel is durable and hard and hols it's edge extremely long.
Wranglerstar what exactly is nonsense? I did some research. Fiskars stays silent about what steel they use. They just mentioned it is a borium steel, which doesn't tell us anything . The hardness is 58 HRC, other sources mention 55 HRC. After what i've read i think that the quality varies indeed. Some customers got very bad steel quality, some others got very durable axes. The 4 fiskars i have are all very good and a bit harder than any other axe that i sharpened so far. And i sharpen axes and knives for cash for over 10 years now.
In Germany, the Scandinavian countrys are well known for their really good tool steels and overall quality. They are amazing woodworkers and build the best woodhouses worldwide. Also have a lot of cheap green energy. Fiskard, mora, hultafors, gränsfors, martiini and so on build very good and affordable tools. I would always prefer Scandinavian tools over US stuff. USA has other stuff which is known as high quality. At least from my European perspective.
I own an X27, X17, and a X11.... I have used my X27 Super Splitter on countless rounds over the years and I have overstruck the handle several times. Never had it crack, split, or splinter. It takes abuse over and over and over again if you want it to.... I'm not saying it's indestructible but in my experience it's damn near close.
well, you almost convinced me to get a traditional one :) I just bought the Fiskars on sale and I really like it, you said that the fact the handle is not remplacable is a down point, I think it is a very good point... if you manage to break it or just an hairline crack, you just have to send a picture to Fiskars and they send you a brand new one... I look easier than changing the handle or at less cheaper
I have an array of fiskars forest tools. and I think they are great value for money. I have also experienced the vibration of the synthetic shaft on the axes, however it seem that it only gives vibrations if the blow is planted a tad "deep" in the object. What I am trying to say is that, if the first strike does not produce a split, but the head sinks in so deep that the shaft hits the object, you get the vibrations. I've worked around the vibration issue by always hitting the edge of the object until i get a split going. Works very well this way in my opinion. I hope this made sense. (I'm from Denmark, so english is not my first language) Thank you for the good work on the videos, Cody.
My experience with a Fiskars splitting axe is different to that of Mr. Wranglerstar: I agree that the handle is not pleasant, but it's not _much_ worse than my wooden-handled splitting axe. And, more importantly, the edge stays shart a lot longer than the reviewer would make you believe. Also, it's relatively easy to sharpen - a 12-15 minute job once per season.
I was given an X27 and I have to say I do prefer it to the maul for a long day of splitting. I agree that being able to replace the handle and the quality of steel makes the maul a far more practical axe (as I said I was given the X27) but my experience of the X27s handle was the opposite, it absorbs far more of the impact shock than the maul to the point where I barely feel it. Something I found I prefer with the maul is the weight. You can lean back into a swing while using the maul as a counterweight and I've found this to be by far the most effective way to split large rounds of 50 centimeters and above.
Why is Fiskars hated over there? Here in Finland it is one of the most respected toolmaker. Of course the fact that the company is Finnish also, makes it more popular too.
I wouldn't dwell on it too much, I've heard plenty of people praising the Fiskars. I guess in the end it's each man for himself. I would imagine that, in this case at least, the looks might put a few people off as well, hehe.
everyone has their opinion but when it comes to something that is made in your country city or even something that was passed down from generation to generation has a better chance to have a better feel and more of an emotional attachment to em. there is nothing wrong with it, reviews are that persons opinion on what they are use to or like using more.
I have lived in the bush all my life and I love my Fiskars axes (inexpensive, work well, don't hurt my hands). Wranglerstar is is kind of a wannabe live in the bush all your life kinda guy
Yes of course i did not mean to insult American axes or tools! I was just wondering why Cody used the word "hated" becouse it brought to my mind that Fiskars-tools abroad are cheap quality. I also believe that anyone has a right to like whatever they want. Many times you trust your homelands products better than foreign, like i do and Cody seems to do too! Nothing wrong with that.
Glad I came across this video. I saw your best axes under $50 video and didn't really understand why you didn't like the Fiskars axe. It may not be the best, but I really like my Fiskars and it performs well for me. This video clearly communicates that you hold tools to more than just performance/cost standard and has me thinking a bit differently about tools.
I have 2 Fiskars splittiing axes, both made in Finland, one 10 years old and one 5 years old. I have found them incredibly durable and much better than my traditional hickory shafted relic. Fiskars are lighter, so you can develop more velocity in the head (energy proportional to the square of velocity on impact). Much softer on the arms than hickory when working for long periods of time. And mine are still razor sharp with very little maintenance. I'd suggest checking the origin of the tool and avoiding the chinese variants. I should add that I also have a husqvarna splitter and some fibreglass shafted traditional mauls, too. They all get used, they all have their place, but in general I'm holding the fiskars.... which is especially effective on softer green wood, because it has less tendency to stick. Not sure how wrangler damaged the blade on that axe. After all, wood should be much softer than steel, from any country!
Razor sharp after that many years of use? Razor sharp, really? That statement is obviously an exaggeration and it took the credibility off anything you had to testify to because you're one of those people who adds flowers to their stories.
@wranglerstar Objectivity: ob·jec·tiv·i·ty ˌäbjekˈtivədē/ noun the quality of being objective. "the piece lacked any objectivity" synonyms: impartiality, absence/lack of bias, absence/lack of prejudice, fairness, fair-mindedness. Check out the Fiskars blade at 11 seconds and 18 seconds on your demo. You will notice that the blade is already chipped and rough before you ever start. Now tell me that all that damage is caused by your demo so I can laugh and ask you what you really know about the steel that makes up the axe. I don't even own a Fiskars but I seem to know a whole lot more than you do about it. You don't need to replace the handle because if it breaks Fiskars will replace the entire axe. (Lifetime Warranty) Next time you're going to make a head to head video, learn a little something about both tools so you can actually do the word objective/objectivity justice. Objectivity is based in factual unbiased observations and facts. Try it out, you might like it.
Steve Hollingworth What if he filmed the intro after he finished splitting the logs? This would mean that the chipping was due to the splitting. It is clear this video contains his own opinions, not every review must be entirely impartial.
callumbrownrc4 In that case, send back the axe, because that would mean that the metal in use is too fragile (not ductile enough) and therefore using is dangerous. The entire head can break apart. Could be an imitation.
I know there are people who think objective is superior to subjective (why?), and initially objective might intellectually appeal to some, in the real world I dont think Objective really exists agreed? 'Objective' is a little bit naive. Working with wood is a lifelong pleasure and therefore we should choose a tool that feels right and does the job well, not that satisfies some intellectual criteria. If you want to get as much work done as quickly as possible with as little joy as possible then the Fiskars appears to win in this review. Me? well I specifically want Wranglerstar's personal opinion whether anyone thinks its objective or not. I value his opinion more than a purely objective opinion (where will you get that any way? - dont be so naive dude). "Hickory feels better than synthetic" well surprise surprise to the objective community, a subjective comment like that is vastly more advanced. Try to scientifically or mathematically model how a tool feels to a particular human so you can create objective measures for a specific human subject- I bet you cant buddy!. And thats why this whole objective thing is no more than brain poopoo. If it does the job well and feels better then thats the right tool for the job, our body is telling us a whole lot more than science can. We aren't robots, we're humans. It IS satisfying to work with a beautiful tool that is hand crafted on more levels than just how the wood fibres cleave in response to the metal. If I feel happier using a hickory handle than a synthetic one then imho its superior to synthetic, clearly the synthetic fails on the holistic requirements of a good axe. If Im going to spend a lot of hours with that axe then just like marriage, make a decision on more levels than just 'objective'. Do you prefer a leather sofa or a plastic one? Do you wear cotton shirts or plastic shirts. The plastic shirt might have a lifetime warranty but seriously? Whatever man.
Fiskars steel isn't THAT bad. It is ground much thinner than the maul, is why it was damaged. MUCH less steel supporting the edge. Plus, mauls are meant to be blunt. So blunt it will literally not cut you if you rub in on your skin. This makes the log explode and split more than the wedge actually cutting the wood, and makes it completely unnecessary to reprofile or sharpen the tool. Which means it lasts longer. Btw, a fiskars can be a "heritage tool". I have no doubts that mine will outlive me.
+Arafingol - Having used both a traditional 8-lb maul and the Fiskars X27 side-by-side, I must respectfully disagree. The sharp Fiskars split rounds on the first strike where the maul required multiple swings. (Rounds were of the same diameter from the same tree).
+Arafingol - I don't know, and don't plan to find out. :-) It became quickly clear to me that the sharp edge is beneficial. The tool penetrates further and more easily by cutting into the wood rather than mashing into it. If you were to try it for yourself, you would see and understand almost immediately.
Rewatching after years, and I’m still glad I picked the fiskars… so light you can swing it all day. Vibration hurts when you miss, otherwise I can live with it. Gave away my 8lb maul… way too dangerous when you get tired at the end of the day. Safe, light and warrantied is my vote.
one thing to keep in mind - the real advantage of the fiskars comes into play when you have to split a whole load of wood in one go - try swinging it 400 or 500 times - the lighter weight (for the same splitting effect) causes less fatigue. That said i like the feel of wood handles too
Im a younger guy and i really love using my X27 , its has character and style to me . Makes me feel like a god damn superhero , so i think it all comes down to what you know and what you bond with.
Mule and plow was probably considered a "heritage tool", until the tractor came along. Nothing to do with splitting tools, but still, heritage shmeritage....
That's a bad comparison. You're comparing a tractor to a mule and plow. He's comparing an axe to an axe. It would be rather like comparing a wooden and steal plow to a plastic and steal plow. Wood is recyclealbe, Plastic is not. So it's worse for the enviroment. You can repair the wooden axe yourself, but you can't repair the plastic one. The plastic one will have to be remade, whereas the wooden one has the potential to last several generations.
Yeah, you're right on the comparison, and I generally appreciate most of the the tools and methods demonstrated in this channel, but rather than try to bridge the gap between easier to use fiskars and the reliability of the traditional maul, he simply chose to be biased towards the one that gave him the "warm & fuzzies". He said he has a hard time putting into words, but i think the general idea is that the traditional, or "heritage" choice is pretty much a sentimental one. Nothing wrong with that either, and there are better reasons for using wood over fiberglass handles, but to dismiss any attempts to improve a tool based on wether or not it passes the "heritage" test is actually dismissive of our greatest heritage. Our ability and drive to innovate.
m0untainm0ney I agree, that innovation is important. But i also think, that we are in a point in time where we need to innovate while simultaneously looking at sustainability. That's also a kind of innovation though, since you're just trying to improve another aspect of the product. The US is currently consuming so much or has so many people, that it is using about 3 times more resources than nature can renew. This can't be done forever, since it destroys natural resources bit by bit.
A little advice on wood splitting. Don't lead in so much. Hit on the front edge about 3/4 of the axe-head depth. It literally doubles the separating force by breaking the leading edge open . It opens the wood like a book. Really conserves energy on a long day of splitting. It is the difference between a one-two strike split and a 3-4 strike split.
Have had many axes over 30+ years. Putting following aspects into the balance a Fiskars (splitting-)axe comes in many use cases on top: quality steel, weight, durability and warranty.
Can you clear up the state of the Fiskars blade before you began your test? I cannot believe it looked like that after just a few logs since I've had mine for two years now splitting mostly ash logs and I have never had a chip. Many commenters seem to be under the impression that you started your test with a new axe but you stated that someone left it there. People seem to be ignoring that part and like usual just concentrating on what they want to believe. Nice, objective review though. For homesteading type lifestyles I would definitely go for wooden handles though just for the replaceabilitly. That warranty is only good as long as you can use it.
I don't know why the Fiskars is called "hateful"; it's an inanimate object not capable of love or hate. On the user side, I love my Fiskars, I hardly touch the old maul since I got my Fiskars. Would you use a 32" chainsaw to prune small branches?
Was your X27 made in Finland or China? I have noticed that many of the Fiskars products sold in the USA are made in China. I bought my X27 from Amazon and it was made in Finland.
Ignorant people don't know the difference and will just say that they are all crap. I bought a Chinese made x7 and it was OK for a while but it started to get some play in it so I left it at home and grabbed my friends x7 instead. I noticed a difference in the feel of it firstly and then the chop. I also noticed the metal quality due to not having to give it a sharpen at the end of each day, which sucks while on a camping trip and just want to relax by the fire and not have to file. I bought the real deal and that was almost 2 years ago. I sharpen it at the end of each week long camp instead and it's perfect.
I have been using the Fiskars X27 for 5 years averaging 12 chords of split wood yearly. No problems. Actually stays sharp well unless the head strikes the dirt/ground. Secret is strike along the edge of the round and not in the center (the heart is the softest part of the wood and absorbs energy). Example strike your round at 12 o'clock and 6 for fastest results with less effort. My humble opinion is that Fiskars is the "new school" better design. Great workout and fast results. Thank you for your nice video.
Yup, Fiskars X27 is the best splitting ax made. I thought about giving my splitting maul away, but I wouldn't want to condemn anyone else to using it.... Anyhow with the X27 I strike the edge and usually at least crack it first strike. If the round cracks, but doesn't split in 2 I hit in a different spot along the edge up to 90 degrees from the crack and almost always it will knock out a wedge or split the round in 3. ...A tip I would give is to get an old tire, cut away the sidewalls so you have just the band of tread. Pack your rounds in the tire and you can split several at once without having to readjust anything.
Just split a whole hichory tree with a fiskars, someone hid the regular maul. I agree with every thing you said about it. It is the second fiskars I have, the first one I cracked the handle abusing it. They sent me a new one free of charge and didn't even ask for the old one to be returned.
Great video, i do hope you stick with the fiskars and do a long term follow up to see if it grows on you and if it holds up better then you think it will.
wranglerstar I've hurt the 'webbing' (as you call it) with wooden axe handles too. To avoid the issue, I found you just need to 'power off' slightly earlier, just before the axe head has touched down. If you are still 'driving down' at the point of impact, you will most likely hurt your hands.
I really like you're videos, that said I cannot stand the negative connotation you put towards the fiskars axe in this comparison, especially the "hateful" title. It's better than a standard maul and your own video shows that clearly. I respect your preference for natural materials but when it comes down to it, given a choice between a composite handle superior splitter (you said it) like the fiskars or a heavy ass traditional one that you can reuse with a lot of effort I'll take the composite any day, especially with the 25 year warranty. Heritage is a great concept and so is rebuilding a tool, but fiskars warranty gives you a brand new one. And a father could pass his fiskars warranty on to his son just as an axe with 6 new handles through 25 years. Not to mention, a fiskars is so good, it gives you adrenaline as you split pieces one after another in one strike. It's too awesome to deny. It is a legit properly engineered tool to do a job.
Hes just wierdo, and I am kinda supprised that He has so many followers. Most of His videos just shows, that He is not an expert in anything what He is doing (My opinion). In this or that voting for president video, He kinda show his true nature behind him and his mind set. Thats my fealing, and as subscribers show, many people see it differently.
Matt Thompson You have no grasp on the idea of character in tools. Would you really prefer to give your son an axe with millions like it? Or would you give him the axe you got from your father, who got it from his father before him? Tools are more that just tools, ironically, they are a rite od transcension to man-hood. You can't simply buy that.
If the handle were wood he probably would have preferred it. I've used both and synthetic materials are hard on the hands and I have to wear gloves or the blood vessels in my hands will literally rupture if I actually chop a sizeable amount of wood. It's just the way it transfers vibrations. It's much like a wooden bat vs an aluminum one. Wood makes for a better handle. I'm sure the fiskers is great compared to the trash carried by stores these days, but compared to old ones like the one my pa passed down to me fiskers is trash too.
I've debated the two to my fellow friends. I guess it's what you value. Is it a lifestyle or just a chore. Splitting wood is a lifestyle and your tools become an extension of you. Organic traditional splitting maul all the way.
I have a Fiskars X25. I like it so much I have purchased their X7 hatchet and have their their 8 lb maul on order. The X25 is comfortable in my hands (no vibration) I actually enjoy using it
I also prefer a Traditional Splitting maul. I have both, but my Fisker's handle broke within a few weeks. The company send me a replacement, but I don't trust it like I do my Traditional Maul. My maul(s) have had handles break, but a new handle can be added in a short amount of time. My older one (purchased in the 1970's, has had more handles than I can count. But I tend to buy cheaper handles (sometimes factory seconds), due the the fact that they are going to break. I can go to the flea Market and buy a handle for $5.00 where a good handle will cost upwards to $12.00. And if I order, I cannot pick for grain. I have made handles my self, as taught by my Grandfather. But don't always have the time or the wood available. In closing, I want to thank you for your videos. They are entertaining, and very educational. I have solved several problems here by watching one of your videos/
I love the Fiskars X27! I use mine for camping and backpacking so the quality of the steel is less important than the the light weight. Mine has needed very little maintenance over the last few seasons of use, and as you say overstrikes with the Fiskars won't damage it at all (or it hasn't so far). To me the X27 is the superior tool for my use. If I was splitting wood for a home stove, I dunno...
Hitting a log directly in the center is the absolute worst place to hit. Hit on the leading edge followed by the far edge. Far better separation leverage.
yes !! Finally...try to hit it on the edge getting at piece of the bark!! I live in northern Michigan...Ash..Red/white oak...elm...maple...all of our hardest woods....very hard splitting
Another thing....you don't want your blade razor sharp!!! you want a broad strike..not a sharp strike..sharp just means it will stick in the wood...not separate the fibers/ grain...that's what you want...if not you will just sink the head in the log...then your just making more work
Rob who cares The bark? Not splitting bark, splitting wood. Strike the round off center toward you, then off center farthest from you in the crack. This separates the fibers easier.
A splitting maul works by forcing apart the wood with its wedge shape as it penetrates. A sharp edge will penetrate deeper because less energy is expended to cut the wood fibers. A dull edge sticks less because it does not penetrate as deeply. If more force were used to penetrate a dull blade as deeply as a sharp blade, it would get stuck just as much.
You are correct, sort of. A smaller log, that you KNOW will split in one blow should be hit in the center. A large log that you are going to chop into 4 or more pieces would be easier to split by flaking off chunks from the edges. Seeing that most logs (at least where I live) are round, I don't know what you mean mean about "leading edge". My logs have a circular edge, one on the top and one on the bottom.
Im 57, i must have split a million cords of wood ,lol. Im not a fan of a splitting maul. i have the same axe iv used for 35 years, handle broke 27 years ago and i replaced it with a long vinyl or plastic handle uses an epoxy resin to hold handle on, don`t use a sharp axe for splitting just falling. long handle and speed, also a trick is to give your axe a little sideways flick as it hits log cause far more separation.
When it come to tools I look at quality, durability, affectiveness and safety. Normally I prefer vintage tools, believing that much of our modern tools are lower in quality, but Fiskars axes are an exception. I started splitting wood at a young age and have broken handles and seen many axe heads get loose which is dangerous and lots of wasted time. Wooded handles are fine for occasional users or just for the fun of it and do videos, but for hard workers or for splitting hard wood which needs much more force I prefer Fiskars all the way.
At 11 and 12 years old my brother and I each had the requirement every day (chores) throughout the summer to each split 120 pieces of wood. The two of us used the same type of wood handled splitting maul you showed here. On the family ranch in eagle point ore we heated our house with wood and a large pot belly stove…fast forward my first job was fighting fires and I have a great fondness and respect for “real tools” it is the thing that drew me to your channel. Fast forward way ahead. I am now 65 and I had the great honor of teaching my doctor son in law how to chop wood…he loved it, and so did I. My heritage tool was the same fiskers that you show here. I got to watch his face light up when he got the swing down and heard that first satisfying crack of a log.. we had a great time,and built some respect between the both of us…I love this about your channel. I see you acting in that capacity for your son, and you do that for me as well as I always learn something. Thanks for taking the time to make this video,.
+Trekker88888 Yes i bet his children would be very pleased, "thanks dad i have always wanted your old hiccory handle axe more than anything else, i can see all sweat and blood that you have spilled by splitting wood, so heart warming it's even aged beautifully"
Hmm. Fiskars bruk was founded in 1649, so it has quite a lot tradition. How about America and your old tools... I have never seen or heard fiskars axe which composite handle would have been broken in use. Steel is modern forged and hardened steel, probably swedish origin. Shape of the head is scientifically studied and teflon coated for low friction.
I own several Fiskar tools (not only axes) and I never had any problem with any. I have x25 splitting axe and when I'm splitting I get no vibrations at all, I can work with this axe splitting all day and it splits better than any other axe or mauls I ever had. It seems to me, that you are slightly (or maybe alot) biased, because for some reason you don't like Fiskars. I used alot of those traditional mauls in the past, but to me the heavy head and wooden handle is just a romantic idea of ideal, but in comparison to modern tools doesn't work that good. But in the end it's about personal preference and there might be people like you who prefer traditional over modern tools and it's okay too.
Well it would help if you knew how to use the axe. At impact you should let loose of the axe since the point is that the axe should rotate at impact. If you grip it hard and work against the axe it will of course not work at all. It seems to me that the "vipukirves" need to come with more instructions for the end users. Here is a video of 1 who knows how to use it: ruclips.net/video/9jDR_2Zsr40/видео.html . It does not require more force.
Hi Cody. After watching your vid on the Fiskars axe I noticed one of them on a shelf at WalMart. I hadn't realized the handle was hollow nylon. I've always used classic axes because that's what I started with. For splitting I've always liked the axe I got from my mother in law. It's a New England style with the large pall. My inlaws were from West Virginia. Don't know the weight but it's heavier than the Michigan cruisers that I find around home. Not much old growth cut down around here. Mostly second growth or fence row scrubs. For anything with knots or twisted grain like scrub fence row trees I use wedges and a sledge. The Fiskars axe has a short handle for a splitter. The New England has a longer handle. As a kid I learned to break my wrists to increase the head speed. I think a longer handle helps with that. I noticed your maul had a longer handle than the Fiskars. Do you think that makes a difference? I agree with your review. I'd rather have the replaceable handle than the nylon or fiberglass. I've had the New England for 38 years now and still have the original handle. Holds a good edge too. The only striking tools I've seen, that failed like the Fiskars in your review were Harbor Freight crap that I ran into on the job. Penny wise and pound foolish. Soft steel or cast neither is worth the trouble.
Theres nothing magical about the Fiskars. It's a stick with a sharp piece of metal on the end. What makes it work better than most is that Fiskars got the angle correct on the business end. Too wide and it lacks penetration too thin and it lacks separating force. The weight of the head is perfectly matched to the angle.
About grip/ I have 4 different Fiskars axes and a few heritage models. Our oldest ones ive used for about 35 years. I am very happy with the Fiskars handles. Ive learned to press the grip a lot less and never hurt my hands anymore.
I inherited an old Axe which was made by my great great Granddad. It's only had 3 new handles and 2 new axe heads fitted to it since 1830. It's starting to look kinda modern though! My sister has a broom from my great great Grandma, its had several broom heads and handles through the years, these items must be worth a fortune!!!
I never had a problem with my fiskars.... I don’t have the splitting maul like that one ... but I do have the midsize chopping/felling axe... and I’ve routinely used it to split... and never had an edge issue... only small touch ups with a file to maintain sharpness... and ohh almost forgot .. did let a friend use it and they were chopping on the ground .. and hit a rock I think and I had to do some light die grinding action... other then that .... hitting only wood loll it’s been great
6:33 Fiskars is not a heritage tool??? Company which was founded in 1649, and has made axes ever since has not heritage? It may not be your heritage (tool) but they surely do have heritage. Also, there is a reason why Fiskars doesn´t produce axes with wooden handle anymore. That is called a development.
Fiskars has a great heritage but that axe is no heritage tool. It's an ugly disposable utilitarian affair, but there isn't anything wrong with that. It's a great axe
Classical physics says that the Fiskars should be the better AXE. It's lighter which means you should be able to swing it much faster than the fat and heavy maul. Most of you can probably remember grade 12 physics and the kinetic energy equation says: KE = 0.5*M*V^2. So since the velocity is squared, swinging it faster will impart MUCH greater energy into the log than increasing the weight. I noticed that in this video Wranglerstar was swinging both axes at the same speed which means that the maul would clearly win - it's heavier. If he used the Fiskars as it was intended, I think it would give the maul a run for it's money.
I've had an X27 for three years that I use almost every day. It stays sharper than any maul I've had and I've had over a dozen. Granted I would sharpen it every day anyway because I love having sharp tools, but I don't hit rocks very often so I'm probably a bad judge of how well they stay sharp. I haven't experienced the handle shock that you described. I can use my maul all day before it starts to hurt my hands and it seems to absorb the shock pretty well when I hit a bad knot. I agree it's not something I would pass down, but when kids inherit tools, nine times out of ten they will let them rust anyway.
"I agree it's not something I would pass down, but when kids inherit tools, nine times out of ten they will let them rust anyway." This is the truth in a nutshell. It might hurt some of these homesteaders/preppers/whatevers trending this week, feelings but its the truth. Its a romantic notion but lets be real for a second. Do they really think every old tool is a 'heritage' that their son or daughter is going to cherish? Simply put NO. Some things maybe, but most things no. Use what tool works for you... (20 bucks says his son will be using a Fiskars and that old 'heritage tool' will stay in the shed because hes tired of the finicky stuff that goes into using old tools and just wants to get the job done... That is if his son is into this stuff when hes older, he could be like most kids and rebel against his parents and never be interested in 'homesteading' the rest of his life)
but the friskar really is a better choice though - learn to use it and stop whining about the plastic the friskars has a lifetime warranty also - lol i love the natural feel of the oil based handle of my friskars
Since you like making axe handles for axes I would suggest that you put that maul through a destruction test along with the x27... and see how many hickory handles you have to make before you break the handle on the Fiskars. Here is a video to help you design the destruction test. Fiskars X15 Distruction Test Pt 1
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
![FendiDa Rappa - Clock Dat ft. Shamar Marco [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3NBU8KHdxYY/mqdefault.jpg)
I broke my Fiskars...I was mortified...I told them over email, and they sent a brand new one, no questions asked. Top that service!
Evan Peterson I’m not judging your reply I just want to pose the question that if it was Minnesota cold outside and you needed to split wood to keep the house warm waiting on their customer service would not happen. When you make a cheap product replacement of garbage with more garbage is not as big a problem for your company as it is for the customer who probably went out and bought a new one long before you could send them a replacement. Did you get your replacement next day priority shipped? Some people live in places like Alaska where a tool you can’t self maintain is idiocy.
Hey, my kids lost mine, will they replace it?!?!
@@jeremyvculek3090 Idk Buy two of the fiskars then.
@@jeremyvculek3090 as mentioned in one of my replies, I bring it back where I buy it, same day bud!!!
@@rafenatho5406 no but they won't replace any maul!!! Stupid reply bud!!
I've used Fiskars scissors, shovels, hatchets, garden tools etc. And I love them! My brother-in-law borrowed a shovel and abused it- Fiskars warrantied it no questions asked. I had to wait for shipping, but they let me keep the remains of the old shovel till the new one came. (the old one was messed up, but still worked half decent even when broken)
briansmobile1 I like Fiskars too.
I love my fiskars maul and hookaroon
Only hesitation I'd have about Fiskars mauls is the price. Video claims (guesses -- apparently with no research) they're about the same price. ($20) Try triple that -- if you're lucky. Fiskars can command a premium price -- because their reputation (yes, even he'uh in 'merka) is quite high. (anything but "hated")
briansmobile1 My shed is full of Fiskars tools. My axes, maul, post hole digger, and shovels. My wife has many gardening tools. Can’t beat the quality and price.
Keep the Fiskars, avoid the brother in law……
Fiskars in my opinion are in a league of their own. Selling firewood on the side, I've been through and tested so many axes trying to find the perfect one. I've had the fiskars for 2 years now and would have easily split over 200t and it's still perfect. A quick sharpen every know and then and she's good to go. It splits like no other axe I've had. As for the handle..... My god that thing has had some serious knocks and it's still perfect.
Thanks for the comment. What sharpener do you recommend?
@@whata86 у Fiskars есть своя точилка, которая прекрасно подходит для топора и ножа. 2 в 1.
I used my Fiskars X27 to clear twenty oak trees on our property and after 2 weeks of using it and 4 years of owning it. It amazing! Cuts and splits well and never did I fear the handle was going to break of like my other wooden handle Ax. Also Fiskars has a life time warranty if it breaks they'll send you a new one. That's confidence in their product.
"The handle is not replaceable". Right, it's not. But the axe has 25 year warranty.
+Dawid W But dealing with the warranty issue can be an "issue"....
+Wranglerstar hahahahaha
+Wranglerstar It's not with Fiskars
+Wranglerstar no issue at all mine snapped where i hold it in my hands took a picture sent it to them and they sent me a new one no questions asked.
+Dawid W Yeah because you buy a splitting maul to deal with customer service, and it's really convenient to waste your time shipping stuff back and forth.
Fiskars axes have the lifetime warranty for a reason. Breaking them is very hard and requires lot of abuse. So the real comparison is between the benefits of "can be replaced" and "doesn't need to be replaced".
I think it is a little silly to compare to products if you are very biased towards the inferior for romantic(unrational) reasons. I like mechanical watches, yet i use batterypowered watches regularly, and I would never even consider comparing them although they serve almost identical purposes.
Good point. But I think it is missing the point of Wranglerstar's channel. He is looking for tools that he can go out and buy once and then maintain them indefinitely on his own property. He wants to be able to replace the handle without having to contact a company. Real world situations, 99% of the time you'll be great with a product like Fiskars.
I mean watches is a pretty awful comparison, the real reason most people wear battery powered watches over mechanical is simply the cost. A mechanical watch is easily between 3-10k for a basic watch, without any silver, gold, gems, etc in it. They're many times more expensive than a quartz battery watch with similar to identical construction, the complexity of the movement, and the work that goes into designing and building it is that much. But they are many advantages they have over a battery powered watch, they're incredibly long lasting, and can run for years if not decades if you wear it every day. Its simply the cost of producing a mechanical watch that makes them more rare than a battery powered one.
@@SuperAwesomeCloudMan I love mechanical watches, but I disagree.
A) A basic mechanical watch is nowhere near 3-10k. Perfectly serviceable Seiko 5s with automatic movements can be had for well under $200. Heck, if a person isn't averse to going the Chinese route and buying on Aliexpress, you can buy a Starking or a Cadisen for $60 with a mechanical movement and a freaking sapphire crystal.
B) While it's true that mechanical watches don't rely on a battery which will need to be changed, that doesn't mean they're immune to maintenance. Those mechanical movements do eventually wear out. Heck, most luxury Swiss brands tell you to have them serviced every 5 years, and while I personally think that's overkill, I wouldn't personally run any mechanical watch for more than 10 years without having it serviced.
C) Further to my last point, you can now easily pick up solar-powered watches from Casio, Citizen and Seiko that, just like a mechanical movement, can theoretically run indefinitely with the only caveat being the possible need for servicing, a downside shared with mechanical movements.
D) Quartz watches can take more abuse than mechanical watches, for the simple fact that mechanical movements have way more moving parts. To find a mechanical watch that's as tough as a $50 G-Shock DW5600, you need to spend dozens of times more money for something like a Sinn U1. Quartz watches also aren't susceptible to magnetic fields like mechanical watches are, which require either specialty non-magnetic hairsprings or shielded case construction in order to cope.
E) A cheap digital watch is ultimately a lot more functional than a mechanical watch. A $50 digital watch gets you a watch with time, date, alarm, countdown timer and chronograph functions. Even just having a chronograph in a mechanical watch pretty much guarantees a price well over a thousand dollars. A perpetual calendar, function that is absolutely trivial for a digital watch, costs into the tens of thousands in a mechanical watch because of how complex the movement driving that complication is. If you want all those functions (perpetual calendar, chronograph, sonnerie) in a mechanical watch, you're getting into Grand Complication territory, which is basically restricted to only the most elite luxury watch brands like Patek, Vacheron, JLC and AL&S, will run literally hundreds of thousands of dollars.
F) The elephant in the room: at the end of the day, even a mid-tier quartz watch will absolutely waste even the most expensive mechanical movements when it comes to accuracy. Rolex's "Superlative Chronometer" rating is among the most strict standards of movement accuracy, even stricter than COSC, and it requires a movement's timing perform no worse than -2/+2 seconds per day. Even cheap quartz watches have no problem exceeding that level of accuracy. Meanwhile, Citizen has recently introduced a luxury quartz watch with an accuracy of -1/+1 seconds *per year*.
TL;DR: While good, inexpensive mechanical watches are certainly out there, two qualities that mechanical watches will never have over quartz is value and accuracy. If someone is looking for a watch to be used as a tool, there's no reason to choose a mechanical watch over a quartz. Mechanical watches remain popular in watch circles because people feel more of a personal connection to the escapement's "heartbeat" in a mechanical movement, because they still respect the high level of mechanical engineering and artistry that goes into them, and because they're a statement of the wearer's taste and style. I say this as someone who only owns mechanical watches: more people wear quartz watches because, for the price, they are simply better at keeping time.
loyly yeah but he still told it like it was
@@outdoordad1656 "He wants to be able to replace the handle without having to contact a company"
But if you never need to replace the handle that is irrelevant.
That is like looking for something that will break when you have the option of something that will not break, because that thing that will break you can fix.
Also you are kinda wrong he is using pants that have a lifetime warranty because he can just contact the company send the ones he has back to them and they fixes it.
If he is ok with that on work cloths he should be on tools.
I find Fiskars tools to be far superior to many other leading tool brands
basically what I took away from this comparison is that Fiskars is not preferred because it's not american.
+teutonieth No, it's because Fiskar has a few flukes in it's system. Flukes that only can be solved by buying a new one each time a problems arises. One of the main problems is the steel they are using: low quality. Old traditional ones, whether they are American or European or whatever are easy to repair and last much longer. Plus it's a piece of heritage too. :)
TheOpelkoenjas First, while that may be the case, it is not what he has implied. Second, i assume the fluke you talk of is the synthetic shaft, which i have actually never seen breaking.
Third, heritage has nothing to do with efficiency.
Fourth, a good "traditional" axe is comparatively expensive ranging around 300€ and needing to be found from specialized blacksmiths while Fiskars is fairly cheap at ~100€ and can be found at any local hardware store. It's the everymans axe.
At any rate, my preference is neither Fiskars or that thing he has, but my Gränfors Bruk.
teutonieth No, the fluke I'm talking about is the way to soft metal Fiskar uses. It feels like it's not designed to chop hard wood, but rather soft wood like birch. Each time you use it on hard wood you need to get it to the bench to remove metal chips and sharpen it. The handle is not the issue, it's pretty strong and more lightweight compared to an original wooden one. But then again, you don't need a lot of weight and strength to chop birch-like wood, right?
I have a cheap and heavy $50 ax (3 kilo) and a, old $250 blacksmith one (3 kilo), and I use them to chop hard wood (oak being one example). Depending on my mood, I'll use either the cheap one or the old one. Both get the job the job done without a hassle. No chipping, no need to run to bench every single time, nothing. Just a quick swipe to clean it off when done, and voilà. Ready for the next batch of wood. Fiskar on the other hand, oh boy. Accidentally strike a knot a few times and the sharp metal simply either bends over or chips off (which is a dangerous situation).
Jugde S yes. yes i do. i have seen his vid on that axe.
Jugde S because of moronic implications.
Why is the Fiskars so loathed in America? Here in Finland it is the most trusted-upon tool brand and a real classic.
Another commenter said that in different places Fiskars uses different steel. I don't know if that's accurate, but that's what they said.
My buddy has had the same Fiskars axe for over 10 years. He loves them, and I enjoyed it when I got to use it, and now in my own yard. Cheers from Texas.
Because its a awesome product thats not Made in America... its a flaw in our culture
I've brutalized my Fiskars, and to be honest the steel holds an edge for a long time. No problems with the actual axe head. The handle however is dreadful, it's ultra rigid so when you strike, the forces go directly into your body - wooden handles flex slightly on impact so a large amount of the force dissipates in the form of a vibration/flexing in the handle. Over the course of hours of striking with a rigid handle, you'll be a bit achy. Not the end of the world, but it's the difference between chopping being a chore and being a joy to do.
Just trust the flare. You can almost let go off the axe. It will grab your finger and work like a pivot. All the power you are using to hold the axe when it already hits the wood is too late anyway and good for nothing. Also I find the Fiskars handle to be a lot flexier than hickory or any other wooden handle I've come across and my logic says that will actually soften the impact, that's why they put the springy things in car shock absorbers.
That Fiskars beat the fuck outta that American one......shame shame.
Eric Bauman Yes, it really did. Hey, I didn't WANT it too....I'm American as they come, but IT DID!!!!
I have used Fiskars for years and they are superior at splitting wood. I get no vibration at all and never had chipping like he got. I spit hardwoods green and seasoned. I have never seen a fiskars handle break or come loose. If by change you break one you get a brand new one. Also due to their low weight you can use them all day long.
What size fiskars do you recommend for splitting?
I broke the handle in my fiskars in four swings trying to split elm
Solution: craft a maul using the Fiskar's geometry and the traditional's materials.
+Dangit_Bobby - I think they listened! Take a look at the IsoCore 8-lb Maul - www2.fiskars.com/Products/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Axes-and-Mauls/IsoCore-8-lb-Maul-36
+varun009 The modern steel used in the Fiskars needed resharpening after the test. The traditional blacksmithed maul didn't.
You can't say "modern steel is superior" without knowing how the "old steel" was made. Skilled blacksmiths can make really good steel with traditional methods, and more than that, they can work the steel so it gets the exact qualities the tool needs.
Jonatas Silveira Baldo Except modern steel production is superior. All you'd expect from a blacksmith's steel is higher carbon content, with poorer consistency.
In every respect, the steel in the Fiskars is probably superior. More uniform carbon content, better hardenability, better edge retention (when PROPERLY sharpened, which I don't usually see Cody doing, because he likes his axes to be extremely sharp). The grind on a maul should be rather fat, because it's not supposed to cut through wood.
Also, blacksmith's don't make steel. that would be a smeltery.
Dangit_Bobby Hey dont diss us blacksmiths with those ol metal makers, we work with whats effective/fun
Good casual review. I respect your comments about feel, vintage and such.
But when it comes to your comment about the quality of steel, you are off the chart quite a bit. The Fiskars is definitely not a bad quality steel. Compared to your maul, it might be a different quality of steel. Both your maul and the Fiskars have hardened forged steel. There are a few reasons why you maul will hold its limited sharpness a longer time. The blunt edge profile and its steel is harder. These properties are not about good or bad quality, it is about steel preference. If you want to have a sharper tool, that is easier to sharpen, you choose softer steel, but if you prefer a not so sharp edge, that hold up for a longer time, but also is tougher to sharpen, then you pick the steel in your maul. Fiskars steel in the splitting axe can be sharpened into razor blade sharpness, chopping hair off your arm....That's the advantage with a softer steel. A sharp edge penetrates the wood deeper, and makes splitting easier.
At about 17 seconds into the video you show briefly the edge of the Fiskars, which edge is already dented. Now after splitting, at 3m34sec into the video, you imply that the Fiskars got dented in the splitting test, and had to be sharpened. That is absolutely WRONG! This will drop my grade on your review video from 5/5 to 3.5/5.
yayamensun
It's not an issue of steel quality with the Fiskars. The Fiskars has a soft temper so it's easier to sharpen... but that comes at the cost of the edge becoming dull faster, or rolling.
Terve! Thank you for a interesting comparison, but ofcourse traditional Finnish axes are better and have a longer heritage than any American. Fiskars has been making axes and tools continuously since 1649 in my home village Pohja in Finland. Fiskars later moved its factory to the nearby village of Billnäs, where they used to do even better axes, all kinds of tools and other steel products, aswell as fine furniture until the end of 1950s. A third important if not so common brand was Sorsakoski, but in the old times almost all Finnish men and houses and the army had Billnäs axes in everyday use. The modern Swedish Hultafors reminds very closely of Billnäs axes, but here we treditionally made the handle of pine and not from some finer, foreign hickory. Today, the plastic Fiskars axe is almost fourty years old and everyone have them, they last forever, are very effective and very light. I have seen a test unit in the factory museum that has been repeating a heavy strike with the same F* axe for over twenty yearsday after day and the handle is still fine. I don't know what you did to your Fiskars blade but mine has been sharp for years with lots of neglegt. I too have restored many traditional axes but I must say that the Fiskars is very high quality product, especially because it is not made in USA but in FINLAND!!! Oh, about the lever-like Vipukirves, it is considered as a bad joke around here, nobody buys them...
Finland is a worthless country that nobody cares about; many people have never even heard of it. One of these days you backward people will learn how to make a modern tool.
@@profd65 Would this qualify. LNG-powered icebreaker Polaris - Full-scale ice trials of the Aker ARC 130 design ruclips.net/video/p9E0Q05-3Zg/видео.html
@@profd65 Not a big surprise if americans have never heard of Finland, they barely know the continents.
Ponsse Scorpion King.
There's a modern tool for you, made in Finland.
@@1992Tuomas
Americans were too busy inventing the microprocessor and operating system in your computer--as well the Internet itself--to learn that stuff.
Finns on the other hand can go to a wall map and stick a pin in the country of Botswana. Let me congratulate you and pat you on the head...GOOD JOB.
@@profd65 like linux?
Just because a tool is vintage doesn't mean that it is good. I have 3 Fiskars products and they all have worked great.
I see both sides of the fence/coin, so i went and bought the Fiskars X7 purely for survival hiking (Lightweight, handle is amazing), and both the Gransfors Bruk Scandinavian Forest Axe and Gransfors Bruk Hand Hatchet. Wranglerstar's Channel, especially his Axe and tool videos are some of the best on the internet, hands down, he does a wonderful job of throughly putting review tools through their paces, and he has enabled me to make more informed decisions in my life when it comes to the purchasing of built for purpose tools and equipment. Big thanks to you Mr Wranglerstar!!! :)
I love your videos BTW, But you carry a Glock, not necessarily a heritage firearm, it is polymer, not wood handles, and it doesnt feel as good as a 1911 perse... But it gets the Job done. Different tool for different job of course but what are your thoughts on that? You discussed the different fiber materials for clothing, maybe you can talk about firearms too.
LOL! You got him there Glock is definitely the Fisker’s of firearms.
"But you carry a Glock,..."
I totally agree with you on this. Wranglerstar "forgets" that those foreign (Austrian) handguns are very popular in the USA. Why can't Wranglerstar be seen wearing a Colt 1911? Being a Glock owner makes him less patriotic.
i respect the authenticity with which you chop wood. Im getting ready to split a big ole' pile of hickory and elm with a standard maul. The birds chirping and sounds of splitting doesn't get old. Great vids Wranglerstar.
I share your passion for heritage tools, well made clothes, boots and American steel. I have several old axes in many makes, patterns and weights. I agree with everything you said about both choppers as I use both. That being said I am first and foremost a believer in function over form. Despite sharing the satisfaction of using a GB or other vintage American axe I migrate towards the X27 for a long day of splitting. At the end of the day I get more done with less fatigue.I believe the handle has a lifetime warranty to boot. On a side note I haven't had the edge failure as seen in your video. Being from the Midwest I split very hard deciduous trees. Elm, Oak, Maple and Locust. Must have been a bad batch of steel since splitting conifer should in theory be easier. P.S. I look forward to checking for a new video everyday.
Drinking a beer and watching some Canadian dude chop wood on a Sunday night. Best quarantine ever.
Weird, I used a fiskar for more than 2 years now. I still didn't sharp it yet and the cutting edge still clean and sharp.
Biased...the Fiskars is superior he just doesn't like that it is better. Biggest gripe, not something you can pass down. Yes you can. This guy does everything he can to damn it, but it is a great axe.
Aaron Tracy never had such dents in my Fiskars after splitting any sorts of wood. this review Is utter rubbish.
Probably an improperly ground edge.
the metal is very low quality doesn't hold an edge well I can attest to this and I can split just as well if not better with a more comfortable hickory handles American maul it's all about how you swing it
Jonathon Satterfield .. have you ever tried fiskars axe? i doubt you have. my axes' edges are in great shape after years of usage. dont where this guy whacked the axe to get it destroyed.
yeah I had a fiskars machete that dented after cutting some brush down too idk maybe it depends on area maybe different metals idk
Fiskars is clearly already used (you can see the "FISKARS" label being already worn at the beginning of the video). It is a stupid claim to say that the blade would have worn in what, 10 hits? Fiskars axes do not seem to rust like other axes, eventhough they are not stainless. You can easily leave a Fiskars axe outside in the rain. Plastic handles have some advantages over wooden ones: they don't break as easily in case you miss and hit the wood with the handle, they don't mind weather whereas wooden handles can start rotting, and they are lighter. I do think that plastic handles vibrate more than wooden handles. Fiskars axes can take a serious beating on the back part of the head (you can pound it with a sledgehammer or use the axe as one).
Rami Nieminen junk
I have a Fisker's for over a year and the head was perfect until I missed the chopping block once. If just going into the wood the head does not get messed up like that
I took a fiskars hatchet that was left outside for a good while took, a file to it. It sharpened up nicely with very minimal pitting.
I can't help but comment on the fact that you have been proudly carrying a "plastic" handgun around for years.
I split with a fiskars and I love it! True, you cannot replace the handle. However, Fiskars gives you a lifetime warranty with their axes. If anything goes wrong, send them a pic of the damage and they'll send you a new one.
you'd probably have to send in the broken one though
Is a Fiskars rep. going to come and sharpen your stuff after nearly every use because of inferior alloying? Or come change the swing dynamics with a new handle? Will the oil from your hands eventually make the handle more comfortable over time?
LOL is a Fiskars going to come sharpen your axe? Man, if you can't sharpen your own blades, you should just have you wood delivered and stacked for you, cupcake.
That's right! You don't need to replace the handle. They have a lifetime warranty. I use the heck out of Fiskars products and LOVE them.
pokn beans will the fiskars cook your dinner or keep you warm in bed?
Hi I'm 19 and I do lot lots of splitting with that fiskars and have found it to quite an enjoyable tool. Although you were wrong about the bottom of the handle where it jets out, after more than 45 min of splitting it starts to bang against your pinkie finger.
When you split the wood with knots in it I noticed that you split from the top of the tree to the bottom on the log, in my experience I have always found that it is easier to split from the bottom of the tree up in reference to the log.
Thanks for taking the time to read my comment.
Agreed re the splitting direction! I think the tree is naturally weaker that way - it resists splitting in the way that a branch would pull off.
How is his experience “wrong”?? Just because it affected you a certain way doesn’t mean it does him or anybody else.
I have been using a Fiskars X27 for 2 years on oak and hickory. The steel in mine is very good and holds an excellent edge. If you use a chopping block as the directions tell you too the edge does not chip. It splits knots and crooked grain much easier than any maul I have ever used. I have never experienced vibrations in the handle and have intentionally overstruck the handle and no problems. Lifetime warranty on the Fiskars. I sure can't say that about any hickory handle I ever used. I split 8-10 cords a year of tough hardwood and without question the Fiskars is the best splitting tool I have ever used. Its lighter weight is much less tiring to use. Using a maul I always had to use wedges on knotty rounds but I have not used a wedge once since getting the Fiskars. I split wood all the way up to 18-22 inch diameter hardwood. Unless someone steal my Fiskars I won't use a maul again and only then until I can get another X27. Well there is my 2 cents worth.
Thanks for your 2 cents worth. Like your good self, I cut a lot of hardwood which is difficult to split. English Elm is the hardest to split and has ruined my cheap large axe, (my fault for pounding it through with another axe). But I have found an easier way, I now split the difficult logs with a chainsaw. So I am looking for a new axe and the X27 seems a good choice. Your comments are valued and duly noted by myself. Thank you Mr Gallagher.
I concur with you. although I don't split half of what you do. It's Fiskars all the way. when I got and tried my Fiskars I said to my self "finally, some evolution here".
I have used the Fiskars X27 for two years now...best splitting axe I have ever owned. Didn’t want to buy because of a non wood handle...but after about five minutes of splitting I have never looked back.
"Modern homesteading" and talks bad about Fiskars axe for not having any heritage or special feeling. :)
Antti Harri nyt antti puhhuu asiaa
Antti Harri se puhuu shaibaa meittin kirveist kato vaan sen takii ku Fiskars ei o mitää jenkkiroskaa :D
@@inkkari6603 Todella omituista huomata, kuinka jenkki ymmärtää Fiskarsin tilanteen, mutta suomalaiset eivät. Fiskars on tosiaan hylännyt kunniakkaan suomalaisen kirves- ja puukkoperimän. Tilalle on tullut halvalla muovista missä milloinkin tehtyä tavaraa. Nykyiset puukot ja veitset ovat pelkkää halpisrihkamaa, mutta kirves sentään voi olla ihan toimiva halpiskirves, jos sattuu samaan käsiin hyvää tuotantoa olevan yksilön. Epämiellyttäviä ja epäergonomisia toki nuo nykyiset kirveet ovat mutta toimivia saattavat silti olla. Nykyisin suomalainen joutuu ostamaan ruotsalaisen kirveen, jos haluaa ostaa hyvän kirveen. Se tympii.
Kevyt necropost mut ei se oo niin justiisa 👌
Fiskars silti bätäng
@@inkkari6603 Joo olihan tuo korjattava, kun kuluneista vuosista huolimatta kukaan ei sitä ollut tehnyt.
I agree with your thoughts on vintage tools etc. But like you almost said, there ain't no better axe for making firewood than these splitting Fiskars'. I've used three different Fiskars' for over 20 years and not a single one has broken. And i use em daily. I love wooden handles and 'old' hand tools, but when it comes to splitting firewood: Fiskars. Would love to get one of those american mauls!
After watching you use these two axes for splitting wood the choose is clear to me .....Hydraulic splitter ..: )
Haha that made me smile. Smart decision tho hehe. But some of us prefer to hit and hit and smash
I love my Fiskars
+Brian Legros Good! To each their own.
But I do have a Granfors Bruks as well.. Never too many axes. Great channel
+Brian Legros thanks,
+Wranglerstar in Massachusetts's I still see Collins mauls at hardware store axes as well
+Daniel Smith Hey, I'm from Mass too! Not for much longer though. Moving to Maine in the spring and hopefully to the Pacific NW with in five years.
I learnt to split using a blockbuster on the big dense Australian hardwoods and ever since going fiskars I find them a dream. I have used the axes for years now and nothing compares, I have used them with a dull as head with not a bit of point on them and they still eat the traditional blockbusters alive, one hit splits pretty well everytime.
I think I'll just get a woodstove big enough to take the entire log. ;)
That's one huge woodstove
I am with ya spliting is the part that i like the least about cutting fire wood i always seam to get the ones with all the knots in it!
Lol
Gotta heat my California redwood log cabin . Lol.
striderz69 Man that thing is GNARLY Right out of mad max Sweet
Thank you for this comparison. I too prefer a real tool that was built and cared for with pride over something new and flashy. I have often been accused of working in the stone age of tools and instruments as most of my inventory you will find will be read in dials and vernier gradients and not a single digital display will be in sight. I will admit to having some Fiskars scissors for my soft goods work, but I have never owned any of the Fiskars axes or mauls. You yet again have given me a fair insight as to the properties of both and for me, I will continue to maintain my good steel and wood tools.
Thank you
Keep up the good work and God bless.
Is it nice to have a Rolex watch? I mean its visually pleasing and design stands test of time, you can pass it on to your off spring. Is it needed heck no, Id go for efficiency over looks when it comes to a tool. I like having or using an axe that my grandfather used but I have no need to if there is a better axe/maul on the market. :) Nice vid tho
Put the knots towards the bottom, not the top. More leverage is applied, cracks open easier
New splitter here. Thanks for the tip!
@Dan - True. It's the sort of rookie mistake that makes a person question the judgement of the reviewer.
When you are cutting logs, try to get knot near the end, not in the middle.
I did happen to notice that at the 1:05 mark you can see that the fiskars is already damaged before you even strike the first log.
Perhaps he abused it prior to the video so that he would have more reasons to disparage the HATEFUL Fiskars, also you can't even buy the "heritage" maul he compared it to.
The fact that so many people commented on how the Fiskars was way better than other axes despite his dislikes
Heritage. Well, the Fiskars is one of the oldest companies in the western world dating back to 1649. I have a mid/large size plastic handle Fiskars splitter that dates to sometime in the early 90's and bought by my now late father. I don't know the history exactly, but I think my axe is a rather early version with the plastic handle. I don't use it daily, but I use it make kindling every now and then when needed. Nowadays hydraulics are for the heavy splitting. The handle is slippery when wet or snowy, but a coarse sanding helps that a lot. Around the same time as my father got the big one he bough me a small one. Now my son has that.
Sure these are not state of the art craftsmanship, but more tools for the masses. They do a damn good job at it. With a wooden handle that would have gotten broken and the head lost most likely during these about 25 years. The tools that get used, are the ones that work and last.
Chop wood for a day with both, and then figure out which is best?
A friend of mine still chops all his firewood with an x27. And his house heats only with wood and our winter is around 7 months of a year. The only thing he complains about is his food consumption.
About the leveraxe: that I don't like and the developer is somewhat intrusive, to be polite.
You’re right the Fisker‘s doesn’t have the feel of a wood handled Swedish splitting mall. But one thing it has going for it is when all your wood handled malls have loose heads or been broken and you haven’t had time to fix them you can always grab that Fisker‘s and split some wood.
Been using fiskars axes and hatchets for 10 years and the oldest is my fathers splitting maul propably 15-20 years old. Anyways, i've used those for firewood, logging, chopping, stripping branches, cutting, sculpting, as a hammer and god knows what else. And none of my handles have ever been broken. To break the handle you have to be quite screw-up, since i havent been able to break it due to miss-swings with logs or rocks.
The steel in the head should be quite good quality, since my axes are always sharp and will hold the edge when working with good clean wood. Only the splitting axes are chipped on the edge due to rocks, nails and other debris inside the wood. Yet all they need is touch-up with stone every morning you start and it will go through wood like butter. Since you're splitting the wood, not sculpting, you don't actually need razor-like edge.
Interesting is that I live in finland myself and it always could be that fiskars markets less-quality axes and tools abroad to keep the cost-profit in balance. Since in my fiskars's the handle is a lot more solid and won't vibrate, nor break. Might also be that in last few years, products just aren't as good quality as they were. Don't know, good tools in my opinion and I always support domestic products ;)
I really don't know if the quality of Fiskars in the US is different from that in germany, but Fiskars uses by no means a cheap steel. if you don't abuse your Fiskars you don't have to sharpen it. And they are razorsharp delivered. When you just hit wood and no stones, the fiskars steel is durable and hard and hols it's edge extremely long.
LOL, nonsense,
Wranglerstar what exactly is nonsense? I did some research. Fiskars stays silent about what steel they use. They just mentioned it is a borium steel, which doesn't tell us anything . The hardness is 58 HRC, other sources mention 55 HRC. After what i've read i think that the quality varies indeed. Some customers got very bad steel quality, some others got very durable axes. The 4 fiskars i have are all very good and a bit harder than any other axe that i sharpened so far. And i sharpen axes and knives for cash for over 10 years now.
LOL "Oiling their grandads wooden handle"...good one
In Germany, the Scandinavian countrys are well known for their really good tool steels and overall quality. They are amazing woodworkers and build the best woodhouses worldwide. Also have a lot of cheap green energy. Fiskard, mora, hultafors, gränsfors, martiini and so on build very good and affordable tools. I would always prefer Scandinavian tools over US stuff. USA has other stuff which is known as high quality. At least from my European perspective.
wow your an ass brings up valid points and you just insult him i guess i know not to come back to this chanel
Fiskars, the Nokia 3310 of the axe world. (it is funny because both are Finnish and both are indestructible.)
+ShinobIHunteR666 actually the x27s are fairly easy to break when splitting wood
+Tyler Egan If you manage to break one, just send a picture to Fiskars and they will send you a new one.
I own an X27, X17, and a X11.... I have used my X27 Super Splitter on countless rounds over the years and I have overstruck the handle several times. Never had it crack, split, or splinter. It takes abuse over and over and over again if you want it to.... I'm not saying it's indestructible but in my experience it's damn near close.
I believe here in England they call it 'Horses for courses'. Good test and honest comments. Well done!
well, you almost convinced me to get a traditional one :) I just bought the Fiskars on sale and I really like it, you said that the fact the handle is not remplacable is a down point, I think it is a very good point... if you manage to break it or just an hairline crack, you just have to send a picture to Fiskars and they send you a brand new one... I look easier than changing the handle or at less cheaper
I have an array of fiskars forest tools. and I think they are great value for money. I have also experienced the vibration of the synthetic shaft on the axes, however it seem that it only gives vibrations if the blow is planted a tad "deep" in the object. What I am trying to say is that, if the first strike does not produce a split, but the head sinks in so deep that the shaft hits the object, you get the vibrations.
I've worked around the vibration issue by always hitting the edge of the object until i get a split going. Works very well this way in my opinion.
I hope this made sense. (I'm from Denmark, so english is not my first language)
Thank you for the good work on the videos, Cody.
My experience with a Fiskars splitting axe is different to that of Mr. Wranglerstar: I agree that the handle is not pleasant, but it's not _much_ worse than my wooden-handled splitting axe. And, more importantly, the edge stays shart a lot longer than the reviewer would make you believe. Also, it's relatively easy to sharpen - a 12-15 minute job once per season.
Shart
Lol
I was given an X27 and I have to say I do prefer it to the maul for a long day of splitting. I agree that being able to replace the handle and the quality of steel makes the maul a far more practical axe (as I said I was given the X27) but my experience of the X27s handle was the opposite, it absorbs far more of the impact shock than the maul to the point where I barely feel it. Something I found I prefer with the maul is the weight. You can lean back into a swing while using the maul as a counterweight and I've found this to be by far the most effective way to split large rounds of 50 centimeters and above.
Excellent unbiased comparison!
I still use nearly 20 years old Fiskars axe.
Why is Fiskars hated over there?
Here in Finland it is one of the most respected toolmaker. Of course the fact that the company is Finnish also, makes it more popular too.
I wouldn't dwell on it too much, I've heard plenty of people praising the Fiskars. I guess in the end it's each man for himself. I would imagine that, in this case at least, the looks might put a few people off as well, hehe.
everyone has their opinion but when it comes to something that is made in your country city or even something that was passed down from generation to generation has a better chance to have a better feel and more of an emotional attachment to em. there is nothing wrong with it, reviews are that persons opinion on what they are use to or like using more.
Jake Riethmeier except if your just brand myopic with no example or willingness to compare, because Fiskars are not professional tools
I have lived in the bush all my life and I love my Fiskars axes (inexpensive, work well, don't hurt my hands). Wranglerstar is is kind of a wannabe live in the bush all your life kinda guy
Yes of course i did not mean to insult American axes or tools!
I was just wondering why Cody used the word "hated" becouse it brought to my mind that Fiskars-tools abroad are cheap quality.
I also believe that anyone has a right to like whatever they want. Many times you trust your homelands products better than foreign, like i do and Cody seems to do too! Nothing wrong with that.
Glad I came across this video. I saw your best axes under $50 video and didn't really understand why you didn't like the Fiskars axe. It may not be the best, but I really like my Fiskars and it performs well for me. This video clearly communicates that you hold tools to more than just performance/cost standard and has me thinking a bit differently about tools.
I have 2 Fiskars splittiing axes, both made in Finland, one 10 years old and one 5 years old. I have found them incredibly durable and much better than my traditional hickory shafted relic. Fiskars are lighter, so you can develop more velocity in the head (energy proportional to the square of velocity on impact). Much softer on the arms than hickory when working for long periods of time. And mine are still razor sharp with very little maintenance. I'd suggest checking the origin of the tool and avoiding the chinese variants. I should add that I also have a husqvarna splitter and some fibreglass shafted traditional mauls, too. They all get used, they all have their place, but in general I'm holding the fiskars.... which is especially effective on softer green wood, because it has less tendency to stick. Not sure how wrangler damaged the blade on that axe. After all, wood should be much softer than steel, from any country!
Razor sharp after that many years of use? Razor sharp, really? That statement is obviously an exaggeration and it took the credibility off anything you had to testify to because you're one of those people who adds flowers to their stories.
Exactly..because you should never have to sharpen a lawn mower blade after cutting grass, or sharpen a chain on a chainsaw after cutting wood.
@wranglerstar Objectivity: ob·jec·tiv·i·ty
ˌäbjekˈtivədē/
noun
the quality of being objective.
"the piece lacked any objectivity"
synonyms: impartiality, absence/lack of bias, absence/lack of prejudice, fairness, fair-mindedness.
Check out the Fiskars blade at 11 seconds and 18 seconds on your demo. You will notice that the blade is already chipped and rough before you ever start. Now tell me that all that damage is caused by your demo so I can laugh and ask you what you really know about the steel that makes up the axe. I don't even own a Fiskars but I seem to know a whole lot more than you do about it. You don't need to replace the handle because if it breaks Fiskars will replace the entire axe. (Lifetime Warranty) Next time you're going to make a head to head video, learn a little something about both tools so you can actually do the word objective/objectivity justice. Objectivity is based in factual unbiased observations and facts. Try it out, you might like it.
Steve Hollingworth What if he filmed the intro after he finished splitting the logs? This would mean that the chipping was due to the splitting. It is clear this video contains his own opinions, not every review must be entirely impartial.
callumbrownrc4 In that case, send back the axe, because that would mean that the metal in use is too fragile (not ductile enough) and therefore using is dangerous. The entire head can break apart. Could be an imitation.
I know there are people who think objective is superior to subjective (why?), and initially objective might intellectually appeal to some, in the real world I dont think Objective really exists agreed? 'Objective' is a little bit naive. Working with wood is a lifelong pleasure and therefore we should choose a tool that feels right and does the job well, not that satisfies some intellectual criteria. If you want to get as much work done as quickly as possible with as little joy as possible then the Fiskars appears to win in this review. Me? well I specifically want Wranglerstar's personal opinion whether anyone thinks its objective or not. I value his opinion more than a purely objective opinion (where will you get that any way? - dont be so naive dude). "Hickory feels better than synthetic" well surprise surprise to the objective community, a subjective comment like that is vastly more advanced. Try to scientifically or mathematically model how a tool feels to a particular human so you can create objective measures for a specific human subject- I bet you cant buddy!. And thats why this whole objective thing is no more than brain poopoo. If it does the job well and feels better then thats the right tool for the job, our body is telling us a whole lot more than science can. We aren't robots, we're humans. It IS satisfying to work with a beautiful tool that is hand crafted on more levels than just how the wood fibres cleave in response to the metal. If I feel happier using a hickory handle than a synthetic one then imho its superior to synthetic, clearly the synthetic fails on the holistic requirements of a good axe. If Im going to spend a lot of hours with that axe then just like marriage, make a decision on more levels than just 'objective'. Do you prefer a leather sofa or a plastic one? Do you wear cotton shirts or plastic shirts. The plastic shirt might have a lifetime warranty but seriously? Whatever man.
Fiskars steel isn't THAT bad. It is ground much thinner than the maul, is why it was damaged. MUCH less steel supporting the edge. Plus, mauls are meant to be blunt. So blunt it will literally not cut you if you rub in on your skin. This makes the log explode and split more than the wedge actually cutting the wood, and makes it completely unnecessary to reprofile or sharpen the tool. Which means it lasts longer.
Btw, a fiskars can be a "heritage tool". I have no doubts that mine will outlive me.
+Michael Smith Thank you. Glad someone finally said it. A dull edge splits better.
+Michael Smith the steel is bad, the back chips and splits easy if hit with a sledge.
+Arafingol - Having used both a traditional 8-lb maul and the Fiskars X27 side-by-side, I must respectfully disagree. The sharp Fiskars split rounds on the first strike where the maul required multiple swings. (Rounds were of the same diameter from the same tree).
+ashemoski OK, but ... how would the Fiskars split if its edge was dull?
+Arafingol - I don't know, and don't plan to find out. :-) It became quickly clear to me that the sharp edge is beneficial. The tool penetrates further and more easily by cutting into the wood rather than mashing into it. If you were to try it for yourself, you would see and understand almost immediately.
Rewatching after years, and I’m still glad I picked the fiskars… so light you can swing it all day. Vibration hurts when you miss, otherwise I can live with it. Gave away my 8lb maul… way too dangerous when you get tired at the end of the day. Safe, light and warrantied is my vote.
one thing to keep in mind - the real advantage of the fiskars comes into play when you have to split a whole load of wood in one go - try swinging it 400 or 500 times - the lighter weight (for the same splitting effect) causes less fatigue. That said i like the feel of wood handles too
Im a younger guy and i really love using my X27 , its has character and style to me . Makes me feel like a god damn superhero , so i think it all comes down to what you know and what you bond with.
Mule and plow was probably considered a "heritage tool", until the tractor came along. Nothing to do with splitting tools, but still, heritage shmeritage....
That's a bad comparison. You're comparing a tractor to a mule and plow. He's comparing an axe to an axe. It would be rather like comparing a wooden and steal plow to a plastic and steal plow.
Wood is recyclealbe, Plastic is not. So it's worse for the enviroment. You can repair the wooden axe yourself, but you can't repair the plastic one. The plastic one will have to be remade, whereas the wooden one has the potential to last several generations.
Yeah, you're right on the comparison, and I generally appreciate most of the the tools and methods demonstrated in this channel, but rather than try to bridge the gap between easier to use fiskars and the reliability of the traditional maul, he simply chose to be biased towards the one that gave him the "warm & fuzzies". He said he has a hard time putting into words, but i think the general idea is that the traditional, or "heritage" choice is pretty much a sentimental one. Nothing wrong with that either, and there are better reasons for using wood over fiberglass handles, but to dismiss any attempts to improve a tool based on wether or not it passes the "heritage" test is actually dismissive of our greatest heritage. Our ability and drive to innovate.
m0untainm0ney
I agree, that innovation is important. But i also think, that we are in a point in time where we need to innovate while simultaneously looking at sustainability. That's also a kind of innovation though, since you're just trying to improve another aspect of the product. The US is currently consuming so much or has so many people, that it is using about 3 times more resources than nature can renew. This can't be done forever, since it destroys natural resources bit by bit.
@@m0untainm0ney
Transaltion: You bought a Fiskars, and therefore it must be the best.
A little advice on wood splitting. Don't lead in so much. Hit on the front edge about 3/4 of the axe-head depth. It literally doubles the separating force by breaking the leading edge open . It opens the wood like a book. Really conserves energy on a long day of splitting. It is the difference between a one-two strike split and a 3-4 strike split.
Have had many axes over 30+ years. Putting following aspects into the balance a Fiskars (splitting-)axe comes in many use cases on top: quality steel, weight, durability and warranty.
I appreciate the fact you were objective with your results
Can you clear up the state of the Fiskars blade before you began your test? I cannot believe it looked like that after just a few logs since I've had mine for two years now splitting mostly ash logs and I have never had a chip. Many commenters seem to be under the impression that you started your test with a new axe but you stated that someone left it there. People seem to be ignoring that part and like usual just concentrating on what they want to believe.
Nice, objective review though. For homesteading type lifestyles I would definitely go for wooden handles though just for the replaceabilitly. That warranty is only good as long as you can use it.
Best to have both. If either tool breaks you can use the other till you get the broken one fixed or replaced.
I don't know why the Fiskars is called "hateful"; it's an inanimate object not capable of love or hate.
On the user side, I love my Fiskars, I hardly touch the old maul since I got my Fiskars. Would you use a 32" chainsaw to prune small branches?
+ShysterLawyer There's a bit of a running Fiskars joke on some of the old videos. Everyone likes something a bit different. MrsW
Was your X27 made in Finland or China? I have noticed that many of the Fiskars products sold in the USA are made in China. I bought my X27 from Amazon and it was made in Finland.
Ignorant people don't know the difference and will just say that they are all crap. I bought a Chinese made x7 and it was OK for a while but it started to get some play in it so I left it at home and grabbed my friends x7 instead. I noticed a difference in the feel of it firstly and then the chop. I also noticed the metal quality due to not having to give it a sharpen at the end of each day, which sucks while on a camping trip and just want to relax by the fire and not have to file. I bought the real deal and that was almost 2 years ago. I sharpen it at the end of each week long camp instead and it's perfect.
mars1952 I want to buy one, and after reading this I am not going to unless it was made in Finland, thanks!
Ended up buying a Finnish-made hatchet, better for my needs.
They are all from Finland. Even in Canada
I have been using the Fiskars X27 for 5 years averaging 12 chords of split wood yearly. No problems. Actually stays sharp well unless the head strikes the dirt/ground. Secret is strike along the edge of the round and not in the center (the heart is the softest part of the wood and absorbs energy). Example strike your round at 12 o'clock and 6 for fastest results with less effort. My humble opinion is that Fiskars is the "new school" better design. Great workout and fast results. Thank you for your nice video.
Yup, Fiskars X27 is the best splitting ax made. I thought about giving my splitting maul away, but I wouldn't want to condemn anyone else to using it.... Anyhow with the X27 I strike the edge and usually at least crack it first strike. If the round cracks, but doesn't split in 2 I hit in a different spot along the edge up to 90 degrees from the crack and almost always it will knock out a wedge or split the round in 3.
...A tip I would give is to get an old tire, cut away the sidewalls so you have just the band of tread. Pack your rounds in the tire and you can split several at once without having to readjust anything.
Just split a whole hichory tree with a fiskars, someone hid the regular maul. I agree with every thing you said about it. It is the second fiskars I have, the first one I cracked the handle abusing it. They sent me a new one free of charge and didn't even ask for the old one to be returned.
Great video, i do hope you stick with the fiskars and do a long term follow up to see if it grows on you and if it holds up better then you think it will.
I don't doubt it will hold up. I do doubt my body will hold up to the poor handle design.
wranglerstar I've hurt the 'webbing' (as you call it) with wooden axe handles too. To avoid the issue, I found you just need to 'power off' slightly earlier, just before the axe head has touched down. If you are still 'driving down' at the point of impact, you will most likely hurt your hands.
@@wranglerstar What a wimp!
I really like you're videos, that said I cannot stand the negative connotation you put towards the fiskars axe in this comparison, especially the "hateful" title.
It's better than a standard maul and your own video shows that clearly. I respect your preference for natural materials but when it comes down to it, given a choice between a composite handle superior splitter (you said it) like the fiskars or a heavy ass traditional one that you can reuse with a lot of effort I'll take the composite any day, especially with the 25 year warranty.
Heritage is a great concept and so is rebuilding a tool, but fiskars warranty gives you a brand new one. And a father could pass his fiskars warranty on to his son just as an axe with 6 new handles through 25 years.
Not to mention, a fiskars is so good, it gives you adrenaline as you split pieces one after another in one strike. It's too awesome to deny. It is a legit properly engineered tool to do a job.
Hes just wierdo, and I am kinda supprised that He has so many followers. Most of His videos just shows, that He is not an expert in anything what He is doing (My opinion). In this or that voting for president video, He kinda show his true nature behind him and his mind set.
Thats my fealing, and as subscribers show, many people see it differently.
Matt Thompson You have no grasp on the idea of character in tools. Would you really prefer to give your son an axe with millions like it? Or would you give him the axe you got from your father, who got it from his father before him? Tools are more that just tools, ironically, they are a rite od transcension to man-hood. You can't simply buy that.
Matt Thompson Now I'm not saying "old is always better" but just realize the sentimental value of such tools.
Another Fiskars fanboy. "Durrr, I bought a Fiskars so it must be d' best. Durrrr...."
If the handle were wood he probably would have preferred it. I've used both and synthetic materials are hard on the hands and I have to wear gloves or the blood vessels in my hands will literally rupture if I actually chop a sizeable amount of wood. It's just the way it transfers vibrations. It's much like a wooden bat vs an aluminum one. Wood makes for a better handle. I'm sure the fiskers is great compared to the trash carried by stores these days, but compared to old ones like the one my pa passed down to me fiskers is trash too.
I've debated the two to my fellow friends. I guess it's what you value. Is it a lifestyle or just a chore. Splitting wood is a lifestyle and your tools become an extension of you. Organic traditional splitting maul all the way.
I have a Fiskars X25. I like it so much I have purchased their X7 hatchet and have their their 8 lb maul on order. The X25 is comfortable in my hands (no vibration) I actually enjoy using it
I have a few good old American splitters and I bought a Fiskars 2 years ago. I love that splitter, my American ax is rusting up lol.
I also prefer a Traditional Splitting maul. I have both, but my Fisker's handle broke within a few weeks. The company send me a replacement, but I don't trust it like I do my Traditional Maul.
My maul(s) have had handles break, but a new handle can be added in a short amount of time. My older one (purchased in the 1970's, has had more handles than I can count. But I tend to buy cheaper handles (sometimes factory seconds), due the the fact that they are going to break. I can go to the flea Market and buy a handle for $5.00 where a good handle will cost upwards to $12.00. And if I order, I cannot pick for grain.
I have made handles my self, as taught by my Grandfather. But don't always have the time or the wood available.
In closing, I want to thank you for your videos. They are entertaining, and very educational. I have solved several problems here by watching one of your videos/
I love the Fiskars X27! I use mine for camping and backpacking so the quality of the steel is less important than the the light weight. Mine has needed very little maintenance over the last few seasons of use, and as you say overstrikes with the Fiskars won't damage it at all (or it hasn't so far). To me the X27 is the superior tool for my use. If I was splitting wood for a home stove, I dunno...
backpacking with the X27?. WOW.
I love my fiskars X27, it is the most capable splitting axe I have used to date....
Hitting a log directly in the center is the absolute worst place to hit. Hit on the leading edge followed by the far edge. Far better separation leverage.
yes !! Finally...try to hit it on the edge getting at piece of the bark!! I live in northern Michigan...Ash..Red/white oak...elm...maple...all of our hardest woods....very hard splitting
Another thing....you don't want your blade razor sharp!!! you want a broad strike..not a sharp strike..sharp just means it will stick in the wood...not separate the fibers/ grain...that's what you want...if not you will just sink the head in the log...then your just making more work
Rob who cares The bark? Not splitting bark, splitting wood.
Strike the round off center toward you, then off center farthest from you in the crack. This separates the fibers easier.
A splitting maul works by forcing apart the wood with its wedge shape as it penetrates. A sharp edge will penetrate deeper because less energy is expended to cut the wood fibers. A dull edge sticks less because it does not penetrate as deeply. If more force were used to penetrate a dull blade as deeply as a sharp blade, it would get stuck just as much.
You are correct, sort of. A smaller log, that you KNOW will split in one blow should be hit in the center. A large log that you are going to chop into 4 or more pieces would be easier to split by flaking off chunks from the edges. Seeing that most logs (at least where I live) are round, I don't know what you mean mean about "leading edge". My logs have a circular edge, one on the top and one on the bottom.
What a great review. He’d make a good vehicle reviewer. Straight up and down thoughts. I think he is saying what he thinks and not what gets payments.
Im 57, i must have split a million cords of wood ,lol. Im not a fan of a splitting maul. i have the same axe iv used for 35 years, handle broke 27 years ago and i replaced it with a long vinyl or plastic handle uses an epoxy resin to hold handle on, don`t use a sharp axe for splitting just falling. long handle and speed, also a trick is to give your axe a little sideways flick as it hits log cause far more separation.
When it come to tools I look at quality, durability, affectiveness and safety. Normally I prefer vintage tools, believing that much of our modern tools are lower in quality, but Fiskars axes are an exception. I started splitting wood at a young age and have broken handles and seen many axe heads get loose which is dangerous and lots of wasted time. Wooded handles are fine for occasional users or just for the fun of it and do videos, but for hard workers or for splitting hard wood which needs much more force I prefer Fiskars all the way.
so...shall we call it a split decision???
I see what you did there
Indeed we shall,
luketdrifter2100 Who wouldn't?
Yes, we are in agreement. Wish Fisker would make a heirloom splitting axe!
At 11 and 12 years old my brother and I each had the requirement every day (chores) throughout the summer to each split 120 pieces of wood. The two of us used the same type of wood handled splitting maul you showed here. On the family ranch in eagle point ore we heated our house with wood and a large pot belly stove…fast forward my first job was fighting fires and I have a great fondness and respect for “real tools” it is the thing that drew me to your channel. Fast forward way ahead. I am now 65 and I had the great honor of teaching my doctor son in law how to chop wood…he loved it, and so did I. My heritage tool was the same fiskers that you show here. I got to watch his face light up when he got the swing down and heard that first satisfying crack of a log.. we had a great time,and built some respect between the both of us…I love this about your channel. I see you acting in that capacity for your son, and you do that for me as well as I always learn something. Thanks for taking the time to make this video,.
Thanks for taking the time to make the compassion.
Yes, Fiskars is not a good tool because you cannot give it to your children as a heritage. Wise words. America stronk!
+Trekker88888 Yes i bet his children would be very pleased,
"thanks dad i have always wanted your old hiccory handle axe more than anything else, i can see all sweat and blood that you have spilled by splitting wood, so heart warming it's even aged beautifully"
Excellent editing between "heats" in the competition Cody!
Hmm. Fiskars bruk was founded in 1649, so it has quite a lot tradition. How about America and your old tools...
I have never seen or heard fiskars axe which composite handle would have been broken in use. Steel is modern forged and hardened steel, probably swedish origin. Shape of the head is scientifically studied and teflon coated for low friction.
I own several Fiskar tools (not only axes) and I never had any problem with any. I have x25 splitting axe and when I'm splitting I get no vibrations at all, I can work with this axe splitting all day and it splits better than any other axe or mauls I ever had. It seems to me, that you are slightly (or maybe alot) biased, because for some reason you don't like Fiskars. I used alot of those traditional mauls in the past, but to me the heavy head and wooden handle is just a romantic idea of ideal, but in comparison to modern tools doesn't work that good. But in the end it's about personal preference and there might be people like you who prefer traditional over modern tools and it's okay too.
Well it would help if you knew how to use the axe. At impact you should let loose of the axe since the point is that the axe should rotate at impact. If you grip it hard and work against the axe it will of course not work at all. It seems to me that the "vipukirves" need to come with more instructions for the end users. Here is a video of 1 who knows how to use it: ruclips.net/video/9jDR_2Zsr40/видео.html . It does not require more force.
Sven Johansson This isn't a 'vipukirves' though. Completely different product.
Hi Cody.
After watching your vid on the Fiskars axe I noticed one of them on a shelf at WalMart. I hadn't realized the handle was hollow nylon.
I've always used classic axes because that's what I started with. For splitting I've always liked the axe I got from my mother in law. It's a New England style with the large pall. My inlaws were from West Virginia. Don't know the weight but it's heavier than the Michigan cruisers that I find around home.
Not much old growth cut down around here. Mostly second growth or fence row scrubs. For anything with knots or twisted grain like scrub fence row trees I use wedges and a sledge.
The Fiskars axe has a short handle for a splitter. The New England has a longer handle. As a kid I learned to break my wrists to increase the head speed. I think a longer handle helps with that. I noticed your maul had a longer handle than the Fiskars. Do you think that makes a difference?
I agree with your review. I'd rather have the replaceable handle than the nylon or fiberglass. I've had the New England for 38 years now and still have the original handle. Holds a good edge too.
The only striking tools I've seen, that failed like the Fiskars in your review were Harbor Freight crap that I ran into on the job. Penny wise and pound foolish. Soft steel or cast neither is worth the trouble.
Theres nothing magical about the Fiskars. It's a stick with a sharp piece of metal on the end. What makes it work better than most is that Fiskars got the angle correct on the business end. Too wide and it lacks penetration too thin and it lacks separating force.
The weight of the head is perfectly matched to the angle.
About grip/ I have 4 different Fiskars axes and a few heritage models. Our oldest ones ive used for about 35 years. I am very happy with the Fiskars handles. Ive learned to press the grip a lot less and never hurt my hands anymore.
I inherited an old Axe which was made by my great great Granddad. It's only had 3 new handles and 2 new axe heads fitted to it since 1830. It's starting to look kinda modern though! My sister has a broom from my great great Grandma, its had several broom heads and handles through the years, these items must be worth a fortune!!!
I never had a problem with my fiskars.... I don’t have the splitting maul like that one ... but I do have the midsize chopping/felling axe... and I’ve routinely used it to split... and never had an edge issue... only small touch ups with a file to maintain sharpness... and ohh almost forgot .. did let a friend use it and they were chopping on the ground .. and hit a rock I think and I had to do some light die grinding action... other then that .... hitting only wood loll it’s been great
6:33 Fiskars is not a heritage tool??? Company which was founded in 1649, and has made axes ever since has not heritage? It may not be your heritage (tool) but they surely do have heritage. Also, there is a reason why Fiskars doesn´t produce axes with wooden handle anymore. That is called a development.
Fiskars has a great heritage but that axe is no heritage tool. It's an ugly disposable utilitarian affair, but there isn't anything wrong with that. It's a great axe
@@erieschl Disposable, yes, but only if it breaks after 25 year warranty has expired...
Classical physics says that the Fiskars should be the better AXE. It's lighter which means you should be able to swing it much faster than the fat and heavy maul. Most of you can probably remember grade 12 physics and the kinetic energy equation says: KE = 0.5*M*V^2. So since the velocity is squared, swinging it faster will impart MUCH greater energy into the log than increasing the weight. I noticed that in this video Wranglerstar was swinging both axes at the same speed which means that the maul would clearly win - it's heavier. If he used the Fiskars as it was intended, I think it would give the maul a run for it's money.
I've had an X27 for three years that I use almost every day. It stays sharper than any maul I've had and I've had over a dozen. Granted I would sharpen it every day anyway because I love having sharp tools, but I don't hit rocks very often so I'm probably a bad judge of how well they stay sharp. I haven't experienced the handle shock that you described. I can use my maul all day before it starts to hurt my hands and it seems to absorb the shock pretty well when I hit a bad knot. I agree it's not something I would pass down, but when kids inherit tools, nine times out of ten they will let them rust anyway.
"I agree it's not something I would pass down, but when kids inherit tools, nine times out of ten they will let them rust anyway."
This is the truth in a nutshell. It might hurt some of these homesteaders/preppers/whatevers trending this week, feelings but its the truth. Its a romantic notion but lets be real for a second. Do they really think every old tool is a 'heritage' that their son or daughter is going to cherish? Simply put NO. Some things maybe, but most things no. Use what tool works for you...
(20 bucks says his son will be using a Fiskars and that old 'heritage tool' will stay in the shed because hes tired of the finicky stuff that goes into using old tools and just wants to get the job done... That is if his son is into this stuff when hes older, he could be like most kids and rebel against his parents and never be interested in 'homesteading' the rest of his life)
My grandfather has oneof the first fiskars axes and it needs to be replced because the blade is so wornout. The handle held up perfectly.
Fiskars est. in Finland in 1649, and it is one of the oldest buissnises in the world. How is Fiskars not a heritage tool with such long history?
but the friskar really is a better choice though - learn to use it and stop whining about the plastic the friskars has a lifetime warranty also - lol i love the natural feel of the oil based handle of my friskars
Since you like making axe handles for axes I would suggest that you put that maul through a destruction test along with the x27... and see how many hickory handles you have to make before you break the handle on the Fiskars. Here is a video to help you design the destruction test.
Fiskars X15 Distruction Test Pt 1