I think you took a wrong turn at 6:22 "the blue line is not there anymore". With that half of the LCD disconnected, it defaults to letting the backlight through. Which means that red, green and blue LCDs are all transparent. So it's not that the "blue line" isn't there, it's that the pixels of the blue line have been joined by pixels of red and green, so it now shows white. So the symptom is still there, you just can't see it. It also teaches us that the type of fault is that the blue line region is behaving as though disconnected, even when plugged in to the T-conn board. That means the conductor from the chips on the T-con board to the LCD panel is broken somewhere (or a chip output on the T-con is bad). That doesn't narrow it down much, but it's so frequently the flex cable (or a chip-on-flex, "COF") that's broken that it would be there to look and poke around.
I had the same thought as you, when he disconnected the half of the screen he should have realised that disconnecting it wouldn't help much in diagnosing the problem. Since the power supply was clearly working like it should have, and the tv displayed a whole image (at 0:33 it is clear that the image signal is there, becasue the white text "overwrites" the blue line, so it would display an image but only the brightness of blue color is shifted in that column of pixels for some reason), so replacing the main board was quite the unnecessary thing to do. I would have poked around the ribbon cables trying to find some speck of dust somewhere, or I would have tried tightening all the bolts (it's not common to fix something by thightening the bolts, but it's free if that fixes it, so worth a shot), or put pressure on the thin ribbon cables that are soldered (maybe even try to persuade the lcd to work with light tapping on the screen itself near the line) and if everything failed then I would have also decided on buying a tcon board. But i would have probably given up after replacing the tcon board and trying the things I've said, because it's probably something unfixable on the lcd or one or two of the traces on the thin soldered on ribbon cables are damaged and that's quite hard to fix. The one thing he did and I probably would have forgotten to try it is switching the two ribbon cables from the tcon, if you are lucky that's one easy fix.
Ive "repaired" a microsoldered ribbon cable on a SONY tv that responds well to pressure by inserting a rubber shim in between the case and ribbon so that constant pressure is applied once the casing it replaced.
This was going to be my suggestion too. I did it from an old Sony from 2010 era. We used q-tips to keep the pressure on it and it still works today but the issue was more severe than a single line. This looks like a bad trace or maybe a shorted diode on the display board since the “tcon” board was replaced without success. Seems to be a zero or open voltage issue. I have an ONN 70 with the same issue that I was told to just trash from the factory due to this.
Tried this and several other recommendations without success as yet. I only have ONE green vertical line, it is clearly dots running up and down. In that line there is one missing dot. Might that tell me anything? Like maybe it is the actual screen rather than anything else? Would love an answer from anyone with any thoughts on this. Thanks!
@@peterwaldhauser1907 I tried everything mentioned on several sites. In the end it was the panel. No fix other than replacing the panel or TV. Too bad cause that set has a really great picture. I have a 65 & a 50. Probably gonna get a 75 to replace it. Sadly, most of this stuff nowadays seems to be junk, even Sony. Be sure to take the back off & run your finger or something along the edge of the panel firmly. That one works sometimes. Good luck!
@@CrimeDoesNotPay no, in my case it was the display.Gave it to a friend. Still had a 65 & 55, so no major worry. I used it to sleep by. As it turns out, most all tvs have screen off or picture off (still playing audio of course). Probably a 75 or 80 next.
So when you disconnected each side of the TCin board and the side that had the blue line was white, of course there was no blue line. The main board is aka the Logic board, and, from what I understand, simply takes commands, converts signals, processes pictures, all the programming and control and such. The power switch plugs into that board and the AC plugs into the power supply board. The power switch being pressed complete a circuit momentarily and sends a signal to the logic board and then to the power supply to initiate power up, where the power supply then sends power to the processors in the Logic board and then to all of the lighting, and T Conn board so it can do it’s conversions of commands into the correct combination of RGB to produce the picture being sent by the Logic board from your input source. There are more chips on the PCBs adjacent to the panels so that means more processing. So I’m figuring the screen is divided in half, each side getting 64 connections via that notorious ribbon connector, one per side. I don’t know what kind if signal that is sending, but I suspect that it just continues to break down until each pixel gets its own signal, which must be the end result such that we can get such resolution. I’m sure I’m oversimplifying a little bit. But the dude tried the ribbon connectors a couple of times it seemed, and then decided the TCon was bad. Then, the one he gets is from another fix it dude, who declared a broken screen but that the TConn was still good. You know how when you short an extension cord, the breaker trips in the breaker box, potentially a longs ways away? Have some people considered that these things have progressively gotten lighter and of less robust integrity, but that they really are better pieces individually. The other night while preparing super glue to fix a broken connector, the bottle cap seemed locked but wasn’t and the bottle flipped over and over to the ground leaving streaks of super glue on a 55” screen I had almost fixed! I tried everything. Rubbing alcohol, fingernail, you name it, even 1000 grit sandpaper, but in a tiny spot. Well the screen was either toast already or if I couldn’t get the super glue off, it was still toast, so I carefully added progressively more and more pressure in circular pattern with rubbing alcohol on a microfiber rag, and got 80% of the glue off. Finger nail did nothing, sandpaper left scratches were I swear it never touch. Whoops. Ultimately, I got it down to barely noticeable, but what’s noteworthy here is not my screw up, but how much pressure I could apply without ruining the screen. I couldn’t believe it honestly. I mean rubbing about as hard as you would on a bathroom mirror to get a stubborn water spot out, and it always recovered. I did find a crack in that screen, but learned a lot since I had two identical TVs, one with broken screen, one wouldn’t stay with a pic showing. It would seem to turn off, but in reality it was just the pic, and the Tv and backlight were always on. I swapped parts with the other TV starting at the power supply, and nothing changed, even after changing the TCon board. That is until I tried to clean the two ribbon connectors with alcohol and carefully reseat them over and over, and over again, because I knew for a fact that the screen I was working on was 100%, just wouldn’t turn on, and in the process I would get no backlight, one side perfect, one side dark, one side with horizontal lines, and on and on, until I got it to only have vertical lines near the right side. Still convinced it’s in the ribbon connector. Maybe a connection in the middle if the ribbon is “compromised” and if it’s bent just right it works, and maybe the wind blows the wrong way and it doesn’t. So I’ll test continuity and then try the other ones, I’ve got four. Dude here made too many jumps in deduction and loose conclusions. The new TConn board may have issues. It could be maybe that when a screen takes physical damage, like a screen breaking impact, connectors touch that are not supposed to, and especially if time elapses, other components could be burned, shorted, open circuit from a burned connection, etc. So just because the screen is broken you can’t assume every other component is good. Especially in this world of microprocessors. They have safety measures and self preservation too, but not on everything. If you were to shirt two wires in your car before the fuses, where say power to the fan hits power for the computer, pre fuse, or post fuse, depending on voltage differences, amperage differences, or if hot hits ground in the wrong place for too long, which is the case in flooding damage. The systems never work the same again. Who knows what could be damaged by screens breaking. I know that with speakers, as I work pro audio for a living, if the driver gets physically damaged and there is a short on the voice coil or anywhere along the path, the amp will see that short, and the nicer amps will keep trying to perform, as “the show must go on”, but sooner or later, the amp will eat itself. Generally there are other symptoms. But you’d be surprised how oblivious people are to things which are telling them there is something wrong and they just blow it off as “one of those things”. What things? Those things my ass.
I got the same problem on new LG C1 OLED....the line appears a week after i bought it but it was real thin but now i got another line in the left side of the screen and comes and go some times is not there for an HR or 2....i bought used so no warranty I'm just going to keep it for gaming when I'm playing my games i can't bearly see the lines....thanks for ur video
Great call on the heat gun, I should have done that before I put it all back together:) Maybe a future project, I think it will be a backup Man Cave TV for future project, the parts inside aren't worth very much:)
My question is why did you go straight to getting a t-con board instead of just the ribbon. My suspicion would be a ribbon I would get a new ribbon then the t-con board go low then high
Had similar problem, but my line was black from the left side. I discovered some water damage under that ribbon cable soldered to the LED screen, I move it a little bit, and that line becomes glitchy with some random RGB colors, then it returns back black. I don't know how to solve this without any specific tool. Any way, that TV is from 2010, I tried.
I'd say it's still that display connector that's soldered on. Since we've determined the tv is toast because the most expensive part of the tv (the display/screen) cannot be salvaged here's what I would try. I'd get a hair dryer or heat gun and heat up that panel connection to maybe reflow the solder within the connection. If that doesn't work, I'd heat up the connection again and pull it off to see if I could re-solder it correctly. Again...we've already written it off. Even if you mess it up beyond repair, who cares? LOL
Thank you for this video. It was super helpful. I dismantled my own 55" 4k LCD watching along.... came to the same conclusion in the end unfortunately but thank you so much!
one of the few people who tells us the truth . the majority of other people on youtube claims they were able to fix vertical lines , but I think it was a stroke of luck
damn.i was prayin this was a successful fix but here i learned a lil terminology in the parts department.i will b subbing n checkin out more of ur vids this was hella exciting.thx for the experience n part selling knowledge buddy🤘
I have the same line, but green and near the end of the right side, the Samsung TV was very expensive and I have the damn line after 1 year and it's probably the same defect, screen, I disassembled a 65 inch TV top model from 2021 for nothing... tried cleaning all the t-con cables.
Thanks for the idea to bust it down for parts! Idk why I haven’t thought of that as I’ve been building PCs since 2007 and always sell parts when I upgrade. I only thought of selling the whole unit locally as is. Guess I was just so upset at the whole situation. I bought an lg cx oled and got 21 months of light usage out of it. Panel had 2000 hours on it. Went to bed with tv working, woke up 4 hours later to a thin yellow line down the whole panel. Lg wouldn’t help even tho it’s a defect. I guess I get it, but I’ve also heard many people on Reddit with much older oleds that got courtesy panel replacements so I figured I’d try. So I sucked it up and bought an lg c2. Paid $159 for a 4 year extended warranty. Something I never buy. If only I had bought the 3 year for $119 I could have saved myself a lot of money and heartache. Oh well lesson learned.
@@ryanmccarthy7281 hard to track down when i had to fix this i end up just re doing all the tcon cables i figer it going fail in other place at some point so might well just do it now then wait for another cable to fail
If it were the cable, the problem would have drifted to the other side when he swapped cables. It might be the connectors, which would have disappeared when he swapped T-Con boards, which leaves the connectors and cables in the display. Despite his claims, these CAN be repaired.
@@ManifoldSky it can be repair but it not a esy repair on that from a rma the cable at 4:41 is consider a tcon issue and will end in a full refund i have a few tv with this issue might try repair thim but it will fail again
@@thesmashtvnetwork Microsoldering is easy. The TV was found in the garbage and had already been returned. While one might be able to get a refund, it would be illegal and unethical and also irrelevant to the issue in this video. If the cable join is the issue, and you fix it and it fails again, you soldered it wrong.
Not very ethical but the best way to "fix" it is buy the same model, swap the backs where the serial number is, and then return the bad scree n one for a refund. Not ethical but they can fix it for pennies on the dollar. I also watch the diving videos, and you find more tvs than anyone ever. I did the reseating on my daughters LED 55 Vizio I found diving as well and it actually works, but for a different problem (faded lights on one side).
I need help with a tv we have a 58" jvc tv with flickering horizontal lines at the bottom of the screen and sometimes there's horizontal lines that go 3/4 of the screen from the bottom can someone tell me what the hell is wrong with it. I've done a factory reset on it, changed all the HDMI cables and still problem exists
hi guys so same with my tcl i have 3 years now well it got this blue line so im happy see this video i learn lots i gues buy a new tv haha good day Go bless
Two corrections, one minor, one major: first, just because it had soldered ends during mean it’s not a “cable”. Second, just because it is micro soldered doesn’t mean it can’t be repaired. Microsoldering, while a bit more involved than macrosoldering, I’d still trivially easy. As is testing that cable, using a continuity tester/ohmmeter.
Okay, I am lost. If I found this, i'd just watch it like it is, or sale it to somebody for $25 or $30. In fact, I have a TV with a line like that, and I've been watching it for years.
No but it was funny. When I first watched the video I knew it was the panel. It was funny watching them buy all those parts for nothing and thinking he can sell them on eBay. The problem is with these TVs is that there's a lot of panels that go out and people sell the rest of the parts on ebay. There's a shortage of panels and plenty of power supplies, t-con & main boards. My Samsung 4K 32-in M7 monitor has a black vertical bar about two and a half inches wide, with a quarter inch wide white line, almost in the center of it. It's about the same width as the tab and in the same location. It's almost new, so no dust or dirt and I'm wondering if it's the main board or the screen. There is no t-con board in it. I watched another video where they said remove one of the ribbon cables next to the black line and see what it does. The screen was completely black when I did. I didn't try the other one, I wanted to learn a little more first. I cleaned the connection and put it back together and have the same problem. How do you know if it's the main board or the screen? I can buy another main board for a hundred bucks. But most likely it's the screen. So I bought another broken TV on eBay where the guy said it won't power on and he said the screen looks okay. But who knows sometimes you buy stuff on eBay and it has a bad everything as people repair TVs and then put all the broken parts in a broken TV to sell it on ebay. I literally bought TVs that had bad main boards, bad power supplies and a bad screen all at the same time. Then when you buy a part on eBay you not sure if it works.
Great video. There is a FIX for this problem... but it's not an 'Easy Fix'.! First of all... NONE of these type of problems would happen if they hadn't banned using LEAD in solder.! That's the MAIN problem. No lead in solder = very weak connections. Solving it requires MICRO soldering. Very difficult to do if you don't have the kit to do it. But it is possible.
First, lead in solder is a HUGE environmental issue. It was banned for a reason. Second, bad folder connection Helen so there time, regardless of whether or not there is lead in the solder. Making such a blanket statement is useless. Third, microsoldering, rule a bit more involved than macrosoldering, is still trivial.
Love when someone do a video and have the same problems that we normal mortals encounter.Kudos to your troubleshooting skills.
I think you took a wrong turn at 6:22 "the blue line is not there anymore". With that half of the LCD disconnected, it defaults to letting the backlight through. Which means that red, green and blue LCDs are all transparent. So it's not that the "blue line" isn't there, it's that the pixels of the blue line have been joined by pixels of red and green, so it now shows white. So the symptom is still there, you just can't see it. It also teaches us that the type of fault is that the blue line region is behaving as though disconnected, even when plugged in to the T-conn board. That means the conductor from the chips on the T-con board to the LCD panel is broken somewhere (or a chip output on the T-con is bad). That doesn't narrow it down much, but it's so frequently the flex cable (or a chip-on-flex, "COF") that's broken that it would be there to look and poke around.
I had the same thought as you, when he disconnected the half of the screen he should have realised that disconnecting it wouldn't help much in diagnosing the problem. Since the power supply was clearly working like it should have, and the tv displayed a whole image (at 0:33 it is clear that the image signal is there, becasue the white text "overwrites" the blue line, so it would display an image but only the brightness of blue color is shifted in that column of pixels for some reason), so replacing the main board was quite the unnecessary thing to do. I would have poked around the ribbon cables trying to find some speck of dust somewhere, or I would have tried tightening all the bolts (it's not common to fix something by thightening the bolts, but it's free if that fixes it, so worth a shot), or put pressure on the thin ribbon cables that are soldered (maybe even try to persuade the lcd to work with light tapping on the screen itself near the line) and if everything failed then I would have also decided on buying a tcon board. But i would have probably given up after replacing the tcon board and trying the things I've said, because it's probably something unfixable on the lcd or one or two of the traces on the thin soldered on ribbon cables are damaged and that's quite hard to fix. The one thing he did and I probably would have forgotten to try it is switching the two ribbon cables from the tcon, if you are lucky that's one easy fix.
So for this extra long video you were sure giving a lot of wrong information for people trying to DIY repair on their tv.
I have similar lines on my 55” Vizio tv, sucks to see it might be the display. Great instructional video on parts and explanations. Thumbs up!
Ive "repaired" a microsoldered ribbon cable on a SONY tv that responds well to pressure by inserting a rubber shim in between the case and ribbon so that constant pressure is applied once the casing it replaced.
This was going to be my suggestion too. I did it from an old Sony from 2010 era. We used q-tips to keep the pressure on it and it still works today but the issue was more severe than a single line. This looks like a bad trace or maybe a shorted diode on the display board since the “tcon” board was replaced without success. Seems to be a zero or open voltage issue. I have an ONN 70 with the same issue that I was told to just trash from the factory due to this.
Tried this and several other recommendations without success as yet. I only have ONE green vertical line, it is clearly dots running up and down. In that line there is one missing dot. Might that tell me anything? Like maybe it is the actual screen rather than anything else? Would love an answer from anyone with any thoughts on this. Thanks!
@@peterwaldhauser1907 I tried everything mentioned on several sites. In the end it was the panel. No fix other than replacing the panel or TV. Too bad cause that set has a really great picture. I have a 65 & a 50. Probably gonna get a 75 to replace it. Sadly, most of this stuff nowadays seems to be junk, even Sony. Be sure to take the back off & run your finger or something along the edge of the panel firmly. That one works sometimes. Good luck!
Same for me. Did you ever find a fix?
@@CrimeDoesNotPay no, in my case it was the display.Gave it to a friend. Still had a 65 & 55, so no major worry. I used it to sleep by. As it turns out, most all tvs have screen off or picture off (still playing audio of course). Probably a 75 or 80 next.
Jesus Christ, this video could have been cut down to 5 mins max...
So when you disconnected each side of the TCin board and the side that had the blue line was white, of course there was no blue line. The main board is aka the Logic board, and, from what I understand, simply takes commands, converts signals, processes pictures, all the programming and control and such. The power switch plugs into that board and the AC plugs into the power supply board. The power switch being pressed complete a circuit momentarily and sends a signal to the logic board and then to the power supply to initiate power up, where the power supply then sends power to the processors in the Logic board and then to all of the lighting, and T Conn board so it can do it’s conversions of commands into the correct combination of RGB to produce the picture being sent by the Logic board from your input source. There are more chips on the PCBs adjacent to the panels so that means more processing. So I’m figuring the screen is divided in half, each side getting 64 connections via that notorious ribbon connector, one per side. I don’t know what kind if signal that is sending, but I suspect that it just continues to break down until each pixel gets its own signal, which must be the end result such that we can get such resolution. I’m sure I’m oversimplifying a little bit. But the dude tried the ribbon connectors a couple of times it seemed, and then decided the TCon was bad. Then, the one he gets is from another fix it dude, who declared a broken screen but that the TConn was still good. You know how when you short an extension cord, the breaker trips in the breaker box, potentially a longs ways away? Have some people considered that these things have progressively gotten lighter and of less robust integrity, but that they really are better pieces individually. The other night while preparing super glue to fix a broken connector, the bottle cap seemed locked but wasn’t and the bottle flipped over and over to the ground leaving streaks of super glue on a 55” screen I had almost fixed! I tried everything. Rubbing alcohol, fingernail, you name it, even 1000 grit sandpaper, but in a tiny spot. Well the screen was either toast already or if I couldn’t get the super glue off, it was still toast, so I carefully added progressively more and more pressure in circular pattern with rubbing alcohol on a microfiber rag, and got 80% of the glue off. Finger nail did nothing, sandpaper left scratches were I swear it never touch. Whoops. Ultimately, I got it down to barely noticeable, but what’s noteworthy here is not my screw up, but how much pressure I could apply without ruining the screen. I couldn’t believe it honestly. I mean rubbing about as hard as you would on a bathroom mirror to get a stubborn water spot out, and it always recovered. I did find a crack in that screen, but learned a lot since I had two identical TVs, one with broken screen, one wouldn’t stay with a pic showing. It would seem to turn off, but in reality it was just the pic, and the Tv and backlight were always on. I swapped parts with the other TV starting at the power supply, and nothing changed, even after changing the TCon board. That is until I tried to clean the two ribbon connectors with alcohol and carefully reseat them over and over, and over again, because I knew for a fact that the screen I was working on was 100%, just wouldn’t turn on, and in the process I would get no backlight, one side perfect, one side dark, one side with horizontal lines, and on and on, until I got it to only have vertical lines near the right side. Still convinced it’s in the ribbon connector. Maybe a connection in the middle if the ribbon is “compromised” and if it’s bent just right it works, and maybe the wind blows the wrong way and it doesn’t. So I’ll test continuity and then try the other ones, I’ve got four. Dude here made too many jumps in deduction and loose conclusions. The new TConn board may have issues. It could be maybe that when a screen takes physical damage, like a screen breaking impact, connectors touch that are not supposed to, and especially if time elapses, other components could be burned, shorted, open circuit from a burned connection, etc. So just because the screen is broken you can’t assume every other component is good. Especially in this world of microprocessors. They have safety measures and self preservation too, but not on everything. If you were to shirt two wires in your car before the fuses, where say power to the fan hits power for the computer, pre fuse, or post fuse, depending on voltage differences, amperage differences, or if hot hits ground in the wrong place for too long, which is the case in flooding damage. The systems never work the same again. Who knows what could be damaged by screens breaking. I know that with speakers, as I work pro audio for a living, if the driver gets physically damaged and there is a short on the voice coil or anywhere along the path, the amp will see that short, and the nicer amps will keep trying to perform, as “the show must go on”, but sooner or later, the amp will eat itself. Generally there are other symptoms. But you’d be surprised how oblivious people are to things which are telling them there is something wrong and they just blow it off as “one of those things”.
What things? Those things my ass.
I just need a quick fix and I see this....
I got the same problem on new LG C1 OLED....the line appears a week after i bought it but it was real thin but now i got another line in the left side of the screen and comes and go some times is not there for an HR or 2....i bought used so no warranty I'm just going to keep it for gaming when I'm playing my games i can't bearly see the lines....thanks for ur video
After watching this, I decided to hit my tv with my hand just to see… well it worked! The line went away 😆
PS...also try WD 40 electronics cleaner and if that doesnt clear it try a heating gun on the solder to reseat the solder. Might work.
Great call on the heat gun, I should have done that before I put it all back together:) Maybe a future project, I think it will be a backup Man Cave TV for future project, the parts inside aren't worth very much:)
That is the way we fix these problem in my country, Vietnam. We just get the board and put soldering on all the joints, may be lucky.
Press the flex ribbon cable at panel and see what happens.
My question is why did you go straight to getting a t-con board instead of just the ribbon. My suspicion would be a ribbon I would get a new ribbon then the t-con board go low then high
Because he checked the ribbon cable already.
I believe he said he switched the bad side ribbon with the good side ribbon and it still had the line.
Had similar problem, but my line was black from the left side. I discovered some water damage under that ribbon cable soldered to the LED screen, I move it a little bit, and that line becomes glitchy with some random RGB colors, then it returns back black. I don't know how to solve this without any specific tool. Any way, that TV is from 2010, I tried.
try pour alcohol to remove the water
if water can seep in alcohol can too
I'd say it's still that display connector that's soldered on. Since we've determined the tv is toast because the most expensive part of the tv (the display/screen) cannot be salvaged here's what I would try. I'd get a hair dryer or heat gun and heat up that panel connection to maybe reflow the solder within the connection. If that doesn't work, I'd heat up the connection again and pull it off to see if I could re-solder it correctly. Again...we've already written it off. Even if you mess it up beyond repair, who cares? LOL
Thank you for this video. It was super helpful. I dismantled my own 55" 4k LCD watching along.... came to the same conclusion in the end unfortunately but thank you so much!
one of the few people who tells us the truth . the majority of other people on youtube claims they were able to fix vertical lines , but I think it was a stroke of luck
damn.i was prayin this was a successful fix but here i learned a lil terminology in the parts department.i will b subbing n checkin out more of ur vids this was hella exciting.thx for the experience n part selling knowledge buddy🤘
It's a synchronization issue in the panel itself try blocking some pins the ribbon cable on the side the line is on using scotch tape
Idk what is wrong with mine but when I got a little static shock a pink line started to appear
i watched this video and it wnt away thankyou magic tv man
Great TV for a blind man
You can try a piece of Scotch tape on the edge connector to cut the voltage off on the one line...
it is the COF issue (loose solder) .
I have the line if you leave it on for 5 mins it goes away
I have the same line, but green and near the end of the right side, the Samsung TV was very expensive and I have the damn line after 1 year and it's probably the same defect, screen, I disassembled a 65 inch TV top model from 2021 for nothing... tried cleaning all the t-con cables.
Thanks for the idea to bust it down for parts! Idk why I haven’t thought of that as I’ve been building PCs since 2007 and always sell parts when I upgrade. I only thought of selling the whole unit locally as is. Guess I was just so upset at the whole situation. I bought an lg cx oled and got 21 months of light usage out of it. Panel had 2000 hours on it. Went to bed with tv working, woke up 4 hours later to a thin yellow line down the whole panel. Lg wouldn’t help even tho it’s a defect. I guess I get it, but I’ve also heard many people on Reddit with much older oleds that got courtesy panel replacements so I figured I’d try. So I sucked it up and bought an lg c2. Paid $159 for a 4 year extended warranty. Something I never buy. If only I had bought the 3 year for $119 I could have saved myself a lot of money and heartache. Oh well lesson learned.
Ty
this is a norm issue on cheap tv it a bad joint in the tcon cable
Which tcon cable?
@@ryanmccarthy7281 hard to track down when i had to fix this i end up just re doing all the tcon cables i figer it going fail in other place at some point so might well just do it now then wait for another cable to fail
If it were the cable, the problem would have drifted to the other side when he swapped cables. It might be the connectors, which would have disappeared when he swapped T-Con boards, which leaves the connectors and cables in the display. Despite his claims, these CAN be repaired.
@@ManifoldSky it can be repair but it not a esy repair on that from a rma the cable at 4:41 is consider a tcon issue and will end in a full refund i have a few tv with this issue might try repair thim but it will fail again
@@thesmashtvnetwork Microsoldering is easy.
The TV was found in the garbage and had already been returned. While one might be able to get a refund, it would be illegal and unethical and also irrelevant to the issue in this video.
If the cable join is the issue, and you fix it and it fails again, you soldered it wrong.
Saved my tv, I want to give you a digital high five 🤚
Not very ethical but the best way to "fix" it is buy the same model, swap the backs where the serial number is, and then return the bad scree n one for a refund. Not ethical but they can fix it for pennies on the dollar. I also watch the diving videos, and you find more tvs than anyone ever. I did the reseating on my daughters LED 55 Vizio I found diving as well and it actually works, but for a different problem (faded lights on one side).
You think just like I do, I would and have done the same thing lol
Wait does this actually work... cause i may try this
😈
Ive done this... A and O in uk give money back and swap with no real hassle...
That’s if it’s a newer tv that is still made.
I need help with a tv we have a 58" jvc tv with flickering horizontal lines at the bottom of the screen and sometimes there's horizontal lines that go 3/4 of the screen from the bottom can someone tell me what the hell is wrong with it. I've done a factory reset on it, changed all the HDMI cables and still problem exists
hi guys so same with my tcl i have 3 years now well it got this blue line so im happy see this video i learn lots i gues buy a new tv haha good day Go bless
Hey i need help i hit it with a pepsi bottle and like a little of it is black what do i do (dont worry about the picture
You didn’t talk about how dangerous how dangerous what you were doing was , was it, was all that exposed electronics live?
I just rubbed on the blue line and it dissapeared. Try it 👍
I have that but 3 white vertical lines
i dont mind a small line like that if its free.....i can use it as security cam monitor....or for youtubing :D
Me here....trying to fix a free TV as a second monitor for youtubing with a dead line🤣
After connecting and dis connecting the hdmi cable i got pixel lines on my Samsung tv it hella sucks
my vizio have lines but they pop up randomly
thank you so much for the great explanation
I got 6 blue lines and 2 red?
Two corrections, one minor, one major: first, just because it had soldered ends during mean it’s not a “cable”. Second, just because it is micro soldered doesn’t mean it can’t be repaired. Microsoldering, while a bit more involved than macrosoldering, I’d still trivially easy. As is testing that cable, using a continuity tester/ohmmeter.
Okay, I am lost. If I found this, i'd just watch it like it is, or sale it to somebody for $25 or $30. In fact, I have a TV with a line like that, and I've been watching it for years.
A lot of wrong information here and all you did is throw replacement parts at it. Nothing worth watching here.
No but it was funny. When I first watched the video I knew it was the panel. It was funny watching them buy all those parts for nothing and thinking he can sell them on eBay. The problem is with these TVs is that there's a lot of panels that go out and people sell the rest of the parts on ebay. There's a shortage of panels and plenty of power supplies, t-con & main boards. My Samsung 4K 32-in M7 monitor has a black vertical bar about two and a half inches wide, with a quarter inch wide white line, almost in the center of it. It's about the same width as the tab and in the same location. It's almost new, so no dust or dirt and I'm wondering if it's the main board or the screen. There is no t-con board in it. I watched another video where they said remove one of the ribbon cables next to the black line and see what it does. The screen was completely black when I did. I didn't try the other one, I wanted to learn a little more first. I cleaned the connection and put it back together and have the same problem. How do you know if it's the main board or the screen? I can buy another main board for a hundred bucks. But most likely it's the screen. So I bought another broken TV on eBay where the guy said it won't power on and he said the screen looks okay. But who knows sometimes you buy stuff on eBay and it has a bad everything as people repair TVs and then put all the broken parts in a broken TV to sell it on ebay. I literally bought TVs that had bad main boards, bad power supplies and a bad screen all at the same time. Then when you buy a part on eBay you not sure if it works.
Great video. There is a FIX for this problem... but it's not an 'Easy Fix'.!
First of all... NONE of these type of problems would happen if they hadn't banned using LEAD in solder.!
That's the MAIN problem. No lead in solder = very weak connections.
Solving it requires MICRO soldering. Very difficult to do if you don't have the kit to do it. But it is possible.
First, lead in solder is a HUGE environmental issue. It was banned for a reason. Second, bad folder connection Helen so there time, regardless of whether or not there is lead in the solder. Making such a blanket statement is useless.
Third, microsoldering, rule a bit more involved than macrosoldering, is still trivial.
This Is not soldered, cof its joined with AFC tape
Lol I watched the whole video just to find out that your "solution" is not a fix. Thanks a lot.
All you had to do was hit it at the bottom where the line was works every time
Hello Chris
Hello Jeanetta:) I hope your having the best day:)
I have the same thing happening to my Samsung 4K tv what can I do.
I let my ms friends use my room and I come back and there's a blue line
Theres a app on Google play that takes lines of phones and tablets im sure it would work with that tv id love that id fix it i wouldent stop
Useful
so its display
It is very doubtful it is the display. It is almost 100% the ribbon cable, which CAN be fixed, despite the claim it can’t be.
I have a green, and a red line, and a black screen otherwise. Dead on arrival. Seller wants half the cost of the TV to return it.
Nice try Buddy
Thanks, did everything I could:)
If you have knowlege in blocking CKVs using taping method. Try it maybe it can solved the problem Buddy.
13 minutes to tell us you can't do it.
What if half of its black
Probably the t-con board or maybe a ribbon cable.
@@TipsNNTricks what if I just straight up punched it
@Alexander Dunlop guess I got a weak ass tv then he dont want the smoke
Anyone believes here that he found it in bin ؟
This video could have been two minutes.
I'll send you my address, send it to me!
Too much talk. No fix. Waste of time
what if the line is green