If you're doing this on a Sonic, I recommend getting an E10 wrench (rather than socket) for the bottom bolt of the heat shield - the bay is more cramped and there's a hose almost directly in front of the bolt.
Thank you so much for this video 🙏 I was planning on fixing all my leaks the pan is one of them . I have a 2013 Sonic RS with only 52k original miles and it's starting to leak around the pan and crank Although before watching your video I bought the gasket for the oil pan I did not know it was sealed on with sealant from GM . I'm going to try the oil pan gasket only thing I can add is my car is a California car and the catalytic converter is twice the size of the one on your car so the part # on the clamp and ring gasket on the cat might be different . I played around with Catless Downpipes and actually have a non Ca, Cat that I installed it was like bolting on 20 HP since the Ca, Converter was so much bigger
My oil pan looks just like the one from the beginning of the video (hence why I'm watching - car is leaking just a tiny bit from the engine cover explained in this video). On mine, it appears the just one corner is leaking / seeping (the front corner closest to the serpentine belt.) Could the crankshaft seal or oil cooler be leaking over this part of the pan too? It's so difficult to tell "where" my leak is coming from... Great video and so well explained. Thank you for this excellent content. Any other tips (as to other common leaks in the front left corner over oil pan)as viewed from the front of the vehicle?
Thanks. Yeah these Ecotec 1.4L turbo engines are prone to leak in three areas. The oil pan (like we show here), the timing chain cover, and the crankshaft seal. The bulk of this car's leak was coming from the pan, but it still has weeping from the timing chain cover, and crankshaft seal. So at some point I'll have to roll a video on doing one of those (the crankshaft seal would be my next step). If you suspect the oil cooler, it should be obvious as that component is back behind the turbocharger. Cleaning things up and watching where it comes back can help confirm.
@@DrShock thanks for the reply. I had the oil cooler unit replaced, so I hope that it's not leaking again. I sincerely hope it's just my oil pan leaking at the one corner, but I'll definitely clean it all again and watch the progress of the oil leakage / seepage over a few days. Thanks again for the super detailed video!
Thanks, well the cars these come in you buy for the car rather than the engine. You are kinda stuck with the engine if you like the car. They are more maintenance than other engines in this price bracket though. The Ecotec 2.2L that preceded these were reliable, inexpensive to repair, and often never leaked, in my experience. These 1.4Ls, and the 1.8Ls, are regular leakers and far more expensive to repair.
You have to disconnect the exhaust manifold and turbocharger connections to change out that oil cooler seal on the Ecotec 1.4L. You can leave it _nearby_ without completely removing it from the engine bay, but it'll be in your way big time. But you definitely have to pull it off and away from the engine to get access.
@DrShock do u have a video on that? Is it just the exhaust gasket and oil cooler gaskets u need in addition to the parts for this job. Btw, thanks for the response and detailed video...
I presume you have a Chevy Trax or a Buick Encore, with optional all wheel drive / four wheel drive, rather than a standard Cruze or Sonic. Such vehicles will likely have obstructions in doing this job in the form of the awd transfer case assembly. I've not worked on either of those SUVs, but I wouldn't be surprised if the transfer case had to be dropped or removed to access the oil pan.
@@DrShock yes, sorry. I have a 2015 Chevy TRAX AWD 1.4 LTZ. Had to replace turbo, valve cover and working on the oil pan. Followed the video (which is a great video) I went to pull the pan out and realized that your video might not be for an AWD. Oops. I can’t seem to find a video for one. Any suggestions?
I just checked, and you definitely have to pull the awd transfer case in order to get the necessary access/clearance to replace the engine oil pan (note step 6 here - www.chevtrax.com/oil_pan_replacement-4606.html ) but I'm not aware of any freely accessible service info on that. You'll likely have to buy a _three day weekend_ subscription to the service information (SI) over at www.acdelcotds.com to reveal the _Transfer Case Replacement_ procedure.
@@DrShock 2012 Chevy sonic 1.4. I was able to just remove the bolts where the cat mounts on the bottom and that gave me some play to push my cat and I disconnected the 3 where the exhaust has the flex pipe. It was just enough to get the oil pan down.
Are you referring to the 10mm nut on the stud retaining the cat bracket being removed in that view? If so, that stud is part of the bracket and not serviced separately.
The nuts are the same part number, and the stud in the time index you quoted is part of the upper retaining bracket for the cat. You can find both part numbers at eBay using this affiliate link: ebay.us/MtNC16 The other stud is part of the cat itself, as that lower bracket is welded on. So for that one you would have to buy a new cat.
Just tried this with a 14 buick encore, exhaust mounting is totally different and worse, at the back of the oil pan, there appears to be part of the transfer case in the way which I didn't notice until i got the pan loose and ready to come out. Now it's hung up. Anybody have any ideas how to get it out of there??
While they all use the same GM Ecotec 1.4L engine, and same engine parts for a given model year range, there's invariably going to be some engine and transaxle mounting differences across GM models that just can't be covered in a single video. Mounting brackets, cooling lines, differences in suspension and steering undercarriage components, exhaust routing, AWD transfer case, to name a few. That all said, the Buick Encore is going to be most similar to the Chevrolet Trax for this procedure wrt to what's in the way. You might find something for the Trax being that there were more of them made than the Encore. If you can reference a time index of my video, and what you're seeing, I'll see if I can find some disassembly information for you as well.
@@DrShock Around 35:45 where you are taking out those recessed bolts in the back by the trans, on the encore, that back ear of the oil pan by the axle is blocked by a part of the transaxle that is bolted into the hole right below it. So when you try to drop the oil pan down, it is hitting this ear on the transaxle below it near where the 42756 is stamped, i don't believe i can even see that number on mine, it is blocked.
Yeah so I can see that parts related to that assembly are likely what's in the way on both the Trax and the Encore with AWD. I think this parts explosion for the 2015 Chevrolet Trax might help visualize what's there. There's surprisingly very little, next to nothing, documentation wise on the Buick Encore though. 7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Chevrolet/Trax/TRAX%20%282015%20-%202015%29/Uk1JQURpbER5SUNPbzJYalpWT0JvQT09--/10102-%3E10635-%3E10798/113199%7C---JU%2CJV%2CJW76+TRANSFER+CASE+MOUNTING+%28ALL-WHEEL+DRIVE+F46%29/ Hope this helps. I've updated the video description to call attention to this AWD transfer case mounting bracket obstruction on the SUVs using this same engine.
DO NOT remove the cat, save a lot of time and aggravation....remove the airbox and remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut that hold the engine mount to the frame, jack up the engine(from the old oil pan) and wedge the crank pulley to the frame with a piece of wood (make sure its not on the plastic part of the pulley), you're welcome !!
Hello Sir, Sort of a weird question but I was wondering if you can tell me where I can find (or what type) the bolts on the heat shield are. ruclips.net/video/SHnmbnNbClU/видео.html. You opened these at around 3 minutes in the video of yours I linked. I have been able to find the heat shield online but the haven't been able to identify the bolts. Thank you so much.
Those E10 bolts that I start removing in that linked Turbocharger replacement video are only available from salvage yard vehicles now as they've been discontinued for some time. GM did supersede these with a regular hex head bolt which is cosmetically different but functionally the same. You can buy those new from your GM dealer or from time to time off eBay, here's an affiliate search link for them: ebay.us/1mwjZk
Nope, that's what a _layperson_ would presume. But as an engineer, I'm here to tell you that you cannot reuse those parts indicated as one time use. Torque to yield fasteners stretch due to their unique metallurgy, and thus must be replaced to maintain the correct engineering torque for the given engine components.
OK, that one is a more fair part to question replacing tbh. But while there's nothing one may be able to _see_ amiss visually, the engineers who designed that V clamp do point out _multiple times_ in the GM service manual that it has to be replaced whenever removed. Perhaps internal GM testing showed the clamp fatigued out of specification with repeated fastener torque, or GM was concerned about corrosion with an emissions part and this was proactive mitigation guidance. But who really knows, my view is if a fellow engineer says to replace it - then I replace it. ;-)
Nope, PCV on this model engine is a two piece design. The primary venting is located as an orange colored silicone bypass valve within the intake manifold on this model GM engine and is fine (it's a common failure though, and I have a video on how to check this here - ruclips.net/video/qGBt5skZWLI/видео.html). The secondary is at the Turbocharger vacuum line (this one almost never fails). The pressure valve in the top of camshaft cover is also fine (which is actually what goes first when the bypass valve is lost). Many folks confuse the pressure valve with a PCV on these engines, but it doesn't have anything to do with the crankcase ventilation. Unfortunately this model engine is prone to failures on the timing cover seal, and the front crankshaft seal as well as the oil pan seal. At least one of these problems should be expected past 60K miles.
Dr shock help me the bolt on the crossmember that goes into the frame whatever the nut is attached to broke so the passenger side of the crossmember is kinda dangling with the bolt loose and now it just spins what should I do to fix this
Ah ok so the 15mm and 13mm bolts go into a captive nut that should be welded on the opposite side during the original assembly of the car by GM. So you're saying that one of those nuts came off the crossmember internally then (i.e., the weld broke). Well that is a pita to deal with. You'll need to gain access to this nut so you can hold it in place with a box end wrench, or worst case vice grips. You may have to bend the dangling crossmember a bit to get it to clear the studs on the two rubber clad insulators so you can spin it out of the way to attempt this (you can straighten it back in a vice later). I don't recall what the clearance in this area looked like, you may end up not being able to reattach that one bolt as I don't think there's any room to reweld that nut back on.
No there’s no room it’s installed with the other bolts now the last bolt is loosely flipping around not even enough room through an access hole a couple inches over to fit anything but a screwdriver after spending all day working on it as of now it’s left as it is I don’t want to cut a hole to get to it
If you're doing this on a Sonic, I recommend getting an E10 wrench (rather than socket) for the bottom bolt of the heat shield - the bay is more cramped and there's a hose almost directly in front of the bolt.
This is One of the Best Videos on the Sonic LTZ Engine Oil Pan installation 😉👍🥳
Waiting on that Timing cover gasket video lol, your videos are good stuff!
Thanks, yeah I've got quite a backlog of projects to work thru.
I bet that’s where the leak really is
No, it ended up being the front crankshaft seal.
The link in the comments labeled Factory manual for… takes you to eBay for engine oil. Enjoy your videos, thanks for the effort.
Thanks for taking the time to point that out. Copy/paste error, fixed now.
Thank you so much for this video 🙏 I was planning on fixing all my leaks the pan is one of them . I have a 2013 Sonic RS with only 52k original miles and it's starting to leak around the pan and crank Although before watching your video I bought the gasket for the oil pan I did not know it was sealed on with sealant from GM .
I'm going to try the oil pan gasket only thing I can add is my car is a California car and the catalytic converter is twice the size of the one on your car so the part # on the clamp and ring gasket on the cat might be different .
I played around with Catless Downpipes and actually have a non Ca, Cat that I installed it was like bolting on 20 HP since the Ca, Converter was so much bigger
Gotta do this, this weekend. Great video.
Great video! This is why I love RUclips. Can I ask did you ever do the crank seal replacement, thanks from the UK 🇬🇧
Thanks. It's in my to-do queue still.
Excellent video I kind of felt like I was in a college class
Great video, very realistic expectations
Great tips. Would like to know the size and pitch of pan bolts so I can make a few "pins" myself. Just a bit of insurance so I don't smear the bead.
Thank you fellow human.
My oil pan looks just like the one from the beginning of the video (hence why I'm watching - car is leaking just a tiny bit from the engine cover explained in this video). On mine, it appears the just one corner is leaking / seeping (the front corner closest to the serpentine belt.) Could the crankshaft seal or oil cooler be leaking over this part of the pan too? It's so difficult to tell "where" my leak is coming from... Great video and so well explained. Thank you for this excellent content. Any other tips (as to other common leaks in the front left corner over oil pan)as viewed from the front of the vehicle?
Thanks. Yeah these Ecotec 1.4L turbo engines are prone to leak in three areas. The oil pan (like we show here), the timing chain cover, and the crankshaft seal. The bulk of this car's leak was coming from the pan, but it still has weeping from the timing chain cover, and crankshaft seal. So at some point I'll have to roll a video on doing one of those (the crankshaft seal would be my next step).
If you suspect the oil cooler, it should be obvious as that component is back behind the turbocharger. Cleaning things up and watching where it comes back can help confirm.
@@DrShock thanks for the reply. I had the oil cooler unit replaced, so I hope that it's not leaking again. I sincerely hope it's just my oil pan leaking at the one corner, but I'll definitely clean it all again and watch the progress of the oil leakage / seepage over a few days. Thanks again for the super detailed video!
Can I ask if it was just the oil cooler, or if it was the pan as well?@@arcadesunday4592
@@DrShock hey mine is weeping from t iming chain cover like you said, would it harm the engine using it like this?
Makes a mess for sure, but no actual harm in _delaying_ a timing chain cover gasket replacement as long as its just weep and not a full on leak.
MAN U R The BEST!!!
Solid video! Thanks.
Would you still recommend a eco-tech GM engine ? Great detailed video.
Thanks, well the cars these come in you buy for the car rather than the engine. You are kinda stuck with the engine if you like the car. They are more maintenance than other engines in this price bracket though. The Ecotec 2.2L that preceded these were reliable, inexpensive to repair, and often never leaked, in my experience. These 1.4Ls, and the 1.8Ls, are regular leakers and far more expensive to repair.
@@DrShock Thanks, for your time you saved my marriage. Keep up the great work !
Hello. Are these leaks due to quality control of the parts or wear and tear?
Normal/typical maintenance/wear areas for this particular GM engine model.
@@DrShock thanks
My 2014 1.4 eco doesn't have a oil pan seal gray or black silicone exhaust downpipe is about a joke putting back on
감사합니다 👍
Are you able to access the oil cooler/filter housing unit to change that seal with the cat off without removing the turbo?
You have to disconnect the exhaust manifold and turbocharger connections to change out that oil cooler seal on the Ecotec 1.4L. You can leave it _nearby_ without completely removing it from the engine bay, but it'll be in your way big time. But you definitely have to pull it off and away from the engine to get access.
@DrShock do u have a video on that? Is it just the exhaust gasket and oil cooler gaskets u need in addition to the parts for this job. Btw, thanks for the response and detailed video...
Not for the oil cooler, but here's one for replacing the turbo - ruclips.net/video/SHnmbnNbClU/видео.html
Is this the same process for a AWD? I seem to be stuck. Or do I need to pull the crank shaft pulley?
I presume you have a Chevy Trax or a Buick Encore, with optional all wheel drive / four wheel drive, rather than a standard Cruze or Sonic. Such vehicles will likely have obstructions in doing this job in the form of the awd transfer case assembly. I've not worked on either of those SUVs, but I wouldn't be surprised if the transfer case had to be dropped or removed to access the oil pan.
@@DrShock yes, sorry. I have a 2015 Chevy TRAX AWD 1.4 LTZ. Had to replace turbo, valve cover and working on the oil pan. Followed the video (which is a great video) I went to pull the pan out and realized that your video might not be for an AWD. Oops. I can’t seem to find a video for one. Any suggestions?
I just checked, and you definitely have to pull the awd transfer case in order to get the necessary access/clearance to replace the engine oil pan (note step 6 here - www.chevtrax.com/oil_pan_replacement-4606.html ) but I'm not aware of any freely accessible service info on that. You'll likely have to buy a _three day weekend_ subscription to the service information (SI) over at www.acdelcotds.com to reveal the _Transfer Case Replacement_ procedure.
do you happen to know the Oil Pan Bolts length? It's E10 but im not sure the lengh. Thank you!
Don't recall, but all 16 bolts are the same - GM part number 11517518.
Hmm, my exhaust right behind the flex portion actually bends up and over and then back down where I wouldn’t be able to do what you did
What model / year GM car do you have (e.g., Sonic, Trax)?
@@DrShock 2012 Chevy sonic 1.4. I was able to just remove the bolts where the cat mounts on the bottom and that gave me some play to push my cat and I disconnected the 3 where the exhaust has the flex pipe. It was just enough to get the oil pan down.
At 22:40 there is a 10mm nut with bolt, i tried to find those because it broke. Do you know the part number please?
Are you referring to the 10mm nut on the stud retaining the cat bracket being removed in that view? If so, that stud is part of the bracket and not serviced separately.
The 2 bolts and nuts on the catalytic converter bracket that hold the converter
The nuts are the same part number, and the stud in the time index you quoted is part of the upper retaining bracket for the cat. You can find both part numbers at eBay using this affiliate link: ebay.us/MtNC16
The other stud is part of the cat itself, as that lower bracket is welded on. So for that one you would have to buy a new cat.
Thanks a lot!
I don't see the torque spec for those nuts in the video, do you know?
Just tried this with a 14 buick encore, exhaust mounting is totally different and worse, at the back of the oil pan, there appears to be part of the transfer case in the way which I didn't notice until i got the pan loose and ready to come out. Now it's hung up. Anybody have any ideas how to get it out of there??
While they all use the same GM Ecotec 1.4L engine, and same engine parts for a given model year range, there's invariably going to be some engine and transaxle mounting differences across GM models that just can't be covered in a single video. Mounting brackets, cooling lines, differences in suspension and steering undercarriage components, exhaust routing, AWD transfer case, to name a few.
That all said, the Buick Encore is going to be most similar to the Chevrolet Trax for this procedure wrt to what's in the way. You might find something for the Trax being that there were more of them made than the Encore. If you can reference a time index of my video, and what you're seeing, I'll see if I can find some disassembly information for you as well.
@@DrShock Around 35:45 where you are taking out those recessed bolts in the back by the trans, on the encore, that back ear of the oil pan by the axle is blocked by a part of the transaxle that is bolted into the hole right below it. So when you try to drop the oil pan down, it is hitting this ear on the transaxle below it near where the 42756 is stamped, i don't believe i can even see that number on mine, it is blocked.
Is your vehicle AWD (4 wheel drive)?
@@DrShock Yes.
Yeah so I can see that parts related to that assembly are likely what's in the way on both the Trax and the Encore with AWD. I think this parts explosion for the 2015 Chevrolet Trax might help visualize what's there. There's surprisingly very little, next to nothing, documentation wise on the Buick Encore though. 7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Chevrolet/Trax/TRAX%20%282015%20-%202015%29/Uk1JQURpbER5SUNPbzJYalpWT0JvQT09--/10102-%3E10635-%3E10798/113199%7C---JU%2CJV%2CJW76+TRANSFER+CASE+MOUNTING+%28ALL-WHEEL+DRIVE+F46%29/
Hope this helps. I've updated the video description to call attention to this AWD transfer case mounting bracket obstruction on the SUVs using this same engine.
How Much The Dealer Ship Would Charge You for this Repair
👍
DO NOT remove the cat, save a lot of time and aggravation....remove the airbox and remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut that hold the engine mount to the frame, jack up the engine(from the old oil pan) and wedge the crank pulley to the frame with a piece of wood (make sure its not on the plastic part of the pulley), you're welcome !!
@@Aceintheplac3 takes 10 minutes to remove the cat.
Hello Sir,
Sort of a weird question but I was wondering if you can tell me where I can find (or what type) the bolts on the heat shield are. ruclips.net/video/SHnmbnNbClU/видео.html. You opened these at around 3 minutes in the video of yours I linked. I have been able to find the heat shield online but the haven't been able to identify the bolts. Thank you so much.
Those E10 bolts that I start removing in that linked Turbocharger replacement video are only available from salvage yard vehicles now as they've been discontinued for some time. GM did supersede these with a regular hex head bolt which is cosmetically different but functionally the same. You can buy those new from your GM dealer or from time to time off eBay, here's an affiliate search link for them: ebay.us/1mwjZk
You can actually reuse most of the parts, they just want you to buy new ones.
Nope, that's what a _layperson_ would presume. But as an engineer, I'm here to tell you that you cannot reuse those parts indicated as one time use. Torque to yield fasteners stretch due to their unique metallurgy, and thus must be replaced to maintain the correct engineering torque for the given engine components.
@@DrShock The TTY bolts obviously need to be replaced, But I don't see why you need to replace the turbo/cat clamp when there's nothing wrong with it.
OK, that one is a more fair part to question replacing tbh.
But while there's nothing one may be able to _see_ amiss visually, the engineers who designed that V clamp do point out _multiple times_ in the GM service manual that it has to be replaced whenever removed. Perhaps internal GM testing showed the clamp fatigued out of specification with repeated fastener torque, or GM was concerned about corrosion with an emissions part and this was proactive mitigation guidance.
But who really knows, my view is if a fellow engineer says to replace it - then I replace it. ;-)
Ide be willing to bet your pcv valve in your intake manifold failed blew mail seal and oil pan gasket
Nope, PCV on this model engine is a two piece design. The primary venting is located as an orange colored silicone bypass valve within the intake manifold on this model GM engine and is fine (it's a common failure though, and I have a video on how to check this here - ruclips.net/video/qGBt5skZWLI/видео.html). The secondary is at the Turbocharger vacuum line (this one almost never fails).
The pressure valve in the top of camshaft cover is also fine (which is actually what goes first when the bypass valve is lost). Many folks confuse the pressure valve with a PCV on these engines, but it doesn't have anything to do with the crankcase ventilation.
Unfortunately this model engine is prone to failures on the timing cover seal, and the front crankshaft seal as well as the oil pan seal. At least one of these problems should be expected past 60K miles.
Fuck all bullshit been having problems with this car so much I’m just gonna sell it
2 days fighting and prying that oil pan just to see this video and find out those two hidden bolts exist.... god, I fuckin hate american cars...
GM makes a shit product an that's why I stoped buying gms back in late 1970s an went FORD.
you literally know less than my dog, congrats!
Dr shock help me the bolt on the crossmember that goes into the frame whatever the nut is attached to broke so the passenger side of the crossmember is kinda dangling with the bolt loose and now it just spins what should I do to fix this
The crossmember that the exhaust is attached to
Can you mention a time index in the video so I can be sure of the area you are referencing?
16:08
Ah ok so the 15mm and 13mm bolts go into a captive nut that should be welded on the opposite side during the original assembly of the car by GM. So you're saying that one of those nuts came off the crossmember internally then (i.e., the weld broke). Well that is a pita to deal with. You'll need to gain access to this nut so you can hold it in place with a box end wrench, or worst case vice grips. You may have to bend the dangling crossmember a bit to get it to clear the studs on the two rubber clad insulators so you can spin it out of the way to attempt this (you can straighten it back in a vice later). I don't recall what the clearance in this area looked like, you may end up not being able to reattach that one bolt as I don't think there's any room to reweld that nut back on.
No there’s no room it’s installed with the other bolts now the last bolt is loosely flipping around not even enough room through an access hole a couple inches over to fit anything but a screwdriver after spending all day working on it as of now it’s left as it is I don’t want to cut a hole to get to it