Good install. One thing you probably should check - not sure your manometer is adjusted correctly. This is a problem for most installs because people don't realize the glass tubes can slide up or down in the bracket. Your vid shows it is pulling vacuum , but, the other side is setting at zero. Zero the gauge. To do this, just pull out the clear tube, and slide the glass up or down to get both sides at the zero mark. The lower the vac pull, the higher the airflow, so with a semi-accurate measurement, the fan manual will then tell you how much actual airflow you are getting. Bottom line is what you have already figured out with the use of these terrific digital gauges - your radon levels dropped radically. Well done.
A question: I have a sump pit in my furnace room. Can I drill a 4 inch hole and install my mitigation pipe 3 feet away from the pit? I would rather have the pipe closer to the other side of the room.
Great job, can I ask a question if you don't mind? I have an existing passive system PVC pipe from the basement to the attic. I bought a fan that I'll install. My question is if it's ok to put the fan in the basement instead of in the attic? In the attic it's a bit inconvenient to reach. My current level is 4.7pCi/L so it's not crazy high, so would it be ok for the fan to be at the basement level pulling the radon up or is it much better and safer to put it in the attic to make sure that radon gets out of the house? Thanks for any input.
What does a person do if the catch pan for their water heater drains to the sump pit? Would one just evacuate the slab directly and merely seal the sump pit? (Trap on catch pan)
I thought the outer diameter of the pipe for 3 inch is 3.5 inch, how do you cut s hole using 3inch hole saw??? Does a 3 inch hole saw cut a bigger hole than 3 inch to fit the pvc outer diameter?
You seem to have room in the basement to put the radon fan, is there a reason you didn't install it inside the basement rather than outside the house as you did?
My lid arrives today and I'll be starting this project. I want to use a 4" sch40 pipe, can this be done with this lid? If I use a 3" threaded coupler and step up to a 4" pipe doesn't that defeat the purpose for airflow?
The 3-inch hole with a step up to 4-inch pipe should work fine, actually better than a 3-inch line all the way to the fan. The 3-inch hole in the cover will be a slight bottleneck, but air is compressible, and once it reaches the 4-inch pipe, the flow resistance will be lower in the larger cross-section and the system will work slightly better.
@@raccoonhouse I've been trying to post my reply to you and RUclips keeps deleting it seconds after, this is getting frustrating. Let's try again ------- I just decided to cut a new 4" hole into the lid. Results ended up great. Good volume, maximizing my fans specs for pressure vs movement, creates a uniform speed of flow at the entrance to the piping this way, keeps it quieter too, and most importantly, reduced my Radon levels to negligible numbers. I tried to post a link to my pics but perhaps this is why my reply doesn't remain on here.
@@c.a.n.4202 what cutter device do you use for the hole? Have a link to tools and parts? It cuts a 4 inch hole exactly? Which pipe parts or setup do you put through the 4 inch hole u cut out? Or do you put a threaded adapter through it?
I have a question: if you just install such a pipeline, without a fan, does it still work good? My reasons: 1. because the sump lid is sealed, if there is some gas (air or mixed with other harmful materials, most from the underground) in the sump space, pressure is built up, the gas will come out. I think we can also use a vertical sewage pipe which has a vent up out from the roof to guide the gas out. Use natural pressure difference to release the gas. (The higher place has lower pressure than the lower place). What you do think?
No, without a fan it will not work. The fan creates a negative pressure that pulls out the radon gas. If Radon is heavier than air and will sit in the basement unless pulled out.
Without a fan the system will be considered a passive system instead of an active system. Of course it won't work as well without suction, but it might work well enough if your radon levels are only marginal to begin with and the sump is your only source of radon entering your house. It doesn't hurt to try without a fan first, just be sure to test again to see if your passive system accomplished the safe radon levels you want to achieve.
By adding that 1" drain that bypasses the radon fan you have effectively introduced a huge leak in the system. The fan is going to be pulling air down from that drain instead of from your basement. Did you add a manometer on the inside PVC to test for negative pressure?
Yes I had a vacuum indicator in the basement and it was producing a vacuum, also the radon level decreased in the basement. The fan manufacturer required the drain, or it would not have been covered under warranty.
I agree with all of this. Great looking installation. Very clean and pro-quality. The drain for the fan is the first I've seen and a great idea. But yes, no backup pump? No alarm or water detector? No sight glass? All things that I plan for my system.
The window was an extra cost, and I didn't see myself peering in the window to look to see if things were working when the sump output and the fan are easy to check if either system is working. As to the battery backup for the sump, the area rarely has any power issues as the power lines are mostly underground, if I were in a place with an electrical grid that was not as trustworthy may have considered it.
@@techfox540what couplers did you use on the top and bottom of the fan? The ones with the clamps. I'm assuming you used those clamps instead of gluing the fan so you can replace it in the future, correct?
@@chancellorcarter716 They are rubber "boots" that were included with the kit, and do indeed have a hose clamps so I can replace the fan in the future if needed.
Good install. One thing you probably should check - not sure your manometer is adjusted correctly. This is a problem for most installs because people don't realize the glass tubes can slide up or down in the bracket. Your vid shows it is pulling vacuum , but, the other side is setting at zero. Zero the gauge. To do this, just pull out the clear tube, and slide the glass up or down to get both sides at the zero mark. The lower the vac pull, the higher the airflow, so with a semi-accurate measurement, the fan manual will then tell you how much actual airflow you are getting. Bottom line is what you have already figured out with the use of these terrific digital gauges - your radon levels dropped radically. Well done.
A question: I have a sump pit in my furnace room. Can I drill a 4 inch hole and install my mitigation pipe 3 feet away from the pit? I would rather have the pipe closer to the other side of the room.
Do you need to drill another hole on the slab and add PVC pipe to outside for decompression or just using the sump is okay?
Great job, can I ask a question if you don't mind? I have an existing passive system PVC pipe from the basement to the attic. I bought a fan that I'll install. My question is if it's ok to put the fan in the basement instead of in the attic? In the attic it's a bit inconvenient to reach. My current level is 4.7pCi/L so it's not crazy high, so would it be ok for the fan to be at the basement level pulling the radon up or is it much better and safer to put it in the attic to make sure that radon gets out of the house? Thanks for any input.
What does a person do if the catch pan for their water heater drains to the sump pit?
Would one just evacuate the slab directly and merely seal the sump pit? (Trap on catch pan)
Very nice install! I plan to put a 90 on the pipe exit and on the roof. We have Radon at 35 pCi/L
Nice job, so water coming from the top exit makes it way into the drain and back into the slap?
I thought the outer diameter of the pipe for 3 inch is 3.5 inch, how do you cut s hole using 3inch hole saw??? Does a 3 inch hole saw cut a bigger hole than 3 inch to fit the pvc outer diameter?
Nice video. Why didn’t you just install the fan inside the home just above the dome?
do you have a link to the 3 inch screw in adapter going into the radon pipe hole? Does it need to be rated sch 40?
You seem to have room in the basement to put the radon fan, is there a reason you didn't install it inside the basement rather than outside the house as you did?
where is the fan getting air to push out from?
My lid arrives today and I'll be starting this project. I want to use a 4" sch40 pipe, can this be done with this lid? If I use a 3" threaded coupler and step up to a 4" pipe doesn't that defeat the purpose for airflow?
The 3-inch hole with a step up to 4-inch pipe should work fine, actually better than a 3-inch line all the way to the fan. The 3-inch hole in the cover will be a slight bottleneck, but air is compressible, and once it reaches the 4-inch pipe, the flow resistance will be lower in the larger cross-section and the system will work slightly better.
@@raccoonhouse I've been trying to post my reply to you and RUclips keeps deleting it seconds after, this is getting frustrating. Let's try again ------- I just decided to cut a new 4" hole into the lid. Results ended up great. Good volume, maximizing my fans specs for pressure vs movement, creates a uniform speed of flow at the entrance to the piping this way, keeps it quieter too, and most importantly, reduced my Radon levels to negligible numbers. I tried to post a link to my pics but perhaps this is why my reply doesn't remain on here.
@@c.a.n.4202 what cutter device do you use for the hole? Have a link to tools and parts? It cuts a 4 inch hole exactly? Which pipe parts or setup do you put through the 4 inch hole u cut out? Or do you put a threaded adapter through it?
Similar question for what tool and pvc parts did u used to cut the 4 inch hole to go outside? Links to parts would be helpful.
I have a question: if you just install such a pipeline, without a fan, does it still work good? My reasons: 1. because the sump lid is sealed, if there is some gas (air or mixed with other harmful materials, most from the underground) in the sump space, pressure is built up, the gas will come out. I think we can also use a vertical sewage pipe which has a vent up out from the roof to guide the gas out. Use natural pressure difference to release the gas. (The higher place has lower pressure than the lower place). What you do think?
No, without a fan it will not work. The fan creates a negative pressure that pulls out the radon gas. If Radon is heavier than air and will sit in the basement unless pulled out.
Without a fan the system will be considered a passive system instead of an active system. Of course it won't work as well without suction, but it might work well enough if your radon levels are only marginal to begin with and the sump is your only source of radon entering your house. It doesn't hurt to try without a fan first, just be sure to test again to see if your passive system accomplished the safe radon levels you want to achieve.
@@raccoonhouse This is the correct answer. Many homes now in high radon areas (Canada) are pre-built with a passive system in place.
@@raccoonhouse Thank you very much for your reply. Quite to the point.
By adding that 1" drain that bypasses the radon fan you have effectively introduced a huge leak in the system. The fan is going to be pulling air down from that drain instead of from your basement. Did you add a manometer on the inside PVC to test for negative pressure?
Yes I had a vacuum indicator in the basement and it was producing a vacuum, also the radon level decreased in the basement. The fan manufacturer required the drain, or it would not have been covered under warranty.
Why not just put a hood on top to prevent water going in instead of building in the 1 inch bypass?
Looks like a very quality and thorough installation, and an effective RUclips, but why no backup sump pump, battery backup and inspection plexiglass?
I agree with all of this. Great looking installation. Very clean and pro-quality. The drain for the fan is the first I've seen and a great idea. But yes, no backup pump? No alarm or water detector? No sight glass? All things that I plan for my system.
The window was an extra cost, and I didn't see myself peering in the window to look to see if things were working when the sump output and the fan are easy to check if either system is working. As to the battery backup for the sump, the area rarely has any power issues as the power lines are mostly underground, if I were in a place with an electrical grid that was not as trustworthy may have considered it.
@@techfox540what couplers did you use on the top and bottom of the fan? The ones with the clamps. I'm assuming you used those clamps instead of gluing the fan so you can replace it in the future, correct?
@@chancellorcarter716 They are rubber "boots" that were included with the kit, and do indeed have a hose clamps so I can replace the fan in the future if needed.
Love it. Thank you
Great video
Notice any quality of health changes? Seems like this radon removal was a fad of the 2010’s…. No?
No, radon removal is not a fad.