Thanks you so much for posting these how to videos......I really appreciate you helping out the MINI community, you will never know how much time and money you have saved me, I salute you sir...Kind regards!
First, thanks for the video, it was very helpful. Much easier than following the Chilton Book. Second, I have a few tips after spending the day replacing the inner CV boot on the passenger side of a manual 2003 mini. The video comment to remove the fan as recommended is easy and very helpful. The first two axle mount bolts were accessible from under the car, and the third hidden bolt on my model was easily accessed through the wheel opening at top. The ball joint under the wheel disc did not come off at all by removing the two bolts shown in the video. The easy tap with a hammer and just fall off didn't happen. In fact even a flat chisel and sledge hammer couldn't break it free. Still not sure what the issue is there, but I resorted to taking off the ball joint, which proved to be a challenge as well. It would not budge. RECOMMENDATION: Before you damage threads like I did with banging and such, go to to Advance Auto and rent a ball joint separator KIT. Advance will let you buy one they have in the back and then return it when you are finished. The rental is free. You do have to put the $120 on your credit card as a deposit, to ensure that you bring it back. NOTE: I wasted $39 on a different ball puller at NAPA that turned out to have too wide a gap and did not work. That was my fault not NAPA. Only the puller in the KIT with flexible joint hooks worked, and presto it came right off. This would have been good to know 4 hours ago, $39 ago, and before I screwed up the bolt threads. Never fear, I managed to fix the threads and re-bolt later. RECOMMENDATION: When you pull the axle out the side of the transmission, be sure to lower the opposing side of the car. This will hopefully avoid transmission fluid from pouring out. NOTE: Again this would have saved me loosing several ounces. Also note, Advanced and several other auto stores I checked, do not carry suitable manual transmission fluid for the Mini. Also note: You have to add the fluid directly into the transmission while under the car, filling it up to the upper plug hole. RECOMMENDATION: It is good to have the right tools. I didn't have ring clip pliers, so I used needle nose and a small screwdriver to pop it off. Plus a friend helped to hold the pin until I slid the screwdriver behind it. The right tool would have been better. Also I happen to have an old version of the clamp pliers. I suppose you could rig that as well, but the right pliers were much better plan. RECOMMENDATION: When putting the axle back into place, climb under the car to direct the axle into place, and have a friend hold the other axle end from the wheel well. Also finger tighten ALL three axle mount bolts prior to tightening any of them down. And be sure to pay attention to the location of the screw holes as you line up the axle. This gave me a few minutes of profanity because I was assuming I had it lined up. That is it, otherwise it was a little intimidating, but really actually a fairly easy job (if not for my snags).
Kevin Lovingsher Thanks for the comments. Here are mine: 1. About 10% of the time the ball joints don't fall out. Maybe higher probability in places that use salt on icy roads. A cold chisel and a large hammer works, but it takes time. If one side is stuck, the other side is always stuck as well. 2. I recommend draining all or some transmission fluid, but tilting the car is an option as well. Note that the sway bar will be under tension - do not work on the suspension when one side of the car is on the ground - bolts will either bind or come apart with explosive force. 3. Absolutely - working with c-clips without the right tool can be dangerous. 4. Good tips. I can do this myself with practice, but it's nice to have a helping hand.
I’m new to the mini community and had to start working on my R53 as the are no shops that’ll touch it. Thank you for your very informative and thorough how-to videos, they save me a lot of time and money.
2004 mcs here... I wished my ball joints would have fell out like that after a few wacks. After wacking several times I just gave up and decide to take the nut off at the ball joint using a separating tool. I was successful at separating the parts but rookie here damaged the threads on the ball joint. Figured with the ball joint thread damaged - either chase the threads to repair OR replace. Decided to replace but still had a time removing the old ball joints. Finally took a trip down to harbor freight for the $10 air hammer and glad I did, I had the ball joints out in about 30-40 seconds top and taking it easy as well because that was the first time using an air hammer. Once out I think I found the issue... rust. Both ball joint and carrier had a ton of rust build up. Sanded the inside of the carrier to remove rust and now wait on new ball joints. Mainly posting this for folks that run into the same issue.
Yeah they can get like that over time. If you don't have an air hammer, a filed down cold chisel and a big hammer work as well. Put some anti-seize (the copper color stuff) on the ball joint when assembling to reduce chance of it happening again in future. But usually even in rust belt you can get the ball joints to pop out if you hit them with a big enough hammer...
Mad Mini, I just want to say THANK YOU!!!!!! You sir, with your detailed videos have literally saved me many thousands of dollars in repairs on my 2003 Mini Cooper. Please keep up the great videos! You are Awesome !!
Mod Mini Thanks so much for these videos. After reading so many horror stories of money, money, money on Minis, these videos are ultimately what made me fell comfortable enough to pick one up. 03 R53 in the driveway, and I think for the most part I can do everything that needs to be done thanks to these videos
Thank you Mod mini, I used this video to replace the boot only. I caught it before it started clicking. I didn't have to remove the carrier bracket thank goodness. I also used your supercharger oil service video. You are very valuable to the community.
I've built every car I've ever owned (7 Air cooled VW's, and 2 Porsche's) since 1982. I bought my first and only new car - R53 brand new in 2004 with only 3 miles on the OD. After the warranty expired, the cost of repairs at the dealership were astronomical. Independent BMW mechanics were just as expensive, sloppy, cut corners and many times lied about "repairs" that weren't necessary. I often refer to my official Bentley manual, but having discovered your Mod Mini channel; it has been a revelation! Your video procedures are well documented and your verbal editorials are insightful, clear and poignant. You could have been the guy that wrote the book (note:compliment ahead)- "How To Keep Your VW Alive - For The Compleet Idiot"; (which was my bible when I first started building cars..). Thank you so much for sharing your expertise, professionalism and insight - Mod Mini is the only channel I look for before I begin to dive into any repairs on my 17 y/o MCS. Thank you sir- You have saved me a lot of time, money and frustration!!!
You are absolutely awesome. I really enjoy working on my 2004 Mini Cooper S. Your videos are building my confidence in DIY on this vehicle, and saving me so much money. Thanks so very much!
Thank you! Used this to do my pass side axle today. Mine was torn in The same spot. I got away with not using a bench vice and my snap ring tool sucked, but it got done. I also put anti seize on my axle living in a snowy cold, salt using area. I have had them seize up on other cars. Great video again.
Amateur Tips: Like others my ball joints did not come off with a few hammer hits. I had to shimmy the two pieces with blades until I could get my screwdriver and chisel in. Then wack, wack and off. I also needed a prybar to pull out the axle. I tried with my large screwdriver and I couldn't get enough leverage on jackstands. Your videos rock!
I had to do this to my R53 the other day while changing my struts. The bolt in the middle for the long axle was hard to get too. Had to remove the vac pump fan. Great video as always!
SquawkHawk Yeah, you can probably get to it with a socket + short extension by removing the power steering fan. I just took a shortcut here since I was lucky enough to have a super long 13mm wrench (that a previous mechanic had forgotten in this MINI's engine bay many years ago!)
I replaced both axles this weekend. Everything goes so well for you in these videos. Have you ever had these problems? The passenger side axle didnt want to come out of the hub took excessive hammer blows. Went in pretty easy except that the bearing bracket that was installed on the new axle didnt want to let the mounting bolts to align. Got them in but that was 30 minutes by it self. The Driver side was no problem at all in and s=out sweet.
+BigSteveRealtor Sometimes axles can get stuck to the hub in 'rust belt' areas (places that use salt on the roads). Penetrating oil can help. If using a hammer, thread the nut back on the shaft to avoid mushrooming the end of the strut. It can become larger than the hole and be hard to get out. The only time I have had problems with the bearing bracket is when the manufacturer puts the wrong bearing onto the axle. (R50 and R53 use different brackets)
thanks for these videos. I just bought a 2002 R50 and the fuel filter needed to be replaced and the CV joint. This car was towed 2 years ago and has been sitting. I just need a how to on swapping out the window mechanism on the passenger side and I be in pretty good shape.
Thanks for this video! Just finished changing the axles on my R53 and all went well. I changed the gearbox fluid while at it, and changed the ball joints as well.
I literally just got back from picking up my car from the shop from this exact repair; I look in my email and see a link to this video. Spoooky! If I had a proper shop, I would love to be able to do all this myself. But then again, they were late getting my car back to me, apparently the axle was really seized up.
After replacing axle ( 2004 Mini R53)I am now getting several warning lights..Tire pressure/ low brake pad warning/ stability control/ABS. I had replaced an axle previously, and did not get any warning lights. What would cause these lights, and how to erase them. Thanks..(all your videos have been most helpful)
Clint Rowland Thanks for watching! I've just now started a Twitter account for #ModMINI - subscribe to get notified of new video uploads! twitter.com/ModMINIRUclips
Highly useful and helpful video. Very good job. Made the work much easier. I had removed the axles for a transmission swap (5-speed to 6-speed) but the passenger-side axle from the donor vehicle only lasted about four thousand miles or so before it gave out. In hindsight, it would have been better had I simply replaced both axles when I swapped transmissions. Hindsight it seems is 20-20.
Great video ! Thanks for explaining things as you did the operation. I had my 2005 mini cooper due to a torn boot and dry bearings soon after I purchased the vehicle but now have a noise that starts around 30 mph and gets worse the faster you go with a shimmy starting at 65. Is it possible that he didn't get the splines mated back in as far enough or damaged the bearing as it was reinstalled? If it was an older chevy or Ford, I would say it's a dry speedometer cable as the sound is so much like that. What noise would it make if the bearing is damaged ? Got any ideas? Regards , Ken
My car is not lowered, and I didn't have any problem with the previous axle. I also replaced the clutch following your video guidelines, and I had some problems that I needed to loose motor mounts, could the motor be displaced to the left? but the transmission motor mount doesn't allow any adjusting. What axle brand do you recommend for long lasting? my old axle body for the bearings is kind of triangular, while new ones are rounded and not allowing to set the clip for the carrier because diameter where you need to pass through with the clip is to big. Thanks
Angel Amurri Probably you just had a normal mechanical failure then. The axles will allow for small amount of side to side motion. I recommend the remanufactured axles in the video description.
If you're doing the left side. This side has a "C clip". How does that affect the axle removal? And the reinstallation? You videos are great. My son and i did the right side about a year ago. This video really helped.
If you can find the correct size boot and CV grease you could just replace those... For most people, it's easier to replace the whole part to avoid having to do the work again in case of any damage due to loss of lubrication or water/dirt contamination. If it's already making noise, it's too late and you'll have to replace the whole axle.
Hi great video on how to do this, I did the short side axle or drivers side if you not in Europe and got everything in but doesn't run right. Doesn't feel like the axle is actually connecting or something. It dumped a lot of fluid when I pulled it out could the be my issue?
Very nice walk through of your process. However I'm wondering why not just replace, and repack the inner boot? A kit will cost you around $25 with everything you will need, and you don't have to mess around with carrier bearing.. Your tri-pod roller bearings came out easy from the flange, all you would need is some type of puller around 5ton to get the tri-pod off the splins if it's really on there, it has a clip holding it in place like the larger one you took off the carrier bearing but smaller.. Was the joint, roller bearing on the tri-pod damaged for replacing the entire axle?
if the joint is already clicking then there's no saving it, there is also the risk of repacking it with a new boot that you get some dirt in the joint ruining it anyways to where you need a new axle, should just start with the axle unless you ripped the boot yourself on accident and you know no dirt got into it
Great video! Doing mine next week. Why not put loctite on main bolt when reinstalling? It seems like that would make sense, is there a reason why I shouldn’t use it?
On the 32mm nut? Not needed because you're going to dent the lock ring of the bolt in when done tightening. Not sure I've ever seen Loctite ever used on any axle bolt.
Hi, I was able to do everything in the video except the part of inserting the axle back. It doesn't want to go all the way in, I’ve tried to wiggle it and us force but it didn't go. it needs to enter less than 1” to get all the way in. Thanks for your videos!!
at 8:07 what is that piece you tap out I didn't have it on my 04 r53 I had a leaking seal and replaced it with a new one and it's still leaking the same but I noticed I don't have that piece you're tapping off and don't know if that would actually make a difference
I've seen a few instances where axle still leaks even after replacing the seal, even though axle seal surface seems ok. I don't know why but replacing the axle stops the leak.
Hi mod MINI Your video is awesome, but my question is if you have some news about right cv axle popping out, I'm having the same problem as Rafael Vasquez. My replacements were from O'Reilly, should I buy something different? Thanks
Followed these directions pretty precisely, swapped the left side axle out, drove the car around the block, and the left axle separated at the inner joint just as I pulled back in the driveway. Everything was tight, this is the third axle it's gone through in a month, previous two a mechanic installed. Any idea what may be going on? Something is causing these to break. Car is lowered an inch, I don't think that should be enough to cause issue though?
With your knowledge of Mini's. would you say that a 2008 Mini Cooper Automatic is a safer car to purchase...given the power steering pump issues and the CVT transmission problems. I am trying to get as much information before I actually make the purchase. I am looking to understand the issues to be aware of. Thank you !!!
My inner boot got tore by the inner ball joint bolt sticking right up (woops) so I'd only jacked up 1 side. Not disconnected the anti roll bar or tie rod end... I'm replacing the Bush using in car cut out method. Question is (should I jack it up evenly and remove the tie rod steering then remove the axle) can I replace the torn boot and put back in? Or new axel a better move? Car is 2006 55k r53. Rusty sub frame...
hey,fantastic stuff. was wondering, I have what feels like a front wheel vibration only under acceleration. do i need to swap out my cv axle. did motor mounts already, not it.
Hi there. I am replacing the driver side axle. What C clip are you refering too. All i see is that on the outside axle shaft there was a ring that was rusted on to it and the new one does not have this ring.
The ring on the end of the axle that goes into the transmission. There is a groove in which the ring sits. If the new one has no ring, you might need to transfer it over from the old axle. Or look in the box.
I found out the hard way that the 2003 R50 5 speed transmission fill plug is significantly above the axel seal opening and therefore, 1-1/2 quart of gear oil poured out onto my garage floor when I popped the driver’s side axel out. Note to self - drain the gear case first!
Help please! I need to install the CV and axle on my 2002 Mini R50. the short one went on pretty easy, but the long one seems to be hitting a solid wall. I've twisted and wrestled for a couple hours. what gives? Any consultation/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. PS I do not have the luxury of paying someone else and I do not have a garage. I did check and the splines and everything match the one I pulled off. Praying for an answer. 🙏
Great video, when I pulled the axle out it dumped a lot of transmission fluid out compared to what I saw in your video and others. I'm taking the opportunity to change the fluid but should it be cause for concern?
I had only jacked up the front, and it turned out I had the passenger side down a notch compared to driver, so that was probably it. Thanks again for all your videos.
My 05 r50 is making a really loud whining noise that increases with speed regardless of gear. It doesn’t get too bad until I get to highway speed (ie 55-75 mph). I changed the gearbox oil, but the noise is still there. I suspect it’s a bad bearing in the gearbox, but could it be something in the axles like a bearing? Thanks for the awesome videos. They have been very helpful!
have you attempted to take the old shaft apart? my friend has a leaky inner joint as wondering if I could knock the outer joint off and then slide the new boots on? thanks Mini guru
+Warwick Dean A little. One of the two joints uses a special type of boot with baffles. The other half requires removing a c-clip and knocking the joint off the axle. Given the trouble, and possible damage to the axle, I'd prefer to just get a new axle, but yes, it is technically possible to slide on a new boot.
+Mod MINI thanks for the reply, hmm I would to but my friend is a tight git. It's his inner cv boot, I was going to replace by removing the outer joint however if they require a special boot I guess theyr not going to be cheap like the universal type so il tell him to get a complete axle and stop moaning lol
@Mod MINI There is some seals at the end of the axle (gearbox side). I presume I need to follow this tutorial and before replace the axles, replace the seals. Is there any need to special tools? Can we do it quite easily? Thanks for all your vids, thanks to these, I'm not afraid anymore to repair by myself!
Does the passenger axle slide all the way into the transmission? After switching the carrier and putting it on as far as it will go, the holes don't line up if the axle is put in all the way. If I slide it out a little then it'll line up. I can't move the carrier any more on to the bearing..
Have an advisory for CV a joint gaiter. Does it mean one needs to place the boot cover ? And to do that the whole CV joint need to be pulled out ? If yes, then try getting away with replacing the boot or might just replace the full assembly ? Left and right gaiters. Thanks.
+SuperDexterization +SuperDexterization Axles are so cheap, I always just replace the whole axle, since it requires removing the whole thing to replace a boot anyway. What is a gaiter?
+Mod MINI I think they call it the gaiter in UK. says front cv joint gaiter deteriorated but preventing ingress. So I am guessing it's the boot. The most I have done on suspension of a car (not a mini) is control arms and shocks and endlinks. Is this job more involved than those? How much of labour cost you think it will be ? Trying to get a picture of time spent if I do it myself vs costs if done by a garage. Thanks.
Hi there, trying to order the correct size axles for my manual r53. The seal surface diameter is in question. What size should those be? I'm hearing I can get 40mm for the driver side (left) and 35mm for the passenger side (right). Is this correct? I was told the right side should be 31mm? Thanks for any help
I would like to install a 6 speed manual transmission in 2005 Mini Cooper. I would like to know if the cooper and the cooper S have the same cv axles so I know if a 6 spd can be installed into a regular cooper? thanks
Different axles, different clutch, different hydraulics. The flywheel weights are different as well which may make the car hard to drive without revving up the engine when coming off a complete stop. I can't say I'd recommend it.
hi I fallow you, and enjoy your videos, they are very helpful. I just replaced my driver side cv axle on my r53 6spd manual and I'm having trouble with the axle popping out when I start driving. any idea what could be causing this to happen? any help would be appreciated. I'm on my third axle and I have no idea what to do, they keep sliding out.😞 please help thank you
Hey mod mini, I have a question if you can please answer it. Recently like almost like 1 month ago I replaced my right axle like this video cause the bearings were bad, couple days later the new axle popped out of the halfshaft and destroyed all the bearings, so I replaced. 4 more axles later it keeps popping out of the halfshaft when I go on a dip mostly :( any help or info? I replaced my strut mounts and no luck?
That's very odd. Is it the left or right axle? Is the axle spline popping out of the transmission or is the CV joint itself separating? I can't imagine any change in suspension geometry so great that it would cause this kind of behavior and the car is still drivable. The axles are designed to be able to grow longer/shorter in response to changes in suspension geometry (strut/control arm angle).
Its the passenger side axle. The half shaft is fine. Just where the CV axle joins the half shaft to the wheel itself pops out of the half shaft when I hit a dip and destroys all the bearings when It tries to go back in. Any suggestions what can cause this?
Rafael Vasquez Is your car significantly lowered or has a ton of positive camber? It could be causing the axle to extend beyond its mechanical limits, allowing the bearings to fall out of the CV cup. Or has the car been in an accident??
I wouldn't say it's lowered cause of stock suspension and I recently took it in to the mini dealership about the same time this was happening to get the power steering replaced and they said it needs an alighment. Not sure if the alignment can cause this but I'm not sure about the camber either as well situation.
Rafael Vasquez The hub position should not really change much in an alignment but it might indicate that something is not properly aligned due to some sort of frame damage.
I just bought a replacement axle and the spline is the same but it is a 1/4 inch longer would that mean its for a 6 speed I have a 5 speed I just want to know if this will still work for my mini??
I just replaced my CV boots. The steps are pretty much identical. Problem is, when I put everything back together, there is some play in my wheel. Looks like my tie rod end isn't getting tight. Is that a sign of the tie rod end going bad? Or do I need to impact it until it tightens up?
Even hammering the crap out of the lower ball and removing everything I cannot get the joint free from the bottom of the hub. Should I just keep hammering away at it and then it will eventually pop off?
+Patrick McNamara Did you use a cold chisel? Hammer alternating front and back side of between the hub and the ball joint ears. You need to hit really hard. You need at least a 3 or 4 pound hammer.
Thanks so much for all the Mod MINI Repair Videos. I have a Gen 1 R53 Mini. If my inner CV boots are torn and I have no other issues with the CVT joint. Should I replace the rubber boot only. Both are about the same work unless a split boot is used. Either way, can you send a link to the Boot or CV axle you would get? There are sooooo many CV boots and CV axles with pricing from $50-$500. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I had to replace my serpentine belt on my 2005 MCS, and when I was reinstalling the wheel well insert, I noticed my outer boot was torn. Can I just buy a replacement boot kit, or should I replace the entire axle? It is NOT making noise or anything, just making a mess with drips here and there in my garage.
Hello again. Where can I find a good factory service manual for my 2006 mini R50. I need a better one than I have. The one I have has pics and some info but not enough information for what I am looking for. I would like one with part numbers and torque values as well.
No manual is complete but this one is pretty good. For a lot of the bolts on the outside of the engine, torque values are not that important, as long as the bolt is snug and under some tension. Any mechanic develops a feel for the appropriate torque for such bolts. amzn.to/2zfMJKq Go to realoem.com for part numbers.
Hey Mod Mini great job as usual, thanks for your informative videos, been a big help on my current project R53 MCS. Not sure if you know but I have a split boot on the RH inner tripode joint. I plan to rebuild with a new boot and fresh grease after cleaning etc. The Haynes manual says on no account should the inner joint be separated and to get the new boot on you need to drift the outer CV joint off the shaft and slip the inner boot over the shaft from the outside end. As you showed in this video the tripode seems to come apart easily and to me that would be the best way to service the boot, clean and regrease etc. as long as you mark the shaft and the housing to ensure everything goes back in the same place I dont understand why Haynes say this...There is no problem with the outer CV joint or its boot as far as I can see or maybe I should just go ahead and service both now the axle is out. Cheers.
+Ian Rawley The outer half of the axle shaft is difficult to disassemble enough to slide off the boot. The inner joint comes right out. One of the joints has a nonstandard boot with indentations that need to be filled by a non-round boot. I don't remember which one. For the amount of effort, mess, and risk, I'd probably just replace the axle.
+Mod MINI Agreed but here in Australia there are no reasonably priced reconditioned parts available and shipping here from USA would be uneconomic. I ordered the boot repair kits from Pelican Parts and gave them and the axle to a local mechanical shop to strip,clean, grease and rebuild. Cost me $80USD all up so not too bad. They said the joints looked and felt OK so fingers crossed eh.
I've heard people say that you should only change OEM driveshafts, do you think theres any truth behind this? I have a vibration on hard acceleration which i'm putting down to the driveshaft. Recently fitted coilovers and by mistake dropped the hub without the shock and think i've damaged it in some way. Any advice would be great! thanks
Do you have $1000 to special order driveshafts from Germany? I think that is overkill they are not complicated and have a narrow center of mass. Vibration is usually from the wheel or tire or a worn suspension causing the strut assembly to bounce / vibrate when going down the road.
+Mod MINI I definitely don't want to spend that kind of money, just down went to have to replace it again in 100 miles. I'll have a good look over it all over the next few days before I order anything. Just wondered if you recommend any cheaper alternatives for oem? Thanks, great video btw. I'll be following it religiously when/if I do mine
Hey Mod MINI, I am replacing my right inner cv axle boot on my R53. The one problem is that I cannot separate the outer ball joint...I have tried whacking it with a hammer like you show in your video, I have tried at that a number of different places but to no avail. Do you have any suggestions on how to get this to come loose?
Josh Snyder Either use ball joint separator to separate the tapered ball joint from the control arm, or remove the 2 13 mm bolts and separate the ball joint from the knuckle. If it doesn't come free, use a cold chisel and heavy hammer to pound alternately from front and rear until it pops out of the knuckle. Significant force may be required.
Mod MINI this is where I'm stuck I can't get it to come loose after removing the 2 13mm bolts ...I've even had a 150lb person stand on a 2x4 to get leverage on it while I hammered...didn't budge
You are trying to pop the ball joint carrier out of the knuckle? You need to use a cold chisel ground down to a sharp wedge and hammer in between the carrier and the knuckle, alternating between front and back. You'll need a good 4 or 6lb hammer.
I have an 2005 mini S. My front vibrates bad while accelerating and doesn't when not. I rotated the tires and it doesn't vibrate as bad but still does. I checked wheel bearings and they are fine. Do you think bad cv axle is my problem. Is passenger side. I was told a bad tire but I rotated them so I don't think that's the problem. Any input would be grateful.
Back again! I should be pretty good at this by now after replacing the passenger side axle 3 times in 10 years... The outer CV joint exploded this time and I got a replacement and installed it. Problem is that I couldn't compare the new to the old for length due to the damage but the CV boot looks is collapsed (not the normal accordion look) like the joint itself is extended rather than compressed and I have the feeling that the new axle is shorter that the bad one. It's a Trak Motive from Foreign Auto Parts here in Dallas, who said that it was the correct part for our model. Are there different lengths for manual and automatic transmissions or is there some other reason the boot might be deformed after installation?
+Barry Kooda You can't really compare the length of an uninstalled CV axle to an installed axle. If you push on it, the length will change. The only really way is to put them both on the ground and compare how they look and what seem to be their min/max lengths. Automatic most likely has different axles, but i don't know if they are the same length or not.
+Mod MINI I guess I need to pick up a couple of ramps so I can see what it looks like with load. I can't see much of anything when it's on the ground, even using a mirror. I reached in through the top to see if I could feel the CV joint through the boot and can get a tiny bit of play but couldn't really tell. Thanks!
+Mod MINI The first two times, the failure was at the CV joint and I could lay them next to the replacements to compare them but this time it exploded at the spindle end and left chunks all down the road. It seems to be driving fine now but, if it's short, it probably won't last long.
My coolant is light brown with no foam on the lid and slightly low the car I has been sat for about a year could it just need a flush or repace any idea
Henry, I can't respond directly to your comment due to your google+ privacy settings. After removing the 13mm bolts, attack it with a big hammer and a cold chisel. Attack from a couple different angles. Eventually the top of the ball joint will separate from the hub. Either that or remove the bottom ball joint bolt (18mm or 21mm) and procure the ball joint separator tool to separate it from the control arm.
***** Ok, I will keep on trying...I now have everything including the wheel bearing removed, will it damage the ball joint to hammer/pry down on the top of it?
Hi there Mod Mini, I appreciate the videos you post on here. They are very helpful. I just did the oil pan gasket and o-ring by following your video. Thanks! I do have a question about this video. Recently the carrier bearing on my 2006 R53 Coooper 3 started to squeal. Is the carrier bearing replaceable or do I have to purchase the whole axle and replace it like this video? Please advise. Thank you! -Dom
I actually have a very serious issue I used this video to replace both sides and it worked out great except for the driver side I had the CV in but it wants to back out of the transmission a matter of fact I had to have it towed back to the garage because it just located from the transmission do you have any ideas how to fix this
It should not come out if it was fully pushed in on assembly. There is a circlip on the transmission end of the axle to hold in place. Maybe that is damaged or missing. I have heard about axles coming out on very lowered MINIs once in a while. Not a good idea to lower the car by more than an inch.
No no I haven't lowered it...I'm starting to think the amazon CV I bought is the wrong one I'll be going to Autozone in the next couple days to compare 3 side by side
Last night I pulled the CV out and slammed it in I heard the clip take and it would not come out drove it around the block being hard on it (right turns) and it was fine ...Today driving 12 miles fine hit a back road bump and it popped back out
give advice, I can not remove driver side axle ,cv-axle was stuck in the transmission that only tried,you have at least some idea how to remove it ??? Thanks
Maksym Kostyria You need a fairly long pry bar, somewhere around 2 feet long. When prying, pull the bar back smartly and it should pop. If you have trouble, try rotating about 90 degrees and then pry again.
So I have a 2006 R50 mini 5 speed manual. Whenever I turn the car left when its moving at like 30mph, it makes a grinding noise. Could the CV axle be the issue or would it be something else like the hub bearing? Do you also recommend changing both axles?
@@ModMINI I'll check the wheel for play and for any grinding noise when free rotating. I think it may be the wheel bearing as it doesn't really make any clicking noises.
Hey Mini Mod, I have a question. What simptoms did the vehicle had for you to determine that you had to replace the axle? My 2002 cooper S has a weird noise on the passenger side but I don't know whether is the bering or the axle.
Axle will make clicking sounds at low speed when turning sharply. Bearing will make a constant whining sound that increases with vehicle speed. It might be louder when turning but at high speeds. Bearings make almost no noise at very low speeds. Worn suspension components can cause noises as well (ball joints, control arm bushings, etc.)
Thank you very much for your prompt response. I think it will be the bearing because it is a constant whining noise, it gets worst with speed... thanks for your videos!
The axle would have to be disassembled, which is not easy to do and not easy to put back together - unless you want to use a split boot which would probably cause an imbalanced drive line. Sure you could just replace the boot if you do that and make sure no dirt got in there and the bearings are still good.
Hi Mod Mini -- I wanted to check with you on this repair -- I feel like when I watched this video about 5-6 months ago your Amazon link was to a remanufactured axle (Cardone maybe?) -- looks like this is going to a non-OEM Axle -- do you still recommend that product? Thanks.
Thanks you so much for posting these how to videos......I really appreciate you helping out the MINI community, you will never know how much time and money you have saved me, I salute you sir...Kind regards!
First, thanks for the video, it was very helpful. Much easier than following the Chilton Book.
Second, I have a few tips after spending the day replacing the inner CV boot on the passenger side of a manual 2003 mini.
The video comment to remove the fan as recommended is easy and very helpful. The first two axle mount bolts were accessible from under the car, and the third hidden bolt on my model was easily accessed through the wheel opening at top. The ball joint under the wheel disc did not come off at all by removing the two bolts shown in the video. The easy tap with a hammer and just fall off didn't happen. In fact even a flat chisel and sledge hammer couldn't break it free. Still not sure what the issue is there, but I resorted to taking off the ball joint, which proved to be a challenge as well. It would not budge.
RECOMMENDATION: Before you damage threads like I did with banging and such, go to to Advance Auto and rent a ball joint separator KIT. Advance will let you buy one they have in the back and then return it when you are finished. The rental is free. You do have to put the $120 on your credit card as a deposit, to ensure that you bring it back. NOTE: I wasted $39 on a different ball puller at NAPA that turned out to have too wide a gap and did not work. That was my fault not NAPA. Only the puller in the KIT with flexible joint hooks worked, and presto it came right off. This would have been good to know 4 hours ago, $39 ago, and before I screwed up the bolt threads. Never fear, I managed to fix the threads and re-bolt later.
RECOMMENDATION: When you pull the axle out the side of the transmission, be sure to lower the opposing side of the car. This will hopefully avoid transmission fluid from pouring out. NOTE: Again this would have saved me loosing several ounces. Also note, Advanced and several other auto stores I checked, do not carry suitable manual transmission fluid for the Mini. Also note: You have to add the fluid directly into the transmission while under the car, filling it up to the upper plug hole.
RECOMMENDATION: It is good to have the right tools. I didn't have ring clip pliers, so I used needle nose and a small screwdriver to pop it off. Plus a friend helped to hold the pin until I slid the screwdriver behind it. The right tool would have been better. Also I happen to have an old version of the clamp pliers. I suppose you could rig that as well, but the right pliers were much better plan.
RECOMMENDATION: When putting the axle back into place, climb under the car to direct the axle into place, and have a friend hold the other axle end from the wheel well. Also finger tighten ALL three axle mount bolts prior to tightening any of them down. And be sure to pay attention to the location of the screw holes as you line up the axle. This gave me a few minutes of profanity because I was assuming I had it lined up.
That is it, otherwise it was a little intimidating, but really actually a fairly easy job (if not for my snags).
Kevin Lovingsher
Thanks for the comments. Here are mine:
1. About 10% of the time the ball joints don't fall out. Maybe higher probability in places that use salt on icy roads. A cold chisel and a large hammer works, but it takes time. If one side is stuck, the other side is always stuck as well.
2. I recommend draining all or some transmission fluid, but tilting the car is an option as well. Note that the sway bar will be under tension - do not work on the suspension when one side of the car is on the ground - bolts will either bind or come apart with explosive force.
3. Absolutely - working with c-clips without the right tool can be dangerous.
4. Good tips. I can do this myself with practice, but it's nice to have a helping hand.
Thank you for taking the time to write this all down. The video was awesome and these tips are also helpful.
I’m new to the mini community and had to start working on my R53 as the are no shops that’ll touch it. Thank you for your very informative and thorough how-to videos, they save me a lot of time and money.
2004 mcs here... I wished my ball joints would have fell out like that after a few wacks. After wacking several times I just gave up and decide to take the nut off at the ball joint using a separating tool. I was successful at separating the parts but rookie here damaged the threads on the ball joint. Figured with the ball joint thread damaged - either chase the threads to repair OR replace. Decided to replace but still had a time removing the old ball joints. Finally took a trip down to harbor freight for the $10 air hammer and glad I did, I had the ball joints out in about 30-40 seconds top and taking it easy as well because that was the first time using an air hammer. Once out I think I found the issue... rust. Both ball joint and carrier had a ton of rust build up. Sanded the inside of the carrier to remove rust and now wait on new ball joints. Mainly posting this for folks that run into the same issue.
Yeah they can get like that over time. If you don't have an air hammer, a filed down cold chisel and a big hammer work as well. Put some anti-seize (the copper color stuff) on the ball joint when assembling to reduce chance of it happening again in future. But usually even in rust belt you can get the ball joints to pop out if you hit them with a big enough hammer...
2005 R53 over here. Just want to say that your videos have been an invaluable resource for me. I think the pov camera view really helps.
Mad Mini, I just want to say THANK YOU!!!!!! You sir, with your detailed videos have literally saved me many thousands of dollars in repairs on my 2003 Mini Cooper. Please keep up the great videos! You are Awesome !!
Mod Mini Thanks so much for these videos. After reading so many horror stories of money, money, money on Minis, these videos are ultimately what made me fell comfortable enough to pick one up. 03 R53 in the driveway, and I think for the most part I can do everything that needs to be done thanks to these videos
Thank you Mod mini, I used this video to replace the boot only. I caught it before it started clicking. I didn't have to remove the carrier bracket thank goodness. I also used your supercharger oil service video. You are very valuable to the community.
I've built every car I've ever owned (7 Air cooled VW's, and 2 Porsche's) since 1982. I bought my first and only new car - R53 brand new in 2004 with only 3 miles on the OD. After the warranty expired, the cost of repairs at the dealership were astronomical. Independent BMW mechanics were just as expensive, sloppy, cut corners and many times lied about "repairs" that weren't necessary. I often refer to my official Bentley manual, but having discovered your Mod Mini channel; it has been a revelation! Your video procedures are well documented and your verbal editorials are insightful, clear and poignant. You could have been the guy that wrote the book (note:compliment ahead)- "How To Keep Your VW Alive - For The Compleet Idiot"; (which was my bible when I first started building cars..). Thank you so much for sharing your expertise, professionalism and insight - Mod Mini is the only channel I look for before I begin to dive into any repairs on my 17 y/o MCS. Thank you sir- You have saved me a lot of time, money and frustration!!!
Thanks. I agree about the dealers misdiagnosing stuff. Charge you a pile of money and don't fix anything. It's worse than doctors in the US.
@@ModMINI - :-) = couldn't agree more.
Thanks so much for posting this video, just changed mine with no problems and only took 1:30 and I don't have that much skill. Take care. Dave.
You are absolutely awesome. I really enjoy working on my 2004 Mini Cooper S. Your videos are building my confidence in DIY on this vehicle, and saving me so much money. Thanks so very much!
Thank you! Used this to do my pass side axle today. Mine was torn in The same spot. I got away with not using a bench vice and my snap ring tool sucked, but it got done. I also put anti seize on my axle living in a snowy cold, salt using area. I have had them seize up on other cars. Great video again.
I've used this and many other videos from your channel for help with my R53, thank you.
Amateur Tips: Like others my ball joints did not come off with a few hammer hits. I had to shimmy the two pieces with blades until I could get my screwdriver and chisel in. Then wack, wack and off. I also needed a prybar to pull out the axle. I tried with my large screwdriver and I couldn't get enough leverage on jackstands. Your videos rock!
Another Gem for the ref library, thanks Kurt
I just changed my driver side cv axle! I couldn't have done it without your video! THANK YOU and KEEP ON POSTING!!!
Thanks to your video I was able to save around $500 by doing this install myself. Keep them coming :)
Great to find such a well done video. No time wasting at all, covered all the necessary details.
Thanks for making informative videos without unneeded drama.
Thanks for posting this video, I just changed my axle and I always watch your videos before I start working on anything on my Mini Cooper.
Another great video. I just finished this repair with the help of this video. Thanks for sharing these, it's greatly appreciated.
I had to do this to my R53 the other day while changing my struts. The bolt in the middle for the long axle was hard to get too. Had to remove the vac pump fan. Great video as always!
Vacuum pump fan?
Power steering sorry.
SquawkHawk Yeah, you can probably get to it with a socket + short extension by removing the power steering fan. I just took a shortcut here since I was lucky enough to have a super long 13mm wrench (that a previous mechanic had forgotten in this MINI's engine bay many years ago!)
Thank you for another great video even with the artistic blur. I always look forward to updates on your channel. Keep 'em coming!
BigSteveRealtor Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video, changing mine for the first time at 242k miles.
dave van goethem qn2k tllmzm. ni6
How's it go? 😅
I replaced both axles this weekend. Everything goes so well for you in these videos. Have you ever had these problems? The passenger side axle didnt want to come out of the hub took excessive hammer blows. Went in pretty easy except that the bearing bracket that was installed on the new axle didnt want to let the mounting bolts to align. Got them in but that was 30 minutes by it self. The Driver side was no problem at all in and s=out sweet.
+BigSteveRealtor Sometimes axles can get stuck to the hub in 'rust belt' areas (places that use salt on the roads). Penetrating oil can help. If using a hammer, thread the nut back on the shaft to avoid mushrooming the end of the strut. It can become larger than the hole and be hard to get out. The only time I have had problems with the bearing bracket is when the manufacturer puts the wrong bearing onto the axle. (R50 and R53 use different brackets)
thanks for these videos. I just bought a 2002 R50 and the fuel filter needed to be replaced and the CV joint. This car was towed 2 years ago and has been sitting. I just need a how to on swapping out the window mechanism on the passenger side and I be in pretty good shape.
Thanks for this video! Just finished changing the axles on my R53 and all went well. I changed the gearbox fluid while at it, and changed the ball joints as well.
I literally just got back from picking up my car from the shop from this exact repair; I look in my email and see a link to this video. Spoooky! If I had a proper shop, I would love to be able to do all this myself. But then again, they were late getting my car back to me, apparently the axle was really seized up.
After replacing axle ( 2004 Mini R53)I am now getting several warning lights..Tire pressure/ low brake pad warning/ stability control/ABS. I had replaced an axle previously, and did not get any warning lights. What would cause these lights, and how to erase them. Thanks..(all your videos have been most helpful)
Another Great Video!!!!! Keep it up.. this is one of the channels that i enjoy getting updates when new videos are posted.
Clint Rowland Thanks for watching! I've just now started a Twitter account for #ModMINI - subscribe to get notified of new video uploads! twitter.com/ModMINIRUclips
Using this video as reference to replace the transaxle seals, wish me luck
Highly useful and helpful video. Very good job. Made the work much easier. I had removed the axles for a transmission swap (5-speed to 6-speed) but the passenger-side axle from the donor vehicle only lasted about four thousand miles or so before it gave out. In hindsight, it would have been better had I simply replaced both axles when I swapped transmissions. Hindsight it seems is 20-20.
+Scott Cates I can't blame you. Axles are not supposed to fail, or maybe fail only once in the lifetime of the vehicle...
do you have a video of how to replace the seal or you think is better to just replace the hole axle
Axles are so cheap I just replace the whole thing. You have to remove the axle to replace the seal anyway.
Great video ! Thanks for explaining things as you did the operation. I had my 2005 mini cooper due to a torn boot and dry bearings soon after I purchased the vehicle but now have a noise that starts around 30 mph and gets worse the faster you go with a shimmy starting at 65. Is it possible that he didn't get the splines mated back in as far enough or damaged the bearing as it was reinstalled? If it was an older chevy or Ford, I would say it's a dry speedometer cable as the sound is so much like that. What noise would it make if the bearing is damaged ? Got any ideas? Regards , Ken
My car is not lowered, and I didn't have any problem with the previous axle.
I also replaced the clutch following your video guidelines, and I had some problems that I needed to loose motor mounts, could the motor be displaced to the left? but the transmission motor mount doesn't allow any adjusting.
What axle brand do you recommend for long lasting? my old axle body for the bearings is kind of triangular, while new ones are rounded and not allowing to set the clip for the carrier because diameter where you need to pass through with the clip is to big.
Thanks
Angel Amurri Probably you just had a normal mechanical failure then. The axles will allow for small amount of side to side motion. I recommend the remanufactured axles in the video description.
If you're doing the left side. This side has a "C clip". How does that affect the axle removal? And the reinstallation?
You videos are great. My son and i did the right side about a year ago. This video really helped.
+John Patton Just pop it out with a pry bar.
Hi just a quick question... Why do you have to replace the whole axle if it's just the inner cv boot that is ripped?
Thank you
If you can find the correct size boot and CV grease you could just replace those...
For most people, it's easier to replace the whole part to avoid having to do the work again in case of any damage due to loss of lubrication or water/dirt contamination. If it's already making noise, it's too late and you'll have to replace the whole axle.
Oh ok cool thanks for explaining.
Hi great video on how to do this, I did the short side axle or drivers side if you not in Europe and got everything in but doesn't run right. Doesn't feel like the axle is actually connecting or something. It dumped a lot of fluid when I pulled it out could the be my issue?
Very nice walk through of your process. However I'm wondering why not just replace, and repack the inner boot? A kit will cost you around $25 with everything you will need, and you don't have to mess around with carrier bearing.. Your tri-pod roller bearings came out easy from the flange, all you would need is some type of puller around 5ton to get the tri-pod off the splins if it's really on there, it has a clip holding it in place like the larger one you took off the carrier bearing but smaller.. Was the joint, roller bearing on the tri-pod damaged for replacing the entire axle?
if the joint is already clicking then there's no saving it, there is also the risk of repacking it with a new boot that you get some dirt in the joint ruining it anyways to where you need a new axle, should just start with the axle unless you ripped the boot yourself on accident and you know no dirt got into it
Great video! Doing mine next week. Why not put loctite on main bolt when reinstalling? It seems like that would make sense, is there a reason why I shouldn’t use it?
On the 32mm nut? Not needed because you're going to dent the lock ring of the bolt in when done tightening. Not sure I've ever seen Loctite ever used on any axle bolt.
Hi, I was able to do everything in the video except the part of inserting the axle back. It doesn't want to go all the way in, I’ve tried to wiggle it and us force but it didn't go. it needs to enter less than 1” to get all the way in.
Thanks for your videos!!
at 8:07 what is that piece you tap out I didn't have it on my 04 r53 I had a leaking seal and replaced it with a new one and it's still leaking the same but I noticed I don't have that piece you're tapping off and don't know if that would actually make a difference
Dust shield. Without it the seal could get damaged by foreign objects.
I've seen a few instances where axle still leaks even after replacing the seal, even though axle seal surface seems ok. I don't know why but replacing the axle stops the leak.
I replaced the seal and after a drive it was leaking. I don't really want to buy a shaft since I want to just fix the small stuff on it and part ways
do you know where I can get that dust shield at?
Other than from another old axle? No.
Thanks for the video! How did you know to replace the whole axle and not just the boot? The driverside boot on mine is leaking
I replace the whole axle in this video??
Hi mod MINI
Your video is awesome, but my question is if you have some news about right cv axle popping out, I'm having the same problem as Rafael Vasquez.
My replacements were from O'Reilly, should I buy something different?
Thanks
It seems to be an issue affecting significantly lowered cars. O'Reilly is probably fine but may or may not last as long as other brands.
Thank you. I saw your video, and did it myself.
For the top bolt on the carrier bearing, I was able to go through the wheel well very easily.
Followed these directions pretty precisely, swapped the left side axle out, drove the car around the block, and the left axle separated at the inner joint just as I pulled back in the driveway. Everything was tight, this is the third axle it's gone through in a month, previous two a mechanic installed. Any idea what may be going on? Something is causing these to break. Car is lowered an inch, I don't think that should be enough to cause issue though?
With your knowledge of Mini's. would you say that a 2008 Mini Cooper Automatic is a safer car to purchase...given the power steering pump issues and the CVT transmission problems. I am trying to get as much information before I actually make the purchase. I am looking to understand the issues to be aware of. Thank you !!!
The CVT transmission is not known for its reliability - the 2008 MINI is probably the more reliable of the two.
Thanks for the video, very helpful! I'm about to be doing this on an '03 Mini.
+Oby1Kenobi Good luck, should be pretty easy unless rust happened.
I love you too honey
Nice video;pretty clear explanation 👍
My inner boot got tore by the inner ball joint bolt sticking right up (woops) so I'd only jacked up 1 side. Not disconnected the anti roll bar or tie rod end... I'm replacing the Bush using in car cut out method. Question is (should I jack it up evenly and remove the tie rod steering then remove the axle) can I replace the torn boot and put back in? Or new axel a better move? Car is 2006 55k r53. Rusty sub frame...
hey,fantastic stuff. was wondering, I have what feels like a front wheel vibration only under acceleration. do i need to swap out my cv axle. did motor mounts already, not it.
+Liam Marx could be axles if car is lowered or worn struts.
Hi there. I am replacing the driver side axle. What C clip are you refering too. All i see is that on the outside axle shaft there was a ring that was rusted on to it and the new one does not have this ring.
The ring on the end of the axle that goes into the transmission. There is a groove in which the ring sits. If the new one has no ring, you might need to transfer it over from the old axle. Or look in the box.
I found out the hard way that the 2003 R50 5 speed transmission fill plug is significantly above the axel seal opening and therefore, 1-1/2 quart of gear oil poured out onto my garage floor when I popped the driver’s side axel out. Note to self - drain the gear case first!
I hear a click noise when I first accelerate from the front right tire. Would it be because of the cv axle?
Thank you
Help please! I need to install the CV and axle on my 2002 Mini R50. the short one went on pretty easy, but the long one seems to be hitting a solid wall. I've twisted and wrestled for a couple hours. what gives? Any consultation/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. PS I do not have the luxury of paying someone else and I do not have a garage. I did check and the splines and everything match the one I pulled off. Praying for an answer. 🙏
Great video, when I pulled the axle out it dumped a lot of transmission fluid out compared to what I saw in your video and others. I'm taking the opportunity to change the fluid but should it be cause for concern?
If the car was not level, more fluid will come out of the place where the axles go.
I had only jacked up the front, and it turned out I had the passenger side down a notch compared to driver, so that was probably it. Thanks again for all your videos.
My 05 r50 is making a really loud whining noise that increases with speed regardless of gear. It doesn’t get too bad until I get to highway speed (ie 55-75 mph). I changed the gearbox oil, but the noise is still there. I suspect it’s a bad bearing in the gearbox, but could it be something in the axles like a bearing?
Thanks for the awesome videos. They have been very helpful!
have you attempted to take the old shaft apart?
my friend has a leaky inner joint as wondering if I could knock the outer joint off and then slide the new boots on?
thanks Mini guru
+Warwick Dean A little. One of the two joints uses a special type of boot with baffles. The other half requires removing a c-clip and knocking the joint off the axle. Given the trouble, and possible damage to the axle, I'd prefer to just get a new axle, but yes, it is technically possible to slide on a new boot.
+Mod MINI thanks for the reply, hmm I would to but my friend is a tight git. It's his inner cv boot, I was going to replace by removing the outer joint however if they require a special boot I guess theyr not going to be cheap like the universal type so il tell him to get a complete axle and stop moaning lol
Awesome video! Thank you for making it. I have to do this job and this video is so helpful.
Is it possible to purchase inner joint, so I can rebuilt the axel? Also, is it possible to make driver side work on the passenger side?
An axle shop can probably repair an axle, but it will be likely cheaper to replace with an aftermarket part. Left/right Axles are not reversible.
@Mod MINI There is some seals at the end of the axle (gearbox side). I presume I need to follow this tutorial and before replace the axles, replace the seals. Is there any need to special tools? Can we do it quite easily? Thanks for all your vids, thanks to these, I'm not afraid anymore to repair by myself!
Does the passenger axle slide all the way into the transmission? After switching the carrier and putting it on as far as it will go, the holes don't line up if the axle is put in all the way. If I slide it out a little then it'll line up. I can't move the carrier any more on to the bearing..
Line up the carrier bearing, not the axle.
The blurry camera work added some much needed romance to the proceedings.
😂
I have an R56. Should I sell it for a similar R53? These seem to be much more popular with tuners.
acykat2069 Test drive one and see which you like more :-)
Have an advisory for CV a joint gaiter. Does it mean one needs to place the boot cover ? And to do that the whole CV joint need to be pulled out ? If yes, then try getting away with replacing the boot or might just replace the full assembly ? Left and right gaiters. Thanks.
+SuperDexterization +SuperDexterization Axles are so cheap, I always just replace the whole axle, since it requires removing the whole thing to replace a boot anyway. What is a gaiter?
+Mod MINI I think they call it the gaiter in UK. says front cv joint gaiter deteriorated but preventing ingress. So I am guessing it's the boot. The most I have done on suspension of a car (not a mini) is control arms and shocks and endlinks. Is this job more involved than those? How much of labour cost you think it will be ? Trying to get a picture of time spent if I do it myself vs costs if done by a garage. Thanks.
+SuperDexterization No more difficult than a control arm. I show basically everything in the video. Shop will charge 2 hours maybe
Hi there, trying to order the correct size axles for my manual r53. The seal surface diameter is in question. What size should those be? I'm hearing I can get 40mm for the driver side (left) and 35mm for the passenger side (right). Is this correct? I was told the right side should be 31mm? Thanks for any help
I would like to install a 6 speed manual transmission in 2005 Mini Cooper. I would like to know if the cooper and the cooper S have the same cv axles so I know if a 6 spd can be installed into a regular cooper? thanks
Different axles, different clutch, different hydraulics. The flywheel weights are different as well which may make the car hard to drive without revving up the engine when coming off a complete stop. I can't say I'd recommend it.
Will left and right be flipped on a right hand drive, or will it just be the same as yours shown? Cheers.
Thank you for this channel. Mini Cooper for the win!
hi
I fallow you, and enjoy your videos, they are very helpful. I just replaced my driver side cv axle on my r53 6spd manual and I'm having trouble with the axle popping out when I start driving. any idea what could be causing this to happen?
any help would be appreciated. I'm on my third axle and I have no idea what to do, they keep sliding out.😞
please help
thank you
Circlip not fully engaged, loose/faulty circlip, substandard replacement part, or significantly lowered MINI can all cause this.
Hey mod mini, I have a question if you can please answer it. Recently like almost like 1 month ago I replaced my right axle like this video cause the bearings were bad, couple days later the new axle popped out of the halfshaft and destroyed all the bearings, so I replaced. 4 more axles later it keeps popping out of the halfshaft when I go on a dip mostly :( any help or info? I replaced my strut mounts and no luck?
That's very odd. Is it the left or right axle? Is the axle spline popping out of the transmission or is the CV joint itself separating? I can't imagine any change in suspension geometry so great that it would cause this kind of behavior and the car is still drivable. The axles are designed to be able to grow longer/shorter in response to changes in suspension geometry (strut/control arm angle).
Its the passenger side axle. The half shaft is fine. Just where the CV axle joins the half shaft to the wheel itself pops out of the half shaft when I hit a dip and destroys all the bearings when It tries to go back in. Any suggestions what can cause this?
Rafael Vasquez Is your car significantly lowered or has a ton of positive camber? It could be causing the axle to extend beyond its mechanical limits, allowing the bearings to fall out of the CV cup. Or has the car been in an accident??
I wouldn't say it's lowered cause of stock suspension and I recently took it in to the mini dealership about the same time this was happening to get the power steering replaced and they said it needs an alighment. Not sure if the alignment can cause this but I'm not sure about the camber either as well situation.
Rafael Vasquez The hub position should not really change much in an alignment but it might indicate that something is not properly aligned due to some sort of frame damage.
I just bought a replacement axle and the spline is the same but it is a 1/4 inch longer would that mean its for a 6 speed I have a 5 speed I just want to know if this will still work for my mini??
I just replaced my CV boots. The steps are pretty much identical. Problem is, when I put everything back together, there is some play in my wheel. Looks like my tie rod end isn't getting tight. Is that a sign of the tie rod end going bad? Or do I need to impact it until it tightens up?
Either it is going bad or you didn't tighten it enough.
Question. Should you grease axle before reinstalling???
Even hammering the crap out of the lower ball and removing everything I cannot get the joint free from the bottom of the hub. Should I just keep hammering away at it and then it will eventually pop off?
+Patrick McNamara Did you use a cold chisel? Hammer alternating front and back side of between the hub and the ball joint ears. You need to hit really hard. You need at least a 3 or 4 pound hammer.
+Mod MINI I had to take a break. I'll be finishing it up tomorrow. All I need is the cv's out to get the motor out.
Thanks so much for all the Mod MINI Repair Videos. I have a Gen 1 R53 Mini. If my inner CV boots are torn and I have no other issues with the CVT joint. Should I replace the rubber boot only. Both are about the same work unless a split boot is used. Either way, can you send a link to the Boot or CV axle you would get? There are sooooo many CV boots and CV axles with pricing from $50-$500. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Which transmission
manual transmission
amzn.to/2jSI0Xd
I had to replace my serpentine belt on my 2005 MCS, and when I was reinstalling the wheel well insert, I noticed my outer boot was torn. Can I just buy a replacement boot kit, or should I replace the entire axle? It is NOT making noise or anything, just making a mess with drips here and there in my garage.
Hello again. Where can I find a good factory service manual for my 2006 mini R50. I need a better one than I have. The one I have has pics and some info but not enough information for what I am looking for. I would like one with part numbers and torque values as well.
No manual is complete but this one is pretty good. For a lot of the bolts on the outside of the engine, torque values are not that important, as long as the bolt is snug and under some tension. Any mechanic develops a feel for the appropriate torque for such bolts. amzn.to/2zfMJKq Go to realoem.com for part numbers.
Awesome video as always!
Can the outer CV boot (the hub side) be changed without pulling out the CV joint assembly ? Thanks.
+SuperDexterization No, it's captive.
Hey Mod Mini great job as usual, thanks for your informative videos, been a big help on my current project R53 MCS. Not sure if you know but I have a split boot on the RH inner tripode joint. I plan to rebuild with a new boot and fresh grease after cleaning etc. The Haynes manual says on no account should the inner joint be separated and to get the new boot on you need to drift the outer CV joint off the shaft and slip the inner boot over the shaft from the outside end. As you showed in this video the tripode seems to come apart easily and to me that would be the best way to service the boot, clean and regrease etc. as long as you mark the shaft and the housing to ensure everything goes back in the same place I dont understand why Haynes say this...There is no problem with the outer CV joint or its boot as far as I can see or maybe I should just go ahead and service both now the axle is out. Cheers.
+Ian Rawley The outer half of the axle shaft is difficult to disassemble enough to slide off the boot. The inner joint comes right out. One of the joints has a nonstandard boot with indentations that need to be filled by a non-round boot. I don't remember which one. For the amount of effort, mess, and risk, I'd probably just replace the axle.
+Mod MINI Agreed but here in Australia there are no reasonably priced reconditioned parts available and shipping here from USA would be uneconomic. I ordered the boot repair kits from Pelican Parts and gave them and the axle to a local mechanical shop to strip,clean, grease and rebuild. Cost me $80USD all up so not too bad. They said the joints looked and felt OK so fingers crossed eh.
I've heard people say that you should only change OEM driveshafts, do you think theres any truth behind this?
I have a vibration on hard acceleration which i'm putting down to the driveshaft. Recently fitted coilovers and by mistake dropped the hub without the shock and think i've damaged it in some way. Any advice would be great!
thanks
Do you have $1000 to special order driveshafts from Germany? I think that is overkill they are not complicated and have a narrow center of mass. Vibration is usually from the wheel or tire or a worn suspension causing the strut assembly to bounce / vibrate when going down the road.
+Mod MINI I definitely don't want to spend that kind of money, just down went to have to replace it again in 100 miles. I'll have a good look over it all over the next few days before I order anything. Just wondered if you recommend any cheaper alternatives for oem?
Thanks, great video btw.
I'll be following it religiously when/if I do mine
Hey Mod MINI, I am replacing my right inner cv axle boot on my R53. The one problem is that I cannot separate the outer ball joint...I have tried whacking it with a hammer like you show in your video, I have tried at that a number of different places but to no avail. Do you have any suggestions on how to get this to come loose?
Any tricks for separating the ball joint?
Josh Snyder Either use ball joint separator to separate the tapered ball joint from the control arm, or remove the 2 13 mm bolts and separate the ball joint from the knuckle. If it doesn't come free, use a cold chisel and heavy hammer to pound alternately from front and rear until it pops out of the knuckle. Significant force may be required.
Mod MINI this is where I'm stuck I can't get it to come loose after removing the 2 13mm bolts ...I've even had a 150lb person stand on a 2x4 to get leverage on it while I hammered...didn't budge
You are trying to pop the ball joint carrier out of the knuckle? You need to use a cold chisel ground down to a sharp wedge and hammer in between the carrier and the knuckle, alternating between front and back. You'll need a good 4 or 6lb hammer.
I'll give that a shot almost to the l point to swap out the ball joint
Also my front end link is not going in place anymore. It sits higher after i reinstalled everything. Not sure why this is.
How much will it cost to fit cv joint it's the driver side inner clip com off can't get new one on it will I have to change the whole
I think there is a link to buy an axle in the video description.
I have an 2005 mini S. My front vibrates bad while accelerating and doesn't when not. I rotated the tires and it doesn't vibrate as bad but still does. I checked wheel bearings and they are fine. Do you think bad cv axle is my problem. Is passenger side. I was told a bad tire but I rotated them so I don't think that's the problem. Any input would be grateful.
Worn shocks or control arm bushings.
Mod MINI thanks I'll check them out.
Back again!
I should be pretty good at this by now after replacing the passenger side axle 3 times in 10 years...
The outer CV joint exploded this time and I got a replacement and installed it. Problem is that I couldn't compare the new to the old for length due to the damage but the CV boot looks is collapsed (not the normal accordion look) like the joint itself is extended rather than compressed and I have the feeling that the new axle is shorter that the bad one. It's a Trak Motive from Foreign Auto Parts here in Dallas, who said that it was the correct part for our model. Are there different lengths for manual and automatic transmissions or is there some other reason the boot might be deformed after installation?
+Barry Kooda You can't really compare the length of an uninstalled CV axle to an installed axle. If you push on it, the length will change. The only really way is to put them both on the ground and compare how they look and what seem to be their min/max lengths. Automatic most likely has different axles, but i don't know if they are the same length or not.
+Mod MINI
I guess I need to pick up a couple of ramps so I can see what it looks like with load. I can't see much of anything when it's on the ground, even using a mirror. I reached in through the top to see if I could feel the CV joint through the boot and can get a tiny bit of play but couldn't really tell.
Thanks!
+Barry Kooda As I mentioned above - you really need to pull the axle to compare them.
+Mod MINI The first two times, the failure was at the CV joint and I could lay them next to the replacements to compare them but this time it exploded at the spindle end and left chunks all down the road. It seems to be driving fine now but, if it's short, it probably won't last long.
+Barry Kooda if you are blowing axles multiple times, is it because your car is lowered a lot? That can cause axle binding.
My coolant is light brown with no foam on the lid and slightly low the car I has been sat for about a year could it just need a flush or repace any idea
Rust. Flush it.
Henry, I can't respond directly to your comment due to your google+ privacy settings. After removing the 13mm bolts, attack it with a big hammer and a cold chisel. Attack from a couple different angles. Eventually the top of the ball joint will separate from the hub. Either that or remove the bottom ball joint bolt (18mm or 21mm) and procure the ball joint separator tool to separate it from the control arm.
***** Ok, I will keep on trying...I now have everything including the wheel bearing removed, will it damage the ball joint to hammer/pry down on the top of it?
Henry Hertzler I would put the wheel bearing back.
***** Ok, thanks a lot for the advice.
+Mod MINI Do a drive side next!
Hi there Mod Mini, I appreciate the videos you post on here. They are very helpful. I just did the oil pan gasket and o-ring by following your video. Thanks!
I do have a question about this video. Recently the carrier bearing on my 2006 R53 Coooper 3 started to squeal. Is the carrier bearing replaceable or do I have to purchase the whole axle and replace it like this video? Please advise.
Thank you!
-Dom
+Dominique Santos The carrier bearing is pressed onto the axle.
My 2005 mini Cooper s goes to right wen driving and I hear some knocks is it the CV axle??
I'd have to see the car to know.
I actually have a very serious issue I used this video to replace both sides and it worked out great except for the driver side I had the CV in but it wants to back out of the transmission a matter of fact I had to have it towed back to the garage because it just located from the transmission do you have any ideas how to fix this
dislocated from the transmission
I can pull and push on the CV and it just comes right out really easy and also back in really easy
It should not come out if it was fully pushed in on assembly. There is a circlip on the transmission end of the axle to hold in place. Maybe that is damaged or missing. I have heard about axles coming out on very lowered MINIs once in a while. Not a good idea to lower the car by more than an inch.
No no I haven't lowered it...I'm starting to think the amazon CV I bought is the wrong one I'll be going to Autozone in the next couple days to compare 3 side by side
Last night I pulled the CV out and slammed it in I heard the clip take and it would not come out drove it around the block being hard on it (right turns) and it was fine ...Today driving 12 miles fine hit a back road bump and it popped back out
give advice, I can not remove driver side axle ,cv-axle was stuck in the transmission that only tried,you have at least some idea how to remove it ???
Thanks
Maksym Kostyria You need a fairly long pry bar, somewhere around 2 feet long. When prying, pull the bar back smartly and it should pop. If you have trouble, try rotating about 90 degrees and then pry again.
So I have a 2006 R50 mini 5 speed manual. Whenever I turn the car left when its moving at like 30mph, it makes a grinding noise. Could the CV axle be the issue or would it be something else like the hub bearing? Do you also recommend changing both axles?
Would have to see the car to know for sure. Could be either. Not sure if there is benefit to changing axle before failure unless the boot looks tired.
@@ModMINI I'll check the wheel for play and for any grinding noise when free rotating. I think it may be the wheel bearing as it doesn't really make any clicking noises.
Hey Mini Mod, I have a question. What simptoms did the vehicle had for you to determine that you had to replace the axle? My 2002 cooper S has a weird noise on the passenger side but I don't know whether is the bering or the axle.
Axle will make clicking sounds at low speed when turning sharply. Bearing will make a constant whining sound that increases with vehicle speed. It might be louder when turning but at high speeds. Bearings make almost no noise at very low speeds. Worn suspension components can cause noises as well (ball joints, control arm bushings, etc.)
Thank you very much for your prompt response. I think it will be the bearing because it is a constant whining noise, it gets worst with speed... thanks for your videos!
If the CV boot is just torn can't you just replace the boot and call it a day? Or is that not advised?
The axle would have to be disassembled, which is not easy to do and not easy to put back together - unless you want to use a split boot which would probably cause an imbalanced drive line. Sure you could just replace the boot if you do that and make sure no dirt got in there and the bearings are still good.
Hi Mod Mini -- I wanted to check with you on this repair -- I feel like when I watched this video about 5-6 months ago your Amazon link was to a remanufactured axle (Cardone maybe?) -- looks like this is going to a non-OEM Axle -- do you still recommend that product?
Thanks.
I've installed several axles and have not had problems. . .
Hi modmini! I always appreciated your video! I'm just wondering that when you took off the disk, what size a hex is. 32? 33?
김재헌 32mm bolt for the axle bolt. Torx 50 for the rotor set screw.