I’m glad you backed yourself up with not 100% on the voltage pen but a multimeter isn’t a HSE GS38 approved tester to confirm the electricity is dead - should be using a 2 pole voltage indicator or test lamp and a known source such as a proving unit
Thanks for your input. I'll be honest, I knew this but I'm dyslexic and mixed up the wording on the video. I'll make sure on the next video I use the correct terminology.
Thank you for the video. Does DT4 come with a timer as I find it turning on automatically at night time. May I ask for a video of the other function of DT4 please? Their user manual is not easy to be read.
From the awful instruction leaflet, it does have other options - Eco, on, off and override (presumably this is if you just want to up the temperature temporarily). If you can show how to use those we would appreciate it! Thx @@MWPHS
After watching your excellent video I felt confident that I could tackle replacing our two old Danfoss RET230P thermostats and was expecting it to be straightforward but alas not!! As advised, I made sure that the Danfoss thermostats were working properly. On removing the thermostat cover I established that the wiring to the Danfoss was as follows; Neutral/Blue to Neutral connector; Live/Brown to the Live connector; a short red wire from the Live connector to the COM connector and the Earth was wired to the ON connector. On the DT4 I have made safe the Neutral, put the Earth to the B connector and put the Live to the A connector. The thermostat doesn't turn the boiler on or off. Fortunately, I didn't change both thermostats so at least we still have some central heating. Grateful for any advice how to resolve this issue. I do have a photo of the Danfoss wiring but I don't know how to upload it to here.
Ok, so firstly whoever wired the thermostat originally used the CPC (Earth) which is really not advised. If it was connected to the ON terminal and you have done what you have said in the description then it should work (I looked at the RET230P diagram). Are you sure the wires are in the terminals correctly and you don’t have a wire break? If you are really not sure, get a qualified electrical professional to come and have a look. 👍🏻
Can the DT6 be hardwired in to replace an existing dial type thermostat without having to use the receiver box? It seems that there is no option to purchase it without the receiver
A link to buy the DT4 wired thermostat is in the video description. In any case you can buy it here… White - mwphs.co.uk/product/honeywell-home-dt4-white-wired-tpi-thermostat-dt40wt20/ Grey - mwphs.co.uk/product/honeywell-home-dt4-grey-wired-tpi-thermostat-dt40gt21/ Black - mwphs.co.uk/product/honeywell-home-dt4-black-wired-tpi-thermostat-dt40bt22/
@ thanks. Are there any options for a stat that you can turn on/off via WiFi, if hard wired, without the receiver/relay? Basically looking to be able to turn heating on when not home
Great video. I have a dratec combistat which needs replacing with digital. Presume it would be very similar process. Do you know if the Drayton digistat or honeywell stats would be similar fitting as well?
Any wired and battery operated thermostat (programmable or non-programmable) would be similar to this to fit, but I cannot comment if they would be the same.
Thanks for the informative video. I've got a new installation in progress, and want to avoid a smart/wireless system, and prefer the simplicity of these over the programmable thermostats. I do, however, still want the ability to programme them. If i wanted the bathrooms and living area to be on during the day, but not the bedrooms, does that mean that I'd need multiple external programmers, one for each area?
These are simply non-programmable thermostats, so no provision for any time control. If you want time control, maybe consider another battery operated programmable wired thermostat like the Drayton Digistat 2290B - mwphs.co.uk/product/drayton-digistat-wired-programmable-thermostat-2290b/
Hi , thanks for the video. I have a basic vented boiler , is the wiring same as a combi . I.e - switched live in port b , permanent live port A . Asking this as the wiring instructions for dt4 say permanent live not required. Thanks
All wired thermostats do a very similar thing. In the case of the DT4, a permanent live is not required to power the DT4 as it is battery powered, but as per the video something will be required to provide the switching, be that volt free or a 230v supply switching back to the wiring centre or the boiler. If you are in any way unsure, get a competent person to do the works for you.
Very clear video. Would the DT4R be a good replacement for the Sunvic TLX 2259. In particular would the backplate of the 2259 accomodate the DT4R without needing to drill new holes etc? I have a conventional boiler (Gloworm)? Many thanks.
Hi, looking at the Sunvic TLX 2259 the shape looks like it fits a standard UK backplate, so should have similar fixing holes to the DT4. Please note that the DT4R is the wireless version, the product in the video is a DT4 (mwphs.co.uk/product/honeywell-home-dt4-white-wired-tpi-thermostat-dt40wt20/).
The DT4 is designed for the display to turn off. You can fit this if you want an efficient improvement and a display (but it’s a bit uglier)… 👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻 mwphs.co.uk/product/pro-wired-digital-room-thermostat/
Hi, I do hope that you can help. I have just watched how to remove a Honeywell clicky thermostat and the video was 100% accurate. It shows/I have red, yellow and blue wires powering it . The rest of the house setup is exactly as you show … I have the Honeywell timer for hot water/heating. Can I fit the thermostat you suggest and is so what are the wiring positions? Thanks in advance.
The DT4 can replace any existing non-programmable thermostat. Unfortunately, I can only comment about the thermostat we used in the video (which is also the equivalent to a Honeywell T6360 clicky stat). The wires that are in wiring terminals 1 & 3 on the existing thermostat, are the live and switched live wires. You use these wire (and these wires only) in the DT4 switching terminals, the rest of the wires are made safe as I've shown. If you need any technical support with the DT4 product, please contact Resideo on 0300 130 1299. Thanks for watching the video.
Will this room thermostat be good to replace my dirty old potterton prt100 thermostat? I have red, black, yellow and earth into my old thermostat. Thanks
I have a glow worm easicom. It has the pin programmer on the bolier itself, i have a thermostat in my living room. Can i replace it with the one in the video? Thanks
Hi , ive tried replacing my mams thermostatt with this , she had a danfoss programmer with statt aswell , done exactly what you did in the video and it doesn't do anything , doesn't fire up when statt is turned right up, any help is appreciated , thank you
The obvious question is what is the programmer schedules set to? If the programmer is in an ‘OFF’ period, it won’t matter what you set the thermostat to, it won’t come on. The thermostat has to have a demand and the programmer must be in an ‘ON’ period for the boiler to come on. 👍🏻
I've read that this Honeywell DT4 model constantly keeps turning the boiler on on off. Is is a good replacement for the old style stat or should I look to replace it with th DT2? Thanks for any help offered.
The DT4 is a Class IV TPI thermostat so like all TPI thermostats will turn the boiler on and off to maintain the correct temperature in the home. A clicky round thermostat is usually Class I thermostat which also turns the boiler on and off but badly controls temperature which wastes money.
Without knowing exactly what thermostat you have I can only say that it should be possible, but you would need, live, neutral, switched live and earth at the existing thermostat.
Hi mate, I currently have a mechanical dial thermostat. It has 3 wires, a red and blue that are attached and a yellow wire that isn’t attached. What is the yellow wire for?
If it the heating turns on or off when you operate the current thermostat (with the two wires that are attached), then those two wires will work with the new thermostat too.
i have a danfoss analog room thermostat thats wired with a red live blue neutral and a red jumper wire from the live to the comms on the thermostat. will this honeywll dt4 work with this wire set up
Hello, I live in UK and I have gas combi boiler downstairs with direct heating no water tank, I have 1 thermostat down in living room and other one upstairs in master bedroom both old clicky ones, would this thermostat suit me to swap simply both old ones? thank you
Also one more question, at the end you've set the programer onto continuous mode so do I leave it like that ? cause I have 3 different section where I set the time when the boiler turns on during the day. thx
Hi, yes the DT4 wired thermostats (links in video description) are suitable for replacing any clicky thermostat. Once you have completed the testing shown in the video, you would return the programmer back to the normal operation mode (auto or twice).
Not working for me. Same old thermostat (THR830T), same wiring, connecting Live to A and Live out (load) to B but nothing is happening. Not sure if it matters that I have a zone valve on the system, not sure if wiring is different in that case, but I have a programming unit similar like in this video, it is on continuous on but no luck 😢
@@MWPHS I made it work, but it is weird. On the old thermometer, on your video on number 2 you have blue neutral wire and I have blue and black together on 2, and the new one is working ONLY when those two (blue and black) have contact... So I connected them and isolated them with tape and it's working. No idea why...
@@MWPHS In short, I inherited electric underfloor heating, but no idea if it is working. The old one is a honeywell t6360 and I would like to replace it but no idea with what and what fuse to use on it.
My instructions in the box were completely wrong, how ever there was a small sticker with a diagram on the back of DT4 which said use live, neutral and switch live. The sticker was right
I haven’t measured the sound of it using a decibel meter. But it isn’t what I would say as loud? Everyone is different though and what doesn’t annoy me might annoy someone else.
@@MWPHS thanks - I went ahead and swapped them out and the DT4 is much quieter, but more importantly doesn’t click all the time for no reason like the others! Cheers
I think you slightly over simplified the wiring. Because, as we know, when lots of plumbers did their own wiring they used twin & earth & used the earth as the switched live. After all, the earth post on most ( not all) stats is just somewhere to tidy the wiring. I,m not nit - picking, but it is still very common in older properties.
I can only show how it should have been done in accordance with manufacturer’s wiring guides. How it has been done in real life or different properties (not in accordance to guides or regulations) is not something I can or even want to control. Second guessing what others do would mean no-one would ever do any video guides. 😊
One of the only videos that shows each step without skipping the most important bits. And most importantly no cheeky chappy nonsense accent.
Thanks for the kind feedback! 👍🏻
I’m glad you backed yourself up with not 100% on the voltage pen but a multimeter isn’t a HSE GS38 approved tester to confirm the electricity is dead - should be using a 2 pole voltage indicator or test lamp and a known source such as a proving unit
Thanks for your input. I'll be honest, I knew this but I'm dyslexic and mixed up the wording on the video. I'll make sure on the next video I use the correct terminology.
Very helpful and well explained. Im fitting mine tomorrow now I’ve seen this video. Thank you.
Brilliant. Thank you, all went exactly as you described. 10/10
No problem… Thanks for commenting! 👍🏻
Thank you for the video. Does DT4 come with a timer as I find it turning on automatically at night time. May I ask for a video of the other function of DT4 please? Their user manual is not easy to be read.
The DT4 is simply a room thermostat and does not have the capability to be programmed, hence it is shown in the video using an external programmer.
From the awful instruction leaflet, it does have other options - Eco, on, off and override (presumably this is if you just want to up the temperature temporarily). If you can show how to use those we would appreciate it! Thx @@MWPHS
After watching your excellent video I felt confident that I could tackle replacing our two old Danfoss RET230P thermostats and was expecting it to be straightforward but alas not!! As advised, I made sure that the Danfoss thermostats were working properly.
On removing the thermostat cover I established that the wiring to the Danfoss was as follows; Neutral/Blue to Neutral connector; Live/Brown to the Live connector; a short red wire from the Live connector to the COM connector and the Earth was wired to the ON connector.
On the DT4 I have made safe the Neutral, put the Earth to the B connector and put the Live to the A connector. The thermostat doesn't turn the boiler on or off. Fortunately, I didn't change both thermostats so at least we still have some central heating.
Grateful for any advice how to resolve this issue. I do have a photo of the Danfoss wiring but I don't know how to upload it to here.
Ok, so firstly whoever wired the thermostat originally used the CPC (Earth) which is really not advised. If it was connected to the ON terminal and you have done what you have said in the description then it should work (I looked at the RET230P diagram). Are you sure the wires are in the terminals correctly and you don’t have a wire break? If you are really not sure, get a qualified electrical professional to come and have a look. 👍🏻
Can the DT6 be hardwired in to replace an existing dial type thermostat without having to use the receiver box? It seems that there is no option to purchase it without the receiver
A link to buy the DT4 wired thermostat is in the video description.
In any case you can buy it here…
White - mwphs.co.uk/product/honeywell-home-dt4-white-wired-tpi-thermostat-dt40wt20/
Grey - mwphs.co.uk/product/honeywell-home-dt4-grey-wired-tpi-thermostat-dt40gt21/
Black - mwphs.co.uk/product/honeywell-home-dt4-black-wired-tpi-thermostat-dt40bt22/
@ thanks. Are there any options for a stat that you can turn on/off via WiFi, if hard wired, without the receiver/relay? Basically looking to be able to turn heating on when not home
Great video. I have a dratec combistat which needs replacing with digital. Presume it would be very similar process. Do you know if the Drayton digistat or honeywell stats would be similar fitting as well?
Any wired and battery operated thermostat (programmable or non-programmable) would be similar to this to fit, but I cannot comment if they would be the same.
Thanks for the informative video.
I've got a new installation in progress, and want to avoid a smart/wireless system, and prefer the simplicity of these over the programmable thermostats. I do, however, still want the ability to programme them.
If i wanted the bathrooms and living area to be on during the day, but not the bedrooms, does that mean that I'd need multiple external programmers, one for each area?
These are simply non-programmable thermostats, so no provision for any time control. If you want time control, maybe consider another battery operated programmable wired thermostat like the Drayton Digistat 2290B - mwphs.co.uk/product/drayton-digistat-wired-programmable-thermostat-2290b/
Hi , thanks for the video.
I have a basic vented boiler , is the wiring same as a combi .
I.e - switched live in port b , permanent live port A .
Asking this as the wiring instructions for dt4 say permanent live not required.
Thanks
All wired thermostats do a very similar thing. In the case of the DT4, a permanent live is not required to power the DT4 as it is battery powered, but as per the video something will be required to provide the switching, be that volt free or a 230v supply switching back to the wiring centre or the boiler. If you are in any way unsure, get a competent person to do the works for you.
Very clear video. Would the DT4R be a good replacement for the Sunvic TLX 2259. In particular would the backplate of the 2259 accomodate the DT4R without needing to drill new holes etc? I have a conventional boiler (Gloworm)? Many thanks.
Hi, looking at the Sunvic TLX 2259 the shape looks like it fits a standard UK backplate, so should have similar fixing holes to the DT4. Please note that the DT4R is the wireless version, the product in the video is a DT4 (mwphs.co.uk/product/honeywell-home-dt4-white-wired-tpi-thermostat-dt40wt20/).
@@MWPHS That's great, thank-you.
Hi is there a way to keep the display luminated constant or a model similar so it stays on cheers
The DT4 is designed for the display to turn off.
You can fit this if you want an efficient improvement and a display (but it’s a bit uglier)… 👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻
mwphs.co.uk/product/pro-wired-digital-room-thermostat/
Hi, I do hope that you can help. I have just watched how to remove a Honeywell clicky thermostat and the video was 100% accurate. It shows/I have red, yellow and blue wires powering it . The rest of the house setup is exactly as you show … I have the Honeywell timer for hot water/heating. Can I fit the thermostat you suggest and is so what are the wiring positions? Thanks in advance.
The DT4 can replace any existing non-programmable thermostat. Unfortunately, I can only comment about the thermostat we used in the video (which is also the equivalent to a Honeywell T6360 clicky stat). The wires that are in wiring terminals 1 & 3 on the existing thermostat, are the live and switched live wires. You use these wire (and these wires only) in the DT4 switching terminals, the rest of the wires are made safe as I've shown. If you need any technical support with the DT4 product, please contact Resideo on 0300 130 1299. Thanks for watching the video.
@@MWPHS I REALLY do appreciate you taking the time to answer. Thank you👍
Will this room thermostat be good to replace my dirty old potterton prt100 thermostat? I have red, black, yellow and earth into my old thermostat. Thanks
Yes it will
@@MWPHSwith my old stat being wired with old wires I have red live in terminal 1 yellow in 2 will this be my switch wire? Thanks
@@stud81 normally red and yellow will be live and switched live.
So clear, thank you very much.
You're very welcome!
I just took the cover off my existing mechanical thermostat, and it has Black, Brown and Grey wires. Can i still connect a D4 with these wires?
Yes you should be able to. It just makes the process a little harder as you need to identify the wires.
@MWPHS Thanks. I think I know what to do now.
I have a glow worm easicom. It has the pin programmer on the bolier itself, i have a thermostat in my living room. Can i replace it with the one in the video?
Thanks
This thermostat was designed to replace older thermostats so without more details I would say yes it should.
Hi , ive tried replacing my mams thermostatt with this , she had a danfoss programmer with statt aswell , done exactly what you did in the video and it doesn't do anything , doesn't fire up when statt is turned right up, any help is appreciated , thank you
The obvious question is what is the programmer schedules set to? If the programmer is in an ‘OFF’ period, it won’t matter what you set the thermostat to, it won’t come on. The thermostat has to have a demand and the programmer must be in an ‘ON’ period for the boiler to come on. 👍🏻
I've read that this Honeywell DT4 model constantly keeps turning the boiler on on off. Is is a good replacement for the old style stat or should I look to replace it with th DT2? Thanks for any help offered.
The DT4 is a Class IV TPI thermostat so like all TPI thermostats will turn the boiler on and off to maintain the correct temperature in the home. A clicky round thermostat is usually Class I thermostat which also turns the boiler on and off but badly controls temperature which wastes money.
I have a Honeywell T40 clicky stat, can I replace it with a receiver for the DT4 RF and is the wiring the same?
Without knowing exactly what thermostat you have I can only say that it should be possible, but you would need, live, neutral, switched live and earth at the existing thermostat.
Hi mate, I currently have a mechanical dial thermostat. It has 3 wires, a red and blue that are attached and a yellow wire that isn’t attached. What is the yellow wire for?
Most electricians run 3 core & earth for heating controls, wether needed or not. It usually depends if you have zone valves, wiring centre or not.
@ thanks for your reply. So if I get this thermostat I can just attach the red and blue wires and leave the yellow one detached?
If it the heating turns on or off when you operate the current thermostat (with the two wires that are attached), then those two wires will work with the new thermostat too.
@@MWPHS thanks yeah, I’ve installed it today. All working great
i have a danfoss analog room thermostat thats wired with a red live blue neutral and a red jumper wire from the live to the comms on the thermostat. will this honeywll dt4 work with this wire set up
Yes, this thermostat will work with any existing thermostat, you just have to fully understand how it fits your wiring scenario.
Hello, I live in UK and I have gas combi boiler downstairs with direct heating no water tank, I have 1 thermostat down in living room and other one upstairs in master bedroom both old clicky ones, would this thermostat suit me to swap simply both old ones? thank you
Also one more question, at the end you've set the programer onto continuous mode so do I leave it like that ? cause I have 3 different section where I set the time when the boiler turns on during the day. thx
Hi, yes the DT4 wired thermostats (links in video description) are suitable for replacing any clicky thermostat. Once you have completed the testing shown in the video, you would return the programmer back to the normal operation mode (auto or twice).
That is amazing thank you very much for your help 👌
Good video.. thanks for
Most welcome! :)
Not working for me. Same old thermostat (THR830T), same wiring, connecting Live to A and Live out (load) to B but nothing is happening. Not sure if it matters that I have a zone valve on the system, not sure if wiring is different in that case, but I have a programming unit similar like in this video, it is on continuous on but no luck 😢
Unfortunately you have multiple fail points in a heating system, so its best to call a heating installer to come and look at the system for you.
@@MWPHS I made it work, but it is weird. On the old thermometer, on your video on number 2 you have blue neutral wire and I have blue and black together on 2, and the new one is working ONLY when those two (blue and black) have contact... So I connected them and isolated them with tape and it's working. No idea why...
@@fanofmussic well written comment. Your wiring must be very old because neutral used to be created with blue plus black.
What's the warranty on this thermostat please? Thanks
5 Year Resideo Warranty on the DT4R
Shouldn't that be a 13A fuse? I want to get underfloor electric heating and thought 13A is what I should be using.
The DT4 thermostat is only capable of a maximum switching current of 3 amp resistive. Please don't use 13 amp fuses with these thermostats.
@@MWPHS In short, I inherited electric underfloor heating, but no idea if it is working. The old one is a honeywell t6360 and I would like to replace it but no idea with what and what fuse to use on it.
My instructions in the box were completely wrong, how ever there was a small sticker with a diagram on the back of DT4 which said use live, neutral and switch live. The sticker was right
There is only one hard wired version of the DT4 (as shown in the video) and it does not use a neutral.
How loud is the click? We have the DT2 and the clicks drive my wife crazy at night.
I haven’t measured the sound of it using a decibel meter. But it isn’t what I would say as loud? Everyone is different though and what doesn’t annoy me might annoy someone else.
@@MWPHS thanks - I went ahead and swapped them out and the DT4 is much quieter, but more importantly doesn’t click all the time for no reason like the others! Cheers
I think you slightly over simplified the wiring.
Because, as we know, when lots of plumbers did their own wiring they used twin & earth & used the earth as the switched live. After all, the earth post on most ( not all) stats is just somewhere to tidy the wiring.
I,m not nit - picking, but it is still very common in older properties.
I can only show how it should have been done in accordance with manufacturer’s wiring guides. How it has been done in real life or different properties (not in accordance to guides or regulations) is not something I can or even want to control. Second guessing what others do would mean no-one would ever do any video guides. 😊