Addenda: 0) My charts don't seem to be quite right. My test builds don't produce power all the way to the end of the dormant period. If that's something you want, I suggest turning down the temperature a bit. I'll reevaluate the setup when I have collected better data. 1) You may want to cool the steam turbines from an external source instead of using the integrated steel aquatuner in the video. If you want to do it that way, and you want to tune the build the way I suggest in the video, you can use these charts: imgur.com/p8mSsDp imgur.com/DWIpH5i (I think they are correct but I haven't tested it well). 2) Omg, to get the petroleum in for the bypass pumps all you have to do is put some petroleum into the valves above. (Thanks to everyone who is telling me so.)
Please come back! I watched all these videos and got some amazing ideas and I want more! I hope hate or life struggle didnt get you to stop making content. I cant wait to see more from you.
Trying this now. 1 It is difficult to place the automation items because vents now too can be automated. 2 The automation (buffer etc) breaks when inside. It should be constructed outside of the chamber. The rest of the mechanics seem to hold up (2 cycles active).
Steam magic! Keep making videos like this and you're going places. All of your volcano taming videos have inspired me to take on a geoactive Volcanea asteroid. It's proving a, uh, challenge for sure.
You're very good at explaining complex things. I've never bother understanding automation on door compressor an copied (imperfect) blueprints. Now I can build my own thanks to you !
7:14, I'm confused about the purpose of the automation wires that go in one horizontal row from the output of the buffer gate to the atmosensor but also takes a line from the output of a buffer gate partially inside the steam turbine room. Does the ticking loop of the first two buffer gates still work?
Basically, this is a single line that let's the thermo sensor turn off the door compressor when it's too hot. The thermo sensor also controls the liquid valve, so that's on the line.There is an atmo sensor on the line that will also turn off the door compressor when there isn't enough steam to bother. The buffer gate only works one-way, so having it there prevents the atmo sensor and door-timer from accidentally controlling the liquid valve. Also, the buffer gate makes the door compressor stay off until 5 seconds after the thermo sensor is ready for it to turn on. The thought on that is that its better to wait for the temperature to be stable for a while before adding more steam.
@@tonyadvanced6315 Thank you for that explanation! And of course for the exhaustive explanation throughout the whole video. You really put a ton of research and effort into it. I've changed my top line buffer gate to a Timer Sensor set to 5s green and 5.2s red, which seems to be working
Solid build even considering that all the door automation has to be moved outside. This needs to happen or the vents interfere with the door automation. I had one or two issues and emailed Tony directly. Good guy. Very helpful. Solid build. Safe to say that I now subscribe.
It is possible to route around the vents while keeping it inside. I squished the atmo sensor and the top block over to the right, and slid around a few of the bottom gates.
@elspood because of additional objects gaining the ability to be automated in updates since this was created, as far as I can tell, no. It still works; you just need to reroute wires a little.
Wow lots of work for this video, I salute you man. @12:03, I think the phrasing is a bit misleading. The number of open ports in a steam turbine does not control the amount of heat deleted, only the amount of stream extracted, 0.4 Kg/s per port. The amount of head depends on both the amount and the temperature of the steam. Of course, if you keep the temperature constant (which you plan to do, but you haven't mentioned yet), then yes the amount of steam controls also the amount of heat. @33:48, wouldn't it be faster to play with the piping and let petroleum in via the valves? Every drop should land in the right place w/o deconstructing anything, and you have to mop the rest only.
I was thinking about the debris causing problems all along.. it really messes things up when it comes to builds regarding temperature to work. For example, a petroleum boiler made with an aquatuner as a heat source.. if you replace any pipes that burst from overheating the "debris" metal sometimes is left behind.. it can keep cooling the crude enough to start pooling in the cooking area. Removing all debris all the time is the safest way.
a neat thing you can do with a modified version of the door pump you have there is leave the middle open so that it doesn't transmit heat while inactive, used one of those recently on a multi salt water geyser boiler
Damn, you're really underrated, man. Most tutorials won't even go THIS in-depth and explain why and how it works, how it's built etc, it even has PDFs and everything so the data can be used to make slight changes depending on it. Question though, with the new updates and everything... are there changes to the game that makes this design less or more efficient that it is now? Or does this design do the same thing on the current version? Thx
this seems similar to a setup I used for an oddly placed (near edge neutronium) hot steam vent. I used a gas elevator dripping petroleum to pull hot steam away from vent and store steam infinitely. I had a supercoolant loop in the gas elevator walls to pull heat from new steam and transfer that heat into the working-steam chamber. that kept my backup of steam cool enough to not break a steel gas pump. same idea of recirculating the turbine runoff only when the working-steam gets too hot and then moving in fresh steam from an infinite storage when the working-steam is too cold. p.s. the infinite storage never really built up to high pressure as I used the pump to feed stored steam into a nearby dormant copper volcano tamer.
An actual use for the hot steam vents. Bravo. Always thought they didn't put out enough steam to be of any use. I guess I was just thinking of output water. Perhaps they buffed the hot steam vents? I remember all the ones I'd ever looked at only putting out maybe 500g/s
31:23 can't you use the liquid vents to place the petroleum beads? You have the plumbing ready up top, all you need is a small pool a temp pump and careful management of the amounts, but you have the valves up top for that.
Hmm... If you reorder the steam turbine output priorities, wouldn't you be able to take the cold water from the cooling loop out instead? To the bypass pump first, then to the steam temperature control, and finally to the cooling loop. Bridge the cooling loop into the the steam turbines' output to prioritize turbine water before the water already in the loop, and have the surplus from the loop come out from the input of said bridge... Would that take up less energy than cooling the water separately, and would it affect the system's efficiency? I only feel confident enough to even suggest that because of your videos. You do great work, and are my go to channel for tips and tricks.
Ah nice it works, thanks so much. Though I did get forced to spaghetti the automation to avoid affecting the liquid vents on the right of the steam vent
I followed this plan with some repositioning of automation gates so the four liquid vents weren't getting automated, but I found that all my steam released was trapped at the 4x2 area at the bottom of the guyser plus the 2x2 area above that (like an upside-down T). Steam wasn't passing the petro drops. I removed the two insulated tiles between the top two liquid vents and that seemed to "unlock" the blockage.
I tried doing this but I messed up and the vent erupted before I could finish it. I've got the 0.1g water dropping but there was no liquid below it. Surprisingly, the vent kept erupting overpressured. I think the water dropping made a block vaccuum for splits of seconds constantly and made it work. It keeps the whole chamber overpressurized. Wait.. It just broke. There was a pool of water from the steam, I got rid of it and it stopped erupting at pressure 140kg.
most of this is going over my head, i guess because i haven't played with the mechanics enough to understand how they work, but i can't help but wonder how much time you put into testing and tweaking to generate things like those reference charts. that's some studious scientific engineer work right there.
I think much of it comes from finally understanding the mechanics in detail. And then there's sandbox testing where you discover new crazy stuff. Takes time.
In a map I started a few days ago, (geoactive ofc) I’ve managed to find three cool slush and two cool steam so far. I have about 600 tons of stores clean water and I’m at the point where I’m just venting my germy water into space.
Dude, use the polluted water to grow ungodly amounts of reed fiber. In the end game you'll have so much space-age insulation that you could do anything.
I didn't try it out, so I'm not sure. But when the door compressor is idle for a while I think that would either open all the doors or close all the doors, depending how you do the wiring.
@@tonyadvanced6315 Right, when idle it closes all the doors. I also have manual override to close or open all doors for maintenance and such. It's just a minor optimization, basically it's reversing the phase of the clock to save not gate. Great videos btw, I really like how well prepared and logic dense they are.
@@AmbiguousAdventurer I'll have to try working that out on mine. With the automation updates, I replaced his loop with the timer sensor , but I also had to flip the green/red ratio and add a "not" gate to get the override working. I should try that and see how many of the not gates I can strip out of the build. (also note to self for the future, don't mix up lead and gold when building the automation in here. That was a pretty spectacular mess)
Nice. I've finished this build (with some automation re-arranging), and it works like a champ! The only issue is that during dormancy, the shutoff acts as a Pipe Blocker and won't let the steam turbines emit their water. My steam rooms is fine - 600k of steam at 255 so that's no an issue. If turn down the thermo sensor (as you suggest) and allow the shutoff to let the turbine water vent, it turns back on, but only for a little while. Is this the "not running during dormancy" thing you were talking about? Any suggestions for how to fix? One of the reasons I loved this build is the slow, steady power at all times aspect.
It sounds like something isn't right with the plumbing.I'm down to have a look. Mine didn't make it all the way through dormancy. It was designed for it, and I think the math is right, but not well tested because it takes forever. I want to revisit the project eventually and figure it out.
@@tonyadvanced6315 I'll futz with it, if I happen to come up with a solution, I'll post it here. I don't have high hope because you are so much more detailed and knowledgeable. I'll give it a shot. For the record, my plumbing is exactly the same as yours (I pulled up the blueprint you provided because I suspected the plumbing as well.) It's such a cool build though! I want it to work.
Anyone know if this can be flipped and would still work based on the way drop pumps work? i.e. if I wanted the steam to go left at the top and not right due to an unfortunately situated copper volcano.....
Just a note on the geyser calculation - the method described in the video is wrong. An eruption period is never cut short due to dormancy. More details on how it's calculated can be found forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/112066-geysers-dormancy-and-emission-calculation/
I'd love to see the calculations you're using to determine the tuning numbers. Also, eventually "it was my latest video" isn't going to work. Much as with debris sweeping, maintenance (that is, posting links to videos) now prevents headaches later. (I do see you posted links for the mentioned video; I hope you have the chance to go back through your other videos to add that info later.)
Here it is. I dunno if I made it clear enough. If you dig into it and find a problem I'll be quite happy to hear about it. right now, I suspect that my problem comes from my understanding of the heat loss due to adding water to high pressure steam. It might be that as the pressure increases it gets 2.5% worse, not .25% worse as I thought. That would put a pretty hard cap on how much steam can be saved for the dormant period. docs.google.com/document/d/1Lk4BnxacyLO3SElRhRUXgnpO8xLW_TtdcU_I8w4Eroc/edit?usp=sharing
I think you can reach nearly the same efficiency by just slapping 2 or 3 (I haven’t felt the need for a third but I haven’t stress tested it on nastier vents) steam turbines on a room full of temp shift plates and redirecting the water in if the pressure is low or if the temp is high. I haven’t had any over pressurization issues with this and this doesn’t have the utility of constant power but it’s much simpler and cheaper. I know yours is more efficient but I generally don’t care as much about optimizing power generation since power is so plentiful in oni.
That's a good idea and I think it can work well in the right situation, particularly if you aren't overly concerned about maximizing the power output. I've seen some designs on the Klei forums that start with the same concept. They were developed further so the tempshift plates transmit heat into metal tiles to heat adjacent rooms of steam. I tried to make that work but there are some beefy steam vents that emit like 8kg/s while they are erupting and I just couldn't make it work without a gigantic build with like 16 steam turbines. I failed at managing the pressure without bypass pumps on steam vents like that.
@@tonyadvanced6315 I set up the automation so that after it erupts and goes idle for a bit, the turbines drain the room down to a low pressure like 2kg and 125C, I know this makes the steam turbines a bit less efficient but it means I can get most of the power out without ever over pressurizing the vent and losing water. I bet this is overkill and you can probably do like 1kg and 180C and have it work for most or every vent but I haven't played around with it too much. Also where are you getting that 8kg/s while erupting number? I've never really seen anything above 2.7kg/s while erupting.
@@nikofrancisco9894 It's technically possible for a steam vent to output 25kg/s, me and a guy on the Klei forum figured out the numbers for it today. But their stats are also a hash of their location on a map, so it may be coincidentally impossible for a nuclear steam vent to ever happen. Anything over 3.5 is pretty rare. But I have one on my test map right now that does 7.6.
Answering my own question it could work but you need several door pumps and is bulkier than just using the drip pump. The reason being door pump's throughput depends on the pressure and it is very slow in a low pressure environment. Therefore a 2 stage solution (drop pump -> high pressure -> door pump) is better.
@@AmbiguousAdventurer You are right. It can be done, but it's awfully obtuse and requires a massive contraption for a particularly beefy steam vent. I've never been too keen on drip pumps but they sure seem like the right tool for the job.
264°C ? Does it make any sense to run a steam turbine above 200°C ? I guess you will waste power. There must be another setup to manage water / heat flow efficiently.
If you block some of the ports you can process higher temperature steam without wasting power. You can easily set it to 200C if you like, but you risk problems with having enough water to cool it down that much.
Gah! it's taken me 2 days on 50% speed to get pretty far in this build - but when I try to place the bottom filter gate over the bottom-right liquid vent, I get an "automation ports cannot overlap" restriction. I've been *very* precise in this build, counting exact tiles and so forth - help!
why dont you just use a door compresor and a steam turbine that has 2 inputs open and use the steam turbine to cool itself i tink 2 also the door compresor is over coplicated and you dont need to power the doors im not saying your desing is bad its just overcomplicated
I was just taking a quick look through your equations and they're not quite sinking in, so I have a few questions: 1) Why is ΔT equal to 500-95 rather than 500-125, since turbines require 125°C steam to function? 2) Where is the term that accounts for using the 95°C return to cool down the generated steam? 3) Why is WaterTemp described as "the temperature below which a steam turbine cannot harvest heat energy"? Sorry if any of those should be obvious, ONI is just still very confusing to me.
You have to think of the system as a black box. Steam goes in, water (and power) comes out. Of course, assuming there are no leaks, perfect insulation all around, which is totally possible if you create a vacuum. Possibily not worth it, doubling the insulation could do, and probably even as it is, leaks are minimal and can be ignored. 1) I believe that would be the ΔT of 1g of water entering the system via the vent and exiting via the pipe. I don't see why 125 would be relevant since the steam the STs are operating on is not at that temperature anyway; 2) it doesn't leave the system; what happens inside the black box, stays in the black box; 3) again, black box. While I get where you're coming from (125 being the min temp for ST activation), it's 95 the lower end here. The fact that you might need to raise the temp to activate the ST, doesn't change that fact that the system (as a whole) is extracting heat from water. Granted, extracting heat from 96C water might not be power positive. But still, heat is extracted. We know metal refineries are power positive (excect for gold). But lower end metals like Tungesten aren't much if the dups are not skilled. So picture this: a metal refinery / steam turbine setup which is perfectly balanced in terms of power. The refinery and the pipes are inside a steam chamber. The steam turbine output (95C water, 2Kg/s) is looped back inside the room. Temperature reaches equilibrium and power balance is 0. Now, build a liquid pipe that adds 96C 2Kg/s of water from the outside. Divert 95C water from the turbine to the outside. Now the temperature inside the steam chamber is slightly higher (you're adding 96C water instead of 95C). You've build a system that inputs 96C water, outputs 95C water, and now is slightly power positive. A system that is capable of extracting heat from 96C water, with a steam turbine.
@@tonyadvanced6315 So far I'm using manual switches. It is extending the amount of time I can siphon energy from my mini volcano chamber(which is my highest steam turbine power generation setup). I'm going to attempt to play around with other automation types to see if I can find a hands free solution maximize this.
I'm using Ubuntu Linux on this: www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Y50-70-Laptop-Computer-Touch/dp/B00WHIS8KW Mine has 16GB of RAM and a 4K screen. Besides that I think it's the same.
That would work, but you'd lose 75% of the potential power and you'd have to use/store the power it produces immediately. If you block three ports on each steam turbine then you'll only lose a third-ish of the power and you'll have to make like 8 of them. If you make 8 of them then it's not as simple as just making a big room.
Learned a lot since the earlier comments. I now have a build that can store any amount of steam at whatever temperature and then have turbines harvest both the power and water as needed. It looks a lot different from your build tho.
Yes it is, I just built this in Spaced Out. Works fine, just have to move the automation so it doesn't interfere with the vents. I build it to the side and use an automation ribbon to the doors.
I just made a contraption that cycles molten steel and steam to provide my base with basically free energy. Insulation blocks prevent my base from overheating and it needs no vents and geysers.
@@tonyadvanced6315 The initial startup is slow. I use either the space heaters or the liquid one. Molten steel is perfect because it doesn't solidify which would ruin the whole thing. Automated doors to keep the stuff flowing and a ton of water to prevent everything from melting. Once a while it needs to regenerate, but in case you can not live with power outage, you can build two which will give you a permanent net positive energy.
All that work to get almost no extra power. Steam vents aren't worth the time. 1 Hatch ranch and run a coal plant 24/7 and you're getting 50w more than this set up. Unless you get a crazy good one. Which is rare. They aren't worth the time. 1700w from the turbines minus 1200 from a tuner that 500w. 1 coal plant is 600w. Again unless you get a insanely good vent which the odds say you won't. They aren't worth the time. I'd say ever. Great guild. Nice setup. But why?
That's a fair question. I have answers. The straightforward answer is that a hatch farm consumes minerals and labor (food and oxygen) and it produces eggshell, meat, and coal. A hot steam tamer consumes nothing and produces power and water. To me, this makes them substantially different solutions that are best applied in substantially different situations depending on the state of your resources and needs. For example, if you are short on water then a hatch farm doesn't seem helpful, and if you haven't made plastic yet then it doesn't make much sense to harness a steam vent. Still, perhaps the better answer is that players often prefer to focus on optimizing the utilization of all the resources at their disposal, and that's the primary goal of this build... how to squeeze every drop out of a stream vent. Please note that the tuner only keeps the turbines cool, so it's off most of the time. The turbines don't work at their full capacity either, but there a lot of energy in that steam and the power output would probably outrun a hatch stable for most vents.
Addenda:
0) My charts don't seem to be quite right. My test builds don't produce power all the way to the end of the dormant period. If that's something you want, I suggest turning down the temperature a bit. I'll reevaluate the setup when I have collected better data.
1) You may want to cool the steam turbines from an external source instead of using the integrated steel aquatuner in the video. If you want to do it that way, and you want to tune the build the way I suggest in the video, you can use these charts: imgur.com/p8mSsDp imgur.com/DWIpH5i (I think they are correct but I haven't tested it well).
2) Omg, to get the petroleum in for the bypass pumps all you have to do is put some petroleum into the valves above. (Thanks to everyone who is telling me so.)
What should the valves be set for the petroleum beads? (because too low and they will disappear, like the water that the bypass pump is consuming)
@@wolframitephoenix6737 I've heard that the limit is 20 grams, so anything higher than that should do.
COME BACK MAN!!!!
Please come back! I watched all these videos and got some amazing ideas and I want more! I hope hate or life struggle didnt get you to stop making content. I cant wait to see more from you.
Trying this now.
1 It is difficult to place the automation items because vents now too can be automated.
2 The automation (buffer etc) breaks when inside. It should be constructed outside of the chamber.
The rest of the mechanics seem to hold up (2 cycles active).
Are you still out there, Tony? I still find myself coming back and re-learning things from your videos.
Wondering the same. Hope he's well.
Yeah, man. Please drop a comment when you have the time, just to know you are fine.
Missing your fab ONI tips and vids Tony!
Tony your videos are the best ONI content I have seen on RUclips. Thanks for your thorough explanations.
Note from 2022, the automation has to be changed a bit now that liquid outputs have auto inputs. Still a great build, though.
Steam magic! Keep making videos like this and you're going places.
All of your volcano taming videos have inspired me to take on a geoactive Volcanea asteroid. It's proving a, uh, challenge for sure.
You're very good at explaining complex things. I've never bother understanding automation on door compressor an copied (imperfect) blueprints. Now I can build my own thanks to you !
I can feel how much effort you put into each video of your. Pros to your dedication. cant wait til your next video
Fantastic tutorial! I especially appreciate the part where you actually build it with your dupes.
Get this man more subscribers.
Been a while since I was knee deep in ONI.
Hope you're doing well Tony, you had the best ONI content my dude.
This explanation was great, super detailed and simple. Great work!
works great thanks!
7:14, I'm confused about the purpose of the automation wires that go in one horizontal row from the output of the buffer gate to the atmosensor but also takes a line from the output of a buffer gate partially inside the steam turbine room.
Does the ticking loop of the first two buffer gates still work?
Basically, this is a single line that let's the thermo sensor turn off the door compressor when it's too hot. The thermo sensor also controls the liquid valve, so that's on the line.There is an atmo sensor on the line that will also turn off the door compressor when there isn't enough steam to bother. The buffer gate only works one-way, so having it there prevents the atmo sensor and door-timer from accidentally controlling the liquid valve. Also, the buffer gate makes the door compressor stay off until 5 seconds after the thermo sensor is ready for it to turn on. The thought on that is that its better to wait for the temperature to be stable for a while before adding more steam.
@@tonyadvanced6315
Thank you for that explanation! And of course for the exhaustive explanation throughout the whole video. You really put a ton of research and effort into it.
I've changed my top line buffer gate to a Timer Sensor set to 5s green and 5.2s red, which seems to be working
Solid build even considering that all the door automation has to be moved outside. This needs to happen or the vents interfere with the door automation.
I had one or two issues and emailed Tony directly.
Good guy. Very helpful. Solid build.
Safe to say that I now subscribe.
It is possible to route around the vents while keeping it inside. I squished the atmo sensor and the top block over to the right, and slid around a few of the bottom gates.
@elspood because of additional objects gaining the ability to be automated in updates since this was created, as far as I can tell, no. It still works; you just need to reroute wires a little.
The greatest ONI chanell on youtube, keep it up!
This stuff is just too advanced. It's like UFO technology to me.
y man with my broken english im having helluva difficulties to get further energy other than creating large natural gas systems..
Very thorough and lots of useful details. Much kudos! 🎉
Wow lots of work for this video, I salute you man.
@12:03, I think the phrasing is a bit misleading. The number of open ports in a steam turbine does not control the amount of heat deleted, only the amount of stream extracted, 0.4 Kg/s per port. The amount of head depends on both the amount and the temperature of the steam. Of course, if you keep the temperature constant (which you plan to do, but you haven't mentioned yet), then yes the amount of steam controls also the amount of heat.
@33:48, wouldn't it be faster to play with the piping and let petroleum in via the valves? Every drop should land in the right place w/o deconstructing anything, and you have to mop the rest only.
Thank you for the feedback. Also, I added the petroleum thing to the addenda.
I was thinking about the debris causing problems all along.. it really messes things up when it comes to builds regarding temperature to work. For example, a petroleum boiler made with an aquatuner as a heat source.. if you replace any pipes that burst from overheating the "debris" metal sometimes is left behind.. it can keep cooling the crude enough to start pooling in the cooking area. Removing all debris all the time is the safest way.
a neat thing you can do with a modified version of the door pump you have there is leave the middle open so that it doesn't transmit heat while inactive, used one of those recently on a multi salt water geyser boiler
That's a good idea.
Damn, you're really underrated, man. Most tutorials won't even go THIS in-depth and explain why and how it works, how it's built etc, it even has PDFs and everything so the data can be used to make slight changes depending on it. Question though, with the new updates and everything... are there changes to the game that makes this design less or more efficient that it is now? Or does this design do the same thing on the current version? Thx
Tony Advanced posted a Twitter update guys! What a relief!
Thank you very much, great work!
It would be very practical to have the charts in PDF format, so you can search for the numbers by pressing Ctrl+F
this seems similar to a setup I used for an oddly placed (near edge neutronium) hot steam vent.
I used a gas elevator dripping petroleum to pull hot steam away from vent and store steam infinitely.
I had a supercoolant loop in the gas elevator walls to pull heat from new steam and transfer that heat into the working-steam chamber.
that kept my backup of steam cool enough to not break a steel gas pump.
same idea of recirculating the turbine runoff only when the working-steam gets too hot and then moving in fresh steam from an infinite storage when the working-steam is too cold.
p.s. the infinite storage never really built up to high pressure as I used the pump to feed stored steam into a nearby dormant copper volcano tamer.
An actual use for the hot steam vents. Bravo. Always thought they didn't put out enough steam to be of any use. I guess I was just thinking of output water.
Perhaps they buffed the hot steam vents? I remember all the ones I'd ever looked at only putting out maybe 500g/s
I love this, I love how u explain things too❤
debris matters in the end, as it ignores the insulated modifier on insulated tiles, meaning heat leaks out easier
That's true. Thank you.
31:23 can't you use the liquid vents to place the petroleum beads?
You have the plumbing ready up top, all you need is a small pool a temp pump and careful management of the amounts, but you have the valves up top for that.
Yep You are right. I realized that in hindsight, I think it would have been worth it in this situation.
Hmm... If you reorder the steam turbine output priorities, wouldn't you be able to take the cold water from the cooling loop out instead?
To the bypass pump first, then to the steam temperature control, and finally to the cooling loop. Bridge the cooling loop into the the steam turbines' output to prioritize turbine water before the water already in the loop, and have the surplus from the loop come out from the input of said bridge... Would that take up less energy than cooling the water separately, and would it affect the system's efficiency?
I only feel confident enough to even suggest that because of your videos. You do great work, and are my go to channel for tips and tricks.
Amazing! ...and very generous (with your charts)!
can you make a video on using the magma core for power?
Ah nice it works, thanks so much. Though I did get forced to spaghetti the automation to avoid affecting the liquid vents on the right of the steam vent
I followed this plan with some repositioning of automation gates so the four liquid vents weren't getting automated, but I found that all my steam released was trapped at the 4x2 area at the bottom of the guyser plus the 2x2 area above that (like an upside-down T). Steam wasn't passing the petro drops. I removed the two insulated tiles between the top two liquid vents and that seemed to "unlock" the blockage.
Tony: "i don't have patience"? meanwhile rocks 11000 cycles
11000 cycles you are the man!
Thanks! But don't be too impressed, there's a lot of afk time in there.
I tried doing this but I messed up and the vent erupted before I could finish it. I've got the 0.1g water dropping but there was no liquid below it. Surprisingly, the vent kept erupting overpressured. I think the water dropping made a block vaccuum for splits of seconds constantly and made it work. It keeps the whole chamber overpressurized.
Wait.. It just broke. There was a pool of water from the steam, I got rid of it and it stopped erupting at pressure 140kg.
most of this is going over my head, i guess because i haven't played with the mechanics enough to understand how they work, but i can't help but wonder how much time you put into testing and tweaking to generate things like those reference charts. that's some studious scientific engineer work right there.
I think much of it comes from finally understanding the mechanics in detail. And then there's sandbox testing where you discover new crazy stuff.
Takes time.
In a map I started a few days ago, (geoactive ofc) I’ve managed to find three cool slush and two cool steam so far. I have about 600 tons of stores clean water and I’m at the point where I’m just venting my germy water into space.
Dude, use the polluted water to grow ungodly amounts of reed fiber. In the end game you'll have so much space-age insulation that you could do anything.
Tony Advanced won’t do me any good. I hAve no clue how rockets and space missions work
Your circuit can be simplified by just using buffer for 1st and 2nd door, and use buffer+ filter for the 3rd. No need for negation.
I didn't try it out, so I'm not sure. But when the door compressor is idle for a while I think that would either open all the doors or close all the doors, depending how you do the wiring.
@@tonyadvanced6315 Right, when idle it closes all the doors. I also have manual override to close or open all doors for maintenance and such. It's just a minor optimization, basically it's reversing the phase of the clock to save not gate. Great videos btw, I really like how well prepared and logic dense they are.
@@AmbiguousAdventurer I'll have to try working that out on mine. With the automation updates, I replaced his loop with the timer sensor , but I also had to flip the green/red ratio and add a "not" gate to get the override working. I should try that and see how many of the not gates I can strip out of the build. (also note to self for the future, don't mix up lead and gold when building the automation in here. That was a pretty spectacular mess)
You could’ve let dupes back in through the airlock to sweep the debris, but that would let heat out
you could have used the liquid vents to pour the petroleum instead of deconstructing things and so on.
isn't the heat of the 500C steam transferred by the door constantly to the steam of the turbines?
NEW SERIES PLEASEEE
Nice. I've finished this build (with some automation re-arranging), and it works like a champ! The only issue is that during dormancy, the shutoff acts as a Pipe Blocker and won't let the steam turbines emit their water. My steam rooms is fine - 600k of steam at 255 so that's no an issue. If turn down the thermo sensor (as you suggest) and allow the shutoff to let the turbine water vent, it turns back on, but only for a little while. Is this the "not running during dormancy" thing you were talking about? Any suggestions for how to fix? One of the reasons I loved this build is the slow, steady power at all times aspect.
It sounds like something isn't right with the plumbing.I'm down to have a look. Mine didn't make it all the way through dormancy. It was designed for it, and I think the math is right, but not well tested because it takes forever. I want to revisit the project eventually and figure it out.
@@tonyadvanced6315 I'll futz with it, if I happen to come up with a solution, I'll post it here. I don't have high hope because you are so much more detailed and knowledgeable. I'll give it a shot. For the record, my plumbing is exactly the same as yours (I pulled up the blueprint you provided because I suspected the plumbing as well.) It's such a cool build though! I want it to work.
Anyone know if this can be flipped and would still work based on the way drop pumps work? i.e. if I wanted the steam to go left at the top and not right due to an unfortunately situated copper volcano.....
holy balls his name is mathmanican i swear ive read it as mathematician for probably a year
I wonder if I'm pronouncing it right.
With the newly released automation update for ONI would you suggest an updated build?
Can I get away with leaving the airlock doors unpowered?
nice video bro thank you
Just a note on the geyser calculation - the method described in the video is wrong. An eruption period is never cut short due to dormancy. More details on how it's calculated can be found forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/112066-geysers-dormancy-and-emission-calculation/
I'd love to see the calculations you're using to determine the tuning numbers.
Also, eventually "it was my latest video" isn't going to work. Much as with debris sweeping, maintenance (that is, posting links to videos) now prevents headaches later. (I do see you posted links for the mentioned video; I hope you have the chance to go back through your other videos to add that info later.)
I'll put a document together and let you know.
Here it is. I dunno if I made it clear enough. If you dig into it and find a problem I'll be quite happy to hear about it. right now, I suspect that my problem comes from my understanding of the heat loss due to adding water to high pressure steam. It might be that as the pressure increases it gets 2.5% worse, not .25% worse as I thought. That would put a pretty hard cap on how much steam can be saved for the dormant period. docs.google.com/document/d/1Lk4BnxacyLO3SElRhRUXgnpO8xLW_TtdcU_I8w4Eroc/edit?usp=sharing
Very Well Done!
I think you can reach nearly the same efficiency by just slapping 2 or 3 (I haven’t felt the need for a third but I haven’t stress tested it on nastier vents) steam turbines on a room full of temp shift plates and redirecting the water in if the pressure is low or if the temp is high. I haven’t had any over pressurization issues with this and this doesn’t have the utility of constant power but it’s much simpler and cheaper. I know yours is more efficient but I generally don’t care as much about optimizing power generation since power is so plentiful in oni.
That's a good idea and I think it can work well in the right situation, particularly if you aren't overly concerned about maximizing the power output. I've seen some designs on the Klei forums that start with the same concept. They were developed further so the tempshift plates transmit heat into metal tiles to heat adjacent rooms of steam.
I tried to make that work but there are some beefy steam vents that emit like 8kg/s while they are erupting and I just couldn't make it work without a gigantic build with like 16 steam turbines. I failed at managing the pressure without bypass pumps on steam vents like that.
@@tonyadvanced6315 I set up the automation so that after it erupts and goes idle for a bit, the turbines drain the room down to a low pressure like 2kg and 125C, I know this makes the steam turbines a bit less efficient but it means I can get most of the power out without ever over pressurizing the vent and losing water. I bet this is overkill and you can probably do like 1kg and 180C and have it work for most or every vent but I haven't played around with it too much. Also where are you getting that 8kg/s while erupting number? I've never really seen anything above 2.7kg/s while erupting.
@@nikofrancisco9894 It's technically possible for a steam vent to output 25kg/s, me and a guy on the Klei forum figured out the numbers for it today. But their stats are also a hash of their location on a map, so it may be coincidentally impossible for a nuclear steam vent to ever happen.
Anything over 3.5 is pretty rare. But I have one on my test map right now that does 7.6.
Does it work if we remove the drip pumps and just use the door compressor to remove 500C steam from the steam vent room?
Answering my own question it could work but you need several door pumps and is bulkier than just using the drip pump. The reason being door pump's throughput depends on the pressure and it is very slow in a low pressure environment. Therefore a 2 stage solution (drop pump -> high pressure -> door pump) is better.
@@AmbiguousAdventurer You are right. It can be done, but it's awfully obtuse and requires a massive contraption for a particularly beefy steam vent. I've never been too keen on drip pumps but they sure seem like the right tool for the job.
264°C ? Does it make any sense to run a steam turbine above 200°C ? I guess you will waste power. There must be another setup to manage water / heat flow efficiently.
If you block some of the ports you can process higher temperature steam without wasting power. You can easily set it to 200C if you like, but you risk problems with having enough water to cool it down that much.
Gah! it's taken me 2 days on 50% speed to get pretty far in this build - but when I try to place the bottom filter gate over the bottom-right liquid vent, I get an "automation ports cannot overlap" restriction. I've been *very* precise in this build, counting exact tiles and so forth - help!
Liquid vents didn't have automation ports back when I made this video. They can't coexist in the same grid any more.
@@tonyadvanced6315 Well that's frustrating to say the least, but thanks for the explanation.
what kind of wizardry is this!?
why dont you just use a door compresor and a steam turbine that has 2 inputs open
and use the steam turbine to cool itself
i tink 2
also the door compresor is over coplicated and you dont need to power the doors
im not saying your desing is bad its just overcomplicated
I was just taking a quick look through your equations and they're not quite sinking in, so I have a few questions:
1) Why is ΔT equal to 500-95 rather than 500-125, since turbines require 125°C steam to function?
2) Where is the term that accounts for using the 95°C return to cool down the generated steam?
3) Why is WaterTemp described as "the temperature below which a steam turbine cannot harvest heat energy"?
Sorry if any of those should be obvious, ONI is just still very confusing to me.
You have to think of the system as a black box. Steam goes in, water (and power) comes out. Of course, assuming there are no leaks, perfect insulation all around, which is totally possible if you create a vacuum. Possibily not worth it, doubling the insulation could do, and probably even as it is, leaks are minimal and can be ignored.
1) I believe that would be the ΔT of 1g of water entering the system via the vent and exiting via the pipe. I don't see why 125 would be relevant since the steam the STs are operating on is not at that temperature anyway;
2) it doesn't leave the system; what happens inside the black box, stays in the black box;
3) again, black box. While I get where you're coming from (125 being the min temp for ST activation), it's 95 the lower end here. The fact that you might need to raise the temp to activate the ST, doesn't change that fact that the system (as a whole) is extracting heat from water. Granted, extracting heat from 96C water might not be power positive. But still, heat is extracted.
We know metal refineries are power positive (excect for gold). But lower end metals like Tungesten aren't much if the dups are not skilled. So picture this: a metal refinery / steam turbine setup which is perfectly balanced in terms of power. The refinery and the pipes are inside a steam chamber. The steam turbine output (95C water, 2Kg/s) is looped back inside the room. Temperature reaches equilibrium and power balance is 0.
Now, build a liquid pipe that adds 96C 2Kg/s of water from the outside. Divert 95C water from the turbine to the outside. Now the temperature inside the steam chamber is slightly higher (you're adding 96C water instead of 95C).
You've build a system that inputs 96C water, outputs 95C water, and now is slightly power positive. A system that is capable of extracting heat from 96C water, with a steam turbine.
If you need to block certain ports, could you use a door with a sensor to open when you want more ports open?
Yes. That works. Let me know if you see a way to use it for this build that you like.
@@tonyadvanced6315 So far I'm using manual switches. It is extending the amount of time I can siphon energy from my mini volcano chamber(which is my highest steam turbine power generation setup). I'm going to attempt to play around with other automation types to see if I can find a hands free solution maximize this.
Wish I could send you a screenshot. My door idea has increased my 4 turbines from 250kw to avg of 500kw.
comeback tony. please
may i know your pc spec please? my oni always crash whenver i reach cycle 300+
I'm using Ubuntu Linux on this: www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Y50-70-Laptop-Computer-Touch/dp/B00WHIS8KW
Mine has 16GB of RAM and a 4K screen. Besides that I think it's the same.
I mean... just put it in a big room with some turbines on top? Shouldn't be difficult.
That would work, but you'd lose 75% of the potential power and you'd have to use/store the power it produces immediately. If you block three ports on each steam turbine then you'll only lose a third-ish of the power and you'll have to make like 8 of them. If you make 8 of them then it's not as simple as just making a big room.
How about if you don't have space materials? I don't do space.
@@Ibian666 I don't think you need space age materials for this build. I don't remember any.
Learned a lot since the earlier comments. I now have a build that can store any amount of steam at whatever temperature and then have turbines harvest both the power and water as needed. It looks a lot different from your build tho.
FINALLLLLLLY
This isn't possible to build any longer
Yes it is, I just built this in Spaced Out. Works fine, just have to move the automation so it doesn't interfere with the vents. I build it to the side and use an automation ribbon to the doors.
Does this still work on the vanilla game?
Yes
@@Morgja not exactly, liquid vents have automation currently so you can't do the automation in the same positions anymore
@@diegobaca2222 It works fine, I made it. You just need to move the automation around.
@@Morgja yea that's what I was saying
I just made a contraption that cycles molten steel and steam to provide my base with basically free energy. Insulation blocks prevent my base from overheating and it needs no vents and geysers.
Cool.
@@tonyadvanced6315 The initial startup is slow. I use either the space heaters or the liquid one. Molten steel is perfect because it doesn't solidify which would ruin the whole thing. Automated doors to keep the stuff flowing and a ton of water to prevent everything from melting.
Once a while it needs to regenerate, but in case you can not live with power outage, you can build two which will give you a permanent net positive energy.
All that work to get almost no extra power. Steam vents aren't worth the time. 1 Hatch ranch and run a coal plant 24/7 and you're getting 50w more than this set up. Unless you get a crazy good one. Which is rare. They aren't worth the time. 1700w from the turbines minus 1200 from a tuner that 500w. 1 coal plant is 600w. Again unless you get a insanely good vent which the odds say you won't. They aren't worth the time. I'd say ever. Great guild. Nice setup. But why?
That's a fair question. I have answers. The straightforward answer is that a hatch farm consumes minerals and labor (food and oxygen) and it produces eggshell, meat, and coal. A hot steam tamer consumes nothing and produces power and water. To me, this makes them substantially different solutions that are best applied in substantially different situations depending on the state of your resources and needs. For example, if you are short on water then a hatch farm doesn't seem helpful, and if you haven't made plastic yet then it doesn't make much sense to harness a steam vent. Still, perhaps the better answer is that players often prefer to focus on optimizing the utilization of all the resources at their disposal, and that's the primary goal of this build... how to squeeze every drop out of a stream vent.
Please note that the tuner only keeps the turbines cool, so it's off most of the time. The turbines don't work at their full capacity either, but there a lot of energy in that steam and the power output would probably outrun a hatch stable for most vents.
500 degrees... shit man ive got 2 vents over 900 degrees...
All steam vents are the same temperature. 500C or 932F.
That’s too complicated to build in survival
The second half of the video demonstrates how to build it in survival.