I am an auto technician and I have considered this a couple times, wasn't sure of the best method. My grandmother had a car that had a small bypass hose that costed an inordinate amount of money for what is essentially a tube... So at the time I just made an enormous loop to avoid a kink. It worked perfectly and truly ironically I bought several feet of hose for less than the cost of the molded hose.
The more you do them, the better it gets each time. You'll get to the point when no one is able to tell the difference between OEM hose and your custom made one. Thank you for watching!
Just a point to make those pipe bending springs are used to bend copper pipe and fit on the outside of the pipe… that ones that go inside the pipe have a loop that that’s attached to a cord to be able to pull back out after bending 👍🏼good video buddy
Really good vid! Thanks for the wonderful video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music. I don't know why some people feel compelled to add annoying background music throughout their videos.
I recognize your accent. My grandfather in Poland use to feel pipes, hoses e.t.c. with fine sand. With both ends plugged he could bend stuff in any shape without kinks or diameter reduction on corners.
The OEM parts are made by; extruding rubber compond to form the inner tube at a smaller internal diameter than finished, then a loose braid reinforcement is woven over that, and then an outer tube layer is extruded over the inner/mesh. This is uncured rubber compound. This raw tube can be made in km lengths in a co-extrusion production run. It's stinkin ch!t to work with. The straight raw tube is cut to length to suit the component. It is closed into a metal clam shell mold form of the exact size. The tube is plugged and pressure inflated to form the unkinked inner and outer shape form. The inflated tube mold is then heat cured in an autoclave some time, cooled, then the clam shell mold opened. The rubber compound is thermosetting. Once heat cured it cannot be remolded or reshaped. Because the inner tube is smaller and the textile reo is loose and can slip between the outer there is NO tension in the reinforcement trying to resist the hard set bends, the finished product will always retain the shape... in fact resist deformation, just like the straight tube. Thats the problem with this method - the reinforcement mesh embedded in the tube resist tension loading, bending and pressure deformation. The rubber resists stretch and compression when bending, so it fights to retain the shape it was when cured - straight. The better choice of tube would be reinforced PVC because it is a thermo-forming compound, rather than a thermo-setting compound... and so, heated enough, inflated and molded then cooled there will be more chance of having the reo textile comfortably shift within the easily formed plastic. Remember, you can put the bending spring around the outside of the tube when forming plastic, but air pressure is needed to inflate for no kinks.
Thank you for great feedback! I've re-read couple of times to make sure I follow your suggestions/explanations and it all makes sense. Of course, my method isn't ideal, but so far it worked. Just keep in mind I wasn't trying to get perfect OEM part (although it would be nice), I was simply trying to get something close enough considering budget and time. Either way, your explanation is very informative and useful. Appreciate your feedback and hopefully others will find that informative as well. Thank you for watching!
For 1 year yes after i don't know, i installed it since 1 year on my rv fiat ducato. My engine run particularly cool around 80c 100c peak maximum for a minute or two. With modern engine how can get to 130c peak and build a lot more pressure 2.5bars for somes, i don't know if it's suitable but for old one .... pvc seams to do the job. @calthorp Edit: i speak about textile renforced pvc hose. The non renforced one does last more than 2 mn in this case.
You can also put the rubber hose in boiling water with springs inside and bent to your shape with zip ties holding it in place, then put under cold water to set it. no need to wait for 2 hours.
I think immersion in Hot water will allow for more even heating of the hose perhaps? I've got heat gun and gloves but I think the hot water is going to be a safer option as well? In this guy's case, he's doing a coolant pipe so the water going through the pipe is going to re heat that pipe and it's going to try to counter act the shaping just done? I know with some older V8 motors that didn't run a decent bypass pressure valve in the water pump; they would often suffer from the radiator lines collapsing in on themselves whilst in operation so these "springs" were often used permanently in place inside the coolant hose to prevent collapse? With that in mind, it maybe perhaps something this guy can do to stop the hose kinking as the coolant becomes hot and tries to reshape the hose back to it's previous shape?
Yes, that would be better option if it's possible (some shape is hard to fix in place while putting in the boiling water, but zip ties will do the trick). Thank you for alternative option. Thank you for watching!
@@jameshatton4211 It has been couple of months and I constantly checking this hose to make sure it haven't kinked. So far, it still preserves the shape I gave after my second attempt at 9:26. No issues so far even though it's a coolant hose and runs hot liquid. I think the hose that I got from the store was fuel hose - so it's pretty thick and it wouldn't be that easy to re-shape it with hot liquid going through it as long as it stays in place.
Packed sand should work as long as it's not too sharp of an angle. Yes, if you don't have a spring of right size, use your creativity as DIY man. I've read people use sand (as you are), one person even suggested to use wooden board, nails, and screws to create a shape. So, just use your creativity as DIY, if it doesn't work, try something else. That's how I got to this method.
Glad to help. Let us know hot it works out for you. The more you practice, the better it gets each time. So, if it doesn't work from the first time, try it again. Good luck!
Hey! In industrial hose making you make a metal form to the exact shape you want and then put a flexible hose over the form and stick the whole thing in an oven to bake.
@@makingcookingfixing The hose doesn't harden it stays flexible but with a new shape. It just remolds itself so - the form can slip out the way it went on.
Some people may be concerned about weakening the hose with the heat, but it will most likely not be an issue. Because when the hoses fail, it is usually not in the middle. They usually fail near the clamp, which is not the area that you have to heat up. The factory bent hose is better, but sometimes you need to make do with something like this because of budget concerns or lack of availability of the factory hose.
Thanks for that little spring and applied heat demon station to the rubber hoses. I have found that if you just apply a little heat to where the inside of the bend will be for you bend it. Then continue applying heat after the hose is bent the heat will be more consistent around the rubber making the hose except the bend better. Thanks again.
I prefer boiling water , but its really only good for fresh builds as its a slow process, but works BEAUTIFULLY! Another tip, even if not benfding forming, use the heat gun to heat ends brfore slipping over pipe nipple. then clamp when warm, NOT hot or it will sqweeze out the hose too much. Best wishes,I built diesel power units for awhile, and did this all day long. You get tough hands doing this, those big 3" inch suction hoses are a beast to form!
Boiling water works as well, it is just much slower process. I think boiling water is much easier on big hoses (as you mentioned 3'' in larger) since the heat uniformly distributed. For smaller hoses, heat gun works just as good. Thank you for watching!
Ok. I don't know the "butter" temperature one would need, but I have conjured up some tweaks for your mousetrap that may result in a smoother more uniform part using the same materials. -make a jig on the bench -stuff hose full of sand and tamp it down -bury hose in a box of sand -heat in oven at (magic) temp for (enough) minutes -pluck hose place in jig (leaving sand inside) -maybe dump hot sand on it -let it cool overnight There! I just wrote your next script! (btw, thank you BTW, for explaining how the real thing is done. Love to learn.) Thanks, mans!
Thank you for the script! There are multiple viewers who suggested the same method. I personally haven't tried yet, but I'm going to for sure next time I need a hose. There's always spot for improvement and improvisation especially for DIY guys. Thank you for watching!
Interesting… I imagine a small amount of dish soap added could make it even smoother… thanks for the tip! I will try it next time I have a need to cut “sticky” rubber hose!
Thank you for your kind words and watching the video. That's exactly the purpose of my channel - to make something useful and share it with others. Glad you found it helpful!
There's always something goes not according to the plan even with the easiest maintenance. I describe most of thing that could go wrong or went wrong. Again, the more you do that sort of things such DIY, the easier it gets with all the experience you have. Yes, first time you do it maybe sloppy and not as good as you wish, but it gets better with each attempt. Glad you found it useful and thank you for watching!
It'll come handy for sure. No need to run 10 different stores, wasting hours online searching particular shape for a hose. BTW I've also changed my PVC hose with this method. It does not need as much bend so was whole a lot easier. Thank you for watching!
Looks very good. This is a great method; and thanks for the pointer at the end for making an o-shaped bend to stop it from kinking after the engine is warm.
For the hose not to get kinky you can bend it to a wider angle and play with the length, most times placement allows you to do that so it solves the problem by not strictly following the factory curve. For example a U hose can be make it a little longer so it doesn't kink, for an L shape you can cut it shorter so to stretch the 90 degree angle and so on. I need to find those springs, there were a lot of times i needed this to build my hoses from straight ones cause i ended up modifying old ones or connect them with L joints etc.
Links to the variety of springs in the description of the video. Yes, it is a lot easier to work with longer hoses and give them the shape you need. The U-shape you mentioned, requires less force to form it. Just make sure you heat it up well enough to preserve the shape, because once you cut it, it might not be enough of curvature and it will start to kink. That's what I explained at 9:26. It may take several trials before you get it perfect. The more you do, the more experience you get and it gets easier. Thank you for watching!
I do this from time to time when I’m doing LS engine swaps. I do it for radiator hoses. After inserting the spring I usually use baling wire, or tie wire to hold it in its “bent” shape during heating and cooling. You can also use nails or screws that are in a piece of wood. Just thread the hose around/between the nails, and go to work!
You can possibly use the metal spring on the outside of hose, which will keep it from kinking, just cut spring to length, and buffer the cut end to prevent sharp cut from damaging hose
That could possibly work. I've never tried it, but I considered it. The only issue with this method I could think of is if metal spring tube is outside of the hose, and you get it red hot, it might burn through the hose. It is unlikely since the hoses are pretty durable. but I still could damaged the hose.
Another option is to use armored aircraft hoses. You can bend them most any which way without compromising strength, and they look cool too. I also needed a fuel filler hose for an old Jeep Cherokee that went from the filler assembly to the tank, and I couldn't find one until I went to the local Aircraft Fixed Base Operator, who had the size I needed in bulk. It wasn't armored, but it was rated for Avgas, and solved the problem. It came with supporting ridges for bending up to 160 degrees without collapsing, but my application was a straight shot, so that was overkill. Most any aircraft hydraulic shop can put the fittings on for you while you wait, if you need that as well. Not cheap, but it cost less than the driving around I did looking for a solution.
Thank you. A lot of viewers also recommend boiling water instead of heat gun since it puts less stress on a hose and does not damage it as much. I've learned a lot myself from the comments here! People suggest use send instead of bendable spring tubes and it works. There are a lot of great suggestions in the comments. Thank you!
Good video, might need to try that. I just looped the hose like you did @ 10:39 to get the 90 degree angle, but had plenty of clearance for the loop.No heat needed if you have room.
Yes, if you have plenty of room, you don't actually need to preserve the shape. The whole idea about preserving the shape, so it won't kink. But if you have long range and no more than 90 degree angle then you can simply put a hose as is without preserving a shape. Just keep an eye on it and make sure it does not kink overtime, especially if it is one of the coolant hoses - hot liquid makes it more flexible and it's more likely to kink. Thank you for watching!
Cool video, learned some stuff for sure. I was using the same technique recently to flare a hose end so it could fit two different diameters. Had to oversize the object inside to what I needed so when removed it was correct. Similar to you saying it might need over bent. Used basically the same technique but cooled under water and it worked great.
Glad you found useful. Yes, if you sit on something and you're DIY type of guy, you can always come up with a solution that will save you money and time. That's the point! Thank you for watching!
I did something similar except I formed it then baked it in a cheap countertop oven I keep in the shop for heating non-food stuff. You can often find them in thrift shops. Give it a chance to become thoroughly heat soaked. The temperature I used was about 325 degrees for 20 or so minutes then let it cool gradually The hose has been holding up just fine without changing shape in use.
Kudos at 9:25 I also like to include learning mistakes in my videos when possible. It may not make me look like a genius but it seems like it would be more helpful to the audience. BTW I use a welding table Ill make a video soon and show you what Im talking about.
Over an inch is possible. I found something on amazon that may help: a.co/d/9AWbFYa You have to just search on ebay, amazon and etc. I'm sure they do make such springs, just a matter of getting exact size you need and finding it online. Just in case if won't find anything you need, read through comments here. There are a lot of suggestions how you can achieve similar results with other tools/methods, such as filling it with sand and boil it in water. There are a lot of tips viewers left around here. I haven't tried them personally, but I can see them work
Thanks for the video, excellent guide and very useful. Another tip is to smear some washing up liquid on the rubber pipe before you cut it with your knife, slices like butter.😀
@ngtitovWorldOfCars This looks like a great and moneysaving technique. The thought occurs that you may get as good a result without the expense of purchasing bending springs by filling the tube with SAND. That will provide internal bulk and prevent kinking and also absorbs heat so will possibly aid in curing the bend. You could most likely just use corks or garden hose stoppers to seal the sand in the tube and then follow the same technique you used. When it has set and cooled its easy to pour out the sand afterwards. I know sand was used as an aid to bend metal tubes, so no reason why it would not work with rubber.
I did a similar method before, but with sand. Tighten a clamp at one end over a screw or bolt, pack it with sand, and shove another screw at the other end, with a clamp. Tighten. ANd it must be tight so it wont pop out. Heat, bend, and then cool. I heard some using oil inside the hose, or something non flammable, but I used sand. Redid a small heater core hose, and many, many brake lines (though with brake lines you dont need to heat)
Plug one end of the hose. Fill hose with sand. Plug remaining end of hose. Heat and bend and secure the shape until it is cool. Open the ends and remove the sand. WASH THE HOSE OUT. Let dry and you are good to go.
@@robertsmith2956 240 may not be hot enough to effect a permanent bend. Radiator water can go past 200F. With the right radiator cap, you can reach 240F.
Thank you for sharing this method! Multiple people have suggested the send as well. I think at least dozen of people, but I never tried it myself, but I'm going to for sure next time I need a custom made hose. If dozen of people suggested it, I bet it'll work. Again thank you for sharing and watching the video!
Great video. I knew about springs and I have a heat gun but these demos were helpful esp for an older car that needs new hoses. I would recommend shortening the video to 5 min or a little less. Lay out all the hoses, springs, heat gun etc on a brown piece of paper and name + price next to each one and video and say something like: "today I'm going to uses these tools to make straight hoses to look like this - bent hoses"....
Thank you very much for suggestions and great feedback. I will try to shorten my next videos - those are all great advices you provided. Glad you found it useful! Thank you for watching!
@@ngtitovWorldOfCars you’re welcome and you could possibly add a little bit of background music but just keep the volume of the music way down so you almost don’t hear it. You’ve got good ideas and I like the hose bending because it’s out of the ordinary a lot of channels kind of get a hold of the same types of how to videos and just keep repeating stuff that people already have seen. Also, the hose bending is important on an older car where you’ve really gotta stay on very tight budget Which reminds me of one last tip you could show the cost of the bulk hose in the beginning per foot compared to buying some prevent finished parts at like 5X the price.
I have bent both steel and PVC pipe by heating (with either a torch or heat gun) after filling with well tamped sand and plugging the ends. This technique might well work on hoses. Of course, you'd want to make sure you completely remove the sand from the hose afterwards.
Can you make a video once you had a customized part in use for a longer time? Curious how the materials will last after the heat treatment and bending. I'd guess they'll last a while, or as a placeholder when on a tight budget, but I'd bet not anything near to a factory made part...
Will do. But just FYI, it's been about 6 months or so since I replaced that a little hose, and I have no problems with that whatsoever. I still stays in the shape I gave, and it doesn't kink. I'll wait for other 6 months and will give an update. Thank you for watching!
Is boiling hot water hot enough to soften the rubber hose to shape it. I don't like the idea of "smelling burnt rubber" which indicates hose deterioration.
Have you tried just putting some nails or screws in wood to suit the shape. Use some short aluminium tubing over the nails to protect the rubber. Insert the mandrels. Heat the hose while straight so you get the whole way around. Then place in your nail jig. Continue to heat for a minute or so them let it cool, or pour water on it.
I haven't tried that, but I can see it could work. This could be a little more time consuming process, BUT if you need to shape relative long hose where spring tube benders won't reach, this is the way to go for sure!
You could try making a jig/former/shaper out of plywood/wood/etc and nails (the old preformed hose would be helpful in setting up the jig ) and that one you did in this video could have used a piece of 2x4 and nails or a similar , like dowels . The nails or similar are what form/keep the rubber hose into place while heating and if the heat doesn't work then maybe epoxy/etc might help . I would also try forming the ends so the hose goes on a little easier , if needed .
Boiling hot water and string, wire wrapped around the outside works too. Then you can shape it anyway you want drop it in water for 10 min pull it out and put in the freezer.The steel wire won't get hot enough to melt into the hose
Good tips , never seen those little spring-kits before . The tube would have less 'kink' if had been a little-shorter and able to straighten-out slightly once it heated-up . Dave nz
You can also plug one end, fill it with sand, then plug the other end with the same results but it can be used on any length of tubing. You can also use this method to bend PVC pipe.
Wow, I just realized that I've somehow acquired the ability to predict that a presenter is going to speak English like they have a mouth full of marbles just by looking at them. I literally heard this guys voice in my head before I "clicked" play......no joke. I'm kinda freaking out right now. Good information presented.
I don't see why not. Unless, it's a very tiny hose and by leaving the spring in there will prevent a liquid from its normal flow. On bigger hoses, I think you can. Also, make sure to use stainless steel spring so it won't rust in the hose.
Just a thought, try putting the hot bent hoses into a ice water bath to speed up the cooling process to save a little time. your method works if your not in a hurry , but if you have one vehicle and you do this, your out of action for awhile. good video though.
They are external springs for copper pipe. If you are goi g to use them internally, tie some copper cable to the far end and feed it back through the centre amd pull it out usimg that. Otherwise kt doesnt take long to ruin your spring.
A more economic method is to hard pack sand into the hose to retain the internal wall integrity whilst bending. The same method works on copper pipes for water supply plumbing. There will be videos showing the packed sand method, that's how I learned about it.
Putting the hot rubber directly in the freezer after clamping it will make it stronger and ready to use faster. The same with welding plastic, immediately put it in the freezer or use ice cubes and it will be stronger than air cooling!
Think if an OEM part is available that would be better. If your hose gets a a kink after some time it may overheat & wreck your engine. Probably ok for the heater hoses though. Thanks for the video.
Well done..! Wondering if you could pack hoses with dry sand, ends closed, form to shape with string ties, and bake in the microwave..? No project here at the moment to try, you..?
It's great idea, but few things to keep in mind. First, even if you try to pack a hose with dry sand (ends closed), it'll still kink if you bend it at sharper angle and either sand or string ties won't prevent from kinking it. You'd still need to use spring tube bender or something else to give it a shape and avoid kinking it. Second, microwave works based on the electromagnetic waves and it only works on dipole molecules (e.g. water based ingredients). If you put something dry into microwave, such as dry sand, it won't even heat it up. Thus, to preserve the shape, you'd have to bake it in the oven at high temperature. Those are just small details, but it's worth trying. As one of the viewers suggested in the comments that's how industrial hoses are made - metal shape is created first and then hose is put over the metal form and the entire thing is sent to the oven to bake. It is absolutely worth trying. Thank you for your suggestion and watching the video!
@@ngtitovWorldOfCars sand should work as long as you properly plug one end pack(ram) the sand and then plug (with fitting) the other end. It works for pipe and tubing but may take way longer to heat and cool. So your way is faster.
@@snowgorilla9789 I had to search for sand and here we are. It works great with copper tubing. I was most interested on the heating part. While watching, I would use a board with inside half of the shape nailed in position, heat it and put it in place and add the outside nail to hold it there. The ole Toyota Corolla, it has a number of those custom hoses and I was wondering while switching engines if I was going to run into this problem, but got lucky. When you buy sand make sure it is dry, last one I got was wet, bought sight unseen, which was a pain when needed in -20 below weather.
@@ProfessorOzone Yes, beware of Bard's advice, I used to grind aircraft cranks on up to large diesels, I would definitely make sure the process left no sand in it. Just made a trailer drum balancer, boy howdy is it off, ~1.5"X1.5" cube of steel. Now thinking of tapping for two screws and pour lead in a clay dam form, I assumed I would have to machine off material, but that ain't happen, must add. I made an aluminum part that hangs on where the grease cap goes, not fun stetting it on nicely with a mirror solo.
I've done this for subtle changes without the mandrel. It's a great idea. Heat also helps with tight hose to nipple fit.
I am an auto technician and I have considered this a couple times, wasn't sure of the best method.
My grandmother had a car that had a small bypass hose that costed an inordinate amount of money for what is essentially a tube... So at the time I just made an enormous loop to avoid a kink. It worked perfectly and truly ironically I bought several feet of hose for less than the cost of the molded hose.
The more you do them, the better it gets each time. You'll get to the point when no one is able to tell the difference between OEM hose and your custom made one. Thank you for watching!
Just a point to make those pipe bending springs are used to bend copper pipe and fit on the outside of the pipe… that ones that go inside the pipe have a loop that that’s attached to a cord to be able to pull back out after bending 👍🏼good video buddy
Thank you for watching!
Thank you so much, my father wanted to change a couple of special bent hoses in my 1979 celica, and now I can show him this so we can do it.
This is one of the best tips I have seen in a long time. Tumbs up!
Thank you for watching!
I like it a lot as well cheers from Texas
@@ngtitovWorldOfCars This is great. thanks, also from Texas.
Thank you so much. Great job. This is what you tube is all about. Not the ad's .
Thank you very much! Glad it was helpful!
110%
Really good vid! Thanks for the wonderful video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music.
I don't know why some people feel compelled to add annoying background music throughout their videos.
Glad you found it useful. Thank you for watching!
I recognize your accent. My grandfather in Poland use to feel pipes, hoses e.t.c. with fine sand. With both ends plugged he could bend stuff in any shape without kinks or diameter reduction on corners.
That's how I was taught by my Dad back in the 60s when I was 16.
Thank you for the alternative way! Thank you for watching!
I watched a brake line video where the guy filled them with fine sand to stop them from kinking.
@@tellyfaulkner3466 Be nice having sand in your break lines! lol
You obviously flush them before use dude...don't be daft.
The OEM parts are made by; extruding rubber compond to form the inner tube at a smaller internal diameter than finished, then a loose braid reinforcement is woven over that, and then an outer tube layer is extruded over the inner/mesh. This is uncured rubber compound. This raw tube can be made in km lengths in a co-extrusion production run. It's stinkin ch!t to work with.
The straight raw tube is cut to length to suit the component. It is closed into a metal clam shell mold form of the exact size. The tube is plugged and pressure inflated to form the unkinked inner and outer shape form. The inflated tube mold is then heat cured in an autoclave some time, cooled, then the clam shell mold opened.
The rubber compound is thermosetting. Once heat cured it cannot be remolded or reshaped.
Because the inner tube is smaller and the textile reo is loose and can slip between the outer there is NO tension in the reinforcement trying to resist the hard set bends, the finished product will always retain the shape... in fact resist deformation, just like the straight tube.
Thats the problem with this method - the reinforcement mesh embedded in the tube resist tension loading, bending and pressure deformation. The rubber resists stretch and compression when bending, so it fights to retain the shape it was when cured - straight.
The better choice of tube would be reinforced PVC because it is a thermo-forming compound, rather than a thermo-setting compound... and so, heated enough, inflated and molded then cooled there will be more chance of having the reo textile comfortably shift within the easily formed plastic.
Remember, you can put the bending spring around the outside of the tube when forming plastic, but air pressure is needed to inflate for no kinks.
Thank you for great feedback! I've re-read couple of times to make sure I follow your suggestions/explanations and it all makes sense. Of course, my method isn't ideal, but so far it worked. Just keep in mind I wasn't trying to get perfect OEM part (although it would be nice), I was simply trying to get something close enough considering budget and time. Either way, your explanation is very informative and useful. Appreciate your feedback and hopefully others will find that informative as well. Thank you for watching!
Do you think the PVC will be able to handle 100 C & pressure?
Dude. This info is available no where else on the internet, and then 6 months later RUclips brings me here. Thank you.
For 1 year yes after i don't know, i installed it since 1 year on my rv fiat ducato.
My engine run particularly cool around 80c 100c peak maximum for a minute or two.
With modern engine how can get to 130c peak and build a lot more pressure 2.5bars for somes, i don't know if it's suitable but for old one .... pvc seams to do the job. @calthorp
Edit: i speak about textile renforced pvc hose. The non renforced one does last more than 2 mn in this case.
@@tintinlavigne5257 I guess if you are stuck waiting for parts it would be a good choice.
You can also put the rubber hose in boiling water with springs inside and bent to your shape with zip ties holding it in place, then put under cold water to set it. no need to wait for 2 hours.
I was wondering the same thing. Boiling water will act on a stress point simultaneously.
I think immersion in Hot water will allow for more even heating of the hose perhaps?
I've got heat gun and gloves but I think the hot water is going to be a safer option as well?
In this guy's case, he's doing a coolant pipe so the water going through the pipe is going to re heat that pipe and it's going to try to counter act the shaping just done?
I know with some older V8 motors that didn't run a decent bypass pressure valve in the water pump; they would often suffer from the radiator lines collapsing in on themselves whilst in operation so these "springs" were often used permanently in place inside the coolant hose to prevent collapse?
With that in mind, it maybe perhaps something this guy can do to stop the hose kinking as the coolant becomes hot and tries to reshape the hose back to it's previous shape?
Yes, that would be better option if it's possible (some shape is hard to fix in place while putting in the boiling water, but zip ties will do the trick). Thank you for alternative option. Thank you for watching!
@@jameshatton4211 It has been couple of months and I constantly checking this hose to make sure it haven't kinked. So far, it still preserves the shape I gave after my second attempt at 9:26. No issues so far even though it's a coolant hose and runs hot liquid. I think the hose that I got from the store was fuel hose - so it's pretty thick and it wouldn't be that easy to re-shape it with hot liquid going through it as long as it stays in place.
I like that everyone contributes their input on the comment. I subscribe bro
Great video. If you cannot find the correct spring size, I have used fine sand packed in
Packed sand should work as long as it's not too sharp of an angle. Yes, if you don't have a spring of right size, use your creativity as DIY man. I've read people use sand (as you are), one person even suggested to use wooden board, nails, and screws to create a shape. So, just use your creativity as DIY, if it doesn't work, try something else. That's how I got to this method.
@@ngtitovWorldOfCars salt can also work, and can be easier to remove from small diameter hose.
Thanks for sharing your technique for shaping off the shelf hose to match OEM parts. I just need to purchase the K&S Engineering tools.
Glad to help. Let us know hot it works out for you. The more you practice, the better it gets each time. So, if it doesn't work from the first time, try it again. Good luck!
Hey! In industrial hose making you make a metal form to the exact shape you want and then put a flexible hose over the form and stick the whole thing in an oven to bake.
And how do you get the form out?
@@makingcookingfixing The hose doesn't harden it stays flexible but with a new shape. It just remolds itself so - the form can slip out the way it went on.
At what temperature and for how long?
I tend to overcook stuff
Nearly right. Do you boil your eggs twice?
This is a great idea. Some of those little hoses are insanely expensive if you buy them OEM.
This is a great tip for making obsolete or hard to find hoses.
Thank you! Glad you found it useful.
Some people may be concerned about weakening the hose with the heat, but it will most likely not be an issue. Because when the hoses fail, it is usually not in the middle. They usually fail near the clamp, which is not the area that you have to heat up. The factory bent hose is better, but sometimes you need to make do with something like this because of budget concerns or lack of availability of the factory hose.
I like how you showed your mistake and the fix. We learn more from that.
Sir. You are the type of person that should be making a comfortable living from making RUclips content. Original. Helpful. Well done video. Thank you
Glad you found this helpful and thank you for watching!
Excellent help , thanks .
Thanks for that little spring and applied heat demon station to the rubber hoses. I have found that if you just apply a little heat to where the inside of the bend will be for you bend it. Then continue applying heat after the hose is bent the heat will be more consistent around the rubber making the hose except the bend better. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!
I prefer boiling water , but its really only good for fresh builds as its a slow process, but works BEAUTIFULLY! Another tip, even if not benfding forming, use the heat gun to heat ends brfore slipping over pipe nipple. then clamp when warm, NOT hot or it will sqweeze out the hose too much. Best wishes,I built diesel power units for awhile, and did this all day long. You get tough hands doing this, those big 3" inch suction hoses are a beast to form!
Boiling water works as well, it is just much slower process. I think boiling water is much easier on big hoses (as you mentioned 3'' in larger) since the heat uniformly distributed. For smaller hoses, heat gun works just as good. Thank you for watching!
Ok. I don't know the "butter" temperature one would need, but I have conjured up some tweaks for your mousetrap that may result in a smoother more uniform part using the same materials.
-make a jig on the bench
-stuff hose full of sand and tamp it down
-bury hose in a box of sand
-heat in oven at (magic) temp for (enough) minutes
-pluck hose place in jig (leaving sand inside)
-maybe dump hot sand on it
-let it cool overnight
There! I just wrote your next script!
(btw, thank you BTW, for explaining how the real thing is done. Love to learn.)
Thanks, mans!
Thank you for the script! There are multiple viewers who suggested the same method. I personally haven't tried yet, but I'm going to for sure next time I need a hose. There's always spot for improvement and improvisation especially for DIY guys. Thank you for watching!
That video is exactly why I watch RUclips excellent. subbed on this video
Thank you for watching!
I am impressed. You sir are an example to be followed. Thank you very much.
Thank you very much! Glad it was helpful and thank you for watching!
Great video. I'd like to add my 2 cents. You can fill the hose with dry sand instead of using a spring. Sand works just as well.
Good idea. Especially the over bending to compensate for kinking when hot water in pipe.
Gaz UK
I have used these springs for bending brass mainly, it never occurred to me to try this. 👍👍
It will work! Thank you for watching!
Somebody buy this man some new gloves! Great video
😅 Thank you for watching! These gloves is waste that's why I used them so hit won't destroy what is already destroyed.
Rubber cuts clean and very easy when you wet the material and knife with water.
Thank you for the tip!
Gardening Secateurs cut rubber tube nicely 👍
Interesting… I imagine a small amount of dish soap added could make it even smoother… thanks for the tip! I will try it next time I have a need to cut “sticky” rubber hose!
This is a great video about something useful. So much better than so many things on RUclips. I’ll subscribe! Good fortune on your channel!
Thank you for your kind words and watching the video. That's exactly the purpose of my channel - to make something useful and share it with others. Glad you found it helpful!
This is certainly something I may try in the future if I am unable to find a replacement formed hose for one of my older vehicles. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching!
Great information and thank you for being honest about what went wrong and how to correct it.
There's always something goes not according to the plan even with the easiest maintenance. I describe most of thing that could go wrong or went wrong. Again, the more you do that sort of things such DIY, the easier it gets with all the experience you have. Yes, first time you do it maybe sloppy and not as good as you wish, but it gets better with each attempt. Glad you found it useful and thank you for watching!
Great video, this will come in very handy in the future. Wished I knew this a few months ago when I replaced the PVC hose on our Lexus.
PCV hose perhaps?
@@sladeherb4056 😆 Yeah, I thought it looked odd when I posted this. I was sleepy.
It'll come handy for sure. No need to run 10 different stores, wasting hours online searching particular shape for a hose. BTW I've also changed my PVC hose with this method. It does not need as much bend so was whole a lot easier. Thank you for watching!
Looks very good. This is a great method; and thanks for the pointer at the end for making an o-shaped bend to stop it from kinking after the engine is warm.
For the hose not to get kinky you can bend it to a wider angle and play with the length, most times placement allows you to do that so it solves the problem by not strictly following the factory curve. For example a U hose can be make it a little longer so it doesn't kink, for an L shape you can cut it shorter so to stretch the 90 degree angle and so on.
I need to find those springs, there were a lot of times i needed this to build my hoses from straight ones cause i ended up modifying old ones or connect them with L joints etc.
Links to the variety of springs in the description of the video. Yes, it is a lot easier to work with longer hoses and give them the shape you need. The U-shape you mentioned, requires less force to form it. Just make sure you heat it up well enough to preserve the shape, because once you cut it, it might not be enough of curvature and it will start to kink. That's what I explained at 9:26. It may take several trials before you get it perfect. The more you do, the more experience you get and it gets easier. Thank you for watching!
Where space permits it I have used a longer piece of hose & made it into a large circular loop. This prevents kinking but it's not as neat.
I do this from time to time when I’m doing LS engine swaps. I do it for radiator hoses. After inserting the spring I usually use baling wire, or tie wire to hold it in its “bent” shape during heating and cooling. You can also use nails or screws that are in a piece of wood. Just thread the hose around/between the nails, and go to work!
Thank you. I always wondered how to create the custom bends for certain hoses. Great video.
Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching!
You can possibly use the metal spring on the outside of hose, which will keep it from kinking, just cut spring to length, and buffer the cut end to prevent sharp cut from damaging hose
That could possibly work. I've never tried it, but I considered it. The only issue with this method I could think of is if metal spring tube is outside of the hose, and you get it red hot, it might burn through the hose. It is unlikely since the hoses are pretty durable. but I still could damaged the hose.
@@ngtitovWorldOfCars if something is causing the metal to get THAT HOT, you have other issues to worry about🎯😁
Another option is to use armored aircraft hoses. You can bend them most any which way without compromising strength, and they look cool too. I also needed a fuel filler hose for an old Jeep Cherokee that went from the filler assembly to the tank, and I couldn't find one until I went to the local Aircraft Fixed Base Operator, who had the size I needed in bulk. It wasn't armored, but it was rated for Avgas, and solved the problem. It came with supporting ridges for bending up to 160 degrees without collapsing, but my application was a straight shot, so that was overkill. Most any aircraft hydraulic shop can put the fittings on for you while you wait, if you need that as well. Not cheap, but it cost less than the driving around I did looking for a solution.
Very good video. Boiling water also works wonders with rubber and plastic types of hosing.
Thank you. A lot of viewers also recommend boiling water instead of heat gun since it puts less stress on a hose and does not damage it as much. I've learned a lot myself from the comments here! People suggest use send instead of bendable spring tubes and it works. There are a lot of great suggestions in the comments. Thank you!
Good video, might need to try that. I just looped the hose like you did @ 10:39 to get the 90 degree angle, but had plenty of clearance for the loop.No heat needed if you have room.
Yes, if you have plenty of room, you don't actually need to preserve the shape. The whole idea about preserving the shape, so it won't kink. But if you have long range and no more than 90 degree angle then you can simply put a hose as is without preserving a shape. Just keep an eye on it and make sure it does not kink overtime, especially if it is one of the coolant hoses - hot liquid makes it more flexible and it's more likely to kink. Thank you for watching!
Necessity is the mother of invention…. Great idea🤠👍
Exactly! Thank you for watching!
Great video man! Thank you I learned a lot from this video 👍🏼
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching!
Very good detail. Sometime the OEM part is not available, this will do the trick. Thanks.
I like this tip. Very useful. Thanks brother!
Thank you!
Cool video, learned some stuff for sure. I was using the same technique recently to flare a hose end so it could fit two different diameters. Had to oversize the object inside to what I needed so when removed it was correct. Similar to you saying it might need over bent. Used basically the same technique but cooled under water and it worked great.
Glad you found useful. Yes, if you sit on something and you're DIY type of guy, you can always come up with a solution that will save you money and time. That's the point! Thank you for watching!
Excellent content. Applies to other disciplines as well. Thank you!
Glad you found it useful! Thank you for watching!
I did something similar except I formed it then baked it in a cheap countertop oven I keep in the shop for heating non-food stuff. You can often find them in thrift shops. Give it a chance to become thoroughly heat soaked. The temperature I used was about 325 degrees for 20 or so minutes then let it cool gradually The hose has been holding up just fine without changing shape in use.
Kudos at 9:25 I also like to include learning mistakes in my videos when possible. It may not make me look like a genius but it seems like it would be more helpful to the audience. BTW I use a welding table Ill make a video soon and show you what Im talking about.
Парень точно с головой! Я получил отличный опыт.
Thanks for the video, not my question is do they make the spring any bigger? What I need is over an inch.
Over an inch is possible. I found something on amazon that may help: a.co/d/9AWbFYa
You have to just search on ebay, amazon and etc. I'm sure they do make such springs, just a matter of getting exact size you need and finding it online.
Just in case if won't find anything you need, read through comments here. There are a lot of suggestions how you can achieve similar results with other tools/methods, such as filling it with sand and boil it in water. There are a lot of tips viewers left around here. I haven't tried them personally, but I can see them work
Thanks for the video, excellent guide and very useful. Another tip is to smear some washing up liquid on the rubber pipe before you cut it with your knife, slices like butter.😀
Glad you found it useful and thank you for the tip! Thank you for watching as well!
@@ngtitovWorldOfCars Thanks man.😀
washing up liquid meaning soap, or... ?
@@TireSlayer55 yes dish soap mate.😀
Excellent tip, im glad i watched
Glad you found it useful. Thank you for watching!
This is a great tip. You just earned another subscriber! 😉
Thank you for watching and subscribing. New videos will come out shortly.
handy tip. The best tip is at the end, to "overbend" the hose so it will settle to where you want
@ngtitovWorldOfCars This looks like a great and moneysaving technique. The thought occurs that you may get as good a result without the expense of purchasing bending springs by filling the tube with SAND. That will provide internal bulk and prevent kinking and also absorbs heat so will possibly aid in curing the bend. You could most likely just use corks or garden hose stoppers to seal the sand in the tube and then follow the same technique you used. When it has set and cooled its easy to pour out the sand afterwards. I know sand was used as an aid to bend metal tubes, so no reason why it would not work with rubber.
Very good idea! Never would have thought of it. Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
Kudos to you Sir !
Very cool video man. Saving this to my how-to playlist. Subscribed 👍🙏
Thank you!
I did a similar method before, but with sand. Tighten a clamp at one end over a screw or bolt, pack it with sand, and shove another screw at the other end, with a clamp. Tighten. ANd it must be tight so it wont pop out. Heat, bend, and then cool. I heard some using oil inside the hose, or something non flammable, but I used sand. Redid a small heater core hose, and many, many brake lines (though with brake lines you dont need to heat)
Plug one end of the hose. Fill hose with sand. Plug remaining end of hose.
Heat and bend and secure the shape until it is cool.
Open the ends and remove the sand.
WASH THE HOSE OUT. Let dry and you are good to go.
That's how I do it. No need for fancy springs that might get stuck...
Was thinking the same. That's how I've been doing it with some PVC piping projects.
radiator water is 200 degrees.
So "cook" hose at 240 in oven?
@@robertsmith2956 240 may not be hot enough to effect a permanent bend.
Radiator water can go past 200F.
With the right radiator cap, you can reach 240F.
Thank you for sharing this method! Multiple people have suggested the send as well. I think at least dozen of people, but I never tried it myself, but I'm going to for sure next time I need a custom made hose. If dozen of people suggested it, I bet it'll work. Again thank you for sharing and watching the video!
Tubing bender spring. This was intended for bending copper tubing to shape but this is another use.
Great video my brother! I really learned from you - gonna use this method when I need a custom hose when none are available 😊
Thank you for watching it!
Great video. I knew about springs and I have a heat gun but these demos were helpful esp for an older car that needs new hoses. I would recommend shortening the video to 5 min or a little less. Lay out all the hoses, springs, heat gun etc on a brown piece of paper and name + price next to each one and video and say something like: "today I'm going to uses these tools to make straight hoses to look like this - bent hoses"....
Thank you very much for suggestions and great feedback. I will try to shorten my next videos - those are all great advices you provided. Glad you found it useful! Thank you for watching!
@@ngtitovWorldOfCars you’re welcome and you could possibly add a little bit of background music but just keep the volume of the music way down so you almost don’t hear it. You’ve got good ideas and I like the hose bending because it’s out of the ordinary a lot of channels kind of get a hold of the same types of how to videos and just keep repeating stuff that people already have seen. Also, the hose bending is important on an older car where you’ve really gotta stay on very tight budget Which reminds me of one last tip you could show the cost of the bulk hose in the beginning per foot compared to buying some prevent finished parts at like 5X the price.
Never knew this process existed. Thanks!!
I have bent both steel and PVC pipe by heating (with either a torch or heat gun) after filling with well tamped sand and plugging the ends. This technique might well work on hoses. Of course, you'd want to make sure you completely remove the sand from the hose afterwards.
Perfectly explained and illestrated.
Thank you for watching!
Can you pressure test a hose that you've bent and compare it to one that you haven't bent? I think the heating might compromise the rubber.
Great job! Salute from Cary
Thank you!
Awesome, and so simple. Great video.
Thank you!
Can you make a video once you had a customized part in use for a longer time? Curious how the materials will last after the heat treatment and bending. I'd guess they'll last a while, or as a placeholder when on a tight budget, but I'd bet not anything near to a factory made part...
Will do. But just FYI, it's been about 6 months or so since I replaced that a little hose, and I have no problems with that whatsoever. I still stays in the shape I gave, and it doesn't kink. I'll wait for other 6 months and will give an update. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the video. It is very informative!
You are welcome! Thank you for watching!
Is boiling hot water hot enough to soften the rubber hose to shape it. I don't like the idea of "smelling burnt rubber" which indicates hose deterioration.
Have you tried just putting some nails or screws in wood to suit the shape. Use some short aluminium tubing over the nails to protect the rubber. Insert the mandrels. Heat the hose while straight so you get the whole way around. Then place in your nail jig. Continue to heat for a minute or so them let it cool, or pour water on it.
I haven't tried that, but I can see it could work. This could be a little more time consuming process, BUT if you need to shape relative long hose where spring tube benders won't reach, this is the way to go for sure!
I didn't know this. Thanks man.
Glad you learned something and it will save you time and money. Thank you for watching!
just learnt something interesting..... thank you very much !
You could try making a jig/former/shaper out of plywood/wood/etc and nails (the old preformed hose would be helpful in setting up the jig ) and that one you did in this video could have used a piece of 2x4 and nails or a similar , like dowels . The nails or similar are what form/keep the rubber hose into place while heating and if the heat doesn't work then maybe epoxy/etc might help . I would also try forming the ends so the hose goes on a little easier , if needed .
Boiling hot water and string, wire wrapped around the outside works too. Then you can shape it anyway you want drop it in water for 10 min pull it out and put in the freezer.The steel wire won't get hot enough to melt into the hose
Good tips , never seen those little spring-kits before . The tube would have less 'kink' if had been a little-shorter and able to straighten-out slightly once it heated-up . Dave nz
Thank you for watching!
You can also plug one end, fill it with sand, then plug the other end with the same results but it can be used on any length of tubing. You can also use this method to bend PVC pipe.
Wow, I just realized that I've somehow acquired the ability to predict that a presenter is going to speak English like they have a mouth full of marbles just by looking at them. I literally heard this guys voice in my head before I "clicked" play......no joke. I'm kinda freaking out right now. Good information presented.
I always wondered why my old school radiator hoses have coiled wire in them, Now I know why thank you
So they dont suck shut
I had one blow like a curly fry.
Great tips!
Thank you for watching!
Can I leave the spring inside and just use the spring to keep it from kinking?
I don't see why not. Unless, it's a very tiny hose and by leaving the spring in there will prevent a liquid from its normal flow. On bigger hoses, I think you can. Also, make sure to use stainless steel spring so it won't rust in the hose.
Great info, thanks for instructions, I wouldn't risk such on a new engine or rebuild, BUT a quick fix is OK
I think a cable tie might be a good way to hold it rather than a hose clamp?
FASTER ANYWAY GOOD OBSERVATION GOOD IDEA.
I've read from other viewers' comment, and give credit to them - use plastic zip ties? I never tried that myself, but I think it'll work.
Great Info :) great narration :) Philippines hard to find OEM for 1 liter bikes here. Downloaded to brain ty :)
Wow Imtiaz Ali also fixes cars! ❤
excellent tip and great presentation. thanks man!
You are very welcome! Glad you found it useful. Thank you for watching!
Great idea, but more suitable for gradual curves rather than tight curves, thank you
Great info! Thank you😊
Thank you!
Great technique to save money. Nice job. 😎
Great work!
Thank you!
Just a thought, try putting the hot bent hoses into a ice water bath to speed up the cooling process to save a little time. your method works if your not in a hurry , but if you have one vehicle and you do this, your out of action for awhile. good video though.
They are external springs for copper pipe. If you are goi g to use them internally, tie some copper cable to the far end and feed it back through the centre amd pull it out usimg that. Otherwise kt doesnt take long to ruin your spring.
I hope you enjoy your Rheem Water Heater as much as I do mine!
Thanks for the info, Just what I needed.
A more economic method is to hard pack sand into the hose to retain the internal wall integrity whilst bending.
The same method works on copper pipes for water supply plumbing.
There will be videos showing the packed sand method, that's how I learned about it.
Putting the hot rubber directly in the freezer after clamping it will make it stronger and ready to use faster. The same with welding plastic, immediately put it in the freezer or use ice cubes and it will be stronger than air cooling!
Think if an OEM part is available that would be better. If your hose gets a a kink after some time it may overheat & wreck your engine. Probably ok for the heater hoses though. Thanks for the video.
Well done..! Wondering if you could pack hoses with dry sand, ends closed, form to shape with string ties, and bake in the microwave..? No project here at the moment to try, you..?
It's great idea, but few things to keep in mind. First, even if you try to pack a hose with dry sand (ends closed), it'll still kink if you bend it at sharper angle and either sand or string ties won't prevent from kinking it. You'd still need to use spring tube bender or something else to give it a shape and avoid kinking it. Second, microwave works based on the electromagnetic waves and it only works on dipole molecules (e.g. water based ingredients). If you put something dry into microwave, such as dry sand, it won't even heat it up. Thus, to preserve the shape, you'd have to bake it in the oven at high temperature. Those are just small details, but it's worth trying. As one of the viewers suggested in the comments that's how industrial hoses are made - metal shape is created first and then hose is put over the metal form and the entire thing is sent to the oven to bake. It is absolutely worth trying. Thank you for your suggestion and watching the video!
@@ngtitovWorldOfCars sand should work as long as you properly plug one end pack(ram) the sand and then plug (with fitting) the other end. It works for pipe and tubing but may take way longer to heat and cool. So your way is faster.
@@snowgorilla9789 I had to search for sand and here we are. It works great with copper tubing. I was most interested on the heating part. While watching, I would use a board with inside half of the shape nailed in position, heat it and put it in place and add the outside nail to hold it there. The ole Toyota Corolla, it has a number of those custom hoses and I was wondering while switching engines if I was going to run into this problem, but got lucky. When you buy sand make sure it is dry, last one I got was wet, bought sight unseen, which was a pain when needed in -20 below weather.
Personally, I would not use sand. Whatever doesn't come out of the hose, goes into your engine. Just a thought.
@@ProfessorOzone Yes, beware of Bard's advice, I used to grind aircraft cranks on up to large diesels, I would definitely make sure the process left no sand in it. Just made a trailer drum balancer, boy howdy is it off, ~1.5"X1.5" cube of steel. Now thinking of tapping for two screws and pour lead in a clay dam form, I assumed I would have to machine off material, but that ain't happen, must add. I made an aluminum part that hangs on where the grease cap goes, not fun stetting it on nicely with a mirror solo.