I also bought this board in the same color you did and probably have seen most of RUclips videos about it and I must say yours is the first I've seen explaining the tri-mode connections. Well done and thanks for a very informative and well made video. I subscribed because of that.
Thank you so much for your wonderful feedback. I had actually uploaded a first video on the Neo but didn't include the part about the tri-mode, and decided to go back and re-record it. I'm so glad that it won you over cause of it!!!
my first custom keeb, first time building it - the different direction of some switches are not too bad, especially if you follow the Neo65 build guide. They list every steps in detail there. They did a pretty good job naming/marking different layout on the back of the pcb too. It's pretty intuitive.
My take on mirror weights are this: they cost more and you never see them. They also attract smudge and fingerprints like crazy, so you'll be wiping it often. On the other hand, brass is cheaper, but changes color over time, unless it's well coated, which I'm not sure these are. But you won't have the same smudges and fingerprints like you would on mirror. DON'T GET ME WRONG, MIRROR WEIGHTS LOOK SO NICE! But they do scratch a bit...which is surprising to me since they're supposed to be PVD stainless steel. Maybe I've been too rough on them. But once again, you don't see them... Lastly, I wish this kit came with some damn battery tape!
aww thank you for checking it out again anyways! It did push my next video back a bit, but I'm happy with the results... editing and recording takes so much time!
The nonchalant peeling of the protective film from the mirror weight, like a total baller. Such a wicked review! I tip my hat to all your production efforts; nothing goes unnoticed! Also love "gently push against this thingy here" 😂👌
I finally got my Neo65 today and built it out. Used all the foam for this first build with the FC plate and gaskets. I have the tri-mode with no leds. I used Gateron Oil Kings and PBTfans Subarashi keycaps as I got the purple one, looks and sound fantastic abet somewhat muted. I will probably try other builds later.
Wow awesome! The Subarashi purple is so nice to look at, and I bet the oil kings would sound even better with less foam on. I wish they gave us some battery tape though, I hate how they flop out whenever we have to take the board apart lol
@@keebtunes I agree, I'm liking the sound so far but may remove some of the foam to make it more lively! It's quite thocky but not loud at all. I recently build a GMK67 with Cream Blue Pro and dang it's loud and poppy so I'm starting to want something in between now!
@MarbsMusic 😂😂 definitely need to take some foam out and you might get that sweet spot on between! I'm always back and forth between what I like...sometimes I want loud and sometimes I want muted. So hard to decide!
YESSS yayyy I'm soo happy to hear that!! I literally created this video with the hopes that it'd be helpful for someone out there who'd get this board and didn't know how to start! TYTY! If you'd like, please share a pic of your board with me so that I can share it on my YT post! my discord is keebtunes :)
you should consider a lightweight board...while this one isn't super heavy, these aluminum boards do add a lot of weight that you might not care for once you start loading up your bag.
I'm after a quality, budget, nice sounding keyboard. Is this it? Do we need to assemble the keyboards and buy our own parts? Any pre-built keyboard recommendations?
This kit does require you to assemble, and add switches and keycaps to it. Total cost will be around $150 or so. If you're looking for a prebuilt within the 150 range but with caps and switches and sounds nice, and aluminum, I definitely recommend the Cidoo V65 for $129. You can even pick it up on Amazon amzn.to/3SdxQ6y. If you need F keys, the V75 is $10 dollars more - amzn.to/3Ft7BBd If you are looking for under $100, check out the RK m75 amzn.to/493suke - it's $85 with the $25 dollar off coupon. It's a plastic board though, but it's a really great budget piece.
Hi there! You'll be pleasantly surprised with this kit then because most of the foam are already where they're supposed to be. The case foam is already in the case, and the PCB foam is already on the PCB. The only thing you'll really need to do when you take out the PCB from its bag is to put the plate on top. If you need help with how they should all be put together, let me know. Happy to share some pictures of it with you.
okay I am confused. It comes with PE foam and then it has two additional foam with the cu outs, one is thicker than the other. does it matter which I use with the PE foam? also in regard to the gaskets are we supposed to "clip" them on the PCB and the plate? my Sandwich Is to thick to get it to slide one which is why im thinking I used the wrong foam @@keebtunes
We may need to share pictures on discord for me to know which you're referring to, but simply, each foam piece has its place, so we need to make sure that they go where they're needed. There's one "thick" foam piece that's for the case, and another thicker piece that goes on top of the PE switchpads. The gaskets, once installed, simply slide down into the case. You may have to press it down with a little bit of pressure but they should all slide down in there. If you have discord, add me at keebtunes. Show me which is which and I can help walk you through it.
Forgive me, but, what is the purpose of installing the stand-offs? I haven't seen a keyboard have them yet. I am curious what is the result of not installing them into the Neo65.
what's going on brother, I personally don't recall the standoffs on the Neo65, but it has been close to a year since I've taken it apart, so I may very well have forgotten. Most standoffs are there for stability, or in the case of a "tray mount", you'd need them to secure the screws onto. If you're running a gasket or gummy o-ring mount, you really don't need standoffs.
My friend bought and helped me build this keyboard (tri mode version). We got all three keyboard functions (wired, USB, Bluetooth) to work without any issues and everything types smoothly. However, when using VIA to set up the keybinds, we couldn't work out how to activate the RGB mode. Is there any way to fix this? Thank you!
hi Alex, the wireless version of the Neo65 doesn't come with RGB - I believe that's only available on the wired PCB. It will have a few LEDs for the connection indicators, but not for the whole board.
Alright now how do I make this creamy as hell? Also I’m mad confused cause I heard ppl remove foam for thock, add more foam for clack, do you do like medium foam for creamy? I’m new to the hobby sorry for dumb questions… I was thinking 3x tape mod, FR4 plate cause it’s medium sounding?, and uhh idk about switches too much so maybe the Loobed Pine Switches or like Gateron North Pole V2s would be good?
there are several things that you'll want to do to make it "creamy". You'll typically need to add a tape mod under the PCB and foam in the case to mute any extra noise and clack. Thicker and more non-traditional keycap profiles tend to also skew the sound more creamy as well, opposed to the more standard cherry profiles. Maybe OSA, or ceramic keycaps. Onto the other topic - 3x tape does help, but 2x is typically the sweet spot. FR4 plates generate more clack than PC or POM, but it is more in the middle compared to aluminum or brass. And lastly, the switches....gat north poles are creamy by nature, and more for heavy typists. You can also try gateron pro yellows, or c3equalz banana splits
You'd normally just hold the FN key and the number row, but it's possible that your FN key may not be actuating. Run keyboardtester.com and test the keys to see. Run usevia.app and make sure that the FN key is set to MO(1). MO(1) calls Layer 1, which contains the F1-F12 keys. You can find the json files here: www.qwertykeys.com/pages/fw
I am a bit confused. Can you just order the keybord and use either an ansi or iso layout? Or do you have to order some specific plate when you want to use iso? I have not found anything when trying out the configurator.
It's been awhile since I played with this, but iirc, the tri-mode hotswap comes with the sockets already set up for ISO, you'd just need to install the switches so that they line up to the ISO layout. There shouldn't be any configuring required. The wired hotswap version only supports ANSI. Solder supports any version.
Do you know how to get VIA to work for this keyboard? Every time I boot up VIA, it just seems to stay on the loading screen and doesn't allow me to reprogram my keys.
I try to make it sound as accurate as possible to what you'd hear. I use an XLR mic with a low noise pre amp and don't add any compression to the audio after. I try to distance the microphone at around the same distance from my ears so that there's headroom similar to how you'd hear it... I hope that helps!
I have a slight problem, the q key doesnt work after i finished building. I checked for bent pins and loose sockets and it's none of those. The key still lights up in pairing mode but the key itself doesnt work. anything I can do ?
hi there! with the switch removed and the socket exposed, gently stick your tweezer into the pin sockets and move them around a little to see if there are any registered inputs. It may be that the hot swap socket is loose and may need to be resoldered, or you may have a bad switch. LMK
I'll have to actually pay attention to this and find out! I will let you know when I'm off work today and can stare at the keyboard for a few minutes to find out LOL
Interesting! I really don't recall having to deal with any PCB standoffs, and I'm sure it's not in my vid either. Maybe I'll take it apart tomorrow to double check...thanks for the heads up!
thank you sooo much!! So, when I saw the mat on a different video, I absolutely had to get it. It's my #1 go to because of how clean it looks. It's made by @keebmat and you can find it here (unaffiliated). keebmat.com/products/keebmat-felt-edition - Make sure to find the right size for your keyboard. Btw, these mats are sold by one couple, and they're super sweet!
@@keebtunes oh yes i've heard of them! really nice stuff, thanks for linking them too! actually i was also wondering about the desk mat at the start of the video, the one with the map pattern?
ohhhh!! Yes those are called topographic desk mats - you can find them on Amazon amzn.to/46hmyS6 or on places like Aliexpress and Temu. I think I got mine off of Amazon but I can't seem to find it in my previous orders lol. I'm a instant-gratification kind of millennial so I usually get off of Amazon. I saw ones on Temu but the print looked....off..
@@keebtunes thanks for all the help! i’m getting everything ready for when my neo65 shipment comes in December - your video will be a great help then :) keep doing what you’re doing!
i have a question, before i buy this keyboard, i wanna make sure that it includes the stabilizers when you get the kit, or if you have to buy them seperately. im pretty new to the custom keyboard community, and i just wanna make sure it comes with the stabilizers. thank you and have a blessed day :)
Thank you so much! I hope it was helpful to you! I think I prefer the gasket on this one...it feels better to type on and doesn't sound as dry as the gummy.
@@keebtunes I see. Seems like a lot of people out there prefer the gasket to oring as well. Kinda a bit surprising. Mine hasn't arv yet guess i gotta try both. Can't fit screw stab with oring mount is kinda bummer as well
Honestly, I like both mount style. I still rock the bakeneko65 but I think the bake65 sounds crispier than the neo in gummy. But at the end of the day it's all about preference lol.
Yo, Great video. Just a quick question: Which case color did you pick? Is it navy? Because the navy color on their website doesnt look like color you have.
Hi there! Thanks for watching! Yea, I did get the Navy, and it is indeed a lighter color than what they have on their website. It is NOT that dark LOL.
on 2.4ghz, it should have a run time of around 40-48 hours before it needs a charge - as I rarely use a keyboard with a cable connected (cause I like the looks of the cables), I'm going off of an avg 100 ma against the 4400 mah battey capacity
when you hold Function and tap on "Tab", the light under the "QWER" doesn't move? Can you test to make sure that your function and the tab key work as well...do a keyboard tester or some other setting to make sure that they're actuating.
@@keebtunes The lights move. When I see the "R" rapidly blinking, I plug the dongle in then the LED turns off. When I press the key when the light is off, nothing registers and it blinks normally again.
I do ..I don't think this first iteration of the neo is that good. It's also overly complicated, and disassembly isn't intuitive enough. But if you just like owning cute boards, I think the neo is nice 🙂 just not overly enthused about it
you'll need to load the neo65 json file onto VIA and program it - I'd usually add it to Layer 1 ESC - here's the link to the keyboard software page. Just right click and save link as www.qwertykeys.com/pages/fw
When you installed the ribbon, was did you install it with the white end faced up and away from the PCB? It's possible that this could've caused issues with the connection. Also, make sure the ribbon is properly seated. Or try it with the spare ribbon that it came with. If not, I'll have to do some research and find out why you're having issues.
This wasn’t helpful to me building this from scratch. If you follow the instructions in the sequential order of this video will you have to go back and make changes
I'd like to know which part of the guide made you have to go back and change? I covered two different mounting styles, and the setup itself seemed right to me, but would like to hear your feedback
I was able to assemble the keyboard from your video, but in my case one of the ctrl keys was not working on the pcb. In other assembly videos I’ve followed for other keyboards the step of testing the pcb and switches is covered at some point earlier in the process. Maybe bc I am newer to building keyboards and it wasn’t mentioned bc it’s expected, but having that step would have been helpful to find that before I was already done. I would also suggest the step of removing the weight first before installing the ribbon cable, because I ended up having to take out the pcb again and threading the ribbon cable thru the hole since the weight prevented the cable from going through to the back fully the first time.
Oh my goodness I didn't even think about covering the step of removing the weights! And yeah, I think sometimes I look at the setup from a hobbyist perspective and didn't consider that testing beforehand is just as important for some folks. I normally test the board after I put everything in, and before it alr anything apart, but you technically shouldn't have to take the board out just to fix the layout issue.though?
just built this keyboard and it's probably the worst keyboard i ever built. not good. would recommend to anyone considering this keyboard to get something else.
Some folks like the variety or the novelty of it, I guess? It's not my preference for sure, and I definitely appreciate a more simplistic design and less layout options like this one had. I totally hated the fact that my switches had to go all over the place, and the pcb foam wasn't cut either LOL.
I also bought this board in the same color you did and probably have seen most of RUclips videos about it and I must say yours is the first I've seen explaining the tri-mode connections. Well done and thanks for a very informative and well made video. I subscribed because of that.
Thank you so much for your wonderful feedback. I had actually uploaded a first video on the Neo but didn't include the part about the tri-mode, and decided to go back and re-record it. I'm so glad that it won you over cause of it!!!
tyvm for supporting us; any side up with the ribbon cable is fine - it's designed to go in both sides
I'm glad that you liked the video, and hope that the build guide is helpful to all of your customers 😀 it's a sweet board
That's interesting! I didn't have any issues with the ribbon being inserted with the white side down but it did slide in easier with the white side up
my first custom keeb, first time building it - the different direction of some switches are not too bad, especially if you follow the Neo65 build guide. They list every steps in detail there. They did a pretty good job naming/marking different layout on the back of the pcb too. It's pretty intuitive.
I thought so too, but some people are visual learners and rather watch a vid than read, so wanted to make sure they had options
Hot take: mirror weights are the biggest scam in keebs lol. Love this board, can't wait to build my own.
Did you get a mirror weight too? Truly, I prefer regular weights, but wanted to get something fancier this time 😂😂
And why is that? I'm legit just curious I'm wavering between the options
My take on mirror weights are this: they cost more and you never see them. They also attract smudge and fingerprints like crazy, so you'll be wiping it often. On the other hand, brass is cheaper, but changes color over time, unless it's well coated, which I'm not sure these are. But you won't have the same smudges and fingerprints like you would on mirror.
DON'T GET ME WRONG, MIRROR WEIGHTS LOOK SO NICE! But they do scratch a bit...which is surprising to me since they're supposed to be PVD stainless steel. Maybe I've been too rough on them. But once again, you don't see them...
Lastly, I wish this kit came with some damn battery tape!
@@tokudayoI was going to get brass because it’s the heaviest material, but both brass and copper will oxidize, it’s just a matter of time.
so which one did you end up getting?
I just want to thank you. You explained it way better than in the official builders guide on how to get the 2.4ghz dongle to be paired.
Thank you so much for your support...Im do glad that my vid was beneficial to you 😁
Awesome that you corrected your mistake! I was wondering why this video looked familiar lol
aww thank you for checking it out again anyways! It did push my next video back a bit, but I'm happy with the results... editing and recording takes so much time!
The nonchalant peeling of the protective film from the mirror weight, like a total baller. Such a wicked review! I tip my hat to all your production efforts; nothing goes unnoticed! Also love "gently push against this thingy here" 😂👌
I am such a scholar at the words :D
@@keebtunes lmao 😂
after my last tofu65, I started to want a neo, thanks for the total build video!
yay I'm so glad! I'm working on a neo80 build guide as well (their newer board) - I hope you'll find my vids useful!
The alpha rows sound so even with each other. Minimal tone difference between them, and I like that a lot
I think that's great that you like that - these boards have gotten really good lately
an insanely good quality video, as always!
Thanks so much my friend!
I finally got my Neo65 today and built it out. Used all the foam for this first build with the FC plate and gaskets. I have the tri-mode with no leds. I used Gateron Oil Kings and PBTfans Subarashi keycaps as I got the purple one, looks and sound fantastic abet somewhat muted. I will probably try other builds later.
Wow awesome! The Subarashi purple is so nice to look at, and I bet the oil kings would sound even better with less foam on. I wish they gave us some battery tape though, I hate how they flop out whenever we have to take the board apart lol
@@keebtunes I agree, I'm liking the sound so far but may remove some of the foam to make it more lively! It's quite thocky but not loud at all. I recently build a GMK67 with Cream Blue Pro and dang it's loud and poppy so I'm starting to want something in between now!
@MarbsMusic 😂😂 definitely need to take some foam out and you might get that sweet spot on between! I'm always back and forth between what I like...sometimes I want loud and sometimes I want muted. So hard to decide!
@@keebtunesI damaged a socket so got a new PCB and just rebuilt using Badseed V2s and Osume Dusks, definitely loud with the foam now :)
@MarbsMusic oo was the socket beyond solder? Or did the hub get impacted too? Either way, is it loud and clacky? That's my fav lol
My first build, your video literally saved me 🙌🏾🙏🏾😅
YESSS yayyy I'm soo happy to hear that!! I literally created this video with the hopes that it'd be helpful for someone out there who'd get this board and didn't know how to start! TYTY! If you'd like, please share a pic of your board with me so that I can share it on my YT post! my discord is keebtunes :)
❤ your videos! Thanks for the hard work!
Thanks for watching!
Thx. It was very helpful for my first build.
I'm so happy to hear that!!!
I'm looking into getting this keyboard for a sturdy traveling keyboard.
you should consider a lightweight board...while this one isn't super heavy, these aluminum boards do add a lot of weight that you might not care for once you start loading up your bag.
I'm after a quality, budget, nice sounding keyboard. Is this it? Do we need to assemble the keyboards and buy our own parts? Any pre-built keyboard recommendations?
This kit does require you to assemble, and add switches and keycaps to it. Total cost will be around $150 or so. If you're looking for a prebuilt within the 150 range but with caps and switches and sounds nice, and aluminum, I definitely recommend the Cidoo V65 for $129. You can even pick it up on Amazon amzn.to/3SdxQ6y.
If you need F keys, the V75 is $10 dollars more - amzn.to/3Ft7BBd
If you are looking for under $100, check out the RK m75 amzn.to/493suke - it's $85 with the $25 dollar off coupon. It's a plastic board though, but it's a really great budget piece.
@@keebtunes Thanks so much! will definitely look into that
you're welcome, and thanks for checking out my video!
im super new. I wish you would've shown putting the foams on the plate
Hi there! You'll be pleasantly surprised with this kit then because most of the foam are already where they're supposed to be. The case foam is already in the case, and the PCB foam is already on the PCB. The only thing you'll really need to do when you take out the PCB from its bag is to put the plate on top. If you need help with how they should all be put together, let me know. Happy to share some pictures of it with you.
okay I am confused. It comes with PE foam and then it has two additional foam with the cu outs, one is thicker than the other. does it matter which I use with the PE foam? also in regard to the gaskets are we supposed to "clip" them on the PCB and the plate? my Sandwich Is to thick to get it to slide one which is why im thinking I used the wrong foam
@@keebtunes
We may need to share pictures on discord for me to know which you're referring to, but simply, each foam piece has its place, so we need to make sure that they go where they're needed. There's one "thick" foam piece that's for the case, and another thicker piece that goes on top of the PE switchpads. The gaskets, once installed, simply slide down into the case. You may have to press it down with a little bit of pressure but they should all slide down in there. If you have discord, add me at keebtunes. Show me which is which and I can help walk you through it.
I sent a friend request if that's what you meant. I am also new to actually using discord aswell
@@keebtunes
Forgive me, but, what is the purpose of installing the stand-offs? I haven't seen a keyboard have them yet. I am curious what is the result of not installing them into the Neo65.
what's going on brother, I personally don't recall the standoffs on the Neo65, but it has been close to a year since I've taken it apart, so I may very well have forgotten. Most standoffs are there for stability, or in the case of a "tray mount", you'd need them to secure the screws onto. If you're running a gasket or gummy o-ring mount, you really don't need standoffs.
Love your video. Always hard work❤
Thank you so much...
Amazing work
Thank you so much for your support!
My friend bought and helped me build this keyboard (tri mode version). We got all three keyboard functions (wired, USB, Bluetooth) to work without any issues and everything types smoothly. However, when using VIA to set up the keybinds, we couldn't work out how to activate the RGB mode. Is there any way to fix this? Thank you!
hi Alex, the wireless version of the Neo65 doesn't come with RGB - I believe that's only available on the wired PCB. It will have a few LEDs for the connection indicators, but not for the whole board.
Alright now how do I make this creamy as hell? Also I’m mad confused cause I heard ppl remove foam for thock, add more foam for clack, do you do like medium foam for creamy? I’m new to the hobby sorry for dumb questions… I was thinking 3x tape mod, FR4 plate cause it’s medium sounding?, and uhh idk about switches too much so maybe the Loobed Pine Switches or like Gateron North Pole V2s would be good?
there are several things that you'll want to do to make it "creamy". You'll typically need to add a tape mod under the PCB and foam in the case to mute any extra noise and clack. Thicker and more non-traditional keycap profiles tend to also skew the sound more creamy as well, opposed to the more standard cherry profiles. Maybe OSA, or ceramic keycaps.
Onto the other topic - 3x tape does help, but 2x is typically the sweet spot. FR4 plates generate more clack than PC or POM, but it is more in the middle compared to aluminum or brass. And lastly, the switches....gat north poles are creamy by nature, and more for heavy typists. You can also try gateron pro yellows, or c3equalz banana splits
@@keebtunes What do you think about MDA or MT3 profile keycaps for a creamy sound?
Mt3 are thick bois and will add some thick to the sound for sure.
I had used MDAs but unfortunately i don't remember much about them
@@keebtunes guessing you didn’t like them that much then haha rip MDAs
Great. Thank you for sharing ….❤️❤️
DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO USE THE f ROW ON THE NEO 65 PLS I NEED TO KNOW HOLDING FN DOESNT WORK
You'd normally just hold the FN key and the number row, but it's possible that your FN key may not be actuating. Run keyboardtester.com and test the keys to see. Run usevia.app and make sure that the FN key is set to MO(1). MO(1) calls Layer 1, which contains the F1-F12 keys. You can find the json files here: www.qwertykeys.com/pages/fw
Do you think this board is worth getting for the price? Is there anything else you'd recommend around that 150 price range?
yea around that price range, you could also consider the zoom65, a very popular board with some extra customization.
The fact that it’s in stock on drop makes it worth it to me
did you managed to pick one up?
could i know the name of your deskmat/the thing under the neo65? Greatly appreciated :)
Hi hi! It's a felt keyboard mat that i got from www.keebmat.com - their stuff is legit! And this mat is really cleanq
@@keebtunes Thank you for responnding! May i ask which colour you chose?
No problem!! I got the navy one
I am a bit confused. Can you just order the keybord and use either an ansi or iso layout? Or do you have to order some specific plate when you want to use iso? I have not found anything when trying out the configurator.
It's been awhile since I played with this, but iirc, the tri-mode hotswap comes with the sockets already set up for ISO, you'd just need to install the switches so that they line up to the ISO layout. There shouldn't be any configuring required. The wired hotswap version only supports ANSI. Solder supports any version.
Nice.
Thank you for the fast reply on an old video.
@kondor4920 I hope that's what it is! Let me know, and I can bring it out and check.
Hey great video! Just to check, are the stabilisers included in the packaging?
Thank you so much! Yes, the stabilizers are included :)
hi, I just built this keyboard, but when I use the wire mode, it can't automatically connect to my laptop, any idea how to fix it?
hi! What does it do exactly when you plug it in? And this is after you've set it to wired mode right?
Do you know how to get VIA to work for this keyboard? Every time I boot up VIA, it just seems to stay on the loading screen and doesn't allow me to reprogram my keys.
are you using via on desktop or via on website? And have you loaded the json file to it?
@@keebtunes I realized earlier that I forgot to install the json file, so I got it working eventually. Honestly, the board sounds great!
@ahjl9233 that's awesome!!! I'm so glad it worked out
@@keebtunes Thanks!
Does it sound same in real life?
I try to make it sound as accurate as possible to what you'd hear. I use an XLR mic with a low noise pre amp and don't add any compression to the audio after. I try to distance the microphone at around the same distance from my ears so that there's headroom similar to how you'd hear it... I hope that helps!
@@keebtunesty bro
My pleasure bro
I have a slight problem, the q key doesnt work after i finished building. I checked for bent pins and loose sockets and it's none of those. The key still lights up in pairing mode but the key itself doesnt work. anything I can do ?
hi there! with the switch removed and the socket exposed, gently stick your tweezer into the pin sockets and move them around a little to see if there are any registered inputs. It may be that the hot swap socket is loose and may need to be resoldered, or you may have a bad switch. LMK
Will the LED underneath the R key blink constantly in the 2.4 ghz mode? That would be really annoying
I'll have to actually pay attention to this and find out! I will let you know when I'm off work today and can stare at the keyboard for a few minutes to find out LOL
Is there a mention of the standoffs?
Aee you asking whether there is a PCB standoff or weather it's solely held together via the switches?
@@keebtunes nah I meant, did you demonstrate putting the standoffs in
Gotcha, there are no standoffs in this kit. The PCB is held by the switches, and the mounting is either gasket or o ring
Oh really? My tri-mode PCB with POM plate came with standoffs
Interesting! I really don't recall having to deal with any PCB standoffs, and I'm sure it's not in my vid either. Maybe I'll take it apart tomorrow to double check...thanks for the heads up!
Nice video! What desk mat are you using?
thank you sooo much!! So, when I saw the mat on a different video, I absolutely had to get it. It's my #1 go to because of how clean it looks. It's made by @keebmat and you can find it here (unaffiliated). keebmat.com/products/keebmat-felt-edition - Make sure to find the right size for your keyboard. Btw, these mats are sold by one couple, and they're super sweet!
@@keebtunes oh yes i've heard of them! really nice stuff, thanks for linking them too! actually i was also wondering about the desk mat at the start of the video, the one with the map pattern?
ohhhh!! Yes those are called topographic desk mats - you can find them on Amazon amzn.to/46hmyS6 or on places like Aliexpress and Temu. I think I got mine off of Amazon but I can't seem to find it in my previous orders lol. I'm a instant-gratification kind of millennial so I usually get off of Amazon. I saw ones on Temu but the print looked....off..
@@keebtunes thanks for all the help! i’m getting everything ready for when my neo65 shipment comes in December - your video will be a great help then :) keep doing what you’re doing!
Thanks so much Daniel! I really appreciate all of your support and for sticking around for the content. I hope your build blows your ears away 😶🌫️
i have a question, before i buy this keyboard, i wanna make sure that it includes the stabilizers when you get the kit, or if you have to buy them seperately. im pretty new to the custom keyboard community, and i just wanna make sure it comes with the stabilizers. thank you and have a blessed day :)
Hi there! Yes it does. You should have everything that you need in the kit with the exception of the switches and the keycaps
thank you so much! i really appreciate it. have a great rest of your day!
You have a great day too!
@@keebtunes I have trouble learning how to install the clip in stablizers. Can you make another video just for that please?
Specifically for this keyboard?
Thank you for great guide!
In the end which one do you like more? Gummy oring or gasket?
(I'm trying to build mine clacky but not too dry.)
Thank you so much! I hope it was helpful to you! I think I prefer the gasket on this one...it feels better to type on and doesn't sound as dry as the gummy.
@@keebtunes
I see. Seems like a lot of people out there prefer the gasket to oring as well. Kinda a bit surprising.
Mine hasn't arv yet guess i gotta try both. Can't fit screw stab with oring mount is kinda bummer as well
Honestly, I like both mount style. I still rock the bakeneko65 but I think the bake65 sounds crispier than the neo in gummy. But at the end of the day it's all about preference lol.
@@keebtunes
You mean "It's all about the next board" ? 😂
I mean....you're not wrong lol
Yo, Great video. Just a quick question: Which case color did you pick? Is it navy? Because the navy color on their website doesnt look like color you have.
Hi there! Thanks for watching! Yea, I did get the Navy, and it is indeed a lighter color than what they have on their website. It is NOT that dark LOL.
Tysm for the reply. I'll definitely pick the navy color now
You're so welcome!!! Good luck and have fun 😊
How long is battery life when using in 2.4hz wireless mode?
on 2.4ghz, it should have a run time of around 40-48 hours before it needs a charge - as I rarely use a keyboard with a cable connected (cause I like the looks of the cables), I'm going off of an avg 100 ma against the 4400 mah battey capacity
My first build why is my plate bent and makes it hard to put gaskets on?
Your plate shouldn't be bent...how badly bent is it?
Does the tri-mode hotswap have RGB, or is it only the wired hotswap which has it?
Yea it's only the wired...
slightly thocky with a pom plate
I cant seem to connect to 2.4ghz regardless of following the instructions. Help please.
when you hold Function and tap on "Tab", the light under the "QWER" doesn't move? Can you test to make sure that your function and the tab key work as well...do a keyboard tester or some other setting to make sure that they're actuating.
@@keebtunes The lights move. When I see the "R" rapidly blinking, I plug the dongle in then the LED turns off. When I press the key when the light is off, nothing registers and it blinks normally again.
Plug it in first and then try it. I had the dongle visible to show in the clip, but usually it works better when the dongle is already plugged in
@@keebtunes Tried that right now and it still doesnt work. I just got these keeb 2 weeks ago. ):
Does your bluetooth and wired option work? If so, you might have a bad dongle, or a bad transmitter..
what is the pulling rate of bluetooth and 2.4G mode ?
Bluetooth and 2.4g will most likely be the standard 125ghz, but I'll run some test later today and find out if that's great.
if i got a rainy75 and a qk65 is it worth to get this too?
I don't think so..I think the rainy75 and the qk65 are both great boards! I don't think this is on the same level tbh
@@keebtunes you mean this 2 boards are better than the neo?
I do ..I don't think this first iteration of the neo is that good. It's also overly complicated, and disassembly isn't intuitive enough. But if you just like owning cute boards, I think the neo is nice 🙂 just not overly enthused about it
@@keebtunes my qk65 is r2. Furthermore the current batch of Neo65 you wont recommend too am I right because of that issues you mention?
I don't think the neo65 is a good kit, but I think the neo70 looks better and more improved
how do I type backtick in this keyboard
you'll need to load the neo65 json file onto VIA and program it - I'd usually add it to Layer 1 ESC - here's the link to the keyboard software page. Just right click and save link as
www.qwertykeys.com/pages/fw
How did you get your 2.4ghz dongle to work? I plugged mine in and made sure the r was lit up but it still wont recognize the inputs.
Does your wired and Bluetooth work?
Did you also turn on your batteries? Silly question but I had to ask
@@keebtunes wired works, I got Bluetooth to work once but never again
@@keebtunes yes
When you installed the ribbon, was did you install it with the white end faced up and away from the PCB? It's possible that this could've caused issues with the connection. Also, make sure the ribbon is properly seated. Or try it with the spare ribbon that it came with. If not, I'll have to do some research and find out why you're having issues.
is that pcb foam are poron?
I believe so
@@keebtunes tks mate
where is the Home key?
You can program it with via
@@keebtunes I got it! thanks
How long does it take to ship?
I think maybe 2 weeks
This wasn’t helpful to me building this from scratch. If you follow the instructions in the sequential order of this video will you have to go back and make changes
I'd like to know which part of the guide made you have to go back and change? I covered two different mounting styles, and the setup itself seemed right to me, but would like to hear your feedback
I was able to assemble the keyboard from your video, but in my case one of the ctrl keys was not working on the pcb. In other assembly videos I’ve followed for other keyboards the step of testing the pcb and switches is covered at some point earlier in the process. Maybe bc I am newer to building keyboards and it wasn’t mentioned bc it’s expected, but having that step would have been helpful to find that before I was already done.
I would also suggest the step of removing the weight first before installing the ribbon cable, because I ended up having to take out the pcb again and threading the ribbon cable thru the hole since the weight prevented the cable from going through to the back fully the first time.
Oh my goodness I didn't even think about covering the step of removing the weights! And yeah, I think sometimes I look at the setup from a hobbyist perspective and didn't consider that testing beforehand is just as important for some folks. I normally test the board after I put everything in, and before it alr anything apart, but you technically shouldn't have to take the board out just to fix the layout issue.though?
Isit possible to tape mod this keyboard?
Of course! You'd have to make cute around the connections and any gasket openings
just built this keyboard and it's probably the worst keyboard i ever built. not good. would recommend to anyone considering this keyboard to get something else.
Some folks like the variety or the novelty of it, I guess? It's not my preference for sure, and I definitely appreciate a more simplistic design and less layout options like this one had. I totally hated the fact that my switches had to go all over the place, and the pcb foam wasn't cut either LOL.