Terrific video. Gave me the courage to have a go at the struts on my 2013 Skoda Superb. I used DIY clamps to close up the spring. I couldn't get jubilee clips to go under the springs it was too tight, I therefore used stong wire and used a jubilee clip at the other end with wire twisted onto it. The springs on the carbon brushes were absolutely rotten I made some, as advised, from old guitar wire. I found winding around a 3.5mm drill gave me a spring that was too large in diameter. I then tried winding, by hand, around a 2.5mm drill which was much better. I didn't really think that the springs would work, however, they do! I glued everything back to gether using bathroon clear silicone. All back together now and fully working again!
Fantastic buddy, thanks for making the time to make the video! Now I see why these struts cost hundreds of bucks to buy, and also why garages just swap them out. But as you have so ably shown, with a little time and ingenuity, it's possible to save them from the scrap pile and get a few more years out of them 🙂
Hello, neat work! I would implement this less difficult. The aim is to have a drive that continues to function. The ingress of moisture can probably only be poorly prevented. It may help to drill holes to improve the ventilation a little. However, I can only judge this poorly without being on site. On the motor, I would only remove the rear bearing shield so that I can get to the carbon brushes. I wouldn't push out the front bearing under any circumstances, because you can't press it back in. Normally, the front bearing goes into the stator first and then the gearwheel onto the shaft - we can't do that. If you run some adhesive oil or penetrating oil through the inside of the motor, it will not become new. But it won't rust any further either. Same for the outside of the motor. That must be enough 😉
how long do I have to heat the engine? did it for a few minutes on a 2016 engine and the protective tube won't come off. It's more likely that the protective tube will melt.
wow what a great detailed video. i know that those are sealed bearing,but i think i would have open them and greased them and the shaft, thanks very much.
On the octavia 3 its a newer model and the motor is not glued on all the way like this. Just need to remove it from the top part and better to cut with a dremel tool
Excellent video. Thanks for this! It was clear that water intrusion caused the issues with THIS strut. Makes me wonder if that is the only failure mode they have. I'm saying, do they fail (have a shorter life) for other reasons (causes)? And no, I'm not expecting you to know, or answer that. Just curious, since these have not be around long enough for the answer to be common knowledge. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video.....
Thank you! In my knowledge water intrusion is the most common failure. Also during the winter time, when rear lid is hardly frozen and attached to the car body, then operating electric struts may damage the gear or burn the electronics. Therefore it´s mandatory in wintertime, when pushing the rear lid latch, then you need also pull slighlty up the rear lid in order to help struts and prevent it to be attached frozen to the body. Similar logic also applies with VAG panoramic sunfoor, meaning to avoid any problems in wintertime, it´s crutial to remove sunroof fuse to fully disconnect sunroof operation.
@@lutz6441 And thank you for that info! So if my car is garage kept, and I don't drive much in the first place, my struts should last forever then! Just kidding, but seriously....if it is a water thing, you would think the maker of the struts would create a better (water tight) seal - in the first place. Mazda wants $724 each for those things. That is enough to inspire me to follow what you did in this video. That is, if the insides of the different brand struts are similar. I would think they would have to be. Anyway, thank you for the great video, and info!
awesome job and thank you for sharing! does the motor in the strut have a part number or something like that so I can order and replace only that? I get "0018 - Motor 1 for rear lid B11D9 13 [009] - Open Circuit" although the struts look pretty much new (bought them second hand). It's about a vw passat b8
Thank you, most likely it´s imposible to find replacement motor from the market (maybe only used one). I strongly recommend to open them and carry out prevetative maintanance as I did with mines.
Hi! I have the mk3 octavia rs,the almost same struts.On the right side its not working properly..I check in the shop the new parts price are 350€/piece. What i supposed to pay for the repair?+/-
Hello, any ideas why strut might rattle? It works perfectly but rattles on every little bump, and is very annoying. Octavia mk3, but I think they should be nearly identical
Hard to say, maybe greasing it with some spray may solve this issue?! Or to prevent any failure in future, open the strut and do as seen in my video. Maybe then you can short it out, why it’s rattles.
@@lutz6441 Quick ”fix” to that was to add little piece of STP 20mm sound deadening foam to the body, where rain water goes down, just in the middle, like 2x2cm piece Applied also clear ppf in the case it starts to rust, as foam is great in sucking water into itself, that was quick fix for me, as I didnt want to mess with 500€ shock lol 😂 as it was working perfectly fine, only was rattling.
May I ask a question? There are at least 6 wires that are fed to these struts. Two of them are usually heavier gauge wires, and go directly to the motor (brushes, I believe). They are the motor + and - leads (power to the motor). But wires labeled "B+", "A signal", "B signal", and "Ground" all also feed in there. I looked watching the video, and I could not see where they attach, or what they connect to. So if you have any of these struts apart, can you tell me - just WHAT do they connect to? I'm asking this because I am hoping to be able to make a determination, if different model year struts could either work for other model years [I'm trying to learn the differences between them - as my background is an Electrical Engineer - I might be able to make these determinations]. Thank you in advance for this!
Hi, It is most probably the 2 hall sensors - a feedback to the MCU. They go nowhere, just sensing the position or rotation of the motor via the magnetic ring or whatever the round element under the PCBA is. If there is an error reported by diag with feedback, it can be wires or motor does not work = no feedback for MCU.
Hello I am trying to install electric tail lift in my bmw x3. I tested the strut with 12v. Initially they worked but now the motor works but not going up or down. Is there a way to reposition or reset them?
Hello! Could you possibly tell me what size the carbon brushes are? I want to replace it, but I can't find any information about it. The video is very good! thank you very much!
Hi. Great video. Can you tell me how I can test struts? If its possible to know which one is broken, the diagnostics showed nothing. thank you very much.
You can power the wires and see, whether struts are working or not. Still I suggest to open both of them and do the preventative repairs even if they seem ok. Most likely one day you´ll face the problem, that struts are not working and then you´ll need to repair them anyways. This water intrusion is common failure and eventually they will fail some day.
@@lutz6441 Mine dont react (not same model as yours), csn they be manually (or by force) reset to see if they work? I need to be sure they are the issue and notnother components. Tnx
Szia Barátom! Mi lehet a baj, ha rendesen működik, de képtelen megtartani az ajtót? Csomagtartó pakolásnál rámcsukódik, mintha gyenge lenne a rugója és nem tudja megtartani az ajtót
@@lutz6441 Unfortunately my Skoda Superb struts appear later models. (Manuf. 2014)In the end I `dremel` cut off the outer tube. It would not slide over the base fitting either.There is no inner plastic cartridge covering the motor drive instead the outer sheath is glued to the top and bottom mechanism mouldings only with what appears to be plastic pipe weld glue which will not melt before the plastic melts also. The inside looks like new. Maybe I should have found out how to test the electrics off the vehicle first first!! I can replace the outer sleeve with 32mm waste water pipe.
@@andyhopkins4693 Thank you for your feedback. This is very interesting to hear, as I thought they all are the same. Still if its possible to add new self made sleeve, then this seems to very good deal. Are electric motor and gear drive same as older versions or completely different? Did you sorted out, what was wrong with your struts?
@@lutz6441 does not have an exposed ball bearing . If it is there it is within a moulding plastic welded to the sheath. I only cut away 1/2 of the cover lengthways and i believe you would have to take pressure off the spring (Which instead of being greased is covered in a thin felt layer.)before safely going any furthur. I think it is called `built in redundancy` !! A dealer just told me to buy new ones as mine are 6yrs old and when they stop they are faulty. So of course he did not have a clue or know how to check which one as unlikely both would fail. I have just put manual struts on instead. Fraction of the replacement cost. You have to get out to load the boot space anyway !! I don`t know how to upload you a picture.
how long do I have to heat the engine? did it for a few minutes on a 2016 engine and the protective tube won't come off. It's more likely that the protective tube will melt.
Terrific video. Gave me the courage to have a go at the struts on my 2013 Skoda Superb. I used DIY clamps to close up the spring. I couldn't get jubilee clips to go under the springs it was too tight, I therefore used stong wire and used a jubilee clip at the other end with wire twisted onto it. The springs on the carbon brushes were absolutely rotten I made some, as advised, from old guitar wire. I found winding around a 3.5mm drill gave me a spring that was too large in diameter. I then tried winding, by hand, around a 2.5mm drill which was much better. I didn't really think that the springs would work, however, they do!
I glued everything back to gether using bathroon clear silicone. All back together now and fully working again!
Great to hear! Mine are still working well, no problems so far! Thank you for your support and good advises!
Fantastic buddy, thanks for making the time to make the video!
Now I see why these struts cost hundreds of bucks to buy, and also why garages just swap them out. But as you have so ably shown, with a little time and ingenuity, it's possible to save them from the scrap pile and get a few more years out of them 🙂
Hello,
neat work!
I would implement this less difficult. The aim is to have a drive that continues to function. The ingress of moisture can probably only be poorly prevented. It may help to drill holes to improve the ventilation a little. However, I can only judge this poorly without being on site.
On the motor, I would only remove the rear bearing shield so that I can get to the carbon brushes.
I wouldn't push out the front bearing under any circumstances, because you can't press it back in. Normally, the front bearing goes into the stator first and then the gearwheel onto the shaft - we can't do that.
If you run some adhesive oil or penetrating oil through the inside of the motor, it will not become new. But it won't rust any further either.
Same for the outside of the motor.
That must be enough 😉
how long do I have to heat the engine? did it for a few minutes on a 2016 engine and the protective tube won't come off. It's more likely that the protective tube will melt.
thank to you i know how these struts work , thank you very much for this video!!!!
tnx, awesome task... job
wow what a great detailed video. i know that those are sealed bearing,but i think i would have open them and greased them and the shaft, thanks very much.
On the octavia 3 its a newer model and the motor is not glued on all the way like this. Just need to remove it from the top part and better to cut with a dremel tool
Where are you based Lutz? The video and this job is extraordinary! Well done!
I´m from Estonia and good to hear, that videos are helpful!
Very useful video, thank you very much.
Good to hear, it seems that this issue is making problems for many people.
Ju aree the best🏆👌
Excellent video. Thanks for this! It was clear that water intrusion caused the issues with THIS strut. Makes me wonder if that is the only failure mode they have. I'm saying, do they fail (have a shorter life) for other reasons (causes)? And no, I'm not expecting you to know, or answer that. Just curious, since these have not be around long enough for the answer to be common knowledge.
Thanks again for taking the time to make this video.....
Thank you! In my knowledge water intrusion is the most common failure. Also during the winter time, when rear lid is hardly frozen and attached to the car body, then operating electric struts may damage the gear or burn the electronics. Therefore it´s mandatory in wintertime, when pushing the rear lid latch, then you need also pull slighlty up the rear lid in order to help struts and prevent it to be attached frozen to the body. Similar logic also applies with VAG panoramic sunfoor, meaning to avoid any problems in wintertime, it´s crutial to remove sunroof fuse to fully disconnect sunroof operation.
@@lutz6441 And thank you for that info! So if my car is garage kept, and I don't drive much in the first place, my struts should last forever then! Just kidding, but seriously....if it is a water thing, you would think the maker of the struts would create a better (water tight) seal - in the first place. Mazda wants $724 each for those things. That is enough to inspire me to follow what you did in this video. That is, if the insides of the different brand struts are similar. I would think they would have to be. Anyway, thank you for the great video, and info!
wow exelent video thumbs up 👍💪👏
What could be the issue when the electric boot does open but then does not hold in the position? I.e. it opens and then immediately closes.
+1 clicks open, and falls back, sometimes beeping.. if pulled up 5-10cm and then pushing button on boot, it opens all the way.. still motors?
You are imazing, my hat down.
awesome job and thank you for sharing! does the motor in the strut have a part number or something like that so I can order and replace only that? I get "0018 - Motor 1 for rear lid
B11D9 13 [009] - Open Circuit" although the struts look pretty much new (bought them second hand). It's about a vw passat b8
Thank you, most likely it´s imposible to find replacement motor from the market (maybe only used one). I strongly recommend to open them and carry out prevetative maintanance as I did with mines.
Hi!
I have the mk3 octavia rs,the almost same struts.On the right side its not working properly..I check in the shop the new parts price are 350€/piece.
What i supposed to pay for the repair?+/-
Very hard work
Great video 👏👏👏, Does it work for octavia scout -17, think its octavia III.
Hello, any ideas why strut might rattle?
It works perfectly but rattles on every little bump, and is very annoying.
Octavia mk3, but I think they should be nearly identical
Hard to say, maybe greasing it with some spray may solve this issue?! Or to prevent any failure in future, open the strut and do as seen in my video. Maybe then you can short it out, why it’s rattles.
@@lutz6441 Quick ”fix” to that was to add little piece of STP 20mm sound deadening foam to the body, where rain water goes down, just in the middle, like 2x2cm piece
Applied also clear ppf in the case it starts to rust, as foam is great in sucking water into itself, that was quick fix for me, as I didnt want to mess with 500€ shock lol 😂 as it was working perfectly fine, only was rattling.
May I ask a question? There are at least 6 wires that are fed to these struts. Two of them are usually heavier gauge wires, and go directly to the motor (brushes, I believe). They are the motor + and - leads (power to the motor). But wires labeled "B+", "A signal", "B signal", and "Ground" all also feed in there. I looked watching the video, and I could not see where they attach, or what they connect to. So if you have any of these struts apart, can you tell me - just WHAT do they connect to?
I'm asking this because I am hoping to be able to make a determination, if different model year struts could either work for other model years [I'm trying to learn the differences between them - as my background is an Electrical Engineer - I might be able to make these determinations].
Thank you in advance for this!
Hi, It is most probably the 2 hall sensors - a feedback to the MCU. They go nowhere, just sensing the position or rotation of the motor via the magnetic ring or whatever the round element under the PCBA is. If there is an error reported by diag with feedback, it can be wires or motor does not work = no feedback for MCU.
Dobrý den jak je prosím vyzkouším mimo auto ,stačí napojit na napájení a musí točit?Díky za radu Rosťa.
Hi, are those motors working with 12 volts or do they go under 5 logic?
Hard to say exactly, but I think they work with 12V
if stock up can still be fixed?
Hello
I am trying to install electric tail lift in my bmw x3. I tested the strut with 12v. Initially they worked but now the motor works but not going up or down. Is there a way to reposition or reset them?
Thank you very much for this video. Could you please specify the exact type of glue you are using to seal the motor?
I have used Kiilto Masa fix and sealant glue, but you can use other glues as well. Just be sure, that you can make it waterproof.
Hello! Could you possibly tell me what size the carbon brushes are? I want to replace it, but I can't find any information about it. The video is very good! thank you very much!
Sadly I don´t have the measurements of the brushes, but you can use generic cordless drill brushes and reshape them in to exact measurement.
@@lutz6441 ok! thank you very much for your answer! all the best!
Hello, have you video about skoda octavia mk 3 electric tailgate repair?
Most likely Octavia and Superb struts are pretty similar, so you should follow the same logic shown in my video
Hi. Great video. Can you tell me how I can test struts? If its possible to know which one is broken, the diagnostics showed nothing. thank you very much.
You can power the wires and see, whether struts are working or not. Still I suggest to open both of them and do the preventative repairs even if they seem ok. Most likely one day you´ll face the problem, that struts are not working and then you´ll need to repair them anyways. This water intrusion is common failure and eventually they will fail some day.
@@lutz6441 Mine dont react (not same model as yours), csn they be manually (or by force) reset to see if they work? I need to be sure they are the issue and notnother components. Tnx
for how long should the plastic protection be heated, approximately?
Around one minute.
Thanks
Can someone give me ping wiring diagram, I have to test replacement strut
Is it possible to check whether these are the same struts in the Octavia III? they look very similar
Hard to say, most likely part number is different. But still the logic inside the strut is the same. So go for it and start heating it up :)
Does anyobody know what is the type of the rubber seal? I have lost mine 😕
Pro work..kia sorento 2016 electric strut stops working and works again..any quick fix you can suggest ?
Sadly can´t help you, as I have no glue about Kia struts.
@@lutz6441 sad thing is my local official kia service did not even bother fixing this issue..
Szia Barátom! Mi lehet a baj, ha rendesen működik, de képtelen megtartani az ajtót? Csomagtartó pakolásnál rámcsukódik, mintha gyenge lenne a rugója és nem tudja megtartani az ajtót
Nehéz most megmondani, de bölcs dolog kinyitni ezeket a rudakat, és megnézni, mi a probléma. Nem tartom valószínűnek, hogy ez a rugó eltört.
No way the strut plastic cover is coming off
hello what is this special glue ??
I used Kiilto Masa glue, but any other water ressistant sealant works perfectly.
what were the symptoms of damaged cylinders?
Failure in strut operation. Lid was opened to half way or not opened at all.
@@lutz6441 ok. Thanks
Osaatko kertoa kun oon polttanut jo karrelle ton suojan että onko vaan vanhat liimat niin jämähtänyt vai onkohan toi kertaalleen jo avattu?
Although I´m from Estonia, I don´t speak Finnish langugae and it' s very hard to me to understand your question. Please phrase it in english.
How much temp you did heat it?
Quite high temperature, but be careful with plastic, don’t let it melt.
Cannot get my 2014 strut to unglue. even tried more heat till plastic was very hot
You have to heat it up quite a long time, until plastic is very hot and before melting process, but still should remain it shape.
@@lutz6441 Unfortunately my Skoda Superb struts appear later models. (Manuf. 2014)In the end I `dremel` cut off the outer tube. It would not slide over the base fitting either.There is no inner plastic cartridge covering the motor drive instead the outer sheath is glued to the top and bottom mechanism mouldings only with what appears to be plastic pipe weld glue which will not melt before the plastic melts also. The inside looks like new. Maybe I should have found out how to test the electrics off the vehicle first first!! I can replace the outer sleeve with 32mm waste water pipe.
@@andyhopkins4693 Thank you for your feedback. This is very interesting to hear, as I thought they all are the same. Still if its possible to add new self made sleeve, then this seems to very good deal. Are electric motor and gear drive same as older versions or completely different? Did you sorted out, what was wrong with your struts?
@@lutz6441
does not have an exposed ball bearing . If it is there it is within a moulding plastic welded to the sheath. I only cut away 1/2 of the cover lengthways and i believe you would have to take pressure off the spring (Which instead of being greased is covered in a thin felt layer.)before safely going any furthur. I think it is called `built in redundancy` !! A dealer just told me to buy new ones as mine are 6yrs old and when they stop they are faulty. So of course he did not have a clue or know how to check which one as unlikely both would fail. I have just put manual struts on instead. Fraction of the replacement cost. You have to get out to load the boot space anyway !! I don`t know how to upload you a picture.
In my skoda there was on broken cable in cylinder motor
Very good to know, but as you have already open the strut, it is wise to make it watertight and check electric motor brush springs conditions.
And is there a video for opel insignia 2014? :)
Sadly no, I’m focused more VAG cars and I dont have experience with Opel.
Thx
diferent model rogue 😢
2008 Lincoln Navigator
How to get a new one
I'm waiting
It seems dangerous to use the knife.
Slt
how long do I have to heat the engine? did it for a few minutes on a 2016 engine and the protective tube won't come off. It's more likely that the protective tube will melt.
It should come off, as it is clued to the plastic cover. Then adjust your heat gun to lower temp, but heat it a bit longer.
I've got the same problem. Cannot came off after heating. My Skoda is from 2015. How did you do?
Anyone did handle with it ? I am stuck with trying to re-glue the cover ..