I had a really bad financial time in my life and I had to sell all my good Sony gear, cameras and G Master lenses. All I was left with was my little sony a6400 and I needed a wider lens to shoot some real estate. I think I’ll go with the new lens as I don’t do video. Good review. This helped me make a choice.
I have Sony a7iv. The 10-18 has a secret mode where zooming at 12 you remove the vignette being still in full frame mode (not apsc crop). What about the new 10-20? If you crop in can you remove the vignetting without apsc mode?
Thanks for this review. Despite missing that the a6600 DOES have image stabilization, I really appreciate the attention to this whole line up of Sony cameras.
Great review! I'm a Real Estate Photographer and the new 10-20G is MUCH better than my older 10-18 in handling window bloom. I use the new lens with the Sony Circular Polarizer (with the Zeiss coating) and it has virtually eliminated my need for flash for windows pulls.
@@akirahojo2 I'm probably the wrong person to ask for 2 reasons - 1) I do use a tripod for my interior photos because I shoot 3-5 brackets at different exposures that allow me to create a HDR or composite photograph. 2) I have a back injury that causes me to shake pretty badly when holding a camera up to my eyes so I tend to use a tripod or monopod in situations where others could successfully hand hold their camera. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful. Perhaps others who have read your question can give you their opinions / experiences.
I have a feeling Sony is gonna come out with some new APSC bodies with improved IBIS and these lenses are a way of pushing sales towards said bodies. Just a feeling though, I could be wrong.
Good review and I loved that you covered astrophotography! Have you thought about getting a star tracker? the results will blow you away :) I'm interested the 11mm as someone who films in the dark with a ZV E10 and Gimble
Which ultra wide angle lens best choice for indoor real estate videography with Sony ZV-E10 camera ? 1. Sony 10-20mm 2. Sony 11mm f.8 Or any other option
The old 10-18 f4 OSS will still be better for photography. I hate the PZ for photography. It is slow and sips the battery. A bit of weathersealing is nice to have though.
No way. You can zoom manually on new lens if that matters. For fotography sharpness is essential. And new lens in a completely new league and more compact and lightweight.
Nice review! Please note that the best results can be obtained using no OSS or IBIS but rather utilizing gyroscopic data from the camera with Sony Catalyst Browse/Prepare. So, in actuality, if the best stabilization is what you want then it doesn't matter which lens you choose but rather which camera. A ZV-E10 or a7IV shooting cropped (e.g. 4K 60p) would be ideal with these APS-C lenses.
Hi ! Can anyone help me with some advice ? I am currently shooting some POV videos with my iPhone 11 Pro ultra wide angle lens which I understand is a 13 mm lens. My question is, if I get a full frame mirrorless, which lens should I get in order to replicate the image from the iPhone ( but better quality ) ? One important thing to consider is that I would like everything in frame to be in focus ( no bokeh ) and very good low light performance . Thank you !
I want that 11mm, Since I already have the sigma 16mm, very interested in the detail comparison with the 15mm from Sony. Glad to see new life and interest in the APS-C line. Now if only Sony made an APS-C camera with a flip screen and 10bit video recording, 👀
From what I get is that it is not worth upgrading, they are too close to each other regarding image quality, if you already have the 16mm. If you need a lighter lens then the 15mm is better since it is about half the weight of the sigma. If price is important then the Sigma is about half the price of the sony
Thanks Tony for this indepth review. I use the 10-18mm F4 in Full frame mode on my Sony A9 and this can be done using between 13mm-17mm without showing any vignette and getting ultra wide which I love. It would have been nice to see if the new 10-20mm F4 can be used in a full frame camera in full frame mode to see how it performs as regards vignette.
in your experience, is it feasible to use the 10-18 at 10mm in a 1:1 square instagram format using the full height of the FF sensor? a Lr preset could do the crop, fix distortion and residual vignette?
@@godsinbox 10-18mm you can never use it at 10mm in full frame mode. You get a heavy vignette created by the lens internal body itself. Square format can be used depends on your composition I would say. No Lr would not remove the vignette. The 10-18mm is usuable in FF mode from 13mm to 17mm only. And you need to remove the lense hood.
I don’t think the 10-20 can be used in secret ff mode. From this video looks like both in crop mode, the 10-20 is sharper. My question is comparing the 10-18 in ff mode vs 1020 in crop mode, that is the deciding factor. Because 10-20 might be sharper but with half resolution. 10-18 might be less sharp but with double resolution.
You said none of the Sony APS-C cameras have in body image stabilization. That's not true. The Sony A6600 has in body IS. It's not great but it does work.
@@Image1Nation i think maybe it can go from 14mm onwards without any issue, just need someone to test. if you changed to crop mode for this lens... i would go for 16-35 anytime! lol
Hello, I'm an avid fan of yours, and I love your content, which helps a lot in having effective results in a very efficient way. I'd like to know if there's a way to solve my problem. I edit student photos, and since it's a pandemic, getting them close for a class picture isn't allowed. That's why I used their individual images to compose a Virtual like class picture. The problem is that every image has a different focal length, so some photos look bigger than others. So I adjust them one by one in Photoshop, and it looks great, but it consumes a lot of time since I'm editing many photos. I wonder if there's a way to crop all images based on focal length so that images are of a consistent size and proportion with their classmates. The first method would be to have a tripod in the photoshoot session and leave the focal length as it is from the beginning up to the very end, but what if we use a shotgun photoshoot style? Is there a way we can use it to fix it in post-production? I'm looking forward to you covering it up in your RUclips content. I would appreciate any help you can provide.
Does anyone here have any advice on the Panasonic G7 focus problem. I hate it when the background in my videos fuzzes in and out. And the only way I can get any success is with a very plain, simple background. Trying to shoot by a tree has my face going in and out of focus just as much.
Something you should also test: the 10-18/4 is shockingly good on full frame in fullnframe mode - it has a surprisingly wide image circle. That's why I'm keeping my 10-18/4.
No, it's not magic. But you can get a pretty decent full frame image around 13mm. Widest picture would be at about 11mm but cropped in. Depending on your taste you might want to compensate for distortion and vignette.
Am I the only person that hates PZ lenses? I love my 10-18, been using it for the past year for vlogging and it is my favorite lens. OSS is essential for me since I shoot with an A6400 with no IBIS. Mine is sharp, not sure why yours has so many issues with IQ. Wish the 10-18 had some weather sealing, that’s the only thing the 10-20 has going for it.
What version of 10-18 f4 you tested? The older orange box or the newer white box? The older one had some problem and the sharpness was terrible at the edges. With the newer version it became a lot better.
Tony hates micro four thirds, the OM-1 is a revelation, makes my Sony A7 cameras seem like slow dinosaurs (like dslrs were not that long ago) MFT is a good lens ecosystem to be in.
You raise an interesting point. In the Sony ecosystem the APS-C line is treated as a 2nd rate "gateway camera" to hook you and then move you to their full frame line of bodies and lenses. From a marketing standpoint I can't blame them. Every time I use my A6300 for a I hear the RUclips Influencers' voices in my head saying "If you really want bokeh you need a full frame" or "you'll never be able to make a large print from a photo taken with an APS-C sensor" or "You'd be shooting a lower ISO with full frame because of it's superior light gathering ability" etc. Yet - I consistently produce beautiful images with my A6300 and A6000 cameras. I recently printed 3 - 16"x20" images I took and used virtually no "Noise Reduction" in post and they are beautiful! But- back to your point. You like the OM-1. The folks using the Panasonic micro 4/3 system have an almost cultic enthusiasm for that system. Most recently a friend who always used medium and large format cameras in his studio has begun traveling the world- with his micro 4/3's kit. In my decision making model I looked at the price of a complete "Kit". What I determined was that I could afford to build out a really nice APS-C kit given the price of their bodies and lenses, but that I simply could NOT afford to build out a full frame kit. From a purely ergonomics standpoint I often wish I'd gone with the Panasonic line with their more "retro" layout of the controls.
AH! The new modern shirt pocket camera lenses! The E 10-18 can be used at 12mm in FF and 18mm if you remove the light shield. Yes everyone wants a video lens but the low end of 10mm = 15mm in 35mm and 16mm is the preferred focal length for indoor architectural photography and on a IBIS camera a fast in and out with no sticks even doing 3 @ +/- 2ev bracketing!!!! The 10-18mm was my goto lens for astro at 12mm in 2015 at f/4 there was plenty of light even at ISO 3200 for pin point no coma stars at 20s, A 12mm f/4 did not come out till 2017 and the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 had bad mustache and coma/elongated stars in corners. the E 10-18 was the Sony cornerstone lens like the FE 16-35mm f/4 for wideness. The 10-18 is also so so small and this 10-20mm smaller still. I keep two lenses and a A7iii the 10-18mm and 24-240mm in my everyday going anywhere small teardrop bag with extras like blower, battery, datacolor cube on a selfie stick plus others stuff. For stills the 10-20mm would be a good to have also. On a full frame in aps-c you get 15-30 maybe a 12mm in full frame, in a super small lens that looks like an old film lens and brings no attention when anywhere and for more use the in camera pano function (tricky but looks good in a pinch) looks great and sharp at the Grand Canyon.
I used the 11-20 Tamron for a while in my Real Estate Photography. It seemed to do a better job of handling flare and window bloom than my 10-18 Sony BUT it would miss focus on 1 room in about every 5 or 6 houses. That doesn't seem like much I know, but in RE photography you have to blow through a property in a hurry. It always seemed to miss focus on a room that I only took 1 photo in - not 2 or 3 meaning I had to return to the property to re-shoot 1 room. I subsequently sold it and bought the 10-20 reviewed here. IT hasn't missed focus yet!
Will anybody actually buy a new aps-c lens, when they dont know if Sony will produce new A6xxx cameras? The a6600 is 3 years and just rumours and rumours of new cameras.
@@liviuvelichi6847 I meant to say these are the lenses Nikon “should have” made. Sony is making what Nikon made years ago with APS-C cameras and lenses.
I'll watch your videos😍, they are very useful💪❤️,i very very like to take photos,If you can help me get a camera. I love canon cameras but in my country they are expensive.😔
@@Astrolavista im looking everyday about secondhand cameras in my country.They are expensive and close to the price of new ones. I think the reason is the country's collapsed economy.
@@muzlee7479 The value of the dollar in my country is $ 1 = 359.44 Lkr The country is facing that situation because of fraudulent politicians. So today ordinary people put aside their dreams and try to make ends meet. The monthly income is 40,000 and 30,000 of them have to be spent. A new DSLR camera costs over $ 100,000 and a used one costs over $ 30,000. So it was just a dream for me sir ...😔
10-20 f4 only suitable for vloggers ;-( Most of the 6xxx owners do own camera bodies without stabilization. What a fail, no OSS and PZ for photographers! Even with 6600 an OSS lens delivers better stabi as the one built in the camera body
Sony lost their minds completely. They made a lens for Video with powerzoom and don't include OSS inside. TRYIng to SQUEEZE OUT EVERY DOLLAR FROM THE CONSUMERS with these cheap shit they produce and high markup prices.
![Yeat & Quavo - 5BRAZY [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4XxnTAwyxus/mqdefault.jpg)
I had a really bad financial time in my life and I had to sell all my good Sony gear, cameras and G Master lenses. All I was left with was my little sony a6400 and I needed a wider lens to shoot some real estate. I think I’ll go with the new lens as I don’t do video. Good review. This helped me make a choice.
I have Sony a7iv. The 10-18 has a secret mode where zooming at 12 you remove the vignette being still in full frame mode (not apsc crop). What about the new 10-20? If you crop in can you remove the vignetting without apsc mode?
Thanks for this review. Despite missing that the a6600 DOES have image stabilization, I really appreciate the attention to this whole line up of Sony cameras.
He was not referring to ibis but to active digital stabily
@@maximecaron3133 thanks for clarifying
Great review! I'm a Real Estate Photographer and the new 10-20G is MUCH better than my older 10-18 in handling window bloom. I use the new lens with the Sony Circular Polarizer (with the Zeiss coating) and it has virtually eliminated my need for flash for windows pulls.
Hi Brad, do you have to use gimbal then with the 10-20G for interior stills? I’m assuming taking stills in low light would still be shaky at f4?
@@akirahojo2 I'm probably the wrong person to ask for 2 reasons - 1) I do use a tripod for my interior photos because I shoot 3-5 brackets at different exposures that allow me to create a HDR or composite photograph. 2) I have a back injury that causes me to shake pretty badly when holding a camera up to my eyes so I tend to use a tripod or monopod in situations where others could successfully hand hold their camera. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful. Perhaps others who have read your question can give you their opinions / experiences.
I have a feeling Sony is gonna come out with some new APSC bodies with improved IBIS and these lenses are a way of pushing sales towards said bodies. Just a feeling though, I could be wrong.
We don't need 4K 120 or 40 FPS like Fuji, We just need an updated ZV-E10 or A6XXX. Cheap but with 4K60P, IBIS, big battery.
…Enters the A6700!!!!
Good review and I loved that you covered astrophotography! Have you thought about getting a star tracker? the results will blow you away :) I'm interested the 11mm as someone who films in the dark with a ZV E10 and Gimble
He broke his own advice on not getting star trails, and not representing the noise you would get without a tracker.
Thank you so much for this comprehensive review Tony and Chelsea this will age like fine wine!
Which ultra wide angle lens best choice for indoor real estate videography with Sony ZV-E10 camera ?
1. Sony 10-20mm
2. Sony 11mm f.8
Or any other option
The old 10-18 f4 OSS will still be better for photography. I hate the PZ for photography. It is slow and sips the battery. A bit of weathersealing is nice to have though.
No way. You can zoom manually on new lens if that matters. For fotography sharpness is essential. And new lens in a completely new league and more compact and lightweight.
Nice review! Please note that the best results can be obtained using no OSS or IBIS but rather utilizing gyroscopic data from the camera with Sony Catalyst Browse/Prepare. So, in actuality, if the best stabilization is what you want then it doesn't matter which lens you choose but rather which camera. A ZV-E10 or a7IV shooting cropped (e.g. 4K 60p) would be ideal with these APS-C lenses.
Bro what it's literally not available anywhere including your link???? 1200 used LOL
Hi ! Can anyone help me with some advice ? I am currently shooting some POV videos with my iPhone 11 Pro ultra wide angle lens which I understand is a 13 mm lens. My question is, if I get a full frame mirrorless, which lens should I get in order to replicate the image from the iPhone ( but better quality ) ? One important thing to consider is that I would like everything in frame to be in focus ( no bokeh ) and very good low light performance . Thank you !
This is a good one. Sony 10-20 f4. Currently on sale at Best Buy. Enjoy your new camera.
@@relaxedcurious thank you! 🙏
@@iamleon777 You're welcome
Hello! Can you please compare gopro wide with sony 10-20mm? With gimbal and without gimbal.
For this camera, would you go with the Sony 11-20 F4 (because of the OSS) or Tamron 11-20 F2.8 (because of lower aperature)?
Does the 10-20 work on fullframe camera without super-35 mode? How does it compare to the 10-18? For someone who would like a superwide and cheap lens
I want that 11mm,
Since I already have the sigma 16mm, very interested in the detail comparison with the 15mm from Sony. Glad to see new life and interest in the APS-C line. Now if only Sony made an APS-C camera with a flip screen and 10bit video recording, 👀
From what I get is that it is not worth upgrading, they are too close to each other regarding image quality, if you already have the 16mm. If you need a lighter lens then the 15mm is better since it is about half the weight of the sigma. If price is important then the Sigma is about half the price of the sony
Thanks Tony for this indepth review. I use the 10-18mm F4 in Full frame mode on my Sony A9 and this can be done using between 13mm-17mm without showing any vignette and getting ultra wide which I love. It would have been nice to see if the new 10-20mm F4 can be used in a full frame camera in full frame mode to see how it performs as regards vignette.
in your experience, is it feasible to use the 10-18 at 10mm in a 1:1 square instagram format using the full height of the FF sensor? a Lr preset could do the crop, fix distortion and residual vignette?
@@godsinbox 10-18mm you can never use it at 10mm in full frame mode. You get a heavy vignette created by the lens internal body itself. Square format can be used depends on your composition I would say. No Lr would not remove the vignette. The 10-18mm is usuable in FF mode from 13mm to 17mm only. And you need to remove the lense hood.
@@Alexander-mo7ke You cannot use it. There is still the vignette when you are zooming. Just saw the the video from Jason Vong and he showed it.
I don’t think the 10-20 can be used in secret ff mode.
From this video looks like both in crop mode, the 10-20 is sharper. My question is comparing the 10-18 in ff mode vs 1020 in crop mode, that is the deciding factor. Because 10-20 might be sharper but with half resolution. 10-18 might be less sharp but with double resolution.
You said none of the Sony APS-C cameras have in body image stabilization. That's not true. The Sony A6600 has in body IS. It's not great but it does work.
Were the tests at the beginning done on a tripod with optical stabilization turned on? It seems unusual how blurry the OSS version is
should i get this or the 16-35 PZ version? i am using A7IV :)
Same question. The apsc lens will be half the megapixel though.
@@Image1Nation i think maybe it can go from 14mm onwards without any issue, just need someone to test. if you changed to crop mode for this lens... i would go for 16-35 anytime! lol
Why would you do that? Get some proper glass for the camera.
4:20 the a6600 has a flip screen and sensor stablisation?
I was going to make this comment as well. The a6600 is such a good apsc.
Hello, I'm an avid fan of yours, and I love your content, which helps a lot in having effective results in a very efficient way.
I'd like to know if there's a way to solve my problem. I edit student photos, and since it's a pandemic, getting them close for a class picture isn't allowed. That's why I used their individual images to compose a Virtual like class picture. The problem is that every image has a different focal length, so some photos look bigger than others. So I adjust them one by one in Photoshop, and it looks great, but it consumes a lot of time since I'm editing many photos. I wonder if there's a way to crop all images based on focal length so that images are of a consistent size and proportion with their classmates. The first method would be to have a tripod in the photoshoot session and leave the focal length as it is from the beginning up to the very end, but what if we use a shotgun photoshoot style? Is there a way we can use it to fix it in post-production?
I'm looking forward to you covering it up in your RUclips content. I would appreciate any help you can provide.
The old 10-18mm with an ND filter showed the edges of a filter at the widest end. I'm curious if the new 10-20 has the same problem.
it happens to all ultra wide
Ha I get the Severance reference. Immediately noticed they just used a zoom to change the perspective distortion in the elevator
I'm korean. I don't speak eng. but your youtuve very useful!!!
Does anyone here have any advice on the Panasonic G7 focus problem. I hate it when the background in my videos fuzzes in and out. And the only way I can get any success is with a very plain, simple background. Trying to shoot by a tree has my face going in and out of focus just as much.
Manual focus.
Isn’t panasonic famous for their awful autofocus?
Something you should also test: the 10-18/4 is shockingly good on full frame in fullnframe mode - it has a surprisingly wide image circle. That's why I'm keeping my 10-18/4.
can you do 1:1 square images at 10mm using the full height of FF sensor, without bad distortion or vignette?
No, it's not magic. But you can get a pretty decent full frame image around 13mm. Widest picture would be at about 11mm but cropped in. Depending on your taste you might want to compensate for distortion and vignette.
Thanks for this.
Given ApS-C is back, a bit surprised we haven’t heard about the Canon R7, R10 from y’all. What do you think?!
Hi, The lens mirroless of the canon "R" can be use in the Canon R7 APS-C? Thanks.
Only RF and RF-S lenses can be used on the R7 without a converter
4:14 ... A6600.... exists
Love how small it is. I was wondering, how is the eye-af on the newest Sony APS-C cameras like the ZV-E10 compared to Sony full frame cameras?
zve10 autofocus is just like the full frame autofocus, both work great.
@@truthseeker6804 Awesome, thanks!
Great review. How's your voice? Sounds like you were losing it.
when is the sony 11mm review coming!
Am I the only person that hates PZ lenses?
I love my 10-18, been using it for the past year for vlogging and it is my favorite lens. OSS is essential for me since I shoot with an A6400 with no IBIS. Mine is sharp, not sure why yours has so many issues with IQ. Wish the 10-18 had some weather sealing, that’s the only thing the 10-20 has going for it.
What version of 10-18 f4 you tested? The older orange box or the newer white box? The older one had some problem and the sharpness was terrible at the edges. With the newer version it became a lot better.
Tony hates micro four thirds, the OM-1 is a revelation, makes my Sony A7 cameras seem like slow dinosaurs (like dslrs were not that long ago)
MFT is a good lens ecosystem to be in.
You raise an interesting point. In the Sony ecosystem the APS-C line is treated as a 2nd rate "gateway camera" to hook you and then move you to their full frame line of bodies and lenses. From a marketing standpoint I can't blame them. Every time I use my A6300 for a I hear the RUclips Influencers' voices in my head saying "If you really want bokeh you need a full frame" or "you'll never be able to make a large print from a photo taken with an APS-C sensor" or "You'd be shooting a lower ISO with full frame because of it's superior light gathering ability" etc. Yet - I consistently produce beautiful images with my A6300 and A6000 cameras. I recently printed 3 - 16"x20" images I took and used virtually no "Noise Reduction" in post and they are beautiful! But- back to your point. You like the OM-1. The folks using the Panasonic micro 4/3 system have an almost cultic enthusiasm for that system. Most recently a friend who always used medium and large format cameras in his studio has begun traveling the world- with his micro 4/3's kit. In my decision making model I looked at the price of a complete "Kit". What I determined was that I could afford to build out a really nice APS-C kit given the price of their bodies and lenses, but that I simply could NOT afford to build out a full frame kit. From a purely ergonomics standpoint I often wish I'd gone with the Panasonic line with their more "retro" layout of the controls.
I suppose I'll keep my 10-18. I have IBIS but I don't think it's worth the upgrade. I rather grab one of the new 15 or 11 lenses for stills.
At 4:15, by "no Sony APS-C", you mean "... other than the A6600", right?
A little off topic, but you could totally rock a Christopher Pike from Strange New Worlds cosplay.
I still await a good, tiny, weathersealed, modern G series 23mm f1.8 OSS lens. No good 35 for the Sony APS-C
Zeiss 24/1.8 apsc ls a gem
@@PeteLovesPixels priced like one too.
Does taking photo of the sun like that risks burn on the sensor?
You actually have the product to review.....woop
Can't Wait!
a great release again byy sony! too bad i switched to m43 : P otherwise i'd take that 10-20mm!
Woah soo good review 🎉🎉
I am now sold.❤❤
Hopefully the upcoming review will involve the equivalent Fujifilm lenses.
4:23 a6600 an I a joke? My IBIS doesn't count? kkkk
AH! The new modern shirt pocket camera lenses! The E 10-18 can be used at 12mm in FF and 18mm if you remove the light shield. Yes everyone wants a video lens but the low end of 10mm = 15mm in 35mm and 16mm is the preferred focal length for indoor architectural photography and on a IBIS camera a fast in and out with no sticks even doing 3 @ +/- 2ev bracketing!!!! The 10-18mm was my goto lens for astro at 12mm in 2015 at f/4 there was plenty of light even at ISO 3200 for pin point no coma stars at 20s, A 12mm f/4 did not come out till 2017 and the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 had bad mustache and coma/elongated stars in corners. the E 10-18 was the Sony cornerstone lens like the FE 16-35mm f/4 for wideness. The 10-18 is also so so small and this 10-20mm smaller still. I keep two lenses and a A7iii the 10-18mm and 24-240mm in my everyday going anywhere small teardrop bag with extras like blower, battery, datacolor cube on a selfie stick plus others stuff. For stills the 10-20mm would be a good to have also. On a full frame in aps-c you get 15-30 maybe a 12mm in full frame, in a super small lens that looks like an old film lens and brings no attention when anywhere and for more use the in camera pano function (tricky but looks good in a pinch) looks great and sharp at the Grand Canyon.
You should compare it with Tamron 11-20 2.8that already exists.
I used the 11-20 Tamron for a while in my Real Estate Photography. It seemed to do a better job of handling flare and window bloom than my 10-18 Sony BUT it would miss focus on 1 room in about every 5 or 6 houses. That doesn't seem like much I know, but in RE photography you have to blow through a property in a hurry. It always seemed to miss focus on a room that I only took 1 photo in - not 2 or 3 meaning I had to return to the property to re-shoot 1 room. I subsequently sold it and bought the 10-20 reviewed here. IT hasn't missed focus yet!
Pretty impressive
4:55 dolly zoom 😄
Pretty good sunstars.
Tony Northrup or Billy Bob Thornton?? 🧐
New lens makes the sky a bit purple
Will anybody actually buy a new aps-c lens, when they dont know if Sony will produce new A6xxx cameras?
The a6600 is 3 years and just rumours and rumours of new cameras.
I’m surprised that Sony has taken over the lens productions from Nikon. These are the lens that Nikon “should have” made.
Sony did what now? Taken over Nikon? What, they bought manufacturing facilities from Nikon?
@@liviuvelichi6847 I meant to say these are the lenses Nikon “should have” made. Sony is making what Nikon made years ago with APS-C cameras and lenses.
I'll watch your videos😍, they are very useful💪❤️,i very very like to take photos,If you can help me get a camera. I love canon cameras but in my country they are expensive.😔
Why would anyone help you get a camera?
Do you have Ebay? or any access to the second hand market? You can pick up 10-12 year old Canon DSLR's very affordably now days.
@@muzlee7479 😔😔
@@Astrolavista im looking everyday about secondhand cameras in my country.They are expensive and close to the price of new ones. I think the reason is the country's collapsed economy.
@@muzlee7479 The value of the dollar in my country is $ 1 = 359.44 Lkr The country is facing that situation because of fraudulent politicians. So today ordinary people put aside their dreams and try to make ends meet.
The monthly income is 40,000 and 30,000 of them have to be spent. A new DSLR camera costs over $ 100,000 and a used one costs over $ 30,000.
So it was just a dream for me sir ...😔
No oss for the 10-20mm that’s made for handheld vlogging? Pass
says "can zoom without any jerky moments".......then covers it with a shaky zooming B-roll shot 😑😑
10-20 f4 only suitable for vloggers ;-( Most of the 6xxx owners do own camera bodies without stabilization. What a fail, no OSS and PZ for photographers! Even with 6600 an OSS lens delivers better stabi as the one built in the camera body
It’s not only for vlogging
A6600 has ibis
You also compare it with a 10-18 WHICH SUCKED
the horror zoom take didnt impress the dog...
Join us at Triangular Earth, we have a point
More like 3
Sony lost their minds completely. They made a lens for Video with powerzoom and don't include OSS inside. TRYIng to SQUEEZE OUT EVERY DOLLAR FROM THE CONSUMERS with these cheap shit they produce and high markup prices.
with the new r7 and r10 why should anyone waste my money on these sony apsc. sony needs to step up their apsc game.
yes lenses, i know thats what you're gonna say. just get ef an adapter.
@@truthseeker6804 native lenses are always better. To to mention sony is way cheaper.
@@muzlee7479 not always better, in some circumstances theyre even. efs lense are also cheap.
@@truthseeker6804 somehow I doubt any ef s canon lense could get even with new sigma glass