God that Super Duty is Beautiful, and as an 82nd Airborne Veteran probably a similar scheme to what I would use. I just started my PPL training in a Cirrus SR20, I’m debating between STOL plane or something like TL stream that has more of a fighter feel. I guess time will steer me towards my mission. Late start in GA for me at 49, but I can finally afford it. Great Channel!
As I do little things on my plane. You have set a new bar. Just doing the carpet isn’t enough. Now I am constructing all new trim pieces. I’ll take the flitz to my ignition next. I’ll need a second hangar soon. One flying plane and at least one project plane. Someone has to save these things.
Mark, 304,304L & 316 are all Stainless Steels. To drill these properly use Cobalt bits and a slow RPM for the best results. You can either Polish the surface to a mirror finish or Burnish the surface with Scotch Brite pads to get a beautiful Brushed finish. You just need to make sure you use pressure and continuous linier strokes all the same direction. I am a retired Stainless fabricator & welding repair Shop for kitchens and accessories.
Just a suggestion in place of sand or bead blasting the air frame look into, having it blasted with Walnut shells. It is less destructive then both sand and bead.
It's easy to inspect for cracks even though it's primed. The fuselage is in great shape. There's just a few issues on the front half and those issues are 100% due to improper build.
when using a white top coat you should use a buff primer , it take less paint to cover the undercoat saving weight on the air-frame and always looks a brighter white
I can't weld on a painted tube, so the paint has to be removed before sand blasting. I may strip the paint off the areas that need welded, then weld, then have the whole thing blasted.
G,day Mark from Sydney Australia. Has your paint booth enough mechanical ventilation to remove paint particles from the air? Do you wear a respirator? 🌏🇦🇺
Yes. If I just point the paint gun in the air and pull the trigger, the paint particles immediately turn and head for the exhaust fan. I do still wear a resp but about 2 minutes after I’m done painting a part I can go in the booth without it and barely smell anything. The booth works really well.
Awesome to see! looking forward to more videos around the Pitts as I am currently rebuilding one here in NZ. I do like the idea of the fuel cap fairings!!!!
You can also do an old time swirl look with a cheep buffer and Scotch Brite pad attached. Start with a Green pad then go to a Red pad. Common stuff at a good hardware store.
God that Super Duty is Beautiful, and as an 82nd Airborne Veteran probably a similar scheme to what I would use. I just started my PPL training in a Cirrus SR20, I’m debating between STOL plane or something like TL stream that has more of a fighter feel. I guess time will steer me towards my mission. Late start in GA for me at 49, but I can finally afford it. Great Channel!
As I do little things on my plane. You have set a new bar. Just doing the carpet isn’t enough. Now I am constructing all new trim pieces. I’ll take the flitz to my ignition next.
I’ll need a second hangar soon. One flying plane and at least one project plane. Someone has to save these things.
Mark, 304,304L & 316 are all Stainless Steels. To drill these properly use Cobalt bits and a slow RPM for the best results. You can either Polish the surface to a mirror finish or Burnish the surface with Scotch Brite pads to get a beautiful Brushed finish. You just need to make sure you use pressure and continuous linier strokes all the same direction.
I am a retired Stainless fabricator & welding repair Shop for kitchens and accessories.
I’ll have to get some detailed instructions from you on how to polish it. It sure would look good super shiny!
Just a suggestion in place of sand or bead blasting the air frame look into, having it blasted with Walnut shells. It is less destructive then both sand and bead.
Soooo cool… thanks for sharing
thanks for the video. The pitts is what brought me to your channel.
are you going to get the Fuse frame Sand blasted so that you can verify that there are no more Cracks or breaks anywhere else?
It's easy to inspect for cracks even though it's primed. The fuselage is in great shape. There's just a few issues on the front half and those issues are 100% due to improper build.
when using a white top coat you should use a buff primer , it take less paint to cover the undercoat saving weight on the air-frame and always looks a brighter white
what happened to your recent videos?? They disappeared
Mark, are you going to use Plain steel or Stainless Steel for the fire Wall?
It's 304 steel, but off hand I'm not sure if it's stainless or regular steel.
Just a thought, have you considered getting the welding done before bead blasting thereby eliminating the risk if getting the bead media in the frame.
I can't weld on a painted tube, so the paint has to be removed before sand blasting. I may strip the paint off the areas that need welded, then weld, then have the whole thing blasted.
G,day Mark from Sydney Australia. Has your paint booth enough mechanical ventilation to remove paint particles from the air? Do you wear a respirator?
🌏🇦🇺
Yes. If I just point the paint gun in the air and pull the trigger, the paint particles immediately turn and head for the exhaust fan. I do still wear a resp but about 2 minutes after I’m done painting a part I can go in the booth without it and barely smell anything. The booth works really well.
Awesome to see! looking forward to more videos around the Pitts as I am currently rebuilding one here in NZ. I do like the idea of the fuel cap fairings!!!!
You can also do an old time swirl look with a cheep buffer and Scotch Brite pad attached. Start with a Green pad then go to a Red pad. Common stuff at a good hardware store.