I did this job today. Both ends are splined Couple of key notes. Both splines on the intermediate shaft are identical. The spline count gives you about a 10° per spline (roughly 36 spline total) adjustment capability for the rotation of the steering wheel. So it’s not very precise if you’re trying to get the steering wheel exactly straight. You might, however, get totally lucky! Both bolts on the shaft are 12 mm. The shaft on the steering wheel side is not adjustable by trying to rotate to a difference spline. The shaft will only fit pretty much on a given set of splines. Unlike the shaft on the steering rack side which has a groove the entire perimeter of the shaft the steering wheel side shaft only has a notch on one side of the shaft. That’s why you can’t adjust on the steering wheel side. It has to be done on the rack side. It’s quite easy to pull the shaft off all underneath the jacked up car. You are able to pull it off and rotate the spline one at a time. I would make a mark on the intermediate shaft and rack shaft where they meet with a white marker as a reference when trying to adjust.
Great video! I placed a mark on the steering shaft and vehicle, after removing the old steering shaft mark the new steering shaft at same location as the old one. Line the marks back up when you put in the new steering shaft and no alignment needed.
This video was a big help! I was able to move the steering wheel around as needed to access both bolts before disconnecting the shaft. I then lowered the car a bit so the right side front tire was on the ground in the straight ahead position. This would hold the correct orientation. I then changed out the shaft and made sure the steering wheel was straight as I re-connected the shaft. Everything came out great with the wheel straight as can be. No alignment needed. It was a little difficult to remove the shaft at the steering wheel connection but I was able get a long bar up on it and give it a few taps which popped it off. Getting the new one on up in there was a bit difficult as well but stick with it and it will go!
Awesome video. Changed mine on a 2012 Highlander SE V6 FWD. Getting access to remove and torque both bolts was a challenge. Removal of Intermediate Shaft from splines was challenging, used pry bar. Could torque bottom 12mm bolt to 26lb-ft, but not enough room for torque wrench to fit for top 12mm bolt, hand tightened. Must have missed a spline notch by one because my steering wheel alignment was off, but a wheel alignment at a shop fixed that ($80).
No, when the car was in park, spin the wheel back and forth quickly, you’ll hear that play in the wheel. It’s like a “clunk” when going back and forth quickly.
Gracias por este video me ayudo, mi Highlander tiene un golpe detrás del volante cuando giró o ya do hago un Cruze y el pavimento es un regular, y de seguro es ese eje de dirección
Did you end up doing a wheel alignment ? Saw in forums that ppl suggested placing match marks to put everything back in the same position but I see it hard to reach into the steering shaft under steering wheel
They do suggest doing the match marks but I didn’t. My wheel was a little crooked but the car still drove perfectly straight. An alignment or the marks would be a good idea
Would this issue cause whole vehicle vibration between 75-85mph on a 2008 Highlander Hybrid? The 2008 Highlander Hybrid has a TSB for the intermediate shaft and my vehicle definitely has a slight steering clunk at low speed.
@@JRESHOW nope all the wheels and tires are good, and another set was also put on so has to be something rotating other than the wheels / tires. Someone on TN forum mentioned that the passenger side axel has a bearing in it - pretty long , could be shot?
Sorry for reviving an old comment but I had similar vibrations as yours on my 08 highlander AWD especially at 70+ mph. Replacing the whole rear drive shaft assembly (the part responsible for sending power to rear wheels) solved my vibration issue as you described. Just chiming in
I did this job today. Both ends are splined
Couple of key notes. Both splines on the intermediate shaft are identical. The spline count gives you about a 10° per spline (roughly 36 spline total) adjustment capability for the rotation of the steering wheel. So it’s not very precise if you’re trying to get the steering wheel exactly straight. You might, however, get totally lucky! Both bolts on the shaft are 12 mm. The shaft on the steering wheel side is not adjustable by trying to rotate to a difference spline. The shaft will only fit pretty much on a given set of splines. Unlike the shaft on the steering rack side which has a groove the entire perimeter of the shaft the steering wheel side shaft only has a notch on one side of the shaft. That’s why you can’t adjust on the steering wheel side. It has to be done on the rack side. It’s quite easy to pull the shaft off all underneath the jacked up car. You are able to pull it off and rotate the spline one at a time. I would make a mark on the intermediate shaft and rack shaft where they meet with a white marker as a reference when trying to adjust.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. Would have never attempted this without it.
Great video! I placed a mark on the steering shaft and vehicle, after removing the old steering shaft mark the new steering shaft at same location as the old one. Line the marks back up when you put in the new steering shaft and no alignment needed.
This video was a big help! I was able to move the steering wheel around as needed to access both bolts before disconnecting the shaft. I then lowered the car a bit so the right side front tire was on the ground in the straight ahead position. This would hold the correct orientation. I then changed out the shaft and made sure the steering wheel was straight as I re-connected the shaft. Everything came out great with the wheel straight as can be. No alignment needed. It was a little difficult to remove the shaft at the steering wheel connection but I was able get a long bar up on it and give it a few taps which popped it off. Getting the new one on up in there was a bit difficult as well but stick with it and it will go!
Awesome video. Changed mine on a 2012 Highlander SE V6 FWD. Getting access to remove and torque both bolts was a challenge. Removal of Intermediate Shaft from splines was challenging, used pry bar. Could torque bottom 12mm bolt to 26lb-ft, but not enough room for torque wrench to fit for top 12mm bolt, hand tightened. Must have missed a spline notch by one because my steering wheel alignment was off, but a wheel alignment at a shop fixed that ($80).
🙌🏼
So was the wheel clicking or vibrating? I didn't hear the problem exactly
No, when the car was in park, spin the wheel back and forth quickly, you’ll hear that play in the wheel. It’s like a “clunk” when going back and forth quickly.
Gracias por este video me ayudo, mi Highlander tiene un golpe detrás del volante cuando giró o ya do hago un Cruze y el pavimento es un regular, y de seguro es ese eje de dirección
Great job bro wondering where you get this part from any suggestions thanks
Advanced auto or Amazon if anything go to Toyota and get the part number
Did you end up doing a wheel alignment ? Saw in forums that ppl suggested placing match marks to put everything back in the same position but I see it hard to reach into the steering shaft under steering wheel
They do suggest doing the match marks but I didn’t. My wheel was a little crooked but the car still drove perfectly straight. An alignment or the marks would be a good idea
Thanks for providing info. How is the new shaft so far
Doing good. A lot tighter steering with no clunks :)
@@JRESHOW Awesome..! Your video gave me confidence I can do the same to my car
Only thing missing.... torque for both bolts should be 26ft-lbf / 35N-M
Was looking for that. Thanks
Would this issue cause whole vehicle vibration between 75-85mph on a 2008 Highlander Hybrid? The 2008 Highlander Hybrid has a TSB for the intermediate shaft and my vehicle definitely has a slight steering clunk at low speed.
No, not vibrations, but the slower speed clunk yes. The vibration could be the tires out of balance or possibly a bad tire. I’d start there.
@@JRESHOW nope all the wheels and tires are good, and another set was also put on so has to be something rotating other than the wheels / tires. Someone on TN forum mentioned that the passenger side axel has a bearing in it - pretty long , could be shot?
Jacana Productions could be bad axle.. not a pro.
@@JacanaProductions Or bad brake rotor
Sorry for reviving an old comment but I had similar vibrations as yours on my 08 highlander AWD especially at 70+ mph. Replacing the whole rear drive shaft assembly (the part responsible for sending power to rear wheels) solved my vibration issue as you described. Just chiming in
Great video.
Does this apply on a 2013?
I’m not sure but if you have the same symptoms and the clunk noise when moving the wheel back-and-forth is most likely the same issue
@@JRESHOW It seems to be a Toyota problem in general, not just Highlanders. I just got a 2009 and, sure enough, the klunk is there.
Next time remove the dashboard plastic and make it easier for yourself haha
Thatd make things too easy. Good to know tho lol
What dashboard plastic are you talking about? Does the lower dashboard plastic remove easily? You obviously are talking about the dashboard itself