0:44 you can use a vacuum to clean your super dusty lens in case you were not aware @scott Just connect a hose to your vacuum and don't touch your actual lens with it, but get it close enough to it while your camera is on a table top surface and it'll suck all the dust off of your lens and any debris that on the lens. I do this all the time and the lens on my camera looks like I just purchased my GX7 Mark II even though I've had it for a year. Much love bro!
How do you change the aperture when you RECORD? I can do it for taking pics however as soon as I hit record (VIDEO) the camera ZOOMS in and the AV setting is not the same anymore. Thank you!
It's really just a case that you have to change the settings before recording. If you do manual recording with different sequence of shots, you change the settings according to the lighting you're in, Vy, I hope that helps. You could leave it to auto settings, however, under video mode (the mode dial at the top with the video record icon.)
Thanks for enlightening me with regards to making use of this camera when choosing to operate it in the manual mode. Please keep posting tips which will enable me to get more pleasure if I can eventually bring it all together.
Thank you, I'm planning to put out a lot more content, I really want to post more regularly, at the current time I'm currently in the process of designing the feel and look of my photography business site, but certainly plan to put out a lot more content, so will post more videos soon :)
So l put my Camera on Manual mode. Now it’s telling me to set the Aperture. What should l put it on? I have cannon g7x mark ii. I mostly shoot indoors. Please give me numbers. On my screen l have F1/8 and F2.2. Tell me if l can change according to what’s good. ISO is on 1600. Will be waiting.
Hello, when you are indoors you will tend to find that it struggles to let in light. The higher the ISO means there is more grain noise added thus loss of quality. So to help on that front, what you can do is lower the ISO and if you have an independent light source you could use that to fill in the light. Having a wide open aperture like f/1.8 or f/2.2 would give you a shallower depth of field, but allows for more light in, it's useful in lowlight like indoors. Recording video is slightly different from pictures, if recording on a tripod you could get away with a shutter speed of 1/50 or 1/60. Once you reduce the ISO using an independent light will help compensate.
Hello, the trouble is, every lighting situation is different, what I mean is, whether you're outside or indoors, every room you go into has different lighting, some rooms are darker than others, some brighter than others, so it really all depends on the available light. It also depends on the style of portrait you aim for, typically, it's nice to have a shallow depth of field, so putting your aperture to f/1.8 means that you'll get a really shallow depth of field to blur out the background. It would then be a case of manually fixing your shutter speed which also acts as your exposure, so you'll find if you've set your aperture to f/1.8 if the screen appears overexposed, you may increase the shutter speed. So it all depends. The slowest you'd have it holding handheld would probably be about 1/50 as you wouldn't want camera shake, so again, it depends on the available light. Also bear in mind if the subjects such as people are moving, it's ideal to increase the shutter speed to above 1/250, if it appears a bit dark after setting it to an aperture of f/1.8 and setting the shutter speed above 1/250, try the last resort raising the ISO gradually to a desired exposure. I hope that helps you out!
Hi Scott, just brought this camera so getting used to it. what typical settings would you start with photography a person with a fish. in going to use it for carp fishing. low looking for low light (evening) and sunny (day time) while keeping the background blurry? thanks
A lot depends on the scenario and the backdrop as well, I mean, one of the most difficult conditions to shoot in is when you have the full blown sun with no clouds as it creates sharp contrasting light and often whilst you may expose for a subject that might be in shade, the background could blow out. However, with that being said, you would want to open the aperture to the widest point it can go and zoom in on the subject you are photographing. When you zoom in on the subject, the widest aperture on that camera is probably f/2.2 not f/1.8 you will find zoomed out you can get f/1.8 but due to the wide angle focal length zoomed out it may not create the same desired effect with the bokeh background. So you set the aperture to the widest point (f/2.2) whilst zoomed in. Depending on available light and whether the camera at that stage is under or over exposed, check your ISO is set to 125 the lowest point and then set the shutter speed. If handheld, the slowest you would use it might be 50, if that appears still too under exposed, that is when you slightly raise the ISO to desired exposure. I hope that helps to some degree :)
So, what would be a standard aperture and shutter speed for landscape, and same question for portrait? I'm using Auto all the time and not getting full use of the camera.
Hi Neil, It really varies on the available light because you could be photographing a landscape at any given time of the day. Sunsets and sunrise obviously have lower light available to that of what you would see during mid-day, especially if the sun is out. They key is understanding the relationship between the aperture, shutter speed and ISO; the ISO is your last resort, when it comes to landscape, you can get away with keeping it at 100 because if you have the camera set up on a tripod, you can compensate by slowing the shutter speed down to allow light into the camera, that is, of course, if you're photographing in lower light conditions. Typically, I would set a narrow aperture first, then I would choose the shutter speed. The shutter speed also acts as your exposure; a faster shutter speed leads to a darker exposure and the slower shutter speed results in a brighter exposure. It's important to understand this relationship because you're always going to be faced with different lighting conditions wherever you are.
Portraits can vary, but typically, photographing with a shallow depth of field means using the wide open aperture, that's the fundamentals. There's nothing stopping you photographing someone with a narrower aperture, it just means the background will also be in focus, you typically only use that for a technique when you fill in with flash and that's taking things onto flash photography. I wouldn't concern over that too much though, but I hope that helps :)
Understandable, Neil, when it comes to photographing portraits of a family member or whoever you're with and you wish to capture them with the backdrop, that's when you would put the aperture narrow to something like f/8.0 or even f/11.0. However, the narrower the aperture, the darker the exposure, because of the narrower aperture lets in less light, you might then set your exposure (shutter speed) to 1/50. If using handheld, I don't think you would get away with shooting any slower than that, you might, but any slower, you might start to see camera shake when capturing photographs. So when you use the camera handheld and say you have set your aperture to narrow to capture the background also in focus, you may then try and get the shutter speed as slow as you can. You'll know the threshold. Saying that, again, that depends on your lighting environment, if it's really bright and sunny during mid-day, you may find setting the narrower aperture to f/11 may still appear slightly over exposed, so you increase the shutter speed in that sense. This really depends whether it's over exposed or under exposed. The other alternative would be to slightly increase the ISO, it's not that bad. I would try limit the ISO use, however, with that camera, I wouldn't go above 800 unless absolutely necessary. Another note about portraits, if the person has their back to the sun and you're shooting in the direction of the sun, it'll create a dark shade, so how do you capture that portrait? Well, expose first for the background, your subject may then appear really dark, all you do then is turn the flash on. That's something to practice. Try and use the sun as your tool, if the sun points diagonally down at an angle it can be useful for lighting your subject. Also, you wouldn't want them facing directly into the sun, their eyes screw up because it's so bright. These are all wee useful hints. I reckon once you get the practice you'll take some decent shots with it, I'm sure of that :)
Hi Scott, I’m new to photography. I was advised to get this camera to mainly do photos of the kids. The thing is the background only goes to f2.8. I want to go to f1.8. I’m at a loss as what to do. I’ve watched this. Idea of yours over and over but I’m no completely sure what buttons you are pressing. Sorry to be a dimwit.
Hi Tina, what you tend to find is that when you zoom in with your focal length, typically lenses that enable you to zoom in and given the Canon G7X Mark II enables you to zoom in using the ring, it stops down the aperture. In other words, if you zoom in the widest open aperture you'll get is probably f/2.8, when zoomed out to the widest focal length the widest open aperture you will get is f/1.8. As for the buttons, well, setting to manual might be a bit advanced and into the deep end when just starting, it's good to practice starting off on 'P' mode which you'll find on the dial at the top of your camera, when in 'P' mode you'll see only one box bottom of the screen as 'P' mode only allows you to manually set ISO. It's useful for practicing with ISO. A higher ISO number introduces more grain noise but more light into the camera, but a lower ISO number improves image quality with less grain noise, but darker. It's useful to play about with in that mode. Then moving onto TV mode which is essentially the mode that enables you to manually set your shutter speed and ISO; the faster the shutter speed you'll notice the darker the exposure, but slower, the brighter. It's useful to practice with that. Indoors when photographing kids moving about you'd typically want a shutter speed fast enough to capture the kids without motion blur, which might be 1/200 or 1/250. Depends and as last resort, increasing ISO if too dark, it's all about experimenting. AV mode is aperture priority mode, that simply means the camera will auto set the shutter speed for you, but you can manually set the ISO and aperture. Aperture being the depth of field. Shallow depth of field for wide open aperture, much like f/1.8 or f/1.2. It's useful for experimenting. M (Manual Mode) is when you gain a bit more experience and you feel comfortable manually adjusting the settings.
Thank you Scotty for the aperture lesson on the Canon g7x mark 2. This is all new to me as I’ve never owned a DSR type of camera before . With my g7x mark 2 I always have it on auto mode to take photos or make videos. It’s good to learn about the manual mode so you can to get the very best out of your camera. Hopefully you will make more videos like this one on how to use your Canon g7x mark ii in manual mode. Greetings from Perth Australia.
Thank you, Craig, indeed, understanding the functionality of manual takes things to a whole new level and you get a hell of a lot more fun out of it. I'm certainly glad that it is of help to people such as yourself. As I mentioned in this video about the lighting conditions, you live in a typically very bright sunny country, so in your circumstance having the wide open aperture outside would mean compensating with a faster shutter speed. You are very lucky over there, so much great nature.
Hi, sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner, within the first menu when you press on the menu button, there is an option under menu 1 called Reverse Display, you can turn that on or off. Hope that helps.
thanks Scott. Just got mine yesterday and already have some questions. First off though, nice video and I like the photos you've added to demonstrate the ideas you're going over here. Today, I tried to get the bokeh effect, first with the "blurry background" feature on the SCN setting. Its okay but not quite as dramatic as I wanted. Then I tried switching to the AV setting for aperture priority. I could do it outside with flowers without much issue. But when i tried inside with fluorescent lighting, I could not get the faces of my subjects to stand out at all. Simply put, the depth of field was deep under fluorescent lighting and I played with focus and f-stop. Any ideas on this? Much appreciated....
There are two ways; the first would be to zoom into a subject which you should test out and you will find that when you zoom in to telephoto range (70mm above) the background around the subject you focus on blurs out. You tend to find that if you set the aperture to f/1.8 and you have the focal length set at 24mm or 28mm or whatever the widest focal distance you set at, when set to wide angle, there's going to be less bokeh. I've never particularly used SCN mode, but each of those SCN modes are preset settings from manual anyway, in other words; portrait SCN mode without me looking at it, I understand it would use a wide open aperture of say f/1.8 on that camera. So my advice is, when in manual mode, set your aperture to f/1.8 and test taking pictures at a wide angle focal distance and then compare that to shooting at telephoto, say when you zoom into 70mm or above and you will notice the difference. Yes, the aperture priority mode is useful for outdoors when light constantly changes all the time, such as the sun going behind clouds. What aperture priority mode allows you to set is the aperture value to either wide open or narrow for shallow or extended depth of field. What the camera does in aperture priority mode is it automatically sets your shutter speed/exposure for you to match whatever aperture you set. The wide open aperture lets more light into the camera, so if it's really bright outside and you use a aperture of f/1.8 in aperture priority, the camera will automatically set your shutter speed (exposure) to a fast shutter speed, say, over 1/1000 of a second, it does this to correct exposure. That's why when using AV mode (aperture priority) you had no problem, because the camera automatically sets it for you. It also depends on the SCN mode which you used, try setting the camera to M mode, set the aperture wide open to f/1.8 this will allow a lot more light into the camera and it will allow a really shallow depth of field, if it appears over exposed, ensure the ISO is set lower, the lower the ISO, the better the quality of image you will get. Also, if under exposed, you can slow the shutter speed down which may look like 1/50 or 1/250 or 1/1000 etc. Slowing the shutter speed down helps, but, using handheld, you may not wish to go below 1/50 because the slower you make the shutter speed, it may result in a shaky looking image, it's about finding that right balance. When photographing people or subjects, also ensure the subjects are further away from the background, for example; don't photograph a person standing near with their backs closer to a wall, but it's good as a general test to get you to better understand, photograph a person in that scenario, then get them to stand further away from the wall closer to you and then photograph them, you will immediately notice the difference. I hope this helps, if you have any further questions I would like to hear back. I'm definitely going to cover this more in a video, plus on white balance.
Scotty, thanks so much for taking the time to respond and writing such an in depth but easy to follow answer. I will be experimenting over the next few days. I found shooting my flowers on my balcony easy for bokeh, but when it came to my students in a classroom, with the fluorescent light, it seemed impossible. Perhaps the focal length was what needed adjustment as you said. Probably I didn't need aperture priority mode in the classroom as well, but full manual. Will try again and give some feedback. Subscribed. Cheers.
Yes, there are many different factors, I mean, If I stood a fair distance back from the person I'm shooting and photographed the person wide angle, there would be less bokeh. You tend to find when photographing a group of people together, wide angle that is required wouldn't get those results, but for photographing an individual subject or person you would.
Hello! There are 2 things depending on that issue; first off, what focal length are you shooting at when using f/1.8? If you are zoomed out at the widest focal length, you're not going to get much bokeh blur due to it being wide angle, however, if you zoom in to a certain extent, you will notice more blur of the background. The second thing to note is that lens optics play into everything, some lenses have better optics than other lenses and with a camera like the G7X Mark ii, it is a fixed built in lens. I'm not sure what the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 is, is that in reference to a separate lens you would buy for a DSLR? If that's the case, then yes, you're bound to find better optics from a DSLR lens.
HI Scott, question: I've been trying to film indoors all day with some natural light and artificial light, everytime I upload the recordings to MovieMaker the video appears with large pixels. I've tried different settings and can't figure out what's going on. Do you have any ideas or insight on this? Thanks in advance!
Hi, Marcella, I apologise for the late response. With the video you recorded, is the camera settings set to record on 1920x1080 (1080p) resolution? The second point to make, is the video editing software; I use Adobe Premiere Pro CC so I'm not too clued up on Movie Maker, within video editing software usually there are settings to fix the resolution to suit the desired size you recorded at. My iMac has been in for repair and I collect it today, so I'll see about recording a video on that specific subject. Another thing to note is ISO, if you recorded using a higher ISO number, this results in a pixelated image. The ISO is the sensitivity to light, the lower the ISO the darker the image. With the G7X Mark ii, recording with an ISO set to 125 gives best image, but you then compensate by opening the aperture to f/1.8 and slow the shutter speed down to about 1/60 or 1/50 for video. If it still appears a bit underexposed, introducing more natural light may help from independent light source. As a last resort, if you don't have that as such, you only raise the ISO as a last resort, so try between 200 to 800 for indoors. I hope this helps answer your question, Marcella, I will take a look into Movie Maker when I get my computer set back up tonight. Scott
Hi Kassyo, I would say it's good for taking pictures, you would probably put it in the same bracket as a cropped sensor body DSLR with a kit lens as it's equivalent in that regard, because obviously, you're not going to get the quality as you would from a full frame body DSLR that costs a lot of money. An example would be comparing my Canon 70D cropped sensor to that of the Canon G7X Mark ii, it's not going to produce the standards you'd see from a full frame body camera like my 5D Mark iii for example, plus it can depend on the lens you put on the end of a camera. With the G7X Mark ii you're paying for something that is compact, takes good video footage for 1080p, has manual setting to adjust aperture, shutter speed and ISO which is something some digital camera's may not have, plus it capture good photographs. Put it this way, Kassyo, I shot 2 of my landscape photographs for my graded unit project for college and had to get the A3 prints to hand in for submission and the A3 prints looked fantastic, you know yourself that A3 is quite a reasonable size for print size. So that tells you it's a good camera. Hope that helps :)
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
0:44 you can use a vacuum to clean your super dusty lens in case you were not aware @scott
Just connect a hose to your vacuum and don't touch your actual lens with it, but get it close enough
to it while your camera is on a table top surface and it'll suck all the dust off of your lens and any
debris that on the lens. I do this all the time and the lens on my camera looks like I just purchased
my GX7 Mark II even though I've had it for a year. Much love bro!
Great video. Also, loved the accent 😍
How do you change the aperture when you RECORD? I can do it for taking pics however as soon as I hit record (VIDEO) the camera ZOOMS in and the AV setting is not the same anymore. Thank you!
It's really just a case that you have to change the settings before recording. If you do manual recording with different sequence of shots, you change the settings according to the lighting you're in, Vy, I hope that helps. You could leave it to auto settings, however, under video mode (the mode dial at the top with the video record icon.)
Thanks for enlightening me with regards to making use of this camera when choosing to operate it in the manual mode.
Please keep posting tips which will enable me to get more pleasure if I can eventually bring it all together.
Thank you, I'm planning to put out a lot more content, I really want to post more regularly, at the current time I'm currently in the process of designing the feel and look of my photography business site, but certainly plan to put out a lot more content, so will post more videos soon :)
Amazing explanation, showing how it works and real examples.
So l put my Camera on Manual mode. Now it’s telling me to set the Aperture. What should l put it on? I have cannon g7x mark ii. I mostly shoot indoors. Please give me numbers. On my screen l have F1/8 and F2.2. Tell me if l can change according to what’s good. ISO is on 1600. Will be waiting.
Hello, when you are indoors you will tend to find that it struggles to let in light. The higher the ISO means there is more grain noise added thus loss of quality. So to help on that front, what you can do is lower the ISO and if you have an independent light source you could use that to fill in the light. Having a wide open aperture like f/1.8 or f/2.2 would give you a shallower depth of field, but allows for more light in, it's useful in lowlight like indoors.
Recording video is slightly different from pictures, if recording on a tripod you could get away with a shutter speed of 1/50 or 1/60. Once you reduce the ISO using an independent light will help compensate.
What’s the best mode and camera settings for pictures of people ? Please reply
Hello, the trouble is, every lighting situation is different, what I mean is, whether you're outside or indoors, every room you go into has different lighting, some rooms are darker than others, some brighter than others, so it really all depends on the available light.
It also depends on the style of portrait you aim for, typically, it's nice to have a shallow depth of field, so putting your aperture to f/1.8 means that you'll get a really shallow depth of field to blur out the background. It would then be a case of manually fixing your shutter speed which also acts as your exposure, so you'll find if you've set your aperture to f/1.8 if the screen appears overexposed, you may increase the shutter speed. So it all depends. The slowest you'd have it holding handheld would probably be about 1/50 as you wouldn't want camera shake, so again, it depends on the available light.
Also bear in mind if the subjects such as people are moving, it's ideal to increase the shutter speed to above 1/250, if it appears a bit dark after setting it to an aperture of f/1.8 and setting the shutter speed above 1/250, try the last resort raising the ISO gradually to a desired exposure.
I hope that helps you out!
Scott CJ McKelvie thanks bro!
Scott CJ McKelvie what about it I just simply put it in portrait mode?
Hi just did a photo shoot yesterday and tried to put my apature at 1.8 but couldn't get the blur background
Hi Scott, just brought this camera so getting used to it. what typical settings would you start with photography a person with a fish. in going to use it for carp fishing. low looking for low light (evening) and sunny (day time) while keeping the background blurry? thanks
A lot depends on the scenario and the backdrop as well, I mean, one of the most difficult conditions to shoot in is when you have the full blown sun with no clouds as it creates sharp contrasting light and often whilst you may expose for a subject that might be in shade, the background could blow out.
However, with that being said, you would want to open the aperture to the widest point it can go and zoom in on the subject you are photographing. When you zoom in on the subject, the widest aperture on that camera is probably f/2.2 not f/1.8 you will find zoomed out you can get f/1.8 but due to the wide angle focal length zoomed out it may not create the same desired effect with the bokeh background.
So you set the aperture to the widest point (f/2.2) whilst zoomed in. Depending on available light and whether the camera at that stage is under or over exposed, check your ISO is set to 125 the lowest point and then set the shutter speed. If handheld, the slowest you would use it might be 50, if that appears still too under exposed, that is when you slightly raise the ISO to desired exposure.
I hope that helps to some degree :)
Great explanation, cheers
Thank you for the video and information sir.
So, what would be a standard aperture and shutter speed for landscape, and same question for portrait?
I'm using Auto all the time and not getting full use of the camera.
Hi Neil,
It really varies on the available light because you could be photographing a landscape at any given time of the day. Sunsets and sunrise obviously have lower light available to that of what you would see during mid-day, especially if the sun is out.
They key is understanding the relationship between the aperture, shutter speed and ISO; the ISO is your last resort, when it comes to landscape, you can get away with keeping it at 100 because if you have the camera set up on a tripod, you can compensate by slowing the shutter speed down to allow light into the camera, that is, of course, if you're photographing in lower light conditions.
Typically, I would set a narrow aperture first, then I would choose the shutter speed. The shutter speed also acts as your exposure; a faster shutter speed leads to a darker exposure and the slower shutter speed results in a brighter exposure. It's important to understand this relationship because you're always going to be faced with different lighting conditions wherever you are.
Portraits can vary, but typically, photographing with a shallow depth of field means using the wide open aperture, that's the fundamentals. There's nothing stopping you photographing someone with a narrower aperture, it just means the background will also be in focus, you typically only use that for a technique when you fill in with flash and that's taking things onto flash photography. I wouldn't concern over that too much though, but I hope that helps :)
Scott CJ McKelvie cheers buddy. I'm practising all the time. Flying to Bali in 4 weeks time so want to maximise the cameras potential.
Understandable, Neil, when it comes to photographing portraits of a family member or whoever you're with and you wish to capture them with the backdrop, that's when you would put the aperture narrow to something like f/8.0 or even f/11.0. However, the narrower the aperture, the darker the exposure, because of the narrower aperture lets in less light, you might then set your exposure (shutter speed) to 1/50.
If using handheld, I don't think you would get away with shooting any slower than that, you might, but any slower, you might start to see camera shake when capturing photographs. So when you use the camera handheld and say you have set your aperture to narrow to capture the background also in focus, you may then try and get the shutter speed as slow as you can. You'll know the threshold.
Saying that, again, that depends on your lighting environment, if it's really bright and sunny during mid-day, you may find setting the narrower aperture to f/11 may still appear slightly over exposed, so you increase the shutter speed in that sense. This really depends whether it's over exposed or under exposed.
The other alternative would be to slightly increase the ISO, it's not that bad. I would try limit the ISO use, however, with that camera, I wouldn't go above 800 unless absolutely necessary.
Another note about portraits, if the person has their back to the sun and you're shooting in the direction of the sun, it'll create a dark shade, so how do you capture that portrait?
Well, expose first for the background, your subject may then appear really dark, all you do then is turn the flash on. That's something to practice. Try and use the sun as your tool, if the sun points diagonally down at an angle it can be useful for lighting your subject. Also, you wouldn't want them facing directly into the sun, their eyes screw up because it's so bright.
These are all wee useful hints. I reckon once you get the practice you'll take some decent shots with it, I'm sure of that :)
Excellent advice. I hope you're getting paid for this!
Hi Scott, I’m new to photography. I was advised to get this camera to mainly do photos of the kids. The thing is the background only goes to f2.8. I want to go to f1.8. I’m at a loss as what to do. I’ve watched this. Idea of yours over and over but I’m no completely sure what buttons you are pressing. Sorry to be a dimwit.
Hi Tina, what you tend to find is that when you zoom in with your focal length, typically lenses that enable you to zoom in and given the Canon G7X Mark II enables you to zoom in using the ring, it stops down the aperture. In other words, if you zoom in the widest open aperture you'll get is probably f/2.8, when zoomed out to the widest focal length the widest open aperture you will get is f/1.8.
As for the buttons, well, setting to manual might be a bit advanced and into the deep end when just starting, it's good to practice starting off on 'P' mode which you'll find on the dial at the top of your camera, when in 'P' mode you'll see only one box bottom of the screen as 'P' mode only allows you to manually set ISO. It's useful for practicing with ISO.
A higher ISO number introduces more grain noise but more light into the camera, but a lower ISO number improves image quality with less grain noise, but darker. It's useful to play about with in that mode. Then moving onto TV mode which is essentially the mode that enables you to manually set your shutter speed and ISO; the faster the shutter speed you'll notice the darker the exposure, but slower, the brighter.
It's useful to practice with that. Indoors when photographing kids moving about you'd typically want a shutter speed fast enough to capture the kids without motion blur, which might be 1/200 or 1/250. Depends and as last resort, increasing ISO if too dark, it's all about experimenting.
AV mode is aperture priority mode, that simply means the camera will auto set the shutter speed for you, but you can manually set the ISO and aperture. Aperture being the depth of field. Shallow depth of field for wide open aperture, much like f/1.8 or f/1.2. It's useful for experimenting.
M (Manual Mode) is when you gain a bit more experience and you feel comfortable manually adjusting the settings.
@@scottcjmckelviephotography Thank you so much. I shall take everything on board and go slowly. Tina
Thank you Scotty for the aperture lesson on the Canon g7x mark 2. This is all new to me as I’ve never owned a DSR type of camera before . With my g7x mark 2 I always have it on auto mode to take photos or make videos. It’s good to learn about the manual mode so you can to get the very best out of your camera. Hopefully you will make more videos like this one on how to use your Canon g7x mark ii in manual mode. Greetings from Perth Australia.
Thank you, Craig, indeed, understanding the functionality of manual takes things to a whole new level and you get a hell of a lot more fun out of it. I'm certainly glad that it is of help to people such as yourself. As I mentioned in this video about the lighting conditions, you live in a typically very bright sunny country, so in your circumstance having the wide open aperture outside would mean compensating with a faster shutter speed. You are very lucky over there, so much great nature.
Please can you tell me how to change camera orientation it is showing other side of my face when i take picture, like mirror
Hi, sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner, within the first menu when you press on the menu button, there is an option under menu 1 called Reverse Display, you can turn that on or off. Hope that helps.
Scott CJ McKelvie i wanted to ask how to shoot video in horizontal mode?
When i click on reverse display it shows camera horizontally but when i shoot the video/picture still shows the image flipped.
Best setting for nature shots like open fields and open landscapes
thanks Scott. Just got mine yesterday and already have some questions. First off though, nice video and I like the photos you've added to demonstrate the ideas you're going over here. Today, I tried to get the bokeh effect, first with the "blurry background" feature on the SCN setting. Its okay but not quite as dramatic as I wanted. Then I tried switching to the AV setting for aperture priority. I could do it outside with flowers without much issue. But when i tried inside with fluorescent lighting, I could not get the faces of my subjects to stand out at all. Simply put, the depth of field was deep under fluorescent lighting and I played with focus and f-stop. Any ideas on this? Much appreciated....
There are two ways; the first would be to zoom into a subject which you should test out and you will find that when you zoom in to telephoto range (70mm above) the background around the subject you focus on blurs out. You tend to find that if you set the aperture to f/1.8 and you have the focal length set at 24mm or 28mm or whatever the widest focal distance you set at, when set to wide angle, there's going to be less bokeh.
I've never particularly used SCN mode, but each of those SCN modes are preset settings from manual anyway, in other words; portrait SCN mode without me looking at it, I understand it would use a wide open aperture of say f/1.8 on that camera. So my advice is, when in manual mode, set your aperture to f/1.8 and test taking pictures at a wide angle focal distance and then compare that to shooting at telephoto, say when you zoom into 70mm or above and you will notice the difference.
Yes, the aperture priority mode is useful for outdoors when light constantly changes all the time, such as the sun going behind clouds. What aperture priority mode allows you to set is the aperture value to either wide open or narrow for shallow or extended depth of field. What the camera does in aperture priority mode is it automatically sets your shutter speed/exposure for you to match whatever aperture you set. The wide open aperture lets more light into the camera, so if it's really bright outside and you use a aperture of f/1.8 in aperture priority, the camera will automatically set your shutter speed (exposure) to a fast shutter speed, say, over 1/1000 of a second, it does this to correct exposure.
That's why when using AV mode (aperture priority) you had no problem, because the camera automatically sets it for you.
It also depends on the SCN mode which you used, try setting the camera to M mode, set the aperture wide open to f/1.8 this will allow a lot more light into the camera and it will allow a really shallow depth of field, if it appears over exposed, ensure the ISO is set lower, the lower the ISO, the better the quality of image you will get. Also, if under exposed, you can slow the shutter speed down which may look like 1/50 or 1/250 or 1/1000 etc. Slowing the shutter speed down helps, but, using handheld, you may not wish to go below 1/50 because the slower you make the shutter speed, it may result in a shaky looking image, it's about finding that right balance.
When photographing people or subjects, also ensure the subjects are further away from the background, for example; don't photograph a person standing near with their backs closer to a wall, but it's good as a general test to get you to better understand, photograph a person in that scenario, then get them to stand further away from the wall closer to you and then photograph them, you will immediately notice the difference.
I hope this helps, if you have any further questions I would like to hear back. I'm definitely going to cover this more in a video, plus on white balance.
Scotty, thanks so much for taking the time to respond and writing such an in depth but easy to follow answer. I will be experimenting over the next few days. I found shooting my flowers on my balcony easy for bokeh, but when it came to my students in a classroom, with the fluorescent light, it seemed impossible. Perhaps the focal length was what needed adjustment as you said. Probably I didn't need aperture priority mode in the classroom as well, but full manual. Will try again and give some feedback. Subscribed. Cheers.
Yes, there are many different factors, I mean, If I stood a fair distance back from the person I'm shooting and photographed the person wide angle, there would be less bokeh. You tend to find when photographing a group of people together, wide angle that is required wouldn't get those results, but for photographing an individual subject or person you would.
Why g7x mark ii at 1.8 aperture doesnt blur that much as nikon 50mm 1.8 does
Hello! There are 2 things depending on that issue; first off, what focal length are you shooting at when using f/1.8? If you are zoomed out at the widest focal length, you're not going to get much bokeh blur due to it being wide angle, however, if you zoom in to a certain extent, you will notice more blur of the background. The second thing to note is that lens optics play into everything, some lenses have better optics than other lenses and with a camera like the G7X Mark ii, it is a fixed built in lens. I'm not sure what the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 is, is that in reference to a separate lens you would buy for a DSLR? If that's the case, then yes, you're bound to find better optics from a DSLR lens.
How do I get to f22 on this camera?
and if we record the street ? (not my face), a monument or i dont know ... aperture to 1.8 too ? (for vlog, travel video)
HI Scott, question: I've been trying to film indoors all day with some natural light and artificial light, everytime I upload the recordings to MovieMaker the video appears with large pixels. I've tried different settings and can't figure out what's going on. Do you have any ideas or insight on this? Thanks in advance!
Hi, Marcella, I apologise for the late response. With the video you recorded, is the camera settings set to record on 1920x1080 (1080p) resolution? The second point to make, is the video editing software; I use Adobe Premiere Pro CC so I'm not too clued up on Movie Maker, within video editing software usually there are settings to fix the resolution to suit the desired size you recorded at.
My iMac has been in for repair and I collect it today, so I'll see about recording a video on that specific subject. Another thing to note is ISO, if you recorded using a higher ISO number, this results in a pixelated image. The ISO is the sensitivity to light, the lower the ISO the darker the image.
With the G7X Mark ii, recording with an ISO set to 125 gives best image, but you then compensate by opening the aperture to f/1.8 and slow the shutter speed down to about 1/60 or 1/50 for video. If it still appears a bit underexposed, introducing more natural light may help from independent light source. As a last resort, if you don't have that as such, you only raise the ISO as a last resort, so try between 200 to 800 for indoors.
I hope this helps answer your question, Marcella, I will take a look into Movie Maker when I get my computer set back up tonight.
Scott
thanks for the video!
Is it good for pics? pls replyy
Hi Kassyo, I would say it's good for taking pictures, you would probably put it in the same bracket as a cropped sensor body DSLR with a kit lens as it's equivalent in that regard, because obviously, you're not going to get the quality as you would from a full frame body DSLR that costs a lot of money.
An example would be comparing my Canon 70D cropped sensor to that of the Canon G7X Mark ii, it's not going to produce the standards you'd see from a full frame body camera like my 5D Mark iii for example, plus it can depend on the lens you put on the end of a camera.
With the G7X Mark ii you're paying for something that is compact, takes good video footage for 1080p, has manual setting to adjust aperture, shutter speed and ISO which is something some digital camera's may not have, plus it capture good photographs. Put it this way, Kassyo, I shot 2 of my landscape photographs for my graded unit project for college and had to get the A3 prints to hand in for submission and the A3 prints looked fantastic, you know yourself that A3 is quite a reasonable size for print size. So that tells you it's a good camera.
Hope that helps :)
Why some of my photos say unidentified image?
If i got 1,000 sunscribers im goin to buy that camera..
I hate the way this is explained what did u do after going to the first menu !!!!
ik ga even schijten.