No flex through the Cabinet is in the International Fuel and Gas Code. You can have flex inside the cabinet, but wherever it’s passes through the cabinet has to be a hard pipe (nipple).
Wow your van looks so clean and well organized. The containers and dividers all well mounted. Everything has a place. You’ve inspired me to do better with my workshop
These are Knipex pliers, have you tried them? The size you set locks into place and they're much better than either regular pliers or adjustable wrenches.
I like. pliers wrench’s they work great if you know how the jaws have to be adjusted so when to clamp down it grabs the nut properly and fits right in you hand i’ve at least a hundred of his videos he always makes the jaws too small so the handle doesn’t close so it can fit his hands so he has to use two hand to turn the nut and he puts it on backwards so it going against the clamping force almost 90 % of the time he is a smart guy and knows his stuff but needs to focus on his technique
When you put dope on manifold for gas valve. You had a piece in the manifold. Your not to put dope on the first threads. Any dope on the end will result going in the pipe when tightened. The taper is what seals the threads.
100% of the threads should be doped. Though he could have wiped the inside, not doping threads inside the valve is only asking for a future leak once that dope dries out.
@NovvaOfficial done a lot of service seen lots of problems from doing that. That inside just shoves it inside .. usually someone else's problem then. Sealed great just a problem for someone else. .
@@NovvaOfficial that literally is counter to all the instructions from pipe and paste manufacturers. I have never seen anything smaller then 1 1/2" recommend doping female and male. Anything smaller is male only and first 1 to 2 threads dry. While lubing them may make tightening easier they don't seal on a tapered thread unless you go excessive on tightening on gpt fittings
Slip joint make me cringe, while today's tolerances make box wrenches unusable a good adjustable crescent is way better at getting good torque. Also a pipe wrench with smooth jaws makes those awkward gas valves a cinch to hold. I would have checked inlet pressure with everything off and sediment trap. High pressure from a regulator creeping or dirty seat in valve can cause leaking of valve. Also galvanized pipe or copper used in Nat can be issue. Looking in trap can show if line is shedding. Unit just didn't look old enough for normal seat wear to be cause
A good video which I enjoyed. Thanks. Flex line going into the furnace is a hazard. Not even a rubber grommet or a gasket on the hole it passes through. You did a good job. Again, thanks.
Better check incoming pressure. Had 6 valves in different parts of the city blow . Had to install external pressure regulators to bring incoming pressure to tolerance of the valve.
I had this happen to me on a call. Goodman gas furnace continued to fire when call ended. Fan shut off and opened high limit. Thank God the control was configured to bring fan on when high limit opened up. I checked incoming pressure and it pegged out my manometer. The regulator on gas meter was hung. The water heater had soot and scorch marks up the side too. Homeowner told me she was wondering why the stove couldn't be turned to low anymore. She was lucky to be talking to me.
Great work, i love the professionalism of checking the manifold pressure. Not to nit pick, but I would've checked line pressure as well. I learned the hard way, check it or prepare for a call back.
i use a water filled manometer, in fact i prefer it. the funny thing is the gas service techs hate that i use it, they want me to use a $200.00 manometer like they use.@@w.knudsen5570
I hope you saw that glob of dope in the pipe when you edit the video if you didn’t you should go back and remove it because if it comes loose and flows down the pipe it could plug up the burner. I was in the hvac for 20 years and ran too different companies service department so I know what I am talking about but nice job other than missing that always check the pipe opening 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
If u know what ur taking about, then you'd know there's a filter screen inside the gas valve. To prevent anything going downstream to the burners. If anything it'd block the screen and you'd have low burners or firing off doing weird shit.
Great video! I was always taught to check in and out pressure because to high in pressure can cause premature valve failure. I went to a house that a guy said I was there for his annual valve change out and was laughing! I was like wow we going to figure that out because they should last way longer! High in pressure fixed no more annual gas’s valve lol
The code is worried about the flex rubbing on frame with fan or such vibrating and wearing a hole, or just take nfta 54 wording to a extreme. While if its a local code violation you can bring it up you can protect it like you would electric wire from abrasion or on a older system just observe for damage on a painted flex like that. And before anyone blows up on how code protects us be aware of how much code allows that is sub par if not outright dangerous in some cases.
I never understand why people dont just use Cresent wrenches on fittings? Like the gas line fittings, Their shouldnt even be any other option, except the actual right size wrench. But channel locks, no, it just chews up the fittings and makes it harder to get the correct wrenches to fit on them, watching you struggle with the channel locks installing that fitting just backs up my comment, as being faster and better in general
Cause aint no service guy gonna carry around a full wrench set when you can carry 1 that covers just about every size you'll need.. if you're a seasoned tech you'll know, it's all about working smarter not harder. No service dude wants to lug around a 60lb tool bag.
@AllTattedUp13 Mines a 37 pound backpack. I carry combo wrenches up to 3/4", an 8" adjustable and channel locks. Lol. Maybe that's why it's 37 pounds. I also do more refrigeration than heat, except CT winters, than it's about 50/50.
Funny how different states allow different saftey codes. ( single wall flue in conditioned space or in the attic/crawl space, flex line into the cabinet, galvinized gas pipe with natral gas, copper with natral gas. But they make sure that unit turns off if that damn drain overflow.
nice flame on/unexpected flame. first thing to do is check incoming gas pressure! gas suppliers gear can fail and cause bad things. but maybe failed gas valve( so check pressure on both sides) yeehaw! 🤠🤯
nicejob, cant believe you didnt notice the restriction on the valve side of manifold arm.(old sealant or rector seal... once that flakes off you willlll be be back cleaning the valve screen
its mandatory along fault lines there georgia... where the serious safety hazard is the earthquake snapping of an unyielding rigid pipe, whats the safety hazard of flex in that location?
I was always taught to look for any error codes through the window on the door before shutting off the furnace or pulling a door off… another thing that makes taking the plug off the gas valve a lot easier is to use your service valve tool. The tip is the same size as the plug.
love the song in the back ground in the intro, i am 60 and grew up with hair bands. love your videos there is always something to learn. Whitesnake - Slow an' Easy
I was born in 1951. During my lifetime gas furnaces for a home have become a lot more complicated, but at the same time they are a lot more efficient. In the home that I grew up in as a child, the gas furnace in this home did not require electricity, it had no fans. It was a simple natural circulation furnace where air went in the bottom vents and warm air came out the top vents. This furnace lasted around 40 years before it was finally replaced.
This makes me love my 51-year-old Miller propane furnace no way in hell would I ever get one of these 100% junk! I mean everyone in my family except for my mom everyone in the family has had replaced their furnace three or four times since I've lived in my house My furnace is original Of course some parts aren't not but that's okay! 16 years ago I replaced the fan limit switch and I oil my fan every 6 months keep it clean not one day not one night not one second has my furnace ever let me down!
Why don’t you have a nice size mechanics vise in your truck? When my dad was doing a lot of his work I the field, he had one bolted to the truck floor and used it all the time.
Camera control is difficult when you're working and not looking through the viewer. You might want to consider two camera sources, head mount that records where you're looking and maybe a chest mount for straight ahead, so you can edit out the off scene parts of the video later. You also need a little bit more narration, start with the make and model of the furnace and explain what you're doing as you work. Don't assume everybody watching your videos is a HVAC tech.
I was wondering about the flex line and vibration going through a hole in metal cabinet. That furnace looks kind of new to have a bad gas valve. One suggestion you need more like a body camera so we see more of what you are doing. Second explain when a gas valve leaks sensors turn off the gas and furnace. Also explain how the furnace works and what comes on first and the timing of how and what happens with the ignition and flame sensor. This way people have a little understand if their furnace fails.
We Replaced our 20+ Gas Furnace and AC two (2) years ago because of a crack in the Flue Pipe. I’m Not taking Any Chances with Carbon Monoxide Poisoning🤔👍🙏
Well you don’t run into one of these all that often ! That flex line is a topic of concern in many places places with a high probability for earthquakes it’s required most others it’s not approved. 3.5 is a good starting place but when optimized might even be a tad lower. Keep up the good work!
Flex line is OK by most building codes, and in fact is generally much safer even in areas without earthquakes. Unions are much more likely to leak due to vibration and movement than flex line. What's not allowed by any building code is running the flex line through the cabinet. The sharp edges and vibration could eventually rub through it. There should be a hard pipe going through the cabinet, a tee with a drip leg, and the flex line should connect to the top of the tee. I am even wondering if a drip leg would have prevented the valve failure here.
When setting the level of valve when tightening if you had marked the pipe for top of valve center with a dot of paint marker you would have it dead on same as original
I have two Rheem 90. nat gas furnaces. in my home and I have those same White Rogers. gas valves and mine have two green ground wires that go to the double spade connector at the bottom of the valve . That electrical spade connector comes with new white rogers valves of that style as I had to replace one and I was surprised the valve came with it when new and I did not have to re use. the old connector . I was waiting for him to plug in the wires but I didn't see them in the video. Should all gas valves be grounded or is there another reason that they are using the gas valve as a ground in my Rheem furnaces ? No big deal just curious
eww, yellow noodle flex pipe ran through cabinet side. "danger will robinson", that is a big no-no everywhere. hard pipe to outside then noodle pipe where it wont rub anything from vibration. I know it's not your install, but that's an immediate red-flag of the installation quality and competence of the installers(laziness perhaps?)
Hmmm, was that blue teflon tape that's used on water lines I saw at the inlet? That's def a no no. If it gets into the gas valve it'll cause issues, kinda like what you experienced. 😉
Its all tefelon (PTFE) tape/dope. White is low density for small fittings (3/8 and under) while yellow is double density. Monster and MegaLock for example are both blue and both used widely in industrial applications and are double density and then some. Keep it on the threads and not inside the pipe and you won't have issues.
Not every furnace is always going to be set at 3.5. You really needed to do a combustion analysis to see Where the burn levels are. That Would then determine where your settings would be for the gas valve.
You are supposed to clock the gas meter, and then set it for the proper input based on what BTUs your gas is rated at. And combustion analysis is part of that process.
That's what happens when hacks are the installers. They the ones who should be clocking the valve and setting it. But eh, more work for us service dudes I guess.
Also orfice size plays a role. On these 14k btu per burner Rheems they need to be fired at about 3.7inwc to clock correctly. They are underfired at 3.5in using a 1050btu content for NG
The Knipex Plier Wrenches are as good as it gets, they open up wider than any adjustable out there. Replaces any set and carrying multiple. Only issue sometimes is when working in a tight spot
could have installed that flex adapter in the truck, while changing the gas valve. my dad was a pipe fitter, so he showed me a lot of time saving places
i had a co2 warning go off and called the gas company to check it out. they did get a minor reading on there device when they first walked in the house. but the guy couldn't figure out where it was coming from as he tested every gas appliance. He was stumped so he went back to the office and asked some senior guys how this could be. they mention some kind of back draft?back pressure in the house occurring randomly. Have you ever heard or experience this??
Having a new gas valve installed and checking the WC would never happen around here. I got a new house furnace, new garage furnace and a new tank-less water heater. I never saw the tech check the WC on all three.
I like watching your videos. You do some jobs in some tough places. Oh man, you have to get some adjustable wrenches. Plus, your chewing up the surfaces on the nuts. There was a large piece of sealer inside the pipe. That is another problem waiting to happen. That flex pipe should be replaced with black iron inside that cabinet. That can't be code. I know that would never pass in my area.
instead of using service wrench for gas pressure plugs, try just the bit with wrench(adjustable or not), but often those are even too long to fit on some of today/yesterdays junk designs. on various things I\'ve had to cut off allen wrenches to work, and I mean already short allen wrenches, cut to very short to clear things, where the factory engineering did a bozo job.
Hey curt you ever had any problems while replacing gas valve on a bryant unit me and my apprentice had to stand on one pipe wrench and i had to stand on the other one trying to remove the gas valve from burner assembly made us look like a bunch of weines in front of the customer lol 😂
Looks like you need to tape a nickel to those channel locks and pitch them so you can say you through something away. Sometimes expensive channel locks are just that expensive.
To all who say they dont like plier wrenches i say nonsense thats because every video i watch where someone is using them they never have them ajusted right. I have been doing hvac work for over 35 year's i have worked with techs that used adjustable wrench and round off nuts because they dont adjust them right. I say leave it up to the individual preference of the person working on the equipment
I would address the gas flex !!, add a short length of black iron pipe, and reconnect with the appropriate fittings!, that gas flex needs to be outside of the cabinet knock out!!
I didn't see you check the tempature rise to see if you might need to back down the gas pressure... tempature rise is more important than setting gas pressure at the standard 3.5 starting point
Why would you not check inlet pressure as there is a tap for that as well. As a gas guy if you have a safety failure like that I would be required to check inlet pressure. The gas company regulators fail pretty often and you don't know until you check pressure and not all regulators in the USA have been updated to over pressure protection yet. Maybe you don't think that's your problem, maybe it's not but you seem like you care, so I would be checking inlet pressure.
where I'm located you cant have a flex line penetrating the cabinet , has to be hard piped. Another awesome video, thanks
Thanks
same here.
Yep same here also
Same in TX
No flex through the Cabinet is in the International Fuel and Gas Code. You can have flex inside the cabinet, but wherever it’s passes through the cabinet has to be a hard pipe (nipple).
Wow your van looks so clean and well organized. The containers and dividers all well mounted. Everything has a place. You’ve inspired me to do better with my workshop
Nice work 😊me personally I don’t care for pliers wrenches 🔧 I prefer adjustable just my opinion 😊
These are Knipex pliers, have you tried them? The size you set locks into place and they're much better than either regular pliers or adjustable wrenches.
Don’t use rector seal 5 on anything plastic , deteriorates quickly
I like. pliers wrench’s they work great if you know how the jaws have to be adjusted so when to clamp down it grabs the nut properly and fits right in you hand i’ve at least a hundred of his videos he always makes the jaws too small so the handle doesn’t close so it can fit his hands so he has to use two hand to turn the nut and he puts it on backwards so it going against the clamping force almost 90 % of the time he is a smart guy and knows his stuff but needs to focus on his technique
Knipex are amazing! Once you grab a pair you’ll never want anything else lol
I have scolded apprentices for doing exactly that
When you put dope on manifold for gas valve. You had a piece in the manifold. Your not to put dope on the first threads. Any dope on the end will result going in the pipe when tightened. The taper is what seals the threads.
Yes, the pipe dope should have been wiped off from inside the gas pipe. This could cause another gas valve problem!
100% of the threads should be doped. Though he could have wiped the inside, not doping threads inside the valve is only asking for a future leak once that dope dries out.
@NovvaOfficial done a lot of service seen lots of problems from doing that. That inside just shoves it inside .. usually someone else's problem then. Sealed great just a problem for someone else.
.
@@NovvaOfficial that literally is counter to all the instructions from pipe and paste manufacturers. I have never seen anything smaller then 1 1/2" recommend doping female and male. Anything smaller is male only and first 1 to 2 threads dry. While lubing them may make tightening easier they don't seal on a tapered thread unless you go excessive on tightening on gpt fittings
Slip joint make me cringe, while today's tolerances make box wrenches unusable a good adjustable crescent is way better at getting good torque. Also a pipe wrench with smooth jaws makes those awkward gas valves a cinch to hold. I would have checked inlet pressure with everything off and sediment trap. High pressure from a regulator creeping or dirty seat in valve can cause leaking of valve. Also galvanized pipe or copper used in Nat can be issue. Looking in trap can show if line is shedding. Unit just didn't look old enough for normal seat wear to be cause
Man that struggle with the Knipx pliers was hard to watch, get a cresent wrench.
@moby, Yeah , it was too much for me also , Crescent is the way to go .
@@rmoby yeah or better yet the proper sized open end wrench.
I think you left a glob of Rector Seal on the inside of the burner manifold pipe. Hope it doesn’t travel. At least it won’t travel towards the valve.
A good video which I enjoyed. Thanks.
Flex line going into the furnace is a hazard. Not even a rubber grommet or a gasket on the hole it passes through.
You did a good job. Again, thanks.
Better check incoming pressure. Had 6 valves in different parts of the city blow . Had to install external pressure regulators to bring incoming pressure to tolerance of the valve.
I had this happen to me on a call. Goodman gas furnace continued to fire when call ended. Fan shut off and opened high limit. Thank God the control was configured to bring fan on when high limit opened up. I checked incoming pressure and it pegged out my manometer. The regulator on gas meter was hung. The water heater had soot and scorch marks up the side too. Homeowner told me she was wondering why the stove couldn't be turned to low anymore. She was lucky to be talking to me.
Happens all the time!
You can call the gas utility and have them adjust the pressure regulator by the gas meter!
Very fine video. Great content, video quality and excellent audio. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Could put a little more effort into where the camera is pointing but all in all a very good video. Thank you
Great work, i love the professionalism of checking the manifold pressure. Not to nit pick, but I would've checked line pressure as well. I learned the hard way, check it or prepare for a call back.
The advantage of using a water filled manometer is that it doesn't require calibration certification.
i use a water filled manometer, in fact i prefer it. the funny thing is the gas service techs hate that i use it, they want me to use a $200.00 manometer like they use.@@w.knudsen5570
but just overlook the hackery of the flex line and the fact he didnt hard plumb it botheres the fuck out if me but yall worried about pressure
I hope you saw that glob of dope in the pipe when you edit the video if you didn’t you should go back and remove it because if it comes loose and flows down the pipe it could plug up the burner. I was in the hvac for 20 years and ran too different companies service department so I know what I am talking about but nice job other than missing that always check the pipe opening 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
If u know what ur taking about, then you'd know there's a filter screen inside the gas valve. To prevent anything going downstream to the burners. If anything it'd block the screen and you'd have low burners or firing off doing weird shit.
Also putting all that stuff on the finished floor made me say eek.
@@AllTattedUp13lmao good point. These people always know everything about everything 😂😂
Two, not too lolol
Great video! I was always taught to check in and out pressure because to high in pressure can cause premature valve failure. I went to a house that a guy said I was there for his annual valve change out and was laughing! I was like wow we going to figure that out because they should last way longer! High in pressure fixed no more annual gas’s valve lol
that would require the gas pressure to be over a half pound to cause damage to a valve.Thats a LOT
I agree #5 works great. I used it for years. in my state you cannot have flex line inside the furnace.
Calif. does not allow flex inside either.
It’s against code to in the state of ga too, should be addressed.
The code is worried about the flex rubbing on frame with fan or such vibrating and wearing a hole, or just take nfta 54 wording to a extreme. While if its a local code violation you can bring it up you can protect it like you would electric wire from abrasion or on a older system just observe for damage on a painted flex like that. And before anyone blows up on how code protects us be aware of how much code allows that is sub par if not outright dangerous in some cases.
In New York has to be hard pipe. All of it except stove and dryer.
cuz ur not on a fault line
I never understand why people dont just use Cresent wrenches on fittings? Like the gas line fittings, Their shouldnt even be any other option, except the actual right size wrench. But channel locks, no, it just chews up the fittings and makes it harder to get the correct wrenches to fit on them, watching you struggle with the channel locks installing that fitting just backs up my comment, as being faster and better in general
Cause aint no service guy gonna carry around a full wrench set when you can carry 1 that covers just about every size you'll need.. if you're a seasoned tech you'll know, it's all about working smarter not harder. No service dude wants to lug around a 60lb tool bag.
Not channel locks. Parallel jaw slip joint.
@AllTattedUp13 Mines a 37 pound backpack. I carry combo wrenches up to 3/4", an 8" adjustable and channel locks. Lol. Maybe that's why it's 37 pounds. I also do more refrigeration than heat, except CT winters, than it's about 50/50.
love your page, dude!
Great video Curtis 🎉 I’d rather have a crescent wrench over those knipex lol I only use them in my commercial bag
He needs to learn how to use them
Funny how different states allow different saftey codes. ( single wall flue in conditioned space or in the attic/crawl space, flex line into the cabinet, galvinized gas pipe with natral gas, copper with natral gas. But they make sure that unit turns off if that damn drain overflow.
Mr. Curtis, keeping the Georgia folks nice and warm. 😎
nice flame on/unexpected flame. first thing to do is check incoming gas pressure! gas suppliers gear can fail and cause bad things. but maybe failed gas valve( so check pressure on both sides)
yeehaw! 🤠🤯
Then you can't charge 300% mark up for a part. Not saying he does that, but it happens.
Great work curtis 👍
Thanks 👍
You are killing me with the wrenching.
Yeah, that and he didn't turn the power off while he was working on it.
nicejob, cant believe you didnt notice the restriction on the valve side of manifold arm.(old sealant or rector seal... once that flakes off you willlll be be back cleaning the valve screen
Flexible gas connector is not allowed in my area of Georgia. A serious safety hazard.
Same in NC
I live in earthquake land, so it's required, but not allowed inside the furnace.
its mandatory along fault lines there georgia... where the serious safety hazard is the earthquake snapping of an unyielding rigid pipe, whats the safety hazard of flex in that location?
the cabinet side can vibrate a hole in flex pipe , in my area must have a rubber gromet in there.@@mos8541
They're allowed here in GA, just can't penetrate cabinet.
I was always taught to look for any error codes through the window on the door before shutting off the furnace or pulling a door off… another thing that makes taking the plug off the gas valve a lot easier is to use your service valve tool. The tip is the same size as the plug.
Yeah your definitely drunk
Seen a gas seep through gas valve before where you smell gas but none of fittings are leaking but if you bubble test the orfices you’ll find the leak
Nice work as usual Curtis.
love the song in the back ground in the intro, i am 60 and grew up with hair bands.
love your videos there is always something to learn.
Whitesnake - Slow an' Easy
Rock on!
whitesnake - tawny kitaen
I was born in 1951. During my lifetime gas furnaces for a home have become a lot more complicated, but at the same time they are a lot more efficient. In the home that I grew up in as a child, the gas furnace in this home did not require electricity, it had no fans. It was a simple natural circulation furnace where air went in the bottom vents and warm air came out the top vents. This furnace lasted around 40 years before it was finally replaced.
I saw one of those gravity furnaces here in Texas about 30 years ago. It discharged the heat near the front door of the house!
What brand of light are you using?? 6:28
crazy to have this fail on what looks to be an almost brand new unit
Cause like every manufacturer nowdays, it's all about the quantity they put out, not the quality. Aka, made over seas
This makes me love my 51-year-old Miller propane furnace no way in hell would I ever get one of these 100% junk! I mean everyone in my family except for my mom everyone in the family has had replaced their furnace three or four times since I've lived in my house My furnace is original Of course some parts aren't not but that's okay! 16 years ago I replaced the fan limit switch and I oil my fan every 6 months keep it clean not one day not one night not one second has my furnace ever let me down!
I would think you might be better served with a couple good adjustable wrenches than those pliers , this is coming from a retired plumber .
A good video Curtis, that is a nice clear quality camera you have 👍 Au
Thanks 👍
Are you doing a complete system leak test starting at the propane cylinder or tank after a break in the system of propane
Why don’t you have a nice size mechanics vise in your truck? When my dad was doing a lot of his work I the field, he had one bolted to the truck floor and used it all the time.
I was just thinking the same thing a few minutes ago; never saw this video six months ago!
I'm with ya brother on taking off the wrong plug.. did it 2x in one day.... have the oh shit feeling with it.. lol
We’re did u get your door switch tool I need one of those
Amazon FPRO100
Thanks got to get one
How old is that furnace? It looks so clean and fairly new!
Camera control is difficult when you're working and not looking through the viewer. You might want to consider two camera sources, head mount that records where you're looking and maybe a chest mount for straight ahead, so you can edit out the off scene parts of the video later. You also need a little bit more narration, start with the make and model of the furnace and explain what you're doing as you work. Don't assume everybody watching your videos is a HVAC tech.
I was wondering about the flex line and vibration going through a hole in metal cabinet. That furnace looks kind of new to have a bad gas valve. One suggestion you need more like a body camera so we see more of what you are doing. Second explain when a gas valve leaks sensors turn off the gas and furnace. Also explain how the furnace works and what comes on first and the timing of how and what happens with the ignition and flame sensor. This way people have a little understand if their furnace fails.
We Replaced our 20+ Gas Furnace and AC two (2) years ago because of a crack in the Flue Pipe. I’m Not taking Any Chances with Carbon Monoxide Poisoning🤔👍🙏
Did you mean a crack in the heat exchanger?
Love White snake. the good old day's.
11:23 = T+2 is my go to.
Well you don’t run into one of these all that often ! That flex line is a topic of concern in many places places with a high probability for earthquakes it’s required most others it’s not approved. 3.5 is a good starting place but when optimized might even be a tad lower. Keep up the good work!
Flex line is OK by most building codes, and in fact is generally much safer even in areas without earthquakes. Unions are much more likely to leak due to vibration and movement than flex line. What's not allowed by any building code is running the flex line through the cabinet. The sharp edges and vibration could eventually rub through it. There should be a hard pipe going through the cabinet, a tee with a drip leg, and the flex line should connect to the top of the tee. I am even wondering if a drip leg would have prevented the valve failure here.
flex lies are for GC who do shit work
Is gas flex line allowed to go in the unit like that? Where I'm from, we get canned if we dont hard pipe it out of the unit. flex outside is ok
When setting the level of valve when tightening if you had marked the pipe for top of valve center with a dot of paint marker you would have it dead on same as original
I have two Rheem 90. nat gas furnaces. in my home and I have those same White Rogers. gas valves and mine have two green ground wires that go to the double spade connector at the bottom of the valve . That electrical spade connector comes with new white rogers valves of that style as I had to replace one and I was surprised the valve came with it when new and I did not have to re use. the old connector . I was waiting for him to plug in the wires but I didn't see them in the video. Should all gas valves be grounded or is there another reason that they are using the gas valve as a ground in my Rheem furnaces ? No big deal just curious
eww, yellow noodle flex pipe ran through cabinet side. "danger will robinson", that is a big no-no everywhere. hard pipe to outside then noodle pipe where it wont rub anything from vibration.
I know it's not your install, but that's an immediate red-flag of the installation quality and competence of the installers(laziness perhaps?)
@hvacguy look into pipe vise they make portable vice’s, definitely come in handy for gas valves.
Did they small gas with that leaky gas valve?
Thanks sir.
Most welcome
Curtis
What inspection light is that ?
Was that teflon on those joints and on the fitting or just a sloppy dope job? Either one easily could've screwed up the valve internals.
Hmmm, was that blue teflon tape that's used on water lines I saw at the inlet? That's def a no no. If it gets into the gas valve it'll cause issues, kinda like what you experienced. 😉
Its all tefelon (PTFE) tape/dope. White is low density for small fittings (3/8 and under) while yellow is double density. Monster and MegaLock for example are both blue and both used widely in industrial applications and are double density and then some. Keep it on the threads and not inside the pipe and you won't have issues.
I thought it wasn't allowed by code to run a flexible gas line into the unit? I have always seen/done hard pipe once it goes inside.
great work
Thanks!
Not every furnace is always going to be set at 3.5. You really needed to do a combustion analysis to see Where the burn levels are. That Would then determine where your settings would be for the gas valve.
You are supposed to clock the gas meter, and then set it for the proper input based on what BTUs your gas is rated at. And combustion analysis is part of that process.
You were absolutely correct, but I didn’t think he was going to go that far.
That's what happens when hacks are the installers. They the ones who should be clocking the valve and setting it. But eh, more work for us service dudes I guess.
Also orfice size plays a role. On these 14k btu per burner Rheems they need to be fired at about 3.7inwc to clock correctly. They are underfired at 3.5in using a 1050btu content for NG
mine goes to 11
What type of wrench are those, the ones ur using to remove the gas value
A bench vise is needed here. You have the space for it
No goop on the last 2 threads
Santa needs to bring you a nice set of wrenches
The Knipex Plier Wrenches are as good as it gets, they open up wider than any adjustable out there. Replaces any set and carrying multiple. Only issue sometimes is when working in a tight spot
you should do a temp rise also
Hello Curtis. I was just curious about that stick in your van.
Very awkward. Wrenches, you’re using hard to beat the old blue handle channel locks.
could have installed that flex adapter in the truck, while changing the gas valve.
my dad was a pipe fitter, so he showed me a lot of time saving places
It wasn’t the wrenches, it was the long lady.
first time I seen flex straight into the cabinet
Where do you get all your parts from?
i had a co2 warning go off and called the gas company to check it out. they did get a minor reading on there device when they first walked in the house. but the guy couldn't figure out where it was coming from as he tested every gas appliance. He was stumped so he went back to the office and asked some senior guys how this could be. they mention some kind of back draft?back pressure in the house occurring randomly. Have you ever heard or experience this??
Yes. It happens with heaters installed in basements usually!
Nice job ... Thx
I would have checked volts to the valve to make the the board wasnt broke and sending volts.
I thought all Gas Connections were ccw or reverse threaded . Noticed when installing the gas line it tightened cw .
when are you going to test for the CO2 ? ? I heard if you are not testing you are guessing. If you are doing it off camera pls let us know
I was taught that a trap in the gas line has to hit the back side of the tee and trash will settle and gas would go upwards to unit
The trap seen in this video is in its correct place!
Anytime the fan turns on with no heat, its the pcb sensing a failure
Having a new gas valve installed and checking the WC would never happen around here. I got a new house furnace, new garage furnace and a new tank-less water heater. I never saw the tech check the WC on all three.
You know you got your flashlight stuck on back of inducer motor with a big magnet. Have you ever looked into, if that may affect that motor
Please get some adjustable wrenches to open & tighten these pipes. It’s much easier & faster.
Why did the old gas valve fail tho? I need to know why this happened otherwise I will assume this same issue will occur again unless it is rectified.
You don’t really have to remove the gas valve from the furnace to replace it on a Rheem sometimes
Rheem is trash
waaayy wayy WAIT!!.... holy crap! .... YOU WEARING GLOVES!?... all that nagging finally paid off, .. smFh
I like watching your videos. You do some jobs in some tough places. Oh man, you have to get some adjustable wrenches. Plus, your chewing up the surfaces on the nuts. There was a large piece of sealer inside the pipe. That is another problem waiting to happen. That flex pipe should be replaced with black iron inside that cabinet. That can't be code. I know that would never pass in my area.
I would have checked to see if the gas valve wasn't getting aberrant voltage from somewhere else.
instead of using service wrench for gas pressure plugs, try just the bit with wrench(adjustable or not), but often those are even too long to fit on some of today/yesterdays junk designs.
on various things I\'ve had to cut off allen wrenches to work, and I mean already short allen wrenches, cut to very short to clear things, where the factory engineering did a bozo job.
You should really invest in a Pipe Vise..the red ones that have a spring loaded jaw
Would have liked to have seen a teardown of the gas valve to see if the cause of failure could be observed.
If a valve replacement is in-warranty, you're not allowed to dismantle it!
Hey curt you ever had any problems while replacing gas valve on a bryant unit me and my apprentice had to stand on one pipe wrench and i had to stand on the other one trying to remove the gas valve from burner assembly made us look like a bunch of weines in front of the customer lol 😂
i’ve had to heat the valve up with a torch.
Haven’t seen one that bad
Get yourself a 24" pipe wrench 😂 I've used 18" on some them valves. Whoever puts them on like that from the factory must have arms like a gorilla 😂😂
Looks like you need to tape a nickel to those channel locks and pitch them so you can say you through something away. Sometimes expensive channel locks are just that expensive.
To all who say they dont like plier wrenches i say nonsense thats because every video i watch where someone is using them they never have them ajusted right. I have been doing hvac work for over 35 year's i have worked with techs that used adjustable wrench and round off nuts because they dont adjust them right. I say leave it up to the individual preference of the person working on the equipment
Why did you leave that stuff in the pipe?
It looks like you got pipe dope in the end of the pipe and left it when you were at your truck.
you should have cleaned out the pipe dope inside the manifold.
So you just left the flex hose passing through the furnace without correcting it?
It costs an additional 50 cents or a dollar! eats their profits!
Those yellow channel locks. What manufacturer channel locks are those??? I only have cheap pairs so could use an upgrade.
Yellow handles is usually klein
Milwaukee has groove lock pliers for sale at HD, I’ve bought 3 pairs past month. I’ve used Douglas brand for 41 years, these Mills are pretty good.
the oldest that used yellow handles would be "douglas" brand, now klein has yellow handles(maybe made by douglas for them?)
You hooked up a flexible gas line inside a furnace cabinet? Really?
Ive had more bleed through gas valves in the last several years than anytime in my 20+yr career. Seems more the white rodgers than the Honeywells
I would address the gas flex !!, add a short length of black iron pipe, and reconnect with the appropriate fittings!, that gas flex needs to be outside of the cabinet knock out!!
I didn't see you check the tempature rise to see if you might need to back down the gas pressure... tempature rise is more important than setting gas pressure at the standard 3.5 starting point
This is why I don’t use those flat jaw pliers I have 4 different sizes they always seem awkward in a lot of spots
Good info but I think you left a piece of goop /pipe dope inside the pipe.
Why would you not check inlet pressure as there is a tap for that as well. As a gas guy if you have a safety failure like that I would be required to check inlet pressure. The gas company regulators fail pretty often and you don't know until you check pressure and not all regulators in the USA have been updated to over pressure protection yet. Maybe you don't think that's your problem, maybe it's not but you seem like you care, so I would be checking inlet pressure.
And Ridgid pipe wrenchs are the best quality