Got on highway my 2005 town and country 3.8 with 19k miles made a noise then steering tightened up and temperature hand rose up belt had snapped thanks for your knowledge
401k miles on my 3.3 chrysler vovager here in Cali....this thing has the orig. engine and trans. Your vids are inspiring me to fix a few things before i have some real probs!
Well done - great step-by step description of what it takes to get the job done. Also very helpful to have the "tools you need" introduction at the beginning.
Although I am an experienced home mechanic with some Military experience as well I find your video informative, straight forward and helpful. I maintain an 07 Town and Country for a friend and found your video to be a great pre work informational. Superb work 👍👏👏
Thank you for your service! I appreciate the kind words, I try and keep my repair vids easy to follow and straight to the point. Thank you for you for watching and commenting as well.
Thanks for this video. Curious if you have experience in fixing the rear hatch. Mine will not automatically raise or lower using the remote or inside front panel switch. I can hear the motor and it unlocks so I can raise it manually and locks when I close it but no automatic operation. I've done a side door wiring repair but am lost when it comes to how the rear hatch operates. Sorry to post publicly but couldn't see how to PM you. Thanks for any feedback
This has been very informative. I am a truck driver and my girlfriend has a 2003 t&c. Her tensioner pulley is completely screwed and the only person she knows that can fix I keeps flaking out so I told her when I roll back through I'll fix it for her and this has been a lot of help. I'll give you an update on how I did and if I scored any brownie points when I get it done lol. Awesome video man
Thanks so much for making this video. Tomorrow morning we are traveling out to West Virginia from here in York Pennsylvania to help a friend with her 2004 Chrysler Town and Country and it is great to know what tools I will need and also the info on it being a good idea to change the idler and tensioner along with the belt.
Nice video. I like the fact that you let us know what size tools to use. Saves me from going back to the box every time! I'm doing this job, plus replacing my noisy alternator. Thanks!
Excellent video! I liked the way you described the tools needed and the routing of the belts. The torque for the belt tensioner pulley bolt is 20 foot pounds and the belt idler sprocket bolt is 24 foot pounds. Thanks for sharing
Have to do this soon; yours is the best vid. Two observations: First, while the belt is off, i will rotate the alternator and other devices I can spin with my fingers to check for undue resistance or bearing roughness, and if i can get a drop or two of oil on the exposed lip of ahy of the shaft seals, so much the better. Second, as an old guy who started working on my own cars in the American Graffitti era, I must say I think the belt dressing of that time, tarry stuff you squeezed out of a tube, was far superior to today''s spraycan stuff. Anyway, good job, Steve, and thank you. -- Smitty
helped me work on my neighbor's yesterday- thanks a lot. i did not replace the idle pulley- there is still a slight squeal. it's either that- or i'll try the belt conditioner.
Awesome video - Thanks for putting all the important specs starting with Engine size 3.8L, year, generation, part #'s even rental tools up front and in the title. One tip I learned from and AC shop. After changing the belt if you hear a squeak and wonder is it BELT or BEARING - sprinkle baby powder on belt while motor running. Squeak goes away - it is the belt, squeak continues then it's a bearing.
this video was very helpful. at 80 years old, I was thinking somebody else can do this. but this video restored some old mechanic in me. I think I can do this. thanks for the teaching
Appreciate it man, i mainly needed to know i had the right tools 😂 my belt keeps slipping off a day after i went through heavy rain (without slash guard, bought it like that🤬) it did it 4 times and the engine has 235k but runs fine and starts fine and the belt only has 5k miles on it as i just replaced it along with AC pulley,plugs,oil and filter so it has to be those! I maintain a 03 Chrysler t&c LX
I been looking for videos for about an hour now and I came across yours and this video was the only 1 that gave me information I need so thank you very much
Warning. Once you have the bolt removed and the tensioner is stuck to the engine block, put the bolt back in. If the pulley bearing is bad, replace the pulley. The guide pin will snap off inside the block if you try and pry the tensioner off of the block. It just happened to me today. Use a ratchet only to loosen the idler pulley. After it is loose, switch to a ratcheting wrench. Now, I need to drill a hole where it mates to the block and fasten a screw so it will not rotate. If you live in a high corrosion area, be very careful. Think about what can go wrong.
I didn't have access to the special tool to release tension on the tensioner arm, but I was able to improvise using a small bottle jack and dowel, which worked so beautifully, I'm wondering why they even bothered to make a special tool.
You can definitely do the job without the tool, as long as you are able to relieve tension on the belt, it just makes life easier and most parts stores rent the tool at no cost which makes it convenient if your picking up the parts at the store to just grab the tool at the same time, hell they are under $20 to buy around here and probably cheaper online. Anyways hope the video helped and thanks for watching and commenting!
Did either of the pully's make a high pitch whine when the van was running? I have a feeling that my issue is either these pully's or the alt bearing. Thanks
Every thing I buy is a pain in the ass to fix smh Im a woman and do a lot of work on my vehicles myself cause honestly most mechanics will screw u if they can ur video did help me now I don’t want to mess with it lols
Engines need air, fuel, spark and compression to run, if your engine is not running it is missing one of those things. First check for spark, you can do this by getting an inline spark checker tool from the parts store for like $10 - $15 it goes between the plug wire and spark plug and flashes as you crank the engine if you have spark. If you have spark, check for fuel. I myself would disconnect the air intake from the throttle body on the intake, hold the butterfly open and spray some starting fluid, or simply some gas from an empty water bottle with small hole punched in the cover, don't need much, and try cranking, if it starts and dies, then you can look into the fuel pump as an issue. Also these vans as strange as it sounds has a shut down feature that will prevent starting / running if the engine oil pressure is too low from lack of oil, so make sure you oil is topped off. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Hey guy on the video, I went to O'REILLY'S got the surpintine belt tool,,,,,(on the video there is a puff of white smoke I saw it too when I did it). What I want to know did the inside sticker in the box of the tool get unexplained grease on yours like me?
You can pick them up in bags at Napa, O'Reillys, Advance Auto, you can see the bag I have of them I bought from Sanel auto parts at like 1:50ish in the video. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have a 2001 caravan sport 3.3 that the motor mount bolts broke off I guess I have to take all them pulies off to remove that part .and install a new motor mount.the mount is still good but sense I'm going through all this trouble might as well change it and them pulies.
I've changed the mounts before, I remember with the rear one I ended up removing the wiper cowl and using a few extensions and then a ratcheting wrench from underneath to get all the bolts out. At least with the wiper cowl off you are able to literally look down at the rear mount and that cowl is quick to remove.
You don't have to, but you'll likely be replacing the pulley and tensioner soon though. Usually if the belt is warn, the spring in the tensioner and bearings in the idler pulley are also worn. I ended up having to replace the pulley and tensioner shortly after changing the belt and I wish I had done it all at the same time. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Not a bad job at all. As per the Factory Service Manual….do not apply any type of conditioner or dressings to the accessory belt. Torque Specs 28nm DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. DO NOT LET TENSIONER SPRING BACK. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE TENSIONER Remove Neg Battery Terminal from Battery 1st step of job Wear PPE After completion, observe the belt with engine running for improper alignment or anything abnormal. LUV ME SUM 4th Gen
Dude, why is it every video I watch, every vehicle has a different set up or routing or placement on supposedly the same year? I have an 08 town and country and the orientation of the tensioner is straight up and down for 1; 2, the routing is completely different. The only thing that's the same is the space between the crossmember frame and the belt routing. Lol but good video none the less
Well done - great step-by step description of what it takes to get the job done. Also very helpful to have the "tools you need" introduction at the beginning.
This is definitely the best video I've seen for changing the serpentine belt on a Gen 4 Town & Country specifically 2005. Thanks for the video.
Got on highway my 2005 town and country 3.8 with 19k miles made a noise then steering tightened up and temperature hand rose up belt had snapped thanks for your knowledge
401k miles on my 3.3 chrysler vovager here in Cali....this thing has the orig. engine and trans. Your vids are inspiring me to fix a few things before i have some real probs!
Well done - great step-by step description of what it takes to get the job done. Also very helpful to have the "tools you need" introduction at the beginning.
I find it easier to know what to have on hand before starting the job, thanks for watching and commenting!
Although I am an experienced home mechanic with some Military experience as well I find your video informative, straight forward and helpful. I maintain an 07 Town and Country for a friend and found your video to be a great pre work informational. Superb work 👍👏👏
Thank you for your service! I appreciate the kind words, I try and keep my repair vids easy to follow and straight to the point. Thank you for you for watching and commenting as well.
Your's is the best instructional video on this fix. Thanks
Thank you for your kind words!
Thanks for this video. Curious if you have experience in fixing the rear hatch. Mine will not automatically raise or lower using the remote or inside front panel switch. I can hear the motor and it unlocks so I can raise it manually and locks when I close it but no automatic operation.
I've done a side door wiring repair but am lost when it comes to how the rear hatch operates.
Sorry to post publicly but couldn't see how to PM you.
Thanks for any feedback
Thanx Bruh
This has been very informative. I am a truck driver and my girlfriend has a 2003 t&c. Her tensioner pulley is completely screwed and the only person she knows that can fix I keeps flaking out so I told her when I roll back through I'll fix it for her and this has been a lot of help. I'll give you an update on how I did and if I scored any brownie points when I get it done lol. Awesome video man
Much appreciated, keep me posted!
Best "how to" for gen 4 Chrysler minivans serpentine belt, belt tensioner and idler pulley replacement. Thanks
Bro, You're the man!! You made it look easy cause you walked us through all the unknowns, so no surprises. Thank you 😊
Glad I could help!
Because of your ease of explanation I am going to do my 04 T & C, thank you.
I hope it goes smoothly, thank you for watching and commenting!
Thanks so much for making this video. Tomorrow morning we are traveling out to West Virginia from here in York Pennsylvania to help a friend with her 2004 Chrysler Town and Country and it is great to know what tools I will need and also the info on it being a good idea to change the idler and tensioner along with the belt.
I hope the video helped, thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice video. I like the fact that you let us know what size tools to use. Saves me from going back to the box every time! I'm doing this job, plus replacing my noisy alternator. Thanks!
Nicely done. I am doing this very job on a 2002 Town & Country. Your video was what I was looking for.
I hope it helps, thank you for watching and commenting!
Excellent video! I liked the way you described the tools needed and the routing of the belts. The torque for the belt tensioner pulley bolt is 20 foot pounds and the belt idler sprocket bolt is 24 foot pounds. Thanks for sharing
Have to do this soon; yours is the best vid. Two observations: First, while the belt is off, i will rotate the alternator and other devices I can spin with my fingers to check for undue resistance or bearing roughness, and if i can get a drop or two of oil on the exposed lip of ahy of the shaft seals, so much the better. Second, as an old guy who started working on my own cars in the American Graffitti era, I must say I think the belt dressing of that time, tarry stuff you squeezed out of a tube, was far superior to today''s spraycan stuff. Anyway, good job, Steve, and thank you. -- Smitty
thanks for watching and commenting!
Exactly what I was looking for - for my 2002 T&C. Thank you.
good teacher; great job.
Thanks!
helped me work on my neighbor's yesterday- thanks a lot. i did not replace the idle pulley- there is still a slight squeal. it's either that- or i'll try the belt conditioner.
Awesome video - Thanks for putting all the important specs starting with Engine size 3.8L, year, generation, part #'s even rental tools up front and in the title. One tip I learned from and AC shop. After changing the belt if you hear a squeak and wonder is it BELT or BEARING - sprinkle baby powder on belt while motor running. Squeak goes away - it is the belt, squeak continues then it's a bearing.
GREAT VIDEO, I WAS GONNA PAY TO HAVE IT DONE. BUT NOW I THINK ILL JUST DO IT MYSELF, THANKS AGAIN. TACO MAROCCO
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Good explaining or communication skills, a little a little fast to suit me but he made many useful points that more than. Made up for that. Thank you.
Great video - so nice to see it done before doing it. That way we know what we’re up against. Utah
I hope it helps when the time comes, thanks for watching and commenting!
this video was very helpful. at 80 years old, I was thinking somebody else can do this. but this video restored some old mechanic in me. I think I can do this. thanks for the teaching
Good video. Didn't know about the belt Conditioner Spray. Thanks!
Thanks for a complete and concise, no fluff video.
Great job bro very helpful my belt just busted so time to get the job done ✅
Appreciate it man, i mainly needed to know i had the right tools 😂 my belt keeps slipping off a day after i went through heavy rain (without slash guard, bought it like that🤬) it did it 4 times and the engine has 235k but runs fine and starts fine and the belt only has 5k miles on it as i just replaced it along with AC pulley,plugs,oil and filter so it has to be those! I maintain a 03 Chrysler t&c LX
I been looking for videos for about an hour now and I came across yours and this video was the only 1 that gave me information I need so thank you very much
Thank you your video made the prep easy. Thanks again.
Glad it helped!
Awesome, very practical and detail. Will get on it and tackle that job, Thanks.
Very helpful, I really liked that you provided part numbers. Thank you very much!!!
thank you for this video i am doing this for a friend this weekend.
Your welcome, I hope it helped out, thanks for watching and commenting!
Still helpful even today 🙂🧑🔧
Excellent and simple, Thankfully
Very helpful video!
Thanks for your time and effort to post this for us!! I’m just ready to begin that project on our 2005 T&C.
Wow amazing job buddy, thanks a lot
Now I can replace them in my minivan
Just what I needed. Thanks
Warning. Once you have the bolt removed and the tensioner is stuck to the engine block, put the bolt back in. If the pulley bearing is bad, replace the pulley. The guide pin will snap off inside the block if you try and pry the tensioner off of the block. It just happened to me today. Use a ratchet only to loosen the idler pulley. After it is loose, switch to a ratcheting wrench. Now, I need to drill a hole where it mates to the block and fasten a screw so it will not rotate. If you live in a high corrosion area, be very careful. Think about what can go wrong.
Good job and nice shots with camera.
Excellent video!
This is great exactly what I needed to know thank you sir
Happy to hear it helped, thanks for watching and commenting!
Awesome, your video totally helped me out brotha.
Glad to hear it, thanks for watching and commenting!
Great demonstration thanks!
Great video. Thanks!
Thank you sir. Very helpful.
Gracias men ,me sirvió de mucho tu vídeo de muestra!!
Thanks man.
I have a 2005 3.3.
Great video !!! Very helpful thanks
great video and pointers. thank you
I didn't have access to the special tool to release tension on the tensioner arm, but I was able to improvise using a small bottle jack and dowel, which worked so beautifully, I'm wondering why they even bothered to make a special tool.
You can definitely do the job without the tool, as long as you are able to relieve tension on the belt, it just makes life easier and most parts stores rent the tool at no cost which makes it convenient if your picking up the parts at the store to just grab the tool at the same time, hell they are under $20 to buy around here and probably cheaper online. Anyways hope the video helped and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks Bro! Good Job!
Thanks for the video
Fantastic! Thank you.
Good Jobs man God bless you
I hope you found the video helpful, thank you for watching and commenting!
Great job bro
Very informative! Thanks
Ty good sir your the best
A huge help thanks
Glad to hear it helped, thanks for watching and commenting!
Did either of the pully's make a high pitch whine when the van was running? I have a feeling that my issue is either these pully's or the alt bearing. Thanks
My alt bearing made a different noice than a high squeal, most likely your idle pulley or tensioner is squealing. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You may want to research the retrofit kit. It’s a slightly smaller belt and different size pulley
Thank you very much. I think I can do it but will have to buy some wrenches.
I hope the video helps, let me know how it goes, thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks helped alot
excellent thank you
good job thanks for the video
Thanks for watching and commenting! Hope it helped!
Nice video
Great job good video. Understood, very well. How do you send it?😊😊😊
Hi Steve, how long should the whole job take from start to finish for an amateur?
Shouldn't be more than an hour or so
Thank you!
What tool do you use to remove everything, could you tell me please, to be able to buy it.
Every thing I buy is a pain in the ass to fix smh Im a woman and do a lot of work on my vehicles myself cause honestly most mechanics will screw u if they can ur video did help me now I don’t want to mess with it lols
That was a good one,
I have a 1997 Chrysler Grand Voyager with a 3.3 litre engine. Is this similar application?
The procedure should be similar yes.
@@E4EonEbay thanks. I will watch the video. To get to the nut, you have to jack up the car.
Why did you replace the tensioner if it's working?
So I managed to change it and my alternator as well , and my car still doesn’t start . Do you have any suggestions?
Engines need air, fuel, spark and compression to run, if your engine is not running it is missing one of those things. First check for spark, you can do this by getting an inline spark checker tool from the parts store for like $10 - $15 it goes between the plug wire and spark plug and flashes as you crank the engine if you have spark. If you have spark, check for fuel. I myself would disconnect the air intake from the throttle body on the intake, hold the butterfly open and spray some starting fluid, or simply some gas from an empty water bottle with small hole punched in the cover, don't need much, and try cranking, if it starts and dies, then you can look into the fuel pump as an issue. Also these vans as strange as it sounds has a shut down feature that will prevent starting / running if the engine oil pressure is too low from lack of oil, so make sure you oil is topped off. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Why dose auto zone keep giving me belt 6pk1940 is that the wrong belt for 2005 Chrysler Pacifica 3.8 v6
Hey guy on the video, I went to O'REILLY'S got the surpintine belt tool,,,,,(on the video there is a puff of white smoke I saw it too when I did it). What I want to know did the inside sticker in the box of the tool get unexplained grease on yours like me?
It is very possible, thank you for watching and commenting!
Thanks
Anti Seize on all fasteners
How do you take off pulley in back bottom
good video. but dude you need to change your oil looking at the dirt on that oil filter...subscribed to your you tube.
Where did you get the plastic clips from ? And do you know the part number ? Thanks
You can pick them up in bags at Napa, O'Reillys, Advance Auto, you can see the bag I have of them I bought from Sanel auto parts at like 1:50ish in the video. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have a 2001 caravan sport 3.3 that the motor mount bolts broke off I guess I have to take all them pulies off to remove that part .and install a new motor mount.the mount is still good but sense I'm going through all this trouble might as well change it and them pulies.
I've changed the mounts before, I remember with the rear one I ended up removing the wiper cowl and using a few extensions and then a ratcheting wrench from underneath to get all the bolts out. At least with the wiper cowl off you are able to literally look down at the rear mount and that cowl is quick to remove.
Steve it's the other half of the motor mount.thats behind the pulley it might be a junk yard part it's mounted to the engine
@@billrice8159 hopefully they have one, a lot of these around my way have been crushed up and are getting harder to find at the pick n pulls
Do I really have to replace the pulley, and tensioner? I only got the new belt. Old one busted off.
You don't have to, but you'll likely be replacing the pulley and tensioner soon though. Usually if the belt is warn, the spring in the tensioner and bearings in the idler pulley are also worn. I ended up having to replace the pulley and tensioner shortly after changing the belt and I wish I had done it all at the same time. Thanks for watching and commenting!
👍👍👍👍
Throw the belt conditioner in the trash
Not a bad job at all.
As per the Factory Service Manual….do not apply any type of conditioner or dressings to the accessory belt.
Torque Specs 28nm DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. DO NOT LET TENSIONER SPRING BACK. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE TENSIONER
Remove Neg Battery Terminal from Battery 1st step of job
Wear PPE
After completion, observe the belt with engine running for improper alignment or anything abnormal.
LUV ME SUM 4th Gen
👏👍
Dude, why is it every video I watch, every vehicle has a different set up or routing or placement on supposedly the same year? I have an 08 town and country and the orientation of the tensioner is straight up and down for 1; 2, the routing is completely different. The only thing that's the same is the space between the crossmember frame and the belt routing. Lol but good video none the less
Please i need all the belt details width ....etc
Well done - great step-by step description of what it takes to get the job done. Also very helpful to have the "tools you need" introduction at the beginning.
I noticed its helpful to start with the list of tool so you what to have on hand, thanks for watching and commenting!
Huge help thank you
Thank YOU!!
Thanks, great video.